Category: food

Brunch with Gassy Jack: Chill Winston

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

My friend Megan and I were without our trip planner extraordinaire (Sharon) for our trip to Vancouver a few weeks ago, so we didn’t have a plan for where to go or what to eat. After much indecision on Sunday morning, we eventually hopped on the bus from UBC and made our way toward Gastown. We wandered around for a bit and eventually decided on Chill Winston for brunch. I had walked past it on previous trips to the area, but had never ventured inside.

chill winstonchill winston

We quickly scanned the menu and decided to stay. The interior definitely fit the description of a “restaurant lounge”. I loved the big, comfy chairs and the nice big windows (you can see the statue of Gassy Jack just across the street). Had Sharon been with us, I know she would have gushed about the exposed brick along inside. The most memorable feature for me was the washrooms, however. Instead of your traditional, completely separated men’s and women’s rooms, chill winston has a big room with a giant tap in the middle, and lots of individual stalls. Unique and kind of interesting.

chill winston

The brunch menu is new apparently, and is described as a “winter brunch menu”. It also points out that Winston only uses eggs from organically-fed free-range chickens. I ordered the Eggs Benedict ($11) – two soft poached eggs and ham on a toasted English muffin topped with citrus tarragon hollandaise. I thought it was really tasty, and combined with the potatoes, it definitely hit the spot.

chill winston

Megan opted for the Ham, Cheese, and Tomato Omelette ($14) – three eggs, grilled ham, tomato concasse, and Gruyere. I expected the omelette to be bigger, but Megan seemed to enjoy it all the same. The fruit was a nice addition to both plates as well, despite being out of season.

We hung around for quite a while after our meals, not in any hurry. The restaurant wasn’t very busy, but it was still nice to not feel rushed – the staff cleared our plates but didn’t try to push us out the door.

If you’re looking for somewhere to stop in Gastown for a drink or something to eat, consider checking out Chill Winston. And for the locals – you can preorder lunch for take-out online! Very cool.

Chill Winston 
3 Alexander Street
Vancouver, BC, V6A 1B2
604.288.9575
open everyday, 11 AM to 1 AM

“Family Restaurant” Disappointment

The third season of Food Network Canada’s Family Restaurant concluded tonight. Featuring the Quons, the family behind The Lingnan and Chicken for Lunch, the series documented the day-to-day challenges of running a restaurant, and some special milestones in the family’s life over the six month filming period.

I had the opportunity to sit down with Miles Quon back in December, prior to the debut of the show. Miles said that he wanted the show to shed some light on the chaos in the kitchen. “Customers might come in, sit down and say, ‘Why am I waiting so long for my food? What’s happening in there?’ I want them to see that side. Maybe give us a break.” Second, he thought the series was a good way to promote the restaurant – “We’ve been doing this for a long time in Edmonton. Too long to be unnoticed and under the radar. I really want to get our name out and drum up some excitement.” When asked whether or not the family changed their behaviour around the crew, he responded, “We’re just too busy [to act in front of the cameras] and we just like being ourselves.”

After watching all ten episodes, I think some of Miles’ objectives were achieved. I liked the behind-the-scenes shots of the kitchen, and seeing all of the energy and multi-tasking required. I also read in a recent issue of 24 Hours that the Lingnan was beyond busy, and that many of their regular customers were annoyed that they had to wait upwards of an hour for a table.

There were a lot of things that were less than impressive about this run of Family Restaurant, however. While I didn’t religiously tune into the previous series that centered on the Psalios family (they run the three Koutouki establishments around the city), when I did catch it on occasion, the episodes seemed to have an overarching plot that stretched over the season. The drama also seemed genuine, including the initiation of Yianni’s son-in-law into the family business, and Theo’s maturation and increasing responsibilities.

In comparison, I think my Dad said it best when he called this show “a cartoon”. Each member of the family seemed to play a role more akin to a sitcom than a documentary – Amy the overbearing matriarch; Kinman the easygoing and silent husband; Miles the bossy eldest son; Mandy the token daughter; and Marty the lazy foil to his brother. While Miles wasn’t cast as the “villain” per se, he did seem to exaggerate his actions and arguments, and a lot of his interactions didn’t appear to be genuine. Most problems that were introduced at the beginning of each episode (need for security, renovations, etc.) were resolved in the thirty minute time slot. And even the storylines that showed some promise – Mandy’s relationship with Ajit, Miles’s wedding in China – weren’t developed. Seriously – the crew travelled to China and all the audience was treated to was a brief scene in a noodle shop, a Fear Factor-esque market moment, and two quick chef trials. We also never found out when Miles’s wife Pan-Pan would be returning to Canada.

I was also hoping that Edmonton would be featured more prominently, though I understand that the primary focus was on the Quons and The Lingnan. It peeved me a little that the summer “food festival” was never once referred to by name.

In December, Miles said that the family had not yet been approached by the Network about a second season, though I assume that was because ratings would play a factor in that decision. Though I want the Family Restaurant lens to remain in Edmonton, I’m not sure another term with the Quons would be worth watching.

The Cooking Chronicles: Cheater’s Calzone

Sometimes a person needs a shortcut. For me, that meant buying some frozen bread dough from Save on Foods to help me along in a weekday calzone attempt (something I feel slightly guilty about after reading that Chris makes from-scratch bread every week). We had used that particular brand before for our dessert pizza experiment last year, but having not defrosted it correctly meant that the dough was difficult to roll out into the appropriate shape. This time, I was convinced that I could defrost the dough properly.

On that weekday, I made sure to hit “defrost” on the microwave, and watched the dough carefully. At about the seven minute mark, I stopped the machine, but it was already too late – the dough had already started to cook, resulting in a hard crust in places. Mack did his best to roll it out without a rolling pin (that would have been handy), but we ended up creating two individual, thick-crusted pizzas that night.

Over the weekend, in order to make use of the leftover toppings we had purchased, I tried to defrost it the conventional way by taking out the frozen dough in the morning. Of course, had I read the instructions more carefully, I would have known that the dough was meant to be defrosted in the fridge, instead of at room temperature. As a result, after I let the dough rise in a warm oven (where it exploded into a shape three times the size of what we started with), a thin crust had formed on the dough.

This time, however, emboldened with a rolling pin (hurrah for Winners, my favourite housewares store), Mack was able to roll out a eight or nine-inch sized crust, so we figured it was large enough for a two-serving calzone. We spread tomato sauce over half of the dough, and topped it with mozzarella, pepperoni, and fridge-gleaned red pepper and tomatoes. We folded over the dough, sealed it with some water, and pressed down on the edges to further enclose the pocket. I brushed the top with a bit of vegetable oil, and put it into a 375 degree oven (I used a Real Simple recipe as a guide). After about twenty minutes, our calzone was ready, nice and golden brown on the outside.

Pepperoni, Tomato and Red Pepper Calzone

I was afraid that there would be a bit too much dough, but as it had been rolled fairly thin, it was all right. Having been helped along by pre-made dough, it was a straightforward recipe that was perfect for two. I would make it again, although I would hope that the third time would be the charm with actually defrosting the dough correctly.

Culinary Q & A with Charles Szaszkiewicz (aka Zed) and Marianne Stover

Occupations:

Charles – boot boy maker (Boot Boys are machines that clean the bottom of shoes in curling rinks, rec centres, factories, etc.)

Marianne – student/part time Sobey’s Bistro server

What did you eat today?

We each had a latte and muffin at Da Capo for breakfast, sandwiches and veggies at a family gathering for lunch, and a lemon-rosemary-thyme-garlic roast chicken with potatoes and veg for dinner.

What do you never eat?

Charles: raisins, peanut butter, pineapple, mac and cheese, cheese on its own (it has to be cooked on pizza, pasta, etc.)

Marianne: raw tomatoes – I’m good with having them cooked in sauces or hidden in other cooked dishes, but something about the taste and texture of them raw puts me off.

What is your personal specialty?

Charles: Pecan squares; tuna casserole and souffle

Marianne: vegetarian chili

Complete this sentence: In our refrigerator, you will always find:

Butter (salted tub for use on toast, bagels, etc. and unsalted bar), eggs and milk, a couple cheeses (usually gouda, something else and Parmesan), raspberry jam, peanut butter (for Marianne) and Maple Syrup

What is your weekday meal standby?

Charles: ground beef or cubed steak stewed with onion, Paprika and other spices with pasta

Marianne: some sort of pasta and tomato sauce (we make the sauce) or a veggie stir-fry with some rice noodles

What is your favourite kitchen item?

Marianne: the Microplane – I love it for lemon zest, Parmesan and nutmeg

Charles: it’s all about the knife holder man ("The Ex")

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Lots of different Pale Ales from around the world and the coconut curry sauce from Culina Mill Creek but on fresh calamari. Charles would go for a good piece of fresh salmon or some type of meaty fish, and I would love a big bowl of fresh PEI mussels in a white wine and garlic sauce as well as a chunk of baked brie or goats’ cheese, some really good bread, a bowl of baked yams with a bit of maple syrup and lots of nutmeg, brussel sprouts and some Thanksgiving stuffing with lots of raisins in it. Dessert would be the "sample platter" from Social in Ottawa (carrot cake, chocolate cake, creme brulee, crumble and cheese cake).

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Blue Plate Diner for dinner and Leva or Da Capo for espresso/coffee

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

We loved Red Ox Inn when we were there for Fork Fest this year – the service and food was fantastic.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

Neither of us has spent much (if any) time out of Canada, but right now, we would likely head to Montreal or somewhere in that area.

Charles: fresh Montreal bagels, Shwartz’s smoked meat, Beaver Tails with maple butter

Marianne: at the moment, I just dream of freshly caught sea food (especially shell fish), then I would be good to go.

Charles and Marianne blog at Loosen Your Belt and Eat Around Edmonton.

A New Addition to Edmonton’s Culinary Blogosphere

I’ve mentioned on this blog that the last six months have been a bustling one in Edmonton’s online food scene. A number of voices have joined the fray recently, and I do believe the more the merrier – everyone has a unique perspective on food, and there is seemingly an unlimited number of topics to cover, even in a city the size of ours.

A new blog began today, one I had been anticipating for some time. Eat My Words is Liane Faulder’s contribution to the blogosphere, where she will be documenting food highlights that don’t make it into the Journal. Her first two posts include tidbits about a bakery she visited during a recent Mexican vacation, a Dine Alberta dinner, and cupcakes she purchased from Flirt Cupcakes.

When I met Liane for lunch back in November, she indicated that she would be starting a blog in the new year. At that time, she asked me why I avoided posting short entries, as she thought immediacy was one of the handiest features of a blog. While it works best for me to gather the brief tidbits together in my weekly notes posts (giving it more substance, somehow), I expect Liane to share concise thoughts or experiences now and then.

I think the Journal Bistro writer entering the food blogging world in Edmonton is a positive step – I believe it will bring more awareness and readership to the blogs already in existence (Liane has started a blogroll, and also linked to some online resources).

Welcome to the blogosphere, Liane. I look forward to reading your posts!

Food Notes for March 9, 2009

Lots to share this week! Let’s get to it:

  • One of the concurrent sessions at the food security conference I wished I could have attended was about the recently completed “Cost of Eating in Alberta” report. It was released this week, and the findings aren’t surprising: though the acceptable portion of one’s income to be spent on food is 15%, the report found that some households were spending upwards of 32% on food. Read more here.
  • My piece on the Sabetghadam family behind Whyte Ave’s Sabzy Cafe was published this week in Vue Weekly. Vue also printed reviews of two relatively new restaurants – 100 and Culina Highlands.
  • Liane finally continued her series that sees local chefs promoting their favourite blocks to shop. This week, Koutouki’s Chris St. Denis introduced 124th Street to readers.
  • Local designer Lea Alcantara has created a page to try and answer the age-old question – is Tau Bay open?
  • Also mentioned at the conference was Augustana Campus’s 100-mile cookie challenge, where all but one of the cookie recipe’s ingredients must come from within 100 miles of Camrose.
  • Sometimes I like reading about the means and not just the ends to those means, and the Transcend Coffee blog is the perfect example of this. I love Poul’s recent post on how they are changing the way they sell their coffee, reflecting the learning that has gone on. Customers really reap the benefit of their passion and their willingness to share their growing knowledge base.
  • The Globe had a story this week about pay-what-you-can restaurant menus popping up all over the world in the face of the global recession. While I don’t think local restaurants will go down this path any time soon, Manor Cafe is offering $30 3-course prix fixe meals after 5pm Sundays to Wednesdays. Now it starts.
  • It’s always nice when local businesses get national recognition – Sylvan Star Gouda was featured in the Globe this week.
  • The Go Organic Cookbook I wrote about two weeks ago can be ordered online after March 11. It features profiles and recipes of 55 local producers. At just $20, it’s a worthwhile purchase.
  • I mentioned in February that Ruth Reichl is on Twitter. It turns out there are many other well-known food personalities on Twitter, including the NYT’s Mark Bittman. Eater has also started a new series called “A Movable Tweet: the latest from the industry Twitterati”. On the subject of Twitter and restaurants, I do think Soul Soup could benefit from using the service – they could Tweet their daily selection of soups, and remind local followers that they should be kept in mind as a lunch option!
  • As seen in the latest edition of City Palate, Lola Canola has started a monthly newsletter on bees and honey. E-mail Patty Milligan to be added onto the list.
  • The City of Vancouver just approved the keeping of backyard chickens. Will Edmonton (being lobbied by the River City Chicken Collective) be next?
  • You may remember Todd Babiak’s article about the disruptive television screens in the city’s bars. It seems that while television-less bars in New York are a dying breed, there are a few that remain committed to maintaining a venue for conversation and entertainment without a screen.
  • Starbucks began offering their value meals in the U.S. last week. For $3.95, customers could get a tall coffee and their choice of an egg sandwich, Perfect Oatmeal, or a slice of coffee cake (Serious Eats gives the egg sandwich a thumbs up). I hope something similarly priced debuts in Canada soon!
  • On the heels of thisiswhyyourefat, another viral, visual site: scanwiches.
  • An interesting blog post in the Village Voice about the proliferation of the tip jar, and the way some establishments try to guilt customers into filling them.

The Cooking Chronicles: Fried Rice

Fried rice is a dish I was a little afraid to make on my own. As my Mum’s versions have always been so tasty, I figured that my own attempt would never live up to her standard.

In an effort to use up some leftover rice in the fridge, however, I picked up some BBQ pork in Chinatown on Friday (at Tasty BBQ, 10632 97 Street, 780-428-3383) and asked my Mum for a few pointers. She advised me to scramble the eggs first, take them out, then fry up the onions and pork. Next, she told me to add the rice, peas, cooked eggs, and heat them through. Lastly, I was to season the mixture with salt and white pepper.

I did exactly as I was told, and was very happy with the result. The pork was a tad dry (not sure if the fact that the pork sat in the fridge overnight influenced this), but other than that, it tasted very similar to my Mum’s rice.

 

Fried Rice

I will definitely be making this again. Thanks Mum for the guidance!

Five for Foodies: Solo Dining

I would have preferred the name “Listage” for this semi-regular series, but realized that Eater already had a lock on that word. So instead, we have “Five for Foodies”, which will catalogue a handful of establishments that excel in a particular category, or offer something unique in the city’s culinary scene.

To start, I thought I would chronicle my five favourite places to dine solo. Often, my rationale behind eating alone is to get some work done, but other times I am consciously choosing a space that will allow me to relax amongst low-key surroundings. My bias as well, being without a vehicle, are restaurants in walkable areas of Edmonton and that are conveniently connected to public transit.

So in no particular order, here are my personal picks for solo-friendly eateries:

  • Shine Bistro (9828 101A Avenue) – I discovered this gem of a restaurant back in 2007. Tucked away in the Citadel Theatre complex in the shadow of Canada Place, Shine is a charming cafe-style eatery with local art on the walls. Their mainstays of soups and sandwiches aren’t unique, but the kitchen is consistent and service is brisk. My only complaint is that they are only open on weekdays until 3pm.
  • Leva (11053 86 Avenue) – Between their thin-crust pizzas and fantastic paninis, at some point I thought the cafe owners had me in mind when they designed their menu. I love the marble tables, the chic chandelier, and their shelf of interesting reads. Of course, their devotion to local producers doesn’t hurt either.
  • Blue Plate Diner (10145 104 Street) – my oft-cited favourite, it’s also my default solo dining destination. Nothing’s cosier than their brick wall, hardwood floor, and tabletop lamps. I never feel rushed, and their Friday Night Dinner specials are a  nice bonus.
  • Three Bananas Cafe (9918 102 Avenue) – this cafe is as central as it gets, as it is situated right on Churchill Square. It’s typically packed during warm weather festival season, but it’s a great place for a bite to eat or a cup of coffee all year round. I’m a sucker for their pepperoni and mushroom pizza, while the floor-to-ceiling windows are good for people-watching.
  • Hoang Long (10715 – 98 Street) – there’s nothing like musing over a bowl of beef noodle soup, and Hoang Long, which is just a short jaunt away from my office, has provided many a pho escape. I find the minimal decor soothing, and the sound level, even on a busy day, controlled. The large wooden tables are also the perfect reading surface for a newspaper. Unfortunately, the Chinatown location of Hoang Long has been closed for several months due to staff shortages – I hope they are able to reopen soon.

A La Carte For The Win: Normand’s

Eater is always an entertaining website, but in the weeks leading up to Valentine’s Day, it was even more so. They had dubbed V-Day “Black Saturday”, as many restaurants predictably offered only very expensive prix fixe menus and nothing else, leaving diners at the mercy of establishments. Eater made sure to ridicule some of the more ridiculous Valentine’s Day offers, and also, to help readers spend wisely, posted lists of restaurants that continued to offer their regular menu in the face of “Black Saturday” temptation.

Well, back in Edmonton, we found the same phenomenon – many of our favourite restaurants were guilty of this. While I understand the desire to streamline the kitchen and make service more efficient, do the majority of people really need (or want) a four or five-course meal (especially one priced at upwards of $150)? It seems excessive, and a money-grabbing ploy, and we made sure we weren’t a part of it.

Mack let me choose the restaurant, and I decided to go with the elusive Normand’s (11639A Jasper Avenue NW). The only thing I knew about the restaurant was that they served game, and that they had been a fixture on Jasper Avenue for many years. I had called to make a reservation back in mid-January – at that time, the earliest seating we were offered was 8pm; we found out when we got to the restaurant that they had lined up reservations until 10:30pm that night.

Normand’s

The host was efficient – after taking our coats, he led us up a few stairs to a table in the corner. It gave us a fairly nice view of the tiered space, but was unfortunately placed near the bustling bar where orders were being placed a mile a minute, and near the kitchen where orders were streaming out on a continuous basis.

The interior reminded me of a cross between Le Table de Renoir and Bistro Praha – framed Renoir prints were hung on the stucco walls, and the plaster arches that divided the dining room aged the space at least twenty years. It was nice enough, but Normand’s could use a makeover, or at least an update.

We were given the choice of their regular menu, or a four-course Valentine’s Day special. The latter was tempting, given the decent price point ($54.95 per person for soup, salad, one of three entrees, and chocolate fondue to share), but none of the mains listed caught our eye. So a la carte it was.

As someone always taken by the mushroom soup option, I elected for the wild mushroom cream ($7.50), while the tomato basil soup du jour ($6.75) appealed to Mack. For our main courses, we deviated as we usually do – Mack went straight for the lobster and scallops mornay ($33.95), and I, still on a duck kick, opted for the Lac Brome Roast Duck ($30.95).

I was expecting the soup course to be fairly generous, as the price of a bowl wasn’t cheap, and Normand’s delivered. The cream soup (which is apparently one of the restaurant’s most well-known dishes) was rich, but not overly so. I thought it was better than the thicker puree I tried at Red Ox a few weeks ago, but it was still nothing exceptional. Mack enjoyed his soup, and there was definitely a roast garlic kick to it.

Tomato Basil Soup

Our mains arrived fairly promptly – Normand’s definitely had the air of a well-oiled machine. My dish had a bit of fanfare to it – not content to just serve either breast or leg, I received both in a small pot. Our server transferred the leg onto my plate, and helped me spoon some of the cranberry and orange port wine sauce over top of it. Mack’s mornay, in comparison, was quite a bit smaller, but drenched in a shallot white wine cream sauce, it made up for size with richness.

The duck meat was unfortunately a touch overcooked, but combined with the sweet sauce, was all right to eat (the large serving also meant that I had enough to top off a salad the next day – for whatever reason, the meat tasted better eaten this way). The crispy skin was also a nice treat – I think duck skin is the new bacon.

Lac Brome Roast Duck

Mack thoroughly enjoyed his dish (containing two of his favourite proteins, this wasn’t a surprise), though he said that the scallops tasted better with the thick, creamy sauce than the lobster.

Lobster & Scallops Mornay

I couldn’t decide on dessert, but swayed visually by the table next to us that had opted to share fondue, I thought fondue for two ($13.95) would be an appropriately cheesy way to end the night. Normand’s uses Bernard Callebaut chocolate, so the fondue mixture was decidedly sweet. Paired with the sliced fruit, however, it was perfect. Mack preferred the bananas, while I was a sucker for the strawberries. The toasted slices of almonds were a thoughtful touch on the plate and allowed that extra bit of indulgence.

Chocolate fondue for two

While I wasn’t blown away by our experience at Normand’s, I was very happy that they chose to offer their a la carte menu in the face of Black Saturday. They also managed to provide excellent service in spite of a full house. So although I’m not sure Normand’s would become my standby, it seems like a reliable establishment that isn’t likely to change its menu or its style anytime soon.

Normand’s
11639A Jasper Avenue NW
(780) 482-2600
Monday-Thursday 11:30am-10pm, Friday 11:30am-11:30pm, Saturday 5-11:30pm, Sunday 5-9pm

Edmonton Foodie Meetup #1

A few weeks ago, I wrote about an upcoming first-ever Edmonton Foodie Meetup that would take place at Blue Plate Diner. I didn’t know at the time of course that tonight would be one of the coldest nights in recent memory, but I should have also known that Edmonton’s culinary community are made up of a hearty bunch – every one of the 12 individuals who signed up on the wiki came, in spite of the weather!

 

Edmonton foodies

It was a great opportunity to meet the authors behind some of the food blogs I read every day, and to chat about our love of food. Here’s a list of the bloggers (and their blogs) that attended tonight (Diane from NAIT and Mack were also there though they don’t have food blogs):

The acoustics of the Diner worked against talking to those at the other end of the table, but for the most part, I’m glad we chose this particular restaurant. Service was good, and portions were larger than I remember from previous visits.

 

Sweet Potato Fries (Mack loved the mayo dipping sauce)

 

Green Onion Cakes (I could have done without these, but Mack disagreed)

 

Mack’s Green Curry and Broccoli Soup and Mac-N-Cheese

 

My Pozole Chicken Enchiladas (not as dry as the last time I had them, I was happy with the generous amount of cheese on top)

Thanks to everyone for coming, and a special thank you to Hanne and Courtney for helping me organize the get-together! Based on the interest expressed, I think we will be having a second foodie meetup some time in the future. Keep an eye on the wiki for details!