Yellowknife Wanderings

While I can’t say I was thrilled when Mack and I decided that we would be spending a part of the holiday north of Edmonton, in the end, I was glad we went. Not only we were able to spend some quality time with his family, but I am also now able to appreciate Edmonton’s relatively milder temperatures (really, anything above –30 feels like a blessing) and generous amount of daylight.

We were able to explore the city somewhat – on dogsled, in a vehicle, and on foot. Because Martin and Patti live in the downtown core, we were able to walk to the nearby shopping centres and restaurants.

The street where Martin and Patti live

Ravens (even larger than the birds we encountered in Banff)

Thom helped orient us to the area

Centre Square Mall, one of the two shopping centres

In YK Centre, the other shopping centre, we found The Chocolatier, a specialty shop that makes all their own chocolate in-house. Though truffles are their specialty, I picked up a package of their Carnutzel (caramel covered pretzel then dipped in chocolate), while Mack decided on their chocolate-covered Rice Krispie squares. Mack’s squares ended up being the winner – the pretzel base needed to be thicker to stand up to all of the caramel used.

Inside The Chocolatier

We also encountered a store in YK Centre that was dedicated entirely to Ragged Ass Road, a cheekily named street. Martin and Patti eventually took us to the small unmarked residential roadway, but it was a bit anti-climactic (and hence, no photos).

To Ragged Ass Road

We also window shopped at the Gallery of the Midnight Sun, a lovely local boutique filled with handmade treasures. I had to take a photo of the furs for Amanda.

Furs and pelts

Of course, something I was also interested in was the grocery shops. While I knew most produce and items would be available in Yellowknife, the question was – how much would they cost? Luckily, I came across this post at YK Online, which saved me from taking pictures of basic goods myself. While groceries are not surprisingly more expensive, some things still left me with sticker shock, like a bag of grapefruit that was nearly $8.

Co-op

My favourite store in Yellowknife, and one that I could see myself shopping in if I ever lived there, was Le Stock Pot (how could you not love the name?). The owner of the kitchen supply store and deli also owns two restaurants in the city – Le Frolic and L’Heritage. Even though they were in the process of moving their kitchen supplies to a separate location, I still fell in love with their pantry, stocked with pretty bottles of balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and the like. And, never one to resist good bread, I picked up a baguette which I later consumed with butter. It was perfection.

Inside Le Stock Pot

The one restaurant I had some intention to visit was Bullocks, which some say serve the best fish in Canada. Much like other establishments in Yellowknife during the holidays, however, it was closed, and we ended up at the Vietnamese Noodle House instead. Who knew I would end up having pho in Yellowknife? It was all right, and did the job of warming me through, though the rare beef was a little tough.

Combination Beef Noodle Soup

As we were also in Yellowknife for the New Year, Patti took us to the fireworks show at Frame Lake. It was amusing to me that the show took place at 9:30 instead of midnight, but given how cold it was then, I was thankful for the early kick-off to 2010. Unlike in Edmonton, where the people setting off the fireworks are shielded by office towers, we were able to see the trio of men on the lake lighting off the rockets. The show almost felt intimate with a crowd of around 200, and the  fireworks themselves seemed larger, without any buildings in the way.

Fireworks

More fireworks

It ended with a bang!

On our last full day in Yellowknife, we checked some other things off of our tourist to-do list. First, it was up to Pilot Hill for some shots of the magnificent sunset, and the view from the top. Boy was it cold, but it was worth it.

Gorgeous sunset

Great Slave Lake

Looking toward the town

With Patti

Lastly, Martin took us to the ice road across Great Slave Lake which provide drivers with a shortcut to a small community across the Lake. We didn’t drive across, but it was pretty cool to see the ploughed snow roadway.

On the ice road

While we didn’t get to see any Northern Lights, we still got to experience many of the sights that make Yellowknife unique. Thanks again to Martin and Patti for their hospitality, and for making our stay special!

Mispon Winter Light Gala 2010

I was really excited to attend the kick-off event of this year’s Winter Light festival, Mispon Gala (mispon is “it’s snowing” in Cree). Based on last year’s evening of entertainment and food, I thought things could only get better, with Winter Light now in it’s second year.

Before entering City Hall, I walked past Churchill Square, expecting to find some outdoor activities similar to the previous year such as fire pits, light and lantern installations, or a snow maze. Unfortunately, the Square was bare.

All of the evening’s activity was concentrated at City Hall. Three fire pits had been set up around the ice rink, with some braving the cold playing around on the ice as we were leaving, but for the most part, everyone was indoors.

Outside City Hall

The ceremonies had just started when I arrived, with several festival event organizers taking their turn at the microphone to introduce their respective projects. After that, the audience was treated to a performance by Kristine Nutting’s Warm Up Burlesque – a cheeky, reverse burlesque that had the dancers pulling on layers of clothing. It was somewhat amusing, but not my cup of tea.

Krstine Nutting’s Warm Up Burlesque

To end off the night, Johnny Quazar and the Swingbots provided the musical backdrop as NAIT catering dished out comforting plates of food, including Big Rock Winter Spice Ale glazed meatballs and maple baked beans with sourdough crostini. Our favourite actually turned out to be the honey-scented bannock with Saskatoon marmalade – the bannock was sweet, with a lovely consistency similar to a scone.

Johnny Quazar and the Swingbogs

Bannock and Baked Beans

I was a little disappointed festival organizers didn’t go the route chosen last year – offering free hot chocolate to those who brought a reusable mug (I realize I should have brought a container for the food samples as well). I do think, however, that the more festivals remind us to bring containers with us, the better – it will eventually become habit.

In the City Room

As a whole, I was expecting more of the gala – more people, more excitement, more festivities. The tone seemed restrained this year, and as Mack noted, the lack of outdoor activities (for a festival that celebrates the cold season) was unfortunate. I am still looking forward to some of the upcoming events though, such as Ice on Whyte and the Silver Skate Festival. Check the website for more details.

No Caribou, No Problem: The Black Knight Pub

Mack and I ventured out into the Yellowknife cold (-42 with windchill) in the hopes of having lunch at Yummy Cafe. From the post on the lovely Life in the Knife blog, Yummy looked like my kind of place – family-run, cozy, offering fresh baked goods. Unfortunately, like many restaurants and businesses in Yellowknife, Yummy was closed not only during our visit, but for an entire month. We returned home, disappointed, and vowed to do some more research.

After consulting with Mack’s parents, we decided to visit The Black Knight Pub (and called to make sure it would actually be open on New Year’s Eve). The website revealed the promise of caribou burgers, and Mack was eager to have me try some “northern” type food.

It was actually pretty busy inside, though we had our choice of a handful of vacant tables. The Black Knight had the standard pub decor – a haphazard collection of flags, license plates, badges and the like dressing the walls.

Mack at The Black Knight

It took a few minutes for the waitress to acknowledge our existence, but given the number of patrons inside, we didn’t mind the wait. After perusing the menu of pub favourites, we asked about the seasonal caribou burger – unfortunately, the waitress told us that because of low caribou populations, a supply of meat was difficult to obtain, and a menu change was imminent. We accepted the bison burger ($15.50) alternative.

Mack’s only real complaint about The Black Knight was the beer – his pint of draft Kokanee was inexcusably thin – he compared it to beer-flavoured water. Had he known, he would have ordered a bottle instead.

Our orders arrived in good time, looking as good as they would ultimately taste. The edges of the patty were a tad charred, but it didn’t ruin an otherwise solid burger.

Bison Burger

As we were leaving, we heard the sound checks of a DJ upstairs, where Top Knight would be hosting a New Year’s Eve party later on – I’m sure it was quite the event. If you’re in town, The Black Knight Pub is a good, casual lunch option.

The Black Knight Pub
4910 49 Street, Yellowknife
(867) 920-4041

Food Notes for January 4, 2010

Mack and I made it back safely from Yellowknife on Sunday afternoon, just in time to watch the Canadian Juniors defeat Switzerland! Unfortunately, a volunteer commitment will prevent me from watching the final against the US (sniff), but Mack has faithfully agreed to update me via text. On to this week’s food notes:

  • Looks like Melting Pot, the US-based fondue chain, is targeting Valentine’s Day for its grand opening (117, 2920 Calgary Trail, next to Cora’s).
  • Lea’s handy site reports that popular Chinatown eatery Pho Tau Bay is closed January 3 – March 5, 2010.
  • In case you missed it, watch for Original Fare’s Fork Fest later this month, January 17-21 and 24-28. Hopefully the menus are released a bit earlier this time.
  • Local bloggers Chris at Eating is the Hard Part and Valerie at A Canadian Foodie started off the new year with new blogs. Go check them out!
  • Liane wrote a good piece on educating Edmonton about food, published last week.
  • Vue Weekly also had a wrap-up article – the best and worst trends of the last decade.
  • Besides being in the press for their abysmal season thus far, the Edmonton Oilers were also in the news for a disputed bill at Osteria de Medici, an upscale Italian eatery in Calgary. Their disputed bill rang in at $16,796.39, including tax and tip. Interesting related thread on Chowhound about the restaurant – and it isn’t positive.
  • I watched the lobster episode of Lynn Crawford’s new Food Network series Pitchin’ In and was not impressed. I was hoping it would be a sort-of farming counterpoint to Bob Blumer’s very well done Glutton for Punishment, but Crawford comes across whiney and condescending. I think it is partly due to choppy editing, but there was nothing of value in the episode – I didn’t learn any more about lobster fishing (techniques or sustainability), cooking techniques, or recipes. I guess it can only get better from here, but I won’t be watching.
  • I finally perused Maple Leaf’s Republic of Bacon site and have to say, it is darn amusing (the “bacon porn” is worth a look, as are the restaurant menus). And though it’s not the same focus as the Hellmann’s Eat Real, Eat Local site, I think it is a better campaign because even though Maple Leaf is behind it, their logo and name aren’t stamped everywhere.
  • Is Christine the new Jared? She could be, with a ridiculous campaign called the Drive Thru Diet from Taco Bell.
  • Food Network Humor has some cute photos of your favourite Food Network chefs when they were younger.
  • I’m sure the Vancouver 2010 merchandise will be even more ubiquitous as the Games approach, but I couldn’t help but snap a photo of the cute bottles of maple syrup bearing the Olympic logo that we saw at a Co-op in Yellowknife.

 

Does it taste like the Olympics too?

  • Mack’s parents are tea aficionados, and have an entire cabinet devoted to loose leaf teas. In addition to a selection of fine teas, their brewing system also involved a cool Teavana tea maker that, once steeped, would dispense tea into a matching cup placed underneath.

 

Teavana Perfect Tea Maker

  • Mack’s parents also have a Breville Keurig single-cup coffee maker. While I won’t be giving up our grind and brew system any time soon (nothing beats the smell of fresh-ground beans), it was neat to have a selection of over a dozen coffees at any given time. Mack was particularly blown away by how quickly the K-cup was able to brew a cup of coffee.

 

Breville single-cup coffee maker

  • Seeing the new Skinny Legs and Cowgirls sign up, Mack and I stopped to check if they were open. While they aren’t yet offering lunch (they will be on January 9), they have been offering dinner and brunch since December 17! It looks beautiful inside, with the tinned ceiling and tiny chandeliers. Can’t wait to try out our new neighbourhood eatery!

 

Skinny Legs and Cowgirls (12202 Jasper Avenue, 780-423-4107)

January in Edmonton is for Winter Fun!

I debated whether or not to put together a post of events for January, but here it is – remember to check out ShareEdmonton as well!

  • The second annual Winter Light Festival kicks off on January 6 with the Mispon Winter Light Gala. If it is anything like last year, I highly recommend you attend – it was an awesome evening! The Winter Light Festival continues until March 13.
  • The second Winter Light event of the year is Deep Freeze: A Byzantine Winter Festival in the Alberta Avenue community on January 9-10. In addition to family-friendly activities and entertainment, look forward to a suckling pig roast and maple sugar on snow!
  • Santa may not have come to Edmonton, but the Olympic Torch will, making a stop in our city on January 13.
  • Ice on Whyte, a celebration of carving and sculptures is on January 14-24. I didn’t make it out last year, but did in 2008.
  • Hope you’re hungry! Original Fare’s biannual Fork Fest runs January 17-21 and 24-28, with great pre-fixe dining deals at many of the Original Fare establishments. Check the website closer to the date for more details. Mack and I had a great meal at Red Ox Inn last year during the fest.
  • Edmonton’s “alternative theatre performance festival”, the Canoe Theatre Festival, returns January 19-31, courtesy of Workshop West.
  • Pecha Kucha 6 is taking place on January 21 – the last one I attended in October was great.
  • Another Winter Light Event, Snow Daze and Baba Yaga trail sound pretty cool – the opportunity to walk along a trail transformed into a magical forest. Check it out January 22-23.
  • The First Lego League Alberta Robotics Competition takes place on January 23 at NAIT.
  • The Edmonton Rush hosts their first home game on January 23. Gameday tickets start at just $19!
  • Though the Oilers could be doing better, their annual Superskills competition is a great, inexpensive way to see your favourite players. This year’s incarnation runs January 24 at Rexall.
  • The sparkly new Art Gallery of Alberta finally opens to the public on January 31. You will need a ticket for admission, but luckily, they are free! They will be available starting January 18.

Culinary Highlights: 2009 Edition

Scanning my posts from the past year, I was reminded again of how fortunate I am to be a part of a great culinary community in Edmonton and to have experienced (and eaten!) what I did in 2009.

So as in years past, here are a few of my culinary highlights from 2009, in no particular order:

 

Food: Today, Tomorrow, Together organizers

 

Pigs at Nature’s Green Acres

 

The greenhouse at Greens, Eggs and Ham

 

Me and Mack with our potato bounty

  • Attending my first ever Indulgence, and finding out that the evening really does live up to its name.

 

My favourite dish of the night – a Carmen Creek Ranch slider, prepared by Botanica

 

Wild Boar and Beer 2009

 

With the bell that I got to keep

  • Doing a lot of cooking (at least for me), including one of my favourite dish discoveries, cassoulet.

 

Mark Bittman’s version of cassoulet with lots of vegetables

With Chef Rob Feenie (Mack made me take the photo)

Mack occupies POTUS’s seat at Ben’s Chili Bowl

Melt-in-your-mouth gnocci at Proof

Jessie Radies of The Blue Pear, one of the three people I interviewed for the story

Latkes!

  • Attending two Foodie Meetups, and getting to meet some of the wonderful local food bloggers in person.

 

Foodie Meetup #1  at Blue Plate Diner

 Foodie Meetup #2 potluck at Dawson Park

  • Continuing to find diners to love – and still hoping for more of them in Edmonton.

Stuffed French toast from Dairy Lane in Calgary

Here’s to more eating in 2010!

Epicureous in Edmonton: 2009 in Review

I thought it was another great year for Edmonton’s food scene, though I probably sound like a broken record. However, it’s hard not to get excited when small, local businesses are getting the recognition they deserve in supplying the city with specialized products.

Tomatoes from Sundog Organics

Here are a few of the year’s notable trends and events:

  • A second Edmonton restaurant family was profiled in the third season of Family Restaurant early this year. Food Network Canada viewers were treated to a behind-the-scenes look at the Quons, the family behind local institutions The Lingnan and Chicken for Lunch. Unfortunately, the show left something to be desired.
  • While the effects of the recession were somewhat muted in Canada, people in Edmonton were still looking for dining deals to be had. As a result, several local restaurants, including The Blue Pear and Hardware Grill introduced menus with lower price points to entice patrons.
  • In spite of the economic downturn, several local establishments expanded their business in 2009. Health Fare opened its second location downtown, Famoso christened a third branch in South Edmonton Common, a third Mikado is now in the west end, and a new Transcend cafe will begin operation in Garneau in January 2010.
  • 2009 also saw several chains move into the city, including Cora’s, Cactus Club Cafe, and opening in early 2010, fondue restaurant Melting Pot.
  • Frozen yogurt shops, akin to their US cousins, have finally arrived in Edmonton! Twisted Yogurt opened up its first parlour in August, while Kiwi Kiss joined the fray in October. Expect many more storefronts in the first half of 2010.
  • As Eater would say, two’s a trend – both Vinomania and The Bothy are equipped with state-of-the-art Enomatic Wine Serving System. I wouldn’t be surprised if more restaurants go this route in the nest year.
  • Specialty bakeries were also launched in full force, with no less than four cake shops and cupcakeries popping up – Cake Couture, The Cake House, Flirt, and a second Fuss Cupcakes outlet on Whyte Avenue. Of course, who could forget Duchess, whose opening was the equivalent of a culinary earthquake in Edmonton.
  • A trend going into 2010 will undoubtedly be more transparent menus and accommodating kitchens, as more people require or choose gluten-free, vegetarian or vegan diets, but in 2009, Backstairs Cafe was already ahead of the trend, showcasing vegan cuisine and giving Edmonton its first culinary speakeasy in the process.
  • Local food producers continue to gain a foothold in the market, with the Good Food Box and new Alberta Avenue Farmers’ Market providing more opportunities to support area farmers, the Eat Local First initiative helping consumers to identify goods made by local purveyors, the Meet the Locals Festival connecting shoppers with producers, and the successful launch of We Eat Togethershowing the appetite for local food.

I’m looking forward to what 2010 has in store already!

The Male Family Zoo

Being from a one pet family (I don’t count my Dad’s fish), it is a welcome surprise to be surrounded by so many animals at Martin and Patti’s. Given that they used to have a pet shop, it’s not really unexpected that they are animal lovers. They even have a room dedicated to reptiles and birds!

Ekon the Yellow Saharan Uromastyx

Thom and Crackers the California Black and White Banded Kingsnake

Kim and Casper, an Umbrella Cockatoo

 Max(ine), a beautiful Green-Wing Macaw

I wasn’t able to get a photo of the other Uromastyx and snake because they were hiding, but believe me, they are there!

One reason we don’t have any dogs or cats is because I am allergic to them, but riding a Reactine wave this week, it’s been nice to see what it would be like to have them around.

Kali, one of Kim and Shane’s dogs

Mack and Traz (wearing his too-cute jacket)

Kotah, the “gentle giant”, in a shot that captures his erratic puppy energy

It’s been fun to be able to play with the animals while I’m here!

Not a Diamond in the Rough: Fuego

To celebrate Mack’s birthday, Martin and Patti took the lot of us out for dinner at Fuego. Martin had been there for lunch one day, and enjoyed his visit.

Fuego is part of a larger company that includes a lounge, champagne bar, and catering service, under the umbrella of Dining on 50th. I was a little weary of their “international cuisine” tagline, but was willing to see what this Yellowknife restaurant had to offer.

Walking downstairs into the space, I was immediately struck by how busy it was. Though we knew many restaurants in the city are closed for the holiday season, I somehow still didn’t expect a nearly full house. Dimly lit, the decor was simple – red walls, sleek leather chairs, and pictures of a lake sunset encased in false windows.

Mack and me

The dining room was bracketed by a small bar and a stage – Fuego hosts local musicians on a nightly basis. The talented Shea Alain was our entertainer that night, performing acoustic, low-tempo covers of everything from “My Girl” to Fort Minor’s “Where’d You Go”.

Fuego has quite a large menu, and though there was some Latin American influence, it seemed to be put together with a purpose to please – the grilled ostrich seemed out of place. More focus might do it some good. Regardless, everyone was able to find one dish that appealed to them. Most of us also ordered appetizers.

The baked caramelized onion soup ($9) was rich, and packed an unexpected heat. Underneath the melted cheese and bread was a dense web of onions that I struggled to finish. Mack’s jumbo bacon scallop skewer ($15) was beautifully garnished with greens and a star, but was a touch overcooked. He gobbled it up, and said it was still pretty good.

Caramelized Onion Soup

Jumbo Bacon Scallops

My herb chipotle crusted whitefish filet ($26) was a bit disappointing – though the fish was nicely cooked, where I was expecting a hard shell, I was met with more of a pesto-like robe on the fish. Moreover, the beurre blanc was unappetizingly sour, to the point where I could have done without the sauce all together. I loved the balsamic glaze on the sweet potato fries though – the sauce made it more like a treat than a side.

Herb Chipotle Crusted Whitefish

Mack’s grilled arctic char ($34) was more of a success – the caper aioli was the perfect accompaniment. Mack also loved the crispy potato chips on his plate.

Grilled Arctic Char

Everyone else around the table seemed to enjoy their dishes (dishes were definitely over-sauced though), and despite the fact that the entire restaurant was serviced by just a single waitress, the kitchen was speedy and we weren’t left waiting long for our food. It is also worth noting that the restaurant was quite accommodating towards a gluten allergy in our party.

Bison Ribeye with Chimichurri Sauce

Beef Striploin with Brandy Madagascar Sauce

Grilled Seafood Stuffed Salmon Filet with Pesto Sour Cream

It was a nice night overall at Fuego, with wonderful ambiance provided by the live entertainment, and good company. Decent food, but I can’t say I would recommend it as a destination.

Fuego
4915 50th Street, Yellowknife
(867) 873-3750
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:30pm; Dinner: Monday-Saturday 5-10pm

Dog Sledding in Yellowknife!

Part of the Christmas present from Mack’s parents was a dog sledding tour with local company Beck’s Kennels. It was a very thoughtful gift, and one they knew we would enjoy because it would provide us with a uniquely “northern” experience.

Out of the possible tours, Martin and Patti chose the Northern Outdoor option. Two hours in length, we would all have the opportunity to drive the sled, either to the cabin where we would warm up around a wood-burning stove, or back to the home base. Beck’s also offers different types of tours, including aurora viewing, ice fishing and snow shoeing. In addition, proprietor Grant Beck is an avid dog racer – it was neat that the kennel was not only in the business of offering dog sledding recreationally, but participated in the competitive sport as well.

Some of the many kennels

Martin dropped the four of us off at Beck’s yesterday afternoon for our adventure. We were directed to dress warmly, particularly because of the length of our tour, and were surprised to find a collection of parkas, snow pants, boots, hats and mitts for us to use. We geared up and got ready to go.

Kim and Shane

Mack and me

Mack and Shane elected to direct the two sleds on the way to the cabin, and were given a quick lesson from our guide on what to do. We were told to stand with our knees slightly bent, and at the turns, to lean into the turn in order to avoid tipping the sled.

Practicing my stance

Kim and I settled comfortably into our passenger seats, and off we went! Our tour guide followed close by on a skidoo, checking to make sure both Shane and Kim’s sled and ours were on track. Though the dogs were playful and would occasionally fall out of the harness-and-rope-imposed lines, they were focused on getting to our destination, and knew the trails well. I felt safe the entire time – in case Mack fell of the sled, or the dogs made a wrong turn – we knew the guide would find us to help if we had needed it.

The view

Mack directing the sled (he loved his pink gloves)

The ride to the cabin took just over half an hour. It was a peaceful and serene journey, with the trails through the trees being my particular favourite, branches and boughs beautifully draped in snow.

Trail

At the cabin, while the dogs rested, we warmed up around the wood burning stove and had hot chocolate and snacks.

Kim warms up

Shane and Mack

We asked our guide about the dogs, because I had expected them to be long-haired Siberian Huskies. She said that because Siberian Huskies had been bred more and more for their appearance instead of racing traits, that Alaskan Huskies were actually a better breed for running. We also asked if she knew the names of the dogs, and she said it was difficult, with 135 dogs at the kennel!

Kim and I directed the sleds on the way back, and boy was it ever cold. We rode against the bitter wind chill pretty much the entire time, along a slightly different route than before. Though I was afraid I would fall off of the sled, between the grip of the sled runners and the fairly flat landscape, it was an easy ride. We had to help the dogs a little by pushing the sled up the hill, but other than that, the dogs took care of us.

On the way back

Thanks again to Martin and Patti for the experience!

You can read Mack’s post here and see some of the photos here.