In View of Rogers Place: Wheat Garden Noodle & Dumpling Bazaar

Central McDougall, the neighbourhood just north of Ice District (it still feels unnatural not to include a "the"), is at a crossroads. It will definitely endure more foot traffic once the arena opens this fall, but I do hope it will be seen as more than just a repository for vehicles.

Restaurants like the newly-opened Wheat Garden Noodle & Dumpling Bazaar have an opportunity to change that perception. Similar to Noodle Feast on the south side, they specialize in Northern Chinese cuisine and handmade noodles. Given Wheat Garden’s average entrée price hovers around $11 (for now), it’ll be interesting to see whether folks will discover these gems like this "on the other side", or if the uptick will only impact the more upscale or pedestrian restaurants south of 104 Avenue.

At any rate, Wheat Garden is already trying to make their presence known on social media, opening up channels on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook in a way most small, family-run businesses don’t have the capacity to do. Even better, to engage customers, they offer some immediate gratification in the form of a free drink or side to diners who mention the restaurant on their own social media channels.

When Su and I stopped by last week for dinner, it was obvious the space had been transformed from its previous tenant (the Old Szechuan Restaurant, which has since relocated to Old Strathcona). The new paint hue lightens the room and further highlights the expanse of windows. The only downside of the cozy and intimate dining area is that save for some quiet televisions in the corner, there is no background noise. Su and I felt like we had to deliberately keep our voices down to prevent from being heard across the space.

Interior

The menu offers rice-based plates in addition to their namesake dishes, but since this was my first visit, I stuck to the latter. Su recommended we share the assorted dumplings ($13.99/18 pieces), made up of six different flavours, and I ordered the ground beef spicy noodle ($10.99) for my entrée. It may be of interest to some that all meats served at Wheat Garden are certified halal (they claim to be the first Chinese halal restaurant in Edmonton).

Everything is made fresh to order, and it’s obvious that the staff take genuine pride in their food and service. The dumplings were a visual delight, though we didn’t inquire about the colour coding, which resulted in a fun round of dumpling roulette. The handmade skins offered a great springy texture, and the fillings were well-seasoned. My favourite flavour of the bunch I tried was the chicken, mushroom and fungus.

Assorted dumplings

My noodle bowl was probably meant to be devoured faster than I could keep up – the handmade noodles had sopped up much of the thick broth by the time I got to it. They did have a nice bite to them though, and I will be eager to try the flat noodles on another occasion. The dish also wasn’t as spicy as I was expecting either.

Spicy ground beef noodles

With good service, tasty food, and reasonable prices, I hope that folks flocking to Rogers Place will consider Wheat Garden or other Central McDougall alternatives. It’d be a shame if they remain under the radar and overshadowed by more mainstream eateries.

Wheat Garden Noodle & Dumpling Bazaar
10703 103 Street
(780) 757-8166
Monday, Wednesday-Thursday 11:30am-8:30pm, Saturday-Sunday 11:30am-9pm, closed Tuesdays

Recap: Northern Chicken Pop-up @ Dovetail Deli

Restaurant pop-ups are still alive and well in Edmonton, showcasing everything from entrepreneurial concepts to collaborations with out-of-town chefs. Personally, my favourite pop-ups remain those that function as testing grounds for new ideas – they feel more raw and honest, with chefs putting out their heart and soul with the hope of being embraced by Edmontonians. Prairie Noodle is the most successful example of this, launching their brick and mortar shop after a series of sold-out pop-ups to test flavour profiles and their contemporary take on ramen.

Northern Chicken is the most recent pop-up of this nature, beget by the industrious chefs Andrew Cowan (of Packrat Louie and formerly of Century Hospitality Group) and Matt Phillips (most recently of Century Hospitality Group). The duo’s Northern Chicken celebrates comfort food done right, focusing on fried chicken and all the fixings.

Chefs Matt Phillips and Andrew Cowan

Their first pop-up took place at Dovetail Deli on Sunday, and the weather couldn’t have been better. Mack and I took advantage of the sunshine and walk over to 124 Street, and upon arrival, was greeted by a (thankfully) fast-moving line.

Hungry for fried chicken!

It was great to see many other chefs in attendance to support Northern Chicken, include Blair Lebsack from neighbouring RGE RD, Paul Shufelt (formerly of Century Hospitality and currently at Workshop Eatery), Levi Biddlecomb (of food truck Attila the Hungry, and fresh off his own pop-up at the nearby Prairie Noodle). Avenue Calgary Magazine recently conducted an interview with several Calgary chefs who spoke very highly of their collaborative, supportive food community, and I’m fairly certain something similar could be said of the scene in Edmonton.

At any rate, the menu was short and sweet – the choice between Matt’s fried or Andrew’s spicy chicken, a fried chicken sandwich, and sides of bacon truffled cream corn, Doritos mac and cheese, and coleslaw. Apple and buttermilk pies also tempted on the counter.

Mack and I both opted for the fried chicken sandwich ($9), and chose to share a side of mac and cheese ($8). We grabbed a couple of cold drinks and took our takeaway order outside to the picnic tables down the street.

We were most impressed by the size of the sandwich, with a hefty piece of breaded white meat, between a housemade sourdough bun, pickles, slaw and spicy mayo. We found the breading to be crispy, sealing in the juices of the meat. I also loved the thick slices of pickles for texture and taste. Our only critique was dense sourdough bun – we appreciated that it held up nicely, but our preference is for a more yielding type of bread.

Fried chicken sandwich

The Doritos mac and cheese didn’t quite live up to its name – we were expecting a very obvious dusting of chips on top, or somehow visually integrated into the pasta. But besides the vibrant orange of the mac, we were left with an aftertaste we couldn’t quite place.

Doritos mac and cheese

It’s great to see more concepts bubble up in Edmonton. I wish Chefs Andrew and Matt all the best as Northern Chicken comes closer to fruition. Follow them on Twitter to find out about their next event!

New and Old for Downtown Dining Week: Alberta Hotel Bar & Kitchen and Hardware Grill

It’s really too bad Edmonton’s only prix fixe dining festival (RIP Fork Fest) isn’t city-wide like Calgary’s Big Taste, or twice a year, like Toronto’s Summer and Winterlicious. But Downtown Dining Week, now in its thirteenth year, has provided a consistent opportunity for Edmontonians to sample the cuisine of the core.

I’m not sure if it is the current state of the economy, or whether people were just taking advantage of the promotion, but this year’s Downtown Dining Week seemed busier than previous festivals. After perusing the menus, I made two reservations: one at a fairly new addition to the neighbourhood, and a second at a tried-and-true establishment.

I was one among many who mourned the loss of Tavern 1903 at the end of 2014. Mack and I found ourselves there often, swayed by their combination of fantastic cocktails and inventive small plates. Thankfully, the vacated space in the historic Alberta Hotel did not stay empty for long – Chef Spencer Thompson (formerly of Toast Fine Catering, based at the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market) moved in less than a year later, when Alberta Hotel Bar and Kitchen opened. I hadn’t yet had a chance to visit the restaurant, and there was no better opportunity than Downtown Dining Week to do so, all while catching up with some girlfriends.

The interior of Alberta Hotel Bar and Kitchen (an unfortunate mouthful of a name) hasn’t changed much from its predecessor, retaining the vintage bar and polished dining room, right down to the furnishings. The only difference that we could discern was a more cramped seating area – our table and the party next to us were wedged uncomfortably in the corner. And though it’s difficult to manage sound, given the open flow between the two rooms, the 80s pop music emanating from the bar seemed more suitable for a diner than a dining room laden with white table cloths.

No doubt, the $28 three course menu was a great deal. It seemed many others found it an equally big draw, as our server indicated that on the Monday of the same week, they served 300 patrons, tripling their usual covers that night. It was so successful that they decided to continue the fixed $28 three course offerings every Monday even after the close of Downtown Dining Week.

Even though we had the choice between two appetizers and two mains, all three of us ended up with identical meals. The bone marrow agnolotti was tasty, layered with brown butter and mushrooms, but I would have preferred the pasta to have been cooked a touch more.

Bone marrow agnolotti

The grilled swordfish main, served with a caper, red currant and pine nut beurre blanc was overdone, but the standout aspect of the dish was the creamy side of Gold Forest Grains farro.

Grilled swordfish with farro

The dessert, a chocolate fondant with warm caramel and graham cracker streusel was a bit inconsistent at the table. I found mine on the molten side, but the banana ice cream served alongside more than made up for it with its intense, concentrated flavour. When the pastry chef Kai Wong moves to her own bakery, I hope the ice cream will be on the menu in some form.

Chocolate fondant with banana ice cream

While our meal at Alberta Hotel was somewhat inconsistent, we did enjoy the overall experience. Our server was friendly and attentive, and the dishes were enticing enough to warrant future visits.

My second Downtown Dining Week reservation had to be at the Hardware Grill. Some of those dishes and drinks we loved at Tavern 1903 migrated to its established sibling, and it was about time for us to reacquaint ourselves with them.

One of my long lost loves was the Desert Shrub cocktail, a delicious combination of prosecco, grapefruit juice and tequila.

It’s been too long

Though the city’s love affair with cauliflower seems to have ended, the Korean fried cauliflower dish is classic, and perfectly made every time.

Korean fried cauliflower

Those drinks and dishes were in addition to the $48 three-course prix fixe menu, so the upsell worked on us. Hardware has had an ongoing $50 three-course promotion, called a "before sunset" menu for some time, but it has since expanded it from early seatings on Mondays to Thursdays to include all seatings on Mondays to Thursdays plus early seatings on Friday and Saturday. One has to assume the restaurant’s reputation as a special occasion restaurant has to hurt it more than others in an economy like this.

But like the consistency of the kitchen, Hardware Grill always delivers on service. We’re always impressed by the professional but easygoing nature of the servers – they always manage to ease the formality of the restaurant with humour and grace, and are easily the best team in the city.

We had far exceeded our 1.5 hour stay (as mentioned on the Downtown Dining Week menu), but we were never rushed. We felt bad, however, when leaving and realizing that there were a number of parties waiting for a table in the lobby.

While I will still hold out hope for a resurrection of Tavern 1903 in some form or another in the future, it’s nice to know that I can still satisfy my cravings at Hardware Grill.

Get Your Bacon On: Bacon Feast at Pampa

Pampa just celebrated their fifth anniversary in Edmonton, so it’s safe to say rodizio-style dining is here to stay. While it was never a surprise that a meat-centric restaurant would be a success in the city, I know I did wonder how much repeat business they could garner, given the single-meal extravagance at its core. Even Mack and I, who are far from being vegetarian, have found ourselves adopting meatless meals in the wake of visits to Pampa.

The Grill at Pampa

At any rate, meat lovers will rejoice with the return of Pampa’s second annual Bacon Feast. An enhancement to their regular menu, $14.95 on top of the $49.95 per person cost grants diners access to an additional two types of bacon-wrapped meat as well as a bacon-infused dessert.

Bacon-infused vodka Caesar

To give it a try, Linda convened several members of the local food community for a complimentary tasting, and Mack and I were fortunate enough to be included. It confirmed again the fact that Pampa is more fun when enjoyed with a large party. The theatrical style of dining, involving servers who rotate through the room with spears of meat for table side carving extends to its drink menu as well. This was the first time we experienced the heightened pour of Licor 43, a spirit crafted with a combination of 43 herbs and spices. The server stood atop a step stool and successfully filled a shot glass on the table from above. You can bet this commanded the attention of surrounding groups.

Pampa’s signature shot

Part of the fun of Pampa is cycling through the ten (or in our case, twelve) different cuts of beef, chicken, lamb and pork to find your favourite . Our fellow diner Sharman had a great tip to minimize the gluttony of this process – Mack and I shared what was dubbed a "meat plate", so we could more easily share tastes of the meat offerings without filling up on them right away. She also pointed us to some of the dipping sauces available at the salad bar.

Speaking of the salad bar, there were a number of hot entrees to choose from that I didn’t recall from previous visits. My favourite was a deeply flavoured black bean stew that doubled as another sauce option.

After sampling all of the cuts, Mack returned to the medium rare rump steak a few times. I enjoyed the bacon-enhanced meat – including the bacon-wrapped chicken on the regular rotation, but also the bacon-wrapped boneless veal leg on the feature menu. The other Bacon Feast option of the marinated crispy pork belly, with its luscious layer of fat, was also a crowd favourite.

Crispy pork belly

The Bacon Feast dessert was a warm chocolate cake with bacon-infused caramel, vanilla bean ice cream and caramalized bacon bits. The cake was well-made, rich and dense, but the bacon seemed like an afterthought instead of a critical component.

Chocolate petite gateau

The $75 per person price tag is difficult to account for based on food alone, but then again, dining out is never exclusive to consumables. The service accounts for much of the value as well, and as in previous visits, was again commendable. Our server was game for the table’s shenanigans, and made the evening light and fun.

Linda in a meat coma

For those seeking more intimate knowledge of Pampa, they will be offering eight person 3 hour classes starting in April. They will share "trade secrets" of grilling with charcoal, and hands-on instruction of meat-stuffed bread, Feijoada (the aforementioned black bean stew) and guava cheesecake. The cost is $119 per person – call Pampa to book a spot.

Thanks to Linda for the invitation, and to Pampa for hosting us! Bacon Feast runs for the month of April. Check out Linda and Sharman’s recaps about our meal as well.

Pampa
9929 109 Street
(780) 756-7030
Lunch – Monday-Friday 11:30am-1:30pm; Dinner – Monday-Thursday 5-9pm, Friday 5-10pm, Saturday 3-10pm, Sunday 4-8pm; Brunch – 11am-2pm

Recap: Saturday Brunch Pop-Up at Get Cooking

In the last year, there has been an increase in the number of non-traditional venues hosting brunch. This includes Sailin’ On’s Breakfast Club at The Buckingham, and the fairly new Wild Heart Brunch Club at The Mercury Room. Another recent addition to the weekend scene is Get Cooking’s Brunch Pop-Ups.

They launched just over a month ago at the end of January, and seek to provide people with a relaxed opportunity to gather and socialize. It takes place every Saturday at noon, and based on our experience last week, it isn’t a meal you will rush through (we were there a total of 2.5 hours). Brunch at Get Cooking is meant to be savoured, and if you don’t know the folks around your communal table, you will by the end of the afternoon! Plus, the food we consumed was so rich we needed time between courses just to recuperate.

Mack and I were invited by Get Cooking to experience their brunch last weekend. We arrived just after noon to a nearly full house. For those who prefer one of the coveted island seats, I’d recommend arriving early to guarantee yourself a front row vantage point. Some of the kitchen action can be seen from other areas of the room on the TV monitors, but cooking tips and tricks (unlike other Get Cooking classes) are not the focus here. In fact, Chef Doreen Prei wasn’t miked, so she was difficult to hear above the din of social chatter. We did wander over to the stove every now and then, but the open kitchen was more of an incidental presence than a deliberate attraction. Personally, I would have appreciated more details about where the ingredients were sourced (even if only on a menu), but I was probably in the minority.

Chef Doreen Prei

The $45 ticket ($22.50 for kids aged 7-13) includes a tasting board, an amuse, four courses, coffee or tea and a welcome cocktail. The cocktail was served family-style in a generous punch bowl – Ann’s Garden Punch was an easy-to-drink combination of pineapple-infused rum, lemon, almond syrup, sumac, mint, cucumber and strawberries.

Ann’s Garden Punch

It might have been a small detail, but Mack and I appreciated that the coffee, made with Iconoclast-roasted beans, kept coming. Staff ensured the French presses at our table were refreshed as necessary, and the milk for coffee was even thoughtfully warmed.

Before the hot courses arrived, we were invited to sip our drinks and fill up our plates at their tasting board. Changing weekly, the selections that day included margarita scones (served with compote and cream), and a variety of cheeses and charcuterie.

Tasting boards

Chef Prei’s amuse bouche consisted of shot glasses of Gold Forest Grains steel cut oats, bits of chorizo, and a garnish of whipped cream, blueberries and pistachios. I’ve never been a fan of oatmeal, but the addition of chorizo was genius – the fat and flavour boost has made me reconsider this breakfast option.

Steel cut oats with chorizo, whipped cream, blueberries and pistachios

Ricotta fritters, served on beautiful table-length wooden planks, were a delight to eat, lightly battered, fried, and accompanied by a tomato and orange jam.

Ricotta fritters

Eggs made their appearance in the next course – poached over smoked salmon and a delectable potato rosti and bernaise. Chef Prei shared her secret for poaching eggs: a splash of vinegar and vigorous whisking of the water prior to slipping the eggs in, as the motion helps draw the whites in around the yolk.

Eggs benedict with smoked salmon and potato rosti

My favourite dish was one I would never order on my own at brunch – a beer-marinated flank steak with greens, a German bread dumpling and mushroom sauce. The beef was perfectly medium rare, and the dumpling, pan-fried in butter, was delicious.

Beer-marinated flank steak with greens and a German bread dumpling

Dessert combined hot and cold elements: fried brioche rolled in lavender sugar with a brandy chocolate drizzle plus a white chocolate elderflower parfait.

Fried brioche and white chocolate elderflower parfait

As a whole, the meal at Get Cooking featured some of the most refined dishes I’ve ever had at brunch. As everything was made fresh, it does distinguish itself from the buffet-style brunches aligned by price alone. In this case, the ticket price is justified based on the quality and unique nature of the dishes. And because of the ever-changing menu, this brunch stays true to its pop-up inspiration.

Up close and personal with plating

Thanks again to Kathryn and Liv for the invitation! If you’re interested in trying their brunch, make sure to reserve online in advance, or stay tuned to their Twitter account for information about seats available on the day of.

Get Cooking
11050 104 Avenue
(780) 934-8058

Check out Athena’s review of the same brunch experience here.

A Place to Gather: Juniper Cafe & Bistro

Though Edmonton is most known-for its trendy restaurant districts – Downtown, 124 Street, Old Strathcona – the hidden gems buried within residential neighbourhoods are often the unsung heroes of our city. They are natural gathering places in areas where they might be few and far between, and provide a reason for residents to stay close to home. For me, it’s an excuse to explore a neighbourhood I might be less familiar with, pockets no less important in a city as diverse as Edmonton.

Juniper is one of the more recent low-key restaurant arrivals. While there have been a few reviews since it opened in November 2015, it’s still under the radar. On a Friday visit for dinner last month, we were told that the dining room, half-full, was one of their busier evenings.

Juniper took over the space formerly occupied by the infamous Strathearn Pub. While I hadn’t been to its previous incarnation, I imagine the space looks nothing like it once did, now with a wide open room and a built-in play space for little ones. Juniper’s defining feature is the counter, welcoming with displays of coffee, baked goods and tempting desserts. Juniper serves up three meals a day Wednesday to Saturday (and brunch on Sundays).

Mack

Their dinner menu is based on the idea of sharing family-style plates, a way of eating that Mack and I really enjoy. We started with the chorizo queso fundido ($8) in lieu of the sold-out steamed buns with hoisin duck. While the queso fundido did arrive piping hot with devilishly stringy cheese, if you’ve had the same dish from Rostizado (which yes, is double the price), it’s hard to compare. It’s a version not dissimilar from what you might craft at home, but in this kid-friendly context, is probably a good dish to have on the menu.

Queso fundido

The next two plates were fine, but over promised and under delivered. The roasted spuds with Indian spices ($12) needed to be "kicked up a notch", in Mack’s words. Even with the addition of duck gravy and cheese, they were much too mild in flavour.

Roasted spuds with Indian spices

The spicy meatballs on polenta ($16) was our favourite dish. The meatballs and polenta were well-prepared, but similar to the potatoes, the heat level didn’t live up to its name at all.

Spicy meatballs on polenta

Service was friendly, and we never felt rushed as we lingered over our coffee. Though we didn’t have dessert, I did pick up a cookie to take home, and after enjoying it wished I had the foresight to purchase more.

Overall, while Juniper didn’t quite reach the level of elevated comfort food, we are open to returning. They told us they are known for brunch, and their menu on the outset looks appealing. I hope they are able to refine some of their dishes to better meet diner expectations.

Juniper Cafe & Bistro
9514 87 Street
(780) 490-6799
Wednesday-Friday 8am-8pm, Saturday 8am-9pm, Sunday 10am-2pm, closed Monday-Tuesday

With a Side of History: Sunday Brunch at Fort Edmonton Park

Fort Edmonton Park is easily my favourite City of Edmonton attraction. I’m a sucker for amusements, and the 1920s midway at Fort Edmonton is one of the city’s best kept secrets. In the off-season, however, the Park operates on a limited basis – Capitol Theatre screens vintage films, Hotel Selkirk offers temporary accommodation year-round, and Johnson’s Café (located in Hotel Selkirk) hosts a special brunch every Sunday.

Mack and I were invited by Fort Edmonton Park to try their Sunday Brunch last weekend. Before settling on driving to the Park, we did explore public transit options (especially given the Park lends its name to an LRT stop). The closest we could get on a Sunday, however, was a bus ride from, ironically, University station followed by a 21 minute walk.

Hotel Selkirk

Reservations are taken for seatings every half hour from 10:30am until 1pm. By the time we arrived for our noon reservation, we found Johnson’s Cafe nearly full, made up of small parties of two and larger groups of families with small children.

From the outset, the meal was of good value, food-wise, and more than justified $32.95 cost for adults (seniors tickets are $27.95 and children 4-12 are $19.95). We were told that over the years, the brunch selection has increased significantly, from occupying one corner of the dining room to now taking up the hotel lobby in its entirety.

Omelette station

The Sunday brunch buffet spread spanned breakfast, lunch and dessert options. We started off with breakfast, taking full advantage of the omelette station, plump breakfast sausages and fantastically crispy bacon. We didn’t sample the eggs benedict, as it was doubtful the yolks would remain runny in the chafing dishes, but I did really enjoy the Parmesan grilled tomatoes.

Breakfast for two

We returned to sample the lunch choices, which included several cold salads, cheeses and charcuterie, seasonal vegetables, pasta, pork loin in a pineapple sauce, grilled chicken, and a carving station offering up nicely marbled beef brisket with a peppercorn jus.

Carving station

To be frank, I saved up the most room for dessert. I was most impressed with the dessert selection, highlighted by a showstopping red velvet cake and a deliciously moist spinach and beet cake (the green layers were vibrant without any noticeable spinach flavour). I was also drawn to the pineapple upside down cake, decadently served with a side of cream, and the notion of lavender and apple shooters, an interesting alternative to alcoholic shots. Mack was drawn to the kid-friendly desserts, including Rice Krispie treats and mini cupcakes.

Desserts!

Service was fantastic throughout – there were numerous staff ensuring the food stations were constantly refilled, while the dining room staff checked in with us constantly, topping up our coffee and water without request.

After brunch, we wandered 1905 and 1920 Streets, peering into windows and enjoying the scenic facades on a sunny winter afternoon. In the summer, brunch includes admission to the Park, which operates May until September. On that warm day, we couldn’t help but wonder why Fort Edmonton couldn’t be a year-round attraction, or at least one with a season extended beyond one-off events like Christmas Reflections and Easter hunts.

Visiting with the horses at Mellon Farm

As a part of the Winter City Strategy, the Park has built-in warming stations in its indoor facilities, and could easily replace train and streetcar transportation with horse-drawn wagon rides (an attraction that operates now, but is only available to groups). It would also be a great way to educate people about how Edmontonians in previous eras worked to stay warm.

1920 Street

Mack and I both agreed that while we enjoyed our brunch experience at Hotel Selkirk, because it required a trip to Fort Edmonton without the promise of visiting the attraction as a whole, we would be more likely to return during the summer months when it could be combined with the operational Park.

Of note, because we did commit to driving to the Park, we detoured to finally check out the Alfred H. Savage Centre, located on the opposite side of Fox Drive from Fort Edmonton (accessible through the Whitemud Park turnoff). It’s a lovely facility with restrooms that functions as a warm-up centre for the adjacent toboggan hill (marked as "closed" that day, in spite of all of the families out enjoying the beautiful day). Consider walking off the sumptuous meal with a jaunt in the trails, as we did.

At Whitemud Park

Thanks again to Fort Edmonton Park for hosting us! The Winter Sunday Brunch series runs until March 27, 2016.

Check out Linda’s review of Sunday brunch here.

Eat Your Heart Out: Love Pizza

If there was ever a restaurant named just for Mack, it would be called Love Pizza. When we’re meal planning for the following week, his consistent answer for dishes to add on the list is “pizza”. It’s also the single item he would commit to eating for the rest of his life if he was forced to pick just one. So in many ways, Love Pizza was the perfect place for us to end up on Valentine’s Day, given Mack’s affection for pizza.

In the past, Mack and I have written about our reluctance to dine out on Valentine’s Day, particularly as it relates to the perceived lack of value and an inability to live up to expectations. But on that night, we couldn’t bring ourselves to cook. Plus, in an unlikely twist, Love Pizza was actually offering a deal of half off a second pizza, almost unheard of on an occasion where the opposite is more likely to occur. Given the origins of the restaurant, however – a first date for the owners at a local pizzeria that led to love – it’s a fitting way to celebrate a day all about love.

Famoso, a quick-serve pizza concept, has grown in the ten years since its debut in Edmonton to more than two dozen locations in Alberta, BC, Saskatchewan and Ontario. Last year, the folks behind Sabor Divino opened Urbano, a fast-casual pizzeria focused on customizable pies ready in under two minutes. Love Pizza is the latest to embrace this build-your-own trend (including offering a gluten-free crust), and opened up in the Canterra Centre (10196 109 Street) on January 29, 2016.

Walking in to Love Pizza that night, we found the restaurant half full. The former tanning salon has been transformed into a cafeteria-style dining room, where orders are placed and picked up along the counter. We were both impressed by the fully-developed nature of the concept – everything from the signage to the menu had obviously been thought through to the point where we almost thought Love Pizza belonged to a franchise.

Love Pizza

In addition to the ability to create your own pie, Love Pizza also offers ten signature creations ($11.95 each), as well as a limited number of salads and desserts. They source some ingredients locally, including Gold Forest Grains flour for their whole wheat crust, Irvings Farm Fresh bacon and Spolumbo’s Italian sausage. I did appreciate the fact that toppings were differentiated from “finishes” – ingredients that are added after baking (it never made sense to me why Famoso would always choose to incinerate fresh basil on their margarita pizzas). That night, we chose to order the Meatatarian and the Old MacDonald on regular crust.

Counter

The pizzas were assembled in front of us with an obvious amount of care by very personable staff. They were then placed in an oven that promised a fully baked pizza in three minutes. We were told that the restaurant is working on installing a hood fan; the smoke wasn’t particularly noticeable that evening, but on a subsequent visit we definitely smelled like smoke after dinner.

Order up

Love Pizza understands that we all eat with our eyes first – their pizzas are some of the most photogenic I’ve ever encountered. They also didn’t skimp on the toppings, especially with the cheese. The crust is sturdy but nicely chewy, earning a thumbs up from Mack.

Old MacDonald

I enjoyed the Meatatarian, featuring a tomato sauce base with fior di latte, pepperoni, capicolla, Spolumbo’s Italian sausage and shaved parmesan. Mack’s pick of the Old MacDonald layered spicy tomato sauce with fior di latte, two eggs, Spolumbo’s Italian sausage, spinach, shaved parmesan and a drizzle of chili oil. Both pizzas had a ton of flavour from the toppings and a great diversity of texture.

Meatatarian

Based on the food, reasonable prices, and a relaxed atmosphere, Love Pizza just may have become our go-to pizzeria Downtown. They even have a loyalty program offering $5 off your next purchase. It’s a great concept, one that works for people looking for a quick bite during the day or those hoping to unwind in the evening. I hope they are successful and can maintain the quality in the long run.

Love Pizza
10196 109 Street
(587) 520-9734
Monday to Sunday 11am – 10pm

Celebrating the International Year of Pulses with Alberta Pulse

The UN General Assembly declared 2016 as the International Year of Pulses, highlighting their affordability, nutritional value and sustainability. As nearly 10% of Alberta’s crop acres are dedicated to growing pulses, it is a good time to promote this commodity at home.

Mack and I were invited to attend a recent event hosted by the Canadian Association of Foodservice Professionals (CAFP) at NAIT celebrating this hallmark year for pulses. The CAFP is a national organization that represents chefs, hospitality representatives, food manufacturers and nutritionists, among others. Local branches host learning opportunities for their members, including visits to area food production facilities. In February, in collaboration with Alberta Pulse, the Edmonton branch explored the topic of pulses.

CAFP at Ernest’s

It’s a subject I’ve been learning more about in the kitchen for a few years now. After reading Mark Bittman’s Food Matters more than five years ago (his mission was to encourage more conscious consumption of non-meat proteins), I was inspired to start including more beans and lentils in our diet. In 2011, Julie Van Rosendaal and Sue Duncan’s cookbook, Spilling the Beans, was released, becoming one of our go-to guides for meal inspirations. Now, pulses have just become a part of our regular rotation, both as a meat alternative but also to enhance soups, salads and mains, stretching the meal all while adding nutrients. At this point, our pantry and freezer would feel bare without having some variety of pulses on hand.

Allison Ammeter

That said, the presentations that evening were informative, especially to provide a local context. Farmer and chair of the Alberta Pulse Board, Allison Ammeter, shared the following:

Lentils fix their own nitrogen in the soil, meaning a reduced need for fertilizer when used as a part of a regular crop rotation;
Most pulses use less water, particularly peas and lentils, which is great for drought-prone regions; and
Pulses leave the soil better than it was – wheat grows better on pulse stubble.

Alberta grows a variety of pulses: primarily peas (green, yellow, marrowfat), but also beans (great northern, black, cranberry, pink, small red), lentils (red, green) and chickpeas. And though most are familiar with whole pulses, they can be purchased as flour products as well.

It’s also an unfortunate reality that it’s not easy to locate "product of Alberta" pulses. Unless it is packaged in the province, even locally-grown products end up with a broader "product of Canada" label. Perhaps in the grand scheme of things, it doesn’t matter if it lists the growing province, but it does make it more difficult for those hoping to source their food as locally as possible (thankfully in Edmonton, Gold Forest Grains does sell excellent organic red lentils). As the Minister of Agriculture was present that evening, I was hoping that some advocacy might have happened on the need for more production facilities in the province.

Debra McLennan

Debra McLennan from Alberta Pulse shared some nutritional facts of pulses:

They are gluten-free and vegetarian;
They are low in fat, and protein-packed (curiously, in Australia, legumes are classified as a vegetable when a 1/2 cup is served, but as a meat alternative when 3/4 cup is served);
They are an excellent source of folate and are high in fibre; and
They are beneficial in reducing "bad" cholesterol.

Pulses are also relatively light on the wallet, costing significantly less when compared with meat sources of protein. In the context of rising food prices, affecting everyone from consumers at home to restaurant operators, this spotlight on pulses couldn’t come at a better time.

In collaboration with the chefs at Ernest’s, Debra designed the evening’s menu to highlight the many sides of pulses. To start, we enjoyed a duo of yellow split pea soup and a pork croquette which used a white bean purée to bind the meat.

Duo of yellow split pea soup and pork croquette

The entrée was a pan-roasted chicken served with a lentil and rice pilaf. The chicken was very well-prepared, and the pilaf tasty enough, but it was a missed opportunity not to highlight pulses as the main event (Indian-inspired dal, or falafel, for instance).

Pan roasted herbed breast of chicken

For dessert, we were treated to a lentil fudge pie. The pie incorporated a red lentil purée that could not be detected, taste-wise, and with the added nutrients, it’s almost a guilt-free dessert. That recipe can be found online at the Alberta Pulse website.

Lentil fudge pie

If you’re interested in learning more about pulses, check out more recipes at pulses.org, and consider taking the pulse pledge – all it takes is committing to eating a half cup of pulses per week.

Thanks to the CAFP and Alberta Pulse for having us!

In the Dark of Night: Luminaria

In a northern city like Edmonton, it’s somewhat surprising that we don’t celebrate the inevitable darkness of winter more. It could be as simple as highlighting Elk Island Park, a dark sky preserve perfect for star gazing, or taking advantage of the opportunity to light up the night, outside of the holiday season.

This weekend’s Flying Canoe Volant is a great example of this, lighting up the trails of the Mill Creek Ravine to encourage families to explore an area typically avoided after dark. And every December, the Devonian Botanical Garden’s Luminaria transforms the Kurimoto Japanese Garden into a beautiful canvas of lights.

Luminaria

Mack and I had been meaning to visit Luminaria for years, but never planned well enough in advance to do so. Tickets are sold fast and furious weeks prior to the annual festival, held the first weekend in December. In 2015, organizers added another layer to the tickets, asking patrons to choose between limited on-site parking and free shuttles from either the University of Alberta or Devon in advance. Mack and I found the shuttle option both convenient and seamless – we hopped on the LRT from home and walked over to the waiting yellow buses parked across from Health Sciences/Jubilee Station, and allowed the able drivers to take care of the rest.

Angels among us

It was clear that for some, Luminaria is an annual family tradition that helps mark the beginning of the holiday season. Patrons varied in age, with some groups spanning multiple generations.

Kurimoto Japanese Garden

The main attraction is, of course, the Kurimoto Japanese Garden, its paths lined with 2,000 candles. Each night, volunteers light the candles, all carefully placed into paper bags weighted down with sand. To recreate this magic at home, the gift shop even had ready-made kits for sale.

Small but mighty

Just to the right of the garden was a section called Memory Lane, meant for those wishing to light a candle in remembrance of a loved one. Volunteers reminded us to be mindful of those in mourning along the path.

Memory Lane

The rest of our stroll was a mix of quiet reflection and appreciation of the lights in a context of darkness, and a reminder that the festive season was around the corner. A highlight for me was enjoying the complimentary hot apple cider while listening to roving Christmas carollers.

Carollers under the lights

Besides the main attraction, there was a small hay bale maze for the young ones to explore, and those of all ages had the option of writing down a wish to hang on their trees (reminding me of the Nuit Blanche Wishing Tree installation in Churchill Square last fall). There was also a small indoor craft sale to peruse for those thinking ahead. Our only complaint was with the food offered on-site, as the choice was limited to beef stew. Perhaps other options could be offered in the future that would be equally easy to eat and venue-appropriate? A broader menu would at least encourage patrons to linger, as we found we were done exploring the garden and the surrounding attractions in about an hour.

Wishing upon a star

Our first time at Luminaria did not disappoint, and we really did appreciate how easy it was to get to and from the Devonian Botanical Garden. If you’re interested in checking it out for yourself, mark your calendars for December 2-4, 2016. Tickets go on sale September 1, 2016.

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