I didn’t know much about Rush when I chose it to be our Dine-out Calgary dinner choice, except that it was fairly upscale, as someone on Chowhound commented that they were surprised that the restaurant was in the $35 and not $85 tasting bracket. We also found out, after we made our reservation that Rush offers complimentary valet parking after 6pm. As we had chosen a centrally-located hotel, we wouldn’t be utilizing the service, but I’m sure it would help tempt many a diner especially on cold winter nights.

We walked over to Rush, and were right on time for our 7pm reservation. We were immediately greeted by a friendly hostess and a coat check attendant, were seamlessly freed from our jackets and led to a table in the dining room. The hostess asked if I would like to hang my purse, and when I said yes, pulled out a gold-plated purse hook and hung it off a side of the table – a non-essential, but thoughtful touch by the restaurant.

It looked exactly as it did in the photos I had seen on the restaurant’s website, but on closer inspection, was a little less stunning. The visually interesting floor-to-ceiling dividers were a unique addition, but spray-painted gold, seemed tacky. The pastel green chairs (instead of a more monochromatic shade of white or black) also cheapened the décor somewhat. The large wine room, however, chic with clear glass and alluring lighting, was the interior’s bright spot. We also decided that the music that was initially played belonged not in a restaurant of this calibre, but in a department store. Thankfully, towards the end of our meal, the tunes shifted more to the smooth jazz variety (Dave Brubek’s “Take 5” for one).

We were soon greeted by one of our two servers for the evening. He brought the wine and cocktail lists, and asked us if we would like sparkling or still water. In the past in such restaurants, I have found that “still water” translates into “bottled water”, so I responded that we would like tap water. Upon hearing my answer, he launched into a retort that was neither helpful or entirely clear, and mentioned briefly that the water was a “good deal” because it was tap water run through a special process. He was condescending (something that would continue throughout our meal), and missed an opportunity to educate us about how Rush goes above and beyond other establishments. I learned later from the website that the restaurant is the first in Canada to use the Nordaq FRESH water system: “FRESH is ultra pure water where tastes such as soil, clay, chalk and chlorine have been removed using a patented system. According to leading chefs and sommeliers, FRESH enhances the experience of food and wine. As FRESH is bottled on location and is not transported it is also a more environmentally responsible choice.” Needless to say, our lovely introduction to the restaurant was marred by his unexpected rudeness.

The server came back with a clear wine bottle filled with water, and just when I was about to question the fact that we still hadn’t been given food menus, a busperson appeared before us with a tiny plate containing three amuse bouches. The first was beef tataki with garlic puree, the second a beet puree, and the third a savoury shortbread. Of the three, we liked the crispy, warm and cheesy shortbread – what can I say? We’re easy to please.

 

Amuse Bouches

As soon as we’d finished our plates, they were whisked away and food menus were presented to us. It occurred to me then that the restaurant wanted us to be able to fully focus on the amuse bouche and the tone of the meal before being introduced to text distractions. The $35, three-course Dine-Out menu was contained within, and once we realized that entrees ranged from $35 and up, we knew we were getting a really good deal.

We put in our orders with a female server, who assisted us for most of the night. Unlike her counterpart, She was friendly, gracious and demonstrated a sense of humor. When she incorrectly positioned Mack’s entrée, she joked, “Please don’t tell the Chef, or I’ll be beaten again.” I had to wonder why there was such a dissonance between servers.

We both ordered the roast garlic soup (with ham hock and parsley coulis) to start, but deviated our choices for the rest of the meal. I decided on the sous vide filet of Chinook salmon and chocolate tasting for dessert, while Mack opted for the loin of Broek Farms’ Berkshire pork and ice cream trio.

Bread service included three options, only one of which I can remember (multigrain). Our female server did a really good job in painstakingly introducing each dish to us (and all their garnishes), but a detriment to my food blogging tendency is to never write anything down during the meal. I prefer to focus on the experience in the moment, but I know my memory isn’t what it should be, so I apologize for the lost details. The bread was all right, though Mack would have preferred to have eaten the slices warm.

 

Bread service

The garlic soup was good – flavourful, but not too overpowering. The foam layer on top also lightened what could have been a heavy cream concoction.

 

Roast Garlic Soup

The star of the meal was undoubtedly our entrees. I was excited to try the sous vide salmon, and it was exactly what I expected – the fish had adopted a melt-in-your-mouth texture that I doubt could have been achieved any other way. Underneath sat flecks of double-smoked bacon – heaven in every crisp, they almost overshadowed the salmon. My only nitpick about the dish were some of the slightly undercooked potatoes.

 

Filet of Chinook Salmon

Mack really liked his pork, which had also been prepared sous vide. The thick slice of meat (nearly double the size of my salmon) retained its moisture, and contained a healthy amount of what Mack dubbed fat to be “slurped up”. He enjoyed the lentil pairing as well.

 

Berkshire Pork Loin

Dessert included smoked chocolate mousse and chicory and milk chocolate ice cream for me, neither of which were exceptional. Mack’s trio of ice cream yielded one absolute winner though – the raspberry sorbet.

 

Chocolate Tasting

 

Ice Cream Trio

The male server returned to present us with a tiny plate of complimentary sweets to end our meal. Unlike his counterpart, however, he did not stop to describe any of them, and turned to leave as soon as the plate hit the table. Out of the three, the macaron was my favourite.

 

Meal-ending treats

He returned to deliver the bill, and a bag of ribbon-wrapped granola, “for the morning”. It was a considerate gesture, particularly for a party that ordered from the cheaper menu.

 

Granola “for the morning”

All told, Rush provided us with a mostly positive experience – it is evident that the owners and the chef have designed the restaurant with the patron in mind, and have incorporated thoughtful touches and details that elevate Rush above other fine dining establishments. At the same time, had we seen more of the unfortunate server, I may not have been left with the same impression – I hope something is done to correct the inconsistencies in patron relations.

Rush
100, 207 9 Avenue SW
(403) 271-7874
Monday-Friday 11:30am for lunch and 5pm for dinner, Saturday 5pm, closed Sundays