Category: food

Not my Slice of Pizza: Santo’s Pizza and Steak

Our work team was fortunate enough to be treated to lunch this week at Little Italy’s Santo’s Pizza & Steak (10821 95 Street NW). It seems Santo’s was the designated backup, as Sorrentino’s couldn’t accommodate our group of twelve. At any rate, I enjoy any opportunity to try a restaurant off-the-beaten path, particularly one I likely would have never stumbled upon on my own accord.

Just before noon, the lounge we passed by on our way to the dining room was busy serving a few patrons who definitely seemed to be regulars. The dining room itself was quite small; our party literally took up half of the space. A short while later, another large party was seated directly behind us. It turned out to be a rather unfortunate placement for the waitress – more than a few coats were knocked off chairs as a result, and required her to do quite a bit of maneuvering to get through the tight space between. She did an admirable job overall of catering to refill requests despite this inconvenience, particularly as she was the lone staff member on the floor.

The menu seemed to focus on pizzas and pastas, though to be fair, a number of sandwiches and entrees also occupied some real estate. The Meat Lovers pizza ($12.65) with beef, ham, pepperoni, salami and sausage ended up winning my order, mostly because I just had pasta for dinner the night prior.

Though not quick, I would give the kitchen credit for handling our meals in a fairly efficient manner. I would imagine the delay in the delivery of some dishes was handicapped more by the fact that there was just one waitress available.

For the record, the 12 inch pizza was big enough to provide me with lunch for an additional two days. However, as quality wins over quantity most times, I have to say I was disappointed with the product. There was a tad too much tomato base, resulting in a tangy taste that didn’t complement the salty slices of meat. The crust was also sub-par – it retained its crunch, but wasn’t anything special. Having munched my way through many a pizza, I think I like my crust in one of two ways – thin and chewy, a la Famoso, or just full-on greasy, as served at Pizza Hut. The varying medium ground just doesn’t appeal to me.

 

Meat Lovers Pizza

On a side note – while I didn’t get to try the cappuccino first hand, a workmate said it was the best she’d ever had. Perhaps that would be worth a return trip.

While a work lunch is a poor way to judge a restaurant, at least I know Santo’s doesn’t meet my pizza standard.

Santo’s Pizza & Steak
10821 95 Street NW
(780) 421-1507

Food Notes

  • I’m always happy when restaurant websites actually have content on them. So much so that it’s definitely something to note – welcome, Silk Hat, to the blogosphere!
  • The Journal reviewed the random Rice Bowl Express (8926 149 Street) on the weekend.
  • There was recent chatter on Chowhound about the whether or not the west end Julio’s Barrios has closed. Based on their website, and the listed locations, it looks like it is.
  • Via Loosen Your Belt and Eat Around Edmonton, I learned that the space that was formerly Cafe Select on the southside will become a second Original Joe’s outpost.
  • On the topic of blogs, I’ve noticed that the last few local food blogs that have come up are authored by duos. I wonder if this is a trend on the writing side of things – to offer multiple perspectives while splitting a time-consuming task.
  • Sobeys is pushing consumers to think about having lobster in place of turkey at Christmas this year. I have to say, seafood just doesn’t convey the holidays to me as much as poultry.
  • I’m pretty hard on most chain restaurants (particularly those selling the “upscale casual” idea), but some do escape my wrath. Milestones (1708 99 Street), for example, does a decent brunch, which I have written about in the past. Mack and I took his Grandma there prior to a movie this weekend. The menu has changed slightly since I had been there before, but the Prime Rib Hash ($12.95) looked good to me: slow roasted and thinly sliced prime rib tossed with crispy potatoes, bell peppers, sweet onion, roasted corn in our specialty hash seasoning, then topped with two poached eggs, real hollandaise, roma tomatoes and grilled herb toast. While it was all right, I probably should have gone with the no-fail Strawberry French Toast, which Mack’s Grandma ordered, as the kitchen was light on the prime rib, and the sauce flavouring the tomatoes was much too sweet.

 

Prime Rib Hash – so much food!

 

Strawberry French Toast

Grilled Shrimp California Benedict

  • Mack and I also stopped by the Vue Weekly Christmas party on Saturday, where we met Hanne and Carlo from Supper In Stereo (Hanne is also a fellow writer in the Dish section). It’s always lovely to finally meet people you’ve been reading online for some time.

 

The spread (half eaten) at Vue’s shindig

Nothing Out of the Ordinary: Hoa An

There seem to be a never-ending stream of restaurants in Chinatown that arise out of nowhere, begging to be tried. Hoa An (9653 107 Avenue) was such a place, and I chose it for a weekday lunch destination.

It turned out Dickson had already been there, but didn’t know it until we were right in front of the restaurant. Next to the popular grocer Lucky 97, it seemed to blend in with the surroundings of the hub, with all traffic in the area seemingly drawn to the always bustling parking lot in front of the store.

At any rate, walking into the restaurant, we were immediately directed by someone to a table along one wall. Hoa An was moderately busy, with more than a handful of parties either already in the midst of their food, or waiting patiently for their orders to arrive. The overwhelmingly pink interior was an interesting color scheme, but overall, I couldn’t complain much about the well-kept dining area.

The menu, which included stir-fried dishes and a variety of noodle and vermicelli bowls, didn’t highlight anything out of the ordinary, though I likely wouldn’t have considered any dishes other than pho that afternoon anyway. I zeroed in on #35, with well-done flank ($7.35), while Dickson opted for the more interesting rare steak, well-done flank, brisket and tripe ($7.35).

In a lightning quick fashion similar to Pho Hoa and Pho Tau Bay, our orders were delivered after a short five minute wait. We both commented that the portion size seemed smaller than those served at other restaurants (notably, Pagolac), and that the broth wasn’t as hot as we would have liked. That said, I’m starting to think that trying to sway me from my current pho favourites would be next to impossible. Even though I would never be able to accurately identify, in a blind taste test, the restaurant origin of a bowl of pho, unless a serving knocks my socks off (in a good way), I doubt any new places I experiment with will replace my love of Pagolac and Hoang Long. The memories in this case of the times and meals I have had at those restaurants ultimately take precedent over the minute quality differences that may be noted in the food.

Pho with well-done flank

Pho with rare steak, well-done flank, brisket and tripe

So though Hoa An is reasonably priced and fast, I hesitate to say I’ll be back often. Hoang Long offers a closer stop from work, and the southside Pagolac a comfortably familiar setting.

Hoa An
9653 107 Avenue
(780) 425-6021

Holiday Indulgence: Unheardof

It was a little amusing to me that I hadn’t heard much about Unheardof (9602 82 Avenue), an upscale restaurant on the southside. The menu stated that it has been around for nearly thirty years, but to me, save for passing it travelling on Whyte Avenue, it may as well have been an empty storefront. I knew, however, after digging around the website that a meal at Unheardof wouldn’t be an inexpensive one, so when Mack told me we would be going there for his company’s Christmas celebration, I was happy that I would be able to give it a try on someone else’s dime.

We snagged a parking spot on the street, and headed inside. The building must have once been a house, and as a converted restaurant, it reminded me a bit of Manor Cafe and Violino. We were greeted by someone immediately, who took us to the second floor dining area. I was a little sad that we wouldn’t be seated on the main floor, as the warmth of the incandescent lights, coupled with lovely wreaths and other decorations made it a festive and comfortable room. Upstairs, though we were offered a table in a more private space shared with just two other parties, lit by an overhead fluorescent light, the room had a cooler feel to it.

Our dining area

When everyone had arrived, we took our time with the menu. Entrees were all priced at a standard $45, while starters and desserts were left without a corresponding price. The menu detailed the restaurant’s new Table d’Hote approach, where additional courses could be added to the base entree price – 2 courses total cost $60, 3 courses $70 and 4 courses $80. Feeling fairly indulgent, we all opted for at least three courses each – an appetizer, main, and dessert.

Mack went straight for the Sea Scallops (seared giant sea scallops seasoned with cumin and coarse salt served on a green lentil ragout with paprika oil and ragout), while I couldn’t resist the sound of Wild Mushroom Risotto (mushroom stock arborio risotto with Lobster and chanterelle mushrooms, fresh thyme, gruyere and mascarpone cheeses, sea beans). For mains, we both selected the Muntok Beef Tenderloin.

Mack’s coworkers were extremely accommodating of our typical dining routine, and very generously let us photograph (and with Greg, even sample) all of their dishes. We have them to thank for the extensive gallery of dishes to follow.

Between the wine and the conversation, the evening flowed smoothly. Service wasn’t notable, but was seamless. The first food item we received were complimentary “tapas”, though I considered it more of an amuse bouche. The pumpkin seed and cheddar pork pate wasn’t to my liking or Mack’s, though Greg quite enjoyed the sample (and Alina’s as well). The grainy, salty paste just reinforced what we had first expressed at Characters after having their foie gras.

Pork pate

Our appetizers arrived in a reasonable amount of time, all portioned so the majority of diners would be able to finish three whole courses. I took a risk with the risotto, particularly because my last experience with the dish at Blink in Calgary left much to be desired, but I’m glad I did. Their version is probably the best I have ever had – cooked to creamy perfection, with a good mushroom-to-rice ratio. I’m sure I could have eaten more, but with that taster size, I would consider coming back again just for the risotto. Mack thought his scallops were all right, but said the ones he had at the Wildflower Grill were better.

Wild Mushroom Risotto

Sea Scallops

After a lovely sorbet palate cleanser, our entrees arrived. The presentations weren’t particularly artful, bit the kitchen did their best to accent dull-colored meats with some vibrant produce. Our sides were hidden underneath the steak, a mix of roasted onions, sauteed mushrooms, and a crunchy potato pancake. The tenderloin had been crusted with peppercorns, adding a bit of spice to an otherwise fairly conventional dish. It is worth mentioning that both of our steaks were perfectly cooked – Mack’s was a touch more done as he had requested medium versus my medium rare.

Muntok Beef Tenderloin

Game Trio

Seafood Aqua Pazza

Duck and Quail

Herbed Loin and Lamb

Dessert for me was their Creme Brulee, which the server said was flavoured with cinnamon and rum that day. Mack opted for the Egg Nog Pie (what else?), while Mike ordered the lone White Chocolate Cranberry Cheesecake and Alina the only Turtle Tart. While I couldn’t taste the supposed flavour in my creme brulee, the fruit garnish and hidden inside the custard added some nice freshness to the dish. Mack actually didn’t enjoy the pie – the pecan crust was overpowering, and the filling didn’t live up to the name at all.

Creme Brulee

Egg Nog Pie

White Chocolate Cranberry Cheesecake

Turtle Tart

Thanks again to Questionmark for dinner! The only downside to being spoiled, however, is that any subsequent meals there will seem doubly expensive. So while Unheardof left a good first impression, I’m not sure it is worth the price of admission – I’d opt for the Red Ox Inn instead, which offers food of similar quality at a much lower rate.

Unheardof
9602 82 Avenue
(780) 432-0480
Dinner only, Tuesday to Sunday from 5:3opm

Food Notes

  • Mark your calendars: Fork Fest (Original Fare‘s version of “dine out week”) is scheduled for January 19-22 and 26-29.
  • The Journal reported that Le Table de Renoir is temporarily closed because the owner is going through a divorce. It should be back up and running in January.
  • Also in the Journal, a positive review for Bistecca, the new Sorrentino-run steakhouse.
  • The 12-year old “food critic” from New York I mentioned two weeks ago in my Food Notes will be even more famous – Paramount Pictures has acquired the rights to his story to be adapted into a movie or a television show.
  • How’s this for the intersection of food and politics: December 3 was supposed to be declared “Yelp Day” in San Francisco, in honor of the popular website, but once the Mayor’s office got wind that negative reviews of businesses that supported Proposition 8 had been taken down, the proclamation was pulled.
  • I was on the look out for this year’s incarnation of Starbucks’ “It’s Red Again” campaign, but it turns out the coffee company has decided to go the charitable route this year, partnering with the now well-known (RED) campaign: “For every purchase of a (STARBUCKS)RED EXCLUSIVE beverage – Peppermint Mocha Twist, Gingersnap Latte and Espresso Truffle – at participating stores in the U.S. and Canada, Starbucks will contribute five cents to the Global Fund to invest in AIDS programs in Africa.”

 

The (Starbucks)RED sleeve

  • May and I had a bite to eat at Ga Ya, prior to a show at the Timms Centre last week. I had been meaning to return at some point to try something other than the Bee Bim Bob (which I wrote about before), and the Chicken Teriyaki ($10.95) hit the spot. The meat was nicely flavoured with a house marinade sauce, and there was a fairly generous amount included.

 

Chicken Teriyaki

  • Needing a fast dinner option in South Common before checking out the new Future Shop, Mack and I headed to Ikea, past all of the tempting housewares and seasonal items and up to the cafeteria. I’ve written about my love for their cheap food before, but I thought it was worth noting that their quiche is pretty darn good as well. Served with a bowl of soup (or salad), it’s a meal that won’t break the bank at $4.99.

 

Vegetable Quiche with Mushroom Soup (orange juice extra)

Worth the Splurge: Wildflower Grill

I had mentioned my exquisite meal at Wildflower Grill (10009 107 Street) so many times to Mack in the last year that he was eager to give it a whirl of his own at the next opportunity. We finally made time on Thursday to go and see if the standard of excellence outlived the new car smell.

 

Wildflower interior

The restaurant served just four other tables for the duration of our visit, so for that reason (and the basic principle of welcoming), we found it surprising that the hostess greeted us with an abrupt “Do you have a reservation?” as soon as we walked through the door. Granted, we could have simply surprised her, but a “How are you?” would have been an acceptable preface.

At any rate, we were shown to a table by the window, one of my favourite places to sit in any restaurant. Our server promptly came to take our drink order, and throughout the evening, was attentive without being overbearing – I was happy to see that their service had not declined in quality since my inaugural visit.

The menu appeared to be unchanged, which was fine with me, as I had intentions to sample a dish free of fruits de mer this time around. To start, Mack couldn’t resist the temptation of Coconut Buttered Tiger Prawns ($15), and decided to continue on the seafood theme with Pan-Roasted Sockeye Salmon Medallions ($31) as his entrée. I was decidedly in the land corner that day, and the Herb-Crusted Venison Medallions ($38) struck my fancy.

As expected, our server teased our palate with an amuse bouche, of stewed figs this time. I didn’t care much for the cream cheese finish, but I still adored the complimentary sample from the chef. Next was the included treat I was looking most forward to – brioche bread served with two kinds of butter. It was just as good as I remembered – warm from the oven, crisp on the outside, but soft and chewy on the inside. Heavenly.

 

Amuse bouche

Brioche bread service

We weren’t halfway through our bread, however, when our appetizer appeared. Mack was immediately distracted by the sight of shrimp and scallops, and I was less than interested. The two accompanying sauces provided a color pop to the dish, but were also quite tasty – Mack preferred the lime green chili sauce, while I liked the bite of the red chili sauce. The potato crown which encased the seafood tower was a nice edible addition as well.

Coconut Buttered Tiger Prawns

Anticipating entrees that would arrive prior to completing our appetizer, we finished the plate in no time. To our relief, there was a lengthened pause from the kitchen, and we waited comfortably, sipping our drinks and enjoyed the relaxed ambiance of a quiet dining room.

Our entrees were a canvas to behold. A tiny ceramic pot (adhered to the square plate with the help of mashed potato) supplied a miniature dish within a dish, while the rest of the sides painted a lovely array of colors, accenting the bold, deep pink of the venison medallions which were drenched in a ruby sauce. Mack’s salmon medallions were also heightened visually with beautiful vegetables, though the fish and shrimp were already so vibrant in color that they didn’t need much in the way of accents.

This was my first experience with game, and I wasn’t sure what to expect. Though the texture was different than beef or bison, I’m not sure I would be able to identify the meat as “game” in a blind taste test. The crust and the huckleberry compote were great accompaniments, so I have no complaints on preparation or presentation, but as the dish was served with an oxtail ragout, it was difficult not to prefer the softened shards of braised meat served in a lovely broth. Mack’s lobster and crab-stuffed salmon medallions were the closest he’d probably get to recreating Homer Simpson’s “lobster stuffed with tacos” request, and he enjoyed them thoroughly. He didn’t really think there was a need for the butternut squash gnocchi, however, which didn’t seem to relate to the other parts of the dish.

Herb-crusted Venison Medallions

Pan-Roasted Sockeye Salmon Medallions

We were both stuffed by the end of our mains, and opted not to order dessert. Between the amuse bouche, bread course, and complimentary chocolate they provided prior to handing us our bill, we felt that the diner’s experience was a top priority for staff. It was definitely not an inexpensive meal, but for a special occasion, the Wildflower Grill is worth the splurge.

Wildflower Grill
10009 107 Street
(780) 990-1938
Lunch: Monday – Friday 11am-2pm; Dinner: Sunday – Thursday 5-9pm, Friday – Saturday 5-10pm; Brunch: Sunday 11am-2pm
Appetizers $10-22, Entrees $26-49, Desserts $12

Refined for Expansion: Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria

With the number of restaurants I have yet to try in Edmonton, it’s a wonder I ever make it back to the establishments that I think are deserving of a return visit. So it sometimes helps to have a sweetener. In Famoso’s case, it was in the form of a $50 certificate I bid for in an online auction. Having paid just $32 for the certificate, I thought it was quite the steal.

After a long day at work, Mack and I took the bus to Famoso (11750 Jasper Avenue), and on the way back, intended on walking off the glut of calories we would consume over the course of the evening. We walked in, and were both taken by how busy it was on a random weekday – there was just one table remaining, which we snagged immediately.

While not much had physically changed inside the restaurant, the vibe and the ambiance showcased a more refined Famoso ready to woo patrons from a higher age and income bracket. Gone were the college-esque instructional photos demonstrating how to fold and eat their thin-crust pizzas, as were the deli-style microphone announcements for order pickups. In their place were sleek, professionally photographed shots of sophisticated women enjoying a meal, and table service provided by two buspersons. Famoso had also added a reserve wine list to their menu, inviting patrons to linger and stay on to finish an accompanying bottle of wine with their pizza – a shift from our early comparison to an eat-and-go sandwich joint. Wednesdays now saw a weekly wine tasting event from 6-8:30pm, and the past few months have blossomed with a promotion they call “Famoso’s next Top Chef”. Referencing the popular reality television show, customers can submit their idea for a Neopolitan-style pizza for a chance to have their creation served as the pizza of the month at the restaurant.

The cheery and energetic staff person who took our order said that business has been swift for about a year – probably just picking up prior to our last visit. She was exceptionally helpful and enthusiastic about her work, and was someone Famoso should definitely reward – servers like her are an asset to an organization. At any rate, we ordered (at the counter – that much hadn’t changed), deciding upon the Margherita Pizza, with cherry tomatoes ($11.50) and the Sweet BBQ Chicken ($14), a pizza with a smoked BBQ sauce, roasted chicken, gouda, tomatoes, red onion and cilantro.

We sat down (by this time, a booth had opened up, meaning that there would be at least some light cast on our table), and a few minutes later, our pizzas were brought directly to us. After tasting a slice of Mack’s pizza, I realized I should have probably be more adventurous and chosen something a little off the beaten path. I loved the smoky, tangy sauce, which reminded me very much of the base used on Panago’s Tropical Hawaiian pizza. The Margherita wasn’t bad though – between the chewy, soft dough, and the lovely melted circles of fresh mozzarella, I was definitely enjoying my second Famoso experience.

Margherita Pizza

Sweet BBQ Chicken

Though we were both pretty stuffed from our individual pizzas, I pressed on and ordered a Nutella Pizza ($7). The chocolate calzone-like dessert was the real reason behind my second trip, as it sounded intriguing when I saw it on the menu the first time around. After ordering it at the counter, we sat back and waited. When the plate was delivered, a table nearby looked on with jealous eyes – the prepared calzone had been cut up into easy-to-eat slices, drizzled with chocolate sauce, and finished with whipped cream. The combination of warm, chewy dough and nutella was a good one, but by the time we had each consumed a few slices, we were wishing for an additional accent ingredient like bananas or strawberries. The platter was definitely meant to be shared by more than just two.

Nutella Pizza

My first visit to Famoso led me to believe that it was aligned with producing pizza for the fast food market, but after my most recent experience, I’d recommend it for a casual business lunch, a date, or a place to catch up with friends. I credit the owners with developing the brand into one I can see continually expanding in the Edmonton restaurant scene.

Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria
11750 Jasper Avenue (another location opening in Terwilligar at 142 Street & 23 Avenue in January)
(780) 732-0700
Appetizers $5-12, Entrees $10-14, Desserts $1.50-7

Food Notes

  • A profile I wrote about Cindy Lazarenko of Culina Highlands hit the stands on Thursday. I was remiss with the space limitations for that article in particular, because I felt I had so much more I could write. So here’s a quote I would have shared if I had more room: “You watch these Food Network [shows and] it doesn’t have to be like that – oh Rachel Ray makes these half hour dinners– [but] did you see the list of ingredients? Do you have that much money? It would cost so much money to make all these different things. It really just has to be simple – roasted chicken. Have chicken and vegetables and potatoes. And then the next day you can have a chicken quesadilla with the leftover chicken. Keep it simple. We don’t have to eat every ethnic food out there for dinner every night. We just really need to eat basic food. It doesn’t have to be elaborate. To me it’s not that difficult to just cook.”
  • See Magazine reviewed the new Kai Asian Grill last week (I’m hoping they fix the alignment of the article soon; it looks like they just debuted a new website), and Allan Kellogg put the Silk Hat to the test in the Journal.
  • I passed by a new Good Earth Cafe in the government district (12056 Jasper Avenue) the other day. It looked really nice from the outside at least.
  • Another gadget very few would have room for in their kitchen: a microwave s’mores maker.
  • A story I first saw on CNN, but worth reading about – a farm couple opened their farm up to anyone who wanted to pick their leftover vegetables, and 40,000 people showed up.
  • Also a sort of “harvest”, and only Andrea could send this to me – a cookbook full of recipes where human semen is an ingredient.

The Cooking Chronicles: Vegetable Tortellini Bowl

Darn, another recipe that was great to eat but I can’t locate on the internet…

On a day when I was feeling under the weather and craving something warm with vegetables, I turned to a trusty Company’s Coming cookbook for Vegetable Tortellini soup. I figured the filled pasta would give the soup that extra filler, and if nothing else, the tricolore tortellini provided some nice color.

Instead of diced tomatoes, I used a can of whole tomatoes, which, by the time we were ready to eat the soup, lent the chicken stock a lovely red hue. Along with the tomatoes, I threw in the recommended carrot, zucchini, bell pepper, and substituted celery for spinach, and the recipe turned out wonderfully. I remember Jane saying that she was in a “soup phase” at one point – if all soups are this easy and tasty to boot, I may be in one soon too.

Vegetable Tortellini Bowl

Veggie Donair World Premiere

After interviewing Eric Ng, the mastermind behind the World Premiere of the Veggie Donair for a Vue article, I was more curious than ever about the event. I bought an advance ticket at Listen Records, and headed for the Hydeaway (10209 100 Ave) on Wednesday evening.

While I’m not sure what the most appropriate venue for a world premiere of a vegetarian food item would be, the very casual, pub-like space of the Hydeaway suited Eric’s “do it yourself” mentality, I thought. Shortly after 7pm (the event’s start time as listed on the tickets), employees were still shifting around furniture and setting up the stage, as attendees began trickling in.

Around 7:30pm, Leif Oleson-Cormack (an old friend of mine from high school), did his best to entertain the hungry crowd, as Eric headed to the kitchen to begin assembling the donairs. Leif’s set was about 20 minutes in length, after which we got up from the table to wait in a line that snaked halfway around the space.

By this point, I realized I should have had something to eat prior to the event, as the wait was painful. For a food-focused event, an hour and a half to get to the “meat”, so to speak, was unacceptable. At the same time, I had to feel for Eric and the rest of his helpers – a peek inside the kitchen saw four busy hands, and the one waitress had trouble delivering orders to a shifting crowd of patrons. A number system would have helped, but it seemed organization wasn’t the evening’s strong point.

As for the donair itself – while I am not the best judge of donairs (I can’t remember the last time I had one), I liked the crispy, toasted pita shell, and the combination of the tomatoes, onions, sauce, and meat replacement. The consensus at our table, however, was that we wished that the gluten/tofu slab had been sliced a little thinner – it was a tad too thick served as it was (and with a chewy texture very similar to some of the vegan dishes I had at Padmanadi). I did attempt to take a few photos, but as our table and the surrounding area had no overhead lights, the pictures turned out much too blurry to post, unfortunately.

Eric said the turnout of just over 60 was perfect, as he ended up running out of supplies. Overall, it was a fun night and an interesting experience – I hope more food item world premieres are in Edmonton’s future!