Better Luck Next Time: Marco’s Famous

For a quick food stop prior to a Revolutionary Speakers’ Series lecture by Sue Johanson (of Sunday Night Sex Show fame), we opted to try Marco’s Famous in the Students’ Union Building on campus (8900 114 Street). We always walk by the “flagship” Whyte location with intentions to stop, but timing has never worked out.

On this day, the line at SUB merchants was clearly favouring the new Taco Time (which replaced Funky Pickle), but there were still a few customers hovered around the Marco’s order counter. It didn’t take me long to decide on a Cheeseburger ($5.50), while Mack decided to taste the Donair ($6.50). We topped off our dinner with an order of large fries ($4.00).

Our order was complete in just a few minutes, and we quickly found a seat to chow down as we watched the line to the Myer Horowitz grow. My 6oz. burger looked pretty standard – the patty topped with condiments, onions and a pickle. But when I bit into it, it started oozing ketchup – so much so that the ketchup began leaking from the top of the bun. And at $5.50, I would have preferred a chargrilled Harvey’s burger. Mack found his donair under a similar sauce-siege – it was messy and thus difficult to eat. The fries were also a disappointment – bland and under-seasoned, we would have welcomed salt or adornment of any kind.

Cheeseburger

Remnants of Mack’s donair

Fries

Though we are willing to give Marco’s another try (and not judge all outlets by our experience at this one), they will definitely have to step up to the plate next time.

Marco’s Famous
8900 114 Street
(780) 437-8644

Hearty and Unpretentious Fare: Spago

To mark the sad occasion of my 2008 Entertainment Book expiring, we had dinner at Spago (12433 97 Street NW) to utilize one last coupon.

I have been quite curious about the Portuguese restaurant – from what I could gather on the web, it has been around for a while, and is frequented by a series of regulars.

While the restaurant wasn’t at capacity on the Saturday evening that we visited, we were told by the hostess that business was picking up as the holiday season approached. The open room was conducive to the feeling of being in a large, welcoming kitchen accented with rustic wooden beams and large curtains that could be utilized as privacy denominators. The space looked like it hadn’t been touched since the eighties, with the telling stained-glass lamps above the bar and the buffet reminding me of Bonanza and many meals of my childhood, but at the same time, I felt at home in the room.

We were seated at a back corner booth, which, while tucked away for a sense of privacy, may have made it difficult for our server to know we were there. Thankfully for Mack, our wait was made easier with the open-access wifi he was able to connect to (like Oodle Noodle, the unintended benefit of being situated in a residential area). When our waitress finally greeted us for the first time, she apologized, and after that, steadily made up for our initial misgivings.

Admitting my own ignorance for Portuguese fare, I wouldn’t have been able to discern the authenticity of any dish, but the Pan-Seared Halibut ($23) grabbed my attention. Mack opted for the Paella ($23), hoping it would duplicate some of the flavours of Spain, where he first had the dish. I appreciated the upfront nature of the menu, which specified which dishes were not eligible for the coupon discount.

The kitchen was on the ball, as we didn’t have to wait long at all for our food. Steaming plates of were delivered to us, with Mack’s dish being a little more visually appealing than mine. The Mediterranean rub used on my 8oz. halibut was great – just enough kick to flavour but not overwhelm the fish, while the roasted garlic and tomato confit was a sweet accompaniment. Mack thoroughly enjoyed his paella, and the balanced amount of seafood and then some included (mussels, clams, prawns, shrimp, calamari, scallops, chicken chourico and pork), though he wished it didn’t cool down so fast – the rice didn’t quite taste the same cool as it did piping hot.

Pan-Seared Halibut

Paella

I’m really glad Spago decided to advertise in the Entertainment Book; we likely would have never wandered in on our own accord to find a venue great for families offering hearty and unpretentious fare.

Spago
12433 97 Street NW
(780) 479-9328
Monday – Thursday 11am-10pm, Friday 11am-midnight, Saturday, 4pm-midnight, Sunday, 11am-9pm
Appetizers $6-12, Entrees $16-50, Desserts $4.25-8

Lunch with Liane Faulder

When Liane Faulder contacted me for an interview about my blog, I jumped at the chance to meet her. New to the Journal’s Bistro section as of May (and stepping into the arguably mammoth shoes of her predecessor, Judy Schultz), I have been intrigued by her seemingly haphazard direction and how she felt about the continued presence of Schultz, whose pieces during the summer season on the farmer’s market beat dwarfed any of her own contributions.

We scheduled to meet for lunch at Leva Cappucino Bar (11053 – 86 Avenue) on the weekend, my choice to align with Liane’s expressed geographic preference, and our joint penchant to satisfy  foodie pangs.

It was absolutely hopping in Leva around noon on a gorgeous fall day. Families, couples, and groups of friends packed the place, and the line-up stretched all the way down the counter towards the washrooms. Since I’d been there last, the proprietors had put up an “Eat Local First” sign, and included a list of the area suppliers they tap for ingredients. I think this Keep Edmonton Original and Original Fare campaign is great, as it makes eating local more prominent but not overbearing to the average consumer.

Eat Local signage

When Liane arrived, we scooted in line and chatted while we waited patiently for our chance to order. It turned out Liane hadn’t been to Leva for about four years. As my acquaintance with the charming café has been more recent than that, I couldn’t comment on the changes that she noticed in the décor.

Though the Journal was covering the cost of our lunch, I didn’t feel right going “all out”. I ordered a Mushroom Pizza, while she stuck with a more healthy Spinach Salad with blue cheese and pecans.

Mushroom Pizza (cambozola & porcini cream sauce, mushrooms, potatoes, mozzarella)

Throughout our meeting, I never felt (besides her occasional note taking) that I was being interviewed. It was very much a two-way dialogue, and Liane never hesitated to answer any of my questions (and gave me the freedom to write about what we talked about). She is extremely down-to-earth, humble and frank. I’m not sure what of our conversation  she will translate into the Bistro piece, but I hope it will touch on some of the threads of Edmonton’s social media community that we discussed, particularly because Liane will be starting a blog of her own some time in the new year (the awful Journal website is also supposedly getting an overhaul in the not-to-distant future).

I found out that Liane has written for nearly every section of the Journal, with the exception of Sports. She covered the news beat for a while, wrote film reviews for a time, and most recently, contributed features to Sunday Reader. When she returned from an eight-month internship at Ryerson University in Toronto, she was offered the lead in Bistro because at that point, she had proven that she could “pretty much write anything.”

Her love of food begins with the “democratic” nature of it – meaning that everyone, with some effort and instruction, can learn to make a meal. She juggles about four stories at a time, and is reveling in the intrinsic flexibility of a weekly section, as compared with news reporting.

I asked her about the potential sabotage that she may be facing at the paper, as there are weeks when a story from another Canwest affiliate takes up the space above the fold, or a story from Judy Schultz seems to crowd out her articles. Having been with the paper for seventeen years, she said, she has “no ego left.”

We agreed on the potential minefields in the restaurant review world, and she understood my staunch position of not having my meals paid for by a third party, and not reviewing the food once I have met the chef behind it. Liane told me about a recent excursion to a new restaurant, and how the owner fawned all over her, bringing to her table coupons and extra napkins in an effort to extract a good Journal-backed word from her. She also shared her opinion that one of her fellow colleagues should not have published a review about a restaurant he had a personal connection to.

On the topic of favourites, Liane leans toward restaurants that provide “value for money”. In that vein, the Sugar Bowl is her best bet, though she also enjoys the more pricey fare at Culina Millcreek and Hardware Grill. In her opinion, local restaurants don’t do enough to promote themselves, though she acknowledged how busy most independents are simply cooking good food day in and day out.

I can’t recall what our end note was, but I remember feeling elated – a natural feeling after throwing around ideas on a subject I’m passionate about. It was great to meet another local foodie, and I hope once the article is published, other bloggers come out of the woodwork as well.

Culinary Q & A with Bruce Clarke

bruceclarke Occupation: Photographer/Owner of Moments in Digital Ltd.  and Product Manager at Britec Computer Systems

What did you eat today?

Breaded chicken cutlets stuffed with turkey breast and mozzarella cheese, rice, & corn

What do you never eat?

Pickles, Olives and raw Tomatoes. Not sure if it’s a texture thing or just the taste I don’t like.

What is your personal specialty?

I love cooking with garlic but I’m known for my Spinach Dip

What is your favorite kitchen item?

While technically not found in the kitchen, I do consider the BBQ my favorite cooking item.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Bacon wrapped filet mignon with sautéed mushrooms, garlic mashed potatoes, and fresh corn on the cob. Carmel cheesecake for desert.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

For a quick lunch on the go I prefer Subway – it feels somehow like I’m eating healthier. For a night out, we go to the Mikado a lot for Japanese.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

That is a toss up between Bua Thai downtown, The Mikado downtown, New Asian Village, and OPM on the southside. We have several favourites depending upon what we are in the mood for.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

Green curry chicken in Thailand or Hakata style ramen in Fukuoka Japan.

Food Notes

  • The Edmonton Food Security Network is offering its first of five learning events, “designed for front-line service providers who work on food security issues as well as community members”. The upcoming session will take place on Tuesday, November 4 from 9-11am at City of Edmonton – Community Services Circle Square (11808 St. Albert Trail). Direct your RSVPs here.
  • The second branch of Culina has been open for nearly a month in the old Bacon location (6509 112 Avenue, 780-477-2422). Alan Kellogg gave it a thumbs up in the Journal.
  • The site formerly occupied by Sapphire Lounge (10416 82 Avenue) will be transformed “soon” into the Sabezy Cafe.
  • I passed by a new catering/bistro(?) place called d’licious in the High Street area the other day. It is also “coming soon”.
  • Via the Edible Prairie Journal, a link to enRoute’s list of the 10-best Canadian eateries. No Edmonton entries, but Calgary’s Chef’s Table made the cut.
  • Also via the Edible Prairie, I found out that Transcend‘s Chad Moss recently placed fourth at the Canadian Barista Championships. Read more about his experience at their blog.
  • Since being bitten by the entertaining bug, I know I like collecting ideas for off-beat food gatherings. Amber Hildebrandt’s grilled cheese party seems like the perfect combination of spontaneity and ease.
  • Mack sent me an interesting post by Darren Barefoot, where he muses about the idea of seasoning. I don’t know about you, but even if my dish contains “enough” pepper, I can never resist reaching for the tabletop peppercorn grinder anyway…
  • I’ve been meaning to try Safeway’s bakery cupcakes since spying them in the case a few months back. Priced at just $1.50 each, you can’t beat the price. The cake itself was moist and not too sweet, but the latter could not be said for the icing, and I ended up trashing most of it. Decent deal to satisfy one’s sweet tooth though.

 

Banana Chocolate and Vanilla cupcakes

  • I took some time this weekend to drop by the second Sobeys Urban Fresh in the Garneau neighbourhood (8225 – 112 Street). It’s definitely not as nice as the flagship store, as the low ceiling and relative lack of windows contribute to its more bunker-like feel. There is a huge prepared food aisle with not only ready-to-heat items, but even packaged food that has already been cooked (seriously, they were selling pre-cooked steak in the cooler). The bakery had a few boxes of vegan cupcakes (4 for $8), likely in an attempt to try and appeal to some of the organic shoppers that may have perused Organic Roots in the past. The Bistro immediately attracted me with their bank of windows and bright design, and I could see students being drawn in with their menu of pizzas, burgers, and pub fare.

 

Prepared food aisle

 

Bistro

More Than Just Cocktails: Devlin’s

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

Edmonton’s third tweetup, an event for local Twitter users to get together in person, was held on Thursday evening. The tweetups aren’t terribly hard to organize, all I need to do is pick a date, time and location. I asked Sharon to help me choose the venue this time, and she suggested Devlin’s Cocktail Lounge (10507 82 Avenue). I had enjoyed our visit in August, and agreed that it would be a good choice. I was keen to try the new fall menu that Sharon had written about in her Vue Weekly article. I called a couple of weeks in advance to ensure they could accommodate a group of 15 to 30 people, and they assured me that wouldn’t be a problem. A few days before the event, they called me back to confirm, which I thought was a nice touch.

When I arrived at the restaurant just before 6pm, I found it locked. After a moment of panic, I peered through the window and caught the attention of Executive Chef Sebastian Lysz who came to unlock the door for me. Fortunately, that was the only hiccup of the evening! My fellow Twitterers started streaming in, and soon we filled up the entire right side of the restaurant. We had around 25 people come and go by the time the evening was finished, and although not everyone ordered food, Sebastian was kept sufficiently busy in the kitchen.

Mack & Sharon
Mack & Sharon, photo courtesy Bruce Clarke

I was occupied chatting with people, so I was more than happy to let Sharon order for me. The first dish that arrived was the Wild Mushroom & Chicken flatbread ($9). Though it didn’t look incredibly appetizing being almost completely devoid of color, it tasted very good. The chicken (from a local producer in Ardrossan) was moist and the bread itself was nicely warm and chewy. I found the mushrooms flavorful, but not overpowering.

Flat bread

The second dish we ordered was also the one I was most looking forward to: the Surf & Turf ($15). Reminiscent of the sliders in its presentation, the dish was definitely easy on the eyes. Unfortunately the portion size was also similar to the sliders, and I found myself wanting more when the plate was empty. The tri-tip steak from Spring Creek Ranch was absolutely delicious, and I enjoyed the roasted potatoes too (though Sharon didn’t). We both agreed that the prawns were fairly average.

Surf and Turf

Usually we’re too full after dinner to have dessert, but that wasn’t a problem thanks to the small size of the dishes at Devlin’s. We decided to give the Dessert Sampler ($15) a try, as it sounded more interesting than the Creme Brulee. Though I couldn’t have the Peanut Butter Bombe (due to my mild peanut allergy), I was able to try the other items. I liked the warm Fruit Crumble in an over-sized shot glass, but my favorite was easily the Bacardi Rum Pumpkin Pie. I love both rum and pumpkin pie, so it was a match made in heaven for me! The Chai Voyant Nitro Ice Cream (with “nutella” powder) was interesting, but it didn’t evoke the familiar flavor of chai.

Dessert Platter

We received great service all night, and everyone seemed to enjoy the food and ambience. A number of people remarked that they were pleasantly surprised with the lounge, and said they’d probably be back. Devlin’s is not the place to go if you’re starving (or feeling the pinch in your wallet), but if all you’re looking for is something tasty to go along with conversation, I can safely say it’s a great choice for small and large groups alike.

The key thing to know about Twitter is that entries are restricted to 140 characters. With that in mind, here’s my mini-review of Devlin’s:

More than just a cocktail lounge, Devlin’s has unique, tasty food and adds something special to Whyte Avenue. Just don’t arrive too hungry!

Devlin’s Cocktail Lounge
10507 82 Avenue
(780) 437-7489

Calgary Conference Getaway

I was fortunate to attend a conference for work in Calgary this past week at the Radisson Hotel Calgary Airport (2120 16 Avenue NE).

Welcoming pumpkins created by hotel staff

Having never stayed at a Radisson before, this was the first time I have ever encountered a “Sleep Number” bed. I was able to choose the firmness of my mattress with the touch of a button, even though the mechanics that operated the side I chose to sleep on didn’t function properly – I was forever stuck at a “40”. Fun to experiment with, however!

Sleep Number control

Unlike some seminars and conferences I have attended in the past, the Radisson was great with keeping buffet supplies well-stocked. There was never an instance where I found myself peering into an empty serving vessel.

Fruit kabobs

Lunches were all of the build-your-own variety – sandwiches the first day, soft tacos the next, and souvlaki the last. It was unfortunate that chicken was a part of each meal; I know a few of my coworkers were looking for more variety by the end of our stay.

Lunch #2 (I also was hoping for a different kind of salad by Thursday as well – the wild greens and raspberry vinaigrette was over done)

Our only provided dinner consisted of chicken with an apricot and hazelnut glaze, mushroom and asparagus risotto, and a variety of cold salads. The chicken was actually quite well-done, moist and tender, unlike the same meat served at lunch.

My dinner plate

My workmates and I had to fend for ourselves one night, and having asked the hotel staff for a “more local” recommendation than Earls, we were directed to Cattle Baron (3340 – 26 Street NE). Who knew, at 7pm on a random Tuesday that the wait for a party of 9 would be an hour and a half? We ended up at a nearby Joey Tomatoes (3026 23rd Street NE), where the wait for our group (which agreed to be split into two parties) was still forty-five minutes. I had no idea the evening dining market was so ravenous in Calgary.

I had a great time at the conference overall, and I’m sure a large part of that had to do with the fact that we were well-fed throughout. Bravo, Radisson staff!

Polished but Pricey: Origin India

After visiting the new Old Strathcona office of Lift Interactive (where we won the cutest his and hers t-shirts), Mack and I walked over to Origin India (10511 82 Avenue), the new upscale Maurya Palace outpost. I originally reported about the “coming soon” status of Origin India back in April, and seven months later, it finally opened, apparently because they had to get up to code.

At any rate, we walked past the taped-up paper menu outside, through the doors, and were immediately transported into a world away from the hustle and bustle of Whyte. To the right of the entrance was what looked like a take-out counter, but for the moment was sparkling new and unused. We walked down a few stairs into a dimly lit room and joined the three other parties already seated.

Dominated by brown and reds, the space was warm but chic. Dark leather banquets lined both walls, and above the seats was a wooden, compartmentalized wine shelf that spanned the same length. The buffet section and bar was situated at the back of the room, and without a divide of any kind, the room felt open and welcoming. Knowing that the former occupant of this space was a dollar store, I really have to commend the owners for the absolute transformation they have overseen – I can see how additional construction time would have been necessary.

Interior

At the beginning of our visit, the music veered towards the annoying tinkering favoured at Khazana, but thankfully by the end of the night, had switched to an upbeat, Bollywood techno that in my opinion suited the space and the location better.

We were told the buffet was available, but were also provided with menus in case we decided to go the a la carte route. At $19.95 per person, the buffet wasn’t cheap, but we figured it was the best way to sample this new establishment’s fare.

The diamond-shaped plates were an interesting choice, and to some extent, the fact that there was a wide border around it made it easier to grip while we travelled the buffet line. I was disappointed to find, however, that there were only eight hot entrees (plus rice, salad and dessert) to choose from. Along with quality, I figured $20 should also buy variety.

Buffet line-up

We piled our plates high with a sample of everything, and returned to our table where a basket of fresh naan was waiting. The naan was more crisp and not as “doughy” as others I have tried, but the made-to-order factor was a real plus. My favourite dish was the lamb curry – tender, flavourful  and just spicy enough, it was a departure from my usual butter chicken preference. Mack, however, enjoyed his serving of butter chicken, though his only complaint was his need to cut the chicken into more manageable, one-bite sizes (he should have also asked for a shovel in place of a fork, heh).


Our plates (they were almost identical)

The service was fabulous throughout – our waiter checked in with us just often enough to make us feel taken care of without intruding. While I am not sure I will be back (at least not for the pricey buffet), along with Devlin’s next door, I really am starting to see the shift in Old Strathcona businesses from those who target the partying set to those that primarily serve working professionals.

Origin India
10511 82 Avenue
(780) 436-0558
Sunday to Thursday 11:30am-11pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30am-2am

Food Notes

  • If you’re in the downtown area at lunch hour on Friday, be sure to check out the Chili Cook-off at Scotia Place. Sample chili and check out the rodeo atmosphere!
  • The Hat opened last week (why restaurants don’t get their websites together prior to the launch is beyond me). Here’s a short primer article about it in the Journal – The Hat’s focus is on burgers.
  • Christopher Thrall wrote a great piece about the family behind New Asian Village this week.
  • I saw a news story recently about Health Fare (10865 23 Avenue), a restaurant that bills itself as a ‘healthy fast food’ outlet. They apparently have a computer that will help you determine the appropriate number of calories to consume per meal, and entrees with total caloric content listed. A little too much work for me, but might be interesting to try.
  • A quick decision at the Kingsway Garden Mall food court yielded me a plate of Butter Chicken from Badass Jack’s. There was a funny colour to the sauce (almost salmon), but had the chicken been even a little bit moist, I would have forgiven the aesthetics of the dish.

 

Badass Jack’s Butter Chicken

  • I had a Panino Veneto at the City Centre location of Caffe Sorrentino last week. It was smokin’ hot, with a generous amount of melted cheese, but the brie pretty much overtook any turkey and cranberry mayo flavours that may have been present.

 

Panino Veneto (the sandwich really wasn’t green…the overhead fluorescent lights makes it appear so)

  • I tried Starbucks’ Perfect Oatmeal the other day (with a coupon), and it reminded me how much I dislike oatmeal (nothing against the Starbucks’ version). The packaging also seemed excessive – a plastic-wrapped spoon, plastic-encased raisins, a packet of brown sugar, and of course, the container of oatmeal itself.

 

Perfect Oatmeal

Lunch Time Pressure: Viphalay

I’d heard much ado about Viphalay (10724 95 Street NW), from a friend, a newspaper and a chef. Dickson and I agreed on this new-ish Thai and Laotian restaurant for a lunch meet-up last week so I was finally able to experience it firsthand.

With bars on the windows, I really didn’t feel welcome approaching the eatery. Next to a school, with a tiny parking lot shared with a handful of other businesses, the location left much to be desired. But walking into the space, I was immersed in a much different feeling. The interior was modern and elegant – red walls accented the bar at the rear of the restaurant; the inset ceiling, lined with bold red and black paint, brought an unexpected jolt of vibrancy to the mostly white dining area; and lastly, the delicate spotlights that shone on the periphery of the room created a subtle but classy mood.

Interior

The restaurant was less than half full when we walked in just after 12:30pm. We were asked if we had a reservation, and when we responded that we didn’t, were promptly seated anyway at a table along one wall. The place setting included a wine glass, which seemed unnecessarily fancy, but then again, so long as the drinking vessel is clean, I shouldn’t complain.

We took some time to peruse the menu, and despite being momentarily tempted to order the lunch special (which seemed the most economical way to sample their fare), I ended up with my benchmark dish of Pad Thai ($12.99). Dickson opted for the Tamarind Chicken ($11.99) and a side of coconut rice ($2.99/bowl).

I would gather that for most on a noon hour jaunt, time is of the essence. Of course, not choosing a “15 minute guaranteed express lunch” from Kelsey’s or the like means that I was, on some level, making a conscious choice to gamble with an unknown time factor. At the same time, as the restaurant was seated with half of its maximum capacity, Dickson and I expected some expediency with our meal.

It took a good thirty-five minutes to deliver our food, leaving us with about fifteen minutes to eat. I want to press that our waitress was great throughout our meal – attentive and polite to the point of pushing formal (presenting our bill with two hands and a bowed head made me a little uncomfortable), but she couldn’t alleviate the time stress we felt because of the slow kitchen.

As for the food – we thought it was average. The pad thai was more sweet than spicy, and the number of shrimp included were a paltry three – I would choose the same dish at Bua Thai or Syphay any day. Dickson’s tamarind chicken was all right, but with a flavour that was mildly sweet but not wholly distinct, neither of us would recommend it as a standout entrée.

Pad Thai

Tamarind Chicken

I may visit Viphalay again, perhaps for supper or for a weekend lunch date, but I surely won’t be back when an acute awareness of time will impede my enjoyment of the meal.

Viphalay
10724 95 Street NW
(780) 423-3213
Tuesday – Sunday, lunch 11am-2pm, dinner 5-9pm, closed Mondays