- A profile I wrote about Cindy Lazarenko of Culina Highlands hit the stands on Thursday. I was remiss with the space limitations for that article in particular, because I felt I had so much more I could write. So here’s a quote I would have shared if I had more room: “You watch these Food Network [shows and] it doesn’t have to be like that – oh Rachel Ray makes these half hour dinners– [but] did you see the list of ingredients? Do you have that much money? It would cost so much money to make all these different things. It really just has to be simple – roasted chicken. Have chicken and vegetables and potatoes. And then the next day you can have a chicken quesadilla with the leftover chicken. Keep it simple. We don’t have to eat every ethnic food out there for dinner every night. We just really need to eat basic food. It doesn’t have to be elaborate. To me it’s not that difficult to just cook.”
- See Magazine reviewed the new Kai Asian Grill last week (I’m hoping they fix the alignment of the article soon; it looks like they just debuted a new website), and Allan Kellogg put the Silk Hat to the test in the Journal.
- I passed by a new Good Earth Cafe in the government district (12056 Jasper Avenue) the other day. It looked really nice from the outside at least.
- Another gadget very few would have room for in their kitchen: a microwave s’mores maker.
- A story I first saw on CNN, but worth reading about – a farm couple opened their farm up to anyone who wanted to pick their leftover vegetables, and 40,000 people showed up.
- Also a sort of “harvest”, and only Andrea could send this to me – a cookbook full of recipes where human semen is an ingredient.
Author: Sharon Yeo
Thoughts on Blogging and Photography in the Restaurant Sphere
Two years ago, when I started this blog, I never thought I would have to defend what I chose to cover. At some point, the majority of my posts became food-related, and I embraced this topic, developing various streams of content, including cooking trials, restaurant reviews, and a weekly roundup of culinary stories.
Last month, an awkward run-in with the manager at 100 Bar and Kitchen led me to further examine my role as a blogger and disseminator of information and opinions.
To recap what happened: Mack was taking photos of the interior of 100 when Dean, the manager of the resto-pub, stopped him. In Mack’s words:
“He then told me that I couldn’t just take photos without getting permission first. When I asked him why, he stumbled a bit and then said he had no way of knowing whether I was from a competitor or not. He asked what the photos were for, and I said a review on a blog. That seemed to confuse him, and he asked again. I gave him the URL for Sharon’s blog, and sensing that it wasn’t going anywhere, asked him for a card and promised to send him the link.”
Mack’s post on some being afraid of social media got me thinking about how bloggers are viewed in a city like Edmonton when compared with mainstream media. Understandably, a restaurant can be put on the map with a favourable Journal review (Sebastian Lysz said Devlin’s was packed the same night after a positive review), but few restaurants consider the effect of a positive comment in the social media sphere. Perhaps restauranteurs aren’t aware of this relatively new movement, but I think it is their responsibility to find out what other sources of information are out there, and join the conversation.
Earlier this year, restaurant giant Jean-Georges Vongerichten responded on his personal blog to an unfavourable review he received in the New York Times. While some may read his retort as sour grapes, I think his blog is the perfect medium to express his inspiration for the restaurant, and defend some of the choices he made. Of course, while I doubt someone of Vongerichten’s stature would respond in kind to every negative review he may receive in the blogosphere, I think his example proves that some restauranteurs are beginning to understand the potential of the web.
For the record, Mack e-mailed both my review and his social media post to Dean at 100 shortly after they were written…and we haven’t yet heard back. While we didn’t expect to be invited back for a complimentary meal, a cursory acknowledgement of our concerns would have been appreciated.
In food-forward cities like New York, restaurant news doesn’t break in mainstream media. Instead, blogs like Eater and Serious Eats cover restaurant openings and closings, and of course, post timely reviews. In Edmonton, contributors on Connect2Edmonton, Chowhound and Yelp forums keep each other informed on things that are happening around the city. A recent article in the NYT quoted a manager of a San Francisco restaurant that “sponsors” reviews on Yelp as saying, “Feedback is good when you’re in the customer satisfaction business. If you don’t evolve in this marketplace, you go extinct.”
To blog or not to blog?
While I am not arrogant enough to think of my blog as a be all, end all publicity vehicle for restaurants, for those that do not have a web presence, I think that it is reasonable to say that a review, particularly for smaller, independent eateries, can link potential customers with businesses. I can’t tell you how many search hits I receive for new restaurants that I have simply mentioned in passing in my weekly “Food Notes” posts. Some of these establishments do not have websites (and yes, I understand that the day-to-day demands of running a restaurant are not small), but even a skeleton page with a contact number, hours, and a PDF copy of the menu would suffice for most people.
On the issue of fairness, while papers like the NYT have huge budgets for their food sections (and a policy reflective of both fairness and deep pockets in sending reviewers for at least three meals), multiple visits for the average person would be next to impossible – not only would it be time consuming, but incredibly expensive. I will admit to having something of a personal code of ethics when I review restaurants though – I will qualify any pre-determined bias, including a discounted meal; always pay for my own food; and in an effort to remain objective, refrain from writing about chefs and their food after I have met them.
Andree Lau, the Calgary-based author of Are You Gonna Eat That?, also has her own personal philosophy when it comes to what to write. “When I first started blogging,” she said via e-mail, “I wanted to highlight positive experiences. I figured mediocre visits weren’t worth wasting people’s time with, but now that I’ve been blogging for a while, I’m considering adding more write-ups about repeated negative experiences. In general, I don’t think it’s fair to write a negative entry based on one visit.”
For most restaurants, that kind of candid critique would be difficult to obtain – how many people actually fill out comment cards? Cindy Lazarenko, chef and owner of Culina Highlands, welcomes honest feedback, and understands that the typical “Yes, it’s great” response that servers receive when checking on diners in her restaurant isn’t likely an accurate barometer of their experience. “I want feedback,” she says. “It’s the only way you’re going to learn and grow and get better, but not if it’s done in a negative way. The people here – myself and my husband – put everything into this [restaurant] and it’s coming from a good place, so it’s really hard when you get that negative feedback.”
While I can’t guarantee that the blogosphere will be free of biased, cutthroat feedback, my view is that a restaurant should periodically “check in” with what their customers are saying, good or bad. In the event that improvements need to be made, staff could begin a dialogue with patrons for what changes they would like to see: a virtual focus group, to be harnessed free of charge.
Picture this?
For me, blogging and photography go hand in hand. Often, in mainstream media (and even for the paper I contribute to), only one shot – of a dish, the chef, or the interior – is ever published. What I always longed for – and what blogs gave me – was a visual feel for the establishment, even before I ever set foot in the place. Some large publications have, to their credit, recognized this hunger and have developed multimedia components in an effort to provide information alongside visual aids (this is a recent example from the NYT), but such endeavours are few and far between for most publications.
Over the past two years, my personal approach to photography has evolved. There was a time where I indiscriminately used flash and a time that I posted sweeping shots of restaurant interiors filled with fellow diners – without much thought. Now, I carry a small three-inch tripod with me at all times, in order to maximize what light is available in the room, and I refrain from uploading pictures that include other patrons. I have taken interior shots for my own use when blogging about an experience, but only because I’m not the type to take notes during a meal.
One blogger suggested that permission should be acquired prior to taking photos on a restaurant’s private property. On that, I disagree, because such an act is tantamount to announcing one’s presence and intention. While I wouldn’t mind notifying restaurants of my review after the fact, I wouldn’t want staff to potentially modify their service in any way simply because a critique is in order. Liane Faulder agrees, and Ruth Reichl, formerly a NYT restaurant critic, practically made a career out of disguising herself (and wrote a bestselling memoir about her experience), precisely to avoid the circus that would arise out of recognition.
For restaurants like 100 who may have an official policy against personal photography, I would invite them to post it on the door of their establishment. In June, Chef David Chang banned food photography at his high-profile New York eatery Momofuku Ko – so diners are given the choice to either lose their cameras or their coveted reservation.
On the other side, some chefs welcome the publicity and recognition of their work. For example, Sebastian Lysz is personally “flattered” when people want to photograph his food. And when it comes down to dishes, I have to agree with Lau’s assessment: “I don’t ask permission to take shots of my own food, which I consider to be a product that I have paid for and am free to do with what I please.”
As a blogger, it is in my best interest to ensure that restaurants are well-equipped to look for, and respond to reviews. Much like Lazarenko, I welcome feedback. So though I will continue blogging without looking back, I hope that local eateries begin to look forward, and join in on the conversation.
The Cooking Chronicles: Vegetable Tortellini Bowl
Darn, another recipe that was great to eat but I can’t locate on the internet…
On a day when I was feeling under the weather and craving something warm with vegetables, I turned to a trusty Company’s Coming cookbook for Vegetable Tortellini soup. I figured the filled pasta would give the soup that extra filler, and if nothing else, the tricolore tortellini provided some nice color.
Instead of diced tomatoes, I used a can of whole tomatoes, which, by the time we were ready to eat the soup, lent the chicken stock a lovely red hue. Along with the tomatoes, I threw in the recommended carrot, zucchini, bell pepper, and substituted celery for spinach, and the recipe turned out wonderfully. I remember Jane saying that she was in a “soup phase” at one point – if all soups are this easy and tasty to boot, I may be in one soon too.
Vegetable Tortellini Bowl
Veggie Donair World Premiere
After interviewing Eric Ng, the mastermind behind the World Premiere of the Veggie Donair for a Vue article, I was more curious than ever about the event. I bought an advance ticket at Listen Records, and headed for the Hydeaway (10209 100 Ave) on Wednesday evening.
While I’m not sure what the most appropriate venue for a world premiere of a vegetarian food item would be, the very casual, pub-like space of the Hydeaway suited Eric’s “do it yourself” mentality, I thought. Shortly after 7pm (the event’s start time as listed on the tickets), employees were still shifting around furniture and setting up the stage, as attendees began trickling in.
Around 7:30pm, Leif Oleson-Cormack (an old friend of mine from high school), did his best to entertain the hungry crowd, as Eric headed to the kitchen to begin assembling the donairs. Leif’s set was about 20 minutes in length, after which we got up from the table to wait in a line that snaked halfway around the space.
By this point, I realized I should have had something to eat prior to the event, as the wait was painful. For a food-focused event, an hour and a half to get to the “meat”, so to speak, was unacceptable. At the same time, I had to feel for Eric and the rest of his helpers – a peek inside the kitchen saw four busy hands, and the one waitress had trouble delivering orders to a shifting crowd of patrons. A number system would have helped, but it seemed organization wasn’t the evening’s strong point.
As for the donair itself – while I am not the best judge of donairs (I can’t remember the last time I had one), I liked the crispy, toasted pita shell, and the combination of the tomatoes, onions, sauce, and meat replacement. The consensus at our table, however, was that we wished that the gluten/tofu slab had been sliced a little thinner – it was a tad too thick served as it was (and with a chewy texture very similar to some of the vegan dishes I had at Padmanadi). I did attempt to take a few photos, but as our table and the surrounding area had no overhead lights, the pictures turned out much too blurry to post, unfortunately.
Eric said the turnout of just over 60 was perfect, as he ended up running out of supplies. Overall, it was a fun night and an interesting experience – I hope more food item world premieres are in Edmonton’s future!
City of Edmonton’s Planning Academy
Two weeks ago, Mack and I took one of the City of Edmonton’s Planning Academy courses. A series of learning opportunities offered by the city so citizens can be better informed on the subject of planning and development in Edmonton, courses are offered at least once a year on subjects such as land use planning, urban design, and transportation.
I was most interested in the course titled “Getting a Grip on Land Use Planning”, as I was hoping it would answer my questions on why some areas of the city are more pedestrian-friendly than others.
The makeup of students that day was quite diverse – from city employees to design and engineering professionals, to an articling law student and Alberta Employment and Immigration manager at our table, it was nice to see a cross-section of city residents. I did wonder, however, if bursaries were available to the low-income, as while $35 isn’t an unreasonable fee, it might make the course out of reach for some.
The best parts of the course were the concrete examples the two speakers were able to provide based on their experience. And while the material covered didn’t fully answer my questions, I do have a better appreciation for the planning department – what seemed to me before was an absence of thought in planning, but really, quite a bit of work goes into the design of neighbourhoods.
I was also intrigued to find out about some planning regulations in effect – for example, new neighbourhoods must have 10% of land dedicated to park areas, pubs are required to have 1 parking spot per 3.6 square metres of space and downtown (as specified by the Area Redevelopment Plan), developers are mandated for just 1 parking stall per 100 square meters.
The planners of the course tried to incorporate hands-on learning throughout the day, and while well-intentioned for small group discussions, I thought they were a waste of time. Perhaps I have a lack of foresight, but the exercises of designing a secondary garage suite and rezoning of a hospital building were not practical or necessary for a layperson.
I am eyeing the Transportation Elective taking place in the spring – perhaps it will shed some insight on Edmonton’s car culture.
Good Times with the Old Crew
Thanks to Violet’s planning prowess and Doug’s willingness to play perennial host, friends were able to get together to play some Wii and board games (and celebrate Michael’s birthday!).
I didn’t take as many photos as I intended, so I really ended up with one to post. It captures the aftermath of our round of Trivial Pursuit: Totally 80s, where Violet and Jeff reigned with their seemingly random knowledge of obscure musicians, television personalities, and historical events. I will say that I now have a strange desire to watch Strange Brew, and I do think that I will always think of Don Johnson as “the white suit man”.
Care Bear domination
Thanks again for hosting Doug! I’m looking forward to the next gathering where I can bring along Foodie Fight ;).
Culinary Q & A with Lea Alcantara
Occupation: Chief Hired Gun of Lealea Design.
What did you eat today?
Breakfast was two eggs and two pieces of toast. Lunch was a tuna salad sandwich. Dinner is broiled marinated lamb loin chops in red wine, garlic, onion and rosemary, with leftover whole wheat penne and some bottled generic tomato/basil sauce.
What do you never eat?
This is hard because I will almost eat anything. The one thing I will never eat is this Filipino “delicacy” called “balut” — it’s basically aborted duck egg. Seriously. Can I have my eggs unfertilized, please?
What is your personal specialty?
Probably chicken cashew stir fry. So easy. So tasty. 🙂
What is your favorite kitchen item?
My 8″ Global chef knife. Beautiful, light, and very functional.
World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.
It will be a buffet of mostly ethnic items. So I can have a little bit of everything, pause in between to settle, and eat some more. If a gun was pointed at my head and I really only had to have a 3 course meal: calamari to start, lobster and scallop linguine in a spicy rose sauce, and tiramisu.
Where do you eat out most frequently?
Double Greeting Wonton House. Rob (my hubby) and I always order their Wor Wonton, and then one other random item. One of the few places where you feel full and spend less than $20 that isn’t a pho or fast food joint.
What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?
So hard to narrow down, but I will have to say Il Pasticcio is probably the best. Nice ambiance, comfy atmosphere, great service, good looking chefs — we like the fact that the kitchen is open to the public, and the head chef my sisters and I call Chef Handsome. Oh, and the prices are pretty decent.
If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?
I think it would be fun to be part of a Hawaiian luau. First of all, it fits my wish of “buffet of mostly ethnic items” while it’s set in a beautiful beach during sunset outdoors, and lots of happy people. Mm, live pig roasts… and seafood!
Food Notes
- My latest Vue Weekly article was published this week, about a “Veggie Donair World Premiere” taking place at the Hydeaway All Ages Art Space on Wednesday.
- Vue reported on Thursday that Four Rooms in City Centre has closed: “Henry Song, owner/operator of the City Centre establishment, commented to Vue Weekly that he regrets closing on such short notice. He offered no explanation beyond that the timing was right. He regrets any difficulty caused to clientele, musicians and his staff. He has expressed a desire to continue to work in the food and entertainment industry.” What’s up with all of these recent closures?
- Lea told me about a new Thai restaurant on the north side called Stephanie’s Thai and Lao Fusion Cuisine. It was reviewed this week in Vue as well.
- Mack sent me a link to Sassy Cakes, a new home-based cupcake business. They’re also on Twitter.
- All eyes on the maple leaf: Susur Lee’s debut in New York doesn’t make him flinch at all. A NY blogger I read was lucky enough to go to the Gourmet media event alluded to in the article – her thoughts are here.
- Mack downloaded the Urban Spoon app to his iPod Touch last week, and I will admit that it was rather fun to play with (the columns can be flicked like a slot machine, but shaking of the iPod will yield a random result – too cool). I hope they add Edmonton to their list of cities soon!
- Does kids’ cuisine reign supreme? It seems to be the trend, writes Misty Harris.
- Also on the subject of children – I am tempted to describe the 12 year old food critic in an NYT story as “precious”, but something tells me he would bristle at that label.
- In a case of ‘coulda, shoulda, woulda’, had I known Starbucks would wholly change their line of mints – from the tiny, power-packed kind to large, money-grabbing tablets, I would have stocked up on the small boxes (pictured below on the right). While the larger case is sleek, it makes me feel a little like a dealer of some kind every time I slide it open.
New vs. Old Starbucks Peppermints
Culinary Q & A with Sue Robins
Occupation: Freelance writer, owner of Apostrophe S. Mom to three. Wife to one. Volunteer to many.
What did you eat today?
Poached eggs and corned beef hash, grilled gouda, avocado and red onion sandwich on ciabatta, Italian sausage and risotto with butternut squash.
What do you never eat?
Green peppers and pork hocks, ugh.
What is your personal specialty?
Risotto of all shapes and sizes and cajun bread pudding.
What is your favorite kitchen item?
My lemon zester. I heart it.
World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.
A big glass of Nk’Mip’s Meritage wine. My husband’s fusilli with Italian sausage, fennel and red chilis. My daughter Ella’s lemon meringue pie.
Where do you eat out most frequently?
I love Leva for their cappuccinos, pastries, gelati and lunch panino.
What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?
I adore Culina for special night out. It is dark, intimate and very romantic. The service is perfect.
If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?
Ah, this is a cliché, but true – Italy! Specifically, rural Italy, in a region called Abruzzo, on a little olive oil farm called Le Magnolie. The Nonna of the house does the cooking, and it is simple, hearty, fresh and belissimo! I am at her mercy, but hopefully she’d serve a big plate of antipasto, homemade gnocchi nestled perched on fresh tomato sauce and garlic, roast turkey with lemon and rosemary and warm pizzelles with homemade cherry jam.
Truffology 101 at the Edmonton Public Library
The Edmonton Public Library has an ongoing advertising campaign on with the slogan “More than just books”. It’s true – libraries are now the hub for many activities – gaming nights for teens, conversation circles for English as an Additional Language Learners, knitting clubs, photography workshops and movie screenings. Their program listings are available on their website, and in paper form as a seasonal guide that can be picked up at each of the 17 branches in the city.
I first saw a course titled “Truffology 101” in the catalogue last year, and though my interest was piqued, the time didn’t work out. When I saw that they were offering again this fall, I signed up immediately, and dragged my Mum along for the ride.
We headed to Strathcona Library on Saturday afternoon, and after paying our $2 course participation fee (for the materials) on the main floor, headed to the upstairs meeting room. There, Adrian, the friendly manager of the branch welcomed us, and shortly after, introduced her husband, John Canty, who would be leading the workshop. He is a hobby chocolatier, and seems to have taken a few courses here and there to learn about the subject.
Truffology 101 outline
While he wasn’t as energetic as Nina at the chocolate tasting at Kerstin’s, it was obvious that he is passionate about chocolate. The overview and background of chocolate making also wasn’t as detailed as the one I heard at Kerstin’s, but as this session was only an hour in length (with a different objective), that wasn’t unexpected.
After the chocolate introduction (and recommending Scharffen Berger brand bars, available at Shoppers Drug Mart), John reached the demonstration portion of the session, and while John explained the components of a basic ganache recipe, Adrian set about making it on a portable burner. He had adapted the recipe from one he had received from a course at NAIT (my Mum was wondering whether a sans-corn syrup recipe existed, and I did find one on the Times’ website).
Simple Ganache
300g milk chocolate
225g whipping cream
7 1/4 teaspoons unsalted butter
3 1/8 glucose or light corn syrup
1. Finely chop the chocolate and place in a glass mixing bowl.
2. Pour cream into small saucepan and bring to scalding. Remove pan from heat – do not allow cream to boil.
3. Add glucose/corn syrup to the heated cream and mix.
4. Pour cream-glucose mixture over chopped chocolate. Stir to melt the chocolate, adding butter slowly in small increments. If chocolate does not fully melt you may carefully heat the mixture in a microwave – use only low power settings for very brief periods.
5. Once all the butter has been added, and the mixture is smooth and homogenous, cover mixture and refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours.
Adrian passed around the bowl once the homogenous mixture had been attained, to show each of us the consistency the mixture must be. Then, like the magic of cooking shows, they pulled out pre-made, cooled, plastic-wrapped ganache for each of us to roll in the plates of cocoa or coconut on our table.
My Mum making truffles
The truffles were beyond straightforward to make, and would be a great activity for children – with the consistency of playdough, they could be easily rolled into balls and dipped into a variety of garnishes – colored sprinkles, sugars, chopped nuts. Truth be told, the truffles were a tad to sweet for me, but then again, one alone was enough to cure my chocolate craving.
My truffles
A set of colorful truffles would be a great Christmas gift, so to facilitate this thought, John and Adrian are offering another Truffology 101 class at the Riverbend branch on December 6. It will also be repeated in the new year at the Sprucewood and Lois Hole locations. Be sure to call ahead to book a spot. Happy truffle making!