Another Chain, Another Disappointment: Applebee’s Neighbourhood Grill & Bar

It was a sad Thursday indeed when Bettina and I couldn’t come up with any more inspiring southside eateries than Applebee’s (10390 51 Avenue). But as we both hadn’t been there before, it wasn’t a total loss, as we are always up to try new restaurants.

This particular building has a history of failed establishments attached to it – changing hands from The Cheesecake Cafe to Maxwell Taylor’s to EMW and now to its current tenant. I hadn’t been to EMW, so I’m not sure how much of the interior remains from the previous design, but for a “neighbourhood grill & bar” (a tagline suspiciously similar to Kelsey’s might I add), the decor is quite sleek – dark wood, large vases, spot lighting. I hate to say it, but it’s almost nicer than the menu allows at face value.
Like Kelsey’s and Ricki’s, the casual, family-friendly menu at Applebee’s boasts an unsurprising variety of sandwiches, burgers, and pastas. I had to laugh at our over-eager server (who was probably not more than 13 years old), who introduced, with karate-chop flare, their featured “Irresist-A-Bowls.” Though tempting, I bypassed the specials and chose the Three Cheese Penne (mozzarella, provolone and parmesan cheeses top off a rich mix of penne pasta, Italian-seasoned grilled chicken, diced tomatoes, fresh basil and Alfredo sauce), while Bettina ordered a Chicken Sandwich.
The wait wasn’t unbearable, but by the time our food had been delivered, most of the patrons had cleared out – at this rate, I wondered if we would be seeing another “For Lease” sign soon. As for our entrees, the portion sizes were unforgivably small. Perhaps it was my oversight to order pasta, but I couldn’t help but think that for a mere $2 more at Olive Garden, I would have had access to unlimited salad and breadsticks; or at Denny’s, for $4 less, I’d receive twice as much food. Applebee’s might offer “healthy” portion sizes, but somehow that seems like the optimistic point of view.
In my quest to try as many restaurants as possible, I can’t just overlook the chains. That said, these generic, no-concept chains haven’t had a good track record so far.
Menu
Interior
Three Cheese Penne
Chicken Sandwich

Live & Let Fringe: Wrap-up

It was a year of many Fringe firsts for me, including the purchase of a Frequent Fringer pass, Die-Nasty, a deep-fried chocolate bar, and more plays than I’ve ever seen over the course of one festival. I also continued my role as a Fringe Evangelist, exposing two more newbies to the wonders of indoor productions (I’ll do a better job of pre-screening plays for my sister though, else Felicia may never again return to theatre). And of course, who could forget the controversial changes to the ticketing system? It was high drama scrutinized in the media, in line-ups, and on stage.

Despite all of this, Live & Let Fringe left me unsatisfied. It could have been the concentration of great plays I saw at the opening of the festival (as opposed to this weekend), or the consistently grey weather throughout, but there was just something missing from 007.

For those who haven’t gotten their fix, holdovers start this Wednesday. Although I’m disappointed that my pick of the Fringe, Madagascar, was left off of the schedule, I’d recommend The Power of Ignorance (which might play better to a larger crowd in the Arts Barns).

Only 355 days before the madness begins again – see you next year!

Live & Let Fringe: Day 10

After brunch, May and I headed down to the Fringe site to catch Chance Moments (Stage 11). One of the few productions I picked based on its written description in the program, the play catalogued a series of snapshots integral to the rise – and fall – of a couple’s relationship. The script and direction themselves weren’t bad (the use of everyday objects as scene starters was a nice touch), but the acting was simply not there. Kyle Schroter in particular was flat, emotionless, and couldn’t grasp the concept of pacing and beats. The production ran ten minutes short of its advertised show length, indicative of an all-too rushed delivery, and the actors’ inability to embrace poignant pauses. As a whole, the story was one that I have seen done better elsewhere (last year’s 52 Pick-up, for example), and with anaemic acting, Chance Moments ended up being one of my weakest picks this Fringe.

To round out the festival, I met up with Dickson for his selection of El Muchacho (Stage 1). A musical primarily starring teens, the plot had been adapted from Gilbert and Sullivan’s The Mikado (whatever that meant). A complicated “love story” involving an executioner, a blood-thirsty president, his guitaristo son, and a chica nicknamed Dum-Dum, the ninety minute production seemed to go on and on. There were also a number of offbeat pop culture references (including a snipe about Ryan Smyth) that Dickson didn’t appreciate – he felt they distracted from the play as a whole. A few days ago, I came across a review of this play in the Journal, and although I didn’t read the text of the article, the headline stuck in my mind – “Easy on the eyes, but often hard on the ears.” Too true. Lead male singer John Tribiger, as the tale’s Romeo, could not hold a note, and more often than not, was inaudible. Thankfully, the lead female, Katherine Carleton, could sing, but with her talent, it’s a wonder how she was cast opposite Tribiger. All this being said, I guess I shouldn’t be too hard on this group of kids; I can’t imagine getting up on stage to act, let alone sing. So bravo for their effort…but the onus will simply be on me to avoid amateur musicals in the future.

Only for the View: Riverside Bistro at Courtyard Marriott

Annie, Janice, May and I finally followed through on our year-long quest to eat at the Courtyard Marriott’s Riverside Bistro (99 Street & Jasper Avenue).

Meeting for brunch on a grey Saturday, it wasn’t the best weather to enjoy one of the best views of the city, but it did make us appreciate one of the last true summer weekends (Annie spotted some leaves on trees below that were already changing color). It was a bit chilly out, so we opted to eat indoors, but we made the most of it with a nice corner table with a great view of the river valley. The restaurant was surprisingly quiet, as we shared the dining room with only one other table. It was a sign.

I was disappointed that the Bistro didn’t offer a brunch menu, but I made do with the Alberta Beef Dip and a side of lentil chicken curry soup. The dish was far from what I would expect from a hotel restaurant. The soup was good, and the beef was all right, but the bread had obviously been flash-thawed from the freezer, resulting in a soggy and half-baked bun. Janice and May found their food sub-par as well.

Moreover, service was sporadic throughout our meal, as our waiter was apparently also the only bartender available, and was therefore forced to go back and forth between the dining room and two weddings taking place at the hotel that afternoon. He did his best to juggle his tasks, but things were inevitably missed.

Thus, the patio, and not the food, ended up being the main attraction. It reminded me of (television reference) Lauren’s Laguna Beach house, and with a built-in bar and awning, would function as a great venue for an intimate celebration.

So buyer beware – I would recommend drinks at Riverside under ideal conditions.

Dining room

Menu

Alberta Beef Dip

Janice’s Grilled Pork Loin Burger

May’s Maple Barbequed Salmon

Annie’s Zinfandel Fruit Salad

Patio

View from the patio

Live & Let Fringe: Day 9

Before lining up for our play on Friday night, I convinced Mack to join me in another Fringe first – a deep fried chocolate bar. Battered then fried, I can best describe it as a “corn dog gone wrong.” Biting into it, the coating suggests that there was to be something of substance on the inside, while in reality, only a mass of melting chocolate greets you. In the end, the combination of salty, sweet and oily tastes didn’t make for a very pleasing treat. Mack claimed that it was “disgusting,” but said in between mouthfuls of the delicacy, I didn’t believe him. For me anyway, this was both a Fringe first and last.

Mack picked Out of Pocket (Stage 7) as his play of choice this year, a story involving an expectant couple and a pair of homeless people who panhandled on the street in front of their apartment. With the help of a hat and a scarf worn multiple ways, Mark Jenkins and Vanessa Sabourin played all of the characters involved. Sabourin in particular (on the heels of her exceptional performance in Madagascar) seamlessly transitioned from one role to another, and was quite good as the comically nasal mistress Jesse. Mack found the plot to be a bit routine (going the “just desserts” path), and I had to agree. Not a bad play on its own, but compared to the productions I had watched earlier on in the festival, Out of Pocket was just average.

Where Fish Come to Fry: Brit’s Fish & Chips

I had heard that Brit’s Fish & Chips (11603 104 Avenue) served deep fried chocolate bars, but in addition to that (and probably why most people would visit), prepared authentic food that lived up to its name. On Friday, I gave it a try.

The set-up is very casual, with an order counter, a giant menu tacked up on the wall behind it, and cushioned folding chairs. The Brits logo is plastered throughout the restaurant, though for such a small establishment (with only one other location), it’s a little odd a branding force is in play at all. Still, the furnishings are comfortable, and the decorative kitsch of rustic signage actually works to create a welcoming atmosphere.

I ordered a one piece cod meal combo, which came with a drink and my choice of side (mushy peas in this case). The fish was likely freshly prepared, which explained the short waiting period. When the food arrived, I dug into the peas, only to discover they tasted like rehydrated lentils, and not fresh peas. It was my mistake in assuming the dish would be otherwise. The fish, on the other hand, was very good, with a light coating of fried batter that wasn’t too dense or oily. Unfortunately, the same could not be said for the chips, which were a tad too heavy for me (I prefer my fries crisp).

Brit’s shuts down early, at 9pm (I had to wonder if it had to do with a lack of lighting sources in the dining room), so go early for their catch of the day.

Cod and chips with mushy peas
Two piece cod and chips

Many Happy Returns: Leva Cappuccino Bar

I was on the hunt for a good panini sandwich today, and remembered Leva (11053 86 Avenue). As I was heading to the nearby Jubilee Auditorium later that evening anyway, it was a convenient stopover.

I ordered the 4 cheese and roasted tomato panini, which came served with a lovely vegetable salad dressed with a sweet and sour balsamic vinaigrette. The sandwich was nicely toasted, and the cheese satisfyingly melted.

This was only my second visit to the cafe, but I love Leva’s vibe. The choice of classic soul tunes created an upbeat and easygoing atmosphere, and the service has been friendly and helpful. A bonus for me – their selection of cooking and entertaining magazines are a source of welcome distraction for me. Who needs a free daily when you’ve got Donna Hay?

My only complaint is their cash-only policy. Though they have an in-house ATM, it’s hard not to see it as an underhanded cash cow; not only do they not have to pay debit machine and credit card charges, but they also get to collect wayward ATM transaction fees on top of that.

Despite that, I still readily recommend Leva – for their food, coffee, and gelato – but make sure you’ve got some cash on hand.

4 cheese panini

Live & Let Fringe: Day 4

I took my sisters to Strawberries in January (Stage 6) today. There was quite a bit of buzz surrounding this romantic comedy before the festival even began (directed by Mieko Ouchi, starring real-life couple Chris Bullough and Jana O’Connor), so I had high expectations going in. There was just something missing about the production, but what I can’t quite put my finger on. Bullough (as Francois) was solid, Patrick Howarth had his usual presence, and I really have no complaints about the female cast members, but besides a few tender moments (Bullough’s laundromat confession of loving Sophie’s flaws was touching), the script felt empty. Besides Francois’ pleas, I never really saw the evidence I needed to want to see him united with his beau, and because of that, the ending was abrupt and smelled more than a little of deux ex machina. Strawberries in January is far from being a bad play, but one I just can’t recommend.

With the return of the work week, I’ll be giving the Fringe a rest for a few days. But I’ll be back for a handful of plays before the close of the festival.

Live & Let Fringe: Day 3

My third day at the festival was a morning-to-night affair. While many of the Fringing public prefer wandering the grounds in the evening, I can honestly say I like arriving on site early. To grab a coffee and a paper, walk the alleys before a single vendor has opened, and appreciate the quiet before the storm has become a personal tradition for me. I haven’t been as fanatical this year about needing to secure those coveted front-row-centre seats, but I do remain tied to lining up somewhat early alongside fellow die-hard Fringers.

My first show of the day was The World’s Wife (Stage 2), which features two of my favorite actresses – Davina Stewart and Leona Brausen. Adapted from poems by award-winning Carol Anne Duffy, the play cycles through solo vignettes of wives of famous figures throughout history. I have never before seen a Fringe production with such elaborate costumes; the price of admission is easily recouped based on the wardrobe changes alone (Stewart’s showstopping Medusa gown garnered a few gasps from the audience). Beyond aesthetics, the perspectives on sacrifice, love, sexual power, and subordination are portrayed perfectly by the three women (Brausen’s incredibly astute Mrs. Darwin was my hands-down favorite). Trevor Schmidt’s direction was notably creative – casting Eurydice (Orpheus’s tragic love) as a stand-up comedian complete with a laugh track was inspired. A likely candidate for the post-Fringe holdovers, The World’s Wife is a fun and intelligent play.

Later that afternoon, I headed to Stage 6 (Catalyst Theatre, and in my opinion the best of the Fringe venues) for Madagascar. It is without question the best play I have seen at the Fringe so far this year, and one that I almost don’t want to write about for fear that I will not do it justice. The premise, as presented in the program, is simple, “three Americans find themselves alone, in the same hotel room overlooking the Spanish Steps in Rome.” Operating on different timelines, it took some time to piece together the story, but believe me, it is worth the effort. Haunting, sad, tragic – Madagascar asks difficult questions about family, identity, relationships, and personal needs in beautiful prose illuminated by the exceptional ensemble of Vanessa Sabourin, David Ley and Coralie Cairns. Sabourin and Ley in particular shone – the audience felt their pain, confusion and frustration on every step of their journey. I will stop there, but like Esther’s Hands and The Bone House from Fringes past, Madagascar has left an indelible impression on me.

That night, I met up with a friend to watch David Belke’s The Head Shot of Dorian Grey (BYOV C). As my friend remarked, Belke’s productions are reliable, his name nearly synonymous with “romantic comedy” at the Fringe. This incarnation involves two young actors (Jesse Gervais, Katherine Fadum) who first meet at an audition, but don’t discover their chemistry on stage until a joint reading of Romeo & Juliet. Setting the play in the world of theatre allowed Belke to share his inside observations gleaned from personal experience, but it seemed to get out of hand at times – the one hundred minute play felt long, with each crazy audition coming off like filler and like another stall tactic to keep the two would-be lovers apart. Gervais has never blown me away before, but here he was very natural, good humored, and likable. And oh, that gaze – did I ever want to be on the receiving end of that stare. Also a Belke standard, the supporting characters, or in this case, the supporting actors cast in multiple roles, were superb. So much so that the play could have germinated from a decision to test the deft versatility of Linda Grass and Glenn Nelson in a series of quirky but forgettable characters. Overall, Dorian Grey is cute, but not as memorable as many a Belke play.

We ended the evening with a quick bite at Murietta’s. The high ceilings might be nice to look at, but had an echo-chamber effect, with the room reaching a surprisingly-high volume. I ordered the portabello mushroom ravioli, and while it reached our table in no time at all, the dish itself was nothing special. The slightly pricey menu matches the elegant setting, but I’d much rather head to the more casual Dadeo’s or Cafe Mosaics anytime.

Live & Let Fringe: Day 2

Walking the grounds this year, it appeared that vendor numbers are down, with less food and merchandise kiosks on site. At least, the glut that usually line Gateway Boulevard and 104th Street are missing; I wonder if less permits were distributed this year?

I asked Dickson and Mack to join me for two shows on Friday evening. The first was The Power of Ignorance (Stage 5), a show that was impossible to get tickets for when it premiered in Edmonton in 2003. I am not a fan of solo performances, but after this, I now know that I simply have to choose the ones involving stand-up comedians. Chris Gibbs was hilarious as the (de)motivational speaker Vaguen. He had the perfect voice for the part, and could have easily been cocking his eyebrow for the duration of his satiric performance. Much of the punchlines were delivered rapid-fire, so I can’t say that I picked up everything, but the script was extremely clever, pulling apart popular expressions and universal truths. I also enjoyed the segue ways into his childhood – the anecdotes humanized Vaguen, and rounded out the play nicely by providing a storyline of sorts to follow. Get tickets while you can – the play garnered a 4.5 rating in the Saturday Journal.

We had some time to wander and relax before our second show, so ended up sitting in the near-empty beer tent on “Westjet Way” (compared to the standing room only one next to the Walterdale), and saw at least four Die-Nasty cast members leaving the tent. So if you want to do some celebrity-spotting…

Die-Nasty has been on my hit-list for years, but the late showtime has always been a deterrent, so I was glad to finally be able to participate in this Fringe tradition (Stage 8). I was sad to see that Jeff Haslam was absent from the cast, but Davina Stewart/Mark Meer/Leona Brausen had their A-games going, so that made up for the void somewhat. At the other end of the spectrum, I suspect the actress who played the Constable was smashed, because she was annoyingly disruptive and intruded on quite a few scenes; hopefully she straightens up for the rest of the Fringe run. There were many inside theatre jokes (including Ron Pederson’s comment about the pretentious “scarf-wearing” public, a reference to his recent letter to See Magazine and the subsequent ripple effect), but much of the humor came from the snide remarks directed at the changes in this year’s festival (buying tickets at “West Edmonton Mall”). It occurred to me that this troupe of actors are very lucky to have such a venue to publicly air out their grievances with the Fringe leadership – but if anything, they’ve earned it. In all, this episode wasn’t as funny as the season finale I attended back in May, but I can now remove it from my Fringe to-do list.