Christmas in November: The Welcome

I’ve been eyeing Christmas in November for the last few years, but because of the steep cost, I knew we’d have to save for it like any other vacation. And given just returned from our honeymoon in October, this year was a write-off. Enter Gastropost, who, through Postmedia (I am a part of the Gastropost Advisory Board), granted Mack and I the opportunity to attend as their guests, in exchange for documenting the weekend. We jumped at the opportunity, and away we went to the final package November 14-16, 2014. Although Mack and I have been to the mountains together before, this was our first trip to Jasper. We were looking forward to the fresh air, wildlife, and of course,  Christmas in November itself!

Christmas in November

Jasper

The moment we rolled into the Jasper Park Lodge, we felt immediately welcomed. All of the staff were eager to help and made sure we were well taken care of. We were eventually directed into our room – although I had expected a facility similar to the chateau-like Fairmont Banff Springs, I quickly realized this Fairmont property was made up of a sprawling complex of cozy cabins. Luckily, our cabin was located a stone’s throw away from the main lodge.

Christmas in November

Our cabin

We joined Brittney Le Blanc, Alberta Gastropost manager, and the rest of the “VIPs” in a pre-reception, and had a chance to meet some of the other attendees and presenters. It was nice to see some Edmonton representation (curiously, in Jasper, both Edmonton and Calgary talent were referred to as “local” presenters, I suppose to differentiate from the chefs visiting from other parts of Canada). It seems the majority of attendees were from Edmonton, though a smaller percentage make the trek from Calgary and the rest of the province.

Christmas in November

With Jacqueline Jacek

Upstairs at the welcome reception, the line-up of presenters were then introduced. It was clear that this was the kind of conference where rubbing elbows with these celebrity chefs was not only permitted, but encouraged.

Anna & Michael Olson

Anna and Michael Olson had fun with the camera

Surveying the attendee demographic, we were surprised with the range. We had been told to expect a large number of mature attendees, and mostly women. And although that was true for the majority, Brittney confirmed that this was the most diverse group she’d seen yet, in terms of age and gender.

Christmas in November

Mack (in front of an edible gingerbread house) wasn’t as outnumbered as he thought

After the brief program, we had access to unlimited food and drink. This included a few signature cocktails, such as the strawberry shortcake martini and a peppermint eggnog.

The Fairmont kitchen had prepared an amazing array of tastes, served at stations around the ballroom.

Christmas in November

Reception

We had fun sampling more than a dozen dishes, with Brittney providing us with helpful recommendations (it was her third buffet, as she had been there for the previous two packages). She pointed us to the poutine bar(!), which featured butter chicken sauce and braised short ribs. The flavour and heat level in the butter chicken gravy was particularly tasty, but it could have been warmer.

Christmas in November

Poutine

That was perhaps our one criticism of the buffet – most of the dishes just weren’t served at the ideal temperature, or, in some cases, had languished under heat lamps. There were a few exceptions to this, which elicited several return trips. The raclette – melty Oka cheese – was simple but decadent.

Christmas in November

Raclette

My favorite dish of the night was the mushroom risotto, made fresh throughout the evening, and served in a carved out parmesan wheel.

Christmas in November

Why yes, I’ll have seconds

Desserts were also a part of the evening, even though we were already more than full. The mincemeat pies were delicious, while Mack enjoyed his pumpkin and blueberry tart.

Christmas in November

Pumpkin and blueberry tarts

We weren’t ones to close out the reception, as we knew we’d have an early start the next morning. We were looking forward to what the presenters had to offer!

Food Notes for December 8, 2014

  • The big news this week was Events Edmonton’s announcement that they are hosting the Canadian Food Championships in conjunction with Taste of Edmonton next July: “This exciting opportunity will allow Canadian chefs, home cooks and foodies of all backgrounds to compete for cash, glory, and an all-expenses-paid (flights, accommodation and entry fees) Golden Ticket to compete in the 4th Annual World Food Championships, which will be held in Florida in November of 2015.” I’m not familiar with the WFC, but I’m interested in seeing how this event shapes up.
  • Lots of pop-ups coming your way this weekend, starting with Honest Dumplings, who will be taking over Drift’s new storefront on December 12, 2014, from 5:30-9:30pm.
  • Big City Sandwich’s Big City Burger Fest is taking place on December 13, 2014, from 5-8pm at the Nor’Wester Rugby Club.
  • Long Lost Foods is hosting their holiday pop-up on December 14, 2014 at the Mercury Room. They have two seatings, 4pm and 7pm, with tickets priced at $35.
  • Twyla reviewed Ampersand 27 last week.
  • Linda shares her take on North 53’s new menu.
  • Cheryl attended a unique food event at Baseline Wines, which paired wines with cookies!
  • Karlynn and Phil’s second podcast, all about their #yegfood Christmas lists, is now up.
  • Avenue Edmonton talks about the new restaurant movement towards a “no reservation” policy.
  • Mack and I had dinner with some friends at Woodwork on Friday, just on the heels of their first anniversary – congrats!

Woodwork

Steak frites from Woodwork

Another Chinatown Transformation: Lee House

It has been a few years since my last visit to Lee House in Old Strathcona, but for a recent Korean food fix, I was excited to visit their second location in Chinatown. They took over a storefront on 97 Street that has been vacant for many years, a building that I remember from my childhood (it had the distinction of being the only grocery store in the area that offered underground parking). Earlier this year, 97 Hot Pot also similarly transformed a derelict, hollow shell into a bright spot in the neighbourhood, and I’m hoping Lee House is continuing the trend.

The Lee House owners did a great job with the interior, with the wood finishes anchoring the room with a warmth and familiarity not unlike a comfortable kitchen. Tables are inset with a natural gas burner, which spoke to the communality of much of the menu.

Lee House

Interior

Having just been in Korea for our honeymoon, it was great to see some familiar items on the menu, spanning from barbecue to broth-based bowls and a plethora of small plates. Still, Maria and I let Roxanne (who had lived in Korea for a time) lead us through our choices. We ended up with the sweet ginger dubboki ($9.95), similar to one of my favourite dishes in Seoul, and the pork bone soup ($33.95), which seemed ideal on that chilly winter evening.

The dubboki, made up of rice cakes, fish cakes, cabbage and green onions in a ginger-soy sauce, was pleasantly sweet, though the rice cakes themselves were much firmer than their Seoul cousins.

Lee House

Dubboki

The pork bone soup felt like the main event when it arrived, complete with accompaniments. Over the course of a few minutes, simmering in front of us, the broth took on a piercing red tone, cooking down the vegetables layered in amongst the meat. But the chilli-based soup was beautifully balanced, with just enough heat to warm us through.

Lee House

Pork bone soup

It was the kind of meal you linger over, taking your time over the dredges of soup left in the pot. And unlike some other places in Chinatown, we never felt rushed; the friendly servers were more than happy to refill our tea, and gave us the time and space to catch up. It was a satisfying supper, and shared between the three of us, amounted to just over $20 per person with tip. Our only feedback for the restaurant was to consider offering dessert, as we would have been more than happy to indulge in something sweet.

On a random Tuesday night, we were happy to see that many other people had already discovered Lee House (though it should be noted their south side location is currently under renovations). And given there are many more menu items I was tempted by, I’m sure to be back soon.

Lee House
10708 97 Street
(780) 438-0790
Monday-Saturday 11am-10pm

Food Notes for December 1, 2014

  • Get into the winter spirit – the Winter Excitement Guide has some great suggestions, including Frostival in McCauley taking place each weekend in December. Chestnuts roasting on an open fire, anyone?
  • Save the date: Honest Dumplings is hosting their first pop-up on December 12, 2014 in Drift’s new space on 124 Street!
  • Mark your calendar for a new food festival this coming MarchNorthern Lands is bringing Chefs Vikram Vij and Dale MacKay to join some of Edmonton’s best chefs to showcase local food along with Canadian wines, beers and spirits.
  • Thanks to Amelia, I found out that there’s a new French bakery in town: Passion de France (11812 86 Street) on Alberta Avenue. You can also find them on Twitter. I look forward to checking them out soon!
  • Central Social Hall has revamped their menu (and is opening a second location in St. Albert).
  • Karlynn and Phil now have a podcast – check out the first episode of Where I Ate Wednesday, all about their favourite Christmas in November eats.
  • Congrats to the team behind The Yards, a quarterly publication launched by the Downtown and Oliver Community Leagues. Check out their inaugural issue, including a page on downtown’s cheapest eats.
  • Looking for a gift who will satisfy the kitchen-inclined? Some Edmonton chefs share their gadget recommendations.
  • The year-end celebration for one of the volunteer committees I belong to was held at Zinc last week, and Mack was able to come along as well. He enjoyed the crab cakes, but it was the pea risotto that won raves around the table. The sweet and spicy prawns were perfectly cooked, but they were a bit unbalanced and heavy on the heat.

Zinc

Atlantic Blue crab cakes

Zinc

Sweet & spicy baked prawns with green pea risotto

  • Mack and I headed to RGE RD for dinner on Friday – their dining room was a cozy respite from the cold! I loved the sablefish, served with a delectable mushroom broth.

RGE Rd

Sablefish

“Pucker” Cookbook Launch

If you’ve got someone who loves to cook on your Christmas list, you’re in luck – we’re awash in locally-produced cookbooks this season! The Duchess Cookbook would be perfect for the baker in your family (they’ve already ordered a second printing), while the Alberta Famers’ Market Association’s 20th anniversary cookbook, From the Farm, is filled with locally-sourced inspiration from chefs around the province. Now we have Pucker, from Calgary-based Gwendolyn Richards, a celebration of citrus in all its tangy glory.

Pucker Cookbook Launch

Pucker

Mack and I first met Gwendolyn a few years ago on a Tourism Calgary showcase, but caught up with her more recently in Jasper at Christmas in November. We knew she would be heading up to Edmonton soon after to launch her new book, and we knew we wanted to be a part of the welcoming committee! The launch was held at the Cory Christopher Christmas Market, a festive space ideal for mingling over drinks and nibbles.

Pucker launch

Mixing up whisky sours for the crowd

Gwendolyn is the food writer for the Calgary Herald, but you may also know her from her blog that chronicles her food exploits, Patent & the Pantry. Pucker is her manifestation of “do what you love”, as the kitchen has always been her refuge (and photography, too – Gwendolyn styled and shot all of the photos herself!).

Pucker Cookbook Launch

With her labour of love

The book is filled with nearly ninety recipes – sweet and savoury – and a sizable section of citrus-infused cocktails (the section Mack is particularly excited about). Although Gwendolyn was hard-pressed to select a favourite recipe, the banh mi burger, a play on the Vietnamese sandwich, has achieved an almost legendary status in her circle of friends.

We had the chance to sample a few of the items featured in the book, including some delicious citrus-braised pork shoulder tacos (we may or may not have had seconds).

Pucker Cookbook Launch

Citrus-braised pork shoulder tacos

The lime bars were my favourite dessert, as they packed a citrus punch.

Pucker Cookbook Launch

Lillian and I loved the lime bars

Thanks to Gwendolyn and her team for inviting us to the launch, and congratulations on the book!

You can find Pucker online or in Chapters locations.

Recap: All is Bright on 124 Street

Mack and I took in the second annual All is Bright Festival on 124 Street last Saturday. With a gentle, glistening snowfall heralding winter, the event was christened with a beautifully ethereal quality.

All is Bright on 124 Street

High Street

Sure, it was a little chilly, but organizers were prepared, with warming fires clustered around the High Street shops. There were even a handful of outdoor vendors, sheltered by custom-built WinterCity huts (these could be the start of a more permanent winter market!).

All is Bright on 124 Street

Huts

There was also a covered tent that doubled as a stage, though some performers braved the elements on the chance of gathering an even larger crowd.

All is Bright on 124 Street

Ta-da!

Food trucks were on hand also, though their numbers were fewer than last year. Street Eats is fully winterized, so it’s possible you may see them again this season! We were a little disappointed that with all of the foot traffic, event organizers elected not to close any adjacent streets. With the 102 Avenue bridge construction, we thought it would have been natural to close the avenue to vehicles for a more family-friendly set-up as was the case last year.

All is Bright on 124 Street

Street Eats

Of course, one of the best things about this festival is its close proximity to great independent shops, so we definitely took advantage of the opportunity to not only warm our toes but also a head start on Christmas shopping.

Carbon on 124 Street

Carbon

The festival footprint extended north of 107 Avenue, with horse-drawn sleighs and ETS shuttles connecting the two ends of 124 Street. We opted to walk to Drift’s new storefront to have lunch, and were rewarded with a steaming plate of poutine and wonderfully spiced bowl of mulligatawny soup.

Drift on 124 Street

Drift’s new space

Drift on 124 Street

Poutine

Across the street, Duchess was handing out hot chocolate and freshly-fried beignets. It was also an opportunity to see their annual gingerbread cathedral still under construction (the intricate “stained glass” windows are a marvel).

Duchess Bake Shop

Giselle all bundled up!

Duchess Bake Shop

Beignets (seconds, please)

Duchess Bake Shop

Gingerbread cathedral in progress

We met up with Hannah and Stephanie in the new neighbourhood Credo, which was bustling with patrons needing a break from the cold.

Credo on 124 Street

Geoff behind the bar

By the time we were done catching up, we realized we had missed the official light-up and fireworks. But it didn’t really matter – one of the best things about All is Bright is an excuse to acquaint (or reacquaint) yourself with all of the wonderful shops and galleries in the area.

All is Bright on 124 Street

Lights!

We did hustle back to the main site just in time to marvel at the lights and closing activities. Although crowds had dwindled down, it was still a wonderful scene of Edmontonians making the most of winter.

Steph, Hannah, Sharon

With Steph and Hannah

Mack and I thought better of slogging away in the kitchen that night, and left the cooking up to The Bothy. We snagged the last free table, and though we had to be patient with the kitchen, it was well worth the wait. Both our dishes were well prepared.

The Bothy on 124 Street

Roasted lamb sausage pasta

Kudos to the All is Bright organizers for putting together a fabulous event – I’m looking forward to what’s in store for next year!

Food Notes for November 24, 2014

I can’t believe it’s just a month until Christmas! Now if only someone in my household would let me put up the Christmas tree already. On to this week’s food notes…

  • The Calgary Herald’s food writer Gwendolyn Richards published a cookbook this fall, called Pucker: A Cookbook for Citrus Lovers. She will be in Edmonton on November 27, 2014 at the Cory Christopher Christmas Market for a launch party and book signing.
  • I’m looking forward to this weekend’s Royal Bison – lots of gifts for your favourite foodie, including State Motto, which makes cocktail bitters.
  • The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald is ready for the holidays – their Nutcracker Tea & Tour is back, as are their festive meals.
  • Cindy shared her recent experience at the new Chinatown location of Lee House (9711 107 Ave).
  • Andrea and Cindy both made it to the second Prairie Noodle Shop Pop-up over the weekend.
  • Have you filled out the Earth’s General Store survey yet? They are seeking feedback on how they might be able to enhance the shopping experience at their downtown location.
  • Are you one of the increasing numbers of working men heading up the kitchen in your household?
  • Speaking of men, the Sexy Men of YEGFood calendar has been tearing up Twitter, featuring twelve of your favourite local food personalities, like you’ve never seen them before! They’re $20, with all proceeds going to the Edmonton Food Bank. Mack and I picked up our copy on the weekend at Drift, where we were lucky enough to also get it autographed by Mr. July himself – Baconhound.

Phil with Sexy Men of YEG Food Calendar

Phil’s letting it all hang out

Food Notes for November 17, 2014

I think Mack and I may have been punished for having such a great time in Jasper over the weekend – we arrived home on Sunday night to find that our fridge had stopped working. Thankfully, it can be repaired, so we’ll be back on track soon to our post-Christmas in November diet. More to come on #JasperCIN in the next few days. On to this week’s food notes:

It Dog

It Dog

Relish Food Fest

Mack checks out a copy of From the Farm at the Relish Film Festival

La Poutine

Dinner of champions

Relish Fest: Food on Film

There’s a new film festival in town, and it’s all about food! Relish Fest, the brainchild of Maria Iacobelli and The Tomato’s Mary Bailey, celebrates food in all its incarnations on the big screen. Running November 13-16, 2014 in a variety of locations in the city, the festival will be highlighting a number of local, national and international films.

Relish Film Fest

Relish Fest organizers Mary Bailey and Maria Iacobelli with To Make a Farm director Steve Suderman

Although its inaugural year features a panel discussion and a Parmigiano & Prosecco party in addition to screenings, the organizers shared that their focus in coming year will be their “dinner and a movie” series, involving a dinner themed around a specific film preceding each screening. It sounds like a great way to spend an evening.

Relish Food Fest

Relishing some wine

On Thursday night, Mack and I were fortunate enough to be guests at the opening reception. The film To Make a Farm, was screened, a beautiful homage to small family farms in Canada. Director Steve Suderman did a wonderful job capturing the difficulties of farm life – the relentless demands, the unpredictability of mother nature, the loneliness – but also the joy and the rewards that can come from working the land and contributing to the community through food. I was particularly moved by a scene where one farmer said a heartfelt goodbye to the pigs she’d reared and loved, just before sending them to slaughter.

After the movie, a moderated discussion featured an all-female panel: Rhonda Zuk-Headon from The Cheesiry, Cathryn Sprague from Reclaim Urban Farm, Jenny Berkenbosch from Sundog Organic Farm and Vicky Horne from Tangle Ridge Ranch. The panelists expressed that they could very much relate to the stories they watched on screen (Jenny called them “kindred spirits”), and in the process of bettering their techniques, have undergone similar learning journeys. When asked a question about future growth, and in particular, “How big is too big?”, the goal for most was sustainability, while always improving operations.

Relish Food Fest

The panelists with Director Suderman

I felt the panel was a bit too rushed, and would have enjoyed more time with the panelists, but I recognize that the organizers were trying to keep things on time and moving along.

Although there was a second film screening to end the evening, we weren’t able to stay. Based on our first impressions, however, I think Relish is off to a great start! Congrats to Maria and Mary on this new addition to the city’s festival scene.

Check out the rest of the film line-up and ticket information here.

To Be Refined: Ampersand 27

Ampersand 27 has only been up and running for two weeks, but you wouldn’t know it. A few friends and I met for dinner there on Saturday night, and the dining room was nearly full. Not a surprise, even with the unannounced soft opening. Since his unexpected departure from the Lazia Group, Chef Nathin Bye (the youngest-ever chef to win the Gold Medal Plates competition in Edmonton) has been working on his next venture, and the community has been anticipating good things. Even the restaurant’s name, which references the now-forgotten 27th letter of the alphabet, conjures up the idea of unfinished business, of an underdog, and as the website states, “& is memorable. It’s an evening so unforgettable, you’ll want to come back again & again & again.”

Ampersand 27

Flora at Ampersand 27

Ampersand 27 replaces the beleaguered Murrieta’s in Old Strathcona, which wasn’t able to recapture the public’s attention even after personnel changes and a menu overhaul. Part of the challenge is the size of the space itself and its awkward division into multiple rooms, especially given the trend towards smaller, more intimate restaurants. But overall, I loved the updates in the main room, which makes better use of the high ceiling. Its new sparkling light fixture, placed above two gorgeous communal wood tables, conjures up images of charming backyard al fresco dinners.

Ampersand 27

Interior

The menu, however, was disappointing. While Chef Bye probably didn’t want to alienate Murrieta’s patronage, accustomed to seafood options and a wide range, without more of a focus, Ampersand 27 risks fading into the background, indistinguishable from upscale casual chains. With four distinct sections – shareables, cheese and charcuterie, large plates and flatbreads, the menu is too broad, and fails to cement an identity. And although I appreciate the restaurant’s push towards sourcing some ingredients from area suppliers, why the extensive seafood selection couldn’t have been pared down to reflect more local options is puzzling.

We chose to share several plates, and did find gems among them. The forest floor flatbread ($15) was outstanding, with a perfectly executed dense, chewy crust, topped with earthy foraged mushrooms and a slightly tangy house-made ricotta.

Ampersand 27

Forest floor flatbread

The Southeast inspired flat iron ($16) was also wonderfully prepared, with maximum flavour coaxed from the meat, served over kimchee fried rice and an assortment of pickled accompaniments.

Ampersand 27

Southeast inspired flat iron

The pig ear pad thai ($16) elicited mixed reviews – I enjoyed the ears, rendered tender and almost indistinguishable from the rice noodles, while Annie would have preferred the distinctive crunch of cartilage. The heat level was also pleasantly punchy, unlike other versions made more palatable for the masses.

Ampersand 27

Pig ear pad thai

The pressured octopus ($14) was forgettable – both of my dinner mates thought the octopus was lost in the heavy-handed tomato sauce, and would have fared better in a lighter dressing.

Ampersand 27

Pressured octopus

The confit parsnips ($11) were surprisingly firm, and I’m convinced roasting the root vegetables would have brought out more flavour. The red pepper jam helped somewhat, but it really shouldn’t have been necessary for sweetness.

Ampersand 27

Confit parsnips

The dessert menu seemed much more post-modern than its savoury predecessor, which, although inspired by international flavours, was fairly straightforward and approachable. We had a hard time discerning what to expect of each of the dessert plates, and needed help from our server to decode the menu. Ultimately we chose rocky road ($9), when we were told there would be six “rocks” to share, easy to divide up between the three of us.

Ampersand 27

Rocky road

To be sure, the dish was unique, comprised of six coated rocks, each containing a different filling. Our favourite was the fruity mango, and we agreed the bed of graham cracker “moss and sand” was necessary for the added texture and dimension.

Service throughout the evening was professional, if not particularly warm. As with most new restaurants though, those finishes will likely take some time to develop.

Given Ampersand 27 is barely two weeks old, it is still too early to judge the restaurant’s longevity based on an initial visit. I just hope in the weeks to come, Chef Bye is able to further refine the menu and shape it into the memorable establishment he hoped to create.

Ampersand 27
10612 82 Avenue
(780) 757-2727
Lunch 11am-4pm & dinner 4pm-11pm daily, brunch 10am-2pm on weekends