Living Up to its Name: Hap’s Hungry House

Last spring, while Mack and I were taking part in Thom’s bootcamp in the west end, we would drive past Hap’s Hungry House (16060 Stony Plain Road) every Sunday. The parking lot was always packed those mornings, and had us wondering what it was like inside. We finally made time last weekend to try it out for ourselves.

Arriving at 11:30 on Sunday, nearly all of the tables were full. Thankfully, it seemed we had good timing, as not long after we sat down, a small crowd started gathering in the small lobby.

We were told the restaurant has been family owned and operated for thirty-one years, and though I can’t speak to whether or not the interior has changed in that time, I can say that it is clean and well taken care of. The décor is country-esque, with kitschy farm animals and floral art all over the walls. It actually reminded me somewhat of the cartoonish depictions Cora’s deploys, but less over the top.

Interior

If I were to describe Hap’s Hungry House with one word, it would be “efficient.” Though I know much of it has to do with the desire for a timely table turnover, the fact that we were provided with water, coffee, milk in place of cream and even a coffee thermos within two minutes of being seated was very much appreciated. It may have been rote for the servers, but they never made us feel rushed.

The menu is huge, and runs the gamut between omelettes, egg sandwiches, eggs benedicts, French toast, and hotcakes (a term for pancakes I have only ever associated with McDonald’s). And like most diners, the plates promised to be generous in size.

I ordered a large hotcake combo with pork sausage ($11.65). I’m not sure I expected individual pancakes to be the size of dinner plates, but it was a welcome challenge. They were fluffy, the batter just slightly sweet (perfect for dousing in syrup), and did remind me of those served at Hathaway’s Diner. The scrambled eggs were browned and thus overdone, but that was a minor complaint.

Large hotcake combo

Mack’s large egg-cellent order with pork sausage ($9.85) was a steal of a deal, his plate teeming with eggs, toast, home fries and meat. The home fries could have been a touch crispier for my liking, but Mack didn’t mind.

Large egg-cellent with pork sausage

I’d definitely recommend Hap’s for your brunch consideration. Just make sure you go hungry.

Hap’s Hungry House
16060 Stony Plain road
(780) 483-2288
Tuesday-Saturday 7am-3pm,Sunday 8am-3pm, closed Mondays and Holidays

Shattered Expectations: The Glass Monkey

With the number of restaurants that have joined the dining scene in Edmonton over the past six months, it sometimes feels like I’ll never catch up! And because Mack and I don’t typically gravitate towards recently-opened establishments in moments of spontaneity, I find we usually have to plan in advance to make sure we end up at a new spot. That was the case with The Glass Monkey, where Mack and I had dinner on a Saturday night in March.

Located in a Lendrum strip mall, The Glass Monkey replaced Jack’s Grill in December 2013. When it opened, its claim to fame was perhaps that Chef Darcy Radies (formerly of The Blue Pear) was involved in the menu development, which for me elevated my expectations for an innovative and creative menu, under the restaurant’s gastropub concept.

Walking in that evening, we found a fairly packed dining room. I had made a reservation a week prior on Open Table, however, so wasn’t worried. When greeted by the hostess, she first indicated that she needed to grab an “extra chair” for our table. Then, we were led to a windowless corner, seated at a table adjacent to a bar-height four-top, which made our placement even more claustrophobic. I recognize the choice of tables at that time was slim, but needless to say, we weren’t off to a good start.

Unfortunately, the menu choices didn’t remedy things. First off, wines were pricey, averaging at least $15 per glass. It was also somewhat surprising that The Glass Monkey doesn’t offer a cocktail menu. Following the lead of other cities, restaurants in Edmonton have begun to adopt quite quality cocktail programs (Woodwork is perhaps the best example). Though cocktails alone aren’t deal breakers for younger diners, given the comments from the previous owner of Jack’s Grill relating to challenges of attracting younger customers, it does seem like an oversight. The crowd definitely seemed to skew older that night, but that could have been an anomaly.

The Glass Monkey has a fairly large food menu, but it felt scattered and unfocused. It’s rare for us not to be swayed by small plates, but nothing from that section of the menu enticed us. It probably didn’t help that the chefs decided to retain a number of dishes from Jack’s Grill – it would be difficult for any restaurant to develop a new identity when beholden to its previous incarnation. We ended up ordering pub standards – burgers and pizza.

I was given a temperature choice for my sirloin beef patty. Though I requested medium rare, the burger arrived well done, no pink to be seen. Thankfully, it was still quite juicy, and the generous amount of Sylvan Star Cheese was a nice accompaniment. I should note that the fries were a delight, crispy and thicker than the shoestring style so popular these days.

Burger ($15)

Mack’s Hawaiian pizza ($17) featured a crisp crust, and nicely smoked pork. He would have preferred more pineapple, however, as it was shaved very thin.

Hawaiian pizza

Service was fine – our server was courteous and professional, and in spite of the demands of tending to many tables, managed to be present.

While the food itself was fine, overall, our experience at The Glass Monkey was disappointing. With so many other new restaurants still left to visit, I’m sure it will be some time before we consider returning again, especially since the menu didn’t leave us wanting more.

The Glass Monkey
5842 – 111 Street
(780) 760-2228

Swiss 2 Go: Hurrah for Pretzel Buns

Mack and I were in the west end running errands over the weekend when hunger pains hit. We ended up right by Swiss 2 Go (17104 90 Avenue), a sandwich shop I had heard a lot about, so took it as an opportunity to finally set foot inside.

Situated right across from West Edmonton Mall, it’s a humble storefront that would be easy to miss. Swiss 2 Go is essentially a takeout counter, with a handful of tables for those seeking to dine in.

Interior

The menu focuses on sandwiches, though soups, salads and homemade desserts are also available. The current menu has fifteen different sandwich varieties to choose from, all an upgrade from those typically found at a deli. Their Italian Bride, with prosciutto, roasted red pepper, sun dried tomatoes, bocconcini and basil was even recognized by Avenue Magazine as one of the Best Things to Eat in 2013.

It was clear that owner Drita Keller cares deeply about the ingredients used in her creations. She shared with us that she continues to import cheeses and meats from Europe because of their consistency and quality, and it was evident that the vegetables used were crisp and fresh.

The sandwiches were made fresh to order, and when they arrived, I wasn’t sure how I’d be able to pack it down to take a bite! My Thanksgiving ($7.99/regular) sandwich, with smoked turkey, brie, romaine and red pepper was loaded with texture, the mild and creamy cheese letting the turkey take the wheel. Mack similarly enjoyed his Matterhorn ($7.99/regular), containing banana peppers, avocado, cilantro and alpine style dried beef.

Matterhorn and Thanksgiving sandwiches

While the combination of ingredients was unique, what set the sandwich apart was the house-made pretzel bun, studded with kosher salt. Given we haven’t yet found a local supplier who offers pretzel buns similar to those found at Calgary’s Rustic Sourdough Bakery, this might be the closest we’ve ever come. During the week, Drita said they run through so much bread that they may be baking up to ten times a day!

If you’re in the area, make it a point to stop by Swiss 2 Go. You won’t be disappointed.

Swiss 2 Go
17104 90 Avenue
(587) 520-9400
Monday 11am-3pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11am-9pm, Sunday 11am-5pm

97 Hot Pot: To Chinatown We Go!

Growing up, hot pot was very much a family affair. It was a way, with comparatively less effort than cooking, for my Mum to gather us all around the dining table. Sure, she’d have to source ingredients in Chinatown (fresh vegetables, meats, tofu), then prep them for consumption, but it was definitely one of her go-to meals on nights she didn’t feel like spending too much time in the kitchen.

For a brief period of time in high school, hot pot restaurants were the birthday venue of choice, given they could easily accommodate large groups (and given the appetite of some of those teenage boys, the buffet-style offerings were ideal).

Since that time, hot pot has been something I’ve enjoyed exclusively at my parents’ house. As a result, it’s been easily over ten years since I’ve stepped foot inside a hot pot restaurant in Edmonton.

Cue the local hot pot revolution, with two new restaurants opening up in Chinatown within six months of each other, located less than a block apart. And not only are they reinvigorating the hot pot scene in the city, but they are also injecting new life into the area.

Both Urban Shabu and 97 Hot Pot have brought the trend of individual hot pots to Edmonton. I have to say, when I first heard of this set-up, I really balked at the idea of reducing a communal experience to an individual one. What I didn’t take into account at the time, however, was that the seduction of convenience and control would win me over, too.

97 Hot Pot moved into a storefront in Chinatown that had been vacant for years. The owners overhauled the space with eye-catching signage and a brand new interior. It’s bright, clean and welcoming, and if this trend continues with other businesses, will hopefully help chip away at the stereotypes that continues to plague the neighbourhood as a whole. In addition, it was refreshing to see the number of younger patrons dining in that night – based on my own high school experience, it’s not surprising, but it does give me hope for Chinatown’s immediate future. Last month, I had dinner at 97 Hot Pot with Maria and Roxanne, and learned firsthand what all the fuss was about.

Interior

All of the tables had built-in induction burners meant to accommodate individual pots. As a result, instead of the circular tables to accommodate larger parties at communal hot pot restaurants, all tables were rectangular. Although we still ended up sharing everything, it was a nice change not to have to reach for the pot, or to argue over who put in that last tofu or meatball. Individual hot pots will do much to smooth over family conflicts at the dinner table, heh.

My personal hot pot!

97 Hot Pot charges $25.95 per adult, and $12.95 per child aged 3-9. Choosing a soup base other than the basic chicken broth adds $2 to that cost, as does opting for the choice of two broths in a divided pot. In addition to the selection of about one hundred different raw and fresh meat and vegetable items, salads, cooked dishes and desserts are also included in the per person cost, making this one of the most value-laden buffets in the city. It also differentiates the dining out version of hot pot from its home-based cousin; it isn’t economical for a family to purchase the kind of variety that can be found at a restaurant, and when a group of picky eaters is present, the range of options should satisfy everyone. Our only minor quibble with the ordering system was that it wasn’t logical – specifying “1” vs. “2” or “4” would yield seemingly random amounts of food.

Given the breadth of choices, I was happy to see that 97 Hot Pot didn’t sacrifice quality for quantity. The greens were crisp, and the sliced meats were fresh. I easily consumed a half pound of sliced lamb that night.

Spread part one (I forgot to take pictures later on, unfortunately)

97 Hot Pot introduced me to the oddly translated “fresh meat and seafood mash” – blended meat and herb mixtures served up in plastic sleeves. Using a plastic spoon, the meat is meant to be dropped into the boiling soup to create meatballs. They were darn tasty, and like the cooked dishes, really added value to the meal.

Meat and seafood mashes

We spent the better part of two and a half hours at 97 Hot Pot. Although the menu indicated that only two hour stays were permitted, we never felt that the service staff were trying to push us out. Refills on soup and water were timely, and orders were taken and delivered in a punctual fashion. Dessert was a bonus, and the sweet soup (tong sui) was notably well-prepared.

Maria and I amongst the steam (from now on, I will be making more frequent visits to hot pot facilities during the cold weather months – the chicken soup sauna was like a gift for my winter-disparaged skin)

I had a great experience at 97 Hot Pot, and would not hesitate in recommending it to those new and familiar with this type of dining. I really am hopeful the additional traffic to Chinatown from both new hot pot ventures will turn the tide in the area, and spur even more development in the neighbourhood.

97 Hot Pot
10602 97 Street
(587) 521-1888
Sunday-Thursday 4:30pm-midnight, Friday-Saturday, 4:30pm-2am

Calgary Mini-Break: All That’s Fit to Eat

Too often I put off my travel posts, which usually results in the good eats never being shared. Hopefully I’m reversing the trend now!

Last weekend, Mack and I headed down to Calgary for a much-needed break. Though the weather we encountered was more winter than spring, it was still nice to step away from our usual routine for a few days. While a dead car battery threw a wrench in some of our plans, we still managed to hit up more than a few places.

Coffee and Snacks

We’re always a little jealous of Calgary’s coffee scene – notably of Phil & Sebastian’s. It’s wonderful to find them all over the city – from mature neighbourhoods (Mission) to farmers’ markets (Symons Valley) to shopping centres (Chinook Mall), we’re never far from great coffee. We’re fortunate that District Coffee Co. in Edmonton now carries their beans, so it means we don’t have travel as far to pick up a bag!

Pick-me-up from Phil & Sebastian’s

Analog Café by Fratello Coffee Roasters is one of our new favourites that opened last fall. It’s become a welcome haven on 17th Avenue after a day of shopping.

Afternoon coffee at Analog

As well, Analog carries pastries by Sidewalk Citizen Bakery, the darling of the baked goods scene in Calgary. We made the effort to check out the bakery’s main location, just off MacLeod surrounded by light industrial buildings. It was worth it for their flaky, buttery cheese sticks alone.

Pastry case at Sidewalk Citizen Bakery

We also usually end up visiting at least one farmers’ market while in town, and this occasion was no different. Crossroads Market renovated a portion of their building to accommodate more food vendors – hopefully in the summer the stalls will be filled with more produce vendors, as I find the import-happy Chongo’s is a poor substitute. At any rate, we decided to share an order of poutine from Rocky’s Burger Bus, parked outside of the market, for lunch (one of the items that made Julie van Rosendaal’s 2014 list of 25 Best things to Eat).

Rocky’s Burger Bus

It was comforting to see the container of russets on the windowsill of the bus, and as expected, the fries tasted fresh and remained crispy in spite of its gravy bath. We did find the gravy to be on the salty side, but it was still pretty tasty.

Poutine from Rocky’s Burger Bus

Bensonhurst Pizza

Open for about a month, Bensonhurst Pizza joins an already crowded club of Calgary pizza joints. However, Bensonhurst distinguishes itself by not specializing on one type of pie, but offering a variety of styles, including Neopolitan, Sicilian, Californian, New York and Chicago. Bensonhurst is named after one of the neighbourhood’s in Brooklyn’s Little Italy, so the menu is rounded out by other American-Italian favourites – meatballs, lasagnas and the like.

We were advised that a 9-inch Chicago-style pizza ($18) would be enough for two, and warned that it would take 35 minutes to make. I’m not sure it was worth waiting for. I’m not one for overly greasy pizzas, but this one ran the other end of the spectrum, with a crust so dry it reminded us of bread. As a result, it could have used much more cheese, if only to provide a bit more fat for flavour.

Chi-Town Classic with pepperoni and mushrooms

While we liked the concept of offering multiple pizza varieties, Bensonhurst might have to make sure the execution is better to encourage repeat business. Hopefully this was just a blip attributed to their newly-open status.

Briggs Kitchen & Bar

Briggs Kitchen & Bar wasn’t our first choice for brunch, but being walking distance from our hotel and having the option of reserving a table was enough to sway us.

With Top Chef Canada alum Xavier Lacaze in the kitchen, I hear that dinner seats are hard to come by, but on that morning, the tables were few and far between. The industrial chic room, with buffed concrete floors and dark metal fixtures lent themselves more to an after-dark dining experience, but we expected as much. Their brunch menu is small and more sophisticated than most.

Case in point, my classic breakfast ($11) was comprised of ratatouille, prosciutto and fried eggs. I would have preferred the addition of some varying textures (crispy prosciutto, perhaps?), and likely should have waited several moments before diving in – the cast iron skillet kept the dish piping hot.

Classic breakfast

Mack’s breakfast perogies ($13) was the better dish, if not only for its unique nature and, well, a generous sprinkling of crispy bacon.

Breakfast perogies

Of note, our server was excellent, chipper and upbeat, and made sure our coffee was always topped up. It was a different kind of brunch than what we’re normally used to in Calgary, but one we’d return to, particularly if our group required reservations.

River Café

I’m a little embarrassed that it took us this long to finally get to River Café, a restaurant consistently regarded among Calgary’s best. And I’m happy to say it didn’t disappoint.

Tucked in Prince’s Island Park, requiring a five minute walk from the nearest parking lot (or for us, a half hour walk from our hotel), River Café should be one of the examples cited in conversations about Edmonton’s river valley development. I recognize that our river valley poses a gradient challenge Calgary doesn’t face, but I was more than a little surprised that a room full of people, many dressed in their weekend finery, were more than happy to brave the cold for a cozy dinner.

The room’s décor, lined with vintage cross-country skis, snowshoes and canoes, borders dangerously close to kitschy, but it somehow manages to remain on the charming side of cabin chic. Between the roaring wood hearth and the unseen forno oven in the kitchen, we smelled like campfire by the end of the night, cementing the concept of River Café as an urban getaway.

Mack at River Cafe

The food was memorable, starting with a white gold burrata ($15) – a made-in-Calgary item that seems to be appearing on menus all over the city. It featured a healthy serving of the fresh cheese, served with pickled cucumber and rye crisps.

White Gold burrata

Our server sold the night’s feature so well that Mack and I both decided to order it. Heralding spring, the al forno roasted halibut and fiddleheads ($39) was perfectly cooked and was such a joy to eat. It’s rare that we select the same entrée, and even more uncommon that we don’t regret it.

Roasted halibut and fiddleheads

I enjoyed the dessert of s’mores ($3), and in particular the buttery house-made graham cookie.

S’more

The service was fantastic – besides an initial delay in taking our order, ended on a note so warm and familiar we wanted to return for brunch in the morning. Needless to say, we’ve earmarked at least one of our next meals in Calgary already.

It was definitely another successful food-filled mini-break!

St. Patrick’s Day Dinner @ the Elm Café Dining Room

Mack and I are starting to feel like regulars at the Elm Café Dining Room (9132 118 Avenue), and I think we’re not the only ones. Although the meals are still infrequent enough to be classified as “special”, based on the full house at the St. Patrick’s Day supper this past Saturday, I’d say the word is getting out!

The food, typically built around a themed menu or special occasion, is always reasonably priced, and really is a tough deal to beat, especially when you consider the type of food being served. On this evening, the three-course meal was $30, not including drinks.

Mack enjoys his Irish beer

The first course was an elegantly presented potato dumpling soup. The dumplings were plump and tasty, but we did find the broth needed a dash more salt.

Potato dumpling soup

The main event was corned beef, considered to be a national dish of Ireland, and colcannon, a mixture of mashed potatoes and greens. The taste of the brine was evident in the meat, flavourful and seasoned well (and for those inclined, Chef Allan even shares his recipe here). I have to admit, however, I have a serious weakness for mashed potatoes. The pat of butter? Be still my beating heart.

Corned beef, colcannon and braised cabbage

Some of our earlier co-diners had raved about dessert, and we weren’t disappointed. The chocolate stout cake was rich but restrained, and even Mack, who isn’t one for sweets, remarked how much he enjoyed the glaze.

Stout cake

Green beer didn’t make a single appearance at the supper, something neither of us missed at all! Keep an eye out on Twitter for the next Elm Café Dining Room meal, though plans are in the works for a standalone page in the future.

It’s All About the Menu: Tavern 1903

Though it can be frustrating, it’s ultimately a sign of a healthy restaurant scene when there are a number of restaurants that are near impossible to get into without advance notice. Corso 32, RGE RD and Tavern 1903 seem to be at the top of the “most wanted” dining list at the moment. Mack and I finally made it into the latter on our third try, squeezing into a table for two early on a Friday evening.

It was, as expected, a packed house on both sides of Tavern 1903. On that night, winding down from a stressful week at work, I was a little grateful to be on the more casual lounge side, full of character from the fully restored Alberta Hotel bar, details ranging from the gorgeous coffered ceiling to the antique cash register on the counter. I will say the music choices did seem dissonant considering the surroundings, and included both Psy and Pink that night.

We noticed quite an age spread in both rooms, but the younger set definitely made up the majority of our co-diners in the lounge. Given Hardware Grill’s typical baby boomer clientele, it was great to see that Larry Stewart’s new restaurant has been able to attract a more diverse crowd.

Mack at Tavern 1903

I have to think that part of the wide appeal of Tavern 1903 relates to their menu. It’s more approachable, in terms of price and range of dishes, when compared to its sister restaurant. I had heard about their mozzarella bar, which presents a variety of flavour combinations to highlight fresh cheese, but I didn’t know that Tavern also offers a wonderful array of share plates, as well as more traditional entrees for those seeking solitary dishes. Mack and I had a difficult time paring down our choices, but knew we had to order at least one dish featuring mozzarella.

We didn’t regret it – smeared on crostini, along with bacon and fennel marmalade ($15), they were a delicious appetizer that set the tone for the meal. Mack particularly enjoyed the heavy hand that dealt the bacon.

Mozzarella crostini

KFC (or Korean Fried Cauliflower) is quickly becoming known as Tavern 1903’s signature dish ($9). It not only plays into the idea that “cauliflower is the new kale”, but also demonstrates the rise of Korean flavours onto mainstream menus. Tavern’s KFC renders cauliflower almost unrecognizable – florets are battered, deep fried, then tossed in a sweet-spicy sauce. It was unique, satisfying, and wholly addictive.

Korean fried cauliflower

I wasn’t prepared for the heat of the duck confit tacos ($15). I inhaled a few chili seeds on my first two bites, so Mack ended up finishing the plate. They were beautifully presented, garnished with sour cherries, pickled carrots, cucumber and radish and featured a healthy serving of duck. These were definitely not roadside tacos, and we appreciated Tavern’s upscale interpretation of a street staple.

Duck confit tacos

We couldn’t resist sharing a bowl of truffled mac n cheese with baby lobster and shiitakes ($20). The price may have seemed steep at first, but given the amount of lobster we unearthed, it was right on the money. The sauce was delightfully creamy (my preference for mac and cheese), but what was apparent in the dish was the attention to detail – everything from the pasta shells to the mushrooms to the pieces of lobster were of uniform size.

Truffled mac n cheese

Our server was friendly and very pleasant, and our only minor complaint was that she disappeared for lengthy stretches of time. Overall, I have to say it was one of the most consistent meals we’ve had in some time. With so many more dishes to try, I can see us returning again soon.

Tavern 1903
9802 Jasper Avenue
(780) 424-0152

The New KFC: Coco Deep Fried Chicken

Trying on wedding attire after consuming a fried chicken dinner probably isn’t ideal, but in a way, if not for a full stomach, how could one adequately determine whether or not a dress could comfortably accommodate a reception meal?

I’m lucky my sisters are typically game for anything, so when I suggested dinner at Coco Deep Fried Chicken before a weeknight appointment at a southside bridal salon, they barely put up a fight. It was a good opportunity to give this relatively new Korean joint a try, given I’d read so much about it.

The interior is simple, the extent of the décor being a few chicken and kitchen-related prints on the walls. Given the restaurant only opened late last year however, the deteriorating floors were particularly noticeable. Hopefully that will get looked at soon.

Order up!

If the crowd spoke to the authenticity of Coco Deep Fried Chicken, I’d have to say it was a good sign. The two tables already digging into their meals when we walked in that evening looked to be Korean, and nearly every other party that walked into the shop were also of Korean origin. The owner, upon finding out that it was our first visit, assured us that the chicken tasted “just like in Korea” (for the record, none of us have ever been, so we wouldn’t be able to make a first-hand judgment call).

Some might be put off by the fact that Coco Deep Fried Chicken really only offers their namesake dish, but I respect a restaurant that dares to do this (and think there should be more of them!). The extent of their menu variety involves fried chicken and sweet and hot chicken (otherwise known as Korean fried chicken). Eyeing the three of us, the owner recommended the ten piece box. That seemed like too much food, so we toned down the order.

Amanda and I shared a four piece order and and fries ($10.99). We dug into the regular chicken first – we both loved the crunchy breading, just thick enough and freshly fried. The meat underneath was moist and tender, though we did hope for more. We were starting to understand why a larger serving size was recommended to us.

Four piece half and half chicken

The sweet and hot chicken was exactly as it sounded, though for our palates, it leaned more towards the latter. It definitely had us reaching for our drinks, but was a spicy flavour contrast to the plain fried chicken. We did wish the restaurant had a supply of wet naps though!

Felicia had ordered the chicken and waffles ($7.99), but really wasn’t expecting what she received – two toasted freezer waffles. I know it’s the trendy dish right now, but the strength of Coco’s main dish is enough to bypass bandwagons.

Chicken and waffles

It sounds like Coco also does a mean take out business, so should you be in the area, be advised – there’s a new KFC in town! Just make sure you order more than you think you’ll need –

Coco Deep Fried Chicken
3350 Parsons Road
(780) 990-4304
Monday-Saturday 11:30am-9pm, Sunday 2-8pm

Redefining Canadian Possibilities: North 53

We do our best to dine at new restaurants only after they’ve had at least four to six weeks under their belt, when they’ve had a chance to enhance systems, tighten up the menu, and refine service. Two weeks ago, we overlooked this practice knowing it would be a good opportunity to spend an entire evening in Westmount and neighbouring Glenora – first at North 53 and then, within walking distance, the Royal Alberta Museum.

North 53 has been the most exciting restaurant to open this year for a variety of reasons. They have thrown down the gauntlet in an attempt to redefine what is possible for northern kitchens by committing to using exclusively Canadian ingredients on their food menu (and in the dead of winter, this is no small feat). If that isn’t bold enough, the head chef Ben Staley is just twenty-one years old.

In many ways, the discourse around Chef Staley reminds me of the early fanfare surrounding Chef Daniel Costa just after he opened Corso 32, leading up to his eventual standing as the darling of the Edmonton food scene (when Bar Bricco opens later this month, expect another frenzy of excitement). In a town with few mainstream culinary rockstars, I’m hopeful that this bodes well for independent chefs who should be more recognizable.

The interior is decidedly modern chic, with a combined bar and dining room that highlights the contrasts of polished metal and untreated wood. Though we were the first to arrive that night, by our meal’s end, the restaurant was full.

Interior

We were told that the $100 six-course tasting menu would be the best way to sample the kitchen’s range of fare, but on our first visit, we thought it best to order a la carte. Like many of its peers, North 53 encourages sharing of their small plates. On this visit, we managed to try half a dozen.

But first, we opted for a drink, which, we learned quickly, wasn’t held to the same latitude standards shackling the kitchen. My Atwood was a pleasing way for me to ease into the weekend, sweet and citrusy, but Mack’s Smoke + Oak was the showstopper. Our introduction to North 53’s theatricality, his glass arrived topped with a two-inch slice of charred oak. When lifted, it was evident that the smoke had infused itself into the liquid beneath it. Talk about a way to set the stage.

Drinks

Our starter dish consisted of a variety of carrot preparations (pickled, charred, sous vide and raw) and reminded me very much of Elm Café’s stellar vegetarian course at the Slow Food Canada Gala a few years back. Similarly, it was beautifully presented, a study in textures, and an unexpected way to deliver a typically underwhelming salad course. Our only complaint was that past the impressive layers, there wasn’t much there for $10.

Carrot

The kale dish ($14) was also a pleasant surprise, stuffed inside handmade pasta and topped with hazelnut foam and pecorino. We were told that The Cheesiry was the source of the pecorino, but like all other local suppliers North 53 patronizes (including Heritage Harvest Gardens), they are left unlisted on the menu – hopefully this changes in the future.

Kale

Into the meat courses, it became clear the kitchen’s preferred technique was sous vide. Nearly every plate we sampled employed that method of cooking. The twenty-four hour dandelion root-glazed short rib ($17) was one example where we would have chosen an alternative preparation. Its spongy, springy texture was off-putting, and as a result, our least favourite dish. The accompanying romaine, however, grilled and sprinkled with egg yolk and pecorino, was a revelation. It made me long for summer barbecues and sunshine.

Short rib

The main component of the heritage turkey plate ($20) involved a compound turkey breast that had been cooked sous vide for twelve hours. While the meat was moist, we didn’t find the turkey particularly flavourful. This in contrast to the smoked turkey leg inside the sidelong cabbage roll, which was delicious and had us wanting more.

Heritage turkey

Theatrics returned with the sockeye salmon ($18). Encased in a glass dome piped with juniper smoke, the act of lifting the cover, perfuming the air with a tantalizing scent will no doubt be one of North 53’s most immediate contributions to Edmonton’s food scene – reinventing the art of presentation. At any rate, the crispy line-caught BC salmon was our favourite dish, paired with a bite of sweetness from the macerated tomatoes and shallots, and the melt-in-your-mouth bed of northern beans (prepared sous vide, of course).

Sockeye salmon

The apple dessert ($10) offered a taste of the fruit in three ways – a doughnut, curd and ice cream. The latter, refreshingly tart with a texture closer to sorbet, was the star of the bowl.

Apple

Service was endearing but professional, and for our tastes, perhaps bordered on too formal. Case in point – I recognize the restaurant wanted to keep the dishes independent from one another, but the fact that every tasting plate had to be changed after each course seemed a bit like overkill in a setting that didn’t connote fine dining.

Still, North 53 is a welcome addition to the restaurant scene, ripe with new ideas and enthusiasm about a different approach to sourcing food in Edmonton. I didn’t find myself left wanting for pepper, citrus, or any of the other typical condiments or flavours sourced from warmer climates. It will be interesting to see how their menu develops as the seasons change.

North 53
10240 124 Street
(587) 524-5353
Wednesday-Sunday 5pm-late

Location, Location, Location: State & Main

When it was announced that State & Main was moving into Southgate Centre, I was excited. Not necessarily for the chain itself, but for the fact that the transit hub was in dire need of more sit-down restaurants within walking proximity of the station (I will say that the addition of The Glass Monkey in Lendrum is a recent bonus, though the hike up the busy 111 Street isn’t necessarily pleasant).

With Amanda working later in the evening at the mall on Sunday, it was most convenient for Felicia and I to meet up with her at State & Main so she didn’t have to travel far after her shift.

The restaurant, a part of the Original Joe’s group, angles itself to be the more polished older brother of the family. The fixtures are nicer, the lighting is a little more sexy, and the bar is much more reminiscent of a casual date night than a post-hockey pint. As it happened, the NFL Conference final was streaming on the screens, but most of our fellow diners only seemed to glance up at the TVs in passing.

Oddly enough, I really thought their menu would match the upper-scale aesthetics of the place. Instead, it is virtually identical to its Original Joe’s counterpart. A few dishes differ – a Greek-inspired flatbread at State & Main as opposed to an Indian-inspired flatbread at Original Joe’s, for example – but that’s it. I haven’t been to OJ’s in some time, otherwise, I’d be keen to compare pricing.

At any rate, after we were seated in the half-full lounge, water deposited at the table, we didn’t see our server for a good ten minutes. We were still waiting for Amanda to join us, but neither Felicia or I had eaten lunch that day, and were hoping to snack on an appetizer before our main meal. The server eventually made her way back to our table, and thankfully, both the bar and the kitchen made up for her long pause with haste.

Pink lemonade

The mama’s meatballs ($13) was essentially a deconstructed pizza sub, topped with a generous sprinkling of mozzarella. It definitely hit the spot, alongside the toasted garlic bread.

Mama’s meatballs

I prefer my roast beef on the medium rare side, so the French dip ($14.50) that arrived, with meat well-done and dry, wasn’t my favourite. That said, it would have been immensely easier to eat had it been sliced in half. Like Original Joe’s, State & Main also offers the choice of two sides with most entrees. Unfortunately, only one of them was worth selecting. The honey slaw was fine, but the sweet potato fries were a disappointment, not altogether under-fried but barely crispy.

French dip with honey slaw and sweet potato fries

At some point, a different server started working our section, so we ended the evening with better service than we started with. But I’m not sure that made up for my sub-par experience overall. I’d be willing to give State & Main a second chance, but with much lower expectations on the next round.

State & Main
850, 5015 111 Street (Southgate Centre)
(587) 524-3251
Monday-Friday 11am-2am, Saturday-Sunday 10am-2am

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