Off the Beaten Path: Oriental Veggie House

I took it upon myself to accompany a visiting consultant for lunch, and having worked with her over several months, thought I knew her well enough to suggest we try a new place within walking distance of the office. As it was one of those gloriously sunny spring days, I thought the brisk walk would do us both good, a refreshing change from the morning long fluorescent-lit meeting.

On Chowhound, the two most frequent responses to the question, “Where can I get good vegetarian/vegan fare?” is Padmanadi and Oriental Veggie House (both lean heavily on soy and taro root products to create a “meat”-like texture). I had been to the former for their monthly buffet, and was curious to see what the latter had in store.

We reached the restaurant just after noon, and found it empty on a Friday. Though that wasn’t a good sign, the friendly proprietor quickly greeted us and led us to a table. The space was larger than I had expected from the outside, and filled with natural light from a bank of windows. Décor was minimal, and though I pointed out to my dining companion that the vinyl tablecloth was in dire need of replacement, our surroundings were pleasant enough.

The menu, printed in an attractive font and bound on thick cardstock, was a pleasant alternative to the large plastic-encased folders typically found at Asian restaurants. Though the combination for two ($28.50 for the specified soup, appetizer, and two entrees) looked interesting, my companion didn’t like the chosen dishes. So instead, we put together our own meal that included a seaweed and tofu soup ($5.95), shredded veggie tofu wrap ($5.95), country style tofu ($8.95) and rice noodles with veggie seafood ($9.50). We opted not to order rice due to the steep $5 charge.

Menu

Over the course of our meal, two other parties joined us, but for a restaurant in the Chinatown area with free parking, it was much too quiet. The upside to this of course, was quick service. We received our first course soon after putting in our order. As we had ordered the small, I was expecting a portion meant for an individual. Instead, we were confronted by a bowl that yielded each of us three servings, brimming with contrasting textures of crunchy seaweed, silky tofu, and pea poppers. The broth was not overpowered by seaweed flavour though, and I found the mildness to be the perfect way to start off the meal.

Seaweed and Tofu Soup

The intriguing tofu wraps were next – I ordered them purely based on the concept, thinking it would be the healthy equivalent of a spring roll. It turns out tough bean curd was used to enfold shredded carrots and bean sprouts, among other vegetables, then pan-fried. The wraps were actually quite greasy, and without the crunch that I was hoping for.

Shredded Veggie Tofu Wraps

The next two dishes came fast and furious, and we struggled to keep up. The country style tofu was reminiscent of a dish that could be ordered at most Chinese eateries serving more traditional fare. Filled with plump cubes of tofu and vegetables, we both wished we had ordered the rice after all – rice would have been the perfect way to soak up the delicious sweetness of the sauce. The rice noodles in our second entree were moist and cooked well, but I wasn’t too fond of the overly chewy “seafood”.

Country Style Tofu

Rice Noodles with Seafood

Our lunch totalled about $40 (with a $3 pot of tea), definitely not inexpensive when compared with other area establishments. The owner did point out their two chest freezers containing products that customers could take home to prepare themselves. For example, a popular item was their faux chicken.

Oriental Veggie House did provide an interesting alternative to the usual Asian cuisine, and is worth a try if you’re looking for something different.

Oriental Veggie House
10586 100 Street NW
(780) 424-0463

Crumb Explosion: Van Loc

I needed a quick lunch stop en route to Lucky 97 for a few groceries, so decided to take the opportunity to visit Van Loc in Chinatown.

My usual banh mi haunt is Nhon Hoa 2 on 97th Street, but after two recent reviews in Vue and the Journal, I was curious to see what Van Loc had to offer, as both pieces noted that the baguettes they used were second to none.

I stopped in just after noon, and it was clear they were in the middle of their lunch rush – customers continuously filtered in for take out orders. The space was definitely larger than either Nhon Hoa or Kim Tuyet, and its predominantly white interior gleamed even brighter with the natural light provided by the bank of windows. I was happy to see there were three tables to allow for eating in, though they probably could use a good scrubbing (the disadvantage of having white furniture).

I looked at the menu briefly, but already knew I wanted my usual variety, the shredded pork banh mi ($3.50). After a brief wait, I received my sandwich in a white paper submarine bag. The sandwich I was given definitely beats their competitors in the size category. The amount of cilantro, pickled carrots and cucumber included also seemed more generous than others I’d received. As for the bread, I actually found it to be the weak link of the sandwich – it had been over-toasted to the point of being too hard, making it a little difficult to eat (and definitely messy; the requisite crumb explosions made me thankful I was eating alone).

Shredded Pork Banh Mi

As the other elements of the sandwich were good, I’d definitely be willing to give Van Loc another try, with perhaps a request to keep the toasting time down to a minimum.

Van Loc
10648 98 Street NW
(780) 413-8887

Solid Choice: Back Home Fish & Chips

On a lazy weekend when I didn’t feel inspired to cook, Mack and I decided to finally patronize Back Home Fish & Chips, just down the street from his apartment. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve been tempted by the wafting, intoxicating smell of good ol’ grease when passing by, but the circumstance to visit them didn’t present itself until now.

 Back Home Fish and Chips

The restaurant always looked so quaint from the outside, with their checkered tablecloths and large bank of windows letting in a healthy amount of natural light. When we walked in, we found it to be much the same as our external impression, and found a seat in a cozy booth. The rest of the diners in Back Home seemed to be made up of regulars, which didn’t surprise me. I find that most stalwart fish and chip fans will have one joint they believe to have the “best” product above all others in the city, and deign to listen to any other opinions (you would be hard pressed, for example, to convince my parents that anything other than Joey’s Only would offer them the quality and value for their dollar).

Menus

Our efficient waitress brought us menus and took our drink orders straightaway. While the menu did offer their namesake dish, they unfortunately did not offer a choice of fish – haddock was the only type available. On the bright side, I was surprised to find all types of seafood listed, from calamari to clams to cod tongues and cheeks. Their prices were fairly reasonable, meaning we probably could have split an appetizer without breaking the bank. We decided in the end to just proceed to the main course; I opted for the small fish and chips ($11.95), which contained three pieces of fish, while Mack was easily swayed by the shrimp and chips ($15.95).

Our dishes arrived in speedy fashion, helped by the fact that we were the only ones who put in an order at that point. Though both my fish and fries were a bit dark (perhaps signalling a need to change the oil), both for the most part were crispy. The kitchen definitely did not scrimp on portion sizes, and even with their smallest plate, I struggled to finish my meal. The light batter concealed an flaky and moist fish, fork tender underneath its shell. Mack also enjoyed his shrimp, which were flavourful and satisfying.

Small Fish and Chips

Shrimp and Chips

Final verdict: while our experience wasn’t unexceptional, it wasn’t particularly memorable either. So if a fish and chip craving were to hit us, we wouldn’t hesitate to return, but Back Home won’t become a destination restaurant either.

Back Home Fish & Chips
12323 Stony Plain Road NW
(780) 451-7871
Monday-Thursday 11:30am-9:30pm, Friday 11:30am-10pm, Saturday noon-9:30pm, Sunday noon-8pm

Culinary Q & A with Brittney Le Blanc

Occupation: I work in the newsroom for 630CHED/iNews880. I write, report, and do web site stuff. Basically, if it’s in the newsroom… I probably do it at one point or another. I also run the @iNews880 Twitter account.

What did you eat today?

So far? Just two cups of hot chocolate. I’ve had my vanilla yogurt sitting beside me at work for about 4 hours now… so, hold on one second. Okay, I’ve had two cups of hot chocolate and a spoonful of vanilla yogurt.

What do you never eat?

I don’t ever eat nuts or peanuts due to allergies. But I also try to never eat onions or potatoes. I have a hate for green onions which I find places tend to add onto EVERYTHING. It’s not a welcome surprise on my plate.

What is your personal specialty?

I can cook a mean Mu Shu spin off. I use chicken instead of pork and add peppers, mushrooms, and rice noodles.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

Ketchup. Which goes perfectly with my weekday meal standbys.

What is your weekday meal standby?

Either Chicken Nuggets, Fries, and Green Beans or Mac and Cheese. Both easy and fairly cheap.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

My dishwashing brush. I hate washing dishes, but don’t have a dishwasher… this handy brush is efficient and allows me not to touch gross dishwater.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Chicken Mushroom Lasagna, steamed broccoli and cauliflower, a slice of carrot cake (without nuts) and a glass of ice wine. Alternatively, a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and a glass of milk. The world ends tomorrow — if I die from my allergies, it’s only speeding the process.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Probably the southside location of Silcilian Pasta Kitchen. My family discovered it a few years back and we go there for family dinners from time to time.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

I would have to say the Bul Go Gi House. I’ve been going since I was a little girl. Service is almost always fast and friendly, and the food is absolutely delicious!

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I’ve never given it much thought. Maybe I’d go to Hell’s Kitchen… I would order scallops and risotto. Those always seem so difficult to cook, but I’d love to try the finished product.

Follow Brittney on Twitter here.

Food Notes for May 11, 2009

In exactly a week, I’ll be in D.C. with Mack! So looking forward to a vacation long overdue. In the meantime, I have some notes to share:

  • It seems Ching’s Asian Kitchen and Dim Bar (10154 100 Street) was not meant to last – we caught a sign taped up on its door thanking customers for their patronage.
  • Boualouang has relocated to their revamped, larger space down the block! Their new address is 10569-97 Street.
  • Mack and I swung by La Piazza Dasee (8004 Gateway Boulevard) over the weekend, and we both wondered why they bothered opening at all – nearly half of the store  (and all of the cafe) is still under active construction. Perhaps check them out in a few weeks to see how they’ve progressed.
  • If you were waiting for another opportunity to try out Eric Ng’s veggie donair (I tried one back in November), you’ll have it on May 12.
  • There are so many opportunities to get involved in the local food system right now. Take a survey about how committed you are about buying local over at the Greater Edmonton Alliance website (until May 15), sign up for the Good Food Project, or support the newest Community Supported Agriculture endeavour in Edmonton, Greens Eggs & Ham.
  • The Journal wrote about the coffee cupping experience at Transcend over the weekend. It’s sure to just heighten the demand for their monthly tastings. You can read about the experience Mack and I had last July here and here.
  • Some of the city’s premiere cake creators are featured in an article in Avenue Magazine this month.
  • Congrats to the marketing team at NAIT for their national award from the Canadian Public Relations Society in the social media category. They are being recognized for their innovative approach in engaging the public during Chef Rob Feenie’s whirlwind time in Edmonton.
  • I was following the live tweets from the James Beard Awards last week, but it seems I only caught the tail end. The Edible Prairie wrote about Jennifer McLaglan, this year’s winner for Best Cookbook, Fat: an Appreciation for a Misunderstood Ingredient with Recipes.
  • This is too cool: the green pizza box of the future.
  • I prefer Pagolac’s southside location to their Chinatown haunt, and I was reminded why when I stopped by for lunch last week. I ordered my usual dish (medium rare beef), and was presented with a bowl of lukewarm soup. It was so mild in temperature that the beef didn’t have the opportunity to lose its pink hue. I’ll be sticking to the southside branch in the future.

Pho from Pagolac

  • There’s nothing like kicking off the warm weather with Fat Franks, eaten fresh off the grill outdoors. Yum!

My Jumbo Dog (the toasted bun makes all the difference)

Mack is happy with his Cheese Dog

  • It also just doesn’t seem like summer without an iced brewed coffee from Starbucks, and I was able to have my first of the season last week. I have to remember to get a shot of sweetener in it the next time I order it though!

Ah, a coffee and a book out on the patio

“The kitsch is off the wall”: Montana’s

While Mack’s dad was in town last weekend, we went for dinner at Montana’s. Part of the Cara Family of restaurants (which includes Harvey’s, Swiss Chalet, and Milestones), I’ve never really had the inclination to visit the chain disguised as rustic log cabins. At the same time, I was curious to see what they had to offer in terms of food – they’re aggressively promoting their new menu with television ads featuring talking moose and deer heads – a bit of whimsy for a restaurant I always considered to be more adult than family focused, at least by judging from the outside.

Because of this, I was surprised to find that the kitsch, as Mack described, was “off the wall” – literally. We walked inside to find a glaring red truck suspended from the roof, a wooden canoe raised above tables, and light fixtures made from “antlers” hung from the ceiling. It appeared the décor had some conflicting identities, however, as chalet posters and skis in one corner seemed out of place. Kim was looking forward to seeing the aforementioned moose and deer heads, and we were actually lucky enough to be seated directly beneath them.

Interior

Kim with mascots

The interior helped facilitate Montana’s casual, family-friendly atmosphere. Servers were dressed in the standard Kara uniform (button up shirt), decidedly pleasant, but necessarily breezy. Every table was overlaid with a fresh sheet of brown butcher paper, which seemed wasteful when the only apparent purpose of it was for our server to note her name down in black crayon.

The menus had just been redone (as indicated in the commercials), and were similar in build to the newer Swiss Chalet, leather-bound books. Improving the quality of the physical menu is a move that many in the restaurant industry are making in an attempt to elevate the value of the establishment in the customer’s eyes.

The feature sheet encapsulated the new items, including cedar roasted salmon and fire-grilled mushroom chicken. As a whole, the menu mirrors Outback Steakhouse and Tony Romas, with an emphasis on grilled entrees like ribs, burgers, and steak. Of course, diversity is the key to mass appeal, and a fair share of salads and pastas also make an appearance. I decided on the BBQ beef brisket with a side of seasonal vegetables ($11.79), while Mack chose one of the advertised specials, the Mediterranean goat cheese chicken ($16.99) and a side of Caesar salad.

The wait for our food wasn’t long and was well-paced between salad starters and mains. I have to admit my plate looked pretty bare – the single crown of broccoli side had me convinced I should have ordered fries instead. My sandwich wasn’t half bad, however – I liked the smoky barbecue sauce used, and for the most part, the brisket fulfilled its promised tenderness. Mack liked his chicken (especially the goat cheese), but thought it was nothing special.

BBQ Beef Brisket

Mediterranean Goat Cheese Chicken

As a whole, there was nothing off-putting about our experience at Montana’s, but then again, there was nothing particularly notable either. I was glad to have tried it to satisfy my curiosity, but I don’t think I’ll be back on my own accord.

Montana’s
3816 17 Street (2 other locations in Edmonton)
(780) 462-8789

Coffee Refills are a Deal Breaker: Two Rooms

After a too-early weekend wake up call to witness the official opening of the new McKernan/Belgravia and South Campus LRT stations, Mack and I were on the lookout for a hot lunch on Whyte. We had swung by the Just Food Edmonton launch (where the poor gals had to bundle up tight in the wind) and picked up a few things at the Old Strathcona Market, but my fingers still hadn’t quite regained their feeling from forty five minutes outside in the chill.

I remembered the quaint Two Rooms from a visit about two years ago, and Mack, as always, ceded to my suggestion. Though our initial table was at the rear of the restaurant, as soon as the party departed from the prime and only window seat, we snagged it, freeing ourselves from the dark, dungeon-like quality of the rest of the space. The stone accents and dark furniture likely plays better in the evening, where the spot lamps would have more of an affect.

We were given breakfast menus, though in hindsight, I would have appreciated the option of the lunch menu as well, though our waiter didn’t proactively offer it to us. I was ultimately happy with my choice of the Mexican Breakfast Burrito ($10) though, while Mack opted for the scrambled eggs, cheddar and green onion sandwich ($10). We also ordered two cups of coffee ($2 each), and were agog when we found that Two Rooms charges $1 for refills – I couldn’t remember if this had been on the menu during my previous visit, but it is definitely something that would hinder future breakfast calls. One of the treats, in my opinion, of dining out for brunch is the unlimited access to coffee, facilitating the lazy, leisurely mornings that are so few and far between.

The restaurant started to fill up after we entered, and we counted ourselves lucky, having put our order in just before the crowd arrived. Felicia and Jeff joined us a little later, and found themselves having to wait quite a bit longer for their food.

Presentation isn’t a strong suit of Two Rooms – there was not a garnish to be found on either of our plates, and a bit too much white space to be seen. The portion size was also a little on the small side, though it may not have been a bad change from our usual gluttonous breakfasts. I found my burrito wonderfully crisp on the outside, and wrapped tightly enough to prevent any need for a bib. The chorizo sausage surprised me with a spicy kick, and accompanied with the egg, was a lovely meal. I couldn’t taste any black bean, however, but wasn’t sure I missed it anyway.

Mexican Breakfast Burrito

Mack found his sandwich to be all right – I tried a bite and found that the avocado spread wasn’t as overpowering as I had anticipated.

Scrambled Egg Sandwich

We made sure to be frugal with our coffee, and drank it slowly. As a result, I think our experience wasn’t as enjoyable as it could have been, and we didn’t end up lingering as long as we usually do at brunch. Though the food and service was fine for the most part (the server’s humour was a little too dry for our taste), Two Rooms wouldn’t be a brunch destination for me in the future – free coffee refills are a deal breaker.

Two Rooms
101-10324 82 Avenue NW
(780) 439-8386

Better on the Outside: Fantasia Noodle House

“Elusive” is the word that best describes Fantasia Noodle House. The charming red door and cheery blue window and awning beckoned me to visit, but only open from 11am-2pm on weekdays, its limited hours and closed sign taunted me.

Exterior

Finally, on a day where I was nearby for a daylong training session, I was able to make it through the open doors. I managed to snag the last table, a two-seater near the kitchen at the rear of the restaurant. Fantasia was absolutely buzzing, with a crowd that looked to me like mostly regulars. I glanced at the menu briefly, which contained a mix of the usual suspects of Westernized Chinese rice and noodle dishes, along with some Vietnamese favourites, including vermicelli bowls. Although the small voice in my head pushed me towards the day’s special (a vermicelli bowl with grilled chicken, spring roll and soup), as soon as I saw the words “beef noodle soup” ($7), I knew that’s what I wanted.

I was given a small pot of tea, which was a great accompaniment to the book I had brought along, particularly when my food hadn’t arrived at the twenty minute mark. When my pho was finally delivered, I counted myself lucky, as the pair next to me had to wait around thirty five minutes for their food.

Beef Noodle Soup

I have to say I was disappointed with my dish – the raggedy shards of beef were not bad, but what I had hoped would be a flavourful soup base was unfortunately bland. Though I knew what I was getting into – pho isn’t Fantasia’s specialty – it was definitely a below average meal.

Because I’m not in the neighbourhood often enough to make the trek to Fantasia to catch their limited hours, I can’t say I’ll be back. But based on my sub-par experience, I’m not sure it’d be worth the effort anyway.

Fantasia Noodle House
10518 Jasper Avenue
(780) 428-0943
Monday-Friday 11am-2pm

VIP Treatment: Cactus Club Cafe

After my one-on-one with Rob Feenie back in February, I was looking forward to the spring opening of the Edmonton flagship Cactus Club Cafe in West Edmonton Mall. Turns out, it was worth the wait.

We were invited to attend an exclusive preview reception on Wednesday evening, which was to include samples of some new menu items. What we received, however, was more than I ever expected – a slick eight course tasting menu with unlimited access to alcoholic beverages.

Purveyors of the now ubiquitous “casual upscale” form of dining (CCC just recently wrested the Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Award for “Best Casual Chain” from Earls), I know I was pretty impressed with my visit last summer to their Bentall 5 location in Vancouver. More than anything, I found the quality of the food to be leaps and bounds above their competition, so was eager to see if their standards would remain in place, transplanted in a new city.

Driving up to West Edmonton Mall on 88th Avenue, the restaurant is difficult to miss. Many of us wondered why Cactus Club chose to diverge from their competitors by choosing a location away from the always hoppin’ Bourbon Street, but it was clear from the exterior that they had much more control over the design this way. Unfortunately, the restaurant is only accessible from the outside, which may pose a problem for diners walking from the wall in more inclement weather, but for the moment, their ability to provide an outdoor patio will be very attractive to shoppers looking for a post-visit drink.

Cactus Club Cafe

Patio

Walking in, I was immediately greeted by staff, and told that we were free to explore the restaurant. The Director of Operations offered to give us a tour, and we happily accepted. It turns out the space was formerly occupied by an automotive repair shop, but you wouldn’t know it. If Kai Asian Grill cost $2 million to refurbish, we wondered how much Cactus Club spent.

Lounge Interior

I’m not sold on the combination of the medium wood paneling and red leather (I much preferred the sleek dark brown/black colour scheme of Bentall 5), but I get the feeling the designers tried to emulate a more “Western” feel. Mack liked the eye-catching glass wine case, while I was impressed with the art featured on the walls – three Andy Warhols and one Jean Michel Basquiat. The lighting fixtures were also a sight to see – our tablemate compared the “artichoke light” to an Outback Steakhouse Bloomin’ Onion, and the bocci chandelier was almost a waste having been placed in the bathroom corridor.

Restaurant interior (Warhol’s ‘truck’ on the wall)

Artichoke Light

A few members of Edmonton’s foodie community were also on hand to celebrate the launch, including the Journal’s Liane Faulder, and Isabelle of The Little Red Kitchen (watch for reports of the evening on their respective blogs). Of course, Rob Feenie was also present, and Mack pushed me to take a photo with him (I hope not to be remembered as the city blogger who posed for a photo).

With Chef Feenie

We shared a table with Brittney and Kimberley of iNews880, who helped make it a fun and festive evening. Even before we sat down, we were offered drinks by one of the nearly thirty servers on hand (throughout the night, plates and cutlery were distributed, drink orders were taken, and dishes cleared almost instantly – that kind of attentive service would be easy to get used to, but with a server to table ratio of 3:1 that night, it couldn’t be maintained). Our waitress said that a core team had been gathered together from established locations in order to adequately train the staff and ensure a smooth opening. It definitely speaks to the resources of a large chain to have such an efficient process in place.

Just before 7:30pm, the first dish arrived, a beef carpaccio served with five-herb crostini. The peppercorn-crusted tenderloin had been thinly sliced, and worked well with the dijon aioli, pickled shallots and shaved parmesan. I agreed with Britney – it was definitely a dish I wouldn’t order for myself, but I could see a plate being shared among a group.

Beef Carpaccio (lovely presentation with arugula)

My crostini

The tuna tataki was next – seared albacore tuna on a bed of green papaya slaw,orange, avocado and pine nuts. We were a table of non-sushi eaters, so were thrown by the texture of the fish. I have to say I enjoyed the tangy yuzu vinaigrette used on the vegetables, however.

Tuna Tataki

The plate of BBQ duck clubhouse sandwiches, a resounding favorite of Mack, Kimberley and I, was consumed in a flash. This is definitely a dish I would order on a return trip. The duck and prosciutto already elevated the sandwich, but combined with the sweet pecan fruit bread, was better than any sandwich I have tried in recent memory.

BBQ Duck Clubhouse

I had been looking forward to the butternut squash ravioli (the dish I had enjoyed in Vancouver), but perhaps it lost something when made for mass consumption. My serving also didn’t have enough amaretti cookie topping. It seems they also altered the dish somewhat for our branch, as it is served here with seared scallops.

Butternut Squash Ravioli

Rob Feenie’s signature rocket salad, consisting of organic arugula, vine ripened tomatoes, cucumber and a lemon caper dressing atop panko and parmesan-breaded chicken was one of my least favorite dishes. Not being a fan of capers, I found they overpowered the dish. Mack and Brittney found it all right though.

Rocket Salad

I was surprised to find the sake-soy marinated sablefish on the menu – delicate and flavourful, it was a dish I would expect to find not at a casual upscale restaurant, but at a more formal establishment. The fish was perfectly cooked, flaking under my spoon, and accompanied with a warming base of dashi broth (similar to miso soup), was the most impressive course that night.

Sake-Soy Marinated Sablefish

The penultimate course provided us with samples of their braised beef short rib and peppercorn sirloin. The steak had a punchy peppercorn crust, and had been cooked to a nice medium rare, but was a fairly run-of-the-mill dish. The braised short rib, however, was meltingly tender, and the celeriac puree provided a smooth finish.

Peppercorn Sirloin and Braised Beef Short Rib

Dessert was a pat of their chocolate peanut butter crunch bar. Kimberley and I lucked out, as our companions are allergic to peanuts, so we both got to indulge in two servings of rich dark chocolate with a crunchy finish. A spoonful of crushed peanuts on top would have made the dish even better for me.

Chocolate Peanut Butter Crunch Bar

Just before we left, we even received a goody bag to take home, containing a bottle of wine, a Cactus Club gift card, and (hurrah for me), a copy of their lunch and dinner menus.

Thanks to the staff of Cactus Club for a great evening – they definitely know how to throw a good party, and ensure their guests feel well taken care of. Based on tonight’s experience, I know I will be back. Cactus Club opens to the public on Thursday, April 23 at 4pm.

Mack’s photoset is here.

Cactus Club Cafe
1946, 8882-170 Street

A Bad Reaction: Sabzy Cafe

Though I do my best to make it back to eateries I’ve written about, sometimes it doesn’t happen until months later, mostly due to timing or geographic location. Sabzy Cafe, a Persian restaurant run by a lovely family I had the privilege of meeting with back in February, was one of those instances. When my sisters and I needed a spot for dinner in the Old Strathcona area to precede our night of fashion, I immediately thought of Sabzy.

We weren’t sure how busy it would be in the evening, so made sure to reserve a table in advance, but it turns out it wasn’t necessary. A few other parties arrived over the course of our stay, but by no means was the restaurant packed. I arrived before my two sisters, and chose the sunny table by the front window.

It’s an oddly designed space, by no fault of the Sabetghadams. With jagged corners and shadowy enclaves, the room can provide diners with a feeling of both privacy and isolation. The multicolored walls, bright with fall shades of deep yellow, purple, and a spring green did help bring some cheer into the cafe, but there was a reason why I was drawn to the windowside table.

Great spot for peoplewatching

Sabzy asserts its casual atmosphere by inviting customers to place their orders with staff at the counter. Though I am not adverse to this (one of my favorite cafes, Leva, is set up this way), the entrée I ordered was definitely priced at an amount where I would expect a different level of service. The kabob platter, with chicken and beef/lamb kabobs was $16.99. My sisters opted for something a bit lighter – the grilled chicken sandwich ($10).

A few minutes later, three glasses and a small jug of water were delivered to us. Our food arrived shortly after – both plates a mirror image of the photos included on the menu. I was happy to find that the meat had been taken off the skewers for me, and that the plate was piled high with a generous serving of full-bodied saffron rice. The chicken kabob was all right (it actually tasted similar to my Mum’s satay), but the lamb really shined – moist, flavourful, and grilled to perfection, I didn’t even miss a potential dipping sauce accompaniment.

Kabob Platter

I loved the mint garnish on the grilled chicken sandwich – a simple but effective way for the kitchen to remind diners of their fresh focus. Amanda found the sandwich good, albeit small (and pricey without an included side dish), but Felicia was left literally with ill feelings. After a single bite, her tongue started to feel fuzzy, and she leapt to ask the staff if the sandwich contained any nuts. Bingo – there were nuts in the pesto spread. The server was actually quite rude to Felicia, as she said this ingredient was listed on the menu – on our double take, we couldn’t locate it at all (ideally, there should be an asterisk next to all items containing the pesto, indicating the nuts used). The kitchen ended up remaking the sandwich, and provided Felicia with a sliced cucumber (which the family’s dad said would help cool the allergic reaction), but she was still itchy and bothered all evening. Needless to say, this left a blemish on our otherwise fair experience.

Grilled Chicken Sandwich

Having interviewed the family behind Sabzy, the fact that they are new to the restaurant industry may have played a part in their mistake, but it is one they will need to rectify straightaway. While I can’t say this situation will prevent me from visiting Sabzy in the future, I can tell you my sister won’t be back anytime soon.

Sabzy Cafe
10416 82 Avenue NW
(780) 758-1005
Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday 11am-9pm, Monday 3-9pm