Still not Impressed: Sorrentino’s Little Italy

Partly because I wanted to check out Zocalo’s flower selection, and partly because I had a Sorrentino’s gift card to use, Mack and I ended up at the Little Italy location of Sorrentino’s (10844 95 Street) on Friday night.

This was my third trip to a Sorrentino’s in the past six months or so (reviews of my other visits are here), and I still can’t figure out how they have managed to develop the reputation they have. While their food is never outright disappointing, I have never been blown away by their service, meals, or ambiance.

The location in Little Italy is the most casual and informal one that I have been to, but was actually a lot smaller than I anticipated. A hearth on one side, a bar tucked in the back corner, aged wood, and checkered red and white table cloths did their job of conveying a homey feel. For a Friday evening however, the restaurant was surprisingly empty. Throughout our meal, just two parties rotated through – I had to wonder if it was even worth it for the Sorrentino’s Group to keep this location open.

At any rate, the current Garlic Festival meant we had additional menu choices (I loved the advertising slogan – “All you need is clove”). Mack ended up ordering the Ravioli Pollo ($17), sliced chicken and ravioli tossed in a lemon pepper garlic cream sauce, while I chose the Mamma’s Lasagna ($14.25) off of the regular menu, hoping it would be just as cheesy as the time I had it at the southside location.

Our plates arrived in no time. Mack enjoyed his pasta, and the definite garlic flavour that came with it. My lasagna, however, wasn’t completely warmed through, and being the cheese monger that I am, I was looking for more than just a token sprinkling of parmesan.

If someone knows what I’m missing about Sorrentino’s, I’m willing to be englightened. But as it stands, I still can’t see the appeal of what has turned out to be just a locally-owned chain of forgettable restaurants.

Interior

All you need is clove!

Ravioli Pollo

Mamma’s Lasagna

Lunch in Light: 4th & Vine

Echo and I stopped for lunch at 4th & Vine Wine Bar & Bistro (11358 104 Avenue) in Oliver Square on Friday, hoping for a quiet place to catch up.

I’d been to 4th & Vine a while back for their Sunday evening “dinner and a movie” event, and found it nice enough, but had always meant to go back. The narrow dining area, with its bank of high windows opposite the bar, was even more gorgeous with the sunlight streaming in on a warm, spring-like day. The restaurant was empty, save one table, so we chose to sit at one of the booths near the door – a table that I thought was perfect for a business meeting if one needed to spread out a bit.

The menu that we received looked slightly different than what appears on the website (I was disappointed with the lack of a gnocci entree), but both Echo and I were intrigued by the Roasted Turkey Breast Sandwich (poached pears, turkey breast and emmenthal on multigrain bread with cranberry dijon), served with either a soup or salad for just $10.

Our food took a little longer than I anticipated (especially given the nearly-empty restaurant), but our cheerful waitress and the venue tempered our wait somewhat. When our sandwich and soup combos arrived, I was surprised to see actual slices of turkey encased within; I had expected sliced deli-meats, so this hearty filling was a nice surprise. The meat was fairly moist, and the sweetness of the cranberry made our sandwich seem like a post-Thanksgiving treat. The pears were perfectly poached, but between the bread and the turkey, the subtle flavour of the fruit was lost. The cream of tomato soup rounded out the meal nicely, though the slightly sour aftertaste was something I couldn’t get used to.

4th & Vine might be too far for those working in the downtown core, but is worth venturing out to if you’re looking for a quietly elegant place to eat.

Interior

Roasted Turkey Breast Sandwich & Cream of Tomato Soup

A Well-Kept Secret: Backstreet Bistro

Always looking for untried lunch spots within walking distance of my workplace, I finally had some time on Thursday to patronize Backstreet Bistro (10055 106 Street).

With a street entrance literally tucked in an alleyway, I can honestly say that I didn’t notice this restaurant, located on the ground floor of the HSBC Tower, until just a few weeks ago when I happened to look to my right while walking east on Jasper Avenue. As I would find out, most of the customers there were regulars who worked in the building, so I wouldn’t be surprised if the existence of the eatery is still something of a best-kept secret.

I arrived at a quarter past eleven, and was greeted by an empty restaurant – I had beaten the rush! The very friendly owner joked about reserving the entire place for me, and encouraged me to take my time with the menu boards, which were hung just above the order counter. Backstreet Bistro serves up breakfast fare weekdays from 7-10am, and lunch at 11, with midday selections of sandwiches, noodle soups, and chef special vermicelli plates, priced between $7-10. After some perusal, I decided to go with the Charbroiled Beef ($7.25).

While waiting for my food, I was able to watch the trickle of patrons come through the door. The rapport the owner had with the majority of the customers reminded me very much of Amy of Chicken for Lunch fame, as he referred to his regulars as “VIPs”, sometimes topping off their orders with a little extra.

My dish arrived in no time, garnished with a sprig of parsley and plated with a surprising amount of care. I had requested a “mild” level of spice, so the amount of hot sauce drizzled over the beef was, in my opinion, closer to full-on “spicy” than anything else. But other than that, I had no complaints – the little bits of charcoal that clung to the flat, pounded slices of beef added a wonderful smoky flavour to the dish, and the pickled carrots, cut into jagged fry-like slices, added an additional crunch and sour bite to the mix.

In the end, I was comfortably full, with a seemingly well-balanced meal that didn’t feel at all greasy. Unfortunately, Backstreet Bistro is only open during the day, but if you’re in the area, be sure to stop in for a good lunch that won’t break the bank.

Exterior

Interior

Menu

Charbroiled Beef and Spring Rolls

“The Hills”: Season 3.5

I’ve been chomping at the bit waiting for any of my appointment television shows to begin airing new material, so the return of The Hills was a welcome sight.

Nothing particularly unexpected has happened yet, four episodes (and two weeks) into this extension of the third season, but as in years past, a lot of content shown in the trailer for this season has already been aired. Whitney’s moved on from Teen Vogue, Lauren and Spencer’s sister Stephanie have become fast friends, and Lauren and Brody had their very mature confrontation about his personal life.

I’m looking forward to the return of Stephen Colletti(!), a cleaned-up Justin Bobby (funny how we get attached to the girls’ old flames), and more screen time for Lo, who always provides the necessary voice of reason.

The After Show still continues to puzzle me somewhat; I wonder if the hosts and their “friends” are barred from referencing material outside of the 22-minute episodes? Otherwise, how can they take scenes like Spencer moving out seriously, with the plethora of fresh paparazzi photographs of Speidi out on the town available on a weekly basis?

For that reason, I have to disagree with a recent New York Times article declaring Heidi a “feminist hero”:

“Defying our expectations, Heidi has emerged as a kind of feminist hero this season, climbing her way to a bigger position at the event-planning company where she orchestrates Nascar parties, and refusing to acquiesce to the demands of her fiancé, Spencer, that she get herself home on time. Her career-mindedness sets their relationship off course. Heidi identifies the problem with no name: a boyfriend who sits around an apartment decorated to look like an ’80s video arcade while trying to deny Heidi a real wedding with the glory of registering. Her groundswell of self-assertion begins when he insists on eloping, prompting Heidi to declare, ‘This isn’t, like, Spencer’s relationship and you decide what we do.'”

Such false “self assertion” – mugging independence for the cameras, then running back to her so-labelled deadbeat fiance once the “captured reality” is over is almost worse.

In any case, I will still be tuning in every Monday night. The Hills is a guilty pleasure in every sense of the phrase.

Random Notes

  • Mack and I decided to go on a photo walk on a lazy Sunday afternoon – just snapping pictures as we wandered around Downtown Edmonton. Check out the photo set here.
  • I received a nice surprise in the mail this week – a package advertising the Edmonton Symphony Orchestra‘s upcoming season, complete with a CD of music which samples what will likely be played next year. Cool!
  • Teatro la Quindicina will be back in May! At long last.
  • I had to cringe when I saw a page advertising South Edmonton Common as a neighbourhood to visit in the March/April edition of Where Edmonton. Do we really want out-of-towners to think box stores are all the city has to offer?
  • There was actually a banner advertising The Hills on the front page of tsn.ca the other day. Though I’m sure many women frequent the sports website, are there enough in the show’s target demographic to make it worthwhile?
  • More Hills-related news: there may be a feature-length film in the works. Seriously?
  • I finally watched Atonement, and boy was it disappointing. I couldn’t get used to how the camera lingered on seemingly unimportant scenes for much too long, and how the relationship between Keira Knightley and James McAvoy wasn’t fleshed out, especially as it was framed as the crux of the movie.
  • On the good-rental front, I loved Enchanted! The musical numbers were fun, and this was definitely a star turn for Amy Adams. It was nice to see Idina Menzel pop up as well. Have you seen any good movies lately?

Food Notes

    A supersized version to make up for a lack of food notes last week:

    • I’ve been found: Kerstin’s Chocolates linked to my blog post about The Cocoa Room on the News events of their website.
    • Rumor, as reported by Bob Mac on Chowhound: “the folks from Luxe are opening a lounge in the space below the reovated condos formerly occupied by Terry Vaugn’s Sports Bar.” Hmm…
    • Edmonton has a new-ish independent coffee house: The Wired Cup (9418 91 Street) is part cafe (serving coffee made from Transcend beans and tea from Steeps) and part gift store.
    • Speaking of coffee, Starbucks announced their acquisition of The Coffee Equipment Company, makers of the $11,000 Clover coffee maker. Besides phasing in Clover machines into their stores, they will also be introducing a rewards program and an online community.
    • Judy Schultz was back this week with a Bistro column on the Grueneberg family behind Greens, Eggs and Ham.
    • I like the idea of alternative dining areas – in Calgary, Vue Cafe offers art alongside their open kitchen, and the Calgary Zoo offers brunch on Sundays!
    • If you’re looking for a local farmer’s market to tide you over until the City Centre resumes operation in May, look no further than the Salisbury Greenhouse in Sherwood Park. A list of about 30 vendors is here (I love that they’ve done their best to take pictures of the majority of the vendors as well).
    • Via Serious Eats, a quote in the New Yorker worth considering from chef David Chang on the internal pressures he faces: “It’s not that I’m not happy; I’m just fearful for the future. I’m fearful that everything’s gonna be taken away. Fear is a driving force for most of the things that I do. I don’t know if that’s healthy.” So honest.
    • Chang is one of the five chefs nominated in the “Best Chef: NYC” category for the prestigous James Beard Awards. Nice to see Gramercy Tavern nominated, if not only because I had the privilege of eating there in December, and even nicer to see Canadian Trish Magwood’s book Dish Entertains up for an award.
    • After reading what a New York Times writer did with food purchased from local 99cent stores, I’m tempted to attempt a similar experiment.
    • Iron Chef America is being turned into a video game. It was only a matter of time, I guess. But then again, if I can “be” Bobby Flay, I can’t say I wouldn’t give it a try!
    • I can’t speak highly enough of Route 99 Diner (8820 99 Street). Comfortable, clean, offering good service and greasy spoon favorites, if you need a quick meal, look no further than Route 99. Here are a few photos to whet your appetite:

    Grilled Ham & Cheese

    Pepperoni & Mushroom Pizza

    Poutine

    The Cooking Chronicles: White Chocolate Tartlets

    Dessert party practice-run #2 involved a Giada recipe for White Chocolate Hazelnut Tartlets. As neither of us had worked with phyllo pastry before, I knew we had to try it with time to spare before attempting to duplicate it without error next week.

    After finding out that toasting hazelnuts would take nearly half an hour, I decided to leave them out this time. The white chocolate and whipped cream mixture was a cinch to whip up, and after it had chilled in the fridge for an hour, it was time to move on to the phyllo.

    I had let the package thaw on the counter since the afternoon, so the thin sheets of pastry were more than pliable. So much so that a tear appeared in more than one sheet. Thankfully, the layers of brushed butter and phyllo covered any small mistakes we made.

    We scrunched them down in large muffin tins, doing our best to create “artful” edges, and baked them for about 8 minutes. We figured the mini-muffin tins would be better for dessert-party servings, and will be making smaller versions next week.

    A drop of Nutella into a cooled phyllo cup, a dollop of white chocolate whipped cream, and a sprinkling of chocolate shavings later, the tartlets was done. One that should be made just prior to serving, it may be the only dessert that we will be creating from scratch (the Nutella doesn’t count, Andrea), the morning of.

    Just over a week to go!

    Mack doing the dishes (he offered!)
    White Chocolate Tartlets

    Delivered at your own Expense: Dawat

    A combination of three things resulted in our decision to order from Dawat on Saturday: 1) I was feeling particularly lazy; 2) I had been craving Indian food for the last week; and 3) Mack was on a spicy-food streak that he didn’t want to break.

    I had read positive things about Dawat (granted, from an eat-in experience), but as the advertisement in the 2007/2008 Yellow Pages restaurants section boasted a promise of free delivery for those in the south side, our decision was made.

    We called the Dawat located in Little India (9250 34 Avenue), and ordered Butter Chicken (a must), Beef Vindaloo (always spicy), Mixed Vegetables (for token healthiness), and Garlic Naan (when I asked how big the serving size was, I received a response of “Good enough.”). We had some coconut milk in the house, and though more Thai than Indian, my Mum made us some coconut rice to accompany our dishes.

    At the end of our order, I was told the total would be $45.99, including tax. Count me surprised – my estimated total from the prices listed in the Restaurant Pages was closer to $37. It turns out the beef and chicken dishes had increased in cost from $11.95 to $14.95, while the vegetables had gone up from $8.95 to $11.95. Though I don’t regret giving their delivery service a try, it would have been cheaper just to take advantage of their in-house buffet.

    At any rate, our order was delivered promptly within the 45 to 60 minute range, with all of our food still fairly hot. The containers were smaller than we expected however, especially given the exorbitant price increase over the last year.

    The butter chicken was the definite stand-out of the three – tender meat enveloped in a thick, slightly sweet sauce. It was also the least spicy of the dishes, and the only one I could actually taste; after a few bites of the beef vindaloo and mixed vegetables, I was crying for milk, or anything else that would return the sensation into my mouth.

    We had enough food left over for another meal at the end of it, and it did satisfy my craving for Indian cuisine, but because of the expense, I still don’t think it was worth it.

    Take-out!

    Bustling but Bland: Upper Crust Cafe

    I met May for brunch at Upper Crust Cafe (10909 86 Avenue) on Saturday morning. I had been there for dinner many years ago, but had been meaning to try their popular Saturday brunch for a while now.

    No reservations were permitted, so we made sure to arrive before 11am to hopefully avoid the weekend breakfast crowd. There were quite a few seats when I stepped into the restaurant, and thus I was seated right away. While waiting for May, I surveyed the dining area. I loved the bustling room, with the irresistible chiming of dishes and conversational overtones catching in the rafters. The room, lined with windows allowing for the meek sunshine available that morning to pour through, helped brighten the space, and made for a lovely daytime setting.

    After May arrived, we looked over the menu, focusing on the more filling options. What stuck out the most to me were the reasonable prices – none of the plates were over $10. May chose the Tex-Mex Eggs, 2 poached eggs on an English muffin,with spicy salsa, served with hashbrowns and fresh fruit garnish ($9.75), while I opted for one of the three omelette options (potato, green onion, cheese), which was served with multigrain toast and fresh fruit garnish ($9.75).

    The service wasn’t notable (it took a while for my coffee to be refilled), but it wasn’t horrible either, especially given the size of the room our server had to cover. That said, the food wasn’t particularly exciting either. May found the salsa rather bland, and the English muffin underneath her eggs too soggy to be enjoyable. My omelette was rather devoid of cheese, and although the potatoes provided the hearty kick that I was looking for, even a side of ketchup would have added some needed “flavour” to my dish.

    While I can’t say I won’t be back (the setting and location of Upper Crust make it a convenient meeting place), there are a few other local brunch spots I’d defer to before returning.

    Menu
    Tex-Mex Eggs
    3 Egg Omelette (with some potato peeking out)

    Fresh and Friendly: Da Capo Cafe

    I had a quick coffee at Da Capo Caffe (8738-109 Street) over the summer, but I had always been meaning to go back to give their menu a try. An opportunity came up on Wednesday evening to do so.

    While I’m still not sure that I like the design of the cafe, I understand the reasoning behind it. The dining area is essentially split in half by the substantially-sized staff/food preparation area smack in the middle of the cafe. This does allow for two lines – one for espressos and another for food, but in my opinion this division creates a lack of harmony in the seating space.

    At any rate, I approached a staff member with the simple question of “What is there to eat?” He led me to a chalkboard menu on the other side of the counter, listing a dozen or so pizzas, calzones and salads in the $10-15 range. I did a quick scan of my options, and chose the Margherita ($10.50, including tax). A patron next to me in line ordered the black truffle-prosciutto-parmesan variety without hesitation, which the server noted was his own favorite, so I may have to return in the future to try a more adventurous topping combination. A note on payment – cash is the only means accepted, so like Leva, you have to be prepared.

    I took a seat on one of the stools facing the windows looking out onto 109 Street (I find the rest of the space much too dim), and was immediately brought my requested glass of water. The wait was tempered by a free weekly I had picked up on the way, and half-way through the paper, my pizza arrived. The server wasn’t kidding when he said the pizza was ideal for sharing – it was huge! The sauce was reminiscent of the sweet tomato base used by Famoso, nice and light, but the best part of the pizza was by far the crust. Addictively crunchy, I would have gladly consumed an entire plate of breadsticks made from the bread alone. And though it hit the spot that day, I would pick Leva’s version if forced to choose.

    Still, with great service and interesting menu items, I wouldn’t hesitate to return to Da Capo.

    Margherita Pizza