Category: food

Unwind with Wine: Moriarty’s Bistro & Wine Bar

I’m very happy to see that Edmonton is finally getting its wine bar groove on. Moriarty’s Bistro & Wine Bar and LIT Wine Bar (on Jasper Avenue and 104 Street) are joining the fray that already includes Bibo and TZiN. While LIT is still in the works, Moriarty’s opened at the end of December, and after the Winter Light gala at City Hall last week, Mack and I popped over to check it out.

Moriarty’s Bistro & Wine Bar

Moriarty’s is the third business in two years to occupy the space that used to house Ching’s Asian Dim Bar and Mimi’s (10162 100A Street), right across the street from Hundred. I hope the space isn’t cursed, because I do think downtown could use another place for a glass of wine, and Moriarty’s, at least from our first visit, is a great addition to the core.

Wine

Moriarty’s is owned by the same people who run Sherlock Holmes and the Rose & Crown, but you wouldn’t know it from the interior. The black and white colour scheme is sleek and elegant, with one wall lined with cozy white leather banquets (where we chose to sit). The plastic black chairs that made up the bulk of seating options didn’t look too comfortable, but they were aesthetically pleasing. I loved the oversized light fixtures, and large black mirrors on the walls.

Interior

Moriarty’s is the fourth establishment in Edmonton to install and utilize an Enomatic wine system (Vinomania, The Bothy and Hardware Grill are the others). The system allows wine to stay fresher longer, meaning wines served by the glass can be preserved for a longer period of time. We both selected a glass of wine from the Enomatic menu, with eight options to choose from. I won’t even pretend to be a wine connoisseur to say that I can taste the difference between a freshly opened bottle and one with a life lengthened by nitrogen gases, but I think the technology is neat.

We weren’t particularly hungry that day (having sampled some food at the gala), but opted to order something to share. The menu wasn’t as exciting as I had hoped for (particularly after our server told us the chef trained at the Hardware Grill), and consisted of pizza-like flatbreads, sandwiches, salads, and a handful of appetizers. We ended up with the leek and house-roasted ham French tart, recommended by our server.

The server told us the phyllo pastry was made in-house, which was a welcome surprise. Buttery, flaky and rich, it was definitely not an everyday dish, and accompanied with the crunchy shredded leeks and ham, it was wholly satisfying.

Leek and Ham French Tart

Being the only patrons that night had its pros and cons. Our food arrived in no time, but the lack of co-diners made our experience somewhat awkward. Our server was on top of us from the moment we walked in, but given his genuine nature and obvious desire to please, it was excusable. And if anything, his sincerity was much preferred to some of the more condescending service we’ve encountered in the city.

Best of luck to Moriarty’s – I hope to be back for a glass of wine after work soon!

Moriarty’s Bistro & Wine Bar
10162 100A Street
(780) 757-2005

Food Notes for January 11, 2010

I am very happy that House and (next week) 24 are back with new episodes. And though Canadians are again getting shafted with a delayed broadcast of Top Chef Masters, I’m enjoying the show so far! On to this week’s food notes:

  • The last week of this season’s Meet the Locals Festival at Planet Organic south runs January 11-17 – check out their tasting tables and cooking demonstrations!
  • The Art Gallery of Alberta posted details on their new food establishments, including ZINC, which will be led by Chef David Omar. It doesn’t look like they posted a menu yet, but from the hours, they will be serving brunch!
  • Two local businesses announced that they are branching out with their second locations this year – Whimsical Cupcakes, with a new store to open near the High Level Bridge, and a second Padmanadi, a vegetarian restaurant with a cult following, to open on 107 Avenue and 101 Street on May 21. Transcend Coffee also posted an update about their second “T2” location in Garneau – looks like coffee lovers will have to be patient, as the renovations will take longer than originally anticipated.
  • Vue Weekly published an interview with Peter Jackson, formerly the chef/owner of Jack’s Grill. Since selling Jack’s, he has taken on a position of “Culinary Leader” at the Cheesecake Cafe. Perhaps this will be a trend in the next five years – chefs leaving independent eateries to guide larger chains.
  • The Bothy was positively reviewed in the Journal this past week. There was also an article about Edmonton’s growing hunger to learn more about wine.
  • Chris over at Eating is the Hard Part has a great series of Q & As worth a read – the first with the owner of GF Patisserie in Cochrane and the second with Duane Hicks of Blue Plate Diner.
  • This is interesting – the LA Times becomes the first major NA newspaper to shift their food section from Wednesday to Thursday.
  • Though it’ll likely be 2011 before it ever airs on Food Network Canada, I’m happy to see that Gail Simmons (of Food & Wine Magazine, and with Tom Colicchio, form the best reality judging duo on television, in my opinion) will be hosting the second Top Chef spinoff called Just Desserts.
  • Speaking of TV, does anyone else find those new McDonald’s advertisements particularly endearing? I’m talking about the Chicken Parmigiana, Big Mac and Egg McMuffin campaigns that flash from image to image, set to catchy, upbeat music.
  • The Tim Horton’s commercial featuring the doughnut wheel (in conjunction with the 49cent doughnut add on promotion) made me laugh. And while at Tim’s last week grabbing a drink, I was surprised to find a small version of the wheel in store!

 

Pick your poison (I’m a sucker for the vanilla dip, so I wouldn’t leave it to chance)

  • Though I’m not sure that part of downtown Edmonton needed another one – a Starbucks in Commerce Place will open February 4.

 

This will make it four Starbucks within 3 downtown blocks

Have a good week everyone!

Slow Food Edmonton: Winter Solstice Supper

Valerie (aka A Canadian Foodie) is a valuable Slow Food Edmonton member, and is particularly outspoken when it comes to teaching children about good, clean and fair food. And as Mack and I found out on Saturday, she is also a host par excellence.

Valerie addresses the hungry masses

Valerie had the great idea of starting a series of Slow Food “solstice suppers” – informal opportunities to mingle and share a meal with other local Slow Food members – and offered to host the first event. So on Saturday, Mack and I joined about two dozen others at Valerie’s house with, of course, a dish in hand.

Gathering around the appetizers

I have made Giada de Laurentiis’s mini frittatas before, but this was my first time using duck eggs (from Greens, Eggs and Ham) and bacon (from Valbella). I also added mushrooms and the requisite Parmesan and parsley. Better served warm but fine at room temperature, they’re a great party appetizer that are both quick to assemble and bake off. And with duck instead of chicken eggs, I found them to be lighter and fluffier than usual!

Two-bite Frittatas made with Greens, Eggs and Ham duck eggs and Valbella bacon

The spread at Valerie’s was amazing – I would have been satisfied with consuming the cheese plate alone. But variety is the spice of life, and even in the dead of winter, it was fantastic to see the breadth of locally-procured goods utilized in all of the dishes. From the Gull Valley tomatoes in Valerie’s bruschetta to Sylvan Star Cheese in Maria’s potato gratin to bison sausage from First Nature Farms, it was clear that area producers still have much to offer right now.

Buffet

The star of the evening was undoubtedly the roast pig. Valerie and Vanja ordered the pig from one of Vanja’s friends, who obtains the pigs from Hillview Acres Farm then roasts them in stone ovens in his garage. The meat was very tender and moist, and as you can probably see from the photos, there was plenty to go around!

“Some pig”

Ready to eat

Though everything was delicious, I have to pay particular homage to Colleen and Vince’s bread. Two years ago, they built a wood-burning oven in their backyard, which enables them to make, among other things, crusty bread. They brought a sampling of loaves with them, and I really had to stop myself at three slices. I was lucky enough to score a small baguette to take home though – reheated this morning for breakfast, it was still superb.

Bread!

And dessert? Between David and Nicole’s moist-but-not-too-rich Bavarian torte and Valerie’s gorgeous cookies, we were made.

Around the dessert table

Valerie’s cookie trays

It was a nice touch that Valerie invited everyone to write out the name of their dish, including the names of local producers utilized, on cards to display next to the dishes – she is in the process of collecting recipes and once finished, will display them on the Slow Food Edmonton website.

Good food, good company #1

#2

#3

Thanks again to Valerie and Vanja for hosting such a great evening!

You can see my photoset here, and read Valerie’s post on the evening here.

No Caribou, No Problem: The Black Knight Pub

Mack and I ventured out into the Yellowknife cold (-42 with windchill) in the hopes of having lunch at Yummy Cafe. From the post on the lovely Life in the Knife blog, Yummy looked like my kind of place – family-run, cozy, offering fresh baked goods. Unfortunately, like many restaurants and businesses in Yellowknife, Yummy was closed not only during our visit, but for an entire month. We returned home, disappointed, and vowed to do some more research.

After consulting with Mack’s parents, we decided to visit The Black Knight Pub (and called to make sure it would actually be open on New Year’s Eve). The website revealed the promise of caribou burgers, and Mack was eager to have me try some “northern” type food.

It was actually pretty busy inside, though we had our choice of a handful of vacant tables. The Black Knight had the standard pub decor – a haphazard collection of flags, license plates, badges and the like dressing the walls.

Mack at The Black Knight

It took a few minutes for the waitress to acknowledge our existence, but given the number of patrons inside, we didn’t mind the wait. After perusing the menu of pub favourites, we asked about the seasonal caribou burger – unfortunately, the waitress told us that because of low caribou populations, a supply of meat was difficult to obtain, and a menu change was imminent. We accepted the bison burger ($15.50) alternative.

Mack’s only real complaint about The Black Knight was the beer – his pint of draft Kokanee was inexcusably thin – he compared it to beer-flavoured water. Had he known, he would have ordered a bottle instead.

Our orders arrived in good time, looking as good as they would ultimately taste. The edges of the patty were a tad charred, but it didn’t ruin an otherwise solid burger.

Bison Burger

As we were leaving, we heard the sound checks of a DJ upstairs, where Top Knight would be hosting a New Year’s Eve party later on – I’m sure it was quite the event. If you’re in town, The Black Knight Pub is a good, casual lunch option.

The Black Knight Pub
4910 49 Street, Yellowknife
(867) 920-4041

Food Notes for January 4, 2010

Mack and I made it back safely from Yellowknife on Sunday afternoon, just in time to watch the Canadian Juniors defeat Switzerland! Unfortunately, a volunteer commitment will prevent me from watching the final against the US (sniff), but Mack has faithfully agreed to update me via text. On to this week’s food notes:

  • Looks like Melting Pot, the US-based fondue chain, is targeting Valentine’s Day for its grand opening (117, 2920 Calgary Trail, next to Cora’s).
  • Lea’s handy site reports that popular Chinatown eatery Pho Tau Bay is closed January 3 – March 5, 2010.
  • In case you missed it, watch for Original Fare’s Fork Fest later this month, January 17-21 and 24-28. Hopefully the menus are released a bit earlier this time.
  • Local bloggers Chris at Eating is the Hard Part and Valerie at A Canadian Foodie started off the new year with new blogs. Go check them out!
  • Liane wrote a good piece on educating Edmonton about food, published last week.
  • Vue Weekly also had a wrap-up article – the best and worst trends of the last decade.
  • Besides being in the press for their abysmal season thus far, the Edmonton Oilers were also in the news for a disputed bill at Osteria de Medici, an upscale Italian eatery in Calgary. Their disputed bill rang in at $16,796.39, including tax and tip. Interesting related thread on Chowhound about the restaurant – and it isn’t positive.
  • I watched the lobster episode of Lynn Crawford’s new Food Network series Pitchin’ In and was not impressed. I was hoping it would be a sort-of farming counterpoint to Bob Blumer’s very well done Glutton for Punishment, but Crawford comes across whiney and condescending. I think it is partly due to choppy editing, but there was nothing of value in the episode – I didn’t learn any more about lobster fishing (techniques or sustainability), cooking techniques, or recipes. I guess it can only get better from here, but I won’t be watching.
  • I finally perused Maple Leaf’s Republic of Bacon site and have to say, it is darn amusing (the “bacon porn” is worth a look, as are the restaurant menus). And though it’s not the same focus as the Hellmann’s Eat Real, Eat Local site, I think it is a better campaign because even though Maple Leaf is behind it, their logo and name aren’t stamped everywhere.
  • Is Christine the new Jared? She could be, with a ridiculous campaign called the Drive Thru Diet from Taco Bell.
  • Food Network Humor has some cute photos of your favourite Food Network chefs when they were younger.
  • I’m sure the Vancouver 2010 merchandise will be even more ubiquitous as the Games approach, but I couldn’t help but snap a photo of the cute bottles of maple syrup bearing the Olympic logo that we saw at a Co-op in Yellowknife.

 

Does it taste like the Olympics too?

  • Mack’s parents are tea aficionados, and have an entire cabinet devoted to loose leaf teas. In addition to a selection of fine teas, their brewing system also involved a cool Teavana tea maker that, once steeped, would dispense tea into a matching cup placed underneath.

 

Teavana Perfect Tea Maker

  • Mack’s parents also have a Breville Keurig single-cup coffee maker. While I won’t be giving up our grind and brew system any time soon (nothing beats the smell of fresh-ground beans), it was neat to have a selection of over a dozen coffees at any given time. Mack was particularly blown away by how quickly the K-cup was able to brew a cup of coffee.

 

Breville single-cup coffee maker

  • Seeing the new Skinny Legs and Cowgirls sign up, Mack and I stopped to check if they were open. While they aren’t yet offering lunch (they will be on January 9), they have been offering dinner and brunch since December 17! It looks beautiful inside, with the tinned ceiling and tiny chandeliers. Can’t wait to try out our new neighbourhood eatery!

 

Skinny Legs and Cowgirls (12202 Jasper Avenue, 780-423-4107)

Culinary Highlights: 2009 Edition

Scanning my posts from the past year, I was reminded again of how fortunate I am to be a part of a great culinary community in Edmonton and to have experienced (and eaten!) what I did in 2009.

So as in years past, here are a few of my culinary highlights from 2009, in no particular order:

 

Food: Today, Tomorrow, Together organizers

 

Pigs at Nature’s Green Acres

 

The greenhouse at Greens, Eggs and Ham

 

Me and Mack with our potato bounty

  • Attending my first ever Indulgence, and finding out that the evening really does live up to its name.

 

My favourite dish of the night – a Carmen Creek Ranch slider, prepared by Botanica

 

Wild Boar and Beer 2009

 

With the bell that I got to keep

  • Doing a lot of cooking (at least for me), including one of my favourite dish discoveries, cassoulet.

 

Mark Bittman’s version of cassoulet with lots of vegetables

With Chef Rob Feenie (Mack made me take the photo)

Mack occupies POTUS’s seat at Ben’s Chili Bowl

Melt-in-your-mouth gnocci at Proof

Jessie Radies of The Blue Pear, one of the three people I interviewed for the story

Latkes!

  • Attending two Foodie Meetups, and getting to meet some of the wonderful local food bloggers in person.

 

Foodie Meetup #1  at Blue Plate Diner

 Foodie Meetup #2 potluck at Dawson Park

  • Continuing to find diners to love – and still hoping for more of them in Edmonton.

Stuffed French toast from Dairy Lane in Calgary

Here’s to more eating in 2010!

Epicureous in Edmonton: 2009 in Review

I thought it was another great year for Edmonton’s food scene, though I probably sound like a broken record. However, it’s hard not to get excited when small, local businesses are getting the recognition they deserve in supplying the city with specialized products.

Tomatoes from Sundog Organics

Here are a few of the year’s notable trends and events:

  • A second Edmonton restaurant family was profiled in the third season of Family Restaurant early this year. Food Network Canada viewers were treated to a behind-the-scenes look at the Quons, the family behind local institutions The Lingnan and Chicken for Lunch. Unfortunately, the show left something to be desired.
  • While the effects of the recession were somewhat muted in Canada, people in Edmonton were still looking for dining deals to be had. As a result, several local restaurants, including The Blue Pear and Hardware Grill introduced menus with lower price points to entice patrons.
  • In spite of the economic downturn, several local establishments expanded their business in 2009. Health Fare opened its second location downtown, Famoso christened a third branch in South Edmonton Common, a third Mikado is now in the west end, and a new Transcend cafe will begin operation in Garneau in January 2010.
  • 2009 also saw several chains move into the city, including Cora’s, Cactus Club Cafe, and opening in early 2010, fondue restaurant Melting Pot.
  • Frozen yogurt shops, akin to their US cousins, have finally arrived in Edmonton! Twisted Yogurt opened up its first parlour in August, while Kiwi Kiss joined the fray in October. Expect many more storefronts in the first half of 2010.
  • As Eater would say, two’s a trend – both Vinomania and The Bothy are equipped with state-of-the-art Enomatic Wine Serving System. I wouldn’t be surprised if more restaurants go this route in the nest year.
  • Specialty bakeries were also launched in full force, with no less than four cake shops and cupcakeries popping up – Cake Couture, The Cake House, Flirt, and a second Fuss Cupcakes outlet on Whyte Avenue. Of course, who could forget Duchess, whose opening was the equivalent of a culinary earthquake in Edmonton.
  • A trend going into 2010 will undoubtedly be more transparent menus and accommodating kitchens, as more people require or choose gluten-free, vegetarian or vegan diets, but in 2009, Backstairs Cafe was already ahead of the trend, showcasing vegan cuisine and giving Edmonton its first culinary speakeasy in the process.
  • Local food producers continue to gain a foothold in the market, with the Good Food Box and new Alberta Avenue Farmers’ Market providing more opportunities to support area farmers, the Eat Local First initiative helping consumers to identify goods made by local purveyors, the Meet the Locals Festival connecting shoppers with producers, and the successful launch of We Eat Togethershowing the appetite for local food.

I’m looking forward to what 2010 has in store already!

Not a Diamond in the Rough: Fuego

To celebrate Mack’s birthday, Martin and Patti took the lot of us out for dinner at Fuego. Martin had been there for lunch one day, and enjoyed his visit.

Fuego is part of a larger company that includes a lounge, champagne bar, and catering service, under the umbrella of Dining on 50th. I was a little weary of their “international cuisine” tagline, but was willing to see what this Yellowknife restaurant had to offer.

Walking downstairs into the space, I was immediately struck by how busy it was. Though we knew many restaurants in the city are closed for the holiday season, I somehow still didn’t expect a nearly full house. Dimly lit, the decor was simple – red walls, sleek leather chairs, and pictures of a lake sunset encased in false windows.

Mack and me

The dining room was bracketed by a small bar and a stage – Fuego hosts local musicians on a nightly basis. The talented Shea Alain was our entertainer that night, performing acoustic, low-tempo covers of everything from “My Girl” to Fort Minor’s “Where’d You Go”.

Fuego has quite a large menu, and though there was some Latin American influence, it seemed to be put together with a purpose to please – the grilled ostrich seemed out of place. More focus might do it some good. Regardless, everyone was able to find one dish that appealed to them. Most of us also ordered appetizers.

The baked caramelized onion soup ($9) was rich, and packed an unexpected heat. Underneath the melted cheese and bread was a dense web of onions that I struggled to finish. Mack’s jumbo bacon scallop skewer ($15) was beautifully garnished with greens and a star, but was a touch overcooked. He gobbled it up, and said it was still pretty good.

Caramelized Onion Soup

Jumbo Bacon Scallops

My herb chipotle crusted whitefish filet ($26) was a bit disappointing – though the fish was nicely cooked, where I was expecting a hard shell, I was met with more of a pesto-like robe on the fish. Moreover, the beurre blanc was unappetizingly sour, to the point where I could have done without the sauce all together. I loved the balsamic glaze on the sweet potato fries though – the sauce made it more like a treat than a side.

Herb Chipotle Crusted Whitefish

Mack’s grilled arctic char ($34) was more of a success – the caper aioli was the perfect accompaniment. Mack also loved the crispy potato chips on his plate.

Grilled Arctic Char

Everyone else around the table seemed to enjoy their dishes (dishes were definitely over-sauced though), and despite the fact that the entire restaurant was serviced by just a single waitress, the kitchen was speedy and we weren’t left waiting long for our food. It is also worth noting that the restaurant was quite accommodating towards a gluten allergy in our party.

Bison Ribeye with Chimichurri Sauce

Beef Striploin with Brandy Madagascar Sauce

Grilled Seafood Stuffed Salmon Filet with Pesto Sour Cream

It was a nice night overall at Fuego, with wonderful ambiance provided by the live entertainment, and good company. Decent food, but I can’t say I would recommend it as a destination.

Fuego
4915 50th Street, Yellowknife
(867) 873-3750
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:30pm; Dinner: Monday-Saturday 5-10pm

Food Notes for December 28, 2009

I hope everyone had a good Christmas! We seemed to leave Edmonton at the worst time, just as the city was warming up! And though it’s not as cold as it could be here in Yellowknife, it’s still pretty darn chilly. A quick post of this week’s food notes:

  • I liked Liane’s article about upcoming food trends published this past week for the most part, but it should have read with a caveat that Edmonton tends to be way behind in embracing the trends, especially for her sidebar about trends that are “gone” – pork belly, cupcakes and finishing salts are still firmly entrenched in our city. I also had to chuckle at the quote from Dana McCauley about S’Mac, one of the mac and cheese restaurants  in New York – it’s been around for a few years now.
  • Chris has a great round up of the decade in food.
  • Many people were shocked when they read Liane’s post that Tree Stone owner Nancy Rubuliak has sold her beloved bakery to a couple originally from Montreal. I am glad the new owners said they will be keeping many of the same products, and are looking at installing a wood burning oven to recreate Montreal-style bagels.
  • Liane also had a preview of the cover of The Tomato, the newly-named City Palate magazine, which will hit the newsstands on January 2, 2010.
  • Both the Journal and Vue Weekly filed rave reviews for the Hardware Grill’s newly minted lunch menu. I can’t wait to check it out with the gift card from Mack’s parents – thanks again!
  • Interesting gadgets I read about this week: the first sous vide machine for the home cook (retails at $450 US), and an all-in-one Cuisinart Soup Maker, which combines a blender with a heating element.
  • I met up with Dickson for lunch at Dahlia’s Mediterranean Bistro in the High Street area last week. They don’t have an extensive menu (soups, sandwiches, and the like), but the interior is clean and the service is friendly. I had a late breakfast that day, so decided to order their last cup of lentil soup ($3.95) – it was delicious, and the addition of rice was a nice touch. Dickson had a chicken breast sandwich with spinach-basil pesto, roasted peppers and melted mozzarella. He said it was all right, but nothing special. Apparently they get their smoked meat sent from Montreal – I’d love to go back and try it.

 

Lentil Soup of the Day

 

Chicken Breast Sandwich

  • Mack and I finally decided to cook up the Greens, Eggs and Ham turkey bombs for my family that we had been saving in our freezer. Turkey breasts stuffed with orange-cranberry stuffing, it is the perfect seasonal dish for someone like me who is afraid of preparing a whole turkey. Unfortunately, we overcooked them, but they were still pretty good.

 

Turkey Bombs

  • My family doesn’t really have any Christmas Day traditions besides opening presents together in the morning. Sometimes after that, we end up at Denny’s for breakfast, for an early movie, or like this year, for dim sum. It was a packed house at Dynasty Century Palace – I haven’t been there for dim sum in a while, but I can see why it was so busy – almost all items are priced at $3.25. Quality-wise, we were pretty disappointed, but I was happy we were able to have another meal together.

 

My family at dim sum

 

Me and Mack

Have a great New Year’s eve, everyone!

Local Gift Basket of Possibilities

Mack and I made it to Yellowknife, despite arriving to the gate ten minutes after our scheduled flight time – the line-up to get through security was madness! It’s colder here than in Edmonton, but there is more daylight than I expected (around 5 hours). No photos to share yet, as we had a pretty low-key day relaxing at Mack’s parents’ house. It’s not a bad way to start a vacation though!

We exchanged presents this afternoon with Mack’s family – thanks again Kim, Shane, Thom, Martin and Patti for the gifts! I originally didn’t know what to buy Mack’s parents, but I remembered Jennifer Crosby’s idea of putting together a basket of locally-accrued food items. It seemed like a good way to share some uniquely Edmonton products, so a few weeks back, we started to assemble it. We ended up with this:

Basket of locally-purveyed goods

It contains:

Martin and Patti appreciated the gift, but I have to say, I really enjoyed looking for things that I thought they might enjoy. And though we restricted ourselves to items purchased at local businesses, it was fairly easy to find the variety that we did.

Hope everyone had a good Christmas!