Category: Edmonton

Food Notes for July 20, 2009

The City Centre Market has invited me to kick off market day this Saturday, July 25 by ringing a bell up and down the lines of stalls. Past “bellringers” this year have included Mayor Mandel and Geoff Linden of Credo Coffee. I’m so honoured to have been asked, and excited for the opportunity! Now on to this week’s food notes:

  • Liane Faulder broke stories about two new restaurants in the works. First, Nate Box, formerly of the Sugar Bowl, will be launching a new eatery in October in the space currently occupied by Hulbert’s, which is closing in July. Look for a menu featuring local food.
  • Liane also posted today about Health Fare’s second location in the Adecco Building downtown. It will be a fantastic location for them, and the best thing? They will support ordering via text messaging.
  • Scott McKeen wrote a story about Credo Coffee and Axis Cafe – will 104th and Jasper become a great coffee juncture in Edmonton?
  • This New York writer is so over cupcakes. Though Edmonton is far from cupcakery-saturation, I know some in the city are feeling like their patience for cupcakes is waning.
  • Tim Horton’s has moved into the U.S. How will Americans warm to the Canadian institution?
  • At Superstore last week I spied a new culinary-focused publication called The Food Magazine. With Bon Appetit and Gourmet struggling to stay afloat, it’s rather gutsy for the magazine to launch at this time. That said, it’s focus on well-known stars of the food world does match with the public’s increasing thirst for cooking stories and techniques from chef-turned-celebrities.
  • Bazaar asked an interesting question – are there certain products you feel you cannot buy generic? Heinz ketchup and Kraft peanut butter are two for me.
  • Mack and I had a quick dinner at Elephant & Castle before Food, Inc. last week. I haven’t been there in a while, but boy, was the food disappointing. Mack’s plate of fish and chips was lined with an admittedly novel E & C “newspaper”, but that was nearly all that was good with his dish. The gravy atop my chicken pot pie was a mistake – it made the potentially crispy crust soggy all the way through.

 

Fish and Chips

 

Chicken Pot Pie

  • My coworker offered to split an order of food from the African Somali Restaurant (101, 10610 105 Street, 780-423-6614) about a block away from our office on Friday. I have never been there (my usual haunts are in Chinatown), but I have to say it was quite good. This was my first experience with goat – stewed, it had a mild flavour but a texture similar more to beef than anything else. The “Somali rice” was really the star of the show though – my coworker said it had been soaked, cooked with a number of spices, then finished in the oven. Whatever the technique, it was delicious.

 

Goat, Somali rice and salad ($12)

Farm Visit: Nature’s Green Acres

On Monday afternoon, I had the privilege of accompanying Chef Sebastian Lysz to meet one of his clients. Since leaving Devlin’s in March due to a carpal tunnel-related ailment, Sebastian has started a culinary consulting company called Relish.

We drove to Viking, just under two hours east of Edmonton to meet Danny and Shannon Ruzicka of Nature’s Green Acres. The Ruzickas have two young children (with another on the way) and have been farming for about six years. They currently raise cattle, pigs and chickens, mostly for direct sale. As a small family farm, they are working with Sebastian to grow their capacity over the next year, and hope to supply several Edmonton restaurants with their products beginning in the fall, in addition to eventually having a weekly presence at the city’s farmers’ markets.

Shannon and Danny Ruzicka (their dog Nash crashed the photo)

All of their animals are hormone free, pasture-raised and grass fed. With the dry weather conditions up until last week, the Ruzickas were certain they would have been forced to fold if rain hadn’t arrived (hay bales are up to $200 each). Although I had read stories about the drought affecting farmers, hearing Shannon and Danny’s story firsthand made it all the more real.

Shannon points out an area of pasture still crunchy and brown

Shannon and Danny were more than happy to provide a tour of the farm – the transparency of it all was so refreshing. We started with the pigs – 20 animals contained within a movable pen, with continuous access to water. The pen is hitched to a truck at least twice a day to be moved, which ensures the pigs have access to fresh greenery.

Moving the pig pen

Seeing the pigs swish their tails around, ecstatic with fresh grass available, I thought back to Joel Salatin’s comment about how animals are happy when they are able to do the things they were naturally meant to do. I had no doubt that these pigs looked happy.

Four month old pigs

Next up were the cattle. Their 31 cattle have a large run of the land, and obviously require the most space of all the animals. As their farm totals 480 acres, just how much land is required to support the grass-fed approach blew my mind – such a contrast to the industrial system of grain-fed CAFOs.

Cattle out in the field

Nature’s Green Acres is the only farm to produce what they call “nouveau beef”. Instead of butchering the cattle at the conventional 18-20 months, they are butchered at a much younger age – 6 months, in fact. The result is very tender beef with naturally less fat.

What are you looking at?

Our last stop was a viewing of an area of their land that archaeologists have said may have been a buffalo jump at some point. With a pool of water at the valley’s base and an uninterrupted view of green, Shannon brought up a novel idea of holding an outdoor barbecue on the site – similar in nature to vineyards hosting meals in the orchard itself. Sebastian and I thought it was a great concept – I will definitely be posting details of the dinner if it happens on my blog.

Potential buffalo jump

Shannon and Danny were beyond hospitable – they did not just invite us onto the farm and into their home, but also prepared a hearty, home-cooked meal for us. Barbecued rib steaks with mustard, lemon juice, garlic and olive oil were served with a sage onion compote alongside mashed potatoes and an apple, avocado and feta salad. The steaks were by far the star of the meal, undeniably tender and flavourful.

Visiting farmers’ markets and speaking with producers firsthand are one thing, but seeing the land that allows it all to happen is something else entirely. Thanks to Shannon and Danny for their hospitality and allowing me a peek into their daily lives – I certainly have a greater appreciation for where my food comes from. And thanks of course to Sebastian for taking me along for the ride!

Watch my blog for updates about when products from Nature’s Green Acres are available in the city – at restaurants and beyond.

Food Notes for July 14, 2009

Apologies for being a day late with my food notes. But sometimes, life gets in the way.

  • My first attempt at “growing” something isn’t going too well – my basil have been overrun by aphids. The ironic thing is – Mack’s balcony is usually a haven for ladybugs…except when I need them most. A few people have suggested spraying the plants with a heavily diluted water and dish detergent spray, which I have done. I hope that helps, but I am open to other suggestions!
  • Original Fare’s discount dining days, also called Fork Fest, starts next week. It runs from July 19-23 and 26-30, with fixed course meals offered at $20 and $35 price points. Notoriously slow with menu information, scope out your picks and make recommendations once all the information is up.
  • The Journal kicked off their spotlight on CSAs on Sunday, with three feature articles by Sheila Pratt. She spent some time with Graham Sparrow of Sparrow’s Nest Organics (it surprised me to learn they only offer 35 shares in their farm). Watch on Wednesday for Liane’s first of a series of recipes inspired by their weekly produce delivery.
  • The latest issue of Alberta Views is focused on food, and contains a local food guide, and a great piece by Kris Vester, a young Carstairs farmer who shares his experience supplying the city with sustainably grown produce.
  • Chris from Eating is the Hard Part checked out Edmonton’s newest cupcakery this weekend – Cake Couture.
  • Cyrilles Koppert and his revamped tapas menu at Manor Cafe was featured in the Journal over the weekend (I’m still waiting for the new website though!).
  • Isabelle over at The Little Red Kitchen spent some time with the ladies behind the Eatery at the ARTery, and will have some behind-the-scenes pictures up on her blog soon.
  • A reminder that Kerstin’s Chocolates’ The Cocoa Room is closing for the month of August because of the heat – while Chocophilia is available online and through other stores, there’s nothing like a trip through temptation.
  • Mack and I stopped by Vi’s for Pies for dessert along our after-dinner walk last week. We sampled their oreo cake. Made with layers of pound cake, it wasn’t exactly a light item, but it was enjoyable. We couldn’t figure out what gave the dessert its name, however, besides the token chocolate-drizzled cookie on top.

Oreo Cake from Vi’s for Pies

Slow Food Edmonton’s 4th Annual Wild Boar and Beer BBQ

Sunshine (and a steady breeze) flooded the skies for Slow Food Edmonton’s 4th Annual Wild Boar and Beer BBQ today, held at Alley Kat Brewery.

Wild Boar and Beer BBQ

I had helped with some of the early promotion, including putting together a scavenger hunt, but this was my first time attending the event. I found it to be well-organized, complete with volunteers directing cars to parking spaces.

All of Alley Kat’s beers were on tap, and attendees were not limited in the number of glasses they could drink. I stuck with my tried and true favourite of Aprikat (which, upon further inspection of the label, reads “beer cooler”), while Mack cooled off with Charlie Flint’s Original Lager.

Beer!

In addition to beer, our $35 ticket also granted us one heaping plate of food, all sourced locally. Chef Sebastian Lysz put together a menu that included: wild boar from Hog Wild Specialties with accompanying mustard from Walden Foods, tomato, mixed greens, mushroom and coleslaw salads from Greens Eggs and Ham, Lola Canola Honey and Morinville Greenhouses, bread from Tree Stone Bakery, Pinocchio ice cream and Saskatoon berry tarts.

 

Buffet-style line-up

 

Boar carving station

 

Mack helps himself

The boar didn’t taste gamey at all, and was moist and nicely marbled all the way through. Up against pork, however, I’m not sure I would have been able to taste the difference. Mack preferred the crunchy, gristly bits of the end-pieces.

 

Our plates

For our meal, we were privy to the company of Lea and her husband Rob, and Jim and his wife Elaine. Thanks for the conversation about food and travels!

Dawn Desmarais and her band provided entertainment all afternoon, a mix of covers and original songs, seemingly all dedicated to her ex-boyfriends. Perhaps it was a joke that we missed.

 

Dawn Desmarais

I also had the chance to meet Maria, the winner of the boar and beer scavenger hunt.

 

With Maria, who isn’t the slightest bit camera shy!

After our meal, we decided to take advantage of the tours being offered of Alley Kat’s microbrewery. As an employee of Labatt recently relayed that they can do what Alley Kat does in a year in three days, it helped put the craft brewing business in perspective. All of the stages of their beer production are far from automated, and it was interesting to be able to see all of the work that goes into a bottle of Alley Kat Beer.

 On the tour

 

Bottling and packing area

Thanks to Tara of Slow Food Edmonton for spearheading the work, Neil and the rest of the staff at Alley Kat for hosting, and to the volunteers and producers who made Wild Boar and Beer possible. It was a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon!

“Food, Inc.” Edmonton Premiere

I’ve been looking forward to the Edmonton premiere of Food, Inc. since I started reading about the buzz surrounding the movie at its June 12 premiere in New York (NYT review here). Michael Pollan of The Omnivore’s Dilemma and In Defence of Food fame narrates, so those who have read either of those books will likely already anticipate the film’s content and thesis. For those who aren’t familiar with his work, here is a synopsis of Food, Inc.:

“You are what you eat. It is a simple expression that bears scary implications as you watch the acclaimed documentary, Food, Inc. Director Robert Kenner draws upon the searing reportage of authors Eric Schlosser (Fast Food Nation) and Michael Pollan (The Omnivore’s Dilemma) to explore how modern developments in food production pose grave risks to our health and environment. These writers aren’t radicals or even vegetarians (Schlosser admits that his favourite meal is a hamburger and fries), but they are crusaders when it comes to exposing problems and naming offenders. There are stories of heartbreak and outrage, but the film carefully channels these emotions towards opportunities for activism. Watching Food, Inc. gives you a strong appetite for better meals.”

If you have been as eager to see the movie as I have been, you will also be excited to know that there is a special screening taking place on Wednesday, July 15 at 7pm at Empire City Centre Cinemas, and I have been provided with 5 double-guest passes by a company representing Alliance Films in Alberta to give away! Following the screening there will be a Q & A with a special guest panel featuring food experts, including Ron Berezan, The Urban Farmer.

If you are available and interested in attending, please leave a comment with a valid e-mail address below (in the e-mail address field, not the comment itself) by noon on July 12. I will randomly select five names and contact the winners by e-mail on Sunday evening.

Good luck!

Food, Inc.
Classification: PG (Mature Subject Matter)
Premieres in Edmonton on July 17 at the Garneau Theatre

A Well-Oiled Machine: Cactus Club Cafe

After running some errands in the west end, Mack and I converged on Cactus Club Cafe for dinner, spurned on somewhat by gift cards we had on hand. Our first trip since being pampered at their VIP opening, we were ready to see what the restaurant offered on a day-to-day basis.

I was happy to see that the patio was open, but as both the dining room and outdoor seating required at least a fifteen minute wait, we elected instead to wander into the half-full lounge. About a half hour later, the lounge was packed, so we were happy to arrive when we did.

The bellini was calling my name that day, and as I found at the opening, it was refreshing yet deceivingly potent. On a more elegant occasion, I would have ordered the sablefish, but I felt like fries and a sandwich that day. I was eager to sample a full-size version of their BBQ duck clubhouse ($17), which had been my favourite item that night in April. Mack decided on their aptly named The Burger ($14), which also seemed fitting for the lounge setting. As Mack was feeling a bit puckish, we also sprung for the smoked cheddar spinach dip ($11.25) to start.

Bellini

Service was brisk throughout our stay; Cactus Club was rolling like a well-oiled machine. Our appetizer arrived in good time, hot and perfectly cheesy. I typically don’t seek out spinach dips, but this version, packed with grilled chicken, fresh tomatoes, parmesan and mozzarella, took the edge off the sour cream.

Smoked Cheddar Spinach Dip

My duck clubhouse arrived looking rather small, but once I started to devour the sandwich, I realized its richness more than made up for size. It was a bit messy to eat, but the layers of carved duck, pan-fried chicken, and crisped pancetta, sandwiched between pecan fruit bread, were worth it. The fries were hot and crispy, but nothing special.

BBQ Duck Clubhouse

Mack’s burger was even more of a task to eat – the pool of liquid at the bottom of his plate grew to a formidable size by the end. He liked it – a juicy, tender patty, coupled with classic toppings of aged cheddar, sautéed mushrooms, and bacon.

The Burger

As WEM restaurants go, Cactus Club is my new go-to eatery after a day of shopping. I’m just not sure I’d go out of my way to eat there, knowing that a crowd and a car jam would be waiting for me.

Cactus Club Cafe
1946, 8882 170 Street NW
(780) 489-1002

Food Notes for July 6, 2009

  • Capital Ex released the Sip! wine and food experience menu. We went last year – I would recommend sticking around for the CookTop shows to score free samples instead of purchasing tickets – this year, the stage features Brad Smoliak and Restaurant Makeover’s David Adjey.
  • Transcend released its first podcast last week, which sees Poul talk about how he got his start in the coffee business. Also, with mention of their second cafe location in a recent post, I hope they can release details soon!
  • I passed La Piazza Dasee, which is apparently now serving brunch on Sundays from 10am-2pm. As it looked like they didn’t have a full kitchen, I’d be curious to see what types of dishes they serve.
  • The Journal and Liane Faulder on her blog covered the opening of the new T & T in North Town Mall on July 2. There are also unconfirmed rumours floating around that the vacant Wal-Mart space in South Common will become another T & T.
  • Also with regards to Liane – she’s Delux Burger Bar’s second celebrity chef for their “burger of the month” promotion. Her lamb burger will be featured at Delux for the month of August.
  • Vue Weekly had a solid write-up of businesses along 118 Avenue this week, including the Portuguese Bakery.
  • The Journal profiled local company Bles-Wold Dairy this week – their product makes it “from the cow to the store” in three days.
  • The Canadian Farm Writer’s Federation is hosting their national conference in Edmonton this year. There are a few interesting sessions, including farm tours – check out the September schedule here.
  • Food Inc., a movie about industrial food production that has been called a “horror film” in its own right, will land in Edmonton on July 17 at the Garneau Theatre.
  • Alan Richman wrote a great piece in the August issue of Bon Appetit about the duelling forces at work in Vancouver’s food scene.
  • I missed linking to an article that appeared in the NYT two weeks ago about mid-price chains lowering their prices, and the impact that may have on their future ability to raise their prices to pre-recession standards.
  • The Chicago Tribune points to their nine menu pet peeves. My favourite: “‘Garden Fresh’ –
    Rick Bayless garnishes with microgreens grown in his Bucktown garden. He has the right to say garden fresh. You don’t, Subway.”
  • Mack and I joined his dad, grandma, Kim and Shane for supper at Original Joe’s on Friday. I’ve written about them in the past, and my opinion hasn’t changed much since then. Consistent and casual, they provided a casual venue for a decent meal. The fish and chips ($15.99) were pretty good, with a nice, light batter. Mack also enjoyed his smoked turkey club wrap ($11.49).

 

Fish and Chips

 

Smoked Turkey Club Wrap

  • The new Anthropologie in West Edmonton Mall has transformed the space into a homey, rustic store. I love their selection of kitchen goods, including, on a recent visit, wooden ice cream spoons. Retro cool, but not worth the $9.95 price tag.

 

Wooden Ice Cream Spoons from Anthropologie

Edmonton’s Coffee Scene is Perking Up: Credo Coffee

Cafes that offer specialty coffees are rapidly gaining ground and market share in Edmonton. Just to name a few – Three Bananas, Leva, daCapo, and of course, Transcend, are elevating what coffee lovers should expect from a cup of joe. More exciting than a consistent, high quality product, however, these cafes employ well-trained baristas, where coffee is not just a job, but a passion.

I’m happy to report that the specialty coffee scene has just gained another member in the city – Credo Coffee opened its doors at the end of June on the ground floor of the Icon Tower, located in the trendy and boutique-lined 104th Street. It is definitely a welcome downtown addition – I’m surprised it took so long for a cafe of this nature to materialize in the core.

Credo Coffee

Geoff Linden, formerly of Three Bananas, and who has also pulled shots at Transcend (he said himself that the specialty coffee scene in Edmonton is a small one), is behind this venture. Credo’s tagline, “coffee to believe in” draws attention to their commitment to fine coffee. While they are not in the business of roasting, they do serve only Intelligensia Direct Trade Coffee: “For a coffee to be considered Intelligensia Direct Trade there is a specific list of criteria that must be met by both Intelligentsia and our grower-partners.  In the broadest terms these coffees should be understood as a true collaboration, with both sides investing a great deal of time, energy and ideas to produce something great.”

Kenya Thunguri – one of the two brewed coffees Credo was serving

Not satisfied with simply serving great coffee (menu here), Credo also offers specialty teas, and further distinguishes itself from other cafes with fresh sandwiches and baked goods all made in-house.

The cafe is bright, benefits from a lofty openness afforded by a high ceiling and had a vibe similar to Calgary’s Caffe Artigiano. I think Credo could rearrange their seating area to further maximize their space, but I did appreciate that their table placement did allow for easy movement. In addition, like some other food establishments in the city such as Culina Highlands, Credo exhibits art work created by local artists.

Interior

Mack chose to try their macchiato ($3.25), nicely finished with latte art. I opted for a brewed dark-roast coffee ($2.50, though price could vary depending on origin), which was full-bodied and rich. It was a touch acidic, but as I am used to drinking my coffee with milk, that was expected.

Macchiato

Brewed Coffee

I hope Credo is able to secure external signage soon – with the ongoing construction in the area, it is easy to miss! I encourage you to stop by, and revel in downtown’s first specialty coffee cafe!

Credo Coffee
10134 104 Street
(780) 761-3744
Monday-Friday 7pm-9pm, Saturday 8am-9pm, Sunday 10am-5pm

Fun on the (Victoria Driving) Range

Every time we passed by the golfers at the Victoria Driving Range last year, we declared our intention to join them that summer. Unfortunately, those declarations never spun into action. This year, Mack made it a point to incorporate the driving range into my birthday activities, so we ended up there on a Sunday afternoon after brunch at the Mac (sans dress and heels).

Victoria Driving Range

Neither of us golf (the last time for me was in Grade 10 phys. ed), so it is no surprise that we looked out of place, in a sea of golf wear and bags of clubs (even the few children at the range had their own appropriately-sized bag of clubs). For less than $20, though, even amateurs like us were able to get some fun out of it – $3 for a club rental, and $7.50 and $9 for a large and extra large bucket of balls, respectively.

We definitely could have used some instruction on stance and swing, but watching the pros next to us provided enough visual guidance for that day. It was a little intimidating having to shoot next to a concerted “whap” sound (the club our neighbour was using was at least 10 inches thick), but with luck and repetition, we were both able to experience the instant gratification of a crisp, clean shot.

 

Readying for a shot

Mack swings!

All in all, it was a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon, drinking in the beauty of Edmonton while changing up our weekend routine.

Ballroom Brunch: Sunday Brunch at the Mac

Instead of our usual upscale birthday dinner, I decided to substitute an upscale birthday brunch. The Sunday brunch in the Empire Ballroom at Hotel MacDonald, priced at $48 per person, is undoubtedly the most expensive in the city, a seeming extravagance even in times of excess. I had heard positive things about the buffet from others, however, and decided it was worth the experimental splurge.

Mack and I embraced the opportunity to dress up, though I suspected we might be overdressed. I was right – some patrons were in their weekend finery, while others were clean casual at best, in faded jeans and shorts. While I respect that patrons can choose their level of formality, it just seemed more fitting for this particular setting to aim for elegance. The ballroom, flush with natural light, had an inherent grandness to it, with high, detailed ceilings and numerous chandeliers. I loved the quiet ambiance and the reflective history of the space, acknowledging that the venue has served many significant guests throughout its time.

Empire Ballroom

Our tableside view

When we arrived, we were greeted by a very professional hostess, who gave us a tour of the food selections before showing us to our seat – a mix of hot and cold breakfast and lunch options were available, including carving and omelette stations. A dessert bar was situated in the ballroom itself.

Pastries and salad bar

Cold seafood selections

Dessert bar

Soon after sitting down, our server immediately offered us a cocktail of champagne and fresh orange juice. Much to my surprise, our drink was continually filled up throughout our stay, instead of a one-glass offering, which is what I was expecting. The mimosa was actually quite refreshing, in a way that urged us on to fill up just “one more plate”.

I resisted the urge to try everything (a mistake I often make at buffets, usually too late to enjoy the quality entrees), and instead was initially selective with what I chose. We skipped over the salads and the soup, but were swayed by the flaky pastries to start. The hot breakfast entrees also made an appearance on our first plates, which included corned beef hash, maple sausage, bacon, pancakes and eggs benedict. Our conclusion: it was darn good bacon, and the cinnamon pastry wasn’t bad either.

Mack’s first helping of bacon

Mack’s plate #1

My plate #1

Our second helpings involved a mixture of breakfast and lunch entrees, though Mack focused more on the former, a traditionalist when it comes to his first meal of the day. Of the lunch entrees, which included pasta, chicken, roast beef, lamb and halibut, the oven-roasted halibut was the standout, enveloped in a creamy sauce. The charcuterie and cheese plates were nice additions as well.

Cheese plate

Mack’s plate #2

My plate #2

A custom omelette formed our third course, where anything from shrimp, ham, tomatoes, bell peppers, mushroom and cheese could be thrown in. While the omelettes were good, it was the novelty of selecting ingredients and watching the dish be prepared that made it special.

My mushroom, ham, bell pepper and cheese omelette

Dessert finished us off. It was tough not to take one of each off the dessert table, which appealed to the eyes first. There were warm crepes and chocolate fondue in addition to an array of cold desserts, including sliced fruit, cheesecakes, mousse, and slightly out of place, rainbow Jell-O. Mack tried a slice of the chocolate cheesecake, but found it too rich for his liking. He instead preferred (yes), the martini glass of cubed Jello-O. I had some fruit dipped in the chocolate fondue, but my favourite dessert had to be the maple and white chocolate mousse – light and almost frothy, the mousse just melted in my mouth.

Dessert!

The meal had occurred at such a leisurely pace that, filled to the brim, we were taken aback that two hours had somehow passed. The service was exceptional throughout; unlike some buffets where drink orders and refills are sporadic and inconsistent, the wait staff checked on us continuously, without seeming intrusive or redundant. When we needed an extra hand to help us take a photograph, our server didn’t hesitate to accompany us outside for a quick snapshot on the patio either.

During our meal, we had seen numerous parties take advantage of the glorious day by wandering the grounds just outside the ballroom. We followed in their footsteps, and took in the view of the river valley, as well as the impressive angle of the hotel from behind.

Hotel MacDonald

Me and Mack

We both agreed that while neither of us consumed $48 worth of food that day, we had paid for a quality meal offering countless choices, a fair share of pampering, and a setting fit for royalty. We may not do it again, but it was a great venue to celebrate an occasion with a loved one.

Hotel MacDonald
10065 – 100th Street
(780) 424-5181
Sunday Brunch served from 10am-2pm