Recap: Northern Chicken Pop-up @ Dovetail Deli

Restaurant pop-ups are still alive and well in Edmonton, showcasing everything from entrepreneurial concepts to collaborations with out-of-town chefs. Personally, my favourite pop-ups remain those that function as testing grounds for new ideas – they feel more raw and honest, with chefs putting out their heart and soul with the hope of being embraced by Edmontonians. Prairie Noodle is the most successful example of this, launching their brick and mortar shop after a series of sold-out pop-ups to test flavour profiles and their contemporary take on ramen.

Northern Chicken is the most recent pop-up of this nature, beget by the industrious chefs Andrew Cowan (of Packrat Louie and formerly of Century Hospitality Group) and Matt Phillips (most recently of Century Hospitality Group). The duo’s Northern Chicken celebrates comfort food done right, focusing on fried chicken and all the fixings.

Chefs Matt Phillips and Andrew Cowan

Their first pop-up took place at Dovetail Deli on Sunday, and the weather couldn’t have been better. Mack and I took advantage of the sunshine and walk over to 124 Street, and upon arrival, was greeted by a (thankfully) fast-moving line.

Hungry for fried chicken!

It was great to see many other chefs in attendance to support Northern Chicken, include Blair Lebsack from neighbouring RGE RD, Paul Shufelt (formerly of Century Hospitality and currently at Workshop Eatery), Levi Biddlecomb (of food truck Attila the Hungry, and fresh off his own pop-up at the nearby Prairie Noodle). Avenue Calgary Magazine recently conducted an interview with several Calgary chefs who spoke very highly of their collaborative, supportive food community, and I’m fairly certain something similar could be said of the scene in Edmonton.

At any rate, the menu was short and sweet – the choice between Matt’s fried or Andrew’s spicy chicken, a fried chicken sandwich, and sides of bacon truffled cream corn, Doritos mac and cheese, and coleslaw. Apple and buttermilk pies also tempted on the counter.

Mack and I both opted for the fried chicken sandwich ($9), and chose to share a side of mac and cheese ($8). We grabbed a couple of cold drinks and took our takeaway order outside to the picnic tables down the street.

We were most impressed by the size of the sandwich, with a hefty piece of breaded white meat, between a housemade sourdough bun, pickles, slaw and spicy mayo. We found the breading to be crispy, sealing in the juices of the meat. I also loved the thick slices of pickles for texture and taste. Our only critique was dense sourdough bun – we appreciated that it held up nicely, but our preference is for a more yielding type of bread.

Fried chicken sandwich

The Doritos mac and cheese didn’t quite live up to its name – we were expecting a very obvious dusting of chips on top, or somehow visually integrated into the pasta. But besides the vibrant orange of the mac, we were left with an aftertaste we couldn’t quite place.

Doritos mac and cheese

It’s great to see more concepts bubble up in Edmonton. I wish Chefs Andrew and Matt all the best as Northern Chicken comes closer to fruition. Follow them on Twitter to find out about their next event!

Get Your Bacon On: Bacon Feast at Pampa

Pampa just celebrated their fifth anniversary in Edmonton, so it’s safe to say rodizio-style dining is here to stay. While it was never a surprise that a meat-centric restaurant would be a success in the city, I know I did wonder how much repeat business they could garner, given the single-meal extravagance at its core. Even Mack and I, who are far from being vegetarian, have found ourselves adopting meatless meals in the wake of visits to Pampa.

The Grill at Pampa

At any rate, meat lovers will rejoice with the return of Pampa’s second annual Bacon Feast. An enhancement to their regular menu, $14.95 on top of the $49.95 per person cost grants diners access to an additional two types of bacon-wrapped meat as well as a bacon-infused dessert.

Bacon-infused vodka Caesar

To give it a try, Linda convened several members of the local food community for a complimentary tasting, and Mack and I were fortunate enough to be included. It confirmed again the fact that Pampa is more fun when enjoyed with a large party. The theatrical style of dining, involving servers who rotate through the room with spears of meat for table side carving extends to its drink menu as well. This was the first time we experienced the heightened pour of Licor 43, a spirit crafted with a combination of 43 herbs and spices. The server stood atop a step stool and successfully filled a shot glass on the table from above. You can bet this commanded the attention of surrounding groups.

Pampa’s signature shot

Part of the fun of Pampa is cycling through the ten (or in our case, twelve) different cuts of beef, chicken, lamb and pork to find your favourite . Our fellow diner Sharman had a great tip to minimize the gluttony of this process – Mack and I shared what was dubbed a "meat plate", so we could more easily share tastes of the meat offerings without filling up on them right away. She also pointed us to some of the dipping sauces available at the salad bar.

Speaking of the salad bar, there were a number of hot entrees to choose from that I didn’t recall from previous visits. My favourite was a deeply flavoured black bean stew that doubled as another sauce option.

After sampling all of the cuts, Mack returned to the medium rare rump steak a few times. I enjoyed the bacon-enhanced meat – including the bacon-wrapped chicken on the regular rotation, but also the bacon-wrapped boneless veal leg on the feature menu. The other Bacon Feast option of the marinated crispy pork belly, with its luscious layer of fat, was also a crowd favourite.

Crispy pork belly

The Bacon Feast dessert was a warm chocolate cake with bacon-infused caramel, vanilla bean ice cream and caramalized bacon bits. The cake was well-made, rich and dense, but the bacon seemed like an afterthought instead of a critical component.

Chocolate petite gateau

The $75 per person price tag is difficult to account for based on food alone, but then again, dining out is never exclusive to consumables. The service accounts for much of the value as well, and as in previous visits, was again commendable. Our server was game for the table’s shenanigans, and made the evening light and fun.

Linda in a meat coma

For those seeking more intimate knowledge of Pampa, they will be offering eight person 3 hour classes starting in April. They will share "trade secrets" of grilling with charcoal, and hands-on instruction of meat-stuffed bread, Feijoada (the aforementioned black bean stew) and guava cheesecake. The cost is $119 per person – call Pampa to book a spot.

Thanks to Linda for the invitation, and to Pampa for hosting us! Bacon Feast runs for the month of April. Check out Linda and Sharman’s recaps about our meal as well.

Pampa
9929 109 Street
(780) 756-7030
Lunch – Monday-Friday 11:30am-1:30pm; Dinner – Monday-Thursday 5-9pm, Friday 5-10pm, Saturday 3-10pm, Sunday 4-8pm; Brunch – 11am-2pm

Recap: Saturday Brunch Pop-Up at Get Cooking

In the last year, there has been an increase in the number of non-traditional venues hosting brunch. This includes Sailin’ On’s Breakfast Club at The Buckingham, and the fairly new Wild Heart Brunch Club at The Mercury Room. Another recent addition to the weekend scene is Get Cooking’s Brunch Pop-Ups.

They launched just over a month ago at the end of January, and seek to provide people with a relaxed opportunity to gather and socialize. It takes place every Saturday at noon, and based on our experience last week, it isn’t a meal you will rush through (we were there a total of 2.5 hours). Brunch at Get Cooking is meant to be savoured, and if you don’t know the folks around your communal table, you will by the end of the afternoon! Plus, the food we consumed was so rich we needed time between courses just to recuperate.

Mack and I were invited by Get Cooking to experience their brunch last weekend. We arrived just after noon to a nearly full house. For those who prefer one of the coveted island seats, I’d recommend arriving early to guarantee yourself a front row vantage point. Some of the kitchen action can be seen from other areas of the room on the TV monitors, but cooking tips and tricks (unlike other Get Cooking classes) are not the focus here. In fact, Chef Doreen Prei wasn’t miked, so she was difficult to hear above the din of social chatter. We did wander over to the stove every now and then, but the open kitchen was more of an incidental presence than a deliberate attraction. Personally, I would have appreciated more details about where the ingredients were sourced (even if only on a menu), but I was probably in the minority.

Chef Doreen Prei

The $45 ticket ($22.50 for kids aged 7-13) includes a tasting board, an amuse, four courses, coffee or tea and a welcome cocktail. The cocktail was served family-style in a generous punch bowl – Ann’s Garden Punch was an easy-to-drink combination of pineapple-infused rum, lemon, almond syrup, sumac, mint, cucumber and strawberries.

Ann’s Garden Punch

It might have been a small detail, but Mack and I appreciated that the coffee, made with Iconoclast-roasted beans, kept coming. Staff ensured the French presses at our table were refreshed as necessary, and the milk for coffee was even thoughtfully warmed.

Before the hot courses arrived, we were invited to sip our drinks and fill up our plates at their tasting board. Changing weekly, the selections that day included margarita scones (served with compote and cream), and a variety of cheeses and charcuterie.

Tasting boards

Chef Prei’s amuse bouche consisted of shot glasses of Gold Forest Grains steel cut oats, bits of chorizo, and a garnish of whipped cream, blueberries and pistachios. I’ve never been a fan of oatmeal, but the addition of chorizo was genius – the fat and flavour boost has made me reconsider this breakfast option.

Steel cut oats with chorizo, whipped cream, blueberries and pistachios

Ricotta fritters, served on beautiful table-length wooden planks, were a delight to eat, lightly battered, fried, and accompanied by a tomato and orange jam.

Ricotta fritters

Eggs made their appearance in the next course – poached over smoked salmon and a delectable potato rosti and bernaise. Chef Prei shared her secret for poaching eggs: a splash of vinegar and vigorous whisking of the water prior to slipping the eggs in, as the motion helps draw the whites in around the yolk.

Eggs benedict with smoked salmon and potato rosti

My favourite dish was one I would never order on my own at brunch – a beer-marinated flank steak with greens, a German bread dumpling and mushroom sauce. The beef was perfectly medium rare, and the dumpling, pan-fried in butter, was delicious.

Beer-marinated flank steak with greens and a German bread dumpling

Dessert combined hot and cold elements: fried brioche rolled in lavender sugar with a brandy chocolate drizzle plus a white chocolate elderflower parfait.

Fried brioche and white chocolate elderflower parfait

As a whole, the meal at Get Cooking featured some of the most refined dishes I’ve ever had at brunch. As everything was made fresh, it does distinguish itself from the buffet-style brunches aligned by price alone. In this case, the ticket price is justified based on the quality and unique nature of the dishes. And because of the ever-changing menu, this brunch stays true to its pop-up inspiration.

Up close and personal with plating

Thanks again to Kathryn and Liv for the invitation! If you’re interested in trying their brunch, make sure to reserve online in advance, or stay tuned to their Twitter account for information about seats available on the day of.

Get Cooking
11050 104 Avenue
(780) 934-8058

Check out Athena’s review of the same brunch experience here.

A Place to Gather: Juniper Cafe & Bistro

Though Edmonton is most known-for its trendy restaurant districts – Downtown, 124 Street, Old Strathcona – the hidden gems buried within residential neighbourhoods are often the unsung heroes of our city. They are natural gathering places in areas where they might be few and far between, and provide a reason for residents to stay close to home. For me, it’s an excuse to explore a neighbourhood I might be less familiar with, pockets no less important in a city as diverse as Edmonton.

Juniper is one of the more recent low-key restaurant arrivals. While there have been a few reviews since it opened in November 2015, it’s still under the radar. On a Friday visit for dinner last month, we were told that the dining room, half-full, was one of their busier evenings.

Juniper took over the space formerly occupied by the infamous Strathearn Pub. While I hadn’t been to its previous incarnation, I imagine the space looks nothing like it once did, now with a wide open room and a built-in play space for little ones. Juniper’s defining feature is the counter, welcoming with displays of coffee, baked goods and tempting desserts. Juniper serves up three meals a day Wednesday to Saturday (and brunch on Sundays).

Mack

Their dinner menu is based on the idea of sharing family-style plates, a way of eating that Mack and I really enjoy. We started with the chorizo queso fundido ($8) in lieu of the sold-out steamed buns with hoisin duck. While the queso fundido did arrive piping hot with devilishly stringy cheese, if you’ve had the same dish from Rostizado (which yes, is double the price), it’s hard to compare. It’s a version not dissimilar from what you might craft at home, but in this kid-friendly context, is probably a good dish to have on the menu.

Queso fundido

The next two plates were fine, but over promised and under delivered. The roasted spuds with Indian spices ($12) needed to be "kicked up a notch", in Mack’s words. Even with the addition of duck gravy and cheese, they were much too mild in flavour.

Roasted spuds with Indian spices

The spicy meatballs on polenta ($16) was our favourite dish. The meatballs and polenta were well-prepared, but similar to the potatoes, the heat level didn’t live up to its name at all.

Spicy meatballs on polenta

Service was friendly, and we never felt rushed as we lingered over our coffee. Though we didn’t have dessert, I did pick up a cookie to take home, and after enjoying it wished I had the foresight to purchase more.

Overall, while Juniper didn’t quite reach the level of elevated comfort food, we are open to returning. They told us they are known for brunch, and their menu on the outset looks appealing. I hope they are able to refine some of their dishes to better meet diner expectations.

Juniper Cafe & Bistro
9514 87 Street
(780) 490-6799
Wednesday-Friday 8am-8pm, Saturday 8am-9pm, Sunday 10am-2pm, closed Monday-Tuesday

With a Side of History: Sunday Brunch at Fort Edmonton Park

Fort Edmonton Park is easily my favourite City of Edmonton attraction. I’m a sucker for amusements, and the 1920s midway at Fort Edmonton is one of the city’s best kept secrets. In the off-season, however, the Park operates on a limited basis – Capitol Theatre screens vintage films, Hotel Selkirk offers temporary accommodation year-round, and Johnson’s Café (located in Hotel Selkirk) hosts a special brunch every Sunday.

Mack and I were invited by Fort Edmonton Park to try their Sunday Brunch last weekend. Before settling on driving to the Park, we did explore public transit options (especially given the Park lends its name to an LRT stop). The closest we could get on a Sunday, however, was a bus ride from, ironically, University station followed by a 21 minute walk.

Hotel Selkirk

Reservations are taken for seatings every half hour from 10:30am until 1pm. By the time we arrived for our noon reservation, we found Johnson’s Cafe nearly full, made up of small parties of two and larger groups of families with small children.

From the outset, the meal was of good value, food-wise, and more than justified $32.95 cost for adults (seniors tickets are $27.95 and children 4-12 are $19.95). We were told that over the years, the brunch selection has increased significantly, from occupying one corner of the dining room to now taking up the hotel lobby in its entirety.

Omelette station

The Sunday brunch buffet spread spanned breakfast, lunch and dessert options. We started off with breakfast, taking full advantage of the omelette station, plump breakfast sausages and fantastically crispy bacon. We didn’t sample the eggs benedict, as it was doubtful the yolks would remain runny in the chafing dishes, but I did really enjoy the Parmesan grilled tomatoes.

Breakfast for two

We returned to sample the lunch choices, which included several cold salads, cheeses and charcuterie, seasonal vegetables, pasta, pork loin in a pineapple sauce, grilled chicken, and a carving station offering up nicely marbled beef brisket with a peppercorn jus.

Carving station

To be frank, I saved up the most room for dessert. I was most impressed with the dessert selection, highlighted by a showstopping red velvet cake and a deliciously moist spinach and beet cake (the green layers were vibrant without any noticeable spinach flavour). I was also drawn to the pineapple upside down cake, decadently served with a side of cream, and the notion of lavender and apple shooters, an interesting alternative to alcoholic shots. Mack was drawn to the kid-friendly desserts, including Rice Krispie treats and mini cupcakes.

Desserts!

Service was fantastic throughout – there were numerous staff ensuring the food stations were constantly refilled, while the dining room staff checked in with us constantly, topping up our coffee and water without request.

After brunch, we wandered 1905 and 1920 Streets, peering into windows and enjoying the scenic facades on a sunny winter afternoon. In the summer, brunch includes admission to the Park, which operates May until September. On that warm day, we couldn’t help but wonder why Fort Edmonton couldn’t be a year-round attraction, or at least one with a season extended beyond one-off events like Christmas Reflections and Easter hunts.

Visiting with the horses at Mellon Farm

As a part of the Winter City Strategy, the Park has built-in warming stations in its indoor facilities, and could easily replace train and streetcar transportation with horse-drawn wagon rides (an attraction that operates now, but is only available to groups). It would also be a great way to educate people about how Edmontonians in previous eras worked to stay warm.

1920 Street

Mack and I both agreed that while we enjoyed our brunch experience at Hotel Selkirk, because it required a trip to Fort Edmonton without the promise of visiting the attraction as a whole, we would be more likely to return during the summer months when it could be combined with the operational Park.

Of note, because we did commit to driving to the Park, we detoured to finally check out the Alfred H. Savage Centre, located on the opposite side of Fox Drive from Fort Edmonton (accessible through the Whitemud Park turnoff). It’s a lovely facility with restrooms that functions as a warm-up centre for the adjacent toboggan hill (marked as "closed" that day, in spite of all of the families out enjoying the beautiful day). Consider walking off the sumptuous meal with a jaunt in the trails, as we did.

At Whitemud Park

Thanks again to Fort Edmonton Park for hosting us! The Winter Sunday Brunch series runs until March 27, 2016.

Check out Linda’s review of Sunday brunch here.

Eat Your Heart Out: Love Pizza

If there was ever a restaurant named just for Mack, it would be called Love Pizza. When we’re meal planning for the following week, his consistent answer for dishes to add on the list is “pizza”. It’s also the single item he would commit to eating for the rest of his life if he was forced to pick just one. So in many ways, Love Pizza was the perfect place for us to end up on Valentine’s Day, given Mack’s affection for pizza.

In the past, Mack and I have written about our reluctance to dine out on Valentine’s Day, particularly as it relates to the perceived lack of value and an inability to live up to expectations. But on that night, we couldn’t bring ourselves to cook. Plus, in an unlikely twist, Love Pizza was actually offering a deal of half off a second pizza, almost unheard of on an occasion where the opposite is more likely to occur. Given the origins of the restaurant, however – a first date for the owners at a local pizzeria that led to love – it’s a fitting way to celebrate a day all about love.

Famoso, a quick-serve pizza concept, has grown in the ten years since its debut in Edmonton to more than two dozen locations in Alberta, BC, Saskatchewan and Ontario. Last year, the folks behind Sabor Divino opened Urbano, a fast-casual pizzeria focused on customizable pies ready in under two minutes. Love Pizza is the latest to embrace this build-your-own trend (including offering a gluten-free crust), and opened up in the Canterra Centre (10196 109 Street) on January 29, 2016.

Walking in to Love Pizza that night, we found the restaurant half full. The former tanning salon has been transformed into a cafeteria-style dining room, where orders are placed and picked up along the counter. We were both impressed by the fully-developed nature of the concept – everything from the signage to the menu had obviously been thought through to the point where we almost thought Love Pizza belonged to a franchise.

Love Pizza

In addition to the ability to create your own pie, Love Pizza also offers ten signature creations ($11.95 each), as well as a limited number of salads and desserts. They source some ingredients locally, including Gold Forest Grains flour for their whole wheat crust, Irvings Farm Fresh bacon and Spolumbo’s Italian sausage. I did appreciate the fact that toppings were differentiated from “finishes” – ingredients that are added after baking (it never made sense to me why Famoso would always choose to incinerate fresh basil on their margarita pizzas). That night, we chose to order the Meatatarian and the Old MacDonald on regular crust.

Counter

The pizzas were assembled in front of us with an obvious amount of care by very personable staff. They were then placed in an oven that promised a fully baked pizza in three minutes. We were told that the restaurant is working on installing a hood fan; the smoke wasn’t particularly noticeable that evening, but on a subsequent visit we definitely smelled like smoke after dinner.

Order up

Love Pizza understands that we all eat with our eyes first – their pizzas are some of the most photogenic I’ve ever encountered. They also didn’t skimp on the toppings, especially with the cheese. The crust is sturdy but nicely chewy, earning a thumbs up from Mack.

Old MacDonald

I enjoyed the Meatatarian, featuring a tomato sauce base with fior di latte, pepperoni, capicolla, Spolumbo’s Italian sausage and shaved parmesan. Mack’s pick of the Old MacDonald layered spicy tomato sauce with fior di latte, two eggs, Spolumbo’s Italian sausage, spinach, shaved parmesan and a drizzle of chili oil. Both pizzas had a ton of flavour from the toppings and a great diversity of texture.

Meatatarian

Based on the food, reasonable prices, and a relaxed atmosphere, Love Pizza just may have become our go-to pizzeria Downtown. They even have a loyalty program offering $5 off your next purchase. It’s a great concept, one that works for people looking for a quick bite during the day or those hoping to unwind in the evening. I hope they are successful and can maintain the quality in the long run.

Love Pizza
10196 109 Street
(587) 520-9734
Monday to Sunday 11am – 10pm

Celebrating the International Year of Pulses with Alberta Pulse

The UN General Assembly declared 2016 as the International Year of Pulses, highlighting their affordability, nutritional value and sustainability. As nearly 10% of Alberta’s crop acres are dedicated to growing pulses, it is a good time to promote this commodity at home.

Mack and I were invited to attend a recent event hosted by the Canadian Association of Foodservice Professionals (CAFP) at NAIT celebrating this hallmark year for pulses. The CAFP is a national organization that represents chefs, hospitality representatives, food manufacturers and nutritionists, among others. Local branches host learning opportunities for their members, including visits to area food production facilities. In February, in collaboration with Alberta Pulse, the Edmonton branch explored the topic of pulses.

CAFP at Ernest’s

It’s a subject I’ve been learning more about in the kitchen for a few years now. After reading Mark Bittman’s Food Matters more than five years ago (his mission was to encourage more conscious consumption of non-meat proteins), I was inspired to start including more beans and lentils in our diet. In 2011, Julie Van Rosendaal and Sue Duncan’s cookbook, Spilling the Beans, was released, becoming one of our go-to guides for meal inspirations. Now, pulses have just become a part of our regular rotation, both as a meat alternative but also to enhance soups, salads and mains, stretching the meal all while adding nutrients. At this point, our pantry and freezer would feel bare without having some variety of pulses on hand.

Allison Ammeter

That said, the presentations that evening were informative, especially to provide a local context. Farmer and chair of the Alberta Pulse Board, Allison Ammeter, shared the following:

Lentils fix their own nitrogen in the soil, meaning a reduced need for fertilizer when used as a part of a regular crop rotation;
Most pulses use less water, particularly peas and lentils, which is great for drought-prone regions; and
Pulses leave the soil better than it was – wheat grows better on pulse stubble.

Alberta grows a variety of pulses: primarily peas (green, yellow, marrowfat), but also beans (great northern, black, cranberry, pink, small red), lentils (red, green) and chickpeas. And though most are familiar with whole pulses, they can be purchased as flour products as well.

It’s also an unfortunate reality that it’s not easy to locate "product of Alberta" pulses. Unless it is packaged in the province, even locally-grown products end up with a broader "product of Canada" label. Perhaps in the grand scheme of things, it doesn’t matter if it lists the growing province, but it does make it more difficult for those hoping to source their food as locally as possible (thankfully in Edmonton, Gold Forest Grains does sell excellent organic red lentils). As the Minister of Agriculture was present that evening, I was hoping that some advocacy might have happened on the need for more production facilities in the province.

Debra McLennan

Debra McLennan from Alberta Pulse shared some nutritional facts of pulses:

They are gluten-free and vegetarian;
They are low in fat, and protein-packed (curiously, in Australia, legumes are classified as a vegetable when a 1/2 cup is served, but as a meat alternative when 3/4 cup is served);
They are an excellent source of folate and are high in fibre; and
They are beneficial in reducing "bad" cholesterol.

Pulses are also relatively light on the wallet, costing significantly less when compared with meat sources of protein. In the context of rising food prices, affecting everyone from consumers at home to restaurant operators, this spotlight on pulses couldn’t come at a better time.

In collaboration with the chefs at Ernest’s, Debra designed the evening’s menu to highlight the many sides of pulses. To start, we enjoyed a duo of yellow split pea soup and a pork croquette which used a white bean purée to bind the meat.

Duo of yellow split pea soup and pork croquette

The entrée was a pan-roasted chicken served with a lentil and rice pilaf. The chicken was very well-prepared, and the pilaf tasty enough, but it was a missed opportunity not to highlight pulses as the main event (Indian-inspired dal, or falafel, for instance).

Pan roasted herbed breast of chicken

For dessert, we were treated to a lentil fudge pie. The pie incorporated a red lentil purée that could not be detected, taste-wise, and with the added nutrients, it’s almost a guilt-free dessert. That recipe can be found online at the Alberta Pulse website.

Lentil fudge pie

If you’re interested in learning more about pulses, check out more recipes at pulses.org, and consider taking the pulse pledge – all it takes is committing to eating a half cup of pulses per week.

Thanks to the CAFP and Alberta Pulse for having us!

Sustainable in Summerside: Workshop Eatery

Cards Against Urbanity is a spin off of the wildly popular game called Cards Against Humanity, with all sorts of urban planning humour imbedded within. One of the phrases that stuck with me was, "A LEED Certified building in the middle of nowhere." I immediately thought of that card when I visited the Mosaic Centre.

Mosaic Centre

A LEED certified building on the current edge of our city, the Mosaic Centre has been lauded as a pristine example of sustainability. While there’s no doubt that it is a beautiful facility – a ton of natural light, a living wall and an open design that encourages connectivity – it is unfortunately quite isolated, adjacent to a residential neighbourhood and not much else. Something needs to be said about its location – if everyone visiting the site drives in (as many do, as there is only one bus that services it at the moment), doesn’t it take away from its net zero status?

Mosaic Centre interior

But then again, the focus of this post isn’t about the building, it’s about the restaurant located on its main floor. Workshop Eatery is Chef Paul Shufelt’s first solo establishment, opened after ten years leading the kitchens of the Century Hospitality Group. How it came to be was in some ways a happy accident – a conversation about the possibilities of a space in a green building. Paul was drawn to the opportunity to put down his own roots, including literal roots into the ground in an adjacent garden to supply the restaurant. It was also a chance to enhance the relationships with local producers that he had started over the past few years, but were ultimately more difficult to manage within the complexities of a group of restaurants.

Chef Paul Shufelt

There are many ways to be sustainable, and though I’m somewhat skeptical of the Mosaic Centre as a whole, Workshop Eatery could help bring some awareness to an area of the city where there are fewer independent restaurants and establishments that promote an eat local philosophy. Besides utilizing the honey captured from the building’s rooftop bee hives, Paul and his staff spent much of the fall canning and preserving vegetables harvested from local farmers, hoping that the inventory of 400 jars will last into the spring. The plan from May to October is for the menu to feature at least one dish made with an item picked fresh from the front yard garden.

Interior

Before Christmas, some friends and I met up at Workshop Eatery for brunch on a Sunday. Two of those friends live in Summerside, so were particularly optimistic to see what their new neighbour had to offer. The first impressions were positive – we loved the high ceilings, the abundance of windows, and the accessibility of the open kitchen. That natural light extended into the kitchen itself – most staff working in galley-type spaces would been green-eyed at the sight.

Workshop Eatery has quite a varied menu for brunch, with a dozen dishes to choose from. It does have something for everyone, including vegetarians and those who lean towards more hearty lunch offerings instead of breakfast. I settled on the chorizo & chedda’ omelette ($17) while Mack selected the traditional eggs benedict ($17). Our only letdown on the menu side is a brunch pet peeve of ours, though we understand the space and equipment requirements – Workshop only serves espresso-based drinks, while Mack and I much prefer drip coffee in the mornings. We make do with Americanos, but it just isn’t quite the same.

Chorizo & chedda’ omelette

At any rate, the service was fantastic throughout our meal, attentive and much more polished than we would have expected from a newly-opened restaurant. We also thoroughly enjoyed the food, and appreciated the use of local products, such as Four Whistle Farm eggs. I thought the chorizo omelette packed a lot of flavour, and I appreciated the added dimension of a potato hash on the side as opposed to more plain potatoes. Mack had no complaints about his eggs benedict, with the eggs poached soft as requested.

Traditional eggs benedict

Before we left, we were eyeing up some of the dinner items – among them the ricotta and potato stuffed perogies and the cleverly named duck duck couscous (which Paul had no qualms telling us it was a name he borrowed from Farrow Sandwiches). We know we’ll be back at some point, but given it isn’t in our neck of the woods, it might be some time before we find an excuse to visit Summerside again.

Workshop Eatery
2003 91 Street SW
(780) 705-2205
Monday-Wednesday 11am-10pm, Thursday-Friday 11am-11pm, Saturday 10am-3pm and 5-11pm, Sunday 10am-3pm and 5-9pm

Room to Improve: Daravara

After work one evening before Christmas, I hopped on the bus to meet Mack for dinner. We had been hoping to finally try Relish, but upon arrival, found that they were closed for a private function. Undaunted, we considered our other options, as 124 Street offers an abundance of choices. We eventually settled on Daravara (10713 124 Street) just across the street.

Unlike many other bars in Edmonton, Daravara seems to have bucked the trend of maximizing seating in favour of generous spacing between furnishings and a games area. As a result, the vibe seemed much more relaxed and casual than some similar establishments. It was easy to see how Daravara could become the go-to watering hole for locals in the area, especially with their very reasonable prices for beer and wine.

The bar at Daravara

Since reading about their burger offering, Daravara has been on our list of restaurants to visit. But it seems that their menu has been overhauled since that time. In spite of that, I thought the menu as a whole had much to choose from, including a variety of tacos, sandwiches, and appetizers (I saved the popcorn chicken hearts for another time). That night, I settled on the beer cheese burger ($14), while Mack chose the waffle clubhouse ($15).

Mack

Service was good throughout, and the kitchen, in spite of a near full-house, was on point, and we didn’t have to wait long for our plates to arrive. That said, the flavours could have been better. My burger, served with house-made beer cheese, secret sauce and lettuce, tomato and caramelized onion, had an underseasoned patty, and was unremarkable.

Beer cheese burger with poutine

Mack’s clubhouse, with house-smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato and ranch dressing, would have benefited from additional texture. The cheddar cheese waffles were not crispy, and the chicken in this case was grilled, not fried.

Waffle clubhouse with werewolf fries

On the side, I upgraded to a poutine (additional $2.50). The fries were freshly fried and spiced in a way that reminded me of Drift’s house seasoning. But the miso gravy wasn’t my favourite – while there was a noticeable miso base, I didn’t enjoy the saccharine aftertaste. Mack’s substitution of werewolf fries (additional $2.50) were overwhelmingly spicy for him, featuring chipotle cheese, malt vinegar, hot sauce and green onions.

There are still some items on the menu we’d like to try in the future, so though we were hoping for more from Daravara on our first visit, we will be back again in the future.

Daravara
10713 124 Street
(587) 520-4980
Tuesday-Thursday 11:30am-midnight, Friday-Saturday 11am-2am, Sunday 11am-5pm, closed Mondays

Epicureous in Edmonton: 2015 Year in Review

Trends, especially in Edmonton, can take several years to take root. And in putting these summaries together, I’m reminded of how, in many ways, the calendar year is just an arbitrary measure of time.

Several third wave cafes like Coffee Bureau sprouted in 2015

But we are fortunate to live in a community where there is an ever-increasing number of people who care about the food they grow, prepare, or serve, so it’s our duty to acknowledge and appreciate these changes, even if they sometimes seem incremental and small.

Here’s what was notable to me in 2015:

The independent dining scene in St. Albert came into its own this year, attracting attention with openings like farm-to-table restaurant 12 Acres, Buco, Sorrentino’s first pizza and wine bar, and a second location of Chef Andrew Fung’s much-lauded Nineteen. Closely tied in was the continued rise of independent suburban establishments, such as Cured and Workshop Eatery.
In Central Edmonton, we gained a number of third wave cafes: Coffee Bureau, Lockstock, Rogue Wave Coffee, Bru and Barking Buffalo. Nomad Espresso also started operations as the city’s first mobile coffee cart.
While I don’t think we’ve quite hit “peak ramen” in the Capital Region just yet, it was a banner year for the noodles, with the fervor for the opening of Prairie Noodle Shop exceeding expectations.
While Japanese-inspired ramen may be the hottest #yegfood item at the close of 2015, Edmonton experienced a Korean wave this year, with Nongbu, Tofu House, It’ All and Daore joining the fold.
The humble sandwich is also alive and well, with inspired and tasty offerings available from Sandwich and Sons, Dovetail Deli, The Local Omnivore, and even an outpost of Calgary-based Chachi’s at West Edmonton Mall.
We did lose a few notable establishments this year, including Unheardof and Happy Garden. On the side of food retail, Mother’s Market closed after a year of operation.
Crowdfunding projects aren’t new to the local food scene (Creole Envie embraced it to jumpstart a trip to the Taste of Edmonton in 2014), but it took on life this year, with a successful Kickstarter campaign for Chartier, a forthcoming French-Canadian restaurant in Beaumont. Prairie Noodle Shop and regional restaurant/social justice project The Alder Room also tried to raise online backers.
Edmontonians love competitions – the Canadian Food Championships were newly installed in 2015 by Events Edmonton, and Get Cooking’s wildly popular Edmonton Food Fight began in February. Several local chefs including Shane Chartrand and David Omar also appeared on national food programs like Chopped and Masterchef.
When we started Eat Alberta back in 2011, opportunities to develop food skills were isolated to often pricey one-off classes. In 2015, with the Dig In Festival in its second year, and the advent of the Edmonton Resilience Festival and Little Brick Home School, it’s great to see that chances for learning are becoming more widespread. On a related DIY note, City Council approved urban beekeeping in April.
2015 saw its share of pop-up dinners, some in unusual, unique locations. It’ll be interesting to see whether this trend can sustain itself, given the price associated with many of these events is steadily increasing.
It was great to see some local interpretations of the anti-food waste movement, such as the SalvagED pop-ups that made meals from otherwise discarded produce, and Reclaim Urban Farm’s sale of so-called “ugly” vegetables.

Onward to 2016!

You can check out previous year in reviews here.

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