Lingering the Night Away: The Secret Garden at The Dish

Restaurants, as of late, have never been the destination. For us, eating out has been a bridge to some other event, a necessary evil prior to another engagement. As a result, we haven’t had a meal in quite some time where we could linger, relax, and simply soak up the ambiance. Last Friday presented an opportunity to do that, and we made the most of it.

We’ve been to The Dish a few times, but its Secret Garden, accessible only by a separate entrance, was never made apparent to us. We walked past its concealed gate a few weeks ago, and after peeking in to discover a hidden terrace bursting with romance and greenery, resolved to return before autumn fully reared its head.

Mack called ahead to make a reservation, which ensured us a cozy table under the twinkle lights, next to the lone tree that seemed simultaneously out of place and yet right at home. From the overhead rafters hung baskets of plants, infusing the space with a touch nature so sorely lacking on many other patios in the city.

Mack in the Secret Garden

As the sky darkened to dusk and then nightfall, staff brought out tabletop candles for each party as hushed conversations continued amongst the serenity. It was a lovely setting in which to wind down after a long work week.

The food was pitch perfect as well, straightforward and comforting. I was again swayed by their deep dish quiche ($14), this time featuring chicken, artichoke hearts, Portobello mushrooms, asiago, brie and cream cheese. Mack opted for their meatball flatbread ($15), and we both decided on a side of creamy tomato and basil soup.

The soup was a little too tangy for me, though it suited Mack’s palate just fine. My quiche was as I had expected, the crisp and flaky crust and dense baked egg being exactly what I was looking for. Mack’s flatbread, however, won the entrée sweepstakes that night, with the flavourful herb-flecked meatballs stealing the show.

Deep Dish Quiche

Meatball Flatbread

Portions at The Dish are modest, meaning that while leftovers are usually out of the question, having room for dessert is a distinct possibility. Over coffee, we pondered our options, and settled on the phyllo lemon tart. After receiving our phyllo-encrusted dish, we realized puff pastry might have been the better choice for ease of separating the crust from the serving vessel, but the custard, which manoeuvred between sweet and tart with ease, accented with the smooth whipped cream and biting raspberries, made up for it.

Phyllo Lemon Tart

Service was warm but not overly attentive, but it suited the relaxed mood of the patio. I would imagine, however, that as most parties seemed to be of the lingering sort, the level of staff attentiveness might have been an adaptation to the clientele.

Our coffee mugs were refilled as we finished the last of the dessert and relished the freedom of our open schedule that evening. Though we may not have the opportunity to do it again for a while, I’m glad were able to whittle the night away at the Secret Garden before the end of summer.

At dusk

The Dish (Secret Garden hours are dependent on the weather – call ahead)
12417 Stony Plain Road
(780) 488-6641
Monday-Saturday 11am-9pm

Culinary Q & A with Liane Faulder

Occupation:  Journalist

What did you eat today?

I had granola with strawberries and raspberries for breakfast and a cheese sandwich with a side of organic carrots from Sparrow’s Nest for lunch, plus an apple and a glass of milk.

What do you never eat?

Liver, unless it’s in pate.

What is your personal specialty?

I make a buttermilk chocolate cake with a gooey fudge icing for all family birthdays and it is, if I do say so myself, quite a hit.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find: 

organic eggs, because they taste better.

What is your weekday meal standby?

Because I eat out a lot for work, I often like a simple bowl of home-made soup for supper. I always have a couple of different kinds in the freezer. Right now there is a Portuguese Green Soup. Chef Lino from Sabor Davino gave me the recipe and I just love it. I’ve also got a Fennel and Potato Soup in the freezer, made with a recipe from The Moosewood Cookbook.

What is your favourite kitchen item?

This changes regularly. I just bought a beautiful larchwood cheese board from Janice Beaton‘s cheese shop in Calgary, so that’s sitting proudly on my counter top and I’m planning a nice charcuterie for the next time I have people over. I also love my Braun food processor and my waffle iron.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

One of my mother’s Sundays suppers with a standing rib roast of beef and Yorkshire pudding,  draped in  hot gravy, and her fresh apple pie for dessert.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

One of my regular spots is Culina in Mill Creek, partly because it’s in my neighbourhood and partly because I love the combination of good food, a cozy atmosphere, reasonable prices and friendly service. And I love the wine bar down the street, Passa Tempo, which is also owned by Culina chef Brad Lazarenko and his partner Ed Donszelmann. The bartender at Passa Tempo, Diana, sets the tone. She manages to be both sophisticated, and down-to-earth, in her approach.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

This changes from time to time, depending on my most recent experiences. I’ve eaten a couple of pretty so-so meals at very expensive restaurants in Edmonton, so I don’t think that eating at one of the better restaurants in the city necessarily guarantees a top meal every time. Right now my favourite restaurant, however, is The Blue Pear. I think Chef Darcy Radies does a dynamite job of coming up with creative combinations and flat-out surprising flavours, and I really like the prix-fixe concept. I think Viphalay is the best place in town for Thai food.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I’d eat some fresh bread, along with some cheese and pate from one of the small shops along the Rue Montorgueil in Paris.

Liane’s weekly food column can be found in the Bistro section of the Edmonton Journal every Wednesday. She also blogs at Eat My Words.

Edmonton AIDS Walk for Life 2009

The 2009 AIDS Walk for Life took place this past Sunday. Mack and I participated for the second year in a row, and began raising money for it a few weeks ago. As some of you may have known, we were in a bit of a competition, and in spite of his “Twitter clout”, I won! Well, ultimately, HIV Edmonton is the winner, but thank you to all of my sponsors who helped me raise $260 (Mack raised $210). All of the money raised from the walk stays in the community to help with HIV Edmonton’s work with prevention, education and support for those living with HIV, among other activities.

With the water bottle and reusable bag I “earned” from raising over $250

It was a beautiful, albeit brisk, day for the 5km walk, and the weather was a blessing for the event, held in Churchill Square this year. The outdoor setting made everything seem more lively, and welcomed any and all who were in the area to enjoy the festivities. Besides music and entertainment, Planet Organic and Starbucks were on hand distributing refreshments, and walkers were treated to free pizza from Pizza 73.

Churchill Square

Burlesque performer Sophie Sticke

At the same time, there seemed to be more confusion that arose out of the open space, a natural result from a latent ability to exert control over a wide area. Last year, a button we received at the end of the walk entitled participants to complimentary pizza and popcorn, but this year, because of the nature of the space, tickets were required for food. It hadn’t been communicated to us that tickets could be used for a free hot dog from Fat Franks (we only stumbled upon this after deciding that we would buy food ourselves), and I’m sure many participants who hadn’t wanted to eat prior to the walk weren’t aware of this fact.

Nitpicks aside, it was still a great event. Nick Lees, the “Mile High Marshall” and Sophie led the way on a float of sorts down the walk route. There’s something about just being a part of a crowd, knowing you are a part of a movement larger than yourself that is wonderful to experience.

Nick Lees and Sophie

And we’re off!

Mack gets his walk on

Along the walk route

At the Legislature

Instead of stopping halfway through the walk at the Legislature for a photo, the organizers decided the group shot would be taken at the end back at Churchill Square. The stairs on the Centennial Plaza were the perfect place to do so.

Group photo op

Thanks again to everyone who supported us!

Food Notes for September 21, 2009

The television season officially started again, with the premiere of House. It was a fantastic episode to boot! Anyone else hungry for new shows? On to this week’s food notes:

  • A reminder that the Great Potato Giveaway is on this Saturday, September 26 at Norbest Farms. Who wouldn’t want fifty pounds of free potatoes?
  • I read about a new bakery called Old Bread Factory on Foodosophy. From the looks of the scrumptious desserts offered there, I will have to make an effort to swing by to pick up my own box of sweet goods soon.
  • The Cocoa Room is open again after the summer break, although under a new name – Kerstin’s Chocolates! Kerstin’s hopes the change will result in less confusion.
  • James from Transcend wrote a post last week about the surprisingly collaborative nature of the specialty coffee community. Good to know.
  • DeVine’s is offering a free spirits tasting on October 2 from 4-7pm. Donations will be gratefully accepted for the Alberta Council of Women’s Shelters.
  • Is a local food supply network a possibility on the horizon? I hope so.
  • On that note – the USDA’s “Know Your Farmer, Know your Food” initiative sounds great, though I know sometimes these things could just be about throwing money without sense of where it is actually going.
  • I have been hearing so much about Portland lately – about how they are the model city for sustainability, planning, and liveability. And just this weekend, the NYT included a feature article about their supposedly incredible food scene. Is Portland too good to be true? My scanning abilities have failed me again – I didn’t realize they were talking about Portland, Maine.
  • Everything you wanted to know about burger classification and more – but be warned, don’t click on it if you’re hungry.
  • I’m in the middle of Frank Bruni’s memoir Born Round, and after his umpteenth description of a ravenous Italian meal with his family, I couldn’t take it anymore and had to make the only dish I knew that could satisfy my craving for pasta to gorge over: Giada’s stuffed shells with arrabbiata sauce. Yum.

 

Stuffed Shells with Arrabbiata Sauce

Food Notes for September 14, 2009

You may have read on Mack’s blog that Twestival Local 2009 raised $565 for the Youth Emergency Shelter Society – thanks to everyone who came out! On another fundraising note, Mack and I will both be participating in the AIDS Walk for Life on Sunday. Brittney wrote an awesome post for “Team Sharon” last week – please consider sponsoring either myself or Mack. On to this week’s food notes:

  • Congrats to Chad and Josh from Transcend who placed third and fourth, respectively, in the Prairie Regional Barista Championships this weekend in Calgary. They’ll both be at nationals!
  • Nate Box’s new endeavour in the space that was previously Hulbert’s will be called Elm Cafe (7601 115 Street), and will be open for three meals a day. Look for it (fingers crossed) in mid-October.
  • Kelly posted about a new Indian restaurant on the city’s burgeoning southwest side called Zaika Indian Bistro. Looks sleek.
  • Christopher Thrall (who formerly edited and contributed to Vue Weekly’s Dish section) is Metro‘s Edmonton Urban Foodie – I look forward to seeing your reviews every Thursday, Chris! Meanwhile, food blogger Andree Lau has taken up Metro Calgary’s Urban Foodie post.
  • September 15 is the last day to get early bird admission tickets for the upcoming Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival, running November 5-7.
  • Vue Weekly had an article about Belle Valley Farms, an alpaca farm in Alberta – I’m not sure we’ll be seeing the demand go up just yet, but I’d be willing to try more of it.
  • Chris LaBossiere wrote a thought-provoking post about a potential redevelopment plan for the land currently occupied by the Valley Zoo. He suggests turning the area into a world-class community garden with teaching spaces for school children and culinary arts students alike.
  • Can a steakhouse be sustainable? An interesting question for Alberta, where steakhouses are a dime a dozen.
  • I had no idea Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups taste different depending on which side of the border they’re sold. Sounds like we Canucks have the better kind, though.
  • Can you say lunch envy? Some chef’s children have it good – I wish I had such good lunches when I was a kid.
  • Julie & Julia author Julie Powell’s new book seems even more contrived than the chapter excerpt I read, at least according to this Eater post.
  • Browsing in Damon J in Old Strathcona last week, I was handed a coupon book called Cheque Out Whyte. In it are some pretty sweet coupons, including a $15 “cheque” for Devlin’s, and a $10 “cheque” for Packrat Louie. It’s a neat promotion for area businesses to collectively offer.

Cheque Out Whyte

  • Just off Whyte (in the strip mall with Henry and Shoppers Drug Mart), I spotted a forthcoming restaurant called Taiwan Express. It will offer bubble tea, along with Taiwanese dishes.

Taiwan Express

  • A few of us helped May celebrate her birthday two weekend ago. We had dinner at Wildflower Grill, one of my favourite restaurants in the city. I have to say I wasn’t as enthralled with this experience as with past meals, and much of that had to do with our waiter, who was much too pushy with alcohol that night. Service aside, the food was okay. The star on my halibut entree was not the fish itself (which was actually overcooked), but actually the polenta, perfectly seasoned and cooked in a way that absolutely melted on my tongue. Mack’s steak was over-sauced, but he did enjoy his baby crock pot of truffled mac and cheese.

Goat cheese mousse amuse bouche

Halibut

Steak (any further details would have required some notation…of which I did not make)

Late Summer Picnic and Photowalk

Our city was blessed with an absolutely gorgeous weekend, but given our late start to the warm weather this year, I think we deserve it. Mack and I took advantage of it by finally having a picnic and a long walk in the river valley, tracing a route very similar to the one we took for our fall photo walk last year.

Downtown Edmonton

Through Louise McKinney Riverfront Park, we saw the Edmonton Queen take off with a boatload of passengers, and a number of canoes out on the North Saskatchewan.

Chinese Garden

Edmonton Queen cruising

On the other side of the connecting foot bridge, we found a shaded bench and unwrapped our lunch. We had picked up a few hot pressed sandwiches from Sobeys Urban Fresh to take along – an uptown turkey club for Mack and a chicken apple brie sandwich for me. We were surprised when we watched the deli attendant throw both sandwiches in the microwave before putting them in the panini press – the microwave was probably the cause for the chewy bread. I was looking for a bit more sweetness in the sandwich (the red chili jelly didn’t do it for me), and a lot more fresh herbs, but the apples had a nice texture and the quantity of chicken was fair.

On the foot bridge!

Our lunch

After lunch, we walked up to the Muttart Conservatory to explore the grounds. We intend to return to check out the newly-renovated pyramids sometime, but likely on a day when spending time indoors is more justifiable. We did pop our heads inside to see the new cafe, accessible to patrons without an admission fee.

Muttart Conservatory

Cafe inside the Muttart

The area surrounding the Muttart is beautiful in its own right, something neither Mack or I knew. Beds of plants, maintained by the Edmonton Horticultural Society (which celebrated its 100th anniversary this year), help celebrate some of the province’s perennial flowers, and help remind those passing by about the flora and fauna contained just beyond the glass.

Mack explores the gazebo

By one of the Muttart’s outdoor gardens

We even stumbled across a garden grown specifically for the Edmonton Food Bank (with, among other vegetables, tomatoes, cucumber and zucchini), maintained by the youth at the Yellowhead Youth Centre – too cool.

A Garden for Edmonton’s Food Bank

A sunflower in the city

Thanks for a relaxing afternoon, Mack! What did you do to take advantage of our glorious weekend?

Symphony Under the Sky 2009

Mack and I attended our first Symphony Under the Sky concert in Hawrelak Park over the weekend, and it pushed me to realize one reason to love Edmonton.

It was a task itself to get to the venue – a lack of planning on my part meant we ended up driving, and encountered more vehicles parked around Hawrelak than I have ever seen before. After crawling through the one-way thoroughfare with no luck, we drove to the University and took a free shuttle bus from Stadium Car Park. While we usually take public transit to events of this nature, as it was our first time, I don’t think it was pressed upon attendees enough that parking would be limited (but yes, I accept our punishment for forsaking transit).

At any rate, we arrived having missed the first song, and had to listen to the second (a medley of well-known Hollywood tunes) standing. Our tardiness meant our purchase of reserved seats ($27 a ticket versus $18 for grass seating) was an unexpected boon, even though the available selection (in July, no less) was few and far between.

Our view of the stage

The concert, titled Hollywood Adventures and Romances, was an evening of familiar silver screen scores and songs. While I do enjoy the occasional purely classical number, I have to admit I tend to prefer popular music. The program included songs from Titanic, The Sound of Music, Beauty and the Beast, Pocahontas, and The Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring (my favourite was indeed the latter, and I spent Labour Day re-watching the movie on DVD). Mack enjoyed the encore of the theme from E.T., his favourite childhood film.

Robert Bernhardt was our conductor for the evening. His sense of humour helped make the light evening of music more enjoyable. Also worth mentioning was one of the cellists, who not only brought out a lifejacket before the Titanic number, but also a hat and whip before the theme from Raiders of the Lost Ark, and a set of alien ears before E.T. Tyler Hamilton, a top-10 finalist from Canadian Idol’s first season, made a guest appearance, and sang an amusing duet of “People Will Think We’re in Love” with soprano Kathleen Brett.

We spent some time at intermission wandering the area, and avoided the temptation of mini doughnuts and Fat Franks (they are everywhere!). We spotted some concert freeloaders just outside of the amphitheatre fence – I’m sure there will be a similar article written about the best place to treat yourself to Symphony Under the Sky as there was about the Folk Fest.

Packed Amphitheatre

At the break, we ran into one of our former high school vice principals also taking in the show. She indicated that she was a Symphony Under the Sky regular. This comment triggered the thought that all Edmontonians likely have a favourite festival, and a time of year in Edmonton that they look forward to most (for me – the Fringe, of course). And though Labour Day may trigger a change in season, the festivals don’t end here (the Edmonton International Film Festival is in a few weeks, with dEdmonton just around the corner, followed by LitFest, among others).

On the people power front, festivals rely on locals to donate their time. Nearly every event, whether a day in duration or fourteen, would not happen if not for Edmonton’s amazing culture of volunteering. But more than that, I’ve come to realize the variety of festivals – from anime to multicultural, social justice to theatre – provides citizens with the opportunity to lay claim to one in particular that speaks to them and it becomes their yearly in-city escape; a perennial convergence of those with a shared passion for that theme, medium or philosophy.

I think it is about time Edmonton dropped our “City of Champions” nickname to formally adopt “Festival City” instead. While it’s not a new concept (Edmonton Economic Development Corporation has marketed the city as a festival destination for years), it occurred to me this weekend how our year round events, each one distinct and unto their own, help to bring out the best and showcase the tip of the iceberg of what we have to offer.

Lovely scene after nightfall

Thanks to the Edmonton Symphony Orchestra for a great evening, and for the realization of one of the many reasons why Edmonton is a great place to live.

Food Notes for September 7, 2009

  • The Old Strathcona Foundation is hosting a Taste of Old Strathcona fundraiser this Friday, September 11. Along with samples from Hudson’s, Flirt Cupcakes and New Asian Village, expect entertainment and a silent auction.
  • The Marketplace at Callingwood is hosting its 11th annual CornFest on Saturday, September 12, in support of the Firefighters Burn Treatment Society.
  • Liane posted about two upcoming points of interest for the city’s culinary scene – starting September 25, the Hardware Grill is joining the fray of competitively-priced dishes with a $35 “grazing menu” featuring appetizers and desserts. Offered only from 5-6:30pm, its intention to appeal to those spending less freely and for those requiring a pre-show meal is very similar to the Blue Pear’s “Baby Blue Pear” menu.
  • Secondly, Liane notes that David Cruz (formerly of Sage) will be opening up a restaurant on Jasper Avenue, hopefully by December. I love when new establishments decide to open up in the core.
  • While I would have loved to be present at the filming of the Edmonton episode of The Endless Feast, I was happy to see a photo-filled account of the dinner on Colleen Ingoldsby’s blog.
  • The Journal filed the second mainstream media review about Indian Fusion, also with a passable verdict.
  • I had the opportunity to interview Sabor Divino’s Lino Oliveira for a piece in Vue Weekly this week. I find it interesting when chefs aren’t formally schooled in the culinary arts.
  • Also in Vue – an article worth reading about the new Alberta Sustainable Agriculture Apprenticeship Program (ASAAP) that seeks to connect young people with apprenticeship opportunities on local farms.
  • I appreciated Cheryl’s candid post about her first year with a CSA – her point about having to love salads would make or break my own experience, if I were to ever join one.
  • See Magazine had an article this week about the “cupcake war” on Whyte.
  • On a related cupcake note – Slate had a well-written piece about the potential crash of the cupcake market.
  • Mack and I have been spending most of our Saturday mornings this summer at the City Centre Farmers’ Market, and absolutely loving it. And more than other years, we’ve been making it a point to try out different vendors. This week, we were early enough to have the chance to pick up a bag of Montreal-style bagels. At 6 for $6, they’re not for the cash-strapped shopper, but for handmade bagels, they have a great texture, with the right amount of chew and varnish. The sourdough taste of the bread was something I wasn’t expecting, but it wasn’t overly strong. Starting October 22, the vendor will be at the Salisbury Greenhouse market.

A plain Montreal-style bagel

Twestival Local 2009

It’s been roughly seven months since our last Twestival in Edmonton. In February, Twestival attendees helped raise over $1000 for Charity:Water, a non-profit organization that helps ensure clean water is accessible in developing nations. While the majority of attendees were users of Twitter, it definitely wasn’t a prerequisite to take part in the event.

This time around, Twestival is set up for participating cities to choose their own cause. After an online vote, it was decided that the Youth Emergency Shelter Society will be the charity of choice. The details of the event are as follows:

WHAT: Twestival Local 2009
WHEN: Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 6:00pm
WHERE: Original Joe’s Varsity Row, 8404 109 Street, Edmonton, AB (map)
WHY: To support the Youth Emergency Shelter Society

We’re asking for a minimum donation of $20, but feel free to donate more! You can buy tickets online here, or donate at the door.

Hope to see you there!

It’s All About the Whimsy: Delux Burger Bar

Delux Burger Bar is a prime example of the type of restaurant doing gangbusters right now – a perfectly executed “upscale casual” eatery that pairs a chic interior with a laid-back atmosphere. Why Delux wins my vote as one of the best in that ubiquitous class, however, has to do with their whimsical extras that go beyond smartly-attired wait staff, unidentifiable pulsating music and accessible dishes. Is Delux manufactured exactly to push the buttons of diners who have a secret penchant for kitsch? Of course, but the bottom line is, it works, or at least it does for me.

Mack and I had dinner there recently before a function at Jeffrey’s Cafe & Wine Bar (a nice place off the beaten path with an interesting selection of wine). We opted for an air-conditioned seat inside, sharing the space with those unwinding with a drink after work, a few families, and several groups of friends gathered for supper.

The menu, the requisite mix of share plates, burgers and other proteins encased in buns, offers nothing extraordinary, but enough variety to please all eaters. I went with the day’s special, called Out of the Wild, a bison burger topped with bacon, mushroom, lettuce and tomato basil havarti ($12). Mack decided to satisfy his hot dog craving with the Delux Dog ($8) with caramelized onions, double-smoked bacon and cheddar. We topped off our order with a Delux Duo of French and sweet potato fries ($6).

Our food arrived surprisingly quickly, though for a place that serves a fairly straightforward menu that was expected. What I didn’t expect was a truly messy burger to eat – it probably should have come with a bib of some sort. The Portobello mushrooms caused most of the grievance, unleashing their moisture content with no mercy. And while they lent some interesting texture to an otherwise standard burger, I found them a bit too meaty as a topping. Thankfully the rest of the burger – including a notably moist patty and a fresh bun – made the mess worthwhile. 

Out of the Wild Burger

Mack enjoyed his hot dog (perhaps more so, because it was the more dainty of the two entrees), though he did relay that the idea of a bacon-topped hot dog wasn’t quite as well realized as he had hoped for. 

Delux Dog

The fries were really what we had been looking forward to, served a la “carts”. I had seen the mini shopping carts in a gift store in Germany years ago, and have been kicking myself for not picking up a few then – the serving vehicle gets me every time. As for the fries themselves, I loved the sweet potato crisps, especially paired with the tangy dipping mayo.

Delux Duo (a la cart!)

The complimentary meal-ending cotton candy is another fanciful touch that scores points with me, even if we never manage to finish the dome. A sticky throwback to childhood beats peppermint sweets every time.

Cotton Candy finish

Century Hospitality’s Chris Lachance indicated in May that a second Delux is in the works for November. I haven’t heard anything about it since then, but don’t be surprised if another Burger Bar pops up in the city. With their formulaic flair for whimsy, I have no doubt a second Delux would be also be a smashing success.

Delux Burger Bar
9682 142 Street
(780) 420-0101