Tag: food

The Cooking Chronicles: Stew-pendous

Eye-rolling title aside, since launching into the world of meat stew a few weeks ago, we’ve continued to crave it, and have been experimenting with different recipes to satisfy that craving.

Mushroom Stew with Beef Chunks

Mark Bittman says that his recipe for mushroom stew with beef chunks can be easily adapted into a vegetarian dish by simply using more mushrooms, but since we had a package of beef stew meat left (our dwindling cow share stash), I thought it would be a good recipe to make and compare with our previous slow-roasted version.

This stew cooks up on the stovetop, for around an hour and a half. What sets it apart is the inclusion of dried mushrooms (we used porcini), and the soaking liquid. Our entire condo was perfumed with the scent of the mushrooms, which also had the effect of lightening the dish as well, as the broth was more liquid than paste).

The beef, as expected, wasn’t as tender as when cooked in the oven for a longer period of time, but it was still pretty tasty. Both of us agreed, though, that the best thing about the dish really was the broth. No stock/wine combination could outshine the aromatic porcini liquid, especially to have been made in that amount of time.

Mushroom Stew with Beef Chunks

Mushroom stew with beef chunks

Elk Stew

Stew is great not only for its comforting aspects, but is the perfect winter meal – nearly all the ingredients for a typical stew can be found at your local farmers’ market right now. For us, this means potatoes from Greens, Eggs and Ham, carrots from Riverbend Gardens, mushrooms from MoNa…and elk from Shooting Star Ranch.

I decided to give elk stew a try after talking to Christine from Shooting Star at the Alberta Avenue Farmers’ Market. She convinced me to try using sirloin meat, and had advised me on cooking it “low and slow” (low meaning 250F) for several hours.

Of course, being the overreaching cook that I am, I thought I would be able to make this stew on a weeknight. To compensate for the time, I jacked up the temperature somewhat (about 315 for the first hour, and 275 for the second).

I realized in hindsight that a high temperature wasn’t necessary – the elk was super lean, but more than that, the consistency of the meat reminded me of liver – supple and maroon in colour (interestingly enough, it tasted slightly of liver too – some pieces that I bit in to had a faint metallic tang). Needless to say, I think I cooked the living daylights out of the sirloin, so I definitely learned my lesson: follow the instructions!

Elk Stew

Elk stew

Food Notes for January 31, 2011

It’s always bittersweet when a friend leaves your workplace for another opportunity, but at least in Jill’s case, she’s only a few blocks away! Still, I’m going to miss you and our coffee breaks, fellow grapefruit club member! On to this week’s food notes:

  • Probably the biggest food news in the city this week was the announcement that Transcend is opening up downtown, in the space formerly occupied by Axis Cafe (10349 Jasper Avenue). Look for the T3 to open up in March, with a full food menu to boot.
  • Another Japanese Village is set to open in south Edmonton at 2940 Calgary Trail (which most recently housed Blush, among other things) – thanks for the tip!
  • Congrats to Liane and Kevin, two Edmonton winners of the first instalment of the Canadian Food Blog Awards!
  • Save the date! Slow Food Edmonton is planning its first annual Eat Alberta Food Conference April 29-30, 2011, to be held at the Yellowhead Brewery. The day will feature lots of hands on sessions like sausage and bread making, as well as various tastings. More details to come!
  • Perhaps this is the way to engage the next gen set at the community league level: host a wine and cheese for Valentine’s Day (Oliver is doing it on February 12, 2011).
  • Joel Salatin (of Polyface Farms/Omnivore’s Dilemma fame) is coming to town at the end of June.
  • The Journal wrote about how social media helps bring diners into local restaurants, like Elm Cafe.
  • Also from the Journal – looks like Alberta lamb is on the upswing (it does seem to be more readily available as of late, but then again, I’m probably just looking for it more).
  • The City of Edmonton invites you to complete a survey regarding their Corner Store Revitalization Project (trying to help reverse the immense tide away from neighbourhood-based shops). I’m not that optimistic, but I do support it – anything to make the city more walkable.
  • I love Councillor Henderson’s idea of closing off 104 Street in the summer and turning it into a “big patio”. C’mon Council, make it happen!
  • How could you not love CHARCUT’s alley burgers (aka, gourmet burgers, served out of their back alley)? I know what I’m lining up for the next time I’m in Calgary. Both Andree and Julie wrote about their recent back alley foray.
  • Watch for a new farmers’ market in southeast southwest Edmonton, at the Lillian Osborne High School (2010 Leger Road), to be launched some time this spring or summer.
  • Check out the hydroponic tomatoes that came out of Maki’s basement. Gorgeous.
  • 700 columns later, The Minimalist is over! Mark Bittman will still be writing for the NYT, but ended his weekly recipe column last week.
  • I’ve been reading a lot about “pop-up” restaurants lately – establishments that open up temporarily for a few days or a few months. How’s that for finicky diners – here today, gone tomorrow…

Have a good week!

The Sandwich of No Return: Press’d

Mack loves sandwiches. A grilled cheese is his go-to snack, and while Quizno’s and Subway are his default quick-serve choices, he is partial to the hot sandwiches at MRKT. So of course, when he heard Press’d, Edmonton’s newest sandwich purveyor opened up in Edmonton City Centre, he was excited to see where they would fall in his personal demarcation.

I had wanted to slip a Press’d gift card into Mack’s Christmas stocking, but they didn’t (and still don’t) offer gift cards. I resorted to making him a coupon similar to the ones produced by grade school children.

Press'd

Who doesn’t love coupons?

At any rate, Mack “redeemed” his coupon last Monday, when we met up at Press’d for lunch.

The sleek interior makes it hard to miss – they did a great job of transforming the formerly drab cafe into an inviting space – clean white and green, accented with stained wood.

Press'd

Interior

The menu features 19 different sandwiches, many more likely to be found in a bistro than a food court (the Hot Tamale is particularly creative, featuring black forest ham, jalapeno jack cheese, scrambled egg, banana peppers, green peppers and hot wing sauce). Prices range from $3.79-$5.79 for a small and $6.79-$8.79 for a full sandwich. Mack opted for the Yahoo ($7.79) with roast beef, swiss cheese, mushrooms, red onion and mayo, while I chose the Golden Bear ($8.79), with smoked chicken, baked brie, roasted apples, spinach and sweet fig jam.

Press'd

Yahoo

Press’d prides itself on its made-to-order philosophy, including slicing their meats and vegetables daily, and emphasizes the fact that they bake their own bread (it’s hard to miss, given the racks of flour stacked front and centre). The focaccia was noticeably fresh – great crumb, and having only been gently “pressed” (instead of flatted, Panini-style), its texture was retained.

Press'd

Golden Bear

Other than the bread, however, we were a bit underwhelmed – the sandwiches were okay, but nothing special. While both the portion size and prices were comparable to other restaurants offering “upscale” sandwiches, both of us knew we would be heading to Elm Cafe or MRKT next time. There was something about our experience that lacked the premium price tag they were commanding – though the contained interior is chic, the bustle of mall foot traffic firmly reminded us that we were in food court territory. And the presentation of the sandwiches reminded Mack of the types of food picked up at an airport – bare bones presentation on paper-covered plastic baskets. We didn’t feel like we really received value for our dollar, and at the end of the day, nothing about our meal – food or service – that really stood out.

So while there are lots of reasons to respect Press’d – their commitment to environmental practices (using eco-friendly take-out containers), and using gluten-free meats when possible – there really aren’t any compelling reasons for us to return.

Press’d
Unit #29, 10200 102 Avenue (Edmonton City Centre West)
780-758-0919

Food Notes for January 24, 2011

There’s some good news coming– watch for an announcement about the venue for the year-round City Market in two weeks. I can’t wait until it’s official!

Taipan Cafe

Taipan Cafe

  • Mack was nice enough to stop by Bistro Praha to check on its status – turns out, it will actually be opening this coming Friday, January 28. The interior, even though it is in a new building, actually reminds me very much of the old space.

Bistro Praha

Bistro Praha interior

  • There’s a new Mucho Burrito downtown, in the HSBC Building (10250 101 Street).

Mucho Burrito

Mucho Burrito

  • Before Ice on Whyte, I had a bite to eat at the newest location of Nhon Hoa (10154 82 Avenue). My usual order at the Chinatown location is a sub with shredded pork, but they didn’t even have it on the menu here (I ended up with a sausage and shredded pork sub). The bread was too toasted for my liking, but it hit the spot.

Nhon Hoa

Sausage and shredded pork sub

  • Mack and I ended up at our neighbourhood Blue Plate Diner on Sunday night for a pre-show dinner. I ordered the $45 Fork Fest special, which included an appetizer, entree, and glass of wine. The tomato & parmesan tart was delicious – the pesto beurre blanc that made the dish. I was expecting a little more from the braised plum lamb shank though – the meat was nearly fall-off-the-bone tender, but more than anything, I was left wanting an accompanying jus or sauce of some kind. Also of note – it was the third time, in trying to have points added to our Original Fare VIP card, that the machine did not work – the program has been in place for a few years now, so we wondered why glitches haven’t yet been remedied.

Blue Plate Diner

Tomato & parmesan tart

Blue Plate Diner

Braised plum lamb shank

  • To help celebrate Annie’s birthday, her parents cooked us a grand meal, and finished with fondue made from a Kerstin’s Chocolates kit. Happy birthday, Annie!

Chocolate Fondue

Chocolate fondue

The Cooking Chronicles: Italian Comforts

I really enjoy browsing for cookbooks at the library – how else would you be able to test run recipes before deciding whether or not it belongs in your permanent collection? Currently on trial: Mario Batali’s Molto Italiano, which won a James Beard Award for “Best International Cookbook” in 2006.

I’ve only made two recipes from the book so far, but it’s a nice volume to flip through – lots of photos, and most of the recipes are preceded by an anecdote, something that does help make it more personal and fun to read.

Roman Egg Drop Soup

Feeling snowed in on one of the weekends, Mario Batali’s Roman egg drop soup seemed like the perfect dish to make. Simple and fast, it was so good I had it for lunch and dinner that night. This in spite of the fact that I used boxed stock, and substituted all purpose for semolina flour.

It’s so easy to pull together – a cup of cold broth, eggs, flour, parmesan and nutmeg is whisked into boiling stock – nothing to it. It was silky smooth, rich without being heavy, and made our condo smell like mom’s kitchen on a sick day.

Roman Egg Drop Soup

Roman egg drop soup

I will be making this again – I’m craving it now, just writing about it.

Baked Pasta with Ricotta and Ham

Mack didn’t enjoy the soup as much as I did, but he did like the baked pasta with ricotta and ham more than me. I was calling it “Italian mac and cheese”, but it’s really more like a macaroni pie – pasta and Italian cooked ham layered with ricotta, provolone and tomato sauce.

It wasn’t difficult – most of the recipe time is passive, allowing the sauce to reduce down (it did taste fantastic) – but somehow, even with all of the cheese and ham, the dish didn’t meet my expectations. There wasn’t quite enough sauce for my liking, and in the end, I kept thinking – with similar ingredients, I could have made Giada’s stuffed shells with arrabbiata sauce instead.

Baked Pasta with Ricotta and Ham

Baked pasta with ricotta and ham

I bookmarked a few more recipes to try – hopefully I get to them before the book’s due date!

The 2011 Alberta Avenue Farmers’ Market

Two months ago, when Kerrie Miller took over as the Alberta Avenue Farmers’ Market Manager, the number of vendors dipped, and morale was low. The atmosphere in the hall was far from lively, though the vendors that did remain made the best of it. But now, in its second week in 2011, Alberta Avenue really does seem to be looking up.

Market

Interior

Perhaps it had to do with the sound of children playing, or the dreamy quality of the twinkle lights above, but the mood at the market was so lively and positive today. Patrons chatted happily with vendors, and people lingered (and had a reason to do so – the concession and dining area, in lieu of outdoor street food, is a great one).

Greens, Eggs and Ham

Andres of Greens Eggs and Ham

It felt more like the City Market than ever before – I had the time and space to chat with producers, and ran into a few familiar faces. The change in time – from 2-7pm to 5-8pm, seemed to bolster the small crowd.

En Sante

En Sante

Sew Cozy Mittens

Sew Cozy Mittens, made from recycled sweaters (Ansa was at Deep Freeze too)

Ma-Be Farms, Shooting Star Ranch and The Chocolate Doctors were there, though the big draw for everyone seemed to be Linda Kearney’s breads.

The Queen of Tarts

The Queen of…Bread?

Linda (aka The Queen of Tarts) is more widely known for her desserts, but since she and her husband will also be offering an extensive selection of bread at their new bistro-cafe on 104 Street, she thought it would be wise to start testing loaves early.

The Queen of Tarts

Miche

She had a half dozen varieties today, beautifully displayed in baskets. They use organic, locally grown and milled flour, and all of their breads use levain instead of yeast.

The Queen of Tarts

Dark Rye

I picked up a baton, fougasse and a loaf of multigrain bread – the first two were consumed even before the accompanying soup made it to the table – Mack liked the baton best, while the fougasse was my favourite (it had a solid crust that gave way to a nice, soft interior).

The Queen of Tarts

Multigrain

Linda will be selling her breads every Thursday at least until her shop opens – after that, she will determine if she can manage to do both.

Kerrie is still working on attracting other vendors – keep up-to-date by joining the mailing list. Holly Gale of Smoky Valley Goat Cheese is expecting to come once a month, and in between, Greens, Eggs and Ham may be able to carry their products.

So – if you need any more incentive to check out the market, how about this: pick up some goat cheese, a baton, and hop on the train – it made me feel like I was in Paris more than I’d care to admit.

Paris

Dinner

Hope to see you there!

Alberta Avenue Farmers’ Market
118 Avenue & 93 Street
Open Thursdays, 5-8 p.m.

A New Bakery on the Block: La Monarca

Sergio Manrique and I have sat on an inter-agency immigrant services committee for some time now, but I had no idea that he and Ninfa Castellanos had been planning on opening a Latin bakery together until I read about it.

La Monarca opened on December 1, just a block away from where the Old Bread Factory (now shuttered) used to be, tucked behind the Whitemud Crossing complex. It takes its name from the Monarch butterfly, which migrates from Canada to Mexico every fall, symbolizing a bridge between the two countries.

On Saturday, Mack and I walked over to the bakery after an event at the nearby library, and Sergio warmly welcomed us both.

La Monarca

Sergio

As it was near the end of the day, it wasn’t a shock that he had been nearly cleaned out – most of the bread, and all of the cakes had been sold out. We still did have a fair share of sweet and savoury pastries and cookies to choose from, beautifully displayed and lit in wooden cases fit for a curio collection (customers select what they want using tongs and plastic trays, a la Garden Bakery). Most of the items were under $2, so a trip here definitely wouldn’t break the bank. I couldn’t help but think the location is great – students studying at the library could easily pop over for a snack.

La Monarca

Display cases

We asked Sergio what his favourite treat was, and though it was difficult to get him to commit, he did lean towards the conchas (sweet, shell-shaped buns). Mack ended up choosing a corbata ($1.50), a sweet bun filled with custard, and I decided on the tornillo ($1.75), a chocolate twist.

La Monarca

Tornillo

La Monarca

Empanada

La Monarca

Too cute

Mack’s corbata was our favourite of the two – he initially said we’d only have a bite before dinner, but of course, it was gone before you know it: he bread had a subtle sweetness that complemented the custard so well.

La Monarca

Corbata

Be sure to check out La Monarca the next time you’re in the neighbourhood – I know we will – there are still two dozen options we have to try! Best of luck to Sergio and Ninfa with this new endeavour.

La Monarca
4119 106 Street
(780) 218-9777

Food Notes for January 17, 2011

I am so glad the forecast is looking up, because I’ve just about had it with the weather. I guess I don’t have as much to complain about as some (a lack of sidewalks to shovel is a definite plus of condo living), but trudging through piles of uneven snow in the blistering cold for my daily commute was getting hard to take. How many more months until spring? On to this week’s food notes:

  • CBC Edmonton is still looking for recipe contributions for their Flavours of Edmonton cookbook, a fundraiser for the Edmonton Food Bank. You have until January 24, 2011 to submit your recipe. Direct any questions to Erin Thomson.
  • The U of A Alumni Association is organizing the Educated Palate, a series of food-related events to take place over the next few months. Among the sessions are a coffee and chocolate session featuring Transcend and Kerstin’s, and a tasting with d’Lish.
  • Are you counting down to the day when Edmonton’s first location of Crave opens on February 4, 2011? You can follow their progress on their blog.
  • Looks like Bistro Praha is set to (finally) open on January 21.
  • Maki recapped Breaducation, an evening of learning and sampling at Luzzara last week, featuring Chris and Owen of Prairie Mill.
  • The Journal reviewed Corso 32 last week – a rave if I’ve ever read one: “Corso 32 takes its place as one of the city’s most exciting and satisfying places for a serious meal.”
  • Twyla’s review of Ruby Dragon (another Asian fusion restaurant that replaced Kai) made me laugh: “The young manager was quite proud that they employ someone who is strictly in charge of the deep fryer. So, while I appreciated their attention to detail, I felt it was more of a sentence than a position of honour for their chosen one.”
  • Kevin wrote a great post about creative ways of sourcing products locally, without surrendering value for dollar.
  • The Journal also had a good piece comparing canola oils (I love Mighty Trio) and a feature on the revamped Alberta Avenue Farmers’ Market (I hope the market gets the same bump in business that restaurants seem to experience after the exposure).
  • Ever wonder how a visit from Guy Fieri of Diners, Drive-ins and Dives can impact a business? Wonder no more: “It was a gift,” says one restaurant owner.
  • Liane mentioned a new restaurant called Niche (11011 Jasper Avenue) that has replaced the Hardwood Cafe. Just one review on Urban Spoon so far – but I’d be curious to check it out.

Niche

Niche

  • Ellen, Jill and I checked out Razzleberries (10040 104 Street) for lunch on Friday, which bills itself as offering “authentic Sri Lankan cuisine”. It was a modest buffet (two of the six items were rice and plain pasta), but was inexpensive ($8.95). I could see myself returning if I worked right nearby (there were many tables of office workers without coats on), but I wouldn’t seek it out again.

Razzleberries

A plate from the buffet line at Razzleberries – the bourbon chicken was tasty, but the curried beef and lentils both could have been cooked for a longer period

Edmonton’s Original Green Onion Cake: Noodle Maker

The green onion cake. Savoury, crispy and oh so satisfying, it is one of my favourite indulgences, but only when done right. I’m not a fan of the flat pancake-like versions at the Fringe that many others adore; my preference is for the doughnut-shaped cakes – airy, and really, with even more surface area to absorb hot oil, it’s on a different plane of existence. When I heard about Noodle Maker, opened by the man who is said to have introduced the tasty treat to Edmonton, my curiosity was piqued – what would the “original” green onion cake be like?

On Thursday, another miserably cold day, Kathryn and I made our way to Noodle Maker for lunch. Just past the gates heralding Old Chinatown, it seemed to be a quiet afternoon for the restaurant – only one other customer to be seen during our visit (given how bustling the cafeteria in Canada Place is, I had to wonder how many people know this place exists).

The interior isn’t much to look at, save the artificial cherry tree blooming from the take out counter, and an antique stove in the corner. The dated décor contrasted amusingly with the large flat panel television screen mounted to the wall (tuned to a Chinese news channel), and a shiny new Mac at the till.

The menu features dishes from many Asian cuisines, including Chinese, Korean, Japanese and Thai(take a look here). I opted for a ramen bowl with teriyaki chicken ($8.50), while Kathryn chose the rice stick stir fry ($11). Of course, we also ordered a green onion cake ($3.50) to share.

The green onion cake didn’t look like much, but looks were deceiving! While it was the flat version, pulled apart, there were discernable, flaky layers inside. With a crispy, salty exterior, we had to pull ourselves away to try our entrees. It really was worth venturing out for, and would be something I’d return specifically to order (we both agreed that the name of the restaurant really should celebrate their green onion cake instead).

Noodle Maker

Green onion cake

The entrees were good, but didn’t live up to their green onion cake counterpart. The butter soy broth and ramen were all right – broth not overly salty, and ramen well-cooked, but neither wowed me. I did like the inclusion of vegetables though – bean sprouts, corn, and spinach. The teriyaki chicken was probably the wrong type of meat to order (especially after reading Lillian’s review) – it wasn’t as moist as it could have been. Kathryn enjoyed her stir-fry, noting that the rice cakes were very fresh, but like me, also kept returning to the green onion cakes.

Noodle Maker

Teriyaki chicken ramen

Noodle Maker

Rice stick stir-fry with pork, shiitake mushrooms and su choy

Noodle Maker has started a $7.67 “popular lunch express” feature for either dine-in or take-out, a great deal that includes a vegetable stir fry, a ramen noodle or rice bowl and two toppings (teriyaki chicken, tiger beef, pork ribs, shrimp, basa fish tempura). On January 18, 2011, from 11am-2pm, those that register on their Facebook page will be charged just $5.

There are definitely a few more dishes that I’d be interested in returning to try. And given its proximity to the Arts District, it’d be an interesting choice for pre-show dining. Not that I’d need an excuse to come back for the green onion cakes.

Noodle Maker
9653 102 Avenue
(780) 428-0021
Daily 11am-10pm

The Cooking Chronicles: Post-Holiday Detox

I don’t think our holiday indulgence was as bad this year as in past years, but after Christmas, for whatever reason, my body was craving vegetables, and a break from butter and fat. So I made sure to bookmark a few recipes to get us through the post-holiday detox.

Mushroom Barley Soup

We went to the pantry for this one, and hauled out the quick-cook barley that had been hiding behind a good many other things. The mushroom barley soup was one recipe on the Progressive Foods website I hadn’t yet tried, and better yet, it allowed me to purge my fridge of some less-than-peak vegetables in the crisper.

It simmered happily on the stove while we had company over, allowing the flavours to stew for even longer. The results were great – a spoonful of tasty vegetables, textured barley and savoury broth in every bite.

Mushroom Barley Soup

Mushroom barley soup

Two Pea Soup with Frizzled Ham

I should nickname this Mark Bittman dish of two pea soup with frizzled ham the “first intermission soup”, because it is the perfect recipe to be made during the first intermission of a hockey game (as I did, on break from watching one of the World Juniors games). Then, allowed to simmer through the last two periods to soften the split peas, it was ready to eat by the end of the game.

It’s another soup that is easily made with ingredients that most people have on hand – ham, split peas, frozen peas, carrots, onions – and it’s a hearty meal without being heavy. The frizzled ham was a lovely garnish, enhancing the soup with a crispy, smoky finish.

Two Pea Soup with Frizzled Ham

Two pea soup with frizzled ham

Tofu Chili with Soy Sauce

Like kale chips and potato chips, tofu chili really shouldn’t be compared with its meat counterpart – it is in a different playing field all together, and will never, ever win.

Mark Bittman’s recipe for tofu chili with soy sauce came together easily (and even more so because I opted to use a can of black beans instead of cooking them myself).

The texture of the crumbled tofu wasn’t a surprise (we’ve had it before), but I found it probably needed more time on the stove to absorb all of the flavours (I had reduced the simmering time in half because we weren’t cooking beans from scratch). Cumin probably would have been a great addition, as well as tomato paste, to thicken the mixture, and though the cloves were fragrant, the combination with soy sauce didn’t work as well as we expected. Mack though, ever the joker, said that something was missing. When asked what, he replied, “Meat.” Haha.

Tofu Chili with Soy Sauce

Tofu chili

We would make it again – but like I said, tofu chili is to be considered henceforth as a stand alone dish.