Category: food

The Cooking Chronicles: Danny Kaye’s Lemon Pasta

The recipe I had in mind for our fresh fettuccini noodles was one I had come across in Ruth Reichl’s memoir Comfort Me with Apples some moons ago. Like every aspiring cook, I had photocopied the recipe for “Danny Kaye’s Lemon Pasta” and tucked it away to be used on just such an occasion.

It wasn’t difficult  – the cream and lemon-based sauce with just a touch of pasta water was quick to pull together, though I questioned the amount of lemon zest and juice called for in the recipe. In the end, it was much too tart for my liking (I should have trusted my instincts), though we thought it would make a good side for a roast chicken or salmon main. We probably should have also added additional pasta water – the congealed cream as the dish cooled reminded us of the heavy carbonara we tried last year. Better luck next time!

Danny Kaye’s Lemon Pasta

There’s a First Time for Everything: KitchenAid Pasta Maker

Last month, a marketing company promoting KitchenAid products contacted me to ask if I was interested in giving their Pasta Maker a try. Always up for experimentation, I said yes, and shortly after, received a large box with my name on it.

All smiles with my Pasta Kit

Mack laughed at me when I told him I expected a package tied up in a red bow with a label, “To: Sharon, Love: KitchenAid,” but it was a little like the Cooking Fairy had decided to pay me a visit. The Kit contained two stainless steel stand mixer attachments – a pasta roller and fettuccini pasta cutter – as well as a brush for cleaning and a slotted spoon and pasta server. Lastly, two boxes of Ecco La Pasta mixes were included to simplify initial attempts.

KitchenAid Pasta Kit

Contents

We started with the egg pasta dry mix, added water, and let the stand mixer do the work. Once the dough came together, I relied heavily on the manual, particularly because I needed as much guidance as possible, having never made pasta from scratch before. It wasn’t entirely clear to me how the lump of dough we now had in front of us should be divided to be fed into the pasta roller (better illustrations or pictures would have helped matters), but we eventually figured out that thicker clumps of dough yielded the desired yard of pasta that would eventually be cut into individual noodles.

Dough coming together

Mack working the pasta roller

Cutting the pasta into recognizable fettuccini noodles was the best part, gratifying the work we had done up until that point.

Go Mack go!

Making fettuccini

Finished noodles

I think we were surprised at how quickly everything came together. Even if we hadn’t used the pasta mix, it still wouldn’t have taken much longer, as the stand mixer does most of the grunt work. As with most store-bought products as well, we liked that the pasta maker would give us control over the ingredients used in the dough (I wonder how duck eggs would fare in pasta?).

We both acknowledged, however, that despite how straightforward it was, we likely wouldn’t put in the extra effort to make something that could easily be picked up at the store. That said, I’m eager to look for recipes that involve different colour or flavour additives to the pasta – something unique that would wow guests at a dinner party, or would somehow spice up a fairly mundane dish.

I’m looking forward to our future pasta experiments!

Variety to Spare: Habesha

Mack tolerates my slight fixation with killing several birds with one stone. Borne out of my reliance on public transportation and walking as my main modes of travel, I do my best to make the most of my trips to areas of the city outside of my usual commute.

Following our jaunt to Seedy Sunday at the Alberta Avenue Community Hall, Mack didn’t flinch when I said there would be a planned stop at the nearby Habesha for lunch. I had read a review last year in the Journal about this new restaurant, and Liane Faulder has made mention of it several times over the last few months (Habesha now offers a vegetarian/vegan buffet on Wednesday nights). Though I’ve sampled Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisine before (at the Heritage Festival, for example), I’ve never before had a sit-down meal, so was eager to be exposed to a greater variety of food.

The interior of Habesha was larger than we expected from our external assessment. A long room was divided into a reception/coffee ceremony area, a second section dominated by the bar, and a third area functioned as the main dining room populated with a few tables. For a restaurant with many windows, the interior was surprisingly dim, so I was glad that our self-directed table hugged a window, with the option of being enclosed by a curtain fashioned on a curved bar that reminded me of a shower rod. There were two other parties present – and both embodied the relaxed, comfortable vibe of a restaurant that invited diners to stay awhile.

Mack looking relaxed and comfortable, and Twittering, of course

The owner (and sole waitress) brought us glasses of water and menus. We looked over the pages, divided into vegetarian, chicken and beef sections, and didn’t know where to begin. When she returned to take our order, we asked for her recommendations. She pointed us to the “combination” plates ($14.99 per person), and we decided to sample one beef and one vegetarian combination.

We weren’t sure how long our food would take, as it wasn’t clear whether or not our lone server was also the restaurant’s lone staff member, but thankfully, our dish arrived not too long after our order was placed. A circular platter lined with injera and dotted with multicolored meat, lentil and vegetable dishes was placed before us, accompanied by another small basket of injera. The soft, spongy bread is the main utensil in Ethiopian/Eritrean cuisine (similar in use to Indian chapatti), and explained the lack of forks and knives on our table.

Combination beef and vegetarian plate for two

Having tried injera several times now, I have to say I’m still not used to the sour taste of the bread, or to the fact that it is served cold. On the other hand, I immensely enjoyed the dishes themselves – the shiro wat (sun dried peas) were fantastic, with just a hint of spice, but so satisfying, and the fosolia – string bean and carrot mixture – was simple yet tasty. Mack liked the kei wot (prime beef stewed in spicy red sauce), though I know we both found most of the cubed meat rather tough. The spice level varied in the dishes (for example, the red lentil misser wot packed much more zing than the mellower yellow version), so the entire sample provided a nice spectrum of heat. In all, we found the combination plate was a great way to sample over ten different dishes, and with such a large portion size, ended up with enough food to take for lunch the next day.

When our server came back to check on us, she was taken aback by the food that remained. I couldn’t tell if she took the quantity of leftovers personally, but she mock-threatened not to pack it up for us unless we promised to eat it all. We did, but her guilt really wasn’t necessary, and left our experience a bit off because we hadn’t developed the necessary rapport for that kind of exchange.

Regardless of our end note, I would recommend Habesha as a good venue to experiment with Ethiopian/Eritrean cuisine, and like The Dawg Father before it, I am glad that there is one more restaurant to add to the “destination Alberta Avenue” list.

Habesha
9511 118 Avenue NW
(780) 474-2206
Monday-Thursday 4-10pm, Friday 4pm-2am, Saturday 12pm-2am, Sunday 12-11pm

The Cooking Chronicles: Thai Chicken Curry

After getting a positive result from the Pad Thai recipe in Trish Magwood’s Dish Entertains, my next marked page to try was the Thai Chicken Curry. I like that Magwood’s recipes are straightforward – Westernized, yes, but almost in a way that provide training wheels to facilitate eventually tackling a more authentic version.

This particular recipe called for six chicken breasts, which was way too much meat for the two of us even if both Mack and I intended on having the dish for lunch the next day. I cut down the quantity of chicken to four, and it worked out perfectly. I loved the smell of the simmering curry and coconut milk mixture; I’m sure coconut rice would have been a great pairing instead of the plain basmati that we had.

In the end, the teaspoon and a bit of curry paste wasn’t enough heat, and we could have done with a bit more onions, but those were our only complaints. This is a great one pot meal that is both quick and easy!

Thai Chicken Curry

Food Notes for March 30, 2009

  • The April edition of Avenue Edmonton has a few good reads, including an interview with Ron Berezan, the Urban Farmer, a tour of some of the city’s multicultural gems (May pointed out that the article lacks specific addresses for the locations listed; a fair point), and a short feature about Courtney and Brooke’s blog Take it and Like it. Congrats, ladies!
  • My latest article in Vue Weekly about TZiN Wine and Tapas Bar was published this week. Two things that didn’t fit in my piece which I wanted to share – Kelsey said that malbecs have been really popular over the past six weeks for no reason that she could gather, and when asked about her favourite drink, she responded: “Bubbles are always my favourite. Champagne is gorgeous, love it, it’s not always in my budget to do though. So there’s a lot of great proseccos and cavas. I find that often people will wait for an occasion or birthday or celebration of some sort. Random Tuesday for me. Bubbles make me happy.”
  • First Manor Cafe and now The Blue Pear: Brulee Blog mentioned another “recession special”  – The Blue Pear will be offering a “Baby Blue Pear” menu – $35 3-course menu for 5-6pm and Sunday reservations. No further details on their website yet.
  • An interesting story about some local restaurant groups like Original Joe’s expanding in spite of the recession.
  • The Dasee Group (which apparently owns Plaid Giraffe, among other businesses) will be opening a cafe featuring gelato and espresso at their 8004 Gateway Boulevard location in March. Keep an eye on their website for grand opening information.
  • Sorrentino’s kicks off their 18th annual Garlic Festival tomorrow. I know some in the city get excited for the event, but I’m not one of them.
  • Liane Faulder wrote an article about a study showing increased consumer spending at farmers’ markets over the past four years – up to $45 per visit in 2008 compared with $35 in 2004, while annual spending went up to $449 from $317. I just wish the study broke down where the funds were being spent, given that everything from jewellery to produce is sold at local markets.
  • If the Urban Spoon app for your iPhone wasn’t cool enough, how about Locavore 1.0? Find not only the farmers’ market nearest you (using GPS), but also what’s in season. Someone with an iPhone will have to tell me if it works in Canadian cities.
  • Speaking of eating locally, the Edible Prairie Online posted an “Alberta food inventory”, along with links to some helpful resources.
  • Andree over at Are You Gonna Eat That? reviewed some PC Blue Menu products, and showcases a nifty little slideshow gadget on her blog.

Professional but not Pretentious: Hardware Grill

While his parents were visiting Edmonton last week, Mack wanted to treat them to an experience unobtainable in Yellowknife, so we looked to the upper echelons of the city’s dining rafters and decided upon the Hardware Grill.

My one experience there several years ago was a positive one, but my memory of it is faint with the exception of an impression of excellent service. Being one of the priciest establishments in the city, however, meant that Hardware Grill is definitely a destination restaurant.

We walked in right on time for our early 5:30pm reservation, and were immediately greeted by a hostess and an attendant who relieved us of our coats and hats. We were led to a table in the main dining room with a view of the bar and the kitchen, angled in a way that we could also catch a glimpse of the stunning wine cellar. In terms of the interior, there isn’t much to say that would distinguish it from other wood-and-stone accented rooms, but their simple elegance speaks volumes about the type of experience the restaurant desires the customer to have.

Our waiter appeared with menus in hand, including a wine list with over 500 options. We were puzzled with a line at the bottom of the menu that indicated that “Hardware Grill prefers payment in cash or cheque”, as we weren’t sure how many diners would be carrying several hundred dollars in their wallet, but other than that, the menu was identical to the one found on the website. I must say that I love the detail in their menu – some restaurants choose not to list all of the accompanying sides and garnishes, but Hardware does, and I appreciate it.

The laundry list of appetizers we ordered was as follows: Martin the duck confit ($14), Patti the warm goat cheese ($14) fritters, Mack the bacon wrapped scallops ($18) and the chanterelle risotto ($14) for me. As for entrees, Martin selected the rack of lamb ($42), Patti the Alberta beef tenderloin ($48), Mack the porcini-crusted sea bass ($48) and I the soy-lacquered duck ($36). We were in for a lot of food.

Bread service involved a basket of a variety of slices including (yum) herbed cheese biscuits. Although the restaurant claims to bake the bread fresh twice daily, it reached us stone cold. I think Mack and I will have to start making a list of restaurants (besides chains such as the Olive Garden, East Side Mario’s and the Old Spaghetti Factory) that actually serve warm bread.

Bread service

When our starters arrived, we were all surprised at how much food we were given – portion sizes were much larger than what we originally anticipated. Patti loved the combination of flavours in her salad – with the interplay of hazelnuts, dates and beets complementing the warm goat cheese fritters nicely. Mack had been looking forward to the bacon-wrapped scallops all week, and they delivered. I’m sure he could have eaten several in place of his entree if allowed. My risotto was good (the aroma of the chanterelles was lovely), but between the pearl onions and the candied bacon, I felt the dish was a little lost, and that the Unheardof version was better.

Crispy Duck Leg Confit, Grilled Polenta Cake, Forest Mushrooms, with Port and Pomegranate Relish

Warm Goat Cheese Fritters, Baby Romaine with Pomegranate Vinaigrette, Medjool Dates, Toasted Hazel Nuts and Baby Beets

Bacon Wrapped Atlantic Scallops, English Pea Ravioli, Sweet Onion and Red Wine Reduction, Tomato Marmalade

Winter Chanterelle Risotto with Mascarpone and Asiago Cheese, with Port and Candied Bacon

Plates were cleared, more wine was consumed, and by no time, our entrees arrived. Both Martin and Patti’s meats were cooked to their expectation (even though Martin’s lamb looked to be a little on the raw side), and both were really happy with their dishes. Patti especially loved the beets, one of her favourite vegetables. Mack’s seafood medley continued with his sea bass and lobster-truffled potato crepes, the latter of which stood out for him. I was was thankful that the kitchen took the time to slice up my duck breast – it definitely made it easier to eat, but it seems I couldn’t consume it fast enough to prevent the meat from drying out. I loved the crisp layer of skin and fat – a little bit of indulgence goes a long way. I wasn’t sure about the butternut-pear hash, but it turned out the pear was a good choice, as the sweetness played off the savoury duck and venison shepherd’s pie well.

Demi Roasted Lamb Rack, Cassoulet Style White Beans with Duck, Lamb & Bacon, Served with Zucchini “Spaghetti”

Alberta Beef Tenderloin, Smoked Mashed Potatoes, Baby Beets, Carrots, Short Rib “Yorkie” and Horseradish Crème Fraiche

Porcini Crusted Sea Bass, Lobster-Truffled Potato Crêpes, White Corn-Arugula & Gulf Prawns, with Warm Portobello Vinaigrette

Soya Lacquered Duck Breast with Shepherds Pie, Pear-Butternut Hash, Pine Nuts and Fig-Balsamic Sauce

Though we all claimed to be full, we weren’t able to pass on dessert (encouraged by this statement on the menu, how could you blame us: “Just dive in and swim through the calories,
happy as a clam”). Martin and Patti split the warm gingerbread cake ($11), while Mack and I shared the classic profiteroles ($11). At the time, I mistakenly thought we would have been brought mini Italian doughnuts (beignets), but the cream puff-like sandwiches turned out to be a good choice. Served with espresso ice cream and hot fudge sauce, they were a not-too-decadent ending to our meal. Patti loved the gingerbread cake – it smelled and tasted like Christmas.

Classic Profiteroles

Warm Prairie Gingerbread Cake

I found the entire meal wonderfully paced. We were done our three courses by 8pm, but never felt rushed or like we were looking for the next course. Service was also commendable – our waiter was superb – personable, demonstrating a sense of humor that put us at ease, but never stepping over that boundary of becoming too informal. I realized that although Hardware Grill is labeled as a “fine dining” restaurant, without the pomp and circumstance of announcing each dish as it is delivered, the entire experience was entirely comfortable and never felt pretentious or stuffy.

While the Hardware Grill is not an off-the-cuff dining choice, it provided exactly what we were looking for that night – a high-end venue, great food, attentive service, and an experience that facilitated a memorable evening of conversation.

Hardware Grill
9698 Jasper Avenue, Edmonton
(780) 423-0969
Monday-Saturday 5pm-close

Bloomin’ Fail: Outback Steakhouse

Mack’s parents were in town for a week, and wanted to treat a few of us to dinner on Friday. Originally intending to snag a table at the Keg, the wait of eighty-five minutes ended up being too much to bear, so the group settled on the nearby Outback Steakhouse. The venue was likely a better choice anyway, as we had a two-year old amongst us.

The Outback had never occurred to me as a go-to choice for steak. Not that I am one to eat steak all that often anyway, but having passed by their three locations in the city more times that I can count, I can say that nothing has ever implored me to step inside their doors. Their set-up is very family and group oriented, in a casual way reminiscent of other run-of-the-mill chains like Boston Pizza and Kelsey’s. I liked the wooden fixtures and spot lighting, things I didn’t expect to find. For a Friday night, it actually was not busy at all – there were quite a few tables that sat empty throughout the night, probably not a good sign, even though a Western Canadian representative just reiterated how strong the Edmonton market is (Outback just closed nine locations in Ontario).

Menu-wise, crowd-pleasing entrees including steak, sandwiches, pastas and salads didn’t do much to make Outback unique in the sea of chains, with the exception of some silly dish names. Highlights include: Kookaburra Wings and Mac-A-Roo ’N Cheese. I have to think that the restaurant came to be during the Crocodile Dundee era, with someone assuming Americans would jump at the opportunity to immerse themselves in Aussie slang. That said, the prices were fairly reasonable – Mack’s 6oz. Sirloin with Grilled Lobster Tail Combo ran $24.95, while the 10oz. prime rib that Martin and Tom ordered was $22.75. I was craving a burger that night, and decided the All-In ($14.95) would best suit my needs, and customized it with bacon, swiss, lettuce and tomatoes. The Bloomin’ Onion ($8.75), described as being “hand-carved by a dedicated bloomologist” intrigued us after we found out that the chain sells over 15 million a year.

Our server showed herself to be promising, and didn’t waiver too much over the night, given that we were a fairly needy group. My biggest complaint had to do with the wait for our mains – though it likely had to do with the size of our group, I saw many late-seated tables around us receiving entrees even before our appetizer arrived.

The Bloomin’ Onion was just that – a giant onion that has been cut-up to look like a flower, battered, then deep-fried whole so that it retains its shape. As a result, the onion-ring like morsels also retain much of the grease that would normally be shaken off in a fryer basket, but boy, did it taste good. Mack disagreed though, and didn’t eat many more than a few petals. It is definitely meant to be shared amongst a large group though.

 

Bloomin’ Onion

Our entrees were nothing special – Mack thought his steak and lobster were unexceptional, and that the latter could have been much better. My burger was pretty standard, bordering on dry. Though it was my choice to decide on that dish, I kept thinking about how the burgers over at Red Robin’s are a much better comparable deal. I also couldn’t figure out what made the accompanying Aussie fries “Aussie”, besides a dash of what looked like pepper.

 

Sirloin with Grilled Lobster Tail

 

All-In Burger with Aussie Fries

Before we left, our waitress inundated us with eight 2-for-1 coupons, good for dinners between Monday and Thursdays. While it seemed like a nice gesture, there was a whiff of desperation to the hand-out. I’m not sure we’d be interested in returning anyway, even with the discount.

Outback Steakhouse
12832 137 Avenue NW, Edmonton (two other locations)
(780) 457-4702

Culinary Q & A with Chris Falconer

Occupation: I’ve just recently moved back to the city and picked up contract work at IKEA, where I was employed while I worked on my business degree, until I find a position in Human Resources to continue my career path.

What did you eat today?

Breakfast – banana and fiber one smoothie
Lunch – slow roasted chicken sandwich on homemade whole wheat bread, with a side of carrots and cauliflower.
Supper – braised lamb shank on a bed of green lentils at Culina.

What do you never eat?

I can’t think of any thing, besides balut maybe, that I wouldn’t eat.

What is your personal specialty?

Nice rustic loafs of bread and slow roasted pulled pork.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

Yogurt, apples, carrots, lettuce, kimchi, various mustards and hot sauces.

What is your weekday meal standby?

A roasted chicken or tuna salad.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

My KitchenAid stand mixer.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

It would be a meal of foods I have strong memories connected to. Starting with cinnamon french toast with real maple syrup – melted fontina cheese on a Montréal bagel – a bison burger with guacamole – tacos al pastor – sashimi – and finish with my mom’s chocolate chip cookies and a tall glass of milk.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Sushi Wasabi – the perfect place to indulge in my fish cravings.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

I’ve been away for a few years so I’m far from current when it comes to the finer things. Although I must say after having just enjoyed my first meal at Culina, that is definitely a spot people should hit up.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

Puebla, Mexico – where the mole was created. With every aspect of Mexican cuisine available on the street, I think I’d spend a day walking while eating anything and everything wrapped in fresh corn tortillas.

Chris blogs at Eating is the Hard Part.

Neighbourhood Bistro: The Dish

I consider The Dish Mack’s neighbourhood bistro. Just a two minute walk from his apartment, it’s surprising that last week was our first visit there together since he moved into the area a year ago. We needed a quick bite prior to a show on Tuesday, and craving their brand of comfort food as I wasn’t feeling too well, we headed out the door.

It was surprisingly busy for a random weekday, so I was a little worried that we would end up late for the theatre. However, service was actually quite brisk, and we made it out the door with time to spare. We both ordered off the specials sheet, seasonally tailored for cool winter evenings. I decided on the Deep Dish Quiche with a side of Creamy Tomato Basil Soup ($14), while Mack chose the Chicken Pot Pie and a side of Caesar Salad ($15).

I loved the interior of the restaurant the first time I set foot in it, and that affection hasn’t changed. The creaky wooden floors, the well-worn furniture, and the dim, intimate lighting sets the tone for a cozy and inviting space. And despite the risk of high noise levels (there isn’t any soft materials present to help with sound absorption), something about the small tables that draw patrons inward still provide a semblance of privacy for dining parties.

Our food arrived promptly, and I think I had dish envy as soon as I saw Mack’s pie. He let me steal a bite of the pie (and puff pastry), and it tasted as good as it looked. He didn’t care so much for the visually appealing nature of the diagonally-placed strips of pastry though, as he prefers his pie crust solidly attached to the dish.

Chicken Pot Pie

I thought the kitchen was a bit frugal on my quiche, but it was good all the same. The havarti, spinach, sundried tomato and caramelized red onion combined well with the light and airy baked egg, and I appreciated the finish of parmesan shards on top. The soup was a little on the tart side for my palate, but served its inner-warming purpose on my plate.

Deep Dish Quiche

I am looking forward to their menu change come spring, and to perhaps finally get a peek at their well-known “secret garden” patio.

The Dish
12417 Stony Plain Road NW
Edmonton, AB
(780) 488-6641

Food Notes for March 23, 2009

  • A new Funky Pickle Pizza is opening downtown at 10243 Jasper Avenue – it looks just about ready to open!
  • I passed by a new coffee shop called Hardwood Cafe on Jasper Avenue and 110 Street – I can’t find any information about it though.
  • The Bistro at both Sobeys Urban Fresh locations will be offering live music on Fridays and Saturdays from 5-9pm starting in April.
  • Marianne and Charles of Loosen Your Belt and Eat Around Edmonton visited the new coffee bar at the downtown Italian Centre (10878 95 Street). I’ll have to check it out soon – hopefully when the sidewalks are a little more dry.
  • A profile on Sonny Sung, Corporate Executive Chef of Sorrentino’s in Vue Weekly was informative – I can see how he scaled the ranks to lead one of Edmonton’s largest home grown chains: “I own the job, I don’t do the job. If something goes wrong, there has to be a reason. You figure out what’s wrong and you fix it.”
  • Liane Faulder will be on a CBC drive-home radio show every other Friday called “Eating in Edmonton”.
  • If you’re interested in becoming a vendor at an Alberta Farmers’ Market, think about attending a Brown Bag Presentation on March 26 at the Business Link.
  • Foodie Suz posted about her renovated kitchen this week, and introduced a website called Use Real Butter that is profiling kitchens of food bloggers – cool insight into a variety of beautiful cooking spaces!
  • Restaurant Widow, a food blogger out of Columbus, posed an interesting question this week – “Are women really treated different in restaurants? And why?”
  • More on Scanwiches this week – Gizmodo went behind-the-scenes of the website to discover how their pristine photos are taken, and via Grub Street, another Scanwich site apparently came first.
  • Via Urban Diner, a piece about a new high-tech restaurant in London called Inamo Restaurant. It features interactive touch-screen tables where patrons can order food, play games, and even order a cab!
  • It’s the Eater edition of Food Notes! First up, Alberta Avenue must be an up-and-coming area, because they’re getting their very own Taco del Mar (9405 118th Avenue)!

 

Yet another Taco del Mar…

  • A second outpost of Boualouang is in the works just down the street from its first storefront (10569 97 Street) in Chinatown.

 It looks a lot larger than the first restaurant

  • The best news of all: Starbucks in the Empire Building (10080 Jasper Ave) has an oven, which will start offering breakfast goodies in May.

“The heat is on May 5, 2009”