Food Notes from April 20, 2009

  • CityFarm, a wonderful initiative to teach children and families about growing food is shutting down due to funding constraints. A meeting scheduled for Monday night is exploring possible mergers with other city agencies.
  • The Edible Prairie posted about a “meet and eat” showcase of local food taking place on Wednesday, April 22 at the J.G. O’Donaghue Building.
  • It looks like the Edmonton Food Security Network has rebranded themselves as “Just Food Edmonton”. Help them relaunch on Saturday from 10am-3pm in McIntyre Park.
  • Liane interviewed Culina’s Brad Lazarenko in the Journal this week. He’s moving back to Edmonton and will be revamping menus at both Culina locations.
  • Vue Weekly published a profile on Transcend Coffee’s Poul Mark, as well as a great piece about the Edmonton Guerrilla Gardeners.
  • Kerstin Chocolates’ first-ever Easter Egg Hunt was a success, with ten people receiving a prize for their efforts! BruleeBlog also posted about her experience locating eggs here.
  • It seems the second T & T Supermarket (in Northgate Mall) is finally going forward, and is apparently set to open in July.
  • My sister said the University of Alberta campus is getting their first Starbucks (in Cameron library) – I thought the U of A had a deal with Aramark? Also on Starbucks – while they are closing stores all over North America, Poland of all places is one of their targeted growth areas.
  • Andree Lau over at Food Bytes wrote a piece highlighting some of the recession deals to be had in Calgary, including one at the stellar Teatro.
  • The Globe’s Lucy Waverman attempts to boil down recipes into bite-sized ,140 character Tweets. I have to say, I don’t think I could be that articulate.
  • I was happy to see a story about IKEA’s elimination of plastic bags as of July 1. Which supermarket will step up first to follow suit, I wonder?
  • I headed over to Flirt Cupcakes last week to interview one of the owners for a story I’m working on. Of course, I couldn’t resist sampling one (or two) of their cupcakes. I tried both their coffee-topped chocolate cake and their vanilla cake with strawberry icing, and I have to say that I preferred the latter – the natural sweetness from the real strawberries made such a difference in the icing.

 

Coffee Cupcake in Flirt

  • Yes, there is another Taco del Mar coming soon, this time in the Meadows. Seriously, who eats there to warrant an exponential growth of the chain in the city, particularly in these lean times?!

 

Another Taco del Mar

  • I am so happy the snow is off the ground, and that the weather is slowly looking better. It means that I’ll be able to move my budding herb garden out onto the balcony soon! As someone who hasn’t grown anything since elementary school, it does amaze me that nearly all the seeds we planted managed to sprout. Whether or not they’ll live long enough to produce any basil or parsley is still yet to be seen, but I’m optimistic.

My container herb garden

The Cooking Chronicles: Spanish Paella

Or perhaps more accurate – non-paella paella. I caught an episode of Michael Smith’s Chef At Home recently where he prepared a paella recipe that even I would eat, free of many ingredients that are unappealing to me, but what I thought were central to paella as a dish. The proteins consisted of chicken, sausage and shrimp, with nary a shell in sight. Saffron, another additive frequently used, was also missing from the recipe, but I was willing to overlook that in favour of experimentation.

The best part about the dish was its one-pot nature – once we had browned the sausages and chicken, everything, from the proteins, rice, tomatoes, and chicken stock, were thrown into the saute pan to cook together. Half an hour later, we had a fragrant, hearty meal.

Spanish Paella with Chicken, Shrimp and Sausage

Tomato was the dominant flavour of the dish, and I would have preferred additional notes present. Also, the shrimp had become so waterlogged over the last half hour that the texture was closer to that of lobster. Next time, I would be sure to add them closer to the end.

Overall, I was happy with the paella, and would make it again with some adjustments. The large pot lasted us several meals (both lunches and dinners), which meant less cooking over the week – always a plus!

Not Much of a Reward: Double Greeting Wonton House

After making it through our salsa classes, I figured we deserved a reward of some kind. Logically, we headed to Double Greeting Wonton House.

Exterior

Situated in what Mack referred to as “the ghetto”, the restaurant was just a block away from where our classes were held, so it made sense to make the most of the neighbourhood we were in. The exterior (and the building’s rundown neighbours) weren’t promising, but a few people had told me good things about Double Greeting.

The fluorescent interior was brighter than I had expected to find, and dare I say cleaner as well. Multicolored handwritten signs papered the front counter, while a television tuned to Newsworld maintained the rapt attention of a few older patrons. I liked the wooden fixture that divided the room in half, though Mack couldn’t figure out why.

Yes, they’ve probably never replaced the fabric lining the booths…

We picked a booth near the back of the restaurant and mulled over the menus we were given – the selection was absolutely massive. We both laughed at the front page that read “today’s special”, which, given the laminated nature of the menu, was probably more like “everyday’s special”. That night, I was in the mood for small plates, and decided to choose a few dim sum items to make a meal. Mack said spring rolls were a must ($5.50 for 6), and I added on steamed BBQ pork buns ($3.75 for 2) and pan-fried pork dumplings ($7.50). To round out our dinner, Mack decided he had to try their ginger beef on rice.

The dishes came out at a fairly good pace, and our tea was refilled promptly, so I had no complaints about the service. The quality of the food was another thing, particularly because the prices reflected an amount very similar to other (better situated) Chinese restaurants. The best of the bunch were  the steamed pork buns, and even they weren’t that great – the diced meat wasn’t distinct, and the dough was more crumbly than fluffy. The spring rolls were nothing special, and the dumplings were depressingly tiny (Happy Garden’s dumplings are easily three times that size).

Steamed Pork Buns

Spring Rolls (they always get a thumbs up from Mack)

Pan-fried Pork Dumplings

The ginger beef on rice was the most disappointing of all – overly sticky and artificially sweet, Mack, the supreme lover of ginger beef, couldn’t even finish the plate.

Ginger Beef on Rice (angle inspired by are you gonna eat that)

Based on that visit, I likely wouldn’t return again, particularly when a ten minute walk would yield many more viable eateries in Chinatown proper.

Double Greeting Wonton House
10212 96 Street NW
(780) 424-2486
Sunday-Thursday 10am-12am, Friday-Saturday 10am-1am

Gems are Always Tiny: Boualouang

I had been warned that Boualouang, a Thai and Laos eatery in Chinatown, was tiny, but I wasn’t prepared for a space that likely wasn’t ever meant to be a restaurant. Dickson and I intentionally planned a late meal, and arrived at Boualouang at 1pm in an attempt to avoid the lunch rush, and were lucky enough to snag the last of six tables.

As our table was nudged right up against the door, we were both thankful that it wasn’t –30 outside – as it stands, their heating bill must be astronomical. Of course, having seen evidence of a larger storefront about two blocks down 97th Street, I was assured Boualouang would be relocating soon (perhaps April?), and given the number of parties the waitress had to turn away during our stay, I’m sure the move isn’t soon enough.

Dickson in Boualouang (yes, the restaurant is just three tables deep)

I had heard from others that their curries were a must-try, so decided on the Gaeng-Kiew-Vahn, a green curry and coconut milk with mushrooms, green peppers, sweet basil and chicken ($12.95), and upgraded the steamed rice accompaniment to coconut rice for an additional $1.50. We also had to try our benchmark Thai dish – the pad thai with shrimp ($13.95).

From the pace that the dishes were being delivered to the other tables, we knew we were in for a wait. Given the size of the dining room, we could only guess the size of the kitchen. A half hour after putting in our order, our green curry arrived. It was definitely worth the wait – the heat was balanced perfectly with the tang provided by the kaffir leaves, and the chicken was meltingly tender. Paired with the richness of coconut rice, we would have easily given up the pad thai for a second helping of curry.

Green Curry with Chicken

The pad thai was presented in a nice reflective bowl lined with lettuce and garnished with orange slices. Both of us were surprised at how deep the dish was, but could have done without the slight pool of grease at the bottom of it. I liked the use of a broader noodle than most Thai eateries, and neither of us had anything negative to say about the pad thai as a whole, except that it didn’t wow us like its curry predecessor.

Pad Thai

Though we made it back out through the doors a little later than we had planned, uncovering another gem was well worth it. I will be back to give the rest of the curries a try.

Boualouang
10669 97 Street
(780) 423.4207
Monday – Saturday 11am-9pm

Food Notes for April 13, 2009

How is it that long weekends (and four-day ones at that) just evaporate? Hope everyone had a good Easter break!

  • In the vein of the “very sexy party” held at Eden Lilly in February, local companies that promote sustainability and ecology have banded together to put on an event called Tipsy Hippy at Whyte Avenue’s Lucid Lifestyle, taking place on April 18. There will be food and drinks, art displays, and music. Vendors will include EnSante Winery, AlleyKat, and Breadland.
  • Jan Hostyn wrote a great profile of Baker Bill, aka Bill O’Gorman, the man behind the fast-vanishing bread at the Old Strathcona and City Centre markets.
  • Ballots for See Magazine’s 2009 Best of Edmonton are out. Eligible ballots submitted by May 2 will be entered to win prizes.
  • A little Vancouver-based company that makes Hardbite Potato Chips were featured on one of the Great Food Revolution episodes recently. I found them at the Italian Centre in a multitude of flavours, but the salty and simple Himalayan Crystallized Salt is my favourite so far.
  • Culinary documentaries are all the rage, it seems – Gold Medal Plates, a seven-part behind-the-scenes look at Canada’s “most coveted culinary competition” airs its first episode on Travel & Escape on Sunday, May 10. Episodes can also be seen online.
  • There were a few notable articles in the NYT this past week – the first on an intriguing trend of restaurants having wines on tap (yes, you read that correctly), another on pairing wines with Chinese cuisine, and a piece on banh mi in New York.
  • I still think Costco should consider implementing an express line, and it seems some think Starbucks needs one as well. A recent post on the Starbucks Gossip Blog quotes someone who thinks there is merit to having a separate line for those who can order their drinks in four lines or less, otherwise: “If you need to use the words ‘caramel,’ ‘chocolate,’ ‘pumpkin,’ ‘eggnog’ or ‘peppermint,’ you’re not drinking coffee. You’re having dessert.” Heh.
  • While I didn’t have a “proper” Easter dinner this weekend, I did have a potluck with a few of my girlfriends. I took care of dessert (an apple crisp I have made in the past), while my friends supplied the bulk of the meal:

Janice’s Apple and Grape Spinach Salad

May’s Pistachio and Breadcrumb-crusted Fish

Annie’s Spanish Omelette

The Cooking Chronicles: Olive Oil Popcorn

To accompany a viewing of Slumdog Millionaire (good movie; I liked the flashback motif), Mack and I decided to make stove-top popcorn.

My coworkers had been telling me about some of the ills of microwave popcorn, and after seeing Michael Smith whip up a pan full fairly easily, it didn’t seem difficult at all. We used his recipe as a guide, lightly coating the bottom of a skillet with olive oil, and tossing the kernels on top. It turned out we should have chosen a deeper skillet, as the popped kernels quickly took up all available space underneath the lid.

Popcorn!

We tossed the popcorn with some olive oil, salt, and chilli powder. Whether it was my heavy hand, or an extra-hot version of powder, we didn’t know, but our end product was a lot spicier than we had intended. Still, it’s something we will make again, with different seasonings.

The Cooking Chronicles: Poached Salmon with White Wine Cream Sauce

I am currently reading Alisa Smith and J.B Mackinnon’s 100 Mile Diet. The novel chronicles the Vancouver-based couple over one year of eating only local products. It’s not bad so far, though my strongest criticism about halfway through is a lack of Canadian statistics – while I am certain such numbers would be more difficult to come by, one of the reasons why I was drawn to the book in the first place was in the hopes that it would supply me with a well-supported Canadian context.

At any rate, the recipe for poached salmon in white wine cream sauce intrigued me, even though some of the directions were decidedly vague. Of course, salmon within a 100-mile radius would be next to impossible to obtain, so we headed to Ocean Odyssey Inland (10027 167 Street NW, 780-930-1901), a local purveyor of wild seafood.

Ocean Odyssey has been at their west end location for about three and a half years, though they are also present at the City Centre Farmers’ Market. The storefront offers most types of fish you could think of, in addition to some shellfish (they had some of the largest lobster tails I have ever seen). I didn’t ask if all fish were obtained in this manner, but the salmon (all wild) are supplied by independent fishermen, and are flash frozen after being caught. Seafood is definitely an area where my knowledge about sustainable practices is lacking – it is something I need to learn more about.

Salmon cooler

Besides the great seafood, Ocean Odyssey also carries products from local producers, including Greens, Eggs and Ham (we had placed an order for duck eggs, which can be picked up on Friday or Saturday), Medicine Man Bison and Sunworks Organic Farm. Pat is knowledgeable about all of the products she sells as well, which definitely helps the consumer.

Mack shopping

We ended up with a package of cod cakes ($8) and two salmon filets, the latter of which were priced at about $7 each by weight, just $2 more than the fish I typically pick up at a grocery store. We pan-fried the cod cakes when we got home for a snack, but were disappointed with their soggy texture – we will likely just stick with the filets in the future.

Following the 100 Mile Diet recipe, I got to work reducing the sauce, which combined 2/3 cups of vegetable stock, 1/2 cup of white wine, 1 cup cream, and 3 tablespoons of dill. I resorted to using chicken stock, and excluded the buttermilk, but it didn’t seem to negatively alter the taste. Like most times when making sauce, I didn’t expect it to actually thicken, but I was very happy with the finished product.

As for the salmon, this was our first time poaching anything. We filled our pan with enough water to cover the filets, and set to work heating it up. Impatient, we attempted to multitask and set to preparing salads for lunch the next day, and forgot about the fish. The pot began to boil (something the recipe advised us to avoid), so we added a teaspoon of vinegar in an attempt to keep the filets together. They didn’t fall apart on us, so Shane’s trick worked.

Poached Salmon with White Wine Cream Sauce

Served with steamed broccoli and brown rice, it was a nice Sunday dinner. Mack noted that the fish seemed to have cooked through more evenly with the poaching technique than our usual roasting option. The sauce was a little on the rich side, but I liked the combination of cream and dill – the white wine was negligible.

While we’re still on the fence as to whether or not we’ll make this dish again, we both agreed that we will be back to see Pat at Ocean Odyssey.

Food Notes for April 7, 2009

A little late this week, as was tied up attending the Mayor’s Celebration of the Arts last night. But here we go:

  • Kerstin’s Chocolates launched their first ever Easter Egg hunt on Monday, in partnership (and to promote) other local businesses. Find 3 or 6 eggs and be awarded a prize for your efforts! Also of note, Kerstin’s is now on Twitter!
  • Original Fare introduced a new website called Eat Local First, which will strive to be a resource for those seeking locally-grown and made products.
  • “Four slender young things, sheathed in what appear to be black silk sausage casings, break off their conversation and bat their eyelashes our way as we approach the reservation desk.” Yes, that is a quote taken from a review of Kai Asian Grill penned by the Journal’s Richard Helm. Was it just me, or did he seem to overemphasize the desirability of the restaurant’s waitresses?
  • Liane Faulder wrote a short piece about the new Spinelli’s Bar Italia attached to the downtown location of the Italian Centre.
  • Vue Weekly released their annual Golden Forks ballot this past week – vote for your favourite restaurants before May 5 to be eligible for prizes!
  • It makes me think of the River City Chicken Collective, but Castledowns Library installed a webcam in their chicken coop to allow patrons to see chicks hatch. It’s called the “chicken cam.” Cute.
  • I had to laugh (and simultaneously admire) the New Yorkers petitioning in an effort to get their resident food critic Frank Bruni on Twitter (and with some “flattery”, no less: “we’re pretty sure that you could top @ruthreichl, @edlevine and @roccodispirito and maybe even @emeril with your follower count in less time than it takes for you to put away a porterhouse for two.”). I can’t think this would ever happen in Edmonton with Liane Faulder.
  • Last one on the subject of Twitter: Transcend pulled an April Fool’s Day prank on its blog readers with a post about a future drive-thru espresso bar that would allow customers to Tweet their orders on the way. Of course the culture of coffee Transcend cultivates would never allow this to happen (Poul Mark says, “we want to see our customers, know them, and preferably, have them come in, sit down and stay a while”), but was I the only one who got excited in the idea of a local food/beverage establishment utilizing Twitter?
  • I haven’t caught an episode of the new Food Network show 100 Mile Challenge yet, but I’m intrigued about their focus on families attempting to eat locally. I like that the website ties in the potential for viewers to search for local vendors, but it could do better and link to already existing aggregates (e.g. 2009 Approved Farmers’ Market map).
  • Charcuterie may not be a trend that can endure tough regulations, says the Globe. I’m still waiting for a charcuterie bar in Edmonton.
  • The results of the 2009 Urban Diner Awards, which celebrate the best in Vancouver’s cuisine, were released today. I think I’m going to have to check out Fuel the next time I’m out west.
  • It was bound to happen – Disney is trying to make money off the ‘buy local’ movement by partnering with Orlando for an initiative which calls McDonald’s “local”.
  • Mack and I had supper at The Lingnan last week before a show at the Citadel. We ordered an entire plate of Amy’s Chicken (aka Hot and Dry), which Mack claimed was worth every deep fried calorie. Marty ended up being our server that night, and we took the opportunity to ask if the Quons had been asked back to do a second season – he said no, and that Miles was not keen on it. He, on the other hand, was, insisting it would be subtitled, “The Rise of Marty”. Heh.

 

Hot and Dry Chicken

 

Shredded Aristocratic Greens

  • At a Slow Food Meeting on Sunday, I was able to try Aprikat, a fruity brew by Alley Kat. I rarely drink beer (and by rarely, I mean never), but I was surprised at how mild and refreshing the apricot-scented Aprikat was. I would consider drinking it outside on a hot summer’s night.

 

Glass of Aprikat

  • Annie and I caught up over coffee and dessert at Vi’s for Pies (13408 Stony Plain Road NW) on Friday. It was probably not the easiest place to converse – their high ceilings and harsh surfaces resulted in acoustics Frank Bruni would detest. Food-wise, however, we were satisfied: though I’ve never met a pie I couldn’t conquer, their Peanut Butter Mousse Pie ($6.25) defeated me. Dense with peanut-ty richness, I probably could have done with a slice half the size.

 

Peanut Butter Mousse Pie

 

Annie’s Chocolate Cheesecake

The Cooking Chronicles: Danny Kaye’s Lemon Pasta

The recipe I had in mind for our fresh fettuccini noodles was one I had come across in Ruth Reichl’s memoir Comfort Me with Apples some moons ago. Like every aspiring cook, I had photocopied the recipe for “Danny Kaye’s Lemon Pasta” and tucked it away to be used on just such an occasion.

It wasn’t difficult  – the cream and lemon-based sauce with just a touch of pasta water was quick to pull together, though I questioned the amount of lemon zest and juice called for in the recipe. In the end, it was much too tart for my liking (I should have trusted my instincts), though we thought it would make a good side for a roast chicken or salmon main. We probably should have also added additional pasta water – the congealed cream as the dish cooled reminded us of the heavy carbonara we tried last year. Better luck next time!

Danny Kaye’s Lemon Pasta

There’s a First Time for Everything: KitchenAid Pasta Maker

Last month, a marketing company promoting KitchenAid products contacted me to ask if I was interested in giving their Pasta Maker a try. Always up for experimentation, I said yes, and shortly after, received a large box with my name on it.

All smiles with my Pasta Kit

Mack laughed at me when I told him I expected a package tied up in a red bow with a label, “To: Sharon, Love: KitchenAid,” but it was a little like the Cooking Fairy had decided to pay me a visit. The Kit contained two stainless steel stand mixer attachments – a pasta roller and fettuccini pasta cutter – as well as a brush for cleaning and a slotted spoon and pasta server. Lastly, two boxes of Ecco La Pasta mixes were included to simplify initial attempts.

KitchenAid Pasta Kit

Contents

We started with the egg pasta dry mix, added water, and let the stand mixer do the work. Once the dough came together, I relied heavily on the manual, particularly because I needed as much guidance as possible, having never made pasta from scratch before. It wasn’t entirely clear to me how the lump of dough we now had in front of us should be divided to be fed into the pasta roller (better illustrations or pictures would have helped matters), but we eventually figured out that thicker clumps of dough yielded the desired yard of pasta that would eventually be cut into individual noodles.

Dough coming together

Mack working the pasta roller

Cutting the pasta into recognizable fettuccini noodles was the best part, gratifying the work we had done up until that point.

Go Mack go!

Making fettuccini

Finished noodles

I think we were surprised at how quickly everything came together. Even if we hadn’t used the pasta mix, it still wouldn’t have taken much longer, as the stand mixer does most of the grunt work. As with most store-bought products as well, we liked that the pasta maker would give us control over the ingredients used in the dough (I wonder how duck eggs would fare in pasta?).

We both acknowledged, however, that despite how straightforward it was, we likely wouldn’t put in the extra effort to make something that could easily be picked up at the store. That said, I’m eager to look for recipes that involve different colour or flavour additives to the pasta – something unique that would wow guests at a dinner party, or would somehow spice up a fairly mundane dish.

I’m looking forward to our future pasta experiments!