Month: November 2008

The Cooking Chronicles: Lemon Oregano Sole En Papillote

I first saw the idea of cooking “en papillote” during an episode of French Food at Home, and it seemed so appealing to me. A little packet of fish and vegetables to wrap, then open and eat? Irresistible.

Of course, like most recipes I see, it got stored away for a rainy day. Luckily, a High Liner flyer with a similar recipe popped up in the mail, and reminded me that I had yet to try this cooking method. So I finally did last week.

I can’t locate the actual recipe I used on the High Liner website (this is the closest), but Laura Calder’s recipe is very close to what we did. We used sole, by far one of the most inexpensive types of fish I have bought ($5 for 3 fresh fillets). In terms of cooking, we substituted dried oregano for fresh thyme, poured the mustard/honey/lemon juice/herb/olive oil dressing over the fish and vegetables, wrapped up the packets, and put them in the oven. We wondered why the parchment was advised to be a heart shape – wouldn’t an oval work just as well?

In any case, we took out the packets after the recommended twenty-five minutes and opened them up. Steaming, the fish had been beautifully cooked (the paper wasn’t as spotlessly brown as in the photo, but no matter). Cooking en papillote made for a relatively easy and quick dinner (the parchment made cleanup a cinch too).

I figured this would be a great dish for dinner parties – the packets could be assembled ahead of time, refrigerated, then popped in the oven after guests arrive. I will be making this again!

Sole En Papillote

And given the relatively healthy dinner, we allowed ourselves to indulge in a little dessert – a slice of tiramisu from Save On. It was remarkably good.

Tiramisu

Citadel Theatre: “Billy Twinkle: Requiem for a Golden Boy”

10 Days on Earth, the first Ronnie Burkett show I saw two years ago, was a revelation to me. It was the best piece of theatre I had seen in a long time, if not ever. Given that it was an “adult marionette” show, that was a surprise to me, but I was convinced that Burkett was a master storyteller and genius at his craft.

As such, I had really high expectations going into his latest production, Billy Twinkle: Requiem for a Golden Boy. From the website:

“Billy Twinkle is a middle-aged cruise ship puppeteer who dazzles audiences with his Stars in Miniature marionette niteclub act. His saucy burlesque stripper Rusty Knockers titillates the tourists, octogenarian Murray Spiegelmann invokes sidesplitting laughter with the inflatable balloon in his pants, Bumblebear juggles and roller-skates and steals the hearts of every audience, and Biddy Bantam Brewster brings a bit of highbrow hilarity to the high seas with her drunken aria. Billy is the best in the business and on top of the world as he floats along through life.

“Until he is fired by the cruise line. Standing at the edge of the ship contemplating a watery demise, Billy is abruptly called back to reality when his dead mentor Sid Diamond appears as a hand puppet. Sid literally will not leave his side, and forces Billy to re-enact his life as a puppet show in order to remember and rekindle the passion Billy once had for puppets, people and the dream of a life that sparkles.”

I was hoping the story would be better than it read in the preview, but it wasn’t. I didn’t buy the talking handpuppet bit, which was essentially the lynchpin to the entire play. Some of the flashback sequences also seemed unnecessary, dragging out the sans-intermission production to a lengthy hour and forty-five minutes. That said, there were some amusing comedic bits, including Doreen Gray’s Jesus rap, and Sid’s final “performance” as a sad, deranged old man. I also liked the fact that the audience and Billy both realized, at the same point in the play, how important Sid actually was to Billy, and because of this, I wished we could have seen more of their interaction while Sid was still alive.

What lacked in the story was made up somewhat by Burkett’s continued mastery of the puppet craft. He flexed his technical muscle not only with the stripping marionette (it was less dirty and cooler than it sounds), but also being able to control a marionette who was controlling an even smaller marionette.

In the end, I found that the biggest impediment to my enjoyment of the play was Burkett’s physical presence as Billy Twinkle. Unlike 10 Days on Earth, I wasn’t able to immerse myself in the world of puppetry, and for that reason, I think some of the marionette magic was lost.

Even with this overall disappointment, I will not hesitate to see what Burkett cooks up for us the next time he is in town. He is definitely a playwright and performer I will look forward to seeing whenever he returns!

Food Notes

  • I’m sure most of my blog readers have seen the Journal article that was published in part about this website on Wednesday. I was asked on Twitter about how I felt being on the other side of the interview card, and I have to say, not having control over what will be printed has made me more aware of what I write after conducting an interview. For the most part though, I’m happy with the article. And for those who are curious – my stats shot up the three days following the article (doubling my usual traffic), and has since slipped back into the same rhythm it has held over the past few months.
  • Kimmi tipped me off that Kai Asian Grill (which I had mentioned as Tao a while back), at 100, 10909 Jasper Avenue, just opened. They have a pretty decent website.
  • A second Famoso Neopolitan Pizzeria will open in Terwilligar in January (142 St & 23 Ave). It seems to me the South West is the place to be these days, at least for new places to chow.
  • They really are many-fingered, via Mack – a Caffe Sorrentino is going into West Edmonton Mall.
  • A new tea shop opened in Southgate Mall (11100 51 Avenue) recently, called Tea Desire. There really is a growing demand for “gourmet” tea in the city.
  • I met the Studio Manager of D’Lish over the weekend – he said the grand opening will be in early December, but they are already open for lunch. Check out the menu on the website.
  • With Vancouver’s very successful Salt, and now Farm in Calgary, will a charcuterie-serving wine bar be the next big thing in Edmonton?
  • The Edmonton Journal gave a disappointed review of Hundred over the weekend, while See Magazine offered a thumbs up for The Hat.
  • Foodie Suz very bravely wrote about her $2000/month grocery bill on her blog. Brave to me in particular because I don’t really keep track how much I spend on food…
  • Open Table teamed up with over 1300 restaurants in the U.S. to come up with an “Appetite Stimulus Plan”, offering discounted lunch and dinner deals. How long until these kinds of discounts come to Canada?
  • Starbucks unveiled their 2008 Red Cup on November 13. I couldn’t resist popping by for my favourite drink – the newly-renamed Gingersnap Latte. Yum!

 

Gingersnap Latte

Holiday Light-up in Downtown Edmonton

My posts are acquiring a bit of a scattered chronological order lately, but as some of my intended subjects have passed the window of timeliness, I thought I’d just continue back and forth as appropriate.

On Saturday, Sir Winston Churchill Square played host to Downtown Edmonton’s annual Holiday Light-up celebration, as well as Christmas on the Square.

Free sleigh rides for children

I had intended on visiting the square for the event last year, but didn’t make it. For whatever reason, I expected a larger tent to house the vendors, instead of what I found – tables scattered between three smaller tents. While it may have made the spaces easier to heat, there was not much room to move, and I’m certain more than a few breakable items fell prey to the congested movement of the crowd.

Tents

Cute Lola Canola honey bears

After 5pm, Mayor Mandel and Santa came out on stage to flick the switch on the 83 foot Christmas tree, in addition to the Bright Nights fixtures on the east part of the Square. Most impressive, however, were the fireworks – set in tune to music (something the New Year’s committee has claimed to have been doing, but hasn’t actually put this into practice), I was amazed they could have set off the pyrotechnics with such little space between the stage the the Winspear to play with.

Tree

Bright Nights display

Fireworks

Churchill Square

Mack took some videos of the fireworks with his handy Flip, in case you missed the event, and has uploaded all of his pictures onto Flickr.

Also, Bright Nights at Hawrelak Park begins on Friday, while the light-up celebration at the Legislature takes place on December 4. Incredible how quickly the holiday season is approaching, isn’t it?

Mixed Makeover: Lazia

In the past on this blog, I have mentioned  my disdain for Lazia (10200 102 Avenue). However, after being wowed earlier this year at their newest outpost, the Wildflower Grill, I was in the right frame of mind to give Lazia another try, especially after seeing that their downtown location had been completely remodelled, from the interior to the menu. I had trust that Chef Yoshi Chubachi could spread some of that Wildflower magic to the rest of Lazia’s holdings.

Prior to a show at the nearby Citadel Theatre, Mack and I headed to the restaurant with with expectations in check. We were greeted by a hostess, and immediately taken past the lounge, into the dining room, and offered a choice seat in a rounded banquet. Plush and large enough to easily accommodate a party of five, we enjoyed the semblance of privacy our table provided us.

The decor in the dining area hadn’t changed as much as in the lounge. I was happy to see that the blown-glass sculpture had been saved through the renovation, but besides some minor furniture adjustments, the core of the dining room seemed to have remained the same (granted, my image of the restaurant is several years old). The lounge, however, was now sleek and sophisticated, with the back wall a popping orange shade, a bar with ample seating situated in the centre, and a small glass area in the front lined with couches – perfect for a girls night out.

Dining area

I was most excited about the potential of the new menu. While it did look a lot better on the outset than what I remembered, it was a bit scattered (though to be fair, most mid-range restaurants Lazia is trying to compete with have the same problem). I did really like the fact that there were two streams of desserts to choose from – a range of $8 regular desserts and a set of $5 plates to satisfy those just looking for something small.

I ended up ordering the roasted butternut squash Ravioli ($23) in a white truffle rosé sauce, while Mack opted for the Colossal Prawns ($25), served with a laundry list of accompaniments, including a panko crusted crab cake, cooked shrimp ceviche, miso soya sugar snap peas, basmati rice, sweet
pineapple curry and tomato & corn confit.

Service was great throughout, much improving my outlook on Lazia. Our food was also delivered quite promptly, with a flare for plate presentation – our dishes were treated like pieces of art, the white plates an empty canvas for visual design. The portion sizes, however, left much to be desired – though Mack enjoyed his meal, he could have easily consumed two of the same. My pasta was too sweet all around, between the filling, the sauce, and the accent vegetables – I found no delicate interplay between flavours (as with Rob Feenie’s masterful interpretation at Cactus Club Bentall 5).

Colossal Prawns

Ravioli

Overall, we found the Lazia dining room to be a local, but pricier version of the upscale casual brand purported by the Earls and Joeys of the world. We’d be back to try the desserts, but probably after a cheaper meal elsewhere.

I was back at Lazia sooner than I had expected – a two days after my meal with Mack, a few girlfriends and met up for a bite to eat in the lounge. I now have a better appreciation for the reason why food reviewers at major newspapers visit restaurants multiple times to sample dishes off all parts of the menu – I was ready to give Lazia a thumbs up after our dinner, but following our lounge experience, I’d include a small asterisk on that recommendation.

While the lounge was busy, it wasn’t as packed as we thought it would be on a Friday evening. Though it was clear that our party was still waiting for one more, none of the waitresses thought to check on us to see if we wanted to order anyway – a clear twenty minutes passed before we were acknowledged by any of the staff members after sitting down.

Eventually, we were asked to order. The small plates ranged from $6-12, the dishes influenced by the same haphazard “world cuisine” philosophy that dominated the entree side of the menu. I ended up choosing the Ginger Beef ($9), Janice and May the Garlic Prawns ($12), and Annie the Patatas Bravas ($6), or Spanish home fries, because the kitchen had run out of sweet potato fries.

The kitchen was thankfully more together than their floor counterparts, and our dishes were delivered in good time. Based on our sampling, we weren’t too impressed with the appetizers – my ginger beef was barely above the standard served at Beijing Beijing, while Janice couldn’t taste any garlic in her prawns. Annie’s dish sounded great on the outset, but really, the home fries were really a fancy name for potato wedges.

Ginger Beef

Garlic Prawns (served with smoked tomato bruchetta)

Patatas Bravas (served with a really well-executed red onion watermelon salad)

Also worth mentioning was an out-of-place employee who, while well-intentioned, put us off. She came by our table twice, leaned her elbows on the table, and almost seemed like she was going to pull up a chair to join our group. She asked about the occasion of our get-together, and about how we felt about our food thus far. We didn’t hesitate to answer her questions, but the way in which she asked seemed awkward and forced – an attempt at connecting with customers that failed.

And so, the asterisk – the lounge, with a vibe for those to see and be seen (similar to Hundred), is chic for an after-work drink, but for food, choose the mains over the appetizers.

Lazia
10200 102 Avenue (one other location)
(780) 990-0188
Sunday, Monday and holidays 11am-10pm, Tuesday to Saturday 11am-midnight
Appetizers $6-12, Entrees $9-43, Desserts $5-8

Holiday Stop & Shop 2008

I finally made it out to Stop & Shop at the Trans Alta Arts Barns (10330 84 Avenue) on Thursday night, even though I’d been meaning to check out this “alternative craft show” for some time. Based on the article I read a few days back in the Journal, I was expecting a venue that would be filled with loud, obtrusive music that would make it difficult to browse wares comfortably. What I got was something completely different, and entirely fabulous.

The Arts Barns had been transformed into a marketplace, with the lobby, the boardroom, and the Westbury Theatre showcasing over 85 vendors selling everything from accessories, home decor items, to clothing.

Marketplace

A small stage was set up in the Westbury Theatre, on which a folksy, acoustic-guitar slinging singer was performing. His lovely tunes were carried into the other rooms via speakers, and I found that his music set the tone for the relaxed but jovial atmosphere in the hall. Stop & Shop was really like nothing I have ever been to in Edmonton – it felt more informal than other craft sales (like the one at the Butterdome each year), and made shopping a fun experience, with music, food, and drinks.

I ended up picking up a few things – a clever greeting card from Miss Dishy, an adorable Jam book by Sarah Jackson, and a new friend (Netty, an Ugly Doll by Belua Designs – I have Jane to thank for the last two purchases).

Ugly Dolls (too cute!)

Holiday Stop & Shop is on until Saturday (remember to print the $2 off admission coupon from the website before you go), but if you can’t make it, there are a few other off-the-beaten path craft fairs to attend:

  • November 18 & 19, 9am-3pm: Community Marketplace @ MacEwan South Campus (7319 29 Avenue by Room 145)
  • November 21 & 22, various times: Christmas Arts Bazaar @ The Carrot (9351 118 Avenue)
  • November 24, 2-10pm: Guerilla Boutique @ The ARTery (9535 Jasper Ave)
  • November 28-30, varied hours: Pizzazz! Not just another craft and gift show @ Edmonton Aviation Heritage Centre (11410 Kingsway Avenue), $3 admission, $1 off with Food Bank donation
  • November 29 & 30, 10am-5pm: Royal Bison Craft & Art Fair @ Cosmopolitan Music Society (8426 Gateway Blvd), $2 admission
  • December 11, 5-10pm: Sip and Splurge @ Savoy (10401 Whyte Avenue), bring a Food Bank donation for admission

Happy shopping!

The Cooking Chronicles: Mushroom Soup and Little Stars with Butter and Parmesan

Comfort food was the name of the game on a cool Sunday, and I had two recipes on the backburner I’d been wanting to try for some time.

The first was a Ruth Reichl recipe for Mushroom Soup that I found in Comfort Me with Apples. It seemed easy enough on paper, with just a few more steps than it would take to simply open up a can of Campbells to heat, and I was glad to find out that it was fairly simple in practice.

We ended up not having any nutmeg on hand, so the flavour was perhaps not as rich as it could have been, but the half pound of cremini mushrooms resulted in a soup chock full of mushroom-y goodness. Mack also enjoyed the onions, as canned mushroom soup typically doesn’t include other vegetable varieties.

Mushroom Soup

As the soup probably wouldn’t have been filling enough, I opted to make an accompanying pasta dish, a four-ingredient gem by Giada de Laurentiis.  I was able to whip up her recipe for Little Stars with Butter and Parmesan while the soup was simmering. The only downside was the purchase of pre-shredded parmesan that had been grated too large to be easily melted into the hot pasta. While simple (Laurentiis described it as an “Italian mac and cheese”), it was satisfying, and would be a great dish for children.

Little Stars with Butter and Parmesan

Food Notes

  • Turns out D’Lish on 124th Street is another meal-assembly business, along the lines of the south side’s Passionate Plate. It opens some time this month.
  • City Palate reports that the upcoming Sabzy Cafe (which will occupy the old Sapphire Lounge space on Whyte) will be a Mediterranean/Turkish spot, and also mentioned the new Sabor Divino (109-10220 103 Street NW, 780-757-1114) to watch for on the Boardwalk.
  • Also from City Palate – Kerstin’s new Chocophilia flavour is Cardamom Mint. I’ll need to get out to the store some time soon to give it a try.
  • Hanne Lynch wrote about her experience at a NAIT Culinary Skills course that I’ve been considering for a while – Kitchen Skills I – The Art of Garde Manger & Knife Skills. Her husband blogged about their experience here.
  • It’s funny how excited I get about potato chips, but it’s undeniable: President’s Choice has added two new flavours to their premium line of chips – Spicy Piri Piri and Tandoori Chicken. I have no doubt the former will be too hot for my palate, but I was happy with my initial sampling of the latter.
  • Instead of the 100 Mile Diet, how about the $1 a day diet? A New York Times article about the subject in an economic downturn.
  • Also from the Times, a great primer article on Yelp, a rising star in the food subset of social media. I’ve been spending more time on Chowhound as of late, but I started browsing Yelp, and it looks like an interesting community. I’ll be poking around a bit more.
  • I normally purchase the cheapest cupcake liners I can find, but should a special occasion arise, I wouldn’t mind considering these absolutely gorgeous paper Filigree Cupcake Wrappers.
  • Employees at my organization were treated to a fundraising “Ethnic Lunch” this past week. For just $10, we were treated to a buffet of Indian and African dishes, including Daal and Curried Cabbage. Delish!

 

My plate

  • Megan bought me Foodie Fight, a trivia game that asks questions on everything food-related. We’ve already played it twice, and I’m happy to say I’ve been on the winning side each time. Thanks Megan!

 

Foodie Fight (the board on the left belongs to Gord and Andrea, while the one on the right belongs to Mack and I)

Better Luck Next Time: Marco’s Famous

For a quick food stop prior to a Revolutionary Speakers’ Series lecture by Sue Johanson (of Sunday Night Sex Show fame), we opted to try Marco’s Famous in the Students’ Union Building on campus (8900 114 Street). We always walk by the “flagship” Whyte location with intentions to stop, but timing has never worked out.

On this day, the line at SUB merchants was clearly favouring the new Taco Time (which replaced Funky Pickle), but there were still a few customers hovered around the Marco’s order counter. It didn’t take me long to decide on a Cheeseburger ($5.50), while Mack decided to taste the Donair ($6.50). We topped off our dinner with an order of large fries ($4.00).

Our order was complete in just a few minutes, and we quickly found a seat to chow down as we watched the line to the Myer Horowitz grow. My 6oz. burger looked pretty standard – the patty topped with condiments, onions and a pickle. But when I bit into it, it started oozing ketchup – so much so that the ketchup began leaking from the top of the bun. And at $5.50, I would have preferred a chargrilled Harvey’s burger. Mack found his donair under a similar sauce-siege – it was messy and thus difficult to eat. The fries were also a disappointment – bland and under-seasoned, we would have welcomed salt or adornment of any kind.

Cheeseburger

Remnants of Mack’s donair

Fries

Though we are willing to give Marco’s another try (and not judge all outlets by our experience at this one), they will definitely have to step up to the plate next time.

Marco’s Famous
8900 114 Street
(780) 437-8644

Hearty and Unpretentious Fare: Spago

To mark the sad occasion of my 2008 Entertainment Book expiring, we had dinner at Spago (12433 97 Street NW) to utilize one last coupon.

I have been quite curious about the Portuguese restaurant – from what I could gather on the web, it has been around for a while, and is frequented by a series of regulars.

While the restaurant wasn’t at capacity on the Saturday evening that we visited, we were told by the hostess that business was picking up as the holiday season approached. The open room was conducive to the feeling of being in a large, welcoming kitchen accented with rustic wooden beams and large curtains that could be utilized as privacy denominators. The space looked like it hadn’t been touched since the eighties, with the telling stained-glass lamps above the bar and the buffet reminding me of Bonanza and many meals of my childhood, but at the same time, I felt at home in the room.

We were seated at a back corner booth, which, while tucked away for a sense of privacy, may have made it difficult for our server to know we were there. Thankfully for Mack, our wait was made easier with the open-access wifi he was able to connect to (like Oodle Noodle, the unintended benefit of being situated in a residential area). When our waitress finally greeted us for the first time, she apologized, and after that, steadily made up for our initial misgivings.

Admitting my own ignorance for Portuguese fare, I wouldn’t have been able to discern the authenticity of any dish, but the Pan-Seared Halibut ($23) grabbed my attention. Mack opted for the Paella ($23), hoping it would duplicate some of the flavours of Spain, where he first had the dish. I appreciated the upfront nature of the menu, which specified which dishes were not eligible for the coupon discount.

The kitchen was on the ball, as we didn’t have to wait long at all for our food. Steaming plates of were delivered to us, with Mack’s dish being a little more visually appealing than mine. The Mediterranean rub used on my 8oz. halibut was great – just enough kick to flavour but not overwhelm the fish, while the roasted garlic and tomato confit was a sweet accompaniment. Mack thoroughly enjoyed his paella, and the balanced amount of seafood and then some included (mussels, clams, prawns, shrimp, calamari, scallops, chicken chourico and pork), though he wished it didn’t cool down so fast – the rice didn’t quite taste the same cool as it did piping hot.

Pan-Seared Halibut

Paella

I’m really glad Spago decided to advertise in the Entertainment Book; we likely would have never wandered in on our own accord to find a venue great for families offering hearty and unpretentious fare.

Spago
12433 97 Street NW
(780) 479-9328
Monday – Thursday 11am-10pm, Friday 11am-midnight, Saturday, 4pm-midnight, Sunday, 11am-9pm
Appetizers $6-12, Entrees $16-50, Desserts $4.25-8