Road Trip: Fort Saskatchewan and Jurassic Forest

At the end of June, in lieu of a birthday gift, Mack and I took the opportunity to spend the day together and explore some area attractions that we hadn’t made the time for yet.

To start, we headed to Fort Saskatchewan for their highest profile restaurant – The Downtown Diner. Having been featured not only in the Journal, but also in Food Network’s You Gotta Eat Here, Keith and Lori’s brand of comfort food has attracted some devout fans, many who are willing to make the drive from Edmonton for a meal.

Because of that, we were expecting a bit more of a line, but hey, no complaints here. It also probably helped that we missed the frenzy caused by the television episode by about a week. The diner itself is fairly non-descript on the outside, located along one of the main drags in downtown Fort Saskatchewan. Inside, the L-shaped restaurant is lined with cushy red vinyl booths and checkered floors, and looks exactly how you’d imagine a diner to be.

The Downtown Diner

The staff also play their part – they were genuinely welcoming and friendly, with Keith making a point to thank every table for their business.

The menu is full of diner classics including burgers, fried chicken and mac ‘n’ cheese. Our seat by the kitchen actually made ordering very difficult – everything coming off the counter looked amazing. I settled on the diner hash with some meat ($14), while Mack was swayed by the special, a fried chicken and waffle sandwich ($14).

He definitely won this round: the fried chicken was spot on, crispy and tender, sandwiched by layers of waffles and cream cheese.

Fried chicken and waffle sandwich

My hash would have been enough to feed the two of us, made up of potatoes, scrambled eggs, turkey (an add in), and topped with gravy and hollandaise. In hindsight, fried eggs would have been the better choice, but it was still a satisfying dish. Both of us agreed we’d be back soon to take on the later day entrees.

Diner hash with turkey

The staff at The Downtown Diner are definitely proud of their restaurant – it shows in the food and the service, and you won’t regret the trek out to see for yourself.

After brunch, we headed on foot to a nearby park to see the other attraction in Fort Saskatchewan that we’ve heard a lot about: the sheep.

If you didn’t know, Fort Saskatchewan started utilizing sheep as their living lawnmowers in 1992. From June to September, a flock of about fifty sheep can be seen grazing at various parks four days a week. And yes, this novelty draws its share of tourists, to the point where they have a “sheep hotline”.

We found them!

On that scorcher of a day, the sheep weren’t too difficult to find, clustered under the only available shade cast by a grove of trees. Although the website proclaimed how friendly they were, they did seem pretty wary of us.

With Fort Saskatchewan’s mascots

Along the way, we also stumbled upon the Fort Heritage District. It is a much smaller facility than our own Fort Edmonton, but they had an exciting lesson of axe throwing underway. We were invited to watch the students, but needless to say, we were asked to stand way back.

Axe throwing at the Fort

We hopped back in the car and continued north to Gibbons for Jurassic Forest. With the release of the popular Jurassic World sequel this year, Mack was hoping for more formal staycation tie-ins with Jurassic Forest, but we only just realized that in some ways, the attraction is old hat – we were both surprised to hear that it opened back in 2010.

Since then, Jurassic Forest has undergone a number of upgrades, and have increased the animatronic figures from 42 to 51, and have enhanced their educational displays. We didn’t really know what to expect, but we hoped to be intrigued.

T-Rex

The dinosaurs were split between two heavily shaded trails (something we were thankful for on that day). We initially liked the idea of “stumbling upon” the creatures as we turned the corner, unknowingly tripping a motion sensor, causing the figures to come to life.

Edmontonsaurus, on the right

But in some ways, we were disappointed that the dinosaurs had such limited movement (opening of eyes, raising of arms, and flicking of tails).

Stegasaurus, one of my childhood favourites

Mack was also anticipating that we’d be able to get closer to the animatronic displays. The novelty of seeing them in the distance like wildlife quickly go old, and some of the figures were hard to see in the bush.

In the distance

While we appreciated the placards describing each dinosaur, there were also some randomly placed placards about the flora and fauna, which may not have actually coincided with their location. We understand the facility was trying to encourage learning about our own native species still present, but they seemed like an afterthought.

T-rex selfie!

Since we were there anyway, we extended our stay with a round of mini golf. It was probably a mistake to remain out in the full sun for any longer than we had to, but it was a fun side activity.

Journey to Extinction mini-golf

The Telus World of Science now has a similar animatronic exhibit called Dinosaurs Unearthed, so you may not have to travel as far to see these prehistoric creatures come to life. But it is at a smaller scale, and doesn’t have the built-in appeal of the outdoors. And while I’m not sure I’d recommend Jurassic Forest for very young or older children, it was still a site to experience.

Looking forward to our next adventure close to home!

Tailor-Made Pizzas: Urbano Pizza Co.

Although there is no question downtown Edmonton is blessed with its share of top-notch restaurants, there is definitely still room for more independent quick-serve options. That’s one of the reasons why I was happy to hear that Urbano Pizza Co. was moving into the neighbourhood, offering up another fast, casual alternative.

Interior

Urbano completes the trifecta of restaurants built by Christian Mena and Lino Oliviera, rooted into the Boardwalk with their adjacent establishments Sabor Divino and Bodega Tapas and Wine Bar. Urbano was not only inspired by the pizza trend in the U.S., but also a family-driven need to accommodate dietary restrictions. The concept allows for a completely customizable pie, factoring in the needs of celiacs, vegetarians and vegans.

Topping bar

Their investment in TurboChef ovens also help propel another selling feature of Urbano – speed. Freshly-prepared pizzas can be fired in 90-120 seconds, a new record in the city, and one that will not only make them a popular lunch destination but also, when the arena opens next year, a probable pre-game stop for many.

Last Thursday, too lazy to cook, Mack and I visited Urbano for dinner. While the handful of patio seats were taken, there was only one other party inside. I’m sure the word is still travelling about Edmonton’s newest pizzeria.

The former health food store has been transformed into a modern space, with pops of red accenting the mostly neutral colour palate. To emphasize the made-to-order nature of Urbano, the front counter is not unlike that of quick-serve sandwich joints, visually showcasing available ingredients. The ovens are front and centre, and allow customers to actually see the pizza baking in front of their eyes.

TurboChef ovens

That day, surveying our six pre-designed signature options, Mack and I settled on the bacon & eggs ($11.95) and Piri squared ($11.95). Customizable pizzas start at $11.95, and Urbano also serves salad and gelato (something that will be handy if the scorching temperatures continue).

After ordering, we had a seat, and the pizzas were brought to us (we didn’t time it, but it was pretty quick). The crust was very thin and crispy for the most part. The width also lent the pizza an overall quality of lightness, so would be attractive for those seeking a lighter meal.

Crust

Mack was impressed that his pizza actually had poached eggs on top that hadn’t been overcooked. Alongside back bacon, Caciocavallo cheese, and onion jam, Mack always enjoys breakfast-inspired concoctions for dinner, but didn’t find it particularly special.

Bacon & eggs pizza

The Piri squared featured some ingredients I haven’t had before on a pizza – piri-piri chicken, Portuguese chorizo, Limiano cheese, fire roasted red pepper sauce, shoestring potatoes and pickled vegetables. While I wouldn’t say they all complemented one another, it was nice to see a flavour connection to its sister restaurants.

Piri squared pizza

Service was friendly, and as mentioned before, efficient. Only time will tell if Urbano as a concept will take off, but given the near-universal love of pizza, it may one day stand as an example of adaptable fast food that doesn’t compromise quality.

Urbano Pizza Co.
110, 10220 103 Street
(780) 705-1885
Monday-Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm, closed Sundays

Boston Travels 2015

I’ve been so behind on my travel posts I’m resigned to the fact that I’ll never catch up. But writing about my trip to Boston in April with my sister Amanda is a start for me!

The decision to vacation in Boston was actually one of elimination. Amanda was finishing up her training in Toronto, so we decided to book what would be a short-haul flight for her. We’d both been to New York before, she’d been to Detroit recently, and Chicago was a place Mack forbid me to visit without him. So Boston it was, and with the promise of the Bruins and the Celtics making it to the post-season, we were optimistic that we could include some playoff action during the trip.

View from the rooftop deck of our AirBnB rental

Although only one of two teams would end up qualifying for the first round, we ended up with plenty to do outside of the city’s athletic achievements.

Boston’s connection to the American Revolution seems to be one of the main tourism draws. We ended up on a Freedom Trail tour led by a costumed interpreter. “Isaiah Thomas” was in his fifth season with the company, and his enthusiasm for history showed.

With Isaiah Thomas

The tour was informative and entertaining, with corny jokes woven throughout (Beantown Pub, across from the Old Granary Burial Ground, is the “only place you can have a cold Sam Adams while looking at…a cold Sam Adams”). The Americans on the tour definitely had a better grasp of the characters involved, but it gave us a good foundation to better appreciate the sites.

Old Granary Burial Ground

One of those sites was Boston Common, a green space near the State House that reminded me of The Mall in Central Park. The Common was an area set aside by the Puritans for the shared use of all. The playground was overrun with children that day, and on a less chilly day, I’m sure the adjacent wading pond would be equally full. It was a great centrally-accessible, family-friendly space that we could definitely see more of in Edmonton.

Boston Common

On the other side of Boston Common lay the country’s oldest botanical gardens. We braved the spring chill to take a ride in the pedal-powered swan boats and snapped a picture with the famous Make Way for the Ducklings bronze sculpture.

Swan boats

With the Ducklings!

Faneuil Hall, a legacy building for a wealthy merchant, was a touristy disappointment, though I am glad we sought out the adjacent Haymarket.

Haymarket

Far from a farmers’ market, the vendors hawked discounted produce from wholesalers needing to make room for new shipments. There was also limited seafood to be had.

Seafood options

The low prices were likely the reason the set-up of the merchants was so poor; tent poles restricting right of way, narrow thoroughfares not meant for large crowds.

Haymarket produce

We couldn’t get enough of Boston’s wide sidewalks, blossoming trees and brick and stone buildings.

Bricks and blooms

Beacon Hill was Amanda’s favourite neighbourhood, with its quaint streets and boutiques (it was also the home of, in our opinion, the best location of Second Time Around, a well-curated consignment store with multiple branches in the Boston area). I will say Boston’s lack of a grid system of streets was confusing to navigate; our first night was full of wrong turns and frustrations. I will also note that Bostonians, although friendly, were not the best at giving directions – we were sent the wrong way three times.

Too quaint Beacon Hill

Outside of Boston, we explored Cambridge for the better part of a day.

Bustling Cambridge Square

Honour system book sales were scattered around the area

The student-led Harvard tour was the highlight, with historic facts of the storied school intertwined with the guide’s personal anecdotes.

Our tour guide, Bobby, in the red sweater

Among other things, we learned that The Social Network was, in fact, not filmed on campus (productions have been officially banned since the 1970s), and that most students receive an average of $42,000 in financial aid.

Memorial Church

With “John Harvard”

The JFK Presidential Library and Museum in Columbia Point was also a destination for us.

JFK Presidential Library and Museum

The site itself was worth a visit, with a view of the Boston skyline, and a gorgeous atrium emblematic of hope and optimism.

Stunning atrium

But the exhibits were interesting too, outlining Kennedy’s Presidential campaign, his years in office (with a focus on the Cuban Missile Crisis) and Jacqueline Kennedy’s contributions to the preservation of White House history. A particularly intriguing annotated guest list by Ms. Kennedy for a dinner honouring the French Minister of Culture included the scratched out names of Mr. & Mrs. Irving Berlin, for not being “avant-garde enough”.

I loved the “If I were 21, I’d vote for Kennedy” pins

As mentioned, sports factored into our itinerary. Game 4 of the Cavaliers vs. the Celtics was the first live NBA playoff game for both Amanda and I, and though neither of us can claim to be big Celtics fans, we relished the opportunity to watch King James in person (his no-look pass in the first quarter was a sight to see). Unfortunately for the home fans, the Celtics were outmatched, and the Cavs completed the sweep.

The view from the nosebleeds

We both looked forward to joining our fellow Canadians at Fenway, to watch the Blue Jays take on the home team.

At Fenway!

The Red Sox are a religion in Boston, and it was amazing to see the surrounding streets of America’s oldest ball park come alive on game day (parking, if you were wondering, runs up to $50). Streetside vendors, program hawkers, and bustling patios created an atmosphere other cities would envy.

Yawkey Way

The Jays ended up losing that night (6-5 on a 9^th inning RBI), and the windchill was fierce, but we had a blast. I couldn’t wait for the eighth inning rendition of “Sweet Caroline”, and I wasn’t disappointed. I loved how the players just went about their business while the crowd was singing along.

What of the food, you ask? Amanda was sidelined with the stomach flu upon arrival to Boston, which somewhat limited our dining choices, at least initially. She was a trooper though, and we still managed to sample a variety of what Boston had to offer.

Food was a gateway into some of Boston’s neighbourhoods. Eater’s recommendation of Taiwan Café provided a reason to visit Chinatown, which, not unlike other Chinatowns in North America, had busy eateries but deserted streets after dark. Taiwan Café was packed mostly with college students, and offered cheap and tasty xiao long bao.

XLB from Taiwan Cafe

Our student Harvard guide had recommended a few North End establishments for us. Gennaro’s ended up being a let-down, with so-so food and no atmosphere to speak of (it was difficult to have any conversation while being watched by the host next to our table).

Passable carbonara from Gennaro’s

Café Vittoria, in operation since 1929, was a better recommendation, serving up delicious lattes and gelato in and amongst antique espresso machines and a soundtrack from the 50’s.

Sustenance at Café Vittoria

Mike’s Pastry was referred to us as a touristy destination worth skipping, but we’re glad we stopped by, even just to soak up the atmosphere of a North End institution.

Mike’s Pastry

Our lone brunch was had in Cambridge at the sister restaurant of a popular music venue. The Sinclair had a great vibe, and my favourite dining room of the trip, with large common tables and an industrial-chic aesthetic. The meat half of my chicken and waffle dish was great, but the waffle tasted a day-old.

The Sinclair

Chicken and waffles

For lunch after our Harvard tour, we sought out a tourist favourite, Mr. Bartley’s Burger Cottage, with politically incorrect names for all of their creations (for example, “the MBTA – Mass Broken Transit Authority”, referencing the disastrous February full of delays for beleaguered commuters). It was a place I knew Mack would love, with burgers cooked to preference and a haphazard décor cobbling together years of random additions.

At Mr. Bartley’s Burger Cottage

It was also a restaurant that had been “grandfathered in” so it was permitted to operate without a customer restroom, something we had never encountered before.

Medium rare(!) burger

Mei Mei, a brick and mortar restaurant borne from a successful food truck, was a bit of a disappointment. Selling its fusion dishes, we found that the Asian influences were just too subtle.

Pierogi dumplings from Mei Mei

Amanda was strong enough to brave seafood towards the end of our trip, so we visited the local chain Legal Sea Foods in Copley Place. I really enjoyed the New England clam chowder, and their tempura take on fish and chips wasn’t bad either.

Great clam chowder from Legal Sea Foods

Our favourite meal was easily Sweet Cheeks Q, a barbecue joint opened up by Top Chef alum Tiffany Faison. The interior had the perfect worn-in feel, if staged, and the food spoke for itself. The biscuits, served with a compound butter, were the best thing I ate in Boston.

Still dreaming of these biscuits

The lunch tray, with Heritage pulled pork and mac ‘n’ cheese, was no slouch either. And though the service had been great in Boston as a whole, Sweet Cheeks topped the list with their genuine and attentive staff. I almost wished we had eaten here earlier on in the trip so we could double back.

Pulled pork lunch tray

I’m not sure I will revisit Boston again (Chicago is up next!), but we had a nice time there. Like any large metropolis, there’s something for everyone, though I’d recommend at least taking in a Red Sox game if you’re visiting during the season.

Gourmet Hot Dogs on the Avenue: The Dog

Let’s call it the “Journal effect” – the overnight increase in business whenever a new restaurant is profiled or reviewed in the paper. Establishments and customers know this to be anecdotally true. It was certainly apparent the day Mack and I visited The Dog on Friday.

It was a coincidence that I had picked The Dog: we had yet to try it, and a pre-Rush dinner was a good excuse given it was conveniently on the bus route between our home and Rexall Place. But fresh from a review that Wednesday, there was no doubt the restaurant was scrambling to keep up – the servers shared that there was a line-up out the door for lunch that afternoon, and suspiciously, the diners around us also happened to be the average age of a Journal reader.

The Dog replaced the upscale casual restaurant concept Absolutely Edibles. In some ways, given the success of the neighbouring Sloppy Hoggs, it made sense for the owners to replicate the comfort food mantra in their sister space. The décor has changed quite dramatically, with a diner-esque bar asserting itself in the centre of the room, and a pantry of sorts in the back, with house-made accoutrements for sale. Unfortunately, the stone mosaic tables remained from the restaurant’s previous incarnation; hopefully they will be replaced at some point in the future with less fussy furniture.

Pantry wall

The menu was much more extensive than we anticipated. They have about a dozen signature dogs, created with a base of beef or beef and pork dogs made by Real Deal Meats. They also had house-made sausages of more exotic varieties – namely, kangaroo, alligator, wild boar and seafood. Rounding out the menu were a number of appetizers, milkshakes and desserts.

Mack and I stuck to the more tried and true on this visit – he ordered the Coney Island ($8), a beef dog topped with beef chili, cheddar, yellow mustard and diced onion, while my Trailer Trash ($8) beef and pork dog was topped with mac & cheese and bacon. We also ordered fries ($4) and onion rings ($5).

Coney Island and fries

We both agreed that the house-made buns were great – soft and yielding as they should have been. Similarly, the dogs themselves were snappy and full of flavour – these weren’t your average ballpark wieners! The toppings, however, were a bit disappointing – both the chili and mac and cheese wouldn’t be able to stand alone; to have enhanced the overall dog, they needed to have a punch all on their own.

Trailer Trash and onion rings

The portion sizes of the fries and onion rings were more than generous (how some managed to consume a dog, side and a milkshake was beyond me), and the entrée prices were reasonable. Service was friendly but brisk, understandably so, given the circumstances.

I’d definitely return to The Dog to try one of their more peculiar creations, but perhaps not for a few weeks, when the fervor has died down.

The Dog
9567 118 Avenue
(780) 424-6823
Tuesday-Sunday 11am-9pm, closed Mondays

Korean Street Eats in Old Strathcona: NongBu

Everything’s coming up Korean! With mainstream restaurants like Earls featuring bibimbap and Joey’s serving Korean fried cauliflower on their spring menus, with time, I’m sure other staples like bo ssam and Korean fried chicken might soon appear as well. But for a more authentic taste, Edmontonians have a few fairly new options to choose from, including Tofu House and NongBu. Mack and I decided to give NongBu a try, after seeing a spate of positive reviews.

Located in a former eyewear boutique just off Whyte Avenue, NongBu joins an already vibrant hospitality district. But despite the fact that they’ve only been open a few weeks, the vibe they are cultivating is spot on, and reminded us of some of the young and hip establishments we visited in Seoul.

The décor is minimal, with a focus on wood and polished concrete surfaces. They also made use of a large overhead wall as a fun projected movie canvas – who says art needs to be static?

Mack at NongBu

When we arrived, we only had to wait briefly for a table on the main floor. There is additional seating on a mezzanine level, and given the eagerness demonstrated by the staff to accommodate party sizes, relocating tables between the floors wasn’t a problem.

The menu at NongBu is focused, with a variety that spans about a dozen dishes. Most items are intended to be shared, so it’s a great option for those who enjoy small plates. Mack and I ended up ordering the royal ddukbbokki ($11), gemma rolls ($8.50) and the bo ssam for two ($32).

I probably expected too much from the ddukbbokki, hoping the dish would transport me back to the Seoul street food tour we did back in October. The sauce was pleasantly sweet, but the rice cakes were a little on the firm side for my taste. The black pepper was also a bit overpowering.

Royal ddukbbokki

The gemma roll was perhaps my favourite dish – I loved the chewy texture of the eggroll, and the beef and vegetable filling had been well cooked and seasoned.

Gemma roll

The bo ssam arrived as a beautifully plated platter and several small vessels containing soup and rice. The lettuce was certainly fresh, and we couldn’t complain about the quantity of meat included. That said, the pork was definitely meant to be consumed as a part of a wrap with a generous dab of chili sauce; without that added heat and seasoning, we found that the meat on its own was tender but bland.

Bo ssam

Our server was extremely gracious and humble, and apologized for the wait and timing of our food (even though we really didn’t find fault with either). But he seemed genuinely interested in ensuring we had a positive experience, so we appreciated the gesture.

Overall, while we did enjoy our evening at NongBu, we do think the kitchen can improve their consistency in the weeks and months to come. But given their focused menu, I am hopeful that NongBu will have a successful place among this current wave of Korean cuisine in Edmonton.

NongBu
8115 104 Street
(780) 989-0997

Sandwiches Worth Seeking: Farrow

With today’s return to winter, it seems even more distant, but before my trip to Boston, there wasn’t any better excuse than a gorgeous spring day to cross the river on foot and finally try Farrow’s much lauded sandwich creations.

When we arrived at around noon, the line was more than half a dozen deep, spilling out onto the sidewalk. The predominant aroma of bacon, wafting through the open door, kept us firmly rooted in place. The interior of the sandwich counter is predictably straightforward – sandwich art and a few window stools (though everyone ahead of us chose to eat al fresco on the picnic tables outside, or on the raised patio of its neighbouring sister restaurant, Three Boars). I will say I enjoyed Farrow’s simple line and carabineer chit system, to efficiently carry order information to the kitchen on the other end of the counter.

The chalkboard menu proclaimed that one of the four varieties had already sold out for the day. Mack and I both ordered the “grick middle” ($7.25), a name no doubt inspired by their fast food counterparts across the street. But the comparison stops there.

Our butcher paper-wrapped packages concealed a classic but well-made combination of ingredients – crackling bacon, a yolky fried egg, cheddar and a tangle of fresh arugula – you won’t find that at McDonald’s. But my favourite part of the sandwich was actually the bread – squishy and yielding, it let the “middle” sing. Consumed outdoors with a cup of cold brew coffee alongside it, Farrow provided us with the perfect low-key brunch. As a bonus, Farrow has a loyalty card – record 12 sandwiches on a punch card and the next one’s free!

We spent some more time exploring the businesses in “The Bridge District” (that name never took off, did it?), including dessert at Menchie’s and shopping at The Red Pony. It was a nice reminder of what awaits us on the other side of the river, which increasingly, seems to be anchored by Farrow. Get yourself to Farrow soon – it meets the hype and then some.

Farrow
8422 109 Street
(780) 757-4160
Monday, Wednesday-Friday 8am-4pm, Saturday-Sunday 9am-4pm, closed Tuesdays

Choose Your Own Noodle Adventure: Tao Garden

Like the One Ring to rule them all, to me, pho is the ultimate in noodle soups. That said, I know some people can’t have beef, or just prefer to change it up now and then. For those seeking variety, or have a group of particular eaters, Tao Garden would be a good option.

Located behind Lucky 97 in Chinatown, Tao Garden offers a pretty good deal – a customizable bowl of noodle soup plus a hot coffee or tea for just $10.50. Select a broth base, a type of noodles, and two toppings (ranging from vegetarian to meat and seafood) and you’re on your way!

Tao Garden menu

The broth choices surprisingly don’t include beef, but the dozen varieties include chicken, lamb and seafood-based soups. On my first visit a few weeks ago, I decided that the chicken broth would be a good baseline test. I added thick rice noodles, sliced beef brisket, pork and shrimp wontons, and (for an extra $1.50 per item) baby bok choy.

Loved the mismatched cups

The broth had been nicely skimmed, but was under seasoned. Punched up with some chili oil, the soup was satisfying enough. I’d likely venture into the lamb broths on my next visit. Regarding the brisket, I was expecting the thin-sliced versions found in pho, but the thick pieces of meat here, slightly on the chewy side, made for a nice serving size. The won tons were easily my favourite, full of flavour; I would have gladly ordered an additional serving.

My noodle soup

Though Tao Garden also offers some rice-based dishes, congee and appetizers, not one table ordered anything but their noodle soups. The “choose your own adventure” concept does make them unique. Combined with friendly service (the server refilled our tea multiple times without request, never a given in Chinatown, unfortunately) and a well-kept interior, it is a restaurant I wouldn’t hesitate to return to.

Tao Garden
9642 107 Avenue
(780) 705-9688

The Crudo Welcome: The Black Pearl

Restaurants have been a family affair for the Crudos. After successfully running large-scale establishments in Edmonton and Penticton, brothers Cristo and Nick reunited with their father Giuseppe following their mother’s passing to open up Café Amore. The cozy Delton storefront was soon bursting at the seams, having built a reputation of good food, personal service, and the atmosphere of a neighbourhood trattoria. It prompted a move into larger digs two years later where they’ve continued to flourish and cement their hospitality excellence.

Now, the Crudos are preparing to open The Black Pearl, a seafood destination, on April 17, 2015. Though its location downtown on 104 Street may seem more upscale, it was only fitting that host extraordinaire Cristo, Executive Chef Nick, and patriarch Giuseppe welcomed us like family at the sneak peek Wednesday night.

The space has been completely transformed, only retaining the bones of what Lit had installed prior. Comparisons to East Coast fixture Atlantic Trap & Gill would be warranted, and at the very least, their rejection of the modern simplicity that dominates area décor schemes certainly sets them apart.

Interior

The Black Pearl is intended to showcase the Crudos’ love of seafood, developed especially when they had the chance to live on the coast. The restaurant will only serve fresh seafood, and as a result, the menu will rotate on a monthly basis to promote seasonality. The crustaceans in the tanks by the bar were a reminder that many of the dishes we sampled that night were made with their compatriots.

The long bar

Prepare to get your hands dirty at The Black Pearl. I would imagine most diners ordering a few plates to share, family-style, passing around the seafood cracker. The hands-on approach to eating promotes the conviviality of the restaurant, and references the more casual atmosphere of its sister restaurant. No doubt, one of the restaurant’s crown jewels will be King & Dungeness crab, served in a Crown Royal, chili, scallion and ginger cream sauce. It was a statement dish similar to the pasta pescatore so well known at Café Amore.

King & Dungeness crab

For calamari seekers, their crispy version topped with squid, ginger, garlic, scallions and chili hit all the right notes for us.

Calamari

The head-on BC side stripe shrimp, sauteed with pimento, scallions, shallots and garlic oil had a bit of kick to them, and beautifully presented, were almost too good to eat.

Shrimp

Although the dishes did primarily focus on seafood, The Black Pearl doesn’t alienate those who prefer meat, with beef carpaccio and roast chicken on the menu. One of my favourite tastes that evening was the house-made porchetta served with maple glazed Brussels sprouts – the right amount of fat and a hint of sweetness.

Porchetta with Brussels sprouts

Mack and I also really enjoyed a salad that celebrated the beauty of simplicity and quality ingredients; the cherry tomatoes topped with fiore di latte and house-made pesto balsamic glaze is a must-try.

Cherry tomatoes and fiore di latte

It will be interesting to see how The Black Pearl is received. Sabor Divino has had a lot of success with a similarly seafood-focused menu just one block over, and of course, Café Amore itself has a loyal customer base to draw from.

But as Cristo shared with us, The Black Pearl is a labour of love for his family, and the project has been driven by their passion for hospitality. That care and attention came through in the food and the service in spades, and hopefully, with this second location, even more Edmontonians will be exposed to the warmth of the Crudo welcome.

Thanks again to Cristo, Nick and Giuseppe for having us!

The Black Pearl
10132 104 Street

Toronto Transplant: The Burger’s Priest

Before the Rush game on Friday night, Mack and I walked over to The Burger’s Priest to see if this Toronto transplant could live up to all of its frontier hype. The Burger’s Priest is among the latest of fast casual premium burger joints to invade our city, following in the footsteps of places like Fatburger, Five Guys and Smashburger. Promising a higher quality product, it does seem Edmontonians are willing to pay a premium for burgers classed a cut above fast food chains.

I’m sure it’s been just as busy since day one, but a combination of a long weekend and its newly-minted status meant it was a packed house. Being the polite Canadians we are, though, the table turnover was reasonably quick, so most who ordered weren’t left awkwardly waiting for a seat (otherwise, I was certain to flashback to our stress-inducing experience at Shake Shack in Manhattan).

As with the conversion of any other former dentist’s office or optical shop into an eatery, The Burger’s Priest is a compact space. But they’ve made the most of it, leaving a majority of the windows uncovered and incorporating as many seats as possible along the walls. Mack was saddened that like most of the businesses along the 109 Street strip, The Burger’s Priest also opted to hive off their Jasper Avenue entrance in favour of the door that predictably faces a parking lot.

Exterior

The Burger’s Priest offers a menu of ten different burgers (one vegetarian option), fries, milkshakes, fresh-baked cookies and ice cream sandwiches. I did find the tongue-in-cheek names amusing (the “Red Sea” is a cheeseburger with chili on top, while Lethal Weapon partners “Riggs & Murtaugh” inspire the name of their black and white shake). Mack and I didn’t hesitate before ordering – we knew we had to try the “Vatican City” ($11.99), double cheeseburger served between two grilled cheese buns. We also opted to share fresh cut fries ($3.69).

We didn’t have to wait long before our order was called up, piping hot and labeled to distinguish between Mack’s burger with all the fixings and my own. Unwrapped, in all its glory, the Vatican City was definitely a photogenic burger, the melted processed cheese calling back to adverts we’ve all been conditioned on. The patties themselves were juicy (The Burger’s Priest prides itself on grinding its beef on-site), but the seasoning could have been more consistent throughout. I also could have done with just a single layer of meat, so as to better emphasize the grilled cheese buns.

Vatican City

In all honesty, Mack and I both went into the experience hoping to find an Edmonton version of our Portland revelation – the YouCanHasCheeseburger from Brunch Box. $6 for a burger bookended by two Texas toast grilled cheese sandwiches – no pretense, just a well-made burger. But we didn’t find that solace in Vatican City.

Mack about to dig in

The fries were fine but nothing special, and one order was more than plenty for the two of us – I’m not sure how an individual could finish a single order of fries on their own.

Fries

So although we didn’t find a burger that met our Portland standard, it will be handy to have a grilled cheese sandwich burger option in the neighbourhood. And even better, it’s one we’ll have to walk to, in order to build up an appetite…and to walk it off afterwards.

The Burger’s Priest
10148 109 Street
(780) 760-0777
Monday-Wednesday 11am-10pm, Thursday-Saturday Noon-10:30pm, Sunday Noon-8pm

Meet for Brunch: Meat

Mack and I rarely get out for brunch in Edmonton. Weekends are an opportunity for us to sleep in, but more than that, we find there are only a handful of places in the city that are worth waking up for. In this instance, Calgary has us beat – their brunch culture is far more dynamic, offering variety to spare.

On Saturday morning, after dropping off Mack’s Mom at the airport, it seemed prudent to take advantage of the fact that we were already out and about. After stopping at the nearby Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market, we headed over to Meat. The restaurant just started offering brunch on weekends from 11am-2pm earlier this month, so it wasn’t a surprise that the crowd was tame; it’s still a well-kept secret.

Mack at Meat

In some ways, Meat was made to host brunch. Their expansive windows allow in ample natural light, and also double as a vantage point for the bustling street outside – people watching over coffee isn’t a bad way to start the weekend. Lastly, their large communal tables make Meat a natural meeting place for large groups gathering over brunch – something not necessarily seamless in other establishments.

The menu is straightforward – 7 breakfast dishes, 3 sandwiches and the option to add booze to your coffee. Most of the dishes incorporate their smokehouse staples – buttermilk fried chicken & flapjacks, for instance, or housemade Southern grits with your choice of brisket or pulled pork. Mack selected the beef brisket benny ($15), while I couldn’t resist the biscuits & gravy ($13).

The kitchen was right on top of things, as our dishes arrived in no time. Mack’s benny was built on a buttermilk biscuit, topped with brisket, caramelized onions, a perfectly soft poached egg and housemade hollandaise. He liked the fact that the usual English muffin had been replaced with a flaky biscuit, and did especially enjoy his crispy, indulgent hash brown.

Beef brisket benny

My biscuits & gravy weren’t advertised as anything else, and its components were tasty. The biscuits were definitely the highlight, and would have been worthy of unadorned consumption. The sausage gravy wasn’t overly studded with meat as I’ve encountered before, and because of that, I think there could have been more to the dish. Canteen’s version adds hash browns and sausage patties, but what makes Meat unique is their namesake. As they work through enhancing their brunch offerings, it would be great to see an “add on” section on the menu, where diners could not only add a poached egg on top of their biscuits & gravy, but also some pulled pork or brisket. A fellow diner commented on how her request of pulled pork on top of the smoked apple and cheddar flapjacks is what made them sing. Or, how about a side of fried chicken? Sure. An extra biscuit? Why yes, please!

Biscuits & gravy

That said, it’s still early days in Meat’s brunch service. They have a great foundation – service was excellent, as always – and the food did convince us that waking up some weekends could yield some rewards. We’re looking forward to returning again on an early bird inspired weekend.

Meat
8216 104 Street
(587) 520-6338
Sunday-Thursday 5-10pm, Friday-Saturday 5-11pm; brunch Saturday-Sunday 11am-2pm

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