Month: February 2008

Ruth Reichl’s “Garlic and Sapphires”

There are many types of celebrities in the food world, including chefs, restaurateurs, and network hosts. Another group, and one that is almost counterintuitive to include among these revered connoisseurs are the critics who write about food.

One of the most well known critics in the United States is Ruth Reichl. Currently the Editor-in-Chief of Gourmet, previously the restaurant critic at the New York Times, and before that, the food editor at the Los Angeles Times, she has garnered a reputation of “democratizing” expensive eats and even expressing guilt about her indulgence in the face of those who can’t afford food at all.

I remember seeing her name here and there, especially on Ganda’s blog, but I didn’t really know that she had written anything other than brief columns until I saw her most recent memoir, titled Garlic and Sapphires, in Barnes and Noble in New York. I bought a copy upon my return to Edmonton, and actually managed to finish the book (my idiosyncrasy as of late is an inability to complete books I begin…shame).

A narrative about her stint at the NY Times, it is a journey through the many disguises she dons in attempts to hide her true identity from restaurants seeking to woo her with the hopes of striking a good review. In the process, she uncovers personalities within that she didn’t know she had.

That arc, in my opinion, is enjoyable, but is also the weakest link of the book. It’s easiest to relate to Reichl when she writes as the fun-loving, down-to-earth woman who simply enjoys good food. But it is also a bit contrived, the reviews and dining experiences carefully chosen to demonstrate the gradual development and learning Reichl went through over her six years at the paper.

That said, I have much to learn from Reichl – beyond wishing for her impeccable palette and appreciation for the expansive edible spectrum New York has to offer, I would imagine many also strive to capture the essence of food with words the way she does. Those who know my tastes know that I do not eat sushi, but after savouring Reichl’s descriptions of the authentic Japanese eatery Kurumazushi, with fresh fish sliced so thin it literally melts on your tongue, even I would consider changing my stance on raw seafood.

Some things I could have learned elsewhere, but was easier within the context of Garlic and Sapphires:

  • Daniel Boulud and Jacques Torres both worked at Le Cirque;
  • Chilean sea bass is also known as Patagonian toothfish; and
  • before handing down a verdict, Reichl would dine at a location at least three times, if not more. This allows a restaurant to have a ‘bad night’, especially when a negative review from the Times can really tip the fortunes of a place, but boy, what a luxury (more than multiple visits by one person, I favour one visit by many people, as can be found in Frank Bruni’s recent review of the Second Avenue Deli).

Even amongst anecdotes of four-star pampering, evenings amongst the elite crowd, and a position that saw Reichl accepting phone calls from Hollywood celebrities to ask for restaurant recommendations, I found myself most drawn to her quiet moments with her too-precocious pre-school son Nicky. Ever-supportive of his mother’s wild guises, and always eager to lend a helping hand in the kitchen, his presence ground the story – and her life – as more than just a byline.

At the end of it, Reichl and I both on the same page on the absolute non-negotiable aspect that eating out is an experience, and any restaurant not catering to this sort of theatre and hyper reality doesn’t understand its diners. In the next few months, I would like to try out some of the recipes included (which she deliberately substituted in place of photos), and (fingers crossed) finish reading her second memoir, Comfort Me With Apples.

Culinary Q & A with Elma

Occupation: Registered Social Worker

What did you eat today?

6” Chicken teriyaki sub from subway, cereal, fruit, and coffee, Chicken fingers.

What do you never eat?

Tofu and sushi

What is your personal specialty?

I make a awesome meatloaf.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

I don’t know, I try not to go in the kitchen very much.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

My last meal would be pizza, white wine and a big chocolate cake. (I am simple)

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Wendy’s and Joey tomato (love both places)

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

Not sure, I do like the Keg but not sure if it is the best place to eat.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I would go to New York and have a slice of pizza.

Food Notes

  • Sure there’s the matter of service, ambiance, and of course, the food to consider, but who knew some critics also consider the noise level of a restaurant? Apparently, it is becoming a rapidly increasing issue with diners (Vancouver’s Salt Tasting Room, featured on a recent episode of Giada’s Weekend Getaways, rated off the the noise charts).
  • The Clover individual-cup coffee brewing machine is taking the world by storm. Starbucks is testing it in Seattle and Boston, selling the French-press brewed coffees for $2.25-2.50.
  • As Starbucks phases out their hot food menu, Second Cup has decided to expand theirs.
  • I am not alone: I found a group of Chowhounders who aren’t shy about their dislike of Earls and Joey’s, amongst other chains. Long live dissent!
  • Also scooped from Chowhound: The Cocoa Room (10139 112 Street) is now open downtown, a retail location dedicated to the Chocophilia line of goods.
  • As reported in the Edmonton Journal, the purveyors of Maurya Palace will be opening up a “high end” Indian restaurant on Whyte Avenue and 105th Street in about six weeks called Original India.
  • Philanthropic food photography: New York’s City Harvest is the beneficiary of an auction selling pictures of mouth-watering dishes prepared by well-known chefs. Cool idea.
  • There’s a great piece by Ed Levine over at Serious Eats which addresses the question: does “authentic” ethnic food trump delicious?
  • Lastly, I joined my first group on Flickr – pictures of Ina Garten’s recipes.

Catalyst Theatre: “Frankenstein”

Frankenstein is frightfully good.

Now that I’ve gotten that out of my system – Frakenstein was like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Theatrical in the purest sense of the word (if I can claim such a definition exists), the production demonstrates a remarkable congruence of the script, music, lighting, and design – no one element is out of place or is anything except seamless within the musical as a whole. I am almost certain this is due to the very close collaborative relationship between writer/director/composer Jonathan Christenson and production designer Bretta Gerecke. While I can’t speak to what the typical process is, I gather that it is an apt luxury for the development of a show’s design to take place alongside alterations to the script.

I do believe I read Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein early on in my university years, but to tell you the truth, I can’t remember much of the story. I thought this would be a disadvantage coming into this production, but was I ever wrong. The tragic tale of Victor and his fall from grace was not only accessible, but perhaps even more rich and powerful with Christenson’s interpretation supported by Gerecke’s design. The text was re-written in ABCB rhyming form, allowing for a less jarring transition to the musical segueways. This version of Frankenstein was also not without some black humor – there were more than a few moments where the audience’s hesitation at whether laughing out loud was acceptable or not was palpable (the “going to Hell in a handbasket” number was one of these instances). My only nitpick with the words chosen was a slight overuse of the term “fate” – I think Victor’s story is more meaningful with less emphasis on destiny and more on the context of his life that led to the unfortunate decisions he made. Sure, “fate” allows for many rhyming options, but it is the monosyllabic equivalent of an easy way out.

The cast was fantastic – I was impressed with Nick Green’s agility as Henry, Tracy Penner’s ethereal presence as Lucy, and Andrew Kushnir’s consistent contortion of his hands, physically manifesting Victor’s twisted internal emotions. George Szilagyi as the Creature, however, deserves to be singled out – not only was he able to sympathetically convey the heartbreaking discovery of his monstrous appearance with a near full-face mask on, but even in his moments of unforgiving revenge, there lay a resonating note of injustice and misunderstanding.

As for the design – I will admit to needing to rely on the program for confirmation that Gerecke used paper to form the backbone of the costumes. I don’t feel too bad, however, as the texture, structures, and appearance she was able to achieve with paper was unique to the point of being magical. The fact that all characters were dressed in white neutralized each of them, allowing the audience to focus more closely on facial expressions and words spoken. Moreover, I am not sure if this was deliberate, but I loved the effect of seeing bits of white material being left behind on the stage as the actors moved about – it formed a literal representation of the impression left by individuals.

Frakenstein is the best candidate I have ever seen to offer a continuous production, Broadway-style, here in Edmonton. It must be a physically and emotionally taxing run for the actors, even for the three weeks in this remount, but I do believe it is too good for locals and tourists alike to miss. It thus goes without saying that Christenson and Gerecke’s next collaboration, Nevermore: The Imaginary Life and Improbable Death of Edgar Allan Poe (scheduled for early 2009), will debut with expectations never before seen in the city’s theatre community.

Bistro Praha’s Younger, Hipper Cousin: Accent European Lounge

Spurned by another Entertainment Book coupon offer, May and I met up at the easily-missed Accent European Lounge (8223 104 Street) on Whyte Avenue for a pre-show dinner. You may remember the previous occupant of the space – Milan’s – but with a new owner (and the same chef), Accent was born in March 2007.

When I arrived just after 5:30pm on Saturday, I found the restaurant empty, save for one group in the corner. Business was steady over the course of our meal, however, and the room was nearly full by the time we left two hours later.

Accent is charming and cozy, and can be understood best as Bistro Praha’s younger, hipper cousin. Dim, but with great foresight in lighting placement, the room wasn’t dark, taking full advantage of wall sconces and pendant lamps. Tabletop candles provided some of the requisite ambiance, and played well against the room’s dark wood. I also loved the copper inlay on the tables – they added both a nonchalant touch of class and a not-oft seen method of table dressing. I did think, however, that the two television sets (or at least, the one not above the bar) were out of place. Judging from that evening, I don’t believe those who choose to dine at Accent would be using the space to follow game contests.

We were tended to by the lone waitress, a bubbly personality with a perfectly welcoming presence in the restaurant. She gave us ample time to peruse the menu, and didn’t flinch when I mentioned the fact that I had a coupon. The menu was actually a little less “European” than I expected, with the only transferable dishes between its older, more stalwart Bistro Praha relative being the Wiener Schnitzel and Baked Goulash. May and I ended up with the decidedly more commonplace Filet Mignon ($26) and Baked Salmon ($21), respectively.

Our wait for entrees was lengthy, given that most in the room hadn’t yet ordered. But we were satiated when we received our plates, especially with the generous servings of steamed vegetables provided. Filets of salmon are difficult to mess up, and aren’t ever really spectacular, as it was in this case. The pan-fried potatoes were a nice treat though.

Less pretentious and more casual than Flavours, but with a less interesting menu than Packrat Louie, I don’t think I will make many frequent returns to Accent. But if you’re looking for a bit of charm on Whyte that can’t be found at a bar, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Accent.

Interior

Filet Mignon

Baked Salmon

The End of “Groundhog Day”: Taco Del Mar

Like being trapped in a scene from Groundhog Day, Mack and I have been having the same start-stop conversation about a new Mexican chain that broke ground in Alberta about a year ago. It would go something like this:

[driving past a Taco Del Mar]

Sharon: Oh, look that’s the new taco place. They opened five locations in Edmonton just recently.
Mack: Yes, I know. We’ve had this conversation. I blogged about it over a year ago.
Sharon: Really?!
Mack: Yes, really. This is the third time we’ve had this conversation.

So we figured before Mack killed me to stop the echoing, we thought it would be best to give Taco Del Mar a try.

On Friday night, we headed to the location at 17th Street and 38th Avenue. There was only one other table occupied upon entry, though a trickle of people came through while we sat eating our meal.

Exterior (I just had to laugh at the electric signs that read, “Rippin Tacos” and “Mondo Burritos”)

The decor was cheesy, but in a fun way, with posters referencing the “of the sea” portion of the name, such as “No stopping: whale watching is not an emergency. Keep going”. The tiki hut with bar stools was just too novel to pass up.

Mack in the tiki hut

At the counter, we were prompted by the bright and bold menu to order a customizable dish. I had to deliberate for a while, but I decided to sample the Mondo Burrito ($6.99). My tortilla was filled with rice, pico de gallo (a mixture of onions and tomatoes), shredded marble cheese, and my choice of beans (I chose kidney beans), meat (chicken), and hot or medium sauce. Folded then wrapped in foil, there was a sign that advised unwrapping the package as it was being consumed, to prevent it from falling apart in one’s lap. I took their advice, and ripped strips of foil away as I ate. Mack can attest that it took me an extraordinary amount of time to get through my food, exacerbated by my tendency to take very small bites, an ultimate disservice to the burrito.

Menu

Mondo Burrito

Mack decided to order the quesadilla ($6.99). Containing picco de gallo, shredded cheese, and chicken, it was less filling than my order, but delicious in its simplicity. He was disappointed, however, at the lack of what he termed “sea meat” (Alaskan fish was the only seafood option available).

Quesadilla

Would we return? We weren’t sure, as the prices were probably double what we’d pay at a Taco Bell for a combo meal. While the customizable nature of the food at Taco Del Mar explains the relative expense, we wouldn’t be able to fiscally justify continuous visits for a meal that just wasn’t that special.

Film: “Definitely, Maybe”

After seeing the headline, “A Valentine for New York” in the Globe and Mail about the movie Definitely, Maybe, I knew I had to see it.

Ryan Reynolds is William Hayes, a devoted father who explains to his daughter Maya (played by the perpetually charming Abigail Breslin) how he met her mother. The foundation of their relationship provides some needed stability in the movie, though some would say Breslin’s character is simply a different incarnation of the leading man’s usual wisecracking sidekick friend. Anyway, Will recounts the different relationships he had as a young man, literally charting his would-be wives and the associated break-ups that ensued.

Definitely, Maybe is principally a movie about bad timing, and thus the flashback structure is an effective vehicle to carry the audience through the years (though it is hard to believe that baby-faced Reyonlds is old enough to have an eight-year old child). The women are a force to be reckoned with in their own right, every one of them easily holding their own. Elizabeth Banks as the comfortable college sweetheart, Rachel Weisz as the intense, sensual journalist, and Isla Fisher as the fun-loving free spirit shine in their respective sequences, and it is easy to see why Will falls for each of them. Reyonlds, who I remember only as an overgrown frat boy in Van Wilder, proves that he is capable of carrying the lead role in an emotionally-charged film (not to mention having eyes that you just want to fall into…).

The one notable weakness of the movie is not the fact that Will is in the middle of a divorce with Maya’s mother, but the fact that their life together is not shown. And beyond the audience’s own extrapolations of why it didn’t work (in order to allow for the ending), it is a narrative hole that should have been filled.

As for the inspiration provided by New York itself, besides the shock of seeing the Twin Towers in an early scene, wasn’t as prominent a backdrop as I was expecting. Moreover, the New York in the movie is spared from the winter season all together, it seems. Because of this, I thought it would have been a more appropriate spring release, though it is coincidental that Will’s involvement in politics (starting with his work in Bill Clinton’s presidential campaign) chimes now with Hillary’s current run for Democratic nominee.

As a whole I found this movie more satisfying as a romantic comedy than 27 Dresses – so if you’re looking for something sweet, go see Definitely, Maybe!

The Cooking Chronicles: Neopolitan Cupcakes

I am a perfectionist when it comes to the creation of my dishes, especially with regards to its ultimate appearance – food does, after all, begin with a strong visual connection. In my short time of culinary experimentation, I haven’t yet been defeated by a recipe. I came close to my first yesterday.

For a nice Valentine’s Day treat for my coworkers, I was debating between red velvet cupcakes and a Neopolitan version. I ended up deciding upon the latter, if not only because of the more unusual strawberry-scented icing.

I find that the time estimates given on recipes are a misnomer, or perhaps I am just too slow. I also think the two batters called for threw me for a loop; I couldn’t for the life of me remember if I had added enough flour to the chocolate batch. Thankfully, the cakes themselves turned out okay, and actually, the flavour of the chocolate half was lighter, sweeter, and tastier than Ina’s recipe (I think it has to do with the milk).

As for the icing…it unfortunately fit my pattern of not being able to make an “untested” (read: non-celebrity chef/recognized cookbook affiliated) recipe work for me. It was a complicated one, starting with the heating of four egg whites with sugar (leading to the first catastrophe– note to self: do not use Dollarama glass bowls as a double boiler), then intense whipping with the electric mixer. I think I underbeat the mixture at this stage, halting just before the formation of stiff peaks, and added the butter too quickly. As well, though I do have access to a KitchenAid mixer, I didn’t want to take on the necessary clean up afterwards, so I stuck with the standard egg beaters instead of using the recommended paddle attachment. This was my second error – the mixture, upon addition of the jam, ended up with the consistency of wet whipping cream, and tasted like it too. All that work for what appears to be artificially-flavoured whipping cream. Yes, it was easier to get into the piping bag because it was moist, but squeezed through a star tip, enough liquid was coming through that the “icing” was literally dripping down the sides of the cupcake.

I chose the most presentable cupcakes for my colleagues, topped it off with a mini conversation heart, and gave one each to them this morning. They did enjoy them, and at the end of the day, that’s all that matters.

Happy Valentine’s Day, everyone! (And for you romantics out there, you’re not alone in your belief of love at first sight.)

Neopolitan Cupcakes

Culinary Q & A with Andrew

Occupation: Engineer by day, Medic by night.

What did you eat today?

So far? An orange, it’s 7:34AM, but on the menu today: rice with BBQ ribs and gai lan veggies. For dinner: probably the same.

What do you never eat?

I actually eat everything, even though I hate cilantro. But I guess I don’t get a chance to eat salads a lot.

What is your personal specialty?

The only time I’ve ever cooked (relatively well) was making vegetable tempura, teriyaki chicken, and sesame oil bean sprouts.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

Spatula, they remind me of my days spent at McDonald’s.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Appetizer: Asparagus lightly oiled and sprinkled with sea salt, laid on top of two of those Joey Tomato’s mashed potato spring rolls.Dinner: Rainbow Roll maki, Yellowtail sashimi, and a Teriyaki Chicken/Habachi Shrimp bento box.Dessert: A moist and delicious cake from La Favourite.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

For lunch: Tokyo Express
For dinner: Kyoto, I’m a culinary Japanophile.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

Kyoto for Japanese, Cheesecake Cafe for everything else.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

Brunei, eating satay sticks!!

Entertainment Notes

  • The writer’s strike is over! Check out this list to see when your favorites will (tentatively) return. Unfortunately, the new season of 24 has been pushed back until January of next year, but a few more House episodes will be finished before the close of spring.
  • Does anyone remember the time when the Edmonton Public Library was in the business of lending toys? Well, they no longer have such an inventory, but a company named Baby Plays has taken this idea and is making profit off the renting of toys. Great idea for grandparents or those who only care for young children for a short time.
  • The controversial Body Works exhibition is coming to Edmonton’s Telus World of Science in June.
  • Upcoming events in February: the Silver Skate Festival at Hawrelak Park, free activities at Churchill Square on Family Day (why they continue to think Movies on the Square is a good idea while there is still snow on the ground is beyond me), and what is sure to be some great theatre, including the student-produced New Works Festival at the University of Alberta – up to 4 shows for $5, and Famous Puppet Death Scenes at the Roxy Theatre.
  • Speaking of theatre, Jeff Haslam’s biography in the program of H.M.S. Pinafore says that two Teatro la Quindicina productions are in the works for the summer of this year. I can only hope!