Food Notes

  • Judy Schultz is retiring! After 26 years, she is leaving the Journal. We’ll miss you, Judy!
  • La Spiga is no more. Violino, another Italian eatery, has replaced it. Judging by a positive review from the Zenari clan, it’s a good bet for traditional food.
  • The next time I return to Manhattan, I’ll be sure to time it around a Restaurant Week. The listing of participants for the January event is up.
  • There was an interesting article in the Globe last week about the movement to “reclaim” but also to experiment with Indian food. It talks about an up and coming chef, based in the UK, who has banished the word “curry” from his menu.
  • Food trends for 2008 (though perhaps not really worth mentioning in a food climate as slow as Edmonton’s): gastropubs, comfort food/one-item restaurants (like S’MAC), and upscale frozen desserts.
  • Blogging about New York took a lot out of me, so instead of a full restaurant review, I’m copping out and just writing a few sentences about my latest experience at Manor Cafe. I had dinner there with a few girlfriends there last week, and was less than impressed. This is the second time where upon entering the restaurant, I was left waiting in the lobby for someone, anyone, to greet me. Secondly, our server opened up the evening with humor, referencing the nearly-empty dining area on the main floor (“As you can see, we’re so busy”), but failed to keep up with the implied promise of good service. Andrea never did get her water glass refilled, and resorted to drinking everyone else’s water. Our supply of hot water for tea also needed continued requests to be replenished. The food was nothing to write home about, though it was my choice to order the seemingly out of place Nasi Goreng dish. The rice itself was pretty bland, but I did enjoy the accompaniments provided (the peanut sauce in particular was quite tasty). Operated by the same couple who own Urban Diner (where I’ve always had a positive experience), I’m surprised at how inconsistent Manor Cafe has been.

Culinary Q & A with Andrea

Occupation: Professional student. Technically, I’m in grade 19.

What did you eat today?

I woke up at 1pm and went to Denny’s for breakfast/lunch. I had the Heartland Scramble:

Two eggs scrambled with chopped bacon, country-fried potatoes, green peppers and onions, and topped with Cheddar cheese. Served with two strips of bacon, two sausage links, hash browns and three fluffy buttermilk pancakes.

Instead of the pancakes, I substituted it with French toast.

I also had some mandarin oranges to snack on.

What do you never eat?

Never say never! I mean, I say now that I’ll won’t eat bugs and rats. But what if I was starving on a desert island? I think I’d have no qualms hunting down and devouring anything remotely edible. Better them than me.

I guess to answer your question: it’s not that I’ll never eat it but I don’t enjoy the taste of cilantro, pineapples, olives, pickles, vinegar, lobster/crab, shark fin, tofu, peanut butter (peanuts alone, I like), cooked citrus fruits (raw is fine), capers, and watercress.

Oh, and I don’t really like chocolate either. Weird, I know.

What is your personal specialty?

Everyone seems to like my chocolate chip oatmeal cookies. I have so many requests for the recipe but I refuse to divulge the secret. You’ll never find it in any books or the internet since I made it up.

My mini pecan pies are pretty good too, but an incredible hassle to make. I’d like to think I’m above average in the baked goods department.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

Sharp knives. For stabbing.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Appetizer: Deep-fried breaded fresh calimari with tzatziki sauce for dipping, and a lemon wedge for squeezing. An important thing to note is that I want the calimari to breading ratio to be at least 3:1 in terms of volume.

Entree: It’s a tough choice but I think I’d choose a gyro over pho. This gyro MUST come from the Greek island of Santorini at a certain restaurant who’s name escapes me.

Since that probably won’t make me full, I’d also like a prime rib dinner made by my dad, served with Russian Blue Duchesse potatoes and garden fresh vegetables (and I mean GARDEN FRESH).

Dessert: I’m pretty simple in this department — home-made apple crumble a la mode. The ice cream must be vanilla bean. I HAVE to be able to see those little black flecks.

Beverage: A nice glass of blackberry wine.

Snack: Krispy Kreme doughnuts and Haribo gummie bears.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Hmmm…probably Charles Smart Donair. Jumbo Dim Sum comes at a close second.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

Oooh. This is a tough question. In order to get a green-light from me, there has to be a high quality-to-price ratio and service has to be decent. You know me, I like having my water glass filled frequently and without my asking. Also, I’m not sure if my choices are biased from my meal-mates. I mean, no one would like eating in the best place in the world with their enemy.

In any case, here they are in no particular order:

Cafe Mosaic
Pad Thai
Charles Smart Donair
Jumbo Dim Sum
New Asian Village
Pagolac
Marble Slab (not really a restaurant, but ice cream is still something you eat!) Garage Burgers
Original Joe’s
Pho Tau Bay

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

Gyros from Greece; pho from Vietnam; pizza and gelato from Italy; schnitzel and beer from Germany; roast beef dinner from UK (I don’t really like Yorkshire pudding, but I had the best pudding there); all sorts of fantastic pastries from France; egg custard tarts from HK; jerky from Vancouver; naan bread from India; and last of all, huckleberry-blackberry pie a la mode from Loula’s Cafe in Whitefish, Montana.

Culinary Q & A with Jane

Occupation: Director- Financial aid office

What did you eat today?

Breakfast- yogurt, banana. Mandarin & a hot rod!
Lunch- pita & nummus
Dinner- Spanish tortilla (egg Potatos, green onions & cheese) w/ caramelized onions&red pepper

What do you never eat?

Oatmeal or cereal & milk

What is your personal specialty?

Soups & baked goods

What is your favorite kitchen item?

Sharp Knives. Close second, measuring cups

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

french onion soup Japanese food- sushi sashimi etc Miscellaneous snack stuff like drips. Pickles, olives & cheeses Haha all over the place

Where do you eat out most frequently?

A japanese restaurant in the west end- Ichiban

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

So hard to choose one! I love lchiban for the price to quality ratio but one of the places really like is Uppercrust ooh & Flavours on Whyte Ave. Sorry that was a non- answer!

Office Party at Sutton Place

As per tradition, my colleagues and I gathered at the Sutton Place Hotel downtown for our annual Christmas party.

I remember having fond memories of last year’s luncheon, but that was likely because I didn’t have a hand in it and was allowed to simply enjoy the experience. This year, I volunteered to be on the planning committee, as I thought it would provide me with an opportunity to take a break from day-to-day work life. As it turned out, due to many seemingly last-minute adjustments, the party planning took on a life of its own.

The majority of my stress was associated with the holiday game my workmate Meghan and I were in charge of creating. A hybrid of Jeopardy and Cranium (Jeonium?), we did our best to escape the points model by awarding pieces of a puzzle instead. Thus, “Operation Rudolph” was born, with two groups of winners chosen – the team who could first obtain all twenty pieces, and the team who could most quickly put the puzzle together. While the competition was fierce, it seemed everyone ultimately enjoyed themselves, and our efforts were appreciated.

As for the buffet – the price per head increased to $28.50, but it was still well worth it. The roast beef in particular was very good this year, as was the salmon drenched in saffron butter sauce.

While I am relieved that the party (and the planning) is over, I am sure that in hindsight, I will appreciate the experience as a whole.

My first and only plate

One of the completed Rudolph puzzles

The Cooking Chronicles: Barbecue Duck Salad Rolls

Cooking for potlucks to be held at work always pose a bit of a challenge. Without access to an oven, and the added fun of transporting a dish across town on public transportation, I’ve found that a well thought out choice necessary. Up this time: Barbecue Duck Salad Rolls.

Things I learned:

  • I cannot julienne carrots.
  • Duck is a really, really fatty meat.
  • Softening rice papers works best in super-hot (near boiling) water.
  • Soy paste is a decent substitute for hoisin sauce.

I grossly underestimated the amount of time it would take me to assemble the rolls. If my Mum hadn’t helped me prepare the vegetables and vermicelli beforehand, I would have ended up listening to The Bounce‘s high rotation list a third time.

I kept a wet paper towel over the rolls overnight, and to my surprise, they didn’t crack much by lunch time this afternoon. Most of my coworkers liked the dish (I was down to one by the end!), with one even commenting about the very “refreshing” citrus burst of flavor as provided by the lime juice. I myself liked the inclusion of fresh cilantro – this would be a great appetizer for a summer patio party.

Barbecue Duck Salad Rolls

Food Notes

  • Caffe Sorrentino is now open in Edmonton City Centre. It’s definitely a more open space than the previous Polka Cafe, and I’m sure it’ll be bustling with business every lunch hour.
  • A second T & T Supermarket is coming to town! Dickson said a sign is now up in front of the space in Northgate Mall left vacant by Save on Foods. If Calgary can sustain two of these giant Asian grocery stores, I think we in Edmonton can as well.
  • Sutton Place Hotel‘s annual Christmas buffet will be offered starting next week. I’m not sure how many seats are left, but take a look at the extensive menu, and decide for yourself if it’s worth fighting for.
  • It appears the restaurants of Original Fare will be the the first Canadian group to join the PowerCard Rewards program. Somewhat similar to the points-accumulation system of Open Table, dollars spent at individual merchants are converted into rewards points that can be redeemed for cash. No indication of what “coming soon” actually translates to, date wise.
  • Christopher Thrall, one of the food writers for Vue Weekly (and contributor to Edmonton Dining), started a new column in this week’s issue which answers reader questions about restaurant suggestions. Good idea.
  • Nestle’s coffee machine, aptly named Nespresso, is trying to break into the U.S. market. They just recently opened a second specialty cafe in New York, but the article points out that Americans have a different view of coffee than Europeans – many consider it an “experience” that really cannot be duplicated at home. If I happen to pass by Bloomingdale’s, perhaps I’ll check it out.

A Surprisingly Good Brunch: Moxie’s

After discovering that a chain like Milestone’s could serve a pretty mean brunch, I went hunting for similar restaurants competing for diners on weekend afternoons. While Earls and Joey’s didn’t offer separate brunch menus, I found that Moxie’s did. So after a brief shopping trip this morning, Annie and I headed to Moxie’s on the south side (4790 Calgary Trail NW), hoping their non-reservation policy wouldn’t result in a lengthy wait.

Turns out we didn’t need to worry, as there were more than enough seats to accommodate us in the dining room. The menu was not extensive, with just nine breakfast selections (and their regular lunch features), but I actually preferred it this way – it usually meant faster kitchen prep. I was momentarily swayed by the French Toast, but ultimately decided on the Bacon & Cheddar Omelette ($10.99) – smoky bacon, sauteed onion, aged white and Canadian cheddars in a three egg omelette served with rosti potatoes and twelve-grain toast. Annie chose the more interesting Crab Cake Benedict ($12.99) – Moxie’s classic crab cakes, two poached eggs and hollandaise, with rosti potatoes and fresh fruit.

Plied with coffee, we would have waited patiently for our dishes, but in no time, our plates arrived. My omelette was huge, and I am happy to report that they did not scrimp on the cheese. They could have included more bacon (what meat that was folded in was overpowered by cheesy goodness), but that was a minor nitpick. Between the toast and crab cakes, Annie found her dish unfortunately dry, and would have liked more hollandaise sauce.

With great service throughout (our waitress constantly offered to top up our coffees) and a decent brunch menu, I would consider coming back.

Bacon & Cheddar Omelette

Crab Cake Benedict

Setting the Bar Low: Four Rooms Restaurant

Armed with an Entertainment Book coupon and low expectations, May and I headed to Four Rooms Restaurant (137 Edmonton City Centre) on Friday night.

After an overly negative experience in my high school days (involving rock-hard bread and food not remotely memorable), I was hesitant to return. But with a sweetened incentive of a 2-for-1 meal, and proximity to our second destination that evening, I was willing to give it another try. Lately as well, I had been reading about their popular Cosmopolitan Supper Club, a monthly concept event that offers dishes based around one ingredient or theme. Thus, I was hoping Four Rooms had improved since our last visit.

At around 6:15pm, May and I walked into the restaurant, greeted by four staff members who were standing around in the lobby casually chatting. Not a crime, but certainly not a good sign from a restaurant that, based purely upon location, should have been doing brisk business from the after-work and holiday shopping crowds alone. It turned out we were the third party in the dining room, though I did notice that the back room lounge contained other patrons as well. We were efficiently seated at a table along the wall, a thoughtful choice from the host who noted that the banquet would allow for ample space for our shopping bag.

The menu was more extensive and interesting than I could remember, though again, May and I were hard pressed to recall what we ordered the last time (keeping in mind that the selections had more than likely been overhauled since 2001 anyway). Though there were a few tempting selections, I ended up with the Marsala Bison Kafta ($13.50) – Bison Kaftas & mushrooms in a Marsala cream sauce tossed with linguine pasta – while May ordered the Banana Curry Chicken ($16) – grilled free range chicken in a Madras curry sauce with onions, bell peppers, yams and sweet potatoes.

When our server delivered our two dinner rolls, I couldn’t tell whether or not they were fresh or not. I could, however, nitpick that they were of the 25 cent variety available at your neighbourhood Sobey’s. Slicing into it, they were thankfully fairly soft, albeit a little cool to the touch.

Our dishes arrived fairly quickly, and on first glance, appeared quite small. By the end, however, between the meat and the pasta, I felt like the quantity was just about right. Perhaps due to my underdeveloped palette, the kafta, crafted from ground bison meat, tasted like a pan-fried Ikea meatball. The pasta, on the other hand, was superb. The sauce was creamy and sweet, with the only downside being that there wasn’t more of it to go around. May said her dish was all right, though she would have preferred a more generous serving of chicken, and could have done without the out-of-place bananas.

As meals go, this wasn’t half bad – service was good, and the food was reasonably priced. Of course, it was difficult to be objective given that we had set the bar so incredibly low. I may be back, but I wouldn’t go out of my way for Four Rooms.

Banana Curry Chicken

Marsala Bison Kafta

The Cooking Chronicles: Scotch Shortbread

When my coworker brought homemade shortbread cookies to the office the other day, I was reminded of a recipe I have been wanting to try for some time. So I hauled out my pink Better Homes and Gardens Cook Book, and flipped to the page with directions for Scotch Shortbread.

The ingredients couldn’t be more common – butter, confectioner’s sugar, and flour – while the prep was easy and fast. I didn’t quite know how to “crimp” the edges, but as no one but my family would be sampling my cookies, it didn’t matter so much.

This recipe – while lighting quick to put together – just wasn’t good. Much too bland (the cookies are in dire need of sugar), I was not completely without fault, as I was guilty of under baking the batch. Still, this was a surprising first strike to my trusty BHG.

Scotch Shortbread

Food Notes

  • Edmontonians can breathe a sigh of relief – Capital Health has announced that the inspection results of city-wide restaurants will be accessible to the public by July 1.
  • The Matrix Hotel, besides being the home of Edmonton’s newest Starbucks, will also house a new restaurant from the L’Azia Group, called the Wildflower Restaurant. Barring construction delays, it will open in November. The Edmonton City Centre location of L’Azia used to be a favorite pre and post-movie destination for my friends and I during high school. I have found, however, that the food and service has steadily declined over the years, and haven’t been back. I hope the Wildflower is able to meet high expectations, otherwise, the Century Hospitality Group may have been a better choice to fill the space.
  • Here’s a reason, besides the cheap merchandise, to visit Wal-Mart: only available in McDonald’s restaurants situated inside the discount retailer, are cinnamon pullaparts. Rich, warm, and an instant cure for any sweet tooth, these buns are only $1.79, about half the price of those found at Cinnamon City or Cinnabon. Try it. You’ll never pay $4.50 for an icing-topped wonder again.
  • On the topic of McDonald’s, the company announced plans to breach the specialty coffee market by offering lattes, mochas, cappuccinos and espressos. But it may not be so easy – apparently many franchise owners are opposed to the $100,000 needed for initial equipment purchases and renovations. A surprising statistic from the article – about 1 in 5 Americans has an espresso based drink every day.
  • I’ve never really paid attention to either Zagat or Michelin restaurant guides, so I was happy to read a sort of “primer” article on their influences and reputations this week in the Globe. Interesting fact – Michelin stars are awarded purely on the strength of the food, and ignore service and ambiance.
  • To assist area restaurants affected by the Broadway strike, Mayor Bloomberg instigated a “Dining in the District” promotion – over 25 restaurants offering 15% off lunch and dinner menus. It was to end November 25; I wonder if it will be extended as the strike continues?