Category: food

City Market Report: Week 4

It was a glorious day for the City Market – and besides not needing rain boots, an umbrella, or gloves this morning, I was able to walk to 104 Street, along lush, grass-lined paths and under the generous shade of trees just bursting with green.

En route

The crowds were back, mirroring the opening weekend in their numbers and frenzy for fresh produce.

And, they’re back!

Patrons and vendors alike seemed to be in a lighter mood with the fair weather, though I have to say I did have an unfortunate run-in with a steely-eyed gentleman who thought I was encroaching on his morel territory at the Mo-Na Foods booth (some people take their mushrooms seriously, I guess).

Morels and chanterelles

I was happy to run into a few familiar faces, including BruleeBlog, who shared the same instincts to make a run to the Edgar Farms booth first. We both checked out a new vendor, called A Taste of Brazil, with curiosity. Just in time for the start of the World Cup, they offer several Brazilian sweets, and while I was busy taking a photo, BruleeBlog overheard the staff say they will be opening up a Brazilian restaurant located somewhere downtown in September.

A Taste of Brazil

I’m really looking forward to the next month – with all of the rain (and with luck, sunshine), new produce items should be showing up every week.

Beautiful onion bunches from Kuhlmann’s

 

Lovage (used mostly as an herb) from Sundog Organics

In addition to the asparagus, I also picked up some heirloom tomato plants for my Mum from Inspired Market Gardens (they carry over a dozen varieties!), duck eggs and mixed heritage greens from Greens, Eggs and Ham, rhubarb from Sundog Organics, and cookies from Confetti Sweets.

 Heirloom tomato plants from Inspired Market Gardens

Mixed heritage greens from Greens, Eggs and Ham

Next week, the second cultural festival of the season will take place, with Portuguese dances and other performances to look forward to. See you there!

Food/Service Dissonance: New York Bagel Cafe

May and I met up on Victoria Day to catch up over brunch. While holidays are a lovely opportunity to linger with a friend over coffee, it was easier said than done. Most of the independent restaurants I could think of were either closed for the holiday, or closed on Mondays, so we resorted to options across the river. We ultimately ended up at New York Bagel Café (8430 Gateway Boulevard), the charming and cozy eatery a stone’s throw away from the bustle of Whyte Avenue.

My only previous visit was an exercise in patience, in both the wait for a table and the delay in getting our food at the table, and this experience was no different. We were second in line, but it took staff more than ten minutes to even acknowledge our existence, and no one so much as stopped to provide a ballpark estimate of the wait time. Granted, I did not envy the job of the two servers on the floor, run ragged and only halfway through the afternoon, but for such a well-established restaurant, it surprised me that they presented such a poor first impression.

After we were seated (about forty minutes later) away from the entrance and with a view of the still-shuttered patio, we were finally able to relax. Our server was friendly and she was thankfully calm at the table where she was frantic in the lobby.

While I still have qualms about their lack of drip coffee on the menu, I was satisfied with my espresso-based house coffee ($3.25) this time, served piping hot and made creamy with the addition of a side of steamed milk.

House coffee

The food was quite good as well, living up to their reputation of having great bagels and benedicts. My cheddar bagel was cheesy and toasted perfectly, and I thoroughly enjoyed the rest of my classic breakfast ($13), including my perfectly cooked scrambled eggs and well-seasoned potatoes (where a morsel of coarse salt would occasionally burst forth). The fruit accompaniment, while not necessarily rivalling Cora’s in quantity, definitely strikes a prettier note.

Classic breakfast

May equally delighted in her eggs benedict with duck ham ($19), a rich and savoury way to start the morning (my taste of the duck ham led me to believe it would make a steadfast rival to traditional bacon). Though she found the sweet apple an unusual inclusion, she still declared it among the best benedicts in the city.

Smoked duck breast and grilled apple benedict

The only other blemish during our stay came when we asked for our bill. It took the server more than fifteen minutes to bring it by. Though we didn’t mind drinking in the sunshine and ambiance, we assumed her lengthy time away meant the demand for tables had died down. However, when we later approached the door, bill in hand to pay at the register, we were surprised to see that the line was even longer than before. For New York Bagel Café’s sake, I’m hoping that day was a blip in their service delivery, because their food deserves better.

New York Bagel Café
8430 Gateway Boulevard
(780) 432-2003

The Cooking Chronicles: Wilted Pea Tendril Salad

Unlike a conventional CSA with a produce farmer, where I think the sheer quantity and new-to-me vegetables would be overwhelming for a novice cook like me, I much prefer the route of trying and experimenting with different varieties at my own pace. If you can believe it, I tried parsnips and kale for the first time in the past year.

Having challenged myself to visit the City Market every week this year, I’m finding it even easier to do this, as I am now even more aware of the burgeoning seasonal inventory that changes every week. And though I may not pick up that produce item the first time around, being able to identify it, and realizing that we can grow it in Alberta is the first step for me.

Last Saturday, I couldn’t resist buying a beautiful bouquet of pea tendrils from Sundog Organics (their lovely displays of rustic baskets alone could get me to relinquish my wallet, I think). Though I had originally intended to throw them into an odds and ends stir-fry (made up of whatever was nearing the end of its life in the crisper), I thought better of it, and began searching for a recipe that would more appropriately showcase the tendrils.

A simple, warm pea tendril salad with mushrooms and shallots ended up fitting the bill, mostly because I had all of the ingredients required, and because I wouldn’t have the opportunity to accidentally overcook the delicate greens.

Eaten raw, the pea tendrils were crisp and sweet, and would make a lovely garnish or an addition to a mixed green salad. In this warm salad, they retained their fresh bite, contrasting nicely with the softened, buttery mushrooms. It would make a great starter dish for a dinner party, or a light accompaniment with fish.

Wilted pea tendril salad with mushrooms

Have you tried any new items from the City Market lately?

Wild Fungi 101: Learning All About Edible Mushrooms with the Alberta Mycological Society

Three weeks ago, Slow Food Edmonton members and their guests packed Culina Highlands one evening, all eager to learn more about mushrooms.

No, not those kind of mushrooms – but the edible, wild varieties that are treasured by chefs and foodies alike. In fact, it is estimated that twelve to twenty-five thousand different fungi grow in Alberta, with new species found and recorded every year. That was only one of the many, many things we learned that night from Martin Osis, amateur mycologist and President of the Alberta Mycological Society (AMS). His passion for mushrooms was evident, and though we probably reached our personal mushroom knowledge threshold by the end of the two hour lecture, it was a pleasant ride because of his enthusiasm for fungi.

Prior to the session, my orientation to wild mushrooms was one of extreme caution – growing up, who didn’t have a parent who instilled an acute fear of deadly fairy rings? Unfortunately, after the session, I feel much the same. Though Martin showed us photos of a vast array of edible mushrooms – from the beautiful comb tooth to the western giant puffball (it apparently tastes like tofu) – fungi appear to be like the English language: ripe with exceptions to the rule! It seemed every generality Martin provided (such as, all Portobello mushrooms are edible…), he later countered with an exception (…except those with a yellow stalk and a bad smell).

Still, there is hope for fungi neophytes like myself! Martin recommends going with an experienced picker (the AMS organizes forays, for example) and enrolling in a mushroom course (offered locally by the Devonian Garden). Of course, joining the Mycological Society would be a great start as well, in order to connect with other interested individuals.

Martin and Thea pose with dried morels

What fascinated me the most was how a mushroom foray seemed comparable to a treasure hunt. Martin listed several visual markers that signal the beginning of morel season (which was right around the time of the lecture, actually) – blue violets start to bloom, dandelions appear, fiddleheads multiply – and I could see how exciting and caught up one could get looking for the clues. In June, oyster and red tops (soon to be Alberta’s provincial mushroom) can be found.

As Thea noted at the end of the evening, Slow Food and the Mycological Society share similar values and goals, and of course, a love of learning more about what we eat, which makes such partnered events such a natural fit. Thanks to Darren for putting the session together, and to Culina for hosting!

Food Notes for May 31, 2010

I think I need a few days to recover from the weekend – everything seems infinitely more exhausting when the weather is uncooperative, or is it just me? June is shaping up to be a busy month, so I hope the sun starts to shine (and stay!) soon. On to this week’s food notes:

  • I can barely contain my excitement – not only does Edmonton have a brand new food truck, but it serves WAFFLES! I am hoping Eva Sweet makes some downtown stops soon.
  • Looks like Nate Box has pushed back his Elm Cafe opening date to June 14. Speaking of Nate, he stopped by the Unknown Studio to talk food – take a listen here.
  • Help bid the original Padmanadi location adieu at their farewell buffet on June 2, from noon-1opm ($20/person). They hope to host the grand opening of the new digs at 101 Street and 107 Avenue on June 19, 2010.
  • There’s another food blog in town, called May Contain Nuts. Welcome to the scene, King Crabby and Jean Poutine!
  • On the topic of food blogs, the St. Albert Gazette published a feature article this weekend about the regional food blogging scene, including interviews with Nikki Stoyko of The Read Onion, Rhianna Morris of Cream and Sugar and me.
  • The Municipal Development Plan, which will help protect some local food sources, was passed last week! Thanks to the Greater Edmonton Alliance and the passionate Edmontonians who helped make this happen.
  • There are lots of other great things happening in local food – Shaw Conference Centre announced that they have planted a garden for the second year in a row, which will supply the kitchen with vegetables and herbs. Check out the photo gallery here.
  • Liane also did a great round-up of some local food initiatives on Saturday, including The Good Food Box, Locavoria and the Greens, Eggs and Ham Futures Program. Duffy even made an appearance on the photo spread!
  • On Wednesday, Calgary’s City Council votes on whether or not to allow a pilot of urban chicken coops to go forward. The name of the group pushing for this? The Canadian Urban Liberated Chicken Klub, or, CLUCK.
  • Though municipal beekeeping hasn’t been in the news as much as chickens, the discussion will begin soon enough. In Toronto, two hives have been installed on the Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts, home of the Canadian Opera Company.
  • I remember when I was a kid, with no library in my neighbourhood, a book truck would stop at the strip mall across the street every weekend. So I think this is brilliant – a mobile farmers’ market truck in NY that can offer fresh vegetables in underserved neighbourhoods – at least until something more permanent can be set up.
  • Interesting article (and fun with data) about how much money people spend for lunch in New York, based on zip code locations.
  • Though the official KFC Double Down isn’t available in Edmonton, Chris did his best to make his own version here. Not for the faint of heart!
  • So true – “Children’s menus are the death of civilization”, says a NYC restaurant owner. And I say that as someone who grew up as a picky eater.
  • More NY – though I know we’re at least five years away from “gimmicky” restaurants in Edmonton, we could probably learn something from New York’s experience.
  • We had originally picked up a fresh-to-go meal from d’Lish to serve as an emergency dinner for my sisters, they ended up not needing it. So we had it tonight, a great convenience as both Mack and I arrived home late. We were also pleased that the portion size for this dish, a chicken parmigiana with garlic and tomato pasta, was larger than our previous to-go meal. Though it was a bit pricey ($21.50), I think it’s a win-cubed instance – not only does it support local producers, but also a vibrant, independent business. And of course, fills your belly with tasty food!

 

Chicken Parmigiana from d’Lish

  • To help kill time while waiting for the next bus to arrive (and to warm our chilled selves), we stopped inside Axis Cafe on Saturday. I’ve been meaning to check out this coffee shop for some time, and was happy I finally did. It’s gorgeous inside, with two levels of comfortable furniture, funky art, and a beautiful boardroom to boot. My white hot chocolate was good, though a little lukewarm, but I’m willing to give them another shot.

 

Axis Cafe

City Market Report: Week 3

Boy, it was the weather miserable today. The rain was non-stop only until it became snow (that may have been a blessing in disguise, as the reservoirs of water that gathered in the tent crevices had me pegged today). I really hope next weekend brings sunshine – after the beautiful opening weekend I think we all deserve a day at the market without the need for gloves or a hat.

Empty street

As expected, the crowds seemed even thinner than last week, but it was good to see those who made it out regardless of the temperature. The vendors we talked to, always good humoured, stayed upbeat in spite of the cold. Patty Milligan of Lola Canola (in her first market day of the season!) said she was dressed in about eight layers. We picked up a jar of her summer honey that we’ll be using to make granola.

Patty Milligan, always smiling

Though the wet conditions this year have delayed the seeding plans for some farmers, visiting the market in the spring still means that patrons may happen upon a new seasonal produce item every week. Today, Riverbend Gardens had a different, spicier variety of radish, and Sundog Organics had lettuce and spinach available.

Radishes from Riverbend Gardens

Beautiful pea tendrils from Sundog Organics (I picked up a bunch, as well as some green onions)

These flowers looked so cheerful among all the grey

In addition to bell peppers from Doef’s, carrots from Kuhlmann’s, asparagus from Edgar Farms, sausages and ground pork from Irvings Farm Fresh, we also restocked our supply of GMO-free canola seed oil from Mighty Trio Organics. After buying my first bottle a few months ago from Planet Organic, I can’t imagine using anything other than their rich, amber-coloured oil for cooking.

Products from Mighty Trio Organics

I’m keeping my fingers crossed for warmer weather next week!

The Cooking Chronicles: It’s Asparagus Season!

I love reading the weekly updates from Edgar Farms, and in particular, seeing the first snapshots of the season capturing those darling, plucky stalks of asparagus bursting upwards from the soil. Sure, there are many ways to tell that spring is upon us, but I think it’s great that we are lucky enough to have a timely, seasonal vegetable that can act as our harbinger of spring.

Asparagus from Edgar Farms

At $6 a bunch, they’re not an inexpensive purchase at the City Market, but for the product’s freshness and ability to easily last a week in the fridge, they’re worth the cost.

Roasted Asparagus

What’s better than a side of simple, roasted asparagus? Tossed with some olive oil, salt and pepper, and placed in a 450 degree oven for 8 minutes or so, the crisp-tender stalks are bright and tasty.

Roasted asparagus

Asparagus Pesto

I’ve written in the past about my love of the versatile dip/spread as my office potluck staple dish – it allows me to escape the pre-lunch crush at the stove/microwave as my fellow colleagues rush to heat up their contribution. And, really, it’s allowed me to try out new recipes without having to commit to eating an entire sampling myself.

This time, an asparagus pesto recipe in the NYT caught my eye, and its radiant green hue seemed perfect for a spring potluck. I threw the blanched asparagus pieces with some of the cooking liquid, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil, parmesan, black pepper and a dash of lemon juice into the food processor and blended everything until the mixture was creamy.

The result was a smooth, hearty dip with a deep, earthy flavour, and one that I am happy to say solicited many requests for the recipe.

Asparagus pesto

It’s a versatile pesto, and one that I look forward to trying with pasta as well, as suggested in the recipe.

What’s your favourite way to enjoy asparagus?

A Taste of Cellar Door Cake & Catering Co.

Earlier this month, I mentioned that The Cake House (12415 107 Avenue) was no more. A sign posted on the door said that a new establishment would take its place soon, called Cellar Door Cake and Catering Co. I was curious as to what they would be offering – more savoury or sweet items? I didn’t have to wait long to find out.

Cellar Door

A few weeks ago, owners Darren Zwicker and Maria Chau extended a tasting invitation to us. Darren is the Executive Chef with over ten years of cooking experience, and has worked with the Canadian Pacific and Westin Hotel chains, and most recently, for the Royal Mayfair Golf Club as Banquet Chef and Executive Sous Chef. Maria is a lawyer by day, but fully supports Darren in his first solo venture.

Darren and Maria

Darren had started catering about two and a half years ago, and at some point decided that he wanted to pursue the business full-time. He and Maria started looking for spaces downtown so he could be close to office towers, but rent was prohibitively expensive. They eventually came across this location just off High Street, with previous tenant Silvia Salas rendered unable to work due to an injury and thus looking to end her lease.

The new tenant

While Darren’s main focus is on catering, Cellar Door does offer take out items, including two daily soup options ($6) and a chicken caesar salad ($8). They also carry a half dozen desserts, from lemon, blueberry and strawberry tarts ($3.25), pecan tarts ($3.50) and a mini blackforest ($5.50). Though they had considered selling coffee and tea, without a publicly-accessible washroom, they are unable to do so. Cellar Door offers specialty cakes as well.

 

Specialty cake and pastry case

Though we expected a more informal tasting – perhaps a glass of wine, and casual plates of appetizers, it turned out that it was an intimate affair, with only two other people invited. Darren and Maria had set-up a full sampling of Cellar Door’s different catering options.

Simple but pretty set-up (I love the warm brown space and the white curtains)

Twenty minutes passed and we realized they weren’t coming – it would be just the four of us. Having just met Darren and Maria, it could have been a really awkward evenning, but I am happy to say it wasn’t. Darren and Maria are easygoing and not surprisingly, love food, so we had a good time chatting about favourite restaurants (Darren’s pick is the Red Ox Inn), travel (they most recently trekked to Hawaii), and our mutual love of hot dogs (convincing them that they need to check out Calgary’s scene of Tubby Dog and Le Chien Chaud).

Cool parting knives Darren had received as gifts from the Royal Mayfair

We started with a duo of soups – caramelized onion in a red wine broth and a hearty minestrone. The red wine broth was nicely flavoured and not overwhelming, but our favourite actually turned out to be the minestrone. Naturally thickened with softened beans and chickpeas, it was brimming with tender vegetables and pasta.

Caramelized onion and hearty minestrone soups

The crostini, topped with chipotle-marinated chicken and an apple slaw, was a great example of simple ingredients done right. The chicken was fantastic, seasoned well, and I loved the subtly-sweet addition of the julienned apple.

Chipotle-marinated chicken and apple slaw crostini

Darren’s puff pastry flatbread is a favourite of his catering clients. I loved the presentation on the wooden paddle, and though it was a bit greasy, the trade-off of biting into a buttery base topped with cheese, tasty Italian sausage, and the perfect amount of caramelized onions was worth it.

Puff pastry flatbread with caramelized onion, Italian sausage and basil

The sample entree was a meal in itself, starring a Boursin-stuffed chicken breast, accompanied with a potato-bacon hash, green beans and a white wine velouté. I wouldn’t have thought to use Boursin as a savoury stuffing, but it worked well, lighter than ricotta and a good match with spinach and onion. Mack agreed that the star of the plate, however, was the sauce – creamy and rich, we didn’t hesitate to swathe every bite in the velouté.

Stuffed chicken breast in white wine velouté

For dessert, Darren prepared apple galettes as well as his signature ginger molasses cake, containing a layer of pear compote and iced with cream cheese. Made with a short crust, the rustic tarts were delectable, with a beautiful glaze on the edges. With the cake, Maria had warned us that the ginger flavour would be quite pronounced, but as a non-ginger fan, I didn’t notice it. The molasses, on the other hand, made the dessert quite dense, so between our dinner at home that night and this second meal (I felt like a Hobbit), I unhappily admitted defeat.

Ginger molasses cake and apple galette

With their warm hospitality, we felt well taken care of, and grateful for the opportunity to taste Darren’s fare. I am sure their business and profile will continue to rise, if tonight’s food was any indication. Best of luck Darren and Maria, and I hope to stop by again soon!

Cellar Door Cake & Catering Co.
12415 107 Avenue
(780) 451-8882
Store hours: Monday-Friday noon-6:30pm, closed weekends and holidays
Call anytime for catering and consultations; e-mail Cellar Door for a copy of the catering menu

Come One, Come All: Freewill Shakespeare Festival Picnic Contest

The Freewill Shakespeare Festival (formerly known as the River City Shakespeare Festival) is one of Edmonton’s most popular summer events, presenting live theatre at the Heritage Amphitheatre at Hawrelak Park. There’s nothing quite the same as taking in a play outdoors on a warm evening – between the story and the venue, I find I’m easily transported elsewhere, ushered away on a cloud of beautiful language and the calm of night.

The 2010 incarnation of the festival will see, as with every year, a comedy and a tragedy: Much Ado About Nothing and Macbeth will be returning to the stage. It looks like Macbeth is getting a Cold War-era makeover, and with James MacDonald at the helm, it’s sure to be a powerful production.

This year, in an effort to reiterate the outdoor nature of the shows, the Festival has come up with a novel way of combining two of my favourite things: theatre and food.

FREEWILL Foodie Picnic Contest

Calling all foodies! The FREEWILL Shakespeare Festival is thrilled to partner with Sunterra Market in the search for the perfect picnic to bring down to the park this summer.

Post your perfect picnic details on the FREEWILL Facebook page, or include it in a post on your personal blog, to enter to win a great prize pack including: two Festival Passes, a $100 gift certificate to Sunterra Market, and reserved picnic seating on the date of your choice. Marianne Copithorne, Freewill Artistic Director, and John Kirkpartrick, Guest Director, will be judging the contest.

All entries must include the opening line:

“The FREEWILL Shakespeare Festival celebrates its 22nd season, June 29 – July 25 at the Heritage Amphitheatre in Hawrelak Park. My dream picnic from Sunterra Market…”

Entries must be posted to the FREEWILL Facebook page no later than 4:00 PM on June 28, 2010. If you are posting on a personal blog, please paste the URL link to the post on the FREEWILL Facebook page or email the link prior to the closing date.

I think this contest is a great way to remind people that the Freewill Shakespeare Festival is an opportunity to have a different night out – not only to take in wonderful productions in a beautiful setting, but also to make it a full experience with your favourite nibbles and snacks.

I look forward to seeing your picnic basket creations!

Food Notes for May 24, 2010

I’m almost ashamed to admit we slept as much as we did these past few days, but it was clear we needed it – and what better time to rest and relax indoors than a grey and rainy long weekend? On to this week’s food notes:

  • Mark your calendar! The second annual Al Fresco 104th Street Block Party is taking place on June 12 this year. Expect two sound stages, a Portuguese BBQ, a crostini bar from Red Star’s Daniel Costa, and a screening of Chocolat – all underneath a canopy of stars! Mack and I went last year, and enjoyed ourselves.
  • Looks like Wild Earth Bakery has made the move to the revamped portion of their cafe. Check out Marianne and Cathy’s posts for a peek inside.
  • Vue Weekly published a piece on the renovated Parkallen Restaurant this week. It seems as if the owners are trying to woo a younger clientele.
  • There’s a new Edmonton food blog on the scene – welcome, Steph of Crisp & Chewy!
  • From Valerie: Jeff Sutherland has started an Eating Paleo in Edmonton group, which is a “meetup of like-minded people to help you achieve optimal health by eating real food! Share recipes, tips, advice, support, and inspiration. Maybe most importantly, help each other source real food that is local, ethical, and sustainably produced.”
  • Upside-down gardening seems to be all the rage right now – this NYT article is a good primer on the trend.
  • On the subject of the upcoming World Cup – a few local bars have applied to open earlier in order to accommodate potential viewers; and deVine’s is hosting a World Cup-themed tasting on June 19.
  • Heading to Vancouver soon and needing pointers for good eats? Check out Vancouver Magazine’s 2010 restaurant awards.
  • Hellmann’s is providing $100,000 in Real Food Grants to “support initiatives that bring Canadian families and kids together with real food in their community.” Deadline to apply is June 30, 2010.
  • I have never seen pancakes as intense as Jim’s. Think I’m kidding? Check out this three-dimensional ferris wheel.
  • Some things should never be made vegan, like KFC’s Double Down sandwich, for instance.
  • Flavours (10354 82 Avenue) on Whyte is no more – Pour House will be taking its place.

Pour House

  • “The legend returns”, or so proclaims the sign outside the former Ivory Club downtown (10304 111 Street), which has been reclaimed and will once again become the sports pub Overtime on July 1, 2010.

Overtime returns

  • We stopped by the original Transcend over the weekend to pick up a bag of beans, and was confronted by a line up a dozen people deep. Nice to know the business hasn’t slowed at that location since T2 opened up! We joked around with some patrons behind us that there should have been a “beans only” express line, but no dice.

Love the new vacuum-sealed packaging!

  • Mack and I are suckers for novel-flavoured chips, so we couldn’t pass by a display of PC’s Ballpark Hot Dog chips ($2.50) without picking up a bag. From the description on the bag, we were expecting hints of hot dog, mustard and relish, but unfortunately, the chips tasted predominantly like relish, or a variation of dill pickle.

PC Ballpark Hot Dog chips

  • One of my coworkers moonlights as a cake decorator at a local bakery. For a potluck at work, she demonstrated her talents with two brilliant desserts – a tiered Coca-Cola can and a giant hamburger. She even had tiny little hamburger cupcakes, made with layers of white cake (the bun), chocolate cake (the patty), and orange, green, red and yellow icing (for cheese, relish, ketchup and mustard). Too cute!

Beautiful cakes