Author: Sharon Yeo

Sharon is an Edmonton-based blogger who has been writing about food since 2006.

Nothing Out of the Ordinary: Hoa An

There seem to be a never-ending stream of restaurants in Chinatown that arise out of nowhere, begging to be tried. Hoa An (9653 107 Avenue) was such a place, and I chose it for a weekday lunch destination.

It turned out Dickson had already been there, but didn’t know it until we were right in front of the restaurant. Next to the popular grocer Lucky 97, it seemed to blend in with the surroundings of the hub, with all traffic in the area seemingly drawn to the always bustling parking lot in front of the store.

At any rate, walking into the restaurant, we were immediately directed by someone to a table along one wall. Hoa An was moderately busy, with more than a handful of parties either already in the midst of their food, or waiting patiently for their orders to arrive. The overwhelmingly pink interior was an interesting color scheme, but overall, I couldn’t complain much about the well-kept dining area.

The menu, which included stir-fried dishes and a variety of noodle and vermicelli bowls, didn’t highlight anything out of the ordinary, though I likely wouldn’t have considered any dishes other than pho that afternoon anyway. I zeroed in on #35, with well-done flank ($7.35), while Dickson opted for the more interesting rare steak, well-done flank, brisket and tripe ($7.35).

In a lightning quick fashion similar to Pho Hoa and Pho Tau Bay, our orders were delivered after a short five minute wait. We both commented that the portion size seemed smaller than those served at other restaurants (notably, Pagolac), and that the broth wasn’t as hot as we would have liked. That said, I’m starting to think that trying to sway me from my current pho favourites would be next to impossible. Even though I would never be able to accurately identify, in a blind taste test, the restaurant origin of a bowl of pho, unless a serving knocks my socks off (in a good way), I doubt any new places I experiment with will replace my love of Pagolac and Hoang Long. The memories in this case of the times and meals I have had at those restaurants ultimately take precedent over the minute quality differences that may be noted in the food.

Pho with well-done flank

Pho with rare steak, well-done flank, brisket and tripe

So though Hoa An is reasonably priced and fast, I hesitate to say I’ll be back often. Hoang Long offers a closer stop from work, and the southside Pagolac a comfortably familiar setting.

Hoa An
9653 107 Avenue
(780) 425-6021

Holiday Indulgence: Unheardof

It was a little amusing to me that I hadn’t heard much about Unheardof (9602 82 Avenue), an upscale restaurant on the southside. The menu stated that it has been around for nearly thirty years, but to me, save for passing it travelling on Whyte Avenue, it may as well have been an empty storefront. I knew, however, after digging around the website that a meal at Unheardof wouldn’t be an inexpensive one, so when Mack told me we would be going there for his company’s Christmas celebration, I was happy that I would be able to give it a try on someone else’s dime.

We snagged a parking spot on the street, and headed inside. The building must have once been a house, and as a converted restaurant, it reminded me a bit of Manor Cafe and Violino. We were greeted by someone immediately, who took us to the second floor dining area. I was a little sad that we wouldn’t be seated on the main floor, as the warmth of the incandescent lights, coupled with lovely wreaths and other decorations made it a festive and comfortable room. Upstairs, though we were offered a table in a more private space shared with just two other parties, lit by an overhead fluorescent light, the room had a cooler feel to it.

Our dining area

When everyone had arrived, we took our time with the menu. Entrees were all priced at a standard $45, while starters and desserts were left without a corresponding price. The menu detailed the restaurant’s new Table d’Hote approach, where additional courses could be added to the base entree price – 2 courses total cost $60, 3 courses $70 and 4 courses $80. Feeling fairly indulgent, we all opted for at least three courses each – an appetizer, main, and dessert.

Mack went straight for the Sea Scallops (seared giant sea scallops seasoned with cumin and coarse salt served on a green lentil ragout with paprika oil and ragout), while I couldn’t resist the sound of Wild Mushroom Risotto (mushroom stock arborio risotto with Lobster and chanterelle mushrooms, fresh thyme, gruyere and mascarpone cheeses, sea beans). For mains, we both selected the Muntok Beef Tenderloin.

Mack’s coworkers were extremely accommodating of our typical dining routine, and very generously let us photograph (and with Greg, even sample) all of their dishes. We have them to thank for the extensive gallery of dishes to follow.

Between the wine and the conversation, the evening flowed smoothly. Service wasn’t notable, but was seamless. The first food item we received were complimentary “tapas”, though I considered it more of an amuse bouche. The pumpkin seed and cheddar pork pate wasn’t to my liking or Mack’s, though Greg quite enjoyed the sample (and Alina’s as well). The grainy, salty paste just reinforced what we had first expressed at Characters after having their foie gras.

Pork pate

Our appetizers arrived in a reasonable amount of time, all portioned so the majority of diners would be able to finish three whole courses. I took a risk with the risotto, particularly because my last experience with the dish at Blink in Calgary left much to be desired, but I’m glad I did. Their version is probably the best I have ever had – cooked to creamy perfection, with a good mushroom-to-rice ratio. I’m sure I could have eaten more, but with that taster size, I would consider coming back again just for the risotto. Mack thought his scallops were all right, but said the ones he had at the Wildflower Grill were better.

Wild Mushroom Risotto

Sea Scallops

After a lovely sorbet palate cleanser, our entrees arrived. The presentations weren’t particularly artful, bit the kitchen did their best to accent dull-colored meats with some vibrant produce. Our sides were hidden underneath the steak, a mix of roasted onions, sauteed mushrooms, and a crunchy potato pancake. The tenderloin had been crusted with peppercorns, adding a bit of spice to an otherwise fairly conventional dish. It is worth mentioning that both of our steaks were perfectly cooked – Mack’s was a touch more done as he had requested medium versus my medium rare.

Muntok Beef Tenderloin

Game Trio

Seafood Aqua Pazza

Duck and Quail

Herbed Loin and Lamb

Dessert for me was their Creme Brulee, which the server said was flavoured with cinnamon and rum that day. Mack opted for the Egg Nog Pie (what else?), while Mike ordered the lone White Chocolate Cranberry Cheesecake and Alina the only Turtle Tart. While I couldn’t taste the supposed flavour in my creme brulee, the fruit garnish and hidden inside the custard added some nice freshness to the dish. Mack actually didn’t enjoy the pie – the pecan crust was overpowering, and the filling didn’t live up to the name at all.

Creme Brulee

Egg Nog Pie

White Chocolate Cranberry Cheesecake

Turtle Tart

Thanks again to Questionmark for dinner! The only downside to being spoiled, however, is that any subsequent meals there will seem doubly expensive. So while Unheardof left a good first impression, I’m not sure it is worth the price of admission – I’d opt for the Red Ox Inn instead, which offers food of similar quality at a much lower rate.

Unheardof
9602 82 Avenue
(780) 432-0480
Dinner only, Tuesday to Sunday from 5:3opm

Food Notes

  • Mark your calendars: Fork Fest (Original Fare‘s version of “dine out week”) is scheduled for January 19-22 and 26-29.
  • The Journal reported that Le Table de Renoir is temporarily closed because the owner is going through a divorce. It should be back up and running in January.
  • Also in the Journal, a positive review for Bistecca, the new Sorrentino-run steakhouse.
  • The 12-year old “food critic” from New York I mentioned two weeks ago in my Food Notes will be even more famous – Paramount Pictures has acquired the rights to his story to be adapted into a movie or a television show.
  • How’s this for the intersection of food and politics: December 3 was supposed to be declared “Yelp Day” in San Francisco, in honor of the popular website, but once the Mayor’s office got wind that negative reviews of businesses that supported Proposition 8 had been taken down, the proclamation was pulled.
  • I was on the look out for this year’s incarnation of Starbucks’ “It’s Red Again” campaign, but it turns out the coffee company has decided to go the charitable route this year, partnering with the now well-known (RED) campaign: “For every purchase of a (STARBUCKS)RED EXCLUSIVE beverage – Peppermint Mocha Twist, Gingersnap Latte and Espresso Truffle – at participating stores in the U.S. and Canada, Starbucks will contribute five cents to the Global Fund to invest in AIDS programs in Africa.”

 

The (Starbucks)RED sleeve

  • May and I had a bite to eat at Ga Ya, prior to a show at the Timms Centre last week. I had been meaning to return at some point to try something other than the Bee Bim Bob (which I wrote about before), and the Chicken Teriyaki ($10.95) hit the spot. The meat was nicely flavoured with a house marinade sauce, and there was a fairly generous amount included.

 

Chicken Teriyaki

  • Needing a fast dinner option in South Common before checking out the new Future Shop, Mack and I headed to Ikea, past all of the tempting housewares and seasonal items and up to the cafeteria. I’ve written about my love for their cheap food before, but I thought it was worth noting that their quiche is pretty darn good as well. Served with a bowl of soup (or salad), it’s a meal that won’t break the bank at $4.99.

 

Vegetable Quiche with Mushroom Soup (orange juice extra)

Volunteering with Santas Anonymous

Mack, always up for informal meet-ups with local Twitter-users, was all for an informal Tweetup at the Santas Anonymous warehouse tonight, and I was more than happy to pitch in myself.

We headed to the warehouse on the west end of the city, and after filling in a quick one-page application form, were led to the bagging room. My family and I have delivered presents for Santas Anonymous before, so the mounds of presents encased in garbage bags were a familiar sight to me, but this was my first time participating at an earlier stage.

 

Bagging room

 

Tags, divided into areas of the city

We were shown the bagging process – how to identify the number and ages of the children in the household, and how to properly secure the address tag to the bag – before being set loose. With holiday music playing in the background, it wasn’t a difficult or laborious task at all. The four of us in total who had shown up managed to get through quite a few tags, but as I remarked to Mack at the end of the night – we really could have just kept going. Between the “wrapping bees” outside, and knowing that the charity is still collecting toys, it is amazing to me that they will ever be ready for delivery day. The logistical challenges of collecting, sorting, wrapping and delivering thousands of toys just boggle my mind – but bravo to the organizers for pulling it off every year.

 

Mack and Diane hard at work

I think my family and I will be delivering presents again this year – after seeing a bit of what goes on behind the scenes, I’m even more excited to do so. If you want to join in on spreading Christmas cheer, check out the details on the Santas Anonymous website.

2008 Butterdome Craft Sale

After the great experience I had at the Holiday Stop and Shop a few weeks ago, I was looking forward to checking out the 18th annual Butterdome Craft Sale for the first time. Funny how I never thought of stopping by the event during my numerous university years, but no time like the present to rectify past omissions, right?

Mack and I should have thought ahead and planned to take the bus, but it didn’t work out that way this afternoon, and we ended up parking in the zoo on campus. At a flat rate of $3.75, it wasn’t expensive, but it still added to the overall “admission plus” charges that day.

The Craft Sale charges $5 admission for adults, providing access to 240 vendors. We saw a ton of people coming out of the building, arms laden with bags and random knick-knacks purchased in anticipation of the holidays, and we were hoping to get some shopping done in a similar fashion.

 

Butterdome floor

I think what surprised me the most was the the artisans came from all over Canada – I saw quite a few vendors from Vancouver, Winnipeg and Toronto. And while we did see some very unique items (including Jim Nodge’s iron sculptures, and Tin House Design’s framed squares of reclaimed tin ceiling panels), Mack and I for the most part were disinterested shoppers. It took us just over an hour to walk through the entire floor, and we even took time to pause at the occasional vendor. All we had to show for our visit were two t-shirts Mack bought from Grimm (his favourite says “shouldn’t you be on a ledge somewhere”).

The Butterdome will hold its third Spring Craft Sale from May 1 – 3, but after this experience, I think I will stick with the smaller fairs, like Stop and Shop and the Royal Bison Craft & Art Fair. Though I’m glad the Butterdome helps to push handmade crafts into the “mainstream”, the overall feel is too “corporate” and not as personal as the smaller, grassroots fairs, in my opinion.

Bright Nights at the Legislature

After dinner at the Wildflower Grill, Mack and I grabbed a hot drink at the Starbucks next to the restaurant and walked to the Legislature grounds. Earlier in the day, the official light-up had taken place, but we were more than happy simply to explore the lights without the fanfare.

 

Approaching the Legislature

I have been to the grounds once before, but walking underneath the multicolored lights, with holiday songs piping in the background, will never get old. The ice sculptures, lit from behind, were out for display already as well.

 

Ice sculptures

 

Mack with Santa

The lights are typically on until at least the first week in January, both in the morning, from 6:30-8:30am and in the evenings from 5-11pm.

It was a pretty chilly night, so we were more than happy that the annex building was open so we could warm up a bit before heading outside again. Inside, we found a Lego-version of the Legislature building, sponsored by the Northern Alberta Lego Users Group. On a related note, watch for the Art of the Brick at the Telus World of Science, an exhibit that opens on December 20 that will feature a variety of life-size pieces built by a Lego artist.

 

Legislature in miniature

Make sure to take some time this holiday season to explore some of the great things to do in the city!

Worth the Splurge: Wildflower Grill

I had mentioned my exquisite meal at Wildflower Grill (10009 107 Street) so many times to Mack in the last year that he was eager to give it a whirl of his own at the next opportunity. We finally made time on Thursday to go and see if the standard of excellence outlived the new car smell.

 

Wildflower interior

The restaurant served just four other tables for the duration of our visit, so for that reason (and the basic principle of welcoming), we found it surprising that the hostess greeted us with an abrupt “Do you have a reservation?” as soon as we walked through the door. Granted, we could have simply surprised her, but a “How are you?” would have been an acceptable preface.

At any rate, we were shown to a table by the window, one of my favourite places to sit in any restaurant. Our server promptly came to take our drink order, and throughout the evening, was attentive without being overbearing – I was happy to see that their service had not declined in quality since my inaugural visit.

The menu appeared to be unchanged, which was fine with me, as I had intentions to sample a dish free of fruits de mer this time around. To start, Mack couldn’t resist the temptation of Coconut Buttered Tiger Prawns ($15), and decided to continue on the seafood theme with Pan-Roasted Sockeye Salmon Medallions ($31) as his entrée. I was decidedly in the land corner that day, and the Herb-Crusted Venison Medallions ($38) struck my fancy.

As expected, our server teased our palate with an amuse bouche, of stewed figs this time. I didn’t care much for the cream cheese finish, but I still adored the complimentary sample from the chef. Next was the included treat I was looking most forward to – brioche bread served with two kinds of butter. It was just as good as I remembered – warm from the oven, crisp on the outside, but soft and chewy on the inside. Heavenly.

 

Amuse bouche

Brioche bread service

We weren’t halfway through our bread, however, when our appetizer appeared. Mack was immediately distracted by the sight of shrimp and scallops, and I was less than interested. The two accompanying sauces provided a color pop to the dish, but were also quite tasty – Mack preferred the lime green chili sauce, while I liked the bite of the red chili sauce. The potato crown which encased the seafood tower was a nice edible addition as well.

Coconut Buttered Tiger Prawns

Anticipating entrees that would arrive prior to completing our appetizer, we finished the plate in no time. To our relief, there was a lengthened pause from the kitchen, and we waited comfortably, sipping our drinks and enjoyed the relaxed ambiance of a quiet dining room.

Our entrees were a canvas to behold. A tiny ceramic pot (adhered to the square plate with the help of mashed potato) supplied a miniature dish within a dish, while the rest of the sides painted a lovely array of colors, accenting the bold, deep pink of the venison medallions which were drenched in a ruby sauce. Mack’s salmon medallions were also heightened visually with beautiful vegetables, though the fish and shrimp were already so vibrant in color that they didn’t need much in the way of accents.

This was my first experience with game, and I wasn’t sure what to expect. Though the texture was different than beef or bison, I’m not sure I would be able to identify the meat as “game” in a blind taste test. The crust and the huckleberry compote were great accompaniments, so I have no complaints on preparation or presentation, but as the dish was served with an oxtail ragout, it was difficult not to prefer the softened shards of braised meat served in a lovely broth. Mack’s lobster and crab-stuffed salmon medallions were the closest he’d probably get to recreating Homer Simpson’s “lobster stuffed with tacos” request, and he enjoyed them thoroughly. He didn’t really think there was a need for the butternut squash gnocchi, however, which didn’t seem to relate to the other parts of the dish.

Herb-crusted Venison Medallions

Pan-Roasted Sockeye Salmon Medallions

We were both stuffed by the end of our mains, and opted not to order dessert. Between the amuse bouche, bread course, and complimentary chocolate they provided prior to handing us our bill, we felt that the diner’s experience was a top priority for staff. It was definitely not an inexpensive meal, but for a special occasion, the Wildflower Grill is worth the splurge.

Wildflower Grill
10009 107 Street
(780) 990-1938
Lunch: Monday – Friday 11am-2pm; Dinner: Sunday – Thursday 5-9pm, Friday – Saturday 5-10pm; Brunch: Sunday 11am-2pm
Appetizers $10-22, Entrees $26-49, Desserts $12

Studio Theatre: “Without You”

May and I met up on a chilly Tuesday to watch Without You at the Timms Centre, the latest Studio Theatre production. From the website:

“Without You is a witty and charming, contemporary search for The One – a search we all can recognize. Gabriella and Scott are in love…they’re pretty sure anyway. She’s a musician pursuing a dream; he’s an academic in pursuit of a career. The wedding is in six months. Somewhere between chicken or beef, colour schemes and groomsmen, Scott develops a secret and Gabby makes plans to leave. While he is holding on with everything he has, she is letting go.”

This play hinges on two things – the audience’s belief in “The One” (or True Love), and the likability of the characters (tied closely with how well the audience can relate to them). For the most part, I didn’t buy the True Love premise of Gabriella’s ball-rolling psychic reading, and worse, I couldn’t stand Gabriella’s character. Throughout most of the play, I found myself rooting against her, and wondering why Scott stayed with her at all – for someone as fiery as she was supposed to be, she lacked a core sense of self (which, I suppose is what the second half dealt with).

Due to the frustration I felt on Scott’s behalf, my favourite part of the play was the climactic, relationship-ending fight. It was satisfying, and in my eyes, something Gabriella entirely deserved. Both actors (Samantha Duff and Matthew McKinney) held their own in that scene, and Duff even redeemed herself from some more uneven work earlier in the production. I will also give Duff credit for a solo acoustic performance where it seemed she was pushing her artistic boundaries.

Though I was expecting more from the script, playwright Nicole Moeller did do a great job utilizing her supporting characters for comedic relief. So much so that chameleons Blythe Haynes and Vincent Forcier stole the show.

I also loved the simple set – I’m a sucker for versatile/multi-function ottomans – but the window-panelled centrepiece, which extended the horizontal length of the stage, was a beautiful, visual reminder of the limitlessness of young life.

Without You runs until December 6.

December in Edmonton is for the Holidays

  • Choirs are definitely a part of the season – the Legislature hosts singing troops both at noon hours and in the evenings from December 1-23, even serving hot chocolate to listeners! Choir schedule here.
  • The City Hall also hosts elementary school choirs at noon hour, in a series called Holiday Magic, but with a shorter run, from December 1-5.
  • If you missed the holiday light-up in Churchill Square last month, don’t despair – you can check out the light-up at the Legislature grounds on December 4, which host their own display of Bright Nights figures.
  • Every Thursday evening in December, join an expert in science, ethics, philosophy or religion on a tour through the Imagining Science exhibit at the Art Gallery of Alberta.
  • Toted as “Western Canada’s Best Craft Sale”, the annual Butterdome Craft Sale takes place December 4-7.
  • Looking to buy a poinsetta for a festive addition to your home? The Muttart Conservatory is open December 6-7 & 13-14 for pots and some hands-on workshops. Print this newsletter for 20% off.
  • The Market at Callingwood is hosting hay rides with Santa Claus on December 6, 13 & 20.
  • Just in time for the cold weather, the annual Jingle On!, Downtown Edmonton’s Indoor Santa Claus Parade will happen on December 7.
  • University of Alberta Alumni are invited to a Holiday Shindig at Latitude 53 on December 11. RSVP details here.
  • Savoy’s (10401 Whyte Avenue) Sip and Splurge, an alternative craft shopping event, is taking place on December 11 from 5-10pm. Bring a donation for the Food Bank for admission.
  • The official light-up for Candy Cane Lane is set for December 12, but the displays will be lit throughout the month. Remember your donation to the Food Bank if you’re planning a visit!
  • Join the ETS for a Christmas Lights Tour from December 15-21. It seems some times have already sold out.
  • The Winspear Centre’s annual fundraiser for the Christmas Bureau is taking place on December 19. Bring a donation and join 16 choirs for a Christmas Carol Sing-along.
  • Hopefully the weather is conducive to outdoor fireworks viewing on December 31, but regardless of the temperature, you can bet Churchill Square will be hopping with those anxious for it to be 2009! Check the Edmonton Downtown website closer to the date for details.

Refined for Expansion: Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria

With the number of restaurants I have yet to try in Edmonton, it’s a wonder I ever make it back to the establishments that I think are deserving of a return visit. So it sometimes helps to have a sweetener. In Famoso’s case, it was in the form of a $50 certificate I bid for in an online auction. Having paid just $32 for the certificate, I thought it was quite the steal.

After a long day at work, Mack and I took the bus to Famoso (11750 Jasper Avenue), and on the way back, intended on walking off the glut of calories we would consume over the course of the evening. We walked in, and were both taken by how busy it was on a random weekday – there was just one table remaining, which we snagged immediately.

While not much had physically changed inside the restaurant, the vibe and the ambiance showcased a more refined Famoso ready to woo patrons from a higher age and income bracket. Gone were the college-esque instructional photos demonstrating how to fold and eat their thin-crust pizzas, as were the deli-style microphone announcements for order pickups. In their place were sleek, professionally photographed shots of sophisticated women enjoying a meal, and table service provided by two buspersons. Famoso had also added a reserve wine list to their menu, inviting patrons to linger and stay on to finish an accompanying bottle of wine with their pizza – a shift from our early comparison to an eat-and-go sandwich joint. Wednesdays now saw a weekly wine tasting event from 6-8:30pm, and the past few months have blossomed with a promotion they call “Famoso’s next Top Chef”. Referencing the popular reality television show, customers can submit their idea for a Neopolitan-style pizza for a chance to have their creation served as the pizza of the month at the restaurant.

The cheery and energetic staff person who took our order said that business has been swift for about a year – probably just picking up prior to our last visit. She was exceptionally helpful and enthusiastic about her work, and was someone Famoso should definitely reward – servers like her are an asset to an organization. At any rate, we ordered (at the counter – that much hadn’t changed), deciding upon the Margherita Pizza, with cherry tomatoes ($11.50) and the Sweet BBQ Chicken ($14), a pizza with a smoked BBQ sauce, roasted chicken, gouda, tomatoes, red onion and cilantro.

We sat down (by this time, a booth had opened up, meaning that there would be at least some light cast on our table), and a few minutes later, our pizzas were brought directly to us. After tasting a slice of Mack’s pizza, I realized I should have probably be more adventurous and chosen something a little off the beaten path. I loved the smoky, tangy sauce, which reminded me very much of the base used on Panago’s Tropical Hawaiian pizza. The Margherita wasn’t bad though – between the chewy, soft dough, and the lovely melted circles of fresh mozzarella, I was definitely enjoying my second Famoso experience.

Margherita Pizza

Sweet BBQ Chicken

Though we were both pretty stuffed from our individual pizzas, I pressed on and ordered a Nutella Pizza ($7). The chocolate calzone-like dessert was the real reason behind my second trip, as it sounded intriguing when I saw it on the menu the first time around. After ordering it at the counter, we sat back and waited. When the plate was delivered, a table nearby looked on with jealous eyes – the prepared calzone had been cut up into easy-to-eat slices, drizzled with chocolate sauce, and finished with whipped cream. The combination of warm, chewy dough and nutella was a good one, but by the time we had each consumed a few slices, we were wishing for an additional accent ingredient like bananas or strawberries. The platter was definitely meant to be shared by more than just two.

Nutella Pizza

My first visit to Famoso led me to believe that it was aligned with producing pizza for the fast food market, but after my most recent experience, I’d recommend it for a casual business lunch, a date, or a place to catch up with friends. I credit the owners with developing the brand into one I can see continually expanding in the Edmonton restaurant scene.

Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria
11750 Jasper Avenue (another location opening in Terwilligar at 142 Street & 23 Avenue in January)
(780) 732-0700
Appetizers $5-12, Entrees $10-14, Desserts $1.50-7