Tidbits: Notes from Edmonton’s Epicurean Scene

With the void of local food reporting left by Judy Schultz (the Journal’s Liane Faulder will be taking on the post later this year; in the meantime, they have been gleaning material from other CanWest affiliates), I will be relying on City Palate (in addition to Vue Weekly and See Magazine) for updates on Edmonton’s food scene.

  • An ad in the January/February edition of City Palate indicates that the Lazia Group‘s Wildflower Grill (plagued by construction delays) is set to open in February. After so many start-stops, I will believe it when I see it.
  • There’s a new Mexican restaurant in town: Mexico Lindo (16604 109 Avenue) is now open in Mayfield Plaza.
  • Along the lines of Tokyo Express, the new Asian Rice Bowl Express (8924 149 Street) offers quick, “healthy” meal options.
  • My coworker Sharon asked me if I knew anything about a new restaurant in the LeMarchand Mansion, and I didn’t at the time. Then I read about the Tazzi Cafe (111, 11523 100 Avenue). City Palate notes to “expect casual eastern Mediterranean flavours with a Greek and Arabic accent.” Only open until 5pm at the moment, they are planning for a dinner menu in the near future.
  • As reported in Avenue Magazine, it seems Fat Franks has moved indoors to occupy a permanent space inside the Commerce Place food court. I haven’t been down there in ages – anyone else?

Lukewarm Reception: Violino

On the heels of our great meal at Violino (10133 125 Street) two weeks ago, Annie decided that she wanted to hold her birthday celebration there this year. Though she had called too late to book the private room upstairs, our party of 7 were comfortably seated at a quiet table on the main floor. Violino was notably busier than our last visit, with a Sienna Collins-hosted fundraiser taking place on the second floor, and the University of Alberta President Indira Samarasekera having dinner just a few tables away.

The menu had changed slightly (they eliminated the Carbonara from their pasta section and added a 24K gold leaf cake to their dessert list), but Annie and I were both happy to see that the Risotto con Funghi was still on the menu.

We also ordered wine that evening, settling on a Chilean Merlot. That was the start of rather curt service from our waitress, who was impatient from the get-go, returning much too frequently for our drink orders as individual guests arrived, and not offering even the semblance of a smile or friendliness in our interaction. When we asked her to exchange our teapots of lukewarm water for water more conducive for tea, she was abrupt and rather rude about what was clearly her mistake. It would be a shame if Violino lost return customers due to her less-than-warm demeanor.

As for the food – Annie thought the risotto was better this time around, but I thought it was comparable with our last meal. Mack enjoyed his Tiger Striped Agnulotti with Lobster (served with a really generous amount of seafood, and was the best value at $26), while Dickson didn’t think very highly of his Ziti Al Forno.

The very friendly host brought out Annie’s candle-topped cake (leading us in a “rousing” rendition of “Happy Birthday”), and helped serve slices of the cake to everyone at the table. We did linger for quite a while (despite telling glances from our steely-eyed waitress), and though we may have overstayed our welcome slightly, it was nice to chat in a dining room that had nearly emptied out by 10.

While I won’t let this experience color my overall positive impression of Violino, I would be interested to see what a third visit would bring. In any case, it was a lovely dinner, Annie – happy birthday!

Tiger Striped Agnulotti with Lobster

Ziti Al Forno

Birthday girl

Janice and May

Me and Mack

Mack and Dickson

Andres and Annie

“The Last Great Hamburger Stand”: Fatburger

Always ready to try the new restaurant on the block, Mack and I originally planned to visit Fatburger (1755 102 Street) on the weekend. However, deterred by a long line up and a movie showtime, we decided to save our burger stand experience for a less busy occasion.

So although it was out of the way on Tuesday, we made our way there after work. By 6, quite the line started to form – I’m sure this location will be fending off curious customers for a while yet. Upon entry, we ordered a Fat Deal and a Chicken Deal (combos including “skinny” fries and a drink), which were called out, and repeated, Starbucks-barista-style, to the employees stationed at the grill. We were then handed paper cups to fill with soda ourselves, and a number to display on our table so that our food could be delivered to us.

While waiting, I surveyed the decor: friendly and fun, with red-dressed booths, a checkered floor, jukebox, and flat-screen televisions, it was basically a “modernized” retro diner. The washrooms were exceptionally clean, very surprising for a fast-food establishment, with tile pictures of male celebrities on the wall in the women’s toilet and vice versa for the men.

A tray was brought to us a few minutes later. My chicken burger wasn’t bad, and the fries were reminiscent of Wendy’s, but with a combo price ($9.99) and quality comparable to Red Robin’s, I think I’d likely choose the latter, if not only for their bottomless baskets of “fat” fries. That said, we will be back at some point to at least try out their homemade onion rings (fresh made every morning, supposedly), and for Mack to garnish a future burger with a fried egg.

Give Fatburger a whirl, but in the end, it really is just a burger.

Interior

Chicken Deal (with a massive cup of ketchup)

Strip Mall Elegance: Jack’s Grill

After New York, I thought it’d be best to avoid “fancy” restaurants for a while – not because I don’t enjoy being catered to necessarily, but because I feel I’ve enjoyed my share of fine dining for several months. When May suggested we try out Jack’s Grill (primarily because she had a gift certificate that would cover about half our meal costs), I agreed, but knew that if their hospitality matched their menu prices, my verdict of the restaurant would be influenced by my desire for anything but formal dining.

Located in a Lendrum strip mall (5842 111 Street), a rather unusual spot for a high-end eatery, it is easily missed due to an exterior that blends in with neighbouring merchants. Upon entry, I was greeted by a friendly hostess who immediately took my coat (I can’t seem to get away from mandatory coat checks) and seated me at a table alongside a wall of windows. Whoever designed the restaurant should be commended for not only the placement of glass, but also for the inclusion of a garden of sorts outside the window. With a parallel bank of trees decorated with twinkle lights, if led in blindfolded, diners would never guess that Jack’s Grill was situated in a strip mall to begin with.

May arrived soon after, and we took our time with the one page menu. We skipped over the appetizers directly to the entrees. May decided to try the Slow Braised Lamb Shank ($32), while the Chinook Salmon ($36) as described by the waiter sounded too good to pass up.

While we waited for our plates, May and I were both surprised at how busy the restaurant was over the course of the evening. Though never completely full, I didn’t think those with expensive tastes would wander out of the downtown core to feed their hunger for gourmet cuisine.

May’s lamb was perfectly prepared – tender off the bone. She didn’t like the accompanying braised cabbage or gremolata much, but finished it all the same. My salmon was good, but the butter sauce it came in was better (it’s pretty difficult to mess up pan fried fish, I find).

Service was decent throughout (including the server who refolded our napkins while we were away from the table), and our water glasses were never less than half full. Still, without a gift certificate in hand, I would be hard pressed to return to Jack’s Grill. There are better fine dining options in Edmonton (Hardware Grill, for example) that I would turn to first on occasions requiring a high standard of excellence.

Exterior

Dining room

The Cooking Chronicles: Eggnog Cookies

Birthdays provide another great excuse to try out new recipes. I bought a copy of Company’s Coming: Christmas Gifts from the Kitchen a few months ago (I love the dry mix ideas), and in it was an unusual recipe for Eggnog Cookies.

While I’m not a huge fan of eggnog, Mack is, and I decided a batch would be a good start for his (belated) birthday present. Being drop cookies, it was an easy batter to put together, though I had to omit the rum/brandy addition, as we didn’t have any on hand. The cookies turned out all right, mostly circular, and looked better with a drizzle of eggnog icing and colored sugar (a piping bag would have allowed for more consistent decoration, but I found a fork easier to use).

I can’t comment too much on the taste because of my bias, except to say that they had quite a strong nutmeg flavour to them. Mack seemed to like them enough, so as gifts go, I’d consider making them again for those who like eggnog.

Eggnog Cookies

The Best Pho in Town: Pagolac

It’s been a while since I’ve been to Pagolac, as I had been frequenting Doan’s to satify my pho craving. My last few trips to Doan’s have been disappointing, however – the beef stock seemed to have increased in salt content and did not appear to have been made from scratch (boullion cubes, anyone?).

I was hoping Pagolac hadn’t gone downhill in the time I had been away, and I am happy to report that they still offer the best pho in the city! My bowl didn’t have cilantro (boo), but other than that, I couldn’t complain about anything. Their servers always amaze me too – super efficient even in a packed house.

Inexpensive and consistent, Pagolac is still my recommentation for reliable, cheap eats.

Pho with medium sliced beef

A Little Slice of Europe: Bistro Praha

A few friends and I met up at Bistro Praha (10168 100A Street) for a late afternoon dinner on Saturday. I hadn’t been back to the restaurant in some years, though I had been a frequent patron there in my late high school and early university days. The Rice Howard Way strip hosts a number of independent, ethnic eateries, including La Table de Renoir (French), Co Co Di (Lebanese), It’s All Greek to Me (what else but Greek), and the Eastern European fare of Bistro Praha.

Small but cozy, Bistro Praha always seems to have a few groups of regulars in addition to more curious diners. With a prominent bar and counter along one side and furniture that could have been pulled from an old family pub, the dining room is comfortable and feels familiar somehow. Lighting is dim, but conducive, it seems, to the camaraderie of more boisterous customers, but protective also of the intimate conversations taking place at the tables for two.

I wish I could provide more detail about the menu items, but truth be told, I’ve always ordered the same entree – the Wiener Schnitzel “Cordon Bleu” (a slice of veal, edam cheese and ham breaded then fried). Served with green and potato salads, the meal is consistently satisfying. I decided to order the full plate, though when it arrived, I realized that in the past, I had only asked for the half order – the schnitzel was huge! Still, I managed to eat every crispy and tasty bite – a microwaved portion of leftovers really wouldn’t have done the dish justice.

Stuffed, I wasn’t able to order dessert, but the rest of the girls did. Janice said Bistro Praha’s crepes were better than those served at The Creperie.

It was a nice meal overall – good food, attentive service, and not a bad place to catch up with friends. If you’re in the area, give Bistro Praha a try!

Restaurant interior

Wiener Schnitzel “Cordon Bleu”

Peach Crepe

Delicious and Divine: Violino

After reading a few positive reviews about Violino (10133 125 Street), a new-ish restaurant in the High Street area, I suggested that Annie and I give it a try on Friday night.

Located in what appears to be a renovated house, we were greeted upon arrival by a host who took our coats (after New York, I am terrified by coat checks). He led us to the second floor dining area, and at that time, we were only the second party in the restaurant (while it was never full, more patrons arrived over the course of the evening).

Annie and I both loved the decor – red tapestries, cream seat covers, and the nicest bathroom either of us had seen in a long time (I’m a sucker for those bowl-shaped sinks that sit atop counters). My only nitpick was the prevalence of music-themed art throughout the restaurant; two or three pieces would have been subtle, but we seemed to encounter another sculpture every time we turned around.

Wanting to leave room for dessert, we bypassed the appetizers and denser entrees, opting instead for the Risotto con Funghi (risotto and wild mushroom melange, parmesan cheese, mixed herbs and laced with truffle oil). I am pleased to say that our server was great under the circumstances; she was assigned the entire second level, and was swamped, but did her best to provide attentive and timely service.

Our food arrived in a positively aromatic cloud and our server confirmed that we were noticing the truffle oil. In short, the risotto was divine. Rich and savoury, but not overly salty, the rice was a creamy bit of heaven.

To end our meal, we each ordered the Espresso Tiramisu and an accompanying cup of tea. Beautifully presented, with an artfully placed wafer and a single raspberry, the cake did not taste heavy, unlike versions at other Italian restaurants. The marscapone cheese blended wonderfully with the espresso-soaked biscuits, and I found the chocolate syrup garnish a nice sweet touch.

While not inexpensive, our indulgence at Violino was well worth it.

Restaurant Exterior

Annie and her Risotto

Espresso Tiramisu

2007: A Year of Culinary Highlights

2007 was a great year. For food, that is.

I was fortunae enough to travel to Europe this summer, and to New York in December. At home in Edmonton, I sampled the fare at several new restaurants (or at least, “new” to me), and discovered some now-favorites.

In no particular order, here are a few of my culinary highlights from the past year.

  • Eating the best pizza of my life first at Vancouver’s Bridges, then in a small sidestreet restaurant in Florence.

  • Asiago, Parmesan and Mozzerella Pizza from Bridges

    Navona Notte from a restaurant with that namesake

  • (With Mack’s help) Throwing my first ever dinner party!
  • Panna Cotta amidst a candlelit table

  • Many a good meal at my beloved Blue Plate Diner.
  • Comfort food at its best – the Herbed Meatloaf from Blue Plate Diner

  • The discovery of a stellar diner in Calgary, a wonderful lunch spot in downtown Edmonton, a historic house for more than just tea, a comfortable greasy spoon, and a chic cafe for fab pizza and panini sandwiches.
  • Frittata from Diner Deluxe

    Chicken Cordon Bleu from Shine Bistro

    Cranberry Brie Sandwich from Arbor Restaurant in Rutherford House

    Poutine from Route 99 Diner

    Vegetarian Panini Sandwich from Leva Capuccino Bar

  • Exhausting my cupcake phase: first in Calgary; then in Vancouver; Edmonton; and finally New York (and of course, I made my own too).
  • From Calgary’s Buttercream Bakeshoppe

    From Calgary’s Crave

    From Vancouver’s Cupcakes

    From Edmonton’s Whimsical Cupcakes

    From New York’s Magnolia Bakery

    An Ina Garten recipe for Chocolate Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Icing

  • Experiencing the gold standard for eating out at Becco in New York, which balanced the line between fine dining and comfort.

Outside Becco

  • An invitation to participate in a Market Fresh Cooking Class with Judy Schultz and Gail Hall, which started to get me thinking about seasonal cooking and utilizing farmer’s markets.

With my fellow Journal winners, Gail Hall, and Judy Schultz

I can’t wait to see what’s in store for 2008!

The Cooking Chronicles: New Year’s Eve Shindig

Jane e-mailed me from Italy in November, asking if I would consider co-hosting a New Year’s party with her. As if I hesitated before saying yes to an opportunity to entertain and experiment with new recipes.

As we were both in recovery from illness and/or vacation hangover, it wasn’t until a few days before the 31st that we brainstormed potential hors dourves we wanted to serve our guests. A few e-mails and one discussion later, we had it down to five plates each, plus a beverage to have ready for Monday.

As I was scheduled to work a half day that morning, I made sure to choose recipes that would allow for advanced preparation. Of course, I didn’t anticipate that prior to launching into a cooking extravaganza on Sunday night, that I would first have to help my family put together a feast for my sister and her 20 merry friends in celebration of her birthday.

After dinner, I got started. Donna Hay’s 3 Cheese Puffs (made from thawed puff pastry sheets) probably had a dash too much oregano, but were assembled quite quickly, and were ready to be baked the next day. After making a sour cream pound cake from scratch, I diced about half of it for Individual Raspberry Trifle Parfaits (using disposable wine glasses found at Dollarama), which would be garnished with chocolate curls at the party. Giada’s Stuffed Mushrooms were next, modified using suggestions from others who had tried the recipe (adding chopped mushroom stems and cutting down on the amount of breadcrumbs used to reduce dryness), and placed in an oiled glass baking dish which would be put directly into the oven in the evening. Lastly, with my Mum’s help, I duplicated the Barbecue Duck Salad Rolls I had made a few weeks earlier for a potluck at work (thinking that a cold appetizer would be the best idea for a party where guests would be drifting in over the course of five hours). A colourful vegetable platter and dip was my last sustenance-offering. I also had a Ricardo cocktail in mind, a Pink Grapefruit-Flavoured Wine, but was to be infused for just a few hours, so I packed up my grapefruit and bottle of White Zinfandel to be prepared the next day.

I got to Jane’s place that evening at about a quarter to six, but given that our friends have a penchant for being fashionably late, we had more than enough time to heat and dress our food.

In the end, our guests were quite impressed with the spread. Jane’s dips and pita chips were a hit (I particularly liked the White Bean and Sun Dried Tomato), as were her meatballs (she also made Focaccia bread, green onion cakes, and brownies). Most people liked my cheese puffs and stuffed mushrooms (the latter were a bit dry in my opinion, and a touch too garlicky). As for the trifles, they were all right, though the thawed raspberries ended up tasting sour, and in hindsight, I should have used frozen blueberries instead. Out of all the dishes, I’d actually be most likely to make the cocktail again; inexpensive and easy to drink, it would make a great dessert “wine” to end off a meal.

After the food and some requisite Cranium, we headed to Churchill Square to watch the fireworks. Having been born and raised in Edmonton, it would be surprising to most to know that this was my first time catching them live on the Square. The music accompaniment was a bit wonky, but the fireworks themselves were very nice indeed, and lasted 13 minutes, as promised.

Though it was like pulling teeth for some (you know who you are), we had every guest write down either a resolution or a hope for 2008 on a small card, and their mailing address in a corresponding envelope, which was then sealed. These little letters will then be sent out in about 6 months’ time, to serve as written benchmarks or reminders (I can’t take credit for the idea – I stole it from Real Simple Celebrations).

Thanks again to Jane for allowing us to use your new apartment!

The chefs

The spread

Happy New Year, everyone!