Tailor-Made Pizzas: Urbano Pizza Co.

Although there is no question downtown Edmonton is blessed with its share of top-notch restaurants, there is definitely still room for more independent quick-serve options. That’s one of the reasons why I was happy to hear that Urbano Pizza Co. was moving into the neighbourhood, offering up another fast, casual alternative.

Interior

Urbano completes the trifecta of restaurants built by Christian Mena and Lino Oliviera, rooted into the Boardwalk with their adjacent establishments Sabor Divino and Bodega Tapas and Wine Bar. Urbano was not only inspired by the pizza trend in the U.S., but also a family-driven need to accommodate dietary restrictions. The concept allows for a completely customizable pie, factoring in the needs of celiacs, vegetarians and vegans.

Topping bar

Their investment in TurboChef ovens also help propel another selling feature of Urbano – speed. Freshly-prepared pizzas can be fired in 90-120 seconds, a new record in the city, and one that will not only make them a popular lunch destination but also, when the arena opens next year, a probable pre-game stop for many.

Last Thursday, too lazy to cook, Mack and I visited Urbano for dinner. While the handful of patio seats were taken, there was only one other party inside. I’m sure the word is still travelling about Edmonton’s newest pizzeria.

The former health food store has been transformed into a modern space, with pops of red accenting the mostly neutral colour palate. To emphasize the made-to-order nature of Urbano, the front counter is not unlike that of quick-serve sandwich joints, visually showcasing available ingredients. The ovens are front and centre, and allow customers to actually see the pizza baking in front of their eyes.

TurboChef ovens

That day, surveying our six pre-designed signature options, Mack and I settled on the bacon & eggs ($11.95) and Piri squared ($11.95). Customizable pizzas start at $11.95, and Urbano also serves salad and gelato (something that will be handy if the scorching temperatures continue).

After ordering, we had a seat, and the pizzas were brought to us (we didn’t time it, but it was pretty quick). The crust was very thin and crispy for the most part. The width also lent the pizza an overall quality of lightness, so would be attractive for those seeking a lighter meal.

Crust

Mack was impressed that his pizza actually had poached eggs on top that hadn’t been overcooked. Alongside back bacon, Caciocavallo cheese, and onion jam, Mack always enjoys breakfast-inspired concoctions for dinner, but didn’t find it particularly special.

Bacon & eggs pizza

The Piri squared featured some ingredients I haven’t had before on a pizza – piri-piri chicken, Portuguese chorizo, Limiano cheese, fire roasted red pepper sauce, shoestring potatoes and pickled vegetables. While I wouldn’t say they all complemented one another, it was nice to see a flavour connection to its sister restaurants.

Piri squared pizza

Service was friendly, and as mentioned before, efficient. Only time will tell if Urbano as a concept will take off, but given the near-universal love of pizza, it may one day stand as an example of adaptable fast food that doesn’t compromise quality.

Urbano Pizza Co.
110, 10220 103 Street
(780) 705-1885
Monday-Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm, closed Sundays

Boston Travels 2015

I’ve been so behind on my travel posts I’m resigned to the fact that I’ll never catch up. But writing about my trip to Boston in April with my sister Amanda is a start for me!

The decision to vacation in Boston was actually one of elimination. Amanda was finishing up her training in Toronto, so we decided to book what would be a short-haul flight for her. We’d both been to New York before, she’d been to Detroit recently, and Chicago was a place Mack forbid me to visit without him. So Boston it was, and with the promise of the Bruins and the Celtics making it to the post-season, we were optimistic that we could include some playoff action during the trip.

View from the rooftop deck of our AirBnB rental

Although only one of two teams would end up qualifying for the first round, we ended up with plenty to do outside of the city’s athletic achievements.

Boston’s connection to the American Revolution seems to be one of the main tourism draws. We ended up on a Freedom Trail tour led by a costumed interpreter. “Isaiah Thomas” was in his fifth season with the company, and his enthusiasm for history showed.

With Isaiah Thomas

The tour was informative and entertaining, with corny jokes woven throughout (Beantown Pub, across from the Old Granary Burial Ground, is the “only place you can have a cold Sam Adams while looking at…a cold Sam Adams”). The Americans on the tour definitely had a better grasp of the characters involved, but it gave us a good foundation to better appreciate the sites.

Old Granary Burial Ground

One of those sites was Boston Common, a green space near the State House that reminded me of The Mall in Central Park. The Common was an area set aside by the Puritans for the shared use of all. The playground was overrun with children that day, and on a less chilly day, I’m sure the adjacent wading pond would be equally full. It was a great centrally-accessible, family-friendly space that we could definitely see more of in Edmonton.

Boston Common

On the other side of Boston Common lay the country’s oldest botanical gardens. We braved the spring chill to take a ride in the pedal-powered swan boats and snapped a picture with the famous Make Way for the Ducklings bronze sculpture.

Swan boats

With the Ducklings!

Faneuil Hall, a legacy building for a wealthy merchant, was a touristy disappointment, though I am glad we sought out the adjacent Haymarket.

Haymarket

Far from a farmers’ market, the vendors hawked discounted produce from wholesalers needing to make room for new shipments. There was also limited seafood to be had.

Seafood options

The low prices were likely the reason the set-up of the merchants was so poor; tent poles restricting right of way, narrow thoroughfares not meant for large crowds.

Haymarket produce

We couldn’t get enough of Boston’s wide sidewalks, blossoming trees and brick and stone buildings.

Bricks and blooms

Beacon Hill was Amanda’s favourite neighbourhood, with its quaint streets and boutiques (it was also the home of, in our opinion, the best location of Second Time Around, a well-curated consignment store with multiple branches in the Boston area). I will say Boston’s lack of a grid system of streets was confusing to navigate; our first night was full of wrong turns and frustrations. I will also note that Bostonians, although friendly, were not the best at giving directions – we were sent the wrong way three times.

Too quaint Beacon Hill

Outside of Boston, we explored Cambridge for the better part of a day.

Bustling Cambridge Square

Honour system book sales were scattered around the area

The student-led Harvard tour was the highlight, with historic facts of the storied school intertwined with the guide’s personal anecdotes.

Our tour guide, Bobby, in the red sweater

Among other things, we learned that The Social Network was, in fact, not filmed on campus (productions have been officially banned since the 1970s), and that most students receive an average of $42,000 in financial aid.

Memorial Church

With “John Harvard”

The JFK Presidential Library and Museum in Columbia Point was also a destination for us.

JFK Presidential Library and Museum

The site itself was worth a visit, with a view of the Boston skyline, and a gorgeous atrium emblematic of hope and optimism.

Stunning atrium

But the exhibits were interesting too, outlining Kennedy’s Presidential campaign, his years in office (with a focus on the Cuban Missile Crisis) and Jacqueline Kennedy’s contributions to the preservation of White House history. A particularly intriguing annotated guest list by Ms. Kennedy for a dinner honouring the French Minister of Culture included the scratched out names of Mr. & Mrs. Irving Berlin, for not being “avant-garde enough”.

I loved the “If I were 21, I’d vote for Kennedy” pins

As mentioned, sports factored into our itinerary. Game 4 of the Cavaliers vs. the Celtics was the first live NBA playoff game for both Amanda and I, and though neither of us can claim to be big Celtics fans, we relished the opportunity to watch King James in person (his no-look pass in the first quarter was a sight to see). Unfortunately for the home fans, the Celtics were outmatched, and the Cavs completed the sweep.

The view from the nosebleeds

We both looked forward to joining our fellow Canadians at Fenway, to watch the Blue Jays take on the home team.

At Fenway!

The Red Sox are a religion in Boston, and it was amazing to see the surrounding streets of America’s oldest ball park come alive on game day (parking, if you were wondering, runs up to $50). Streetside vendors, program hawkers, and bustling patios created an atmosphere other cities would envy.

Yawkey Way

The Jays ended up losing that night (6-5 on a 9^th inning RBI), and the windchill was fierce, but we had a blast. I couldn’t wait for the eighth inning rendition of “Sweet Caroline”, and I wasn’t disappointed. I loved how the players just went about their business while the crowd was singing along.

What of the food, you ask? Amanda was sidelined with the stomach flu upon arrival to Boston, which somewhat limited our dining choices, at least initially. She was a trooper though, and we still managed to sample a variety of what Boston had to offer.

Food was a gateway into some of Boston’s neighbourhoods. Eater’s recommendation of Taiwan Café provided a reason to visit Chinatown, which, not unlike other Chinatowns in North America, had busy eateries but deserted streets after dark. Taiwan Café was packed mostly with college students, and offered cheap and tasty xiao long bao.

XLB from Taiwan Cafe

Our student Harvard guide had recommended a few North End establishments for us. Gennaro’s ended up being a let-down, with so-so food and no atmosphere to speak of (it was difficult to have any conversation while being watched by the host next to our table).

Passable carbonara from Gennaro’s

Café Vittoria, in operation since 1929, was a better recommendation, serving up delicious lattes and gelato in and amongst antique espresso machines and a soundtrack from the 50’s.

Sustenance at Café Vittoria

Mike’s Pastry was referred to us as a touristy destination worth skipping, but we’re glad we stopped by, even just to soak up the atmosphere of a North End institution.

Mike’s Pastry

Our lone brunch was had in Cambridge at the sister restaurant of a popular music venue. The Sinclair had a great vibe, and my favourite dining room of the trip, with large common tables and an industrial-chic aesthetic. The meat half of my chicken and waffle dish was great, but the waffle tasted a day-old.

The Sinclair

Chicken and waffles

For lunch after our Harvard tour, we sought out a tourist favourite, Mr. Bartley’s Burger Cottage, with politically incorrect names for all of their creations (for example, “the MBTA – Mass Broken Transit Authority”, referencing the disastrous February full of delays for beleaguered commuters). It was a place I knew Mack would love, with burgers cooked to preference and a haphazard décor cobbling together years of random additions.

At Mr. Bartley’s Burger Cottage

It was also a restaurant that had been “grandfathered in” so it was permitted to operate without a customer restroom, something we had never encountered before.

Medium rare(!) burger

Mei Mei, a brick and mortar restaurant borne from a successful food truck, was a bit of a disappointment. Selling its fusion dishes, we found that the Asian influences were just too subtle.

Pierogi dumplings from Mei Mei

Amanda was strong enough to brave seafood towards the end of our trip, so we visited the local chain Legal Sea Foods in Copley Place. I really enjoyed the New England clam chowder, and their tempura take on fish and chips wasn’t bad either.

Great clam chowder from Legal Sea Foods

Our favourite meal was easily Sweet Cheeks Q, a barbecue joint opened up by Top Chef alum Tiffany Faison. The interior had the perfect worn-in feel, if staged, and the food spoke for itself. The biscuits, served with a compound butter, were the best thing I ate in Boston.

Still dreaming of these biscuits

The lunch tray, with Heritage pulled pork and mac ‘n’ cheese, was no slouch either. And though the service had been great in Boston as a whole, Sweet Cheeks topped the list with their genuine and attentive staff. I almost wished we had eaten here earlier on in the trip so we could double back.

Pulled pork lunch tray

I’m not sure I will revisit Boston again (Chicago is up next!), but we had a nice time there. Like any large metropolis, there’s something for everyone, though I’d recommend at least taking in a Red Sox game if you’re visiting during the season.

Gourmet Hot Dogs on the Avenue: The Dog

Let’s call it the “Journal effect” – the overnight increase in business whenever a new restaurant is profiled or reviewed in the paper. Establishments and customers know this to be anecdotally true. It was certainly apparent the day Mack and I visited The Dog on Friday.

It was a coincidence that I had picked The Dog: we had yet to try it, and a pre-Rush dinner was a good excuse given it was conveniently on the bus route between our home and Rexall Place. But fresh from a review that Wednesday, there was no doubt the restaurant was scrambling to keep up – the servers shared that there was a line-up out the door for lunch that afternoon, and suspiciously, the diners around us also happened to be the average age of a Journal reader.

The Dog replaced the upscale casual restaurant concept Absolutely Edibles. In some ways, given the success of the neighbouring Sloppy Hoggs, it made sense for the owners to replicate the comfort food mantra in their sister space. The décor has changed quite dramatically, with a diner-esque bar asserting itself in the centre of the room, and a pantry of sorts in the back, with house-made accoutrements for sale. Unfortunately, the stone mosaic tables remained from the restaurant’s previous incarnation; hopefully they will be replaced at some point in the future with less fussy furniture.

Pantry wall

The menu was much more extensive than we anticipated. They have about a dozen signature dogs, created with a base of beef or beef and pork dogs made by Real Deal Meats. They also had house-made sausages of more exotic varieties – namely, kangaroo, alligator, wild boar and seafood. Rounding out the menu were a number of appetizers, milkshakes and desserts.

Mack and I stuck to the more tried and true on this visit – he ordered the Coney Island ($8), a beef dog topped with beef chili, cheddar, yellow mustard and diced onion, while my Trailer Trash ($8) beef and pork dog was topped with mac & cheese and bacon. We also ordered fries ($4) and onion rings ($5).

Coney Island and fries

We both agreed that the house-made buns were great – soft and yielding as they should have been. Similarly, the dogs themselves were snappy and full of flavour – these weren’t your average ballpark wieners! The toppings, however, were a bit disappointing – both the chili and mac and cheese wouldn’t be able to stand alone; to have enhanced the overall dog, they needed to have a punch all on their own.

Trailer Trash and onion rings

The portion sizes of the fries and onion rings were more than generous (how some managed to consume a dog, side and a milkshake was beyond me), and the entrée prices were reasonable. Service was friendly but brisk, understandably so, given the circumstances.

I’d definitely return to The Dog to try one of their more peculiar creations, but perhaps not for a few weeks, when the fervor has died down.

The Dog
9567 118 Avenue
(780) 424-6823
Tuesday-Sunday 11am-9pm, closed Mondays

Korean Street Eats in Old Strathcona: NongBu

Everything’s coming up Korean! With mainstream restaurants like Earls featuring bibimbap and Joey’s serving Korean fried cauliflower on their spring menus, with time, I’m sure other staples like bo ssam and Korean fried chicken might soon appear as well. But for a more authentic taste, Edmontonians have a few fairly new options to choose from, including Tofu House and NongBu. Mack and I decided to give NongBu a try, after seeing a spate of positive reviews.

Located in a former eyewear boutique just off Whyte Avenue, NongBu joins an already vibrant hospitality district. But despite the fact that they’ve only been open a few weeks, the vibe they are cultivating is spot on, and reminded us of some of the young and hip establishments we visited in Seoul.

The décor is minimal, with a focus on wood and polished concrete surfaces. They also made use of a large overhead wall as a fun projected movie canvas – who says art needs to be static?

Mack at NongBu

When we arrived, we only had to wait briefly for a table on the main floor. There is additional seating on a mezzanine level, and given the eagerness demonstrated by the staff to accommodate party sizes, relocating tables between the floors wasn’t a problem.

The menu at NongBu is focused, with a variety that spans about a dozen dishes. Most items are intended to be shared, so it’s a great option for those who enjoy small plates. Mack and I ended up ordering the royal ddukbbokki ($11), gemma rolls ($8.50) and the bo ssam for two ($32).

I probably expected too much from the ddukbbokki, hoping the dish would transport me back to the Seoul street food tour we did back in October. The sauce was pleasantly sweet, but the rice cakes were a little on the firm side for my taste. The black pepper was also a bit overpowering.

Royal ddukbbokki

The gemma roll was perhaps my favourite dish – I loved the chewy texture of the eggroll, and the beef and vegetable filling had been well cooked and seasoned.

Gemma roll

The bo ssam arrived as a beautifully plated platter and several small vessels containing soup and rice. The lettuce was certainly fresh, and we couldn’t complain about the quantity of meat included. That said, the pork was definitely meant to be consumed as a part of a wrap with a generous dab of chili sauce; without that added heat and seasoning, we found that the meat on its own was tender but bland.

Bo ssam

Our server was extremely gracious and humble, and apologized for the wait and timing of our food (even though we really didn’t find fault with either). But he seemed genuinely interested in ensuring we had a positive experience, so we appreciated the gesture.

Overall, while we did enjoy our evening at NongBu, we do think the kitchen can improve their consistency in the weeks and months to come. But given their focused menu, I am hopeful that NongBu will have a successful place among this current wave of Korean cuisine in Edmonton.

NongBu
8115 104 Street
(780) 989-0997

Sandwiches Worth Seeking: Farrow

With today’s return to winter, it seems even more distant, but before my trip to Boston, there wasn’t any better excuse than a gorgeous spring day to cross the river on foot and finally try Farrow’s much lauded sandwich creations.

When we arrived at around noon, the line was more than half a dozen deep, spilling out onto the sidewalk. The predominant aroma of bacon, wafting through the open door, kept us firmly rooted in place. The interior of the sandwich counter is predictably straightforward – sandwich art and a few window stools (though everyone ahead of us chose to eat al fresco on the picnic tables outside, or on the raised patio of its neighbouring sister restaurant, Three Boars). I will say I enjoyed Farrow’s simple line and carabineer chit system, to efficiently carry order information to the kitchen on the other end of the counter.

The chalkboard menu proclaimed that one of the four varieties had already sold out for the day. Mack and I both ordered the “grick middle” ($7.25), a name no doubt inspired by their fast food counterparts across the street. But the comparison stops there.

Our butcher paper-wrapped packages concealed a classic but well-made combination of ingredients – crackling bacon, a yolky fried egg, cheddar and a tangle of fresh arugula – you won’t find that at McDonald’s. But my favourite part of the sandwich was actually the bread – squishy and yielding, it let the “middle” sing. Consumed outdoors with a cup of cold brew coffee alongside it, Farrow provided us with the perfect low-key brunch. As a bonus, Farrow has a loyalty card – record 12 sandwiches on a punch card and the next one’s free!

We spent some more time exploring the businesses in “The Bridge District” (that name never took off, did it?), including dessert at Menchie’s and shopping at The Red Pony. It was a nice reminder of what awaits us on the other side of the river, which increasingly, seems to be anchored by Farrow. Get yourself to Farrow soon – it meets the hype and then some.

Farrow
8422 109 Street
(780) 757-4160
Monday, Wednesday-Friday 8am-4pm, Saturday-Sunday 9am-4pm, closed Tuesdays

At the Judges’ Table: the Fourth Annual Culinary Arts Cook-Off

Mack and I had the privilege of being asked to be a part of the judges’ panel for the fourth annual Culinary Arts Cook-Off, a fundraiser for Mount Royal School. It’s a great, volunteer-driven event; a convergence of talented chefs and good food all in the name of arts education. Samples of the dishes are just $2, so it’s easy to understand why the event has attracted large crowds over the years.

Live auction portion of the Culinary Cook-Off

I’d attended the Cook-Off before as a patron, but never as a judge. Our panel was made up of Mack and I, Tina Faiz from CBC and the Edmonton Journal, and returning judges Jennie Marshall from Yelp and Stanley Townsend from NAIT. In addition to the Judges’ Choice award, the chosen chef would also have the chance to compete in the pasta category of the Canadian Food Championships in July – talk about high stakes!

Each of the adult judges had also been paired with a student from Mount Royal, who had each written a winning essay to earn their spot at the table. The student judge I had been paired with is a foodie in his own right, and shared with me that he wants to become a chef one day.

The theme at this year’s event was “noodles and doodles”, and nearly all nine entries featured pasta. Student servers brought each of the dishes in succession to us, accompanied by the chef who created them. We rated each dish on appearance, consistency and taste, and during the process, some of us had also wished for a category to cover creativity!

Lux had one of the more innovative dishes, a pasta take on the Reuben sandwich. Crafted with handmade rye noodles, gruyere caraway cream sauce, housemade pastrami and pickled mustard seeds, it was a unique dish that prompted many favourable comments around the table.

Reuben sandwich-inspired pasta from Lux

Zinc had many of us doing a double take – their dessert pasta version of tiramisu (with pasta cooked in sugar water layered in between lady fingers and vanilla and espresso creams) was the first non-savoury pasta for most of the judges.

Tiramisu pasta from Zinc

Noodlebox’s entry of vindaloo pasta wok-fried with pulled pork and topped with crushed naan bread came as a pleasant surprise for many of us. The consensus was positive for the layered flavours and multiple textures.

Vindaloo pasta from Noodlebox

Northlands contributed the only non-pasta dish of the bunch, a generous bowl of ramen in dashi broth, roasted garlic corn, egg and chicken kara-age. Although the noodles set them apart, the broth unfortunately lacked that expected umami.

Ramen from Northlands

Pazzo Pazzo ended up earning the Kids’ Choice award for their traditional and tasty Pasticcio, comprised of four different kinds of pasta, alfredo and tomato sauces and cheese. In the words of one of the student judges – “It’s just plain good.”

Pasticcio from Pazzo Pazzo

The big winner of the afternoon was Chef Lindsay Porter of El Cortez, who walked away with both the Judges’ Choice and People’s Choice awards. Her tortilla soup ravioli stood out even at first glance, as she had brought her own pottery bowls for plating. I really enjoyed the layers she built, with a spicy soup base, beans, Mexican cheeses, and a touch of corn chip crunch. Best of luck to Chef Porter as she competes in the Canadian Food Championships this summer!

Tortilla soup ravioli from El Cortez

Chef Townsend hands the well-deserved award to Chef Porter

In total (combined with the silent and live auction sales), the Culinary Arts Cook-off raised $18,305 this year, an amazing feat for a single-day event. Congratulations to all of the volunteers and students involved! Thanks again to the organizers for having us as judges; it was a blast!

Choose Your Own Noodle Adventure: Tao Garden

Like the One Ring to rule them all, to me, pho is the ultimate in noodle soups. That said, I know some people can’t have beef, or just prefer to change it up now and then. For those seeking variety, or have a group of particular eaters, Tao Garden would be a good option.

Located behind Lucky 97 in Chinatown, Tao Garden offers a pretty good deal – a customizable bowl of noodle soup plus a hot coffee or tea for just $10.50. Select a broth base, a type of noodles, and two toppings (ranging from vegetarian to meat and seafood) and you’re on your way!

Tao Garden menu

The broth choices surprisingly don’t include beef, but the dozen varieties include chicken, lamb and seafood-based soups. On my first visit a few weeks ago, I decided that the chicken broth would be a good baseline test. I added thick rice noodles, sliced beef brisket, pork and shrimp wontons, and (for an extra $1.50 per item) baby bok choy.

Loved the mismatched cups

The broth had been nicely skimmed, but was under seasoned. Punched up with some chili oil, the soup was satisfying enough. I’d likely venture into the lamb broths on my next visit. Regarding the brisket, I was expecting the thin-sliced versions found in pho, but the thick pieces of meat here, slightly on the chewy side, made for a nice serving size. The won tons were easily my favourite, full of flavour; I would have gladly ordered an additional serving.

My noodle soup

Though Tao Garden also offers some rice-based dishes, congee and appetizers, not one table ordered anything but their noodle soups. The “choose your own adventure” concept does make them unique. Combined with friendly service (the server refilled our tea multiple times without request, never a given in Chinatown, unfortunately) and a well-kept interior, it is a restaurant I wouldn’t hesitate to return to.

Tao Garden
9642 107 Avenue
(780) 705-9688

The Crudo Welcome: The Black Pearl

Restaurants have been a family affair for the Crudos. After successfully running large-scale establishments in Edmonton and Penticton, brothers Cristo and Nick reunited with their father Giuseppe following their mother’s passing to open up Café Amore. The cozy Delton storefront was soon bursting at the seams, having built a reputation of good food, personal service, and the atmosphere of a neighbourhood trattoria. It prompted a move into larger digs two years later where they’ve continued to flourish and cement their hospitality excellence.

Now, the Crudos are preparing to open The Black Pearl, a seafood destination, on April 17, 2015. Though its location downtown on 104 Street may seem more upscale, it was only fitting that host extraordinaire Cristo, Executive Chef Nick, and patriarch Giuseppe welcomed us like family at the sneak peek Wednesday night.

The space has been completely transformed, only retaining the bones of what Lit had installed prior. Comparisons to East Coast fixture Atlantic Trap & Gill would be warranted, and at the very least, their rejection of the modern simplicity that dominates area décor schemes certainly sets them apart.

Interior

The Black Pearl is intended to showcase the Crudos’ love of seafood, developed especially when they had the chance to live on the coast. The restaurant will only serve fresh seafood, and as a result, the menu will rotate on a monthly basis to promote seasonality. The crustaceans in the tanks by the bar were a reminder that many of the dishes we sampled that night were made with their compatriots.

The long bar

Prepare to get your hands dirty at The Black Pearl. I would imagine most diners ordering a few plates to share, family-style, passing around the seafood cracker. The hands-on approach to eating promotes the conviviality of the restaurant, and references the more casual atmosphere of its sister restaurant. No doubt, one of the restaurant’s crown jewels will be King & Dungeness crab, served in a Crown Royal, chili, scallion and ginger cream sauce. It was a statement dish similar to the pasta pescatore so well known at Café Amore.

King & Dungeness crab

For calamari seekers, their crispy version topped with squid, ginger, garlic, scallions and chili hit all the right notes for us.

Calamari

The head-on BC side stripe shrimp, sauteed with pimento, scallions, shallots and garlic oil had a bit of kick to them, and beautifully presented, were almost too good to eat.

Shrimp

Although the dishes did primarily focus on seafood, The Black Pearl doesn’t alienate those who prefer meat, with beef carpaccio and roast chicken on the menu. One of my favourite tastes that evening was the house-made porchetta served with maple glazed Brussels sprouts – the right amount of fat and a hint of sweetness.

Porchetta with Brussels sprouts

Mack and I also really enjoyed a salad that celebrated the beauty of simplicity and quality ingredients; the cherry tomatoes topped with fiore di latte and house-made pesto balsamic glaze is a must-try.

Cherry tomatoes and fiore di latte

It will be interesting to see how The Black Pearl is received. Sabor Divino has had a lot of success with a similarly seafood-focused menu just one block over, and of course, Café Amore itself has a loyal customer base to draw from.

But as Cristo shared with us, The Black Pearl is a labour of love for his family, and the project has been driven by their passion for hospitality. That care and attention came through in the food and the service in spades, and hopefully, with this second location, even more Edmontonians will be exposed to the warmth of the Crudo welcome.

Thanks again to Cristo, Nick and Giuseppe for having us!

The Black Pearl
10132 104 Street

The Culinary Arts Cook-Off: April 18, 2015

If you don’t yet have plans for next Saturday afternoon, consider attending the fourth annual Culinary Arts Cook-Off at Mount Royal School. The event is a convergence of talented chefs and good food all in the name of arts education.

What: Culinary Arts Cook-Off
When: Saturday, April 18, 2015
Time: 11am-2pm
Where: Mount Royal School, 11303 55 Street

Every year, several community-minded chefs donate food and their time to contribute towards fundraising dollars to support arts core programming offered at Mount Royal School. The public is invited to attend and indulge their taste buds for a good cause – samples of the themed dishes are just $2 each, with all donations going towards the school. Of course, there is a competitive element involved, with chefs vying for awards in several categories: people’s choice, judges’ choice and kids’ choice.

Culinary Cook-off 2013

2013 Culinary Cook-Off

I attended back in 2013, when the competition centred around sliders. It was clear the chefs had a great time flexing their creativity, and we found that the taster sizes were definitely generous. The Cook-Off was also a resounding success; the school raised over $16,000 that year.

Culinary Cook-off 2013

The Marc’s contribution

This year, the theme is “noodles and doodles” – it’ll be interesting to see how the participating chefs interpret this, though I’m expecting at least a few versions of mac ‘n’ cheese. The ten restaurants on deck this year are: Craft Beer Market, El Cortez Tequila Bar & Kitchen, Lux Steakhouse & Bar, Noodlebox, Northlands, Pazzo Pazzo, The Red Piano, Smokehouse BBQ, Von’s, and Zinc.

To amp up the stakes even further, the winner of the judges’ choice category this year will also receive paid entry into the pasta category of the Canadian Food Championships in July. Ultimately, the winner of that competition will receive $2,500 and a trip to Florida to compete in the World Food Championships in November 2015.

I’m excited to share that Mack and I will be among the judges who will be tasked with selecting that winner on Saturday. Along with Tina Faiz, we’ll be joining some experienced judges who I’m sure will help show us the ropes. Good luck to all involved!

Hope to see you at Mount Royal School on Saturday!

Love the Dove: Dovetail Delicatessen

Drift has become a fixture of the city’s food truck scene since they introduced their take on sandwiches to Edmontonians back in 2011. And although the number of trucks in operation have more than tripled, they haven’t lost their game – it was a three-peat when Drift was again named Best Food Truck in Avenue Edmonton’s best in food issue back in February.

Drift’s consistency, focus on local ingredients and interesting flavour combinations have resulted in a sizable fan base, one that has been hungry for a year-round ability to enjoy their food. Next week, it will finally be possible.

Nevin and Kara Fenske are about ready to open their brick and mortar shop, Dovetail Delicatessen (the name represents the coming together of their two businesses). Nestled in the 124 Street area, Kara shared that in a way, Dovetail represents a homecoming for her. Kara’s parents have owned a jewelry store in the neighbourhood for more than thirty years, and she remembers spending a lot of time in the area growing up.

Nevin and Kara with Kirsta Franke (of 124 Street Grand Market)

The Fenskes took over the space formerly occupied by Blossoms Café. While they’ve kept the concept of the open kitchen (mimicking customers being able to peek into their truck), they have since maximized the space, allowing for easier movement through and increasing the seating to about thirty.

Nevin readies lunch

Fans of Drift’s sandwiches will be happy to know they are at the core of Dovetail’s offerings. A daily roast will be served in sandwich form, while samosas, salads and dips will also be available from their cooler. At the VIP opening on Friday, we dined on a delectable roasted pork shoulder sandwich with chimichurri and pickled fennel, as well as (for Mack) a roasted carrot salad with parmesan and chokecherry vinaigrette and (for me) a barley salad with roasted apple, pear, toasted almonds and lemon vinaigrette.

Roasted pork shoulder sandwich with chimichurri and pickled fennel and barley salad

To start, Dovetail will be open Monday to Friday 10:30am to 6:30pm, a boon to residents and office dwellers looking for a healthy but hearty lunch. But Nevin and Kara also hope to capitalize on those seeking to unwind with a post-work nibble (they’re licensed!), or want to grab a quick dinner on their way home.

Country style pork paté with pistachio

And if you’re concerned that Dovetail means the end of Drift – set those worries aside. Drift will be back on the streets this year, including as a fixture of the neighbourhood 124 Street Grand Market starting May 14, 2015.

Cooler

Follow Dovetail on Twitter to find out exactly when they’re opening up next week. Congrats to Nevin and Kara on this big achievement – and Mack and I will be sure to return soon!

Dovetail Delicatessen
10721 124 Street
(780) 705-1293
Monday – Friday 10:30am-6:30pm

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