Tag: restaurants

Worth the Splurge: Wildflower Grill

I had mentioned my exquisite meal at Wildflower Grill (10009 107 Street) so many times to Mack in the last year that he was eager to give it a whirl of his own at the next opportunity. We finally made time on Thursday to go and see if the standard of excellence outlived the new car smell.

 

Wildflower interior

The restaurant served just four other tables for the duration of our visit, so for that reason (and the basic principle of welcoming), we found it surprising that the hostess greeted us with an abrupt “Do you have a reservation?” as soon as we walked through the door. Granted, we could have simply surprised her, but a “How are you?” would have been an acceptable preface.

At any rate, we were shown to a table by the window, one of my favourite places to sit in any restaurant. Our server promptly came to take our drink order, and throughout the evening, was attentive without being overbearing – I was happy to see that their service had not declined in quality since my inaugural visit.

The menu appeared to be unchanged, which was fine with me, as I had intentions to sample a dish free of fruits de mer this time around. To start, Mack couldn’t resist the temptation of Coconut Buttered Tiger Prawns ($15), and decided to continue on the seafood theme with Pan-Roasted Sockeye Salmon Medallions ($31) as his entrée. I was decidedly in the land corner that day, and the Herb-Crusted Venison Medallions ($38) struck my fancy.

As expected, our server teased our palate with an amuse bouche, of stewed figs this time. I didn’t care much for the cream cheese finish, but I still adored the complimentary sample from the chef. Next was the included treat I was looking most forward to – brioche bread served with two kinds of butter. It was just as good as I remembered – warm from the oven, crisp on the outside, but soft and chewy on the inside. Heavenly.

 

Amuse bouche

Brioche bread service

We weren’t halfway through our bread, however, when our appetizer appeared. Mack was immediately distracted by the sight of shrimp and scallops, and I was less than interested. The two accompanying sauces provided a color pop to the dish, but were also quite tasty – Mack preferred the lime green chili sauce, while I liked the bite of the red chili sauce. The potato crown which encased the seafood tower was a nice edible addition as well.

Coconut Buttered Tiger Prawns

Anticipating entrees that would arrive prior to completing our appetizer, we finished the plate in no time. To our relief, there was a lengthened pause from the kitchen, and we waited comfortably, sipping our drinks and enjoyed the relaxed ambiance of a quiet dining room.

Our entrees were a canvas to behold. A tiny ceramic pot (adhered to the square plate with the help of mashed potato) supplied a miniature dish within a dish, while the rest of the sides painted a lovely array of colors, accenting the bold, deep pink of the venison medallions which were drenched in a ruby sauce. Mack’s salmon medallions were also heightened visually with beautiful vegetables, though the fish and shrimp were already so vibrant in color that they didn’t need much in the way of accents.

This was my first experience with game, and I wasn’t sure what to expect. Though the texture was different than beef or bison, I’m not sure I would be able to identify the meat as “game” in a blind taste test. The crust and the huckleberry compote were great accompaniments, so I have no complaints on preparation or presentation, but as the dish was served with an oxtail ragout, it was difficult not to prefer the softened shards of braised meat served in a lovely broth. Mack’s lobster and crab-stuffed salmon medallions were the closest he’d probably get to recreating Homer Simpson’s “lobster stuffed with tacos” request, and he enjoyed them thoroughly. He didn’t really think there was a need for the butternut squash gnocchi, however, which didn’t seem to relate to the other parts of the dish.

Herb-crusted Venison Medallions

Pan-Roasted Sockeye Salmon Medallions

We were both stuffed by the end of our mains, and opted not to order dessert. Between the amuse bouche, bread course, and complimentary chocolate they provided prior to handing us our bill, we felt that the diner’s experience was a top priority for staff. It was definitely not an inexpensive meal, but for a special occasion, the Wildflower Grill is worth the splurge.

Wildflower Grill
10009 107 Street
(780) 990-1938
Lunch: Monday – Friday 11am-2pm; Dinner: Sunday – Thursday 5-9pm, Friday – Saturday 5-10pm; Brunch: Sunday 11am-2pm
Appetizers $10-22, Entrees $26-49, Desserts $12

Refined for Expansion: Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria

With the number of restaurants I have yet to try in Edmonton, it’s a wonder I ever make it back to the establishments that I think are deserving of a return visit. So it sometimes helps to have a sweetener. In Famoso’s case, it was in the form of a $50 certificate I bid for in an online auction. Having paid just $32 for the certificate, I thought it was quite the steal.

After a long day at work, Mack and I took the bus to Famoso (11750 Jasper Avenue), and on the way back, intended on walking off the glut of calories we would consume over the course of the evening. We walked in, and were both taken by how busy it was on a random weekday – there was just one table remaining, which we snagged immediately.

While not much had physically changed inside the restaurant, the vibe and the ambiance showcased a more refined Famoso ready to woo patrons from a higher age and income bracket. Gone were the college-esque instructional photos demonstrating how to fold and eat their thin-crust pizzas, as were the deli-style microphone announcements for order pickups. In their place were sleek, professionally photographed shots of sophisticated women enjoying a meal, and table service provided by two buspersons. Famoso had also added a reserve wine list to their menu, inviting patrons to linger and stay on to finish an accompanying bottle of wine with their pizza – a shift from our early comparison to an eat-and-go sandwich joint. Wednesdays now saw a weekly wine tasting event from 6-8:30pm, and the past few months have blossomed with a promotion they call “Famoso’s next Top Chef”. Referencing the popular reality television show, customers can submit their idea for a Neopolitan-style pizza for a chance to have their creation served as the pizza of the month at the restaurant.

The cheery and energetic staff person who took our order said that business has been swift for about a year – probably just picking up prior to our last visit. She was exceptionally helpful and enthusiastic about her work, and was someone Famoso should definitely reward – servers like her are an asset to an organization. At any rate, we ordered (at the counter – that much hadn’t changed), deciding upon the Margherita Pizza, with cherry tomatoes ($11.50) and the Sweet BBQ Chicken ($14), a pizza with a smoked BBQ sauce, roasted chicken, gouda, tomatoes, red onion and cilantro.

We sat down (by this time, a booth had opened up, meaning that there would be at least some light cast on our table), and a few minutes later, our pizzas were brought directly to us. After tasting a slice of Mack’s pizza, I realized I should have probably be more adventurous and chosen something a little off the beaten path. I loved the smoky, tangy sauce, which reminded me very much of the base used on Panago’s Tropical Hawaiian pizza. The Margherita wasn’t bad though – between the chewy, soft dough, and the lovely melted circles of fresh mozzarella, I was definitely enjoying my second Famoso experience.

Margherita Pizza

Sweet BBQ Chicken

Though we were both pretty stuffed from our individual pizzas, I pressed on and ordered a Nutella Pizza ($7). The chocolate calzone-like dessert was the real reason behind my second trip, as it sounded intriguing when I saw it on the menu the first time around. After ordering it at the counter, we sat back and waited. When the plate was delivered, a table nearby looked on with jealous eyes – the prepared calzone had been cut up into easy-to-eat slices, drizzled with chocolate sauce, and finished with whipped cream. The combination of warm, chewy dough and nutella was a good one, but by the time we had each consumed a few slices, we were wishing for an additional accent ingredient like bananas or strawberries. The platter was definitely meant to be shared by more than just two.

Nutella Pizza

My first visit to Famoso led me to believe that it was aligned with producing pizza for the fast food market, but after my most recent experience, I’d recommend it for a casual business lunch, a date, or a place to catch up with friends. I credit the owners with developing the brand into one I can see continually expanding in the Edmonton restaurant scene.

Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria
11750 Jasper Avenue (another location opening in Terwilligar at 142 Street & 23 Avenue in January)
(780) 732-0700
Appetizers $5-12, Entrees $10-14, Desserts $1.50-7

Food Notes

  • A profile I wrote about Cindy Lazarenko of Culina Highlands hit the stands on Thursday. I was remiss with the space limitations for that article in particular, because I felt I had so much more I could write. So here’s a quote I would have shared if I had more room: “You watch these Food Network [shows and] it doesn’t have to be like that – oh Rachel Ray makes these half hour dinners– [but] did you see the list of ingredients? Do you have that much money? It would cost so much money to make all these different things. It really just has to be simple – roasted chicken. Have chicken and vegetables and potatoes. And then the next day you can have a chicken quesadilla with the leftover chicken. Keep it simple. We don’t have to eat every ethnic food out there for dinner every night. We just really need to eat basic food. It doesn’t have to be elaborate. To me it’s not that difficult to just cook.”
  • See Magazine reviewed the new Kai Asian Grill last week (I’m hoping they fix the alignment of the article soon; it looks like they just debuted a new website), and Allan Kellogg put the Silk Hat to the test in the Journal.
  • I passed by a new Good Earth Cafe in the government district (12056 Jasper Avenue) the other day. It looked really nice from the outside at least.
  • Another gadget very few would have room for in their kitchen: a microwave s’mores maker.
  • A story I first saw on CNN, but worth reading about – a farm couple opened their farm up to anyone who wanted to pick their leftover vegetables, and 40,000 people showed up.
  • Also a sort of “harvest”, and only Andrea could send this to me – a cookbook full of recipes where human semen is an ingredient.

Thoughts on Blogging and Photography in the Restaurant Sphere

Two years ago, when I started this blog, I never thought I would have to defend what I chose to cover. At some point, the majority of my posts became food-related, and I embraced this topic, developing various streams of content, including cooking trials, restaurant reviews, and a weekly roundup of culinary stories.

Last month, an awkward run-in with the manager at 100 Bar and Kitchen led me to further examine my role as a blogger and disseminator of information and opinions.

To recap what happened: Mack was taking photos of the interior of 100 when Dean, the manager of the resto-pub, stopped him. In Mack’s words:

“He then told me that I couldn’t just take photos without getting permission first. When I asked him why, he stumbled a bit and then said he had no way of knowing whether I was from a competitor or not. He asked what the photos were for, and I said a review on a blog. That seemed to confuse him, and he asked again. I gave him the URL for Sharon’s blog, and sensing that it wasn’t going anywhere, asked him for a card and promised to send him the link.”

Mack’s post on some being afraid of social media got me thinking about how bloggers are viewed in a city like Edmonton when compared with mainstream media. Understandably, a restaurant can be put on the map with a favourable Journal review (Sebastian Lysz said Devlin’s was packed the same night after a positive review), but few restaurants consider the effect of a positive comment in the social media sphere. Perhaps restauranteurs aren’t aware of this relatively new movement, but I think it is their responsibility to find out what other sources of information are out there, and join the conversation.

Earlier this year, restaurant giant Jean-Georges Vongerichten responded on his personal blog to an unfavourable review he received in the New York Times. While some may read his retort as sour grapes, I think his blog is the perfect medium to express his inspiration for the restaurant, and defend some of the choices he made. Of course, while I doubt someone of Vongerichten’s stature would respond in kind to every negative review he may receive in the blogosphere, I think his example proves that some restauranteurs are beginning to understand the potential of the web.

For the record, Mack e-mailed both my review and his social media post to Dean at 100 shortly after they were written…and we haven’t yet heard back. While we didn’t expect to be invited back for a complimentary meal, a cursory acknowledgement of our concerns would have been appreciated.

In food-forward cities like New York, restaurant news doesn’t break in mainstream media. Instead, blogs like Eater and Serious Eats cover restaurant openings and closings, and of course, post timely reviews. In Edmonton, contributors on Connect2Edmonton, Chowhound and Yelp forums keep each other informed on things that are happening around the city. A recent article in the NYT quoted a manager of a San Francisco restaurant that “sponsors” reviews on Yelp as saying, “Feedback is good when you’re in the customer satisfaction business. If you don’t evolve in this marketplace, you go extinct.”

To blog or not to blog?

While I am not arrogant enough to think of my blog as a be all, end all publicity vehicle for restaurants, for those that do not have a web presence, I think that it is reasonable to say that a review, particularly for smaller, independent eateries, can link potential customers with businesses. I can’t tell you how many search hits I receive for new restaurants that I have simply mentioned in passing in my weekly “Food Notes” posts. Some of these establishments do not have websites (and yes, I understand that the day-to-day demands of running a restaurant are not small), but even a skeleton page with a contact number, hours, and a PDF copy of the menu would suffice for most people.

On the issue of fairness, while papers like the NYT have huge budgets for their food sections (and a policy reflective of both fairness and deep pockets in sending reviewers for at least three meals), multiple visits for the average person would be next to impossible – not only would it be time consuming, but incredibly expensive. I will admit to having something of a personal code of ethics when I review restaurants though – I will qualify any pre-determined bias, including a discounted meal; always pay for my own food; and in an effort to remain objective, refrain from writing about chefs and their food after I have met them.

Andree Lau, the Calgary-based author of Are You Gonna Eat That?, also has her own personal philosophy when it comes to what to write. “When I first started blogging,” she said via e-mail, “I wanted to highlight positive experiences. I figured mediocre visits weren’t worth wasting people’s time with, but now that I’ve been blogging for a while, I’m considering adding more write-ups about repeated negative experiences. In general, I don’t think it’s fair to write a negative entry based on one visit.”

For most restaurants, that kind of candid critique would be difficult to obtain – how many people actually fill out comment cards? Cindy Lazarenko, chef and owner of Culina Highlands, welcomes honest feedback, and understands that the typical “Yes, it’s great” response that servers receive when checking on diners in her restaurant isn’t likely an accurate barometer of their experience. “I want feedback,” she says. “It’s the only way you’re going to learn and grow and get better, but not if it’s done in a negative way. The people here – myself and my husband – put everything into this [restaurant] and it’s coming from a good place, so it’s really hard when you get that negative feedback.”

While I can’t guarantee that the blogosphere will be free of biased, cutthroat feedback, my view is that a restaurant should periodically “check in” with what their customers are saying, good or bad. In the event that improvements need to be made, staff could begin a dialogue with patrons for what changes they would like to see: a virtual focus group, to be harnessed free of charge.

Picture this?

For me, blogging and photography go hand in hand. Often, in mainstream media (and even for the paper I contribute to), only one shot – of a dish, the chef, or the interior – is ever published. What I always longed for – and what blogs gave me – was a visual feel for the establishment, even before I ever set foot in the place. Some large publications have, to their credit, recognized this hunger and have developed multimedia components in an effort to provide information alongside visual aids (this is a recent example from the NYT), but such endeavours are few and far between for most publications.

Over the past two years, my personal approach to photography has evolved. There was a time where I indiscriminately used flash and a time that I posted sweeping shots of restaurant interiors filled with fellow diners – without much thought. Now, I carry a small three-inch tripod with me at all times, in order to maximize what light is available in the room, and I refrain from uploading pictures that include other patrons. I have taken interior shots for my own use when blogging about an experience, but only because I’m not the type to take notes during a meal.

One blogger suggested that permission should be acquired prior to taking photos on a restaurant’s private property. On that, I disagree, because such an act is tantamount to announcing one’s presence and intention. While I wouldn’t mind notifying restaurants of my review after the fact, I wouldn’t want staff to potentially modify their service in any way simply because a critique is in order. Liane Faulder agrees, and Ruth Reichl, formerly a NYT restaurant critic, practically made a career out of disguising herself (and wrote a bestselling memoir about her experience), precisely to avoid the circus that would arise out of recognition.

For restaurants like 100 who may have an official policy against personal photography, I would invite them to post it on the door of their establishment. In June, Chef David Chang banned food photography at his high-profile New York eatery Momofuku Ko – so diners are given the choice to either lose their cameras or their coveted reservation.

On the other side, some chefs welcome the publicity and recognition of their work. For example, Sebastian Lysz is personally “flattered” when people want to photograph his food. And when it comes down to dishes, I have to agree with Lau’s assessment: “I don’t ask permission to take shots of my own food, which I consider to be a product that I have paid for and am free to do with what I please.”

As a blogger, it is in my best interest to ensure that restaurants are well-equipped to look for, and respond to reviews. Much like Lazarenko, I welcome feedback. So though I will continue blogging without looking back, I hope that local eateries begin to look forward, and join in on the conversation.

Culinary Q & A with Lea Alcantara

Occupation: Chief Hired Gun of Lealea Design.

What did you eat today?

Breakfast was two eggs and two pieces of toast. Lunch was a tuna salad sandwich. Dinner is broiled marinated lamb loin chops in red wine, garlic, onion and rosemary, with leftover whole wheat penne and some bottled generic tomato/basil sauce.

What do you never eat?

This is hard because I will almost eat anything. The one thing I will never eat is this Filipino “delicacy” called “balut” — it’s basically aborted duck egg. Seriously. Can I have my eggs unfertilized, please?

What is your personal specialty?

Probably chicken cashew stir fry. So easy. So tasty. 🙂

What is your favorite kitchen item?

My 8″ Global chef knife. Beautiful, light, and very functional.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

It will be a buffet of mostly ethnic items. So I can have a little bit of everything, pause in between to settle, and eat some more. If a gun was pointed at my head and I really only had to have a 3 course meal: calamari to start, lobster and scallop linguine in a spicy rose sauce, and tiramisu.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Double Greeting Wonton House. Rob (my hubby) and I always order their Wor Wonton, and then one other random item. One of the few places where you feel full and spend less than $20 that isn’t a pho or fast food joint.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

So hard to narrow down, but I will have to say Il Pasticcio is probably the best. Nice ambiance, comfy atmosphere, great service, good looking chefs — we like the fact that the kitchen is open to the public, and the head chef my sisters and I call Chef Handsome. Oh, and the prices are pretty decent.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I think it would be fun to be part of a Hawaiian luau. First of all, it fits my wish of “buffet of mostly ethnic items” while it’s set in a beautiful beach during sunset outdoors, and lots of happy people. Mm, live pig roasts… and seafood!

Food Notes

  • My latest Vue Weekly article was published this week, about a “Veggie Donair World Premiere” taking place at the Hydeaway All Ages Art Space on Wednesday.
  • Vue reported on Thursday that Four Rooms in City Centre has closed: “Henry Song, owner/operator of the City Centre establishment, commented to Vue Weekly that he regrets closing on such short notice. He offered no explanation beyond that the timing was right. He regrets any difficulty caused to clientele, musicians and his staff. He has expressed a desire to continue to work in the food and entertainment industry.” What’s up with all of these recent closures?
  • Lea told me about a new Thai restaurant on the north side called Stephanie’s Thai and Lao Fusion Cuisine. It was reviewed this week in Vue as well.
  • Mack sent me a link to Sassy Cakes, a new home-based cupcake business. They’re also on Twitter.
  • All eyes on the maple leaf: Susur Lee’s debut in New York doesn’t make him flinch at all. A NY blogger I read was lucky enough to go to the Gourmet media event alluded to in the article – her thoughts are here.
  • Mack downloaded the Urban Spoon app to his iPod Touch last week, and I will admit that it was rather fun to play with (the columns can be flicked like a slot machine, but shaking of the iPod will yield a random result – too cool). I hope they add Edmonton to their list of cities soon!
  • Does kids’ cuisine reign supreme? It seems to be the trend, writes Misty Harris.
  • Also on the subject of children – I am tempted to describe the 12 year old food critic in an NYT story as “precious”, but something tells me he would bristle at that label.
  • In a case of ‘coulda, shoulda, woulda’, had I known Starbucks would wholly change their line of mints – from the tiny, power-packed kind to large, money-grabbing tablets, I would have stocked up on the small boxes (pictured below on the right). While the larger case is sleek, it makes me feel a little like a dealer of some kind every time I slide it open.

 

New vs. Old Starbucks Peppermints

Culinary Q & A with Sue Robins

Occupation:  Freelance writer, owner of Apostrophe S.  Mom to three.  Wife to one. Volunteer to many.

What did you eat today?

Poached eggs and corned beef hash, grilled gouda, avocado and red onion sandwich on ciabatta, Italian sausage and risotto with butternut squash. 

What do you never eat?

Green peppers and pork hocks, ugh.

What is your personal specialty?

Risotto of all shapes and sizes and cajun bread pudding.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

My lemon zester.  I heart it.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

A big glass of Nk’Mip’s Meritage wine.  My husband’s fusilli with Italian sausage, fennel and red chilis.  My daughter Ella’s lemon meringue pie.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

I love Leva for their cappuccinos, pastries, gelati and lunch panino.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton? 

I adore Culina for special night out.  It is dark, intimate and very romantic.  The service is perfect.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

Ah, this is a cliché, but true – Italy!  Specifically, rural Italy, in a region called Abruzzo, on a little olive oil farm called Le Magnolie.  The Nonna of the house does the cooking, and it is simple, hearty, fresh and belissimo!  I am at her mercy, but hopefully she’d serve a big plate of antipasto, homemade gnocchi nestled perched on fresh tomato sauce and garlic, roast turkey with lemon and rosemary and warm pizzelles with homemade cherry jam.

Service No Man’s Land: Sutton Place Hotel

I’ve written positively before about the Christmas buffet offered at the Sutton Place Hotel (10235 101 Street), so count me as surprised when a recent visit to their twice-weekly Chocoholics Buffet turned out to be a less-than-stellar experience.

Janice wanted to check out the dessert event as part of her birthday night out, and May, Annie and myself were more than happy to oblige. $16 per person seemed a small amount to pay for the right to gorge out on a variety of chocolate sweets, especially when the price included an alcoholic beverage.

We knew from the website that the buffet was open from 5-10pm, so we had a relatively large window to make it down there. After a bite to eat at Lazia, we walked over to Sutton Place and headed straight for the main floor lounge, where the buffet was supposed to be set up.

There is apparently live jazz to accompany the buffet on the last Thursday of every month. That really would seem to be the best time to visit, as the ambiance was lacking that night – the only music we could hear drifted down from the restaurant proper a floor above us, just barely overshadowing the natural buzz of a hotel lobby. The lounge itself was also extremely dim – there were a few peripheral lamps that did their best to make up for a lack of overhead lights, but we found ourselves wishing for a tabletop candle or two.

We hoped the food would make up for the aesthetics of the lounge, and the spread looked quite promising. There were over ten varieties of desserts, including cheesecake, creme puffs, chocolate shooters, a brownie pizza, and a mousse cake. A silver vessel also contained warm chocolate to drizzle over fruit, but best of all, they had a staff member available to make crepes. And like vegetarian entrees on steakhouse menus, they did have a few non-chocolate desserts, including a plain vanilla cake.

Chocoholics Buffet spread

We found a table and waited a few minutes for one of the two waitresses to acknowledge our presence, but our patience waned. At some point, we decided to be proactive and simply load up our table with plates, hoping that might alert the staff that we needed some assistance.

Crepes were up first for all of us. Kim, the chef on hand, provided a nice personal touch to the experience. We asked her about how busy the buffet was on a typical evening, as there was only one other customer dining alongside our group, and she said that during a busy period (such as CFR week), around 7-10 patrons would frequent the buffet. That seemed to me like an awfully low number (particularly if such busy swings were few and far between) for the Sutton Place to continue to offer such a spread twice weekly. She assured me that the food didn’t go to waste, and as employees were given a three-course meal after every shift, that all of the leftovers would be consumed by staff.

Kim busy behind her station

Back to the crepes – once she folded over the crepe, we were able to choose from a variety of sweet and savoury toppings. I decided to add strawberries, chocolate, and sliced almonds to my chewy crepe. It was quite good, and knowing we could go back for seconds and thirds was a reassuring thought.

My personalized crepe

We tackled the main dessert table next, and I attempted to taste a little piece of everything. After careful deliberation (and three plates), I decided I liked the flourless chocolate cake the best. It was moist, the texture was just right, and though it was fairly rich, I appreciated the dense chocolate flavour. The chocolate-dipped strawberries came in a close second.

Plate #2

After we had returned to our table with our first “courses”, the waitress did come to take our drink order. When asked if they had any dessert wine, she told us that we should be drinking a less sweet wine so as to not take away from the desserts. I would be the first to admit that I am by no means a wine snob, but all of us at the table knew that she was wrong. She poured us all a white wine, which ended up being quite nice, but we were off-put by her initial error.

The service didn’t improve over the evening, as by the end of our stay, just one waitress was left in the area. We actually felt really bad for her – I’m sure the short staffing was a product of the boom – but it made our experience less noteworthy on a positive level.

While the buffet is a good deal, and those who like chocolate should definitely look into it, don’t expect to get more out of it than a meal to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Us, ten pounds heavier

Sutton Place Hotel
10235 – 101 Street
(780) 428-7111 
Chocoholics Buffet every Thursday and Friday, 5-10pm

Food Notes

  • I’m sure most of my blog readers have seen the Journal article that was published in part about this website on Wednesday. I was asked on Twitter about how I felt being on the other side of the interview card, and I have to say, not having control over what will be printed has made me more aware of what I write after conducting an interview. For the most part though, I’m happy with the article. And for those who are curious – my stats shot up the three days following the article (doubling my usual traffic), and has since slipped back into the same rhythm it has held over the past few months.
  • Kimmi tipped me off that Kai Asian Grill (which I had mentioned as Tao a while back), at 100, 10909 Jasper Avenue, just opened. They have a pretty decent website.
  • A second Famoso Neopolitan Pizzeria will open in Terwilligar in January (142 St & 23 Ave). It seems to me the South West is the place to be these days, at least for new places to chow.
  • They really are many-fingered, via Mack – a Caffe Sorrentino is going into West Edmonton Mall.
  • A new tea shop opened in Southgate Mall (11100 51 Avenue) recently, called Tea Desire. There really is a growing demand for “gourmet” tea in the city.
  • I met the Studio Manager of D’Lish over the weekend – he said the grand opening will be in early December, but they are already open for lunch. Check out the menu on the website.
  • With Vancouver’s very successful Salt, and now Farm in Calgary, will a charcuterie-serving wine bar be the next big thing in Edmonton?
  • The Edmonton Journal gave a disappointed review of Hundred over the weekend, while See Magazine offered a thumbs up for The Hat.
  • Foodie Suz very bravely wrote about her $2000/month grocery bill on her blog. Brave to me in particular because I don’t really keep track how much I spend on food…
  • Open Table teamed up with over 1300 restaurants in the U.S. to come up with an “Appetite Stimulus Plan”, offering discounted lunch and dinner deals. How long until these kinds of discounts come to Canada?
  • Starbucks unveiled their 2008 Red Cup on November 13. I couldn’t resist popping by for my favourite drink – the newly-renamed Gingersnap Latte. Yum!

 

Gingersnap Latte

Mixed Makeover: Lazia

In the past on this blog, I have mentioned  my disdain for Lazia (10200 102 Avenue). However, after being wowed earlier this year at their newest outpost, the Wildflower Grill, I was in the right frame of mind to give Lazia another try, especially after seeing that their downtown location had been completely remodelled, from the interior to the menu. I had trust that Chef Yoshi Chubachi could spread some of that Wildflower magic to the rest of Lazia’s holdings.

Prior to a show at the nearby Citadel Theatre, Mack and I headed to the restaurant with with expectations in check. We were greeted by a hostess, and immediately taken past the lounge, into the dining room, and offered a choice seat in a rounded banquet. Plush and large enough to easily accommodate a party of five, we enjoyed the semblance of privacy our table provided us.

The decor in the dining area hadn’t changed as much as in the lounge. I was happy to see that the blown-glass sculpture had been saved through the renovation, but besides some minor furniture adjustments, the core of the dining room seemed to have remained the same (granted, my image of the restaurant is several years old). The lounge, however, was now sleek and sophisticated, with the back wall a popping orange shade, a bar with ample seating situated in the centre, and a small glass area in the front lined with couches – perfect for a girls night out.

Dining area

I was most excited about the potential of the new menu. While it did look a lot better on the outset than what I remembered, it was a bit scattered (though to be fair, most mid-range restaurants Lazia is trying to compete with have the same problem). I did really like the fact that there were two streams of desserts to choose from – a range of $8 regular desserts and a set of $5 plates to satisfy those just looking for something small.

I ended up ordering the roasted butternut squash Ravioli ($23) in a white truffle rosé sauce, while Mack opted for the Colossal Prawns ($25), served with a laundry list of accompaniments, including a panko crusted crab cake, cooked shrimp ceviche, miso soya sugar snap peas, basmati rice, sweet
pineapple curry and tomato & corn confit.

Service was great throughout, much improving my outlook on Lazia. Our food was also delivered quite promptly, with a flare for plate presentation – our dishes were treated like pieces of art, the white plates an empty canvas for visual design. The portion sizes, however, left much to be desired – though Mack enjoyed his meal, he could have easily consumed two of the same. My pasta was too sweet all around, between the filling, the sauce, and the accent vegetables – I found no delicate interplay between flavours (as with Rob Feenie’s masterful interpretation at Cactus Club Bentall 5).

Colossal Prawns

Ravioli

Overall, we found the Lazia dining room to be a local, but pricier version of the upscale casual brand purported by the Earls and Joeys of the world. We’d be back to try the desserts, but probably after a cheaper meal elsewhere.

I was back at Lazia sooner than I had expected – a two days after my meal with Mack, a few girlfriends and met up for a bite to eat in the lounge. I now have a better appreciation for the reason why food reviewers at major newspapers visit restaurants multiple times to sample dishes off all parts of the menu – I was ready to give Lazia a thumbs up after our dinner, but following our lounge experience, I’d include a small asterisk on that recommendation.

While the lounge was busy, it wasn’t as packed as we thought it would be on a Friday evening. Though it was clear that our party was still waiting for one more, none of the waitresses thought to check on us to see if we wanted to order anyway – a clear twenty minutes passed before we were acknowledged by any of the staff members after sitting down.

Eventually, we were asked to order. The small plates ranged from $6-12, the dishes influenced by the same haphazard “world cuisine” philosophy that dominated the entree side of the menu. I ended up choosing the Ginger Beef ($9), Janice and May the Garlic Prawns ($12), and Annie the Patatas Bravas ($6), or Spanish home fries, because the kitchen had run out of sweet potato fries.

The kitchen was thankfully more together than their floor counterparts, and our dishes were delivered in good time. Based on our sampling, we weren’t too impressed with the appetizers – my ginger beef was barely above the standard served at Beijing Beijing, while Janice couldn’t taste any garlic in her prawns. Annie’s dish sounded great on the outset, but really, the home fries were really a fancy name for potato wedges.

Ginger Beef

Garlic Prawns (served with smoked tomato bruchetta)

Patatas Bravas (served with a really well-executed red onion watermelon salad)

Also worth mentioning was an out-of-place employee who, while well-intentioned, put us off. She came by our table twice, leaned her elbows on the table, and almost seemed like she was going to pull up a chair to join our group. She asked about the occasion of our get-together, and about how we felt about our food thus far. We didn’t hesitate to answer her questions, but the way in which she asked seemed awkward and forced – an attempt at connecting with customers that failed.

And so, the asterisk – the lounge, with a vibe for those to see and be seen (similar to Hundred), is chic for an after-work drink, but for food, choose the mains over the appetizers.

Lazia
10200 102 Avenue (one other location)
(780) 990-0188
Sunday, Monday and holidays 11am-10pm, Tuesday to Saturday 11am-midnight
Appetizers $6-12, Entrees $9-43, Desserts $5-8