Category: food

Food Notes for March 29, 2010

It’s a little ironic that the weekend I was finally inspired to write about the food I ate in Banff and Canmore five months ago also happened to be the weekend where Mack and I ended up in Banff again. So – stay tuned for more Banff eats. On to this week’s food notes:

  • Sorrentino’s kicks off their 19th annual Garlic Festival on April 1, and features black garlic this year. Funds raised from support a prostate health campaign.
  • Tickets for this year’s Indulgence: a Canadian Epic of Food and Wine, go on sale after March 30 April 30. Call the Junior League of Edmonton at 780-433-9739. Possibly the best $50 you’ll ever spend on food and wine in Edmonton!
  • On April 15, Trinity United Church (8810 Meadowlark Road) will be hosting a food, wine and beer tasting that showcases locally-owned food businesses and Albertan and Canadian-produced products (including Leva, The Dish, Alley Kat and en Sante). They will also be screening the Vancouver produced documentary, Tableland. Tickets are $30 (only sold in advance), and all proceeds go to support the Canadian Food Grains Bank. Contact Debbie Hubbard for tickets by e-mail or phone 780-458-9286.
  • Kerstin’s Chocolates is hosting another Easter egg hunt for chocolate prizes, but this time,you’ll have to look for “four digital eggs inside four photographs from France recently posted to our blog. Find all of these digital Easter eggs by clicking on the pictures and looking closely at the larger versions of each photo, then figure what the letters on the eggs spell (in French!).” Claim your prize between March 30 and April 3, while supplies last.
  • Looking for a grocery delivery service that specializes in local food? The Good Food Box is onto it’s second year, and is currently accepting customers for delivery to start in April.
  • If you’re looking for something with a little less commitment, Locavoria is a good option. I’ve been on their mailing list for quite a while, and they’ve expanded their product line considerably. You have the option of only ordering what you want, so for smaller households, or for those just looking to slowly shift their dollars, it’s worth exploring. E-mail Locavoria here.
  • Liane wrote that the Bistro Praha that was due to open this spring in one of the Icon Towers will be delayed – it’s almost expected that restaurants won’t open on time, so it’s not really a surprise.
  • On the topic of closures: The Lingnan is closed for renovations from March 29 to April 29. You’ll have to get your Amy’s chicken fix at lunch!
  • Looks like Calgary is following in the footsteps of Edmonton’s successful Grilled Cheese Olympics a few weeks back, with Janice Beaton kicking off her own competition.
  • Oh yes, there is another food blog in Edmonton – welcome Lillian, author of Beyond Umami to the fray (Lillian was at the Foodie Meetup earlier this month).
  • Chris blogged about his “5 bagel throwdown” – that’s an awful lot of chewing!
  • Though I was sceptical (and still am, to some degree) of Hellmann’s Eat Real, Eat Local campaign that they launched last year, it looks like they are continuing to take steps for the better – they announced two weeks ago that their 1/2 the fat mayonnaise dressing will be made with Canadian free-run eggs.
  • It’s probably my love of West Wing that makes me so delighted to read acronyms like FLOTUS being thrown around like everyday language, but I’m loving Eater’s chronicling of the First Lady’s food tour of NY.
  • Speaking of New York, have you checked out NBC NY’s new food website, Feast? It’s nicely laid out, with some pretty good content to boot (an interview with Thomas Keller here and here), but what’s neat on first glance to me is Feast Rank: an algorithm that “will evolve to ensure that it represents accurately and distinctly the landscape of the web and the way people use their digital spaces to access and consume restaurant information.” Grand intensions, no?
  • Fascinated, in a train wreck kind of way about competitive eating contests? You’re not alone – it’s a rising “sport” in America.
  • Yes, Julia Child is getting another book deal: “Houghton Mifflin Harcourt will publish As Always Julia, a book of letters between Julia Child and her agent Avis DeVoto, this fall.”
  • Has anyone been watching Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution? I only managed to catch the first episode so far, but it looks like an entertaining, if not eye-opening program. If you can’t get enough of Jamie, watch his inspiring TED talk.
  • Watch for another Good Earth Cafe in the next couple of weeks to open up in Edmonton City Centre.

 

Good Earth Cafe

  • I poked my head inside the new Sweeties Cafe on Rice Howard Way (10141 100A Street) and it looks promising, with cases of sweets and comfortable leather chairs to enjoy an afternoon coffee. I’ll have to come back to check it out on a different day.

 

Sweeties Cafe

  • On our way back to Edmonton, we stopped at Crate and Barrel, which I couldn’t get enough of when we were in New York a few years back. Apparently, they’re talking about opening one in Edmonton, but the clerk wasn’t able to say when or where. I could spend a lot of money in their kitchen wares section, or at least, a lot of time, marvelling over the walls of single-use gadgets. My favourite:

 

An individual gravy boat, too cute!

  • Crate and Barrel is located in Southcentre Mall, Calgary’s newest and swankiest shopping centre. Not only do they have beautiful water features and a huge food court equipped with LCDs and pretty light fixtures, but they also have a sports viewing area, complete with comfy chairs (with cupholders!).

At Southcentre Mall

For the Love of Sandwiches: Wild Flour Bakery and Valbella Gourmet Foods

Our brief escape to the Rockies last October also involved less extravagant meals than The Bison. First up: Wild Flour Bakery, a casual café after my own heart – bright and cheery, and filled with the alluring aroma of fresh bread, it looked great at first glance. Mack had a not-so-positive experience there in the past, but was eager to see if they could make amends this time.

Their lunch menu consisted primarily of sandwiches, served on fresh house-made bread. Mack’s choice of the aged cheddar sandwich was unimpressive – he remarked that he loved the cheese and the bread, but he was expecting more from the combination. And though I enjoyed my sandwich, I thought the melted Swiss overwhelmed the delicate Valebella prosciutto.

Aged Cheddar Sandwich

 Swiss and Prosciutto Sandwich

We fared better with our choice of hot beverages. My London Fog (something I don’t have often, but the Earl Grey-milk mixture sounded good on a chilly afternoon) was good, and Mack’s Mexican hot chocolate was appropriately spiced.

Latte art!

Something we didn’t get a chance to order was dessert (though the chocolate torte looked mighty tempting) – so perhaps our next visit will concentrate only on sweets.

On the way back to Edmonton, we stopped in Canmore for a bite to eat at Valbella Gourmet Foods. I am familiar with them primarily through their bacon and sausages sold through Sunterra, but was curious to see their whole range of products.

The deli counter at Valbella

If we only had a cooler, I would have definitely stocked up

As for the small cafe that served only a handful of items, it was a revolving door of customers. They seemed to have their share of regulars from nearby construction or trades sites, very similar to the usual lunchtime crowd at The Italian Bakery or Handy Bakery. So – we ordered what everyone else ordered – the special that featured a few different types of meat.

Sandwich counter

While I typically prefer my sandwiches toasted or warmed in some way, the fresh bread, still crisp, made up for this somewhat. And the assortment of meat was a good opportunity to try a bit of everything.

Valbella special sandwich

If you’re passing through Canmore (with a cooler!) be sure to stop by for some top-quality meats. While the sandwich was good – the meat case is where it’s at.

Wild Flour Bakery
211 Bear Street, Banff, AB
(403) 760-5074
Open everyday from 8am-5pm

Valbella Gourmet Foods
104 Elk Run Boulevard, Canmore, AB
(403) 678-4109
Monday-Friday 8am-6pm, Saturday 9am-5pm, closed Sundays

Upscale Comfort: The Bison

While I start out with good intentions to post about eating experiences soon after they happen, sometimes I fail. Our weekend getaway to the mountains last October was one such instance. So – mostly to help maintain my own food memory, here are a few recaps of what we ate.

Ever since my introduction to The Bison by way of Andree’s post, I have been intrigued about their sustainable approach to food. When Mack asked me for restaurant recommendations for his trip to Banff two years ago, the Bison was at the top of my list. His enjoyable visit further heightened my desire to experience it myself.

We arrived a little early for our 7:30pm reservation, and with our table not yet ready, decided to relax with some wine in the lounge downstairs. It turned out we just missed their happy hour promotion on wine (40% off bottles, from 4-7pm), but we did think it was neat that patrons were allowed to bring the discounted bottle purchased in the lounge with them into the formal dining room upstairs.

Wine while waiting

I was surprised to see that the lounge (which has been open since February 2009) had a different menu than the dining room. With savoury cheese fondues and cheese and charcuterie plates, we had to resist the temptation to simply stay on in the lounge. More than variety though, the more casual lounge fare also enables the chef to exhibit his versatility in the kitchen – for example, whole pigs are purchased and used at The Bison, and all charcuterie served is house-made.

View from the bar

We eventually made our way upstairs, into a dimly-lit room that was darkened further as our evening progressed. I loved many things about the space, including the polished concrete floor and the warm furniture, while the open kitchen was Mack’s favourite element. However, as all of the servers notably wore denim, I wasn’t sure what the intended atmosphere was – the casual dress seemed to clash with the décor.

Tone confusion notwithstanding, everything else was great. I’ve never seen a list of suppliers as detailed, three pages with a paragraph devoted to each of the local farms who provide The Bison with their produce and proteins. Reading about the farmers really helps the diner connect with the restaurant in a larger context, and recognize all of the people involved in bringing the meal to the table.

Being a sucker for French onion soup meant I wouldn’t consider anything else as an appetizer once I saw the restaurant’s bison version on the menu. Mack’s fondness of carnival food was appeased with Bison’s gourmet corn dogs, made with lamb. For my entrée, I continued the theme of ordering namesake dishes and selected the caramelized onion, smoked bison, edamame and fresh mozzarella pizza (which is what Mack ordered on his previous visit), and Mack decided on beef.

Needless to say, Mack loved his appetizer. If I had wanted more than a bite of the tender lamb lightly battered just so, I’m sure I would have had to pry it out of his hands. As for my French onion soup, I think it should have been listed with a warning sign next to it – the huge serving was so rich that I struggled to finish it, to the point where I barely touched my entrée.

Lamb corn dogs!

Bison onion soup

Mack’s steak was perfectly cooked, served with a generous amount of goat cheese, but we both wondered at the use of asparagus out of season. The pizza was also great – I loved the novelty of edamame, and the salty bite of the cured bison.

Mack’s steak (for the life of us, we can’t remember what cut)

Caramelized onion, smoked bison, edamame, fresh mozzarella pizza

Service was good – we were never left wanting for anything, and felt well taken care of in the hands of our competent server. After our experience, a stop at The Bison (in particular, the lounge!) will be a necessity the next time we visit Banff.

The Bison
208 Bear Street
(403) 762-5550

Mayfield Dinner Theatre: “Dial ‘M’ for Murder”

For Christmas last year, Mack, Thom and I gave Grandma Male a ticket to an upcoming show at the Mayfield Dinner Theatre. None of us had been before, but with our collective love of theatre and food, we thought it would be something fun to experience together for the first time.

Mayfield Dinner Theatre

The show we agreed on was Dial ‘M’ for Murder, a play made famous by Alfred Hitchcock, that happened to star two of my favourite Teatro la Quindicina actors – Jeff Haslam and Mark Meer. Tickets ranged from $55.99 to $79.99, which seemed pricey to me at the outset, but factoring in the convenience of dinner and entertainment in the same venue took the edge off somewhat. As I hadn’t been to the theatre before, I didn’t have any idea what constituted a good seat. I relied extensively on the opinion of the ticket agent, and thankfully, she steered us to a pretty good seat.

Our view of the stage, from a raised booth

When I purchased the tickets, I was told that the buffet dinner would be served from 6-8pm. We arrived around 6:30 to an already bustling venue. Looking around the room (and seeing the ads for retirement communities, mobility aids, and dentures in the playbill) it was evident that the crowd skewed older – Mack commented that the Mayfield might consider further marketing initiatives to attract a more diverse audience.

After depositing our coats and bags at our comfortable booth angled just right of the stage, we headed to the separate buffet room, connected to the theatre via a short hallway. Nearly three dozen cold starters and hot entrees awaited us, in addition to the usual assortment of cakes, squares and fruit at the dessert bar. We joined the line-up, eager to fill up our first of several plates.

Like most buffets, the food was hit and miss. Recommended dishes included the smoked Alberta whitefish, the roasted chicken in cream sauce and sautéed beef tenderloin and shitake mushrooms. To avoid: sushi, the prime rib (served cold), and the flavourless manicotti.

My plate

We seemed to fare better on dessert as a whole, each of us enjoying our respective choice of sweets. Mack especially liked the carrot cake, and my black forest torte was rich, but thankfully restrained in terms of sugar content.

Mack and Thom hit up the dessert bar

Our early arrival ensured we had plenty of time to enjoy our food, without feeling rushed. When they announced that the buffet would be closing in fifteen minutes we had already had our fair share. Although the food was self-serve, a server did approach our table to ask if we wanted any drinks other than water and coffee. Also, roving staff were great at promptly picking up empty dishes and refilling glasses – even though it was our first time, it was clear the Mayfield was a well-oiled machine.

As for the other half of the evening, I was a bit disappointed with the show, which follows a jealous husband as he blackmails an old college classmate into killing his wife. While I’ve never seen the Hitchcock version, I expected a lot more from this production and from the actors. I thought the use of ominous music was unnecessary and overdone, and cheapened the on-stage tension tangible in some scenes. Also, while Jeff Haslam (playing the scheming husband Tony Wendice) was somewhat successful at walking the fine line between drama and comedy, John Wright (in the role of Inspector Hubbard) was less so, and to me, upended the serious tone of the play. More than anything, I found myself unable (or unwilling) to sympathize with any of the characters, so in the end, the show was a lost cause for me.

With this particular show, and the at par meal, Mack and I both agreed that we didn’t see the value of our $69.99 ticket. Besides the convenience of a one-stop dinner and show, the alternatives that we could think of (dinner at Origin India or Packrat Louie and show at the Varscona or Catalyst Theatres) would be similar in price, but almost guaranteed to be of better quality. While I wouldn’t rule out a visit in the future, the sway of the production would have to be pretty great to get me through the door again.

Of course, with any night out, the company plays a factor. And on that night at least, we found some solace at our table.

Grandma Male and Thom

Mack and me

Mayfield Dinner Theatre (at the Mayfield Inn & Suites)
16615 109 Avenue
Ticket office: (780) 483-4051
Dial ‘M’ for Murder runs until April 11, 2010

Chinatown Resurgence: Samurai Bistro

I can usually find a pretty good excuse to try out new restaurants. On Monday, that excuse was the Mayor’s Celebration of the Arts. We’ve been attending the annual arts awards and recognition evening for three years (sadly, there was no on-stage closing dance number this time), and needed to have a pre-show meal. Samurai Bistro, open just two weeks, fit the bill perfectly.

I remember visiting Chinatown practically every weekend when I was younger, a stop for Asian groceries a necessary errand. At the time, the empty storefronts were fewer, and the traffic was heavier – mainstream grocery stores at the time didn’t carry as diverse an aisle of ethnic products, and T & T Supermarket didn’t exist. Even though Samurai Bistro and Basil Leaf make up what I would consider the western edge of Chinatown, it’s still nice to see some new development and revamped buildings anywhere in Chinatown.

Samurai Bistro is a tiny 30-seater restaurant, focusing on ramen and noodle bowls. The staff, who were friendly and attentive, did say that their dozen-item menu would be expanded in the next week, and would include daily seafood features. They also seemed sincere in their request for feedback after our meal, stating that they were a new business looking for any ways they could improve – it’s not something I’ve experienced a lot of, and though I didn’t have anything constructive to say, was a welcome inquiry.

The long and narrow restaurant was equipped with a refreshing open kitchen, lined with seats so patrons have the option of watching their food be prepared. I’m sure if the restaurant was packed, it would create quite the lively atmosphere. I loved the granite tables and the high-backed chairs, while Mack found the mounted wall “fireplace” to be particularly amusing. I thought the flat screen televisions, tuned to Food Network and ESPN, were two signs that we were in the right place.

Samurai Bistro interior

We underestimated our appetites that night, and opted to order the gyoza (7 for $7) to start. For our mains, I decided on the chicken and spicy herb ($9) bowl, and Mack chose the shrimp, scallop and seafood ($11) bowl. The restaurant had run out of ramen (brought in from Vancouver), so udon was our only option.

Order by photo!

The gyoza were fantastic – crispy and light on the outside, they were filled with just the right amount of pork and crispy cabbage. Definitely a keeper.

Gyoza, beautifully presented

As for our udon bowls, they were never-ending vessels, and ultimately defeated both of us. What first struck both of us was their generosity with seafood – Mack’s was filled to the brim with plump shrimp, scallops and calamari rings, in addition to crab legs. My accompanying chicken wasgood (the spicy coating making the difference), but seafood was definitely the winner here. The broth was all right, but my frequent pho ventures left me wanting for more flavour depth, which I realize is an unfair comparison.

Shrimp, Scallop and Seafood Bowl

 Chicken and Spicy Herb Bowl

Mack, a self-described “unstoppable crab-eating force”

With their responsive service and generous portions, I wouldn’t hesitate to return in the future. I hope others do the same, and perhaps in the process, help Chinatown regain some of its former glory.

Samurai Bistro
10632 100 Street
(780) 756-0834
Monday-Wednesday 11am-9pm, Thursday 11am-10pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-11pm, Sunday 11am-6pm

Culinary Q & A with Sarah Clarke

Occupation: Officially I’m the Business Planning Manager for Alberta Justice. Unofficially I bake cakes and cupcakes.

What did you eat today?

French toast and a latte for breakfast, cheese quesadilla for lunch and grilled chicken with spinach/mozzarella ravioli for dinner.

What do you never eat?

Fruit and fresh tomatoes. Seriously, no fruit! I’ll eat raisins but not grapes and I’ll  eat banana bread but not a banana! My mom told me I’d get scurvy not eating fruit but I’ve made it this far so I think I’m in the clear!

What is your personal specialty?

My chocolate cupcakes with vanilla buttercream icing.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

Eggs, butter and milk (gotta be ready to bake in a blink of an eye!)

What is your weekday meal standby?

If time is really limited, it’d be grilled cheese and soup otherwise I like making a stir fry or curry over rice.

What is your favourite kitchen item?

I love my Kitchen Aid mixer!

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Tough question. My mom’s breaded chicken, a baked potato with butter and roasted corn on the cob followed by a slice of my chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream. Basic, clean, but absolutely delicious food!

Where do you eat out most frequently?

I don’t think I play favourites…I cater to my moods more often than frequent one restaurant. But a few of my favourites are OPM, Mikado, and New Asian Village.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

My favourite dish is at the Cactus Club in WEM. I love their butternut squash ravioli with scallops and fried sage leaves!!! Making myself hungry…

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I’d like to go to Thailand and try some authentic green curry…and of course ride an elephant (maybe not at the same time though)!

Sarah blogs at Thoughts about Things and Cake Sarah Sera.

Food Notes for March 22, 2010

I totally wasn’t prepared for this blast of winter, but then again, our seemingly early spring was too good to be true. On to this week’s food notes:

  • You have just over a week to get your entry into the Edmonton Food Bank’s Expressions of Hunger Contest!
  • I’m sure by now you’ve seen at least a few posts on David Adjey’s whirlwind few days at NAIT’s latest Chef in Residence. If you want to experience the Chef firsthand, NAIT has since posted the video, edited slightly for (PG) content.
  • Whimsical Cupcakes celebrated their first day of operations in their new location (8716 109 Street, next to the Garneau Theatre) on Friday. Their grand opening will take place sometime in April.
  • I had been wondering what the former Elkhorn Ranch & Resort space on Jasper Avenue and 114 Street was being turned into (a mishmash of banquets and chairs seemed to indicate some sort of restaurant was moving in) – thanks to Nate, I now know it’s the new location of CoCo Di’s.
  • The Journal’s Alan Kellogg positively reviewed ZINC over the weekend. I do wonder what “trash talk…in cyberspace” he is referring to, and why he bothered to mention the Twitter incident without elaborating on what happened.
  • Vue Weekly’s cover story last week featured the Enoteca wine system.
  • Via Chris LaBossiere’s blog – Riverbend and Terwillegar communities are gauging public interest for a new farmers’ market in the area. Take the survey here.
  • Mack sent me a link about a green roof that will be installed on the Williams Engineering building. While it won’t support produce, it’s a definite start.
  • Congratulations to Laura Calder and her team at French Food at Home for their James Beard nomination – they’re up against some good company: Iron Chef America and Barefoot Contessa. Award results on May 2 and 3 (I also love that they actively use their Twitter account).
  • Eater National compiled a list of “top 10 restaurant design trends that need to go”. I realize that we are behind the times (many of the trends haven’t even landed here yet), and I really do like Edison bulbs and chalkboard menus…
  • My sister sent me a link to a coupon that will get you a free pastry at Starbucks on March 23 between opening and 10:30am. I think it’s neat that instead of printing the coupon, you can show it to a barista on your mobile device.
  • Last week, I forgot to include a quick photo I snapped of David’s Tea, a new tea bar and shop in WEM. As soon as I stepped into the store, I was accosted by a perky sales clerk with a sample of a fruity rooibos tea. It looks like a sleek shop – I wouldn’t mind returning sometime to browse a bit more closely.

 

David’s Tea

  • I mentioned last week that the old Way of Life/Mode de Vie (10203 116 Street) will soon be transformed into the city’s latest Indian restaurant. At the red light – a stop-by shot:

Forthcoming Bistro India

The Cooking Chronicles: Chicken for Lunch

With pan-frying and roasting being our go-to methods of cooking chicken, I really never considered poaching an option before. From reading tips on various websites, it seemed the trick to moist, flavourful meat was to throw in some flavouring agents (bay leaves, peppercorns, onions, garlic, salt, etc.), and not to overcook it.

Needing some cooked chicken for a We Eat Together recipe for curried chicken and apple soup, I decided to poach a chicken breast in the chicken stock and coconut milk that would become the base of the soup anyway. Good idea, in theory, except that coconut milk has a tendency to boil over…very quickly. Besides having to clean the stove though, the method worked reasonably well. The apples were an interesting textural addition to the soup – they became almost translucent in appearance, and lost most of their sweetness to the broth. I probably wouldn’t have known they were apples if I didn’t add them myself. It’s hard not to love a soup that contains coconut milk though!

Curried Chicken and Apple Soup (photographed in the very drab lunch room at my office – between the fluorescent lighting and the grey tables, I admit defeat)

A second meal involving poached chicken (this time just in water, with a few aromatics thrown in), was a variation on Donna Hay’s chicken pot pies, from No Time To Cook. Her version involved combining cooked chicken with sour cream, shredded cheddar to be baked in ramekins and a puff pastry crust. I decided to throw in some peas and steamed potatoes and carrots for good measure.

Chicken Ramekin Pies

The final product was perfectly sized for lunch the next day (and the puff pastry wasn’t too worse for wear heated separately in a toaster oven).

Mmm…puff pastry

It’s always handy to have more cooking methods at my disposal, especially ones that don’t involve a lot of work on my part!

My 2010 Wish List for Edmonton’s Food Scene

In January last year, I put together a wish list of things I wanted to see in Edmonton’s food scene. Though not many from that list have actually come to pass (yet), I thought it was time to note down some other culinary delights I would love to see more of in our city:

  • Breakfast joints and diners: Perhaps this point comes from watching one too many episodes of Diners, Drive Ins and Dives, but regardless, I think Edmonton has an under-developed breakfast culture. Sure, we have a handful of diners (Route 99, Urban Diner, Blue Plate Diner, and most recently, Cora’s), but every time I visit Calgary, I’m left with diner envy. Calgarians love their Nellie’s (have you seen the line-ups?), and have a plethora of casual weekend brunch options to choose from (Avenue Diner, Dairy Lane, Galaxie Diner, Diner Deluxe, and one of the newest, Over Easy Breakfast, just to name a few). What will it take to inject a more frenzied love (and market) for brunch in Edmonton?
  • Dessert bars: Though I do enjoy multi-course meals at a single restaurant, I’m also a huge fan of dining mobility, and being able to seamlessly relocate elsewhere for drinks, coffee, or dessert. Unfortunately, specialty dessert bars (such as Nectar in Calgary) have not yet landed in Edmonton.
  • Food trucks: A downside of following the New York food scene is having no real local point of reference to understand their amazing culture of food carts (to the point where food trucks are being used to promote a website launch for NBC). Aside from Fat Franks and Filistix, Edmonton is bereft of outdoor food purveyors. Though I recognize our long winters may play a factor, as well as a lack of critical mass of potential customers in the core, isn’t it cool to see food trucks Tweeting their daily location?
  • Rooftop patios and gardens: I realize Edmonton isn’t quite dense enough to have to resort to utilizing rooftop spaces yet, but there’s nothing like sipping a cool drink on a hot summer day on a rooftop patio. The Black Dog, Chili’s on Whyte Avenue, Latitude 53, and now, the Art Gallery of Alberta are all equipped with above-ground terraces, but I’m hoping for more. As for rooftop gardens – yes, it’s complicated to build, but when you see what’s possible (such as rooftop CSAs in the US), I want to dream.
  • Farm to table dinners: What’s better than eating a meal made from seasonal produce sourced from local farmers, expertly prepared to best highlight their clean, fresh flavours? Madison’s Grill is leading the charge on this, but I think there is a market for more intimate, community-oriented dinners. If it’s all about relationships, such experiences do more than simply expose diners to the exquisite products available close to home – they also bring those interested in supporting local farmers together.

What’s on your Edmonton food scene wish list?

Relaxed but Refined: Madison’s Grill

Did somebody say poutine?

That’s what I thought to myself when I saw the lunch menu being offered by Madison’s Grill during Downtown Dining Week. While I don’t normally have enough time to head into the core for a weekday lunch, a combination of some accrued overtime and sheer desire to try Chef Blair Lebsack’s upscale take on poutine drove me to make a reservation.

Though the restaurant was nearly empty when Mack and I arrived, it quickly filled up with diners from nearby office towers, many who seemed eager to partake in the special pre-fixe deals before us. In the elegant dining room, seated at the table clothed in white, the polished hardwood gleaming in the late morning sunlight, it was easy to just relax. And while I do enjoy the quick-serve options of my usual Chinatown lunches, the refined setting provided a nice change of pace.

I knew I had my heart set on the braised Spring Creek Ranch short rib poutine ($15) before I even entered the restaurant, but that’s not to say that the regular lunch menu did not have its own allure. From the Sylvan Star grilled cheese sandwich ($15) to the Irving’s pulled Berkshire pork sandwich ($16) and the grilled scallop and prawn risotto ($19), it was clear to both of us that this wouldn’t be our last daytime visit to Madison’s. Mack had to fight the urge to order a second helping of poutine, but eventually decided upon the prawn orzo ($15).

Before our food arrived, Blair was nice enough to chat with us for a bit. When I said I was surprised to find Sylvan Star cheese curds on the menu, he replied that the award-winning company only makes them a few times a year. For the occasion of Downtown Dining Week, Madison’s put in an order for 10 kg of curds! He also noted that the sauce Robert “gravy” was a reference not only to the French brown mustard sauce, but also to his Chef de Cuisine, Robert.

Our food was promptly delivered, and yes, I am happy to say that the poutine lived up to my high expectations. The squeaky cheese was divine, stringing errant fries together under a delicious gravy bath. And what of the short ribs? Off the bone came the meat, with just the right proportion of luxurious fat to enhance the tender richness of every bite.

Braised Spring Creek Ranch short rib poutine

Mack was equally enthralled with his prawn orzo (though he did slightly regret not ordering the poutine after a small taste). He thought the pasta had been cooked perfectly, and liked the combination of the prawn cream sauce and warm prawn salsa.

Prawn orzo

We were satisfied with our mains, and so declined the offer of a dessert menu from our server. Little did we know, Blair had a sweet surprise in store for us anyway, and brought over a complimentary trio of truffles. Beautifully plated, my favourite was the almond-coated round, with the flavour and texture of the toasted nuts pairing well with the dark chocolate. Mack preferred the orange-flavoured truffle.

Trio of truffles

Our lunch at Madison’s Grill was a breath of fresh air, and left us both relaxed and ready to return to work. It’s a safe bet we will be back soon.

Madison’s Grill (in the Union Bank Inn)
10053 Jasper Avenue
(780) 401-2222