Tag: restaurants

For the Love of Nostalgia: Diner Deluxe

On a slushy Saturday morning in Calgary, Mack and I made our way to Diner Deluxe, which has the distinction of being my favourite brunch purveyor in the city. I love the nostalgic feel of the place, the 70s furniture, the pastel walls, and how the kitchen spills into the dining area. It also helps that Diner Deluxe inaugurated me into Calgary’s brunch culture (something Edmonton is sorely missing), and subsequently led me to Nellie’s, Avenue Diner, Dairy Lane and Galaxie Diner, among others.

I find the wait, while the same in duration as some of the other places (anywhere from twenty to forty-five minutes), is tempered with chairs to sit on and self-serve coffee to ease the time. And of course, all of what we look for is there: quick kitchen-to-table service? Check. Coffee refills without request? Check. Heaping portions? Check.

On the back of the menu (too cute)

The rosemary potatoes in my egg and sausage breakfast were outstanding, crispy and flecked with herbs. The portion of sausage included was also quite generous. Mack’s stuffed French toast was a little unevenly prepared, with gobs of cheese in certain sections, but overall, he liked the indulgent dish.

Two Eggs with Sausage, Multigrain Toast and Hashbrowns

Sourdough French Toast Stuffed with Canadian Bacon and Smoked Cheddar

Though Mack said he preferred Galaxie (our counter/courtside seat to the flattop stage didn’t hurt), he liked Diner Deluxe as well. In the end, perhaps it’s a good thing we don’t have as many brunch eateries in Edmonton – I wouldn’t have the travel excuse to fall back on as a reason to visit them all!

Diner Deluxe
804 Edmonton Trail NE, Calgary
(403) 276-5499

Comfort Food at its Best: Farm

Oh, Farm. I’ve wanted to go to Janice Beaton’s jewel of a restaurant for so long that I almost can’t believe it’s only a year old.

Beaton is a noted Calgary-based cheesemaker who ran a successful cheese and charcuterie shop in Kensington for year. She decided to close the shop recently to focus on Farm, and though I only have one experience to base it on, I’m excited to see Beaton take an already wonderfully-executed concept to the next level.

A twenty-minute trek on foot from our hotel brought us to the bustling interior of Farm, a tiny storefront that is very easily missed. We joined a small line of about eight individuals, and were told that our wait would be no longer than twenty minutes. As we inched closer to the front of the line, we were amazed that each new server we encountered stopped to greet us and ask if we had been taken care of already. This, coupled with the option to order wine to accompany our wait, were small but appreciated gestures of welcome that helped set the warm tone for the evening.

We surveyed the décor as we sipped our wine – people were packed into Farm like the best kind of restaurants, in a get-to-know-your-neighbour kind of way. To that effect, Farm even has a communal table lit with two funky chandeliers, and though we didn’t mind our Founding Farmers dinner with shared seating, we were happy to have been treated to a more intimate affair that night.

I loved their exposed kitchen (complete with counter seating), the colourful chalkboard on the back wall declaring their ever-changing specials, and the carpe diem quotation that met patrons upon entry: “The tragedy of life is not that it ends so soon, but that we wait so long to begin it.” It was a sign that we should make the most of our visit. And we would.

Mack at Farm

One of Farm’s celebrated menu features are their cheese and charcuterie offerings. Going beyond a baguette-pairing though, the kitchen also pairs each selection with a special accoutrement. We were both feeling pretty starved, so decided on five selections ($25), and leaned on our expert server for guidance. He added to our choice of 3 year old cheddar and Valbella prosciutto with recommendations of double-cream brie, and bunderfleisch and venison salami also from Valbella.

The platter was beautifully put together, with each of the meats artfully arranged into vertical towers. Our server explained each of the pairings, some of them which seemed offbeat at first encounter: pickles with the bunderfleisch, mustard with the salami. We felt a bit like Ratatouille’s Remy in the scene when he experiments with taste and flavour combinations, particularly when we found our favourite – aged cheddar with grape jelly. While it seems strange, the initial sweetness gave way to the salty burst of the cheese, a perfect pairing. The prosciutto was another favourite, though sans the olive accompaniment, at least for me. The bunderfleisch was new to both of us, but had a rich flavour and texture that stood up well against the sharpness of the cheddar.

Cheese and Charcuterie Platter

We were a bit afraid our entrees, ordered up front, would be delivered while we were still making our way through adult cheese and crackers. But we should have given more credit to the restaurant, which expertly timed everything, and we needn’t have worried.

Our stomachs were ready for Farm’s comfort-food mains, which, as Andree wrote about last week, are meant to be shared. The Spring Creek Ranch short rib ($18) was fall-apart tender, and melted in our mouths. The creamy celery root puree was lovely as well, a nice change from the usual potato mash. I just wish there had been more of it!

Spring Creek Ranch Short Rib with Celery Root Puree and Roasted Beets

Mack’s choice of spicy mac and cheese ($10 for a small) was a winner – the nutty, crunchy breadcrumb topping made the dish for me alone. The sauce was also of a perfect consistency – neither runny or too stiff, with the addition of spice a welcome twist (counterbalanced by the side of sweet pickles). The size of the dish was an indication of how rich it was, and though Mack probably wanted to eat two portions, we were glad to have the short rib to balance it out.

Janice’s Mac ‘n Cheese

Our server was excellent, and provided some of the best service that I have had in a while. He was personable, good humored, and knowledgeable. And it was his concession that ultimately pushed us to order from the dessert menu – he offered to warm the chocolate chip cookies (5 for $5) for us.

Imagine capping off your comforting meal with homemade cookies – it was a revelation. Paired with a cup of strong Fratello coffee (locally-roasted, of course), we couldn’t have been happier. Even if they weren’t the best cookies I ever had (I would have preferred them to be sweeter), the fact that they were warm, and available at a full-service restaurant, was the icing on our proverbial cake.

Chocolate Chip Cookies

Before we left, we took a moment to explore the small shop behind the restaurant that sells cheese, meats and condiments. Though we didn’t need a reason to come back, we’ll be sure to bring a cooler the next time we do. Oh, Farm. I can’t wait for my next visit.

Farm
1006 17 Ave SW
Calgary, AB T2T 0A5, Canada
(403) 245-2276

Retro Cool ‘Dogs: Le Chien Chaud

I had heard great things about Calgary’s “other” hot dog palace, Le Chien Chaud. Having visited the infamous Tubby Dog last year, we thought a comparison stop was necessary to complete our Cowtown hot dog tour.

With Wednesday supper being our own responsibility (the conference would be covering all other meals over the next day and a half), I thought that would be a good time to pop over to Le Chien Chaud. Arriving at 7:30, Mack and I just made it – the owners were tidying up when we entered, readying for their 8pm closing time.

It is evident that the restaurant is a labour of love for owners Bob and Jane Steckle, who actually run the shop themselves. As opposed to Tubby Dog, which is a dive (albeit an endearing one), Le Chien Chaud has a boutique feel, with artfully displayed artefacts, posters, and memorabilia relating to the phenomenon of hot dogs. The walls are bright red, and when contrasted with the black and white checkered floor, the retro feel of the establishment is unmistakable.

Interior

While some of the topping combinations went beyond the usual ketchup, mustard and onion family, Tubby Dog definitely offers more creativity and shock value with their wasabi and cereal-encrusted creations. For that reason, the menu at Le Chien Chaud reminded me very much of The Dawg Father, Edmonton’s premiere hot dog purveyor. Mack ended up choosing the breakfast dog ($5.75), dressed with cream cheese and chive scrambled eggs, cheddar and bacon bits. The Coney Island dog ($5.75) sounded best to me, drenched in a meat sauce. We both opted for the default pork/beef combination, though all beef, vegetarian, buffalo and bratwurst was also available.

We sat down, and before we knew it, our freshly prepared meal was set in front of us. Mack and I were both immediately disappointed that the cheese was not melted – a trip through the broiler would have made a world of difference, especially as a means of binding the toppings together. Although Mack enjoyed his hot dog (commenting that it was moist and flavourful), he would have preferred warmed bacon crisps, instead of the bacon bits that almost tasted artificial.

Breakfast Dog

I am almost always a messier eater than Mack, and in this case, the ladle of meat sauce on my Coney Island dog had me at a disadvantage from the start. However, it was worth the mess, as it added a rich and textured punch to an otherwise typical dog.

Coney Island Dog

Our high expectations had raised the bar for Le Chien Chaud, and while we enjoyed our experience, wouldn’t advise going out of your way to try it.

Le Chien Chaud
3, 2015 4 Street SW, Calgary
(403) 229-3641
Monday-Saturday 11am-8pm, Sunday 12-5pm

Creations Grand Opening

A few weeks ago, I received an e-mail from Sawridge Inn inviting me to the grand opening of their new dining space, Creations. Located in the former Holiday Inn on Gateway Boulevard, I was interested to see what they had done – the photos on the website seemed promising.

We were greeted with a jam-packed parking lot on Thursday evening about halfway through the event. I think we were both expecting a more intimate, personable opening, so we did not anticipate the crowd that was present. We are also among the youngest in the room, and definitely underdressed in jeans, as most of the attendees were in business attire. We didn’t recognize anyone, though I found out after the fact that Foodie Suz was also there!

Creations Lounge

We were made to feel welcome though as we walked into the hotel, directed to the coat check and oriented to the layout of the space. The Creations Gallery features art work by Canadian artists, with new pieces presented on an ongoing basis. The water feature separating the exhibition from the lounge was lovely.

Creations Gallery

The art theme continued in the dining space, with a focus on Aboriginal pieces. I loved the wood and stone accents, which helps separate the room from the bustling freeway outside. And though Creations isn’t large, the high ceiling helps make the space seem bigger.

Welcoming dream catcher

Dining room

Stunning 12 foot fireplace

Several food and drink stations were scattered throughout. Not only was wine poured, but champagne and spirits as well! We also helped ourselves to bite-size samples of several of their regular menu items. Mack’s favourite was the teriyaki scallops, while I loved the pork tenderloin with a blueberry and port compote.

Pork Tenderloin with Blueberry and Port Compote and Sherried Beef Caprese

Almond-encrusted Sole, Cranberry Chicken Breast and Flat Iron Steak

Dungeness Crab and Spinach Dip and Pistachio Lamb with Rhubarb Chutney

On the whole, I was impressed with the food. Considering everything had to be prepared in large batches and kept warm either with burners or heat lamps, I could still taste the quality.

Before we left, we were each given at $25 gift card. Even if they hadn’t provided us with this generous gift, I would have considered returning for a full meal anyway – the entrees are intriguing, and the menu prices are reasonable. We’ll be back, and I look forward to experiencing Creations on a regular night.

Creations (in Sawridge Inn Edmonton South)
4235 Gateway Blvd.
(780) 989-4439

Solo Lunch: Holt’s Cafe

Sometimes I am forced to be timely with my restaurant reviews, particularly when new establishments open up. Other times, my good intentions never pan out, and reviews are pushed back in favour of different posts. My recap of a solo weekday lunch at Holt’s Café falls into this latter category.

In late summer, when the weather was more reasonable than it is now, my first choice of lunch at Fo Guang Tea House was dashed with the temple’s closure for a special event. I thought about my nearby options, and settled on Holt’s Cafe inside Holt Renfrew, which like Fo Guang, is essentially only open for lunch. I had been there once before several years ago, and though I found the meal satisfactory, haven’t been able to return because of their limited operating hours.

So book in hand, I settled down at my table and watched as the downtown lunch crowd trickled in after me. I should note that the waitress was particularly great – she was warm, and made conversation without ever overstepping her boundaries (for example, she saw that I was reading My Life in France and asked if I had seen the movie). At the end of my meal, when I requested more water, she brought me a  pretty wine glass filled with ice water – a nice touch.

The menu had changed since my last visit, featuring some more upscale fare (and changed again in October). Though the vegetable fritters sounded like an interesting appetizer, my waitress steered me away from them, stating that they were dry. So instead, I chose the truffle potato chips ($6). For my main, the spring pea and lemon risotto with mascarpone and shiitake mushrooms ($15) sounded like the comforting dish I was looking for.

The truffle potato chips were merely fried potato crisps drenched in oil and sprinkled with salt. Unfortunately, the simplicity didn’t mean perfect execution, and it was overdressed in every way – the potato was barely discernable underneath it all.

Truffle Potato Chips

Thankfully, the risotto fared much better. The rice was creamy, accented nicely by the mascarpone with additional texture from the crisp peas and silky mushrooms.

Lemon Risotto with Mascarpone and Shiitake Mushrooms

If you’re looking for a restaurant in the heart of downtown for a solo lunch, or for a quiet place to catch up with a friend, Holt’s Cafe is worth a try.

Holt’s Cafe (inside Holt Renfrew)
10180-101st Street NW
(780) 425-5300

Mmm Pumpkin Pie: Fife n’ Dekel

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

Like Sharon, fall is my favorite time of year. I love the brisk weather, the colorful leaves, and yes, seasonal treats! Perhaps my favorite is pumpkin pie. While driving in the west end this past weekend, Sharon and I stopped at Fife n’ Dekel to pickup a slice for me ($3.49). Sharon doesn’t like pumpkin pie, if you can believe it!

Pumpkin Pie

I opted to forego the whipped cream. I found the pie very tasty with great texture! Great pumpkin flavor. The crust was just right – not too soft, not too crunchy.

Pumpkin Pie

I had never been to Fife n’ Dekel before, but based on the pumpkin pie, I’ll be back!

Fife n’ Dekel
10646 170 Street (2 other locations)
(780) 489-6436
Monday-Friday 7am-4:30pm, Saturday 10:30am-3:00pm

Edmonton’s Newest Bakery: Duchess Bake Shop

Life is all about the little things. Watching the leaves fall from the trees in autumn. Drinking in the mid-afternoon sun. Savouring that first sip of morning coffee. Or, finding that a new bakery opened up in your neighbourhood.

Thanks to Nate Box (who will be opening his own restaurant, Elm Cafe, soon enough), I found out about Duchess Bake Shop, located in the High Street area within walking distance of Mack’s place, and right along my homeward bound bus route. I stopped in on Monday to check them out, and found that they had only been open a whirlwind three days.

Interior

The shop has a chic, sophisticated feel about it, with hardwood floors and a dominant white interior. A chandelier and a handful of tables and chairs round out the space, helpful for those looking to stay and pair their indulgence with something from the bakery’s cafe menu.

Owners Garner and Giselle Beggs have been thinking about opening a bakery for years. Fresh from a four year sojourn in Tokyo, they decided the time was ripe to return and make their dream a reality. Although Duchess offers many French-inspired treats (croissants, macarons, madelines), Garner says they aren’t restricting themselves to a French repertoire, with apple and banana cream pies also available, among other treats. Everything is made from scratch without preservatives – even the food colouring they use is from natural sources.

Macarons

I picked up two croissants ($1.50 each) for Mack and I to serve as a savoury bridge to dinner. They smelled of butter, and on first bite, had that crispy-crunchy texture I look for in a croissant. Mack didn’t like it as much (he prefers the softer variety), but I’d buy it again.

Croissants

Duchess also serves croissant sandwiches, which would make it an interesting destination for lunch. Or, like the couple who filed into the shop after me – for those looking for something to “make a bad day better”. I will be back.

Duchess Bake Shop
10720 124 Street
(780) 488-4999
Hours as of October 26, 2009: Wednesday 9am-6pm, Thursday-Friday 9am-8pm, Saturday 10am-6pm, Sunday 10am-5pm, closed Mondays and Tuesdays

Marathon Pho: Ninh Kieu

The ongoing chronicles of pho continued at Ninh Kieu, an establishment I have passed by countless times on my way into Chinatown, but never really noticed. The only reason it stood out at all was due to the fact that they had, at some point, put up a white vinyl sign which attracted my eye.

The restaurant is most notable because of their large windows, which enclose just about the entire dining area. As I am used to the shadowy corners of Pho Tau Bay, this was definitely a pleasant change. We could have done without the tinkering elevator music though, which although had the intention of providing a relaxing atmosphere, had the opposite affect.

Interior

As is standard, we split an order of green onion cakes ($4.75) to start, and opted for our usual benchmark bowls of pho – for me, the medium rare beef ($7.50) and for Dickson, the special beef noodle soup ($8.50).

Service was friendly and fairly efficient – we weren’t left waiting for our food. I would pass on the green onion cakes next time though – while crisp, the kitchen may have misplaced the salt while making the dish.

Green Onion Cakes

As I always order the smaller portions of pho when given the opportunity, I wasn’t ready for Ninh Kieu’s marathon version of pho. And it wasn’t just me – even Dickson had difficulty getting through the entire serving. However, quality is more important than quantity in the case of pho, and though we found the broth to be satisfactory, it didn’t make an indelible impression on us either.

Medium Rare Beef Pho

Special Beef Noodle Soup

Having the opportune location next to Pho Tau Bay, whose closure periods are hard to predict, I would consider returning to Ninh Kieu in a pinch. I would just have to prepare my appetite for a worthy opponent beforehand.

Ninh Kieu
10708 98 Street
(780) 429-8881
Sunday-Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm

Food Notes for September 28, 2009

I’m happy that my crew of choice won the latest season of America’s Best Dance Crew (even though they still pale in comparison to last year’s champion, Quest Crew). This week also sees the return of both The Hills and The City, hurrah! On to this week’s food notes:

  • Chez Cora has been on my hit list of brunch diners to hit (with locations in Calgary, among others across Canada), but as it opened its first Edmonton outpost today, it looks like I will be able to satisfy my curiosity without leaving the city. The restaurant is located at Calgary Trail & 29 Avenue in Gateway Village, and is open for breakfast and lunch from 6am-3pm. Hurrah for more sit-down, non-fast food breakfast options in Edmonton!
  • Creations, the revamped restaurant in the Sawridge Inn (4235 Gateway Blvd), opened on September 25. The menu looks promising.
  • Liane reported that the third Mikado outpost in the west end (9942 170 Street, 780-481-2202) is set to open on October 1.
  • Jan Hostyn profiled Patty Milligan (aka Lola Canola) in Vue this week.
  • I know traditional media outlets often receive press releases sent en masse, but I’ve never before seen an impersonal “blogger targeted” mass e-mail…until this week. It’s for an upcoming fall harvest dinner at Culina Highlands on October 19: 5 Italian dishes, each paired with an Italian wine, for $65/person. I wish there was something I could link to, but nada.
  • The LitFest schedule is out – and there are many food-entwined events on the list, such as Savouries – readings featuring Liane and Jennifer McLaglan (author of Fat), alongside appetizers inspired by the writing. I’m sad that I will have to miss it (I will be out of town), but I’m sure it will be a great evening!
  • Andree wrote about gourmet food available on campus at Calgary’s SAIT Polytechnic – as with NAIT’s student showcase buffet, I think it’s awesome when students are able to show their hard work and efforts off to the public.
  • This magnet that looks like a chocolate bar is too cool. I originally thought that it would make a great gift for a chocoholic, but on second thought, because it looks so real but is made of wax, it might actually be a cruel present.
  • The word of the week in the NY blogosphere was “foodiot” – first, an article discussing the phenomenon of people’s constant obsession to update others on what they are eating – enabled by tools like Twitter and Facebook. And then, a great deconstruction of how this came to be over at Grub Street. Yes, I admit to being a foodiot sometimes…
  • After picking our share of potatoes on Saturday, the lot of us headed to Hudson’s for lunch. This may well have been my first visit to Hudson’s, but I wasn’t sure. The patio at the 104th Avenue location was pretty nice, and felt sheltered from the thoroughfare. I liked their “mini menu” that featured small versions of burgers and sandwiches, inspired, I’m sure, by the popularity of bite-sized sliders. I ended up ordering the mini beef dip ($10.99, plus $1.99 for fries). The meat was a little thicker and seemed to have been drenched in a sauce to disguise the dry texture – with the au jus, it wasn’t bad, but I’ve had better beef dip elsewhere. Mack had nothing negative to say about his fish and chips ($13.99), and Jane, Yi-Li and Annie all liked their burgers. Watch for a fifth location at South Common to come in November.

Patio at Hudson’s

Mini Beef Dip

Fish and Chips

Yi-Li with his Champion two patty burger (which he heroed)

  • Mack and I finally made our way to the sparkly new Southgate this weekend. We had been meaning to go for weeks, but between our busy schedules and Mack’s sound un-enthusiasm for shopping, our belated visit made sense. The new wing interior reminded us a lot of Calgary’s Southcentre Mall (actually developed by the same company), and for that reason, we weren’t as wowed as we could have been. The food court, however, is definitely the nicest in Edmonton. And seeing as I remember the days when the booths could have easily been misconstrued as dungeons in the Southgate food court of old, I can hardly believe the change.

    • Revamped Southgate Food Court

  • What I don’t want to accept is how expensive mall food has become. We hedged our bets with something new – a decent butter chicken from Rasoee, an Indian outlet – and at $6.59, I’m sure we could have done much worse. Still, the value wasn’t there, even though both of us admitted that the basmati rice was very nicely cooked.

    • Rasoee’s Butter Chicken

  • VIA, Starbucks’ venture into the world of instant coffee, hits all North American stores on September 29 (they will be sold in boxes of 3 or 12). Yesterday, while picking up a night cap, we were lucky enough to get a few free samples! We haven’t tried it yet, but we have read many positive reviews that say that it is the best instant coffee to ever hit the market.

VIA Samples

Lingering the Night Away: The Secret Garden at The Dish

Restaurants, as of late, have never been the destination. For us, eating out has been a bridge to some other event, a necessary evil prior to another engagement. As a result, we haven’t had a meal in quite some time where we could linger, relax, and simply soak up the ambiance. Last Friday presented an opportunity to do that, and we made the most of it.

We’ve been to The Dish a few times, but its Secret Garden, accessible only by a separate entrance, was never made apparent to us. We walked past its concealed gate a few weeks ago, and after peeking in to discover a hidden terrace bursting with romance and greenery, resolved to return before autumn fully reared its head.

Mack called ahead to make a reservation, which ensured us a cozy table under the twinkle lights, next to the lone tree that seemed simultaneously out of place and yet right at home. From the overhead rafters hung baskets of plants, infusing the space with a touch nature so sorely lacking on many other patios in the city.

Mack in the Secret Garden

As the sky darkened to dusk and then nightfall, staff brought out tabletop candles for each party as hushed conversations continued amongst the serenity. It was a lovely setting in which to wind down after a long work week.

The food was pitch perfect as well, straightforward and comforting. I was again swayed by their deep dish quiche ($14), this time featuring chicken, artichoke hearts, Portobello mushrooms, asiago, brie and cream cheese. Mack opted for their meatball flatbread ($15), and we both decided on a side of creamy tomato and basil soup.

The soup was a little too tangy for me, though it suited Mack’s palate just fine. My quiche was as I had expected, the crisp and flaky crust and dense baked egg being exactly what I was looking for. Mack’s flatbread, however, won the entrée sweepstakes that night, with the flavourful herb-flecked meatballs stealing the show.

Deep Dish Quiche

Meatball Flatbread

Portions at The Dish are modest, meaning that while leftovers are usually out of the question, having room for dessert is a distinct possibility. Over coffee, we pondered our options, and settled on the phyllo lemon tart. After receiving our phyllo-encrusted dish, we realized puff pastry might have been the better choice for ease of separating the crust from the serving vessel, but the custard, which manoeuvred between sweet and tart with ease, accented with the smooth whipped cream and biting raspberries, made up for it.

Phyllo Lemon Tart

Service was warm but not overly attentive, but it suited the relaxed mood of the patio. I would imagine, however, that as most parties seemed to be of the lingering sort, the level of staff attentiveness might have been an adaptation to the clientele.

Our coffee mugs were refilled as we finished the last of the dessert and relished the freedom of our open schedule that evening. Though we may not have the opportunity to do it again for a while, I’m glad were able to whittle the night away at the Secret Garden before the end of summer.

At dusk

The Dish (Secret Garden hours are dependent on the weather – call ahead)
12417 Stony Plain Road
(780) 488-6641
Monday-Saturday 11am-9pm