Category: food

No Hand-Tossed Dough: Tony’s Pizza Palace

After visiting the new Alberta Avenue farmers’ market, and prior to the artsScene Edmonton launch party, we stopped in at Tony’s Pizza Palace for dinner. One of my coworkers raved about Tony’s after lunch there some time ago, primarily because she could see the chefs hand-toss the dough like in the movies. As a result, I was most looking forward to this aspect of our dining experience.

Based on our initial assessment of the older stucco building, Tony’s seemed to be a family-friendly, neighbourhood pizza place. When we walked in, the décor seemed to match our judgment – dated, but comfortable, with wooden fixtures, clunky chairs and at the back, an open window into the kitchen, where we saw six busy hands and a huge oven behind them.

With the laid-back interior, we were surprised to find that the servers were dressed to the nines. The waiters all had crisp white shirts, black vests, and ties – a major disconnect with their surroundings and the patrons, who for the most part were rocking jeans or casual slacks. Though their service was friendly and efficient, I had to wonder if management confused the desired atmosphere of Tony’s with that of an upscale French bistro.

Interior

At any rate, once settled with our drinks, we perused the menu. We ignored the entrees and pasta dishes and headed straight for their namesake dishes. The “specials” (topping combinations pre-selected without room for substitution) were quite expensive (ranging from $14.25-$21.50), at least when compared with the price to customize our own pizza.

We asked our server how large the medium was, and at 12’’, decided that Mack was hungry enough to warrant ordering two of them, knowing that any leftovers would make a welcome brown bag lunch. I decided on the classic margherita pizza ($14.25 for medium), though tomatoes were absent, while Mack customized a medium pizza with Italian sausage, pepperoni and mushrooms ($15.25 for three toppings). Unfortunately, basil wasn’t a topping option, so I could not have customized my own margherita.

While awaiting our meal, I anxiously watched the kitchen window and waited for the dough-tossing to begin. Unfortunately, my patience went unrewarded, and we did not see a single toss over the course of our evening. We should have asked if they had changed their policy, but our food was delivered shortly and I neglected to do so.

The pizzas were indeed generously-sized, molded perfectly to fit circular pan underneath. Mack noted the crust – not at all greasy and thin but sturdy – he was able to pick up a slice to be eaten without utensils. He much preferred this to its Neapolitan sibling – the chewy, and airy type propagated by Famoso, while I disagreed. The margherita, with its very basic cheese and basil topping, let the crust shine. Mack’s custom pizza, on the other hand, was loaded with meat and mushrooms, and despite the less-than-crispy pepperoni, he enjoyed it. I should also note that the sauce was not overpowering – sometimes a heavy hand is used to distribute the base, but these pizzas had just the right amount of sauce.

Margherita Pizza

Three-topping PIzza with Sausage, Pepperoni and Mushrooms

The isolated location of Tony’s would prevent it from becoming a regular haunt for me, particularly when the downtown location of Famoso, with their lovely charred and chewy crust, is so much more central. But I was happy to have tried it, even without the free pizza tossing entertainment.

Tony’s Pizza Palace
9605 111 Avenue NW
(780) 424-8777
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:30pm; Dinner: Monday-Thursday 4:30-10pm, Friday 4:30pm-midnight, Saturday 2:30pm-midnight, Sunday 4:30-10:30pm

Alberta Avenue Farmers’ Market Opening Day

While we were in DC, on our way back to our hotel, we stumbled upon a FRESHFARM Market, one of four run during the week in different areas of the city. Situated in a high-traffic area in a small park next to a Metro stop, a hospital, and smack dab in the middle of George Washington University campus, it was a great location. And though the vendors numbered only around a dozen, what they offered was ideal for students, commuters, and residents to pick up en route to their homes. There were two produce vendors, a baker, a bison farmer, a poultry farmer, and a few prepared food vendors – not a comprehensive group, but definitely enough variety to satisfy most shoppers.

Foggy Bottom Farmers’ Market

I think there need to be more neighbourhood-based markets in Edmonton, particularly on weekdays so a “trip to the market” can simply be a brief stop on the way home, instead of a special weekend trip.

As such, I was really happy to learn that Alberta Avenue would be getting a year-round farmers’ market on Thursdays beginning May 28, from 2-7pm at the Alberta Avenue Community Hall (93 Street & 118 Avenue). While I don’t reside in that neighbourhood, I wanted to check out the opening day and be a part of the excitement.

Welcome!

Around 30 vendors were signed up to showcase their wares today, though more are expected to join as the weeks progress. Craft vendors were concentrated inside the hall, while the majority of the food vendors were outside.

Inside the Community Centre

Outdoor vendors

Though I like to browse crafts now and then, the draw of farmers’ markets for me is the food. Dip Sea Chicks (who have stalls in both the City Centre and Strathcona markets) was the only familiar vendor to me, but there were others selling prepared food as well. Unfortunately, there wasn’t a produce or meat vendor to be seen.

I have a feeling this was just a very muffled start to what will become a very successful addition to the growing list of initiatives spearheaded by the Alberta Avenue community. The grassroots effectiveness of the neighbourhood continues to amaze me, and I have no doubt this endeavour will blossom with time. Bravo to the community for getting this off the ground!

Check out the market every Thursday from 2-7pm at 93 Street & 118 Avenue.

Off the Beaten Path: Oriental Veggie House

I took it upon myself to accompany a visiting consultant for lunch, and having worked with her over several months, thought I knew her well enough to suggest we try a new place within walking distance of the office. As it was one of those gloriously sunny spring days, I thought the brisk walk would do us both good, a refreshing change from the morning long fluorescent-lit meeting.

On Chowhound, the two most frequent responses to the question, “Where can I get good vegetarian/vegan fare?” is Padmanadi and Oriental Veggie House (both lean heavily on soy and taro root products to create a “meat”-like texture). I had been to the former for their monthly buffet, and was curious to see what the latter had in store.

We reached the restaurant just after noon, and found it empty on a Friday. Though that wasn’t a good sign, the friendly proprietor quickly greeted us and led us to a table. The space was larger than I had expected from the outside, and filled with natural light from a bank of windows. Décor was minimal, and though I pointed out to my dining companion that the vinyl tablecloth was in dire need of replacement, our surroundings were pleasant enough.

The menu, printed in an attractive font and bound on thick cardstock, was a pleasant alternative to the large plastic-encased folders typically found at Asian restaurants. Though the combination for two ($28.50 for the specified soup, appetizer, and two entrees) looked interesting, my companion didn’t like the chosen dishes. So instead, we put together our own meal that included a seaweed and tofu soup ($5.95), shredded veggie tofu wrap ($5.95), country style tofu ($8.95) and rice noodles with veggie seafood ($9.50). We opted not to order rice due to the steep $5 charge.

Menu

Over the course of our meal, two other parties joined us, but for a restaurant in the Chinatown area with free parking, it was much too quiet. The upside to this of course, was quick service. We received our first course soon after putting in our order. As we had ordered the small, I was expecting a portion meant for an individual. Instead, we were confronted by a bowl that yielded each of us three servings, brimming with contrasting textures of crunchy seaweed, silky tofu, and pea poppers. The broth was not overpowered by seaweed flavour though, and I found the mildness to be the perfect way to start off the meal.

Seaweed and Tofu Soup

The intriguing tofu wraps were next – I ordered them purely based on the concept, thinking it would be the healthy equivalent of a spring roll. It turns out tough bean curd was used to enfold shredded carrots and bean sprouts, among other vegetables, then pan-fried. The wraps were actually quite greasy, and without the crunch that I was hoping for.

Shredded Veggie Tofu Wraps

The next two dishes came fast and furious, and we struggled to keep up. The country style tofu was reminiscent of a dish that could be ordered at most Chinese eateries serving more traditional fare. Filled with plump cubes of tofu and vegetables, we both wished we had ordered the rice after all – rice would have been the perfect way to soak up the delicious sweetness of the sauce. The rice noodles in our second entree were moist and cooked well, but I wasn’t too fond of the overly chewy “seafood”.

Country Style Tofu

Rice Noodles with Seafood

Our lunch totalled about $40 (with a $3 pot of tea), definitely not inexpensive when compared with other area establishments. The owner did point out their two chest freezers containing products that customers could take home to prepare themselves. For example, a popular item was their faux chicken.

Oriental Veggie House did provide an interesting alternative to the usual Asian cuisine, and is worth a try if you’re looking for something different.

Oriental Veggie House
10586 100 Street NW
(780) 424-0463

Food Notes for May 25, 2009

Mack and I had a great time in DC! And though I’d rather be there, at least the weather warmed up in Edmonton while we were away! I’ll slowly be making my way through recapping the trip (Mack’s still uploading all the photos as I write this), but in the meantime, I have an abbreviated version of notes to share (I purposely took a break from reading blogs while on vacation):

  • Edmonton has a new farmers’ market! This Thursday, May 28 will see the dawn of the year-round Alberta Avenue Farmers’ Market at 93 Street and 118 Avenue. Over 30 vendors are expected in this first week, with the list to grow in coming months. I’d love to see more community and neighbourhood-based markets, so this is a great start. More information here.
  • See Magazine’s Best of Edmonton results came out this week. Their annual poll covers more than just food, but of course, that’s the section that interested me the most. Like the Golden Forks, I was surprised to see The Lingnan and The King and I voted Best Chinese and Best Thai, respectively, but it was good to see Blue Plate Diner and Hardware Grill come out on top for Best Brunch and Best High-End Dining.
  • The Edible Prairie wrote about the upcoming Asparagus Festival taking place at Edgar Farms on May 30 & 31, one of several events that are a part of Country Drive, an event that encourages exploration of rural Alberta.
  • In recognition of National Hunger Awareness Day on June 2, the Edmonton Food Bank (11508 120 Street) will be screening the film Affirming Life and Diversity: Rural Image and Voices on Food Sovereignty. RSVP to Tamara by May 29 at 780-425-2133. Also, between June 2-12, any monetary donations made to the Food Bank will be matched, dollar-for-dollar, by Kraft (up to $150,000 across Canada) – consider donating  in June.
  • Two articles from the Journal this past week are worth a read – Liane’s “neighbourhood food tours” series continues with a piece on Little Lebanon, and an interview with Ocean Odyssey Inland’s Pat Batten.
  • Vue had a piece covering the new Boualouang space – the owner is happy about having a larger kitchen.
  • For the plane ride to DC, I picked up the latest issue of Food Network Magazine. It’s not a bad read, filled with recipes from the network’s personalities and light features (like a breakdown of Ina Garten’s new kitchen, and current trends in the food world – like marriages in fast food restaurants). I wouldn’t subscribe to it, but I’d consider buying a copy now and then.

Food Notes for May 18, 2009

I won’t be blogging while in Washington, but if you want to keep up with what we’re up to, check out Mack’s blog, Flickr photo stream, or Twitter feed. I do have some notes to share this week though:

  • Vue Weekly released the results of the 2009 Golden Forks awards this week. Categories include best restaurants, best dishes, and other. Some consistent winners continue to baffle me: Creperie for most romantic,  Route 99 for breakfast (I love their poutine, but their breakfast offerings are pretty weak), Lingnan for Chinese (although I suppose the category didn’t specify “authentic Chinese”).
  • My cover article on how some restaurants are coping with the economic downturn was also published this week. Thanks everyone for your kind comments over the past few days!
  • Liane has been really pushing Teddy’s – it was featured in her piece about the city’s best sandwiches back in April, while its desserts were highlighted this past week. Maybe it’s my perception, but those ads with the woman in the leopard print dress probably give me the wrong impression about the place. That and the fact that the stodgy brown building looks a bit foreboding from the outside.
  • The latest edition of City Palate mentioned a fairly new restaurant called Easy Burger and Bar, located at 11172 – 87 Avenue (the old Windsor Pub, which was shut down for health violations).
  • Chris over at Eating is the Hard Part posted about Harvey’s upcoming “free hamburger day” on May 24. Brulee Blog also has a great compilation of deals to be had.
  • Apparently the Calgary Farmers’ Market is considering becoming a for-profit organization. A great post on where this might lead.
  • The NYT has a great article about corporations attempting to jump on the local food bandwagon.
  • I’m still reeling from the announcement that Frank Bruni will be leaving his food revising post at the Times in August. On the bright side, I’m loving all of the coverage, and the chatter about who might replace him.
  • Our version of pre-theatre dinner on Thursday was Oodle Noodle on Whyte. We needed a quick dinner preceding wine and cheese night at the Varscona for our first show as Teatro la Quindicina subscribers. Mack ordered his usual combo box while I decided to try something new – the penang laksa. While the creamy coconut sauce was fragrant and tasty, I wished the noodles would have soaked it up a little better.

 

Combo Box and Penang Laksa boxes

  • I tried the new Tim Hortons iced coffee ($1.39 for a small) over the weekend. While it isn’t bad, and cheaper than the iced brewed coffee from Starbucks, I would still head to Starbucks on most days.

 

Tim Hortons’ Iced Coffee

  • Mack and I took his grandma out to the Arbour Restaurant at Rutherford House yesterday to celebrate her birthday (I’ve written about it before). As a tea lover, we thought she’d love their selection of teas, in addition to their small dessert plates. We ended up with probably too much to eat, but it was a lovely meal nonetheless. Both Grandma Male and I had their turkey pot pie ($13), while Mack opted for their sandwich of choice, a ham and swiss on brioche bread ($11). For dessert, Mack and I shared the afternoon scone plate ($12 for two), which included a pot of tea, mostly because I had a hankering for their always delicious raspberry butter. Mack’s grandma opted for the chocolate pot du creme ($6), which she enjoyed as well. If you’ve never been, I’d recommend the Arbour Restaurant as an alternative to your usual Sunday brunch standby.

Turkey Pot Pie

Ham and Swiss Sandwich with Broccoli Soup

Chocolate Pot du Creme (in the background) and Afternoon Scone Plate for Two

Scone with Raspberry Butter and Monk’s Blend tea (I love their delicate china!)

Crumb Explosion: Van Loc

I needed a quick lunch stop en route to Lucky 97 for a few groceries, so decided to take the opportunity to visit Van Loc in Chinatown.

My usual banh mi haunt is Nhon Hoa 2 on 97th Street, but after two recent reviews in Vue and the Journal, I was curious to see what Van Loc had to offer, as both pieces noted that the baguettes they used were second to none.

I stopped in just after noon, and it was clear they were in the middle of their lunch rush – customers continuously filtered in for take out orders. The space was definitely larger than either Nhon Hoa or Kim Tuyet, and its predominantly white interior gleamed even brighter with the natural light provided by the bank of windows. I was happy to see there were three tables to allow for eating in, though they probably could use a good scrubbing (the disadvantage of having white furniture).

I looked at the menu briefly, but already knew I wanted my usual variety, the shredded pork banh mi ($3.50). After a brief wait, I received my sandwich in a white paper submarine bag. The sandwich I was given definitely beats their competitors in the size category. The amount of cilantro, pickled carrots and cucumber included also seemed more generous than others I’d received. As for the bread, I actually found it to be the weak link of the sandwich – it had been over-toasted to the point of being too hard, making it a little difficult to eat (and definitely messy; the requisite crumb explosions made me thankful I was eating alone).

Shredded Pork Banh Mi

As the other elements of the sandwich were good, I’d definitely be willing to give Van Loc another try, with perhaps a request to keep the toasting time down to a minimum.

Van Loc
10648 98 Street NW
(780) 413-8887

City Market Opening Day!

I’ve been looking forward to the May 16 City Market kick-off for a while – there’s nothing like starting off your weekend with an outdoor stroll through the core, surrounded by the optimism of spring.

Market Day!

We arrived just after noon, and ran into Paula, who told us that opening ceremonies had taken place earlier that morning (you can see her photos here). Mayor Mandel was even on hand to welcome patrons to the ever-expanding market, which this year will play host to 95 different vendors.

It was great to see that organizers were finally able to shut down 102 Street to allow for pedestrian-only traffic. It seems they also put out more tables and chairs, great for those needing a seat to eat their vendor-gleaned goodies.

104th Street

A stiltwalker and juggler made it even more festive

As we are departing for our vacation on Monday, we couldn’t stock up on too much. That said, as it is only mid-May, there wasn’t much fresh produce available anyway, save some winter vegetables and hot greenhouse bounty. The market featured mostly non-produce vendors, including those selling bedding plants, crafts, and prepared foods. I was happy to see En Sante Winery out, as well as Happy Camel – both of which we will patronize another day.

Buying tomatoes from Doef’s Greenhouses

We came across a booth for Original Fare and Keep Edmonton Original – while we are very familiar with both groups, we didn’t know about their VIP card program. After a VIP card holder has dined at an Original Fare restaurant, it is swiped, and at the end of the year, the accumulated “points” are converted to cash, and sent to the card holder in the form of a gift certificate that can be redeemed at any of the restaurants. We signed up on the spot. There is a link to the VIP card on the website, but it doesn’t seem to allow new registrants – I hope they add this function to their website.

We read on the Belua Designs blog that Fremly would be at the market today, so we brought Netty along for the ride for a photo opportunity. Unfortunately, Fremly had to stay behind today, but Netty was able to take a picture with all of the monsters that were still looking for a home.

Netty at the market

We also took the opportunity to drop off our contribution to the newly-established Greens, Eggs and Ham CSA. Mary Ellen clarified how it works – the $250 or $500 contribution to allow the farm to expand is essentially a deposit, so whatever I pick up from her stand that week at the market will simply be deducted from my initial contribution. If you frequent their booth anyway, why not consider supporting the farm even further? Further information here.

Netty stands guard over our duck eggs

The City Market is open rain or shine every Saturday until October 10. See you there!

Solid Choice: Back Home Fish & Chips

On a lazy weekend when I didn’t feel inspired to cook, Mack and I decided to finally patronize Back Home Fish & Chips, just down the street from his apartment. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve been tempted by the wafting, intoxicating smell of good ol’ grease when passing by, but the circumstance to visit them didn’t present itself until now.

 Back Home Fish and Chips

The restaurant always looked so quaint from the outside, with their checkered tablecloths and large bank of windows letting in a healthy amount of natural light. When we walked in, we found it to be much the same as our external impression, and found a seat in a cozy booth. The rest of the diners in Back Home seemed to be made up of regulars, which didn’t surprise me. I find that most stalwart fish and chip fans will have one joint they believe to have the “best” product above all others in the city, and deign to listen to any other opinions (you would be hard pressed, for example, to convince my parents that anything other than Joey’s Only would offer them the quality and value for their dollar).

Menus

Our efficient waitress brought us menus and took our drink orders straightaway. While the menu did offer their namesake dish, they unfortunately did not offer a choice of fish – haddock was the only type available. On the bright side, I was surprised to find all types of seafood listed, from calamari to clams to cod tongues and cheeks. Their prices were fairly reasonable, meaning we probably could have split an appetizer without breaking the bank. We decided in the end to just proceed to the main course; I opted for the small fish and chips ($11.95), which contained three pieces of fish, while Mack was easily swayed by the shrimp and chips ($15.95).

Our dishes arrived in speedy fashion, helped by the fact that we were the only ones who put in an order at that point. Though both my fish and fries were a bit dark (perhaps signalling a need to change the oil), both for the most part were crispy. The kitchen definitely did not scrimp on portion sizes, and even with their smallest plate, I struggled to finish my meal. The light batter concealed an flaky and moist fish, fork tender underneath its shell. Mack also enjoyed his shrimp, which were flavourful and satisfying.

Small Fish and Chips

Shrimp and Chips

Final verdict: while our experience wasn’t unexceptional, it wasn’t particularly memorable either. So if a fish and chip craving were to hit us, we wouldn’t hesitate to return, but Back Home won’t become a destination restaurant either.

Back Home Fish & Chips
12323 Stony Plain Road NW
(780) 451-7871
Monday-Thursday 11:30am-9:30pm, Friday 11:30am-10pm, Saturday noon-9:30pm, Sunday noon-8pm

Culinary Q & A with Brittney Le Blanc

Occupation: I work in the newsroom for 630CHED/iNews880. I write, report, and do web site stuff. Basically, if it’s in the newsroom… I probably do it at one point or another. I also run the @iNews880 Twitter account.

What did you eat today?

So far? Just two cups of hot chocolate. I’ve had my vanilla yogurt sitting beside me at work for about 4 hours now… so, hold on one second. Okay, I’ve had two cups of hot chocolate and a spoonful of vanilla yogurt.

What do you never eat?

I don’t ever eat nuts or peanuts due to allergies. But I also try to never eat onions or potatoes. I have a hate for green onions which I find places tend to add onto EVERYTHING. It’s not a welcome surprise on my plate.

What is your personal specialty?

I can cook a mean Mu Shu spin off. I use chicken instead of pork and add peppers, mushrooms, and rice noodles.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

Ketchup. Which goes perfectly with my weekday meal standbys.

What is your weekday meal standby?

Either Chicken Nuggets, Fries, and Green Beans or Mac and Cheese. Both easy and fairly cheap.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

My dishwashing brush. I hate washing dishes, but don’t have a dishwasher… this handy brush is efficient and allows me not to touch gross dishwater.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Chicken Mushroom Lasagna, steamed broccoli and cauliflower, a slice of carrot cake (without nuts) and a glass of ice wine. Alternatively, a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and a glass of milk. The world ends tomorrow — if I die from my allergies, it’s only speeding the process.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Probably the southside location of Silcilian Pasta Kitchen. My family discovered it a few years back and we go there for family dinners from time to time.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

I would have to say the Bul Go Gi House. I’ve been going since I was a little girl. Service is almost always fast and friendly, and the food is absolutely delicious!

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I’ve never given it much thought. Maybe I’d go to Hell’s Kitchen… I would order scallops and risotto. Those always seem so difficult to cook, but I’d love to try the finished product.

Follow Brittney on Twitter here.

Food Notes for May 11, 2009

In exactly a week, I’ll be in D.C. with Mack! So looking forward to a vacation long overdue. In the meantime, I have some notes to share:

  • It seems Ching’s Asian Kitchen and Dim Bar (10154 100 Street) was not meant to last – we caught a sign taped up on its door thanking customers for their patronage.
  • Boualouang has relocated to their revamped, larger space down the block! Their new address is 10569-97 Street.
  • Mack and I swung by La Piazza Dasee (8004 Gateway Boulevard) over the weekend, and we both wondered why they bothered opening at all – nearly half of the store  (and all of the cafe) is still under active construction. Perhaps check them out in a few weeks to see how they’ve progressed.
  • If you were waiting for another opportunity to try out Eric Ng’s veggie donair (I tried one back in November), you’ll have it on May 12.
  • There are so many opportunities to get involved in the local food system right now. Take a survey about how committed you are about buying local over at the Greater Edmonton Alliance website (until May 15), sign up for the Good Food Project, or support the newest Community Supported Agriculture endeavour in Edmonton, Greens Eggs & Ham.
  • The Journal wrote about the coffee cupping experience at Transcend over the weekend. It’s sure to just heighten the demand for their monthly tastings. You can read about the experience Mack and I had last July here and here.
  • Some of the city’s premiere cake creators are featured in an article in Avenue Magazine this month.
  • Congrats to the marketing team at NAIT for their national award from the Canadian Public Relations Society in the social media category. They are being recognized for their innovative approach in engaging the public during Chef Rob Feenie’s whirlwind time in Edmonton.
  • I was following the live tweets from the James Beard Awards last week, but it seems I only caught the tail end. The Edible Prairie wrote about Jennifer McLaglan, this year’s winner for Best Cookbook, Fat: an Appreciation for a Misunderstood Ingredient with Recipes.
  • This is too cool: the green pizza box of the future.
  • I prefer Pagolac’s southside location to their Chinatown haunt, and I was reminded why when I stopped by for lunch last week. I ordered my usual dish (medium rare beef), and was presented with a bowl of lukewarm soup. It was so mild in temperature that the beef didn’t have the opportunity to lose its pink hue. I’ll be sticking to the southside branch in the future.

Pho from Pagolac

  • There’s nothing like kicking off the warm weather with Fat Franks, eaten fresh off the grill outdoors. Yum!

My Jumbo Dog (the toasted bun makes all the difference)

Mack is happy with his Cheese Dog

  • It also just doesn’t seem like summer without an iced brewed coffee from Starbucks, and I was able to have my first of the season last week. I have to remember to get a shot of sweetener in it the next time I order it though!

Ah, a coffee and a book out on the patio