Food Notes

  • Turns out D’Lish on 124th Street is another meal-assembly business, along the lines of the south side’s Passionate Plate. It opens some time this month.
  • City Palate reports that the upcoming Sabzy Cafe (which will occupy the old Sapphire Lounge space on Whyte) will be a Mediterranean/Turkish spot, and also mentioned the new Sabor Divino (109-10220 103 Street NW, 780-757-1114) to watch for on the Boardwalk.
  • Also from City PalateKerstin’s new Chocophilia flavour is Cardamom Mint. I’ll need to get out to the store some time soon to give it a try.
  • Hanne Lynch wrote about her experience at a NAIT Culinary Skills course that I’ve been considering for a while – Kitchen Skills I – The Art of Garde Manger & Knife Skills. Her husband blogged about their experience here.
  • It’s funny how excited I get about potato chips, but it’s undeniable: President’s Choice has added two new flavours to their premium line of chips – Spicy Piri Piri and Tandoori Chicken. I have no doubt the former will be too hot for my palate, but I was happy with my initial sampling of the latter.
  • Instead of the 100 Mile Diet, how about the $1 a day diet? A New York Times article about the subject in an economic downturn.
  • Also from the Times, a great primer article on Yelp, a rising star in the food subset of social media. I’ve been spending more time on Chowhound as of late, but I started browsing Yelp, and it looks like an interesting community. I’ll be poking around a bit more.
  • I normally purchase the cheapest cupcake liners I can find, but should a special occasion arise, I wouldn’t mind considering these absolutely gorgeous paper Filigree Cupcake Wrappers.
  • Employees at my organization were treated to a fundraising “Ethnic Lunch” this past week. For just $10, we were treated to a buffet of Indian and African dishes, including Daal and Curried Cabbage. Delish!

 

My plate

  • Megan bought me Foodie Fight, a trivia game that asks questions on everything food-related. We’ve already played it twice, and I’m happy to say I’ve been on the winning side each time. Thanks Megan!

 

Foodie Fight (the board on the left belongs to Gord and Andrea, while the one on the right belongs to Mack and I)

Better Luck Next Time: Marco’s Famous

For a quick food stop prior to a Revolutionary Speakers’ Series lecture by Sue Johanson (of Sunday Night Sex Show fame), we opted to try Marco’s Famous in the Students’ Union Building on campus (8900 114 Street). We always walk by the “flagship” Whyte location with intentions to stop, but timing has never worked out.

On this day, the line at SUB merchants was clearly favouring the new Taco Time (which replaced Funky Pickle), but there were still a few customers hovered around the Marco’s order counter. It didn’t take me long to decide on a Cheeseburger ($5.50), while Mack decided to taste the Donair ($6.50). We topped off our dinner with an order of large fries ($4.00).

Our order was complete in just a few minutes, and we quickly found a seat to chow down as we watched the line to the Myer Horowitz grow. My 6oz. burger looked pretty standard – the patty topped with condiments, onions and a pickle. But when I bit into it, it started oozing ketchup – so much so that the ketchup began leaking from the top of the bun. And at $5.50, I would have preferred a chargrilled Harvey’s burger. Mack found his donair under a similar sauce-siege – it was messy and thus difficult to eat. The fries were also a disappointment – bland and under-seasoned, we would have welcomed salt or adornment of any kind.

Cheeseburger

Remnants of Mack’s donair

Fries

Though we are willing to give Marco’s another try (and not judge all outlets by our experience at this one), they will definitely have to step up to the plate next time.

Marco’s Famous
8900 114 Street
(780) 437-8644

Hearty and Unpretentious Fare: Spago

To mark the sad occasion of my 2008 Entertainment Book expiring, we had dinner at Spago (12433 97 Street NW) to utilize one last coupon.

I have been quite curious about the Portuguese restaurant – from what I could gather on the web, it has been around for a while, and is frequented by a series of regulars.

While the restaurant wasn’t at capacity on the Saturday evening that we visited, we were told by the hostess that business was picking up as the holiday season approached. The open room was conducive to the feeling of being in a large, welcoming kitchen accented with rustic wooden beams and large curtains that could be utilized as privacy denominators. The space looked like it hadn’t been touched since the eighties, with the telling stained-glass lamps above the bar and the buffet reminding me of Bonanza and many meals of my childhood, but at the same time, I felt at home in the room.

We were seated at a back corner booth, which, while tucked away for a sense of privacy, may have made it difficult for our server to know we were there. Thankfully for Mack, our wait was made easier with the open-access wifi he was able to connect to (like Oodle Noodle, the unintended benefit of being situated in a residential area). When our waitress finally greeted us for the first time, she apologized, and after that, steadily made up for our initial misgivings.

Admitting my own ignorance for Portuguese fare, I wouldn’t have been able to discern the authenticity of any dish, but the Pan-Seared Halibut ($23) grabbed my attention. Mack opted for the Paella ($23), hoping it would duplicate some of the flavours of Spain, where he first had the dish. I appreciated the upfront nature of the menu, which specified which dishes were not eligible for the coupon discount.

The kitchen was on the ball, as we didn’t have to wait long at all for our food. Steaming plates of were delivered to us, with Mack’s dish being a little more visually appealing than mine. The Mediterranean rub used on my 8oz. halibut was great – just enough kick to flavour but not overwhelm the fish, while the roasted garlic and tomato confit was a sweet accompaniment. Mack thoroughly enjoyed his paella, and the balanced amount of seafood and then some included (mussels, clams, prawns, shrimp, calamari, scallops, chicken chourico and pork), though he wished it didn’t cool down so fast – the rice didn’t quite taste the same cool as it did piping hot.

Pan-Seared Halibut

Paella

I’m really glad Spago decided to advertise in the Entertainment Book; we likely would have never wandered in on our own accord to find a venue great for families offering hearty and unpretentious fare.

Spago
12433 97 Street NW
(780) 479-9328
Monday – Thursday 11am-10pm, Friday 11am-midnight, Saturday, 4pm-midnight, Sunday, 11am-9pm
Appetizers $6-12, Entrees $16-50, Desserts $4.25-8

Culinary Q & A with Bruce Clarke

bruceclarke Occupation: Photographer/Owner of Moments in Digital Ltd.  and Product Manager at Britec Computer Systems

What did you eat today?

Breaded chicken cutlets stuffed with turkey breast and mozzarella cheese, rice, & corn

What do you never eat?

Pickles, Olives and raw Tomatoes. Not sure if it’s a texture thing or just the taste I don’t like.

What is your personal specialty?

I love cooking with garlic but I’m known for my Spinach Dip

What is your favorite kitchen item?

While technically not found in the kitchen, I do consider the BBQ my favorite cooking item.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Bacon wrapped filet mignon with sautéed mushrooms, garlic mashed potatoes, and fresh corn on the cob. Carmel cheesecake for desert.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

For a quick lunch on the go I prefer Subway – it feels somehow like I’m eating healthier. For a night out, we go to the Mikado a lot for Japanese.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

That is a toss up between Bua Thai downtown, The Mikado downtown, New Asian Village, and OPM on the southside. We have several favourites depending upon what we are in the mood for.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

Green curry chicken in Thailand or Hakata style ramen in Fukuoka Japan.

More Than Just Cocktails: Devlin’s

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

Edmonton’s third tweetup, an event for local Twitter users to get together in person, was held on Thursday evening. The tweetups aren’t terribly hard to organize, all I need to do is pick a date, time and location. I asked Sharon to help me choose the venue this time, and she suggested Devlin’s Cocktail Lounge (10507 82 Avenue). I had enjoyed our visit in August, and agreed that it would be a good choice. I was keen to try the new fall menu that Sharon had written about in her Vue Weekly article. I called a couple of weeks in advance to ensure they could accommodate a group of 15 to 30 people, and they assured me that wouldn’t be a problem. A few days before the event, they called me back to confirm, which I thought was a nice touch.

When I arrived at the restaurant just before 6pm, I found it locked. After a moment of panic, I peered through the window and caught the attention of Executive Chef Sebastian Lysz who came to unlock the door for me. Fortunately, that was the only hiccup of the evening! My fellow Twitterers started streaming in, and soon we filled up the entire right side of the restaurant. We had around 25 people come and go by the time the evening was finished, and although not everyone ordered food, Sebastian was kept sufficiently busy in the kitchen.

Mack & Sharon
Mack & Sharon, photo courtesy Bruce Clarke

I was occupied chatting with people, so I was more than happy to let Sharon order for me. The first dish that arrived was the Wild Mushroom & Chicken flatbread ($9). Though it didn’t look incredibly appetizing being almost completely devoid of color, it tasted very good. The chicken (from a local producer in Ardrossan) was moist and the bread itself was nicely warm and chewy. I found the mushrooms flavorful, but not overpowering.

Flat bread

The second dish we ordered was also the one I was most looking forward to: the Surf & Turf ($15). Reminiscent of the sliders in its presentation, the dish was definitely easy on the eyes. Unfortunately the portion size was also similar to the sliders, and I found myself wanting more when the plate was empty. The tri-tip steak from Spring Creek Ranch was absolutely delicious, and I enjoyed the roasted potatoes too (though Sharon didn’t). We both agreed that the prawns were fairly average.

Surf and Turf

Usually we’re too full after dinner to have dessert, but that wasn’t a problem thanks to the small size of the dishes at Devlin’s. We decided to give the Dessert Sampler ($15) a try, as it sounded more interesting than the Creme Brulee. Though I couldn’t have the Peanut Butter Bombe (due to my mild peanut allergy), I was able to try the other items. I liked the warm Fruit Crumble in an over-sized shot glass, but my favorite was easily the Bacardi Rum Pumpkin Pie. I love both rum and pumpkin pie, so it was a match made in heaven for me! The Chai Voyant Nitro Ice Cream (with “nutella” powder) was interesting, but it didn’t evoke the familiar flavor of chai.

Dessert Platter

We received great service all night, and everyone seemed to enjoy the food and ambience. A number of people remarked that they were pleasantly surprised with the lounge, and said they’d probably be back. Devlin’s is not the place to go if you’re starving (or feeling the pinch in your wallet), but if all you’re looking for is something tasty to go along with conversation, I can safely say it’s a great choice for small and large groups alike.

The key thing to know about Twitter is that entries are restricted to 140 characters. With that in mind, here’s my mini-review of Devlin’s:

More than just a cocktail lounge, Devlin’s has unique, tasty food and adds something special to Whyte Avenue. Just don’t arrive too hungry!

Devlin’s Cocktail Lounge
10507 82 Avenue
(780) 437-7489

Polished but Pricey: Origin India

After visiting the new Old Strathcona office of Lift Interactive (where we won the cutest his and hers t-shirts), Mack and I walked over to Origin India (10511 82 Avenue), the new upscale Maurya Palace outpost. I originally reported about the “coming soon” status of Origin India back in April, and seven months later, it finally opened, apparently because they had to get up to code.

At any rate, we walked past the taped-up paper menu outside, through the doors, and were immediately transported into a world away from the hustle and bustle of Whyte. To the right of the entrance was what looked like a take-out counter, but for the moment was sparkling new and unused. We walked down a few stairs into a dimly lit room and joined the three other parties already seated.

Dominated by brown and reds, the space was warm but chic. Dark leather banquets lined both walls, and above the seats was a wooden, compartmentalized wine shelf that spanned the same length. The buffet section and bar was situated at the back of the room, and without a divide of any kind, the room felt open and welcoming. Knowing that the former occupant of this space was a dollar store, I really have to commend the owners for the absolute transformation they have overseen – I can see how additional construction time would have been necessary.

Interior

At the beginning of our visit, the music veered towards the annoying tinkering favoured at Khazana, but thankfully by the end of the night, had switched to an upbeat, Bollywood techno that in my opinion suited the space and the location better.

We were told the buffet was available, but were also provided with menus in case we decided to go the a la carte route. At $19.95 per person, the buffet wasn’t cheap, but we figured it was the best way to sample this new establishment’s fare.

The diamond-shaped plates were an interesting choice, and to some extent, the fact that there was a wide border around it made it easier to grip while we travelled the buffet line. I was disappointed to find, however, that there were only eight hot entrees (plus rice, salad and dessert) to choose from. Along with quality, I figured $20 should also buy variety.

Buffet line-up

We piled our plates high with a sample of everything, and returned to our table where a basket of fresh naan was waiting. The naan was more crisp and not as “doughy” as others I have tried, but the made-to-order factor was a real plus. My favourite dish was the lamb curry – tender, flavourful  and just spicy enough, it was a departure from my usual butter chicken preference. Mack, however, enjoyed his serving of butter chicken, though his only complaint was his need to cut the chicken into more manageable, one-bite sizes (he should have also asked for a shovel in place of a fork, heh).


Our plates (they were almost identical)

The service was fabulous throughout – our waiter checked in with us just often enough to make us feel taken care of without intruding. While I am not sure I will be back (at least not for the pricey buffet), along with Devlin’s next door, I really am starting to see the shift in Old Strathcona businesses from those who target the partying set to those that primarily serve working professionals.

Origin India
10511 82 Avenue
(780) 436-0558
Sunday to Thursday 11:30am-11pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30am-2am

Lunch Time Pressure: Viphalay

I’d heard much ado about Viphalay (10724 95 Street NW), from a friend, a newspaper and a chef. Dickson and I agreed on this new-ish Thai and Laotian restaurant for a lunch meet-up last week so I was finally able to experience it firsthand.

With bars on the windows, I really didn’t feel welcome approaching the eatery. Next to a school, with a tiny parking lot shared with a handful of other businesses, the location left much to be desired. But walking into the space, I was immersed in a much different feeling. The interior was modern and elegant – red walls accented the bar at the rear of the restaurant; the inset ceiling, lined with bold red and black paint, brought an unexpected jolt of vibrancy to the mostly white dining area; and lastly, the delicate spotlights that shone on the periphery of the room created a subtle but classy mood.

Interior

The restaurant was less than half full when we walked in just after 12:30pm. We were asked if we had a reservation, and when we responded that we didn’t, were promptly seated anyway at a table along one wall. The place setting included a wine glass, which seemed unnecessarily fancy, but then again, so long as the drinking vessel is clean, I shouldn’t complain.

We took some time to peruse the menu, and despite being momentarily tempted to order the lunch special (which seemed the most economical way to sample their fare), I ended up with my benchmark dish of Pad Thai ($12.99). Dickson opted for the Tamarind Chicken ($11.99) and a side of coconut rice ($2.99/bowl).

I would gather that for most on a noon hour jaunt, time is of the essence. Of course, not choosing a “15 minute guaranteed express lunch” from Kelsey’s or the like means that I was, on some level, making a conscious choice to gamble with an unknown time factor. At the same time, as the restaurant was seated with half of its maximum capacity, Dickson and I expected some expediency with our meal.

It took a good thirty-five minutes to deliver our food, leaving us with about fifteen minutes to eat. I want to press that our waitress was great throughout our meal – attentive and polite to the point of pushing formal (presenting our bill with two hands and a bowed head made me a little uncomfortable), but she couldn’t alleviate the time stress we felt because of the slow kitchen.

As for the food – we thought it was average. The pad thai was more sweet than spicy, and the number of shrimp included were a paltry three – I would choose the same dish at Bua Thai or Syphay any day. Dickson’s tamarind chicken was all right, but with a flavour that was mildly sweet but not wholly distinct, neither of us would recommend it as a standout entrée.

Pad Thai

Tamarind Chicken

I may visit Viphalay again, perhaps for supper or for a weekend lunch date, but I surely won’t be back when an acute awareness of time will impede my enjoyment of the meal.

Viphalay
10724 95 Street NW
(780) 423-3213
Tuesday – Sunday, lunch 11am-2pm, dinner 5-9pm, closed Mondays

An Old Favourite: Urban Diner

After opening the fridge and exploring the pantry in Mack’s apartment, I realized we wouldn’t be able to put together a coherent meal beyond Kraft Dinner. We opted instead for a late lunch at the nearby Urban Diner (12427 102 Avenue). I’ve written positively about their brunch and their dinner selections before, but it has been a while since either of us had been to the restaurant.

Though it was cloudy outside, there was still enough natural light floating in to make the space bright and conducive to the mood generated by the groovy 70s music being played. We looked through our options, and both decided on sandwiches – Mack the Monte Cristo (three layers, egg-dipped, turkey, ham, swiss) and I the Club (roasted turkey, bacon, tomatoes, cranberry thyme chutney, roasted garlic aioli and sharp cheddar), both priced at $11.95. Mack opted for fries on the side while the weather made soup the natural selection for me.

Mack with their house-brewed iced tea

Our plates took a bit of time to arrive, but it was well worth the wait. The split pea and ham soup was just what I was looking for – warm and hearty, it satisfied my soft spot for lentils. My club sandwich was visually stunning, a spectrum of colours that tasted just as good as it looked. I loved the multigrain bread, and was surprised with their usage of real turkey meat (instead of deli-sliced turkey), but the cranberry chutney pretty much overpowered all other flavours.

Mack’s sandwich was equally good, though quite different. His creation included a generous amount of cheese and meat, and the side of skinny “diner fries” were the perfect crispy accompaniment.

Club Sandwich with ham and split pea soup

Monte Cristo with fries

After a delectable-looking chocolate cake was delivered to the table behind us, I knew I had to have it as well. So though our waiter recommended the Sour Lemon Pie, we chose the 5-Layer Chocolate Torte instead ($9). It turned out to be a tad expensive, as we didn’t know the price beforehand, but it was a nice way to end our meal. Mack, who doesn’t normally enjoy too-sweet desserts, was even able to finish his half of the cake. My only nitpick was that it would have been better at room temperature.

5-Layer Chocolate Torte

Reliable, relaxed, and friendly, Urban Diner is one of my favourite casual restaurants in the city.

Urban Diner
12427 102 Avenue
(780) 488-7274
Tuesday-Friday 11am-9pm, Saturdays 9am-1:30pm (brunch), 2-5pm (lunch), 5-9pm (dinner), Sundays 9am-3pm (brunch only), closed Mondays

Strikingly Pedestrian: Hundred Bar Kitchen

When I saw the brown paper signs depicting the newest Century Hospitality hotspot, I knew I hadn’t been so excited for a restaurant opening since L’Azia’s Wildflower Grill earlier this year.

Hundred Bar Kitchen exterior

Hundred Bar Kitchen (10009 101A Street), situated in the McLeod Building, has taken over the space of two  failed sports bar ventures. I am certain the name recognition of Century Hospitality alone will guarantee Hundred’s success, and based on a recent visit to the near-capacity restaurant, it is well on its way to becoming a popular downtown hangout for the 24-35 crowd.

Mack and I had reservations for Thursday night, and upon being greeted by a friendly hostess, we were promptly seated at the rear of the restaurant. The interior had been gutted, and has nearly no resemblance to the last tenant, save perhaps the location of the bar. Instead of a masculine space accented with dark leather and furnishings, Hundred is plush – carpet, curtains, rounded leather banquets, and stunningly gorgeous crystal chandeliers. Great for large groups, we passed more than our fair share of the after-work crowd and those that wanted to see and be seen.

I had previewed the menu online, so was already familiar with the contents and the design – a single page, divided into easy-to-read sections (though the writers need to review their use of quotation marks – when is ‘fromage’ not fromage?). The focus is on share plates, continuing with their group-friendly mentality, though there are a few sizable entrees, including the $100 surf and turf for those looking for more substantial eats.

We ended up ordering basic items, rationalizing that the restaurant had to walk before it could run. Mack wanted to give their Calamari ($11) a spin, while I was interested in their Kobe Meatball Sliders ($14). The Turf Flatbread ($16) appealed to both of us, a pizza topped with sausage and pancetta among other things, though in hindsight was rather pricey.

Hundred also has an extensive liquor “market” to tempt us, though I wasn’t in the imbibing mood that night. The $6 beer flight and $8 wine flight seemed to be the best deal, offered every Thursday night.

Our dishes arrived in timely fashion, attractively presented but not overbearingly so. The calamari actually turned out to contain a smaller portion than we expected, fluffed up in a high-backed bowl. I liked the sweet dipping sauce, but Mack’s final verdict was that it was a version comparable to the one produced at Earls. The slider meatballs themselves were good – slightly tangy from a tomato bath and nicely seasoned on the inside. The kaiser rolls, however, lowered the overall quality of the mini-burger – having realized the difference fresh bread makes after amazing sandwiches at the Italian Bakery and elevated sliders at Devlin’s, the slightly stale-tasting rolls just didn’t cut it. Lastly, Mack and I were divided on the flatbread: I awarded the kitchen points for achieving a sturdy crust, but I wasn’t sold on the flavour combination of sweet sundried tomato pesto, salty pancetta, smoky roasted red peppers and savoury sausage. Mack, on the other hand, loved it – so to each their own.

Calamari

Kobe Meatball Sliders

Turf Flatbread

The most memorable moment of the night had nothing to do with the food or anything tangible, but occurred when Mack was taking non-flash shots of the restaurant interior. The manager immediately came up to him and questioned his actions. Mack explained that he wasn’t from a conventional media source, and mentioned my food blog. The manager didn’t seem to be familiar with the world of social media, and while this may be excusable for “mom and pop” operations, for an establishment “courting the yuppie vote” so to speak, at least a scant awareness of life on the internet is called for.

Once the hype of the eatery has died down, I’m not sure Hundred has the kitchen chops to maintain my business. But judging from the success of Century Hospitality’s other holdings, I don’t think my absence will make much of a difference. 

Hundred Bar Kitchen
10009 101 A Street
(780) 425-0100
Lunch: Monday – Friday: 11am – 5pm
Dinner: Sunday – Wednesday 5pm – 12am, Thursday – Saturday 5pm – 2am

Decent Stopover: Lemongrass Cafe

Needing a quick bite before the third and final Presidential debate, Mack and I headed to Lemongrass Cafe (10417 51 Avenue). I came to that decision for three reasons: it was on our way home; the restaurant had provided food of reasonable quality at our staff retreat last week; and I had an Entertainment Book coupon to burn.

My first impression of Lemongrass Café wasn’t a positive one. A makeshift paper sign had been taped up on the door, reading something to the likes of “We are not accepting 2008 Entertainment Book coupons or cards.” As we wouldn’t have been able to get to and out of another non-fast food dining establishment in time for the show, we elected to eat there anyway.

Walking in to this strip-mall restaurant with an aged awning, I was surprised to find an uncluttered, clean and fairly modern space inside. The furniture appeared to be fairly new, though the wicker chairs left some more comfortable seating to be desired. Black and white photos of posed Asian women adorned the walls, and while artful and unexpected, they were a bit unnerving.

The physical menu was simple but nice – easy-to-read typeface on a white background, accented with photos of different ingredients or implements used in the cooking process. For the most part, the available dishes reminded me of the offerings at Hoang Long – both in composition and price.

Without a discount incentive to order a more expensive dish, I opted for a warming bowl of pho, my usual variety topped with medium rare beef ($7.50). Mack gravitated towards a rice plate, and decided on the stir-fried vegetables with beef and chicken, choosing to exclude the squid ($12.75).

Our food arrived in timely fashion (though the same could not be said for the water refills that did not come). My pho was bereft of onions, with just a few measly slivers to speak of, but I was happy to taste the comforting broth, flavourful but not too salty. Mack enjoyed his dish, noting that the kitchen didn’t skimp on the meat, but claimed there were “too many vegetables.”

Medium Rare Beef Noodle Soup

Stir-fry with Beef and Chicken

 

Caught in photography mode

Lemongrass Café won’t replace Pagolac for me, but should I be in the area and in need of an emergency hit of pho, at least I know now that there’s a decent stopover nearby. 

Lemongrass Cafe
10417 51 Avenue NW
(780) 413-0088
Monday – Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday 11am-10pm, Saturday noon-10pm, Sunday 4-9pm