Category: restaurant reviews

Frozen Yogurt Frenzy: Kiwi Kiss

I have fro-yo envy. Certain US metropolises like New York are overflowing with frozen yogurt joints like Pinkberry and Red Mango, so much so that the competition forces each shop to find their niche, or at least, maintain a high level of quality to retain its customers. We had the chance to visit Iceberry in DC, and loved it as an alternative to a cafe or ice cream parlour.

More than that though, while I’ll have my share of ice cream throughout the year, there’s something about the fruit content and relative lightness of frozen yogurt that appeals to me more as a cold treat. And yes, I do feel less guilty after indulging in a large serving of frozen yogurt than when I have done the same with ice cream or even gelato.

In Edmonton, we have had to rely on a handful of Yogen Fruz outlets, most in shopping centres and others a concession option at Cineplex Theatres…until now.

Kiwi Kiss opened about a month ago in the lower level of the City Centre Shopping Centre, next to Starbucks, while folks in Sherwood Park have Twisted Yogurt Creations (138, 1020 Sherwood Drive, 780-416-1133), open since August of this year, to satiate their cravings.

Kiwi Kiss

I noticed the sign for Kiwi Kiss months ago, but wasn’t aware that it was a frozen yogurt purveyor until I came upon it again on Saturday afternoon while we were in line for Starbucks. I loved the eye-catching green and orange colour scheme and globe lights. I asked the friendly clerks if I could snap their photo for my food blog with an intention to return on a different day. But after they agreed to my request with some curiosity, one of the clerks offered me a sample on the house!

Topping selection

I happily asked for her recommendation, and she obliged, selecting her favourite matcha green tea for me. Kiwi Kiss also offers three additional flavours – original, coconut and acai. Of the dozen or so toppings, including fruit and dry goods, I selected strawberries and blueberries. She threw in a few mochi balls (glutinous rice) which she indicated were an acquired taste, but which she quite enjoys herself. I’ve had them before, but would never have thought to pair it with frozen yogurt.

Kiwi Kiss Frozen Yogurt

As with green tea ice cream, I was expecting an overwhelming, even slightly bitter taste of green tea, but the flavour was subtle, and enjoyably cool to the palate. Mack was anticipating a sweeter yogurt as well, but found it just right. The fruit was a nice touch, even though the berries are far from being in season. The mochi provided some interesting chewy texture, but they didn’t add anything to the yogurt, at least for me.

Prices start at $2.95 for a teaser (small) size of original without toppings, up to $7.95 for nirvana (large) size of the flavoured frozen yogurt with toppings. The size I would likely pick up myself – a small flavoured yogurt with toppings – is priced at a reasonable $4.85, definitely on par with ice creams of similar size. Fruit parfait ($4.95-$5.95) and probiotic iced teas (under $4) are also available.

I look forward to satisfying future fro-yo cravings at Kiwi Kiss – I hope this means more purveyors are on the horizon in the city!

Kiwi Kiss
10088 102 Avenue (Edmonton City Centre Mall)

The Comfort is in the Heat: Boualouang

Though Chinatown is only a ten minute walk from Downtown, depending on what event we’re running to, sometimes it is an additional distance we don’t have time to travel. That wasn’t the case on Thursday, when both the weather and our schedules were cooperative, with our Global Visions screening at Paramount falling at 8 (on a sidenote – I don’t like the trend of plays moving their start times to 7:30. I like the option of lingering at dinner).

As a result, I was finally able to return to Boualouang, many months after my first visit, and six months since the restaurant relocated down the block to a beautifully-renovated space. While the original location was functional and well-kept, it was bland and visually unattractive. This new venue better suits the wonderful food produced by the kitchen, and of course, provides the owners with a few tables to spare (they seemed to be forever turning people away at the previous restaurant). I especially love the lavish blue drapes that help separate the room from the bustling world outside.

Interior

I was very tempted to order a dish I hadn’t yet tried, but the side of me seeking a familiar, reassuring meal eventually won out. I couldn’t complain though – their green curry is (in my opinion), the best in the city. The chicken was tender, drenched in a sauce lovingly prepared with flavour that was worth the heat (which is saying something for a person who usually stays away from spice). We ended up ordering an additional bowl of coconut rice to soak up the curried goodness, and kept our server busy who insisted on keeping our water glasses filled to the brim.

Green Curry

The pad thai was also great, with a serving size that blows me away each time. Mack loved the grilled shrimp (and surprisingly) the tofu strips, and though isn’t a big fan of the sweet and spicy profile of the dish, was willing to overlook it for me.

Pad Thai

We were both stuffed, with leftovers remaining. For just over $40 (including tip), we were treated to a satisfying, relaxing meal with time to spare before our next engagement. If you’re in the area, be sure to keep Boualouang in mind.

Boualouang
10569 97 Street
(780) 423-4207
Monday-Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm, Sunday 12-9pm

Breakfast Artistry: Cora’s

I really thought 9:45 on a Sunday morning was early enough to escape the brunch-line crunch, but I was wrong. Arriving at Cora’s today, I was greeted with a crowd that not only snaked through the lobby, but onto the sidewalk outside. It made me wonder if the same resilience would hold in colder weather.

Eventually, I was joined by two more of our party of four. Our wait actually didn’t end up being that long – around twenty minutes. As we edged closer to the front of the line, we were able to peer into the kitchen to watch the “breakfast artists” (Cora’s term, not mine) at work firsthand, busily blending smoothies and assembling plates.

“Breakfast artists” at work

The restaurant itself was also larger than it appeared from the outside, with basic wooden tables and chairs divided by four foot high partitions. They broke up the space somewhat, and definitely helped Cora’s maximize the room. Janice made the apt observation that she felt a bit like she was in an elementary classroom – colourful cartoon representations of Cora’s dishes graced the walls, alongside random animal figures perched high on shelves. And though Cora’s is a chain, where each restaurant is likely decorated in a similar way, I had to say I liked the sense of lightness and fun expressed by the interior.

Interior

The family-friendly atmosphere was also highlighted by the many children dining alongside their parents. Moreover, we noticed that the patron demographic seemed to skew pretty young, with the majority of diners in the 20-35 age range.

Our friendly server got the three of us started with beverages right away while we waited for Annie. May ordered the smoothie ($3.95), which changes daily, while Janice and I stuck with coffee ($2.35). After our drinks arrived, and our server knew a friend was still to join us, she checked on us periodically to see if we needed refills, but never pushed us to order, despite the consistent line outside. At some point, recognizing that Annie was running really late, we ordered without her anyway, but with noted appreciation for our server’s patience.

Smoothie

I was excited to see the menu, with some knowledge of Cora’s reputation, especially out east. I loved how visual the menu was, with photos of every dish to illustrate the artistry that goes into every plate. While I usually settle on my meal fairly rapidly, with the choices so vividly represented in front of me, my decision was made all the more difficult. In the end, the ham and swiss crepomelette ($10.95) won out for both May and myself, while Janice ordered the ham panini-crepe, and Annie opted for Cora’s special.

Colourful menu

Though our server apologized profusely for our wait for the food to arrive, I didn’t think the length of time was unreasonable at all (especially given our tardy order placement). My crepe, which had been stuffed with a ham and swiss omelette, was good overall – the lightness of the crepe was notable, as was their generosity with the fillings. The hollandaise was a little on the rich side for my taste however, though I must admit I don’t usually order any dishes containing the sauce. The fruit included was a nice touch (and for me, the small bowl was enough – Janice’s “mountain” of fruit with the panini-crepe would have been too much for me), but the cantaloupe slice made me wish they used only fruits in season.

Ham and Swiss Crepomelette

Panini-Crepe (lovely grill marks)

Cora’s Special (2 eggs, bacon, ham, sausage and crepe)

With excellent service (the roving coffee servers were great), I would not hesitate to recommend Cora’s as a brunch destination. My only nitpick is its location, towards South Edmonton Common, and not easily accessible by public transit. With the success of this outpost, however, perhaps TPTB at Cora’s will consider opening a second branch closer to the core? I can only hope.

Cora’s
111, 2920 Calgary Trail
(780) 465-2672
Monday-Saturday 6am-3pm, Sunday 7am-3pm

For the Love of Nostalgia: Diner Deluxe

On a slushy Saturday morning in Calgary, Mack and I made our way to Diner Deluxe, which has the distinction of being my favourite brunch purveyor in the city. I love the nostalgic feel of the place, the 70s furniture, the pastel walls, and how the kitchen spills into the dining area. It also helps that Diner Deluxe inaugurated me into Calgary’s brunch culture (something Edmonton is sorely missing), and subsequently led me to Nellie’s, Avenue Diner, Dairy Lane and Galaxie Diner, among others.

I find the wait, while the same in duration as some of the other places (anywhere from twenty to forty-five minutes), is tempered with chairs to sit on and self-serve coffee to ease the time. And of course, all of what we look for is there: quick kitchen-to-table service? Check. Coffee refills without request? Check. Heaping portions? Check.

On the back of the menu (too cute)

The rosemary potatoes in my egg and sausage breakfast were outstanding, crispy and flecked with herbs. The portion of sausage included was also quite generous. Mack’s stuffed French toast was a little unevenly prepared, with gobs of cheese in certain sections, but overall, he liked the indulgent dish.

Two Eggs with Sausage, Multigrain Toast and Hashbrowns

Sourdough French Toast Stuffed with Canadian Bacon and Smoked Cheddar

Though Mack said he preferred Galaxie (our counter/courtside seat to the flattop stage didn’t hurt), he liked Diner Deluxe as well. In the end, perhaps it’s a good thing we don’t have as many brunch eateries in Edmonton – I wouldn’t have the travel excuse to fall back on as a reason to visit them all!

Diner Deluxe
804 Edmonton Trail NE, Calgary
(403) 276-5499

Comfort Food at its Best: Farm

Oh, Farm. I’ve wanted to go to Janice Beaton’s jewel of a restaurant for so long that I almost can’t believe it’s only a year old.

Beaton is a noted Calgary-based cheesemaker who ran a successful cheese and charcuterie shop in Kensington for year. She decided to close the shop recently to focus on Farm, and though I only have one experience to base it on, I’m excited to see Beaton take an already wonderfully-executed concept to the next level.

A twenty-minute trek on foot from our hotel brought us to the bustling interior of Farm, a tiny storefront that is very easily missed. We joined a small line of about eight individuals, and were told that our wait would be no longer than twenty minutes. As we inched closer to the front of the line, we were amazed that each new server we encountered stopped to greet us and ask if we had been taken care of already. This, coupled with the option to order wine to accompany our wait, were small but appreciated gestures of welcome that helped set the warm tone for the evening.

We surveyed the décor as we sipped our wine – people were packed into Farm like the best kind of restaurants, in a get-to-know-your-neighbour kind of way. To that effect, Farm even has a communal table lit with two funky chandeliers, and though we didn’t mind our Founding Farmers dinner with shared seating, we were happy to have been treated to a more intimate affair that night.

I loved their exposed kitchen (complete with counter seating), the colourful chalkboard on the back wall declaring their ever-changing specials, and the carpe diem quotation that met patrons upon entry: “The tragedy of life is not that it ends so soon, but that we wait so long to begin it.” It was a sign that we should make the most of our visit. And we would.

Mack at Farm

One of Farm’s celebrated menu features are their cheese and charcuterie offerings. Going beyond a baguette-pairing though, the kitchen also pairs each selection with a special accoutrement. We were both feeling pretty starved, so decided on five selections ($25), and leaned on our expert server for guidance. He added to our choice of 3 year old cheddar and Valbella prosciutto with recommendations of double-cream brie, and bunderfleisch and venison salami also from Valbella.

The platter was beautifully put together, with each of the meats artfully arranged into vertical towers. Our server explained each of the pairings, some of them which seemed offbeat at first encounter: pickles with the bunderfleisch, mustard with the salami. We felt a bit like Ratatouille’s Remy in the scene when he experiments with taste and flavour combinations, particularly when we found our favourite – aged cheddar with grape jelly. While it seems strange, the initial sweetness gave way to the salty burst of the cheese, a perfect pairing. The prosciutto was another favourite, though sans the olive accompaniment, at least for me. The bunderfleisch was new to both of us, but had a rich flavour and texture that stood up well against the sharpness of the cheddar.

Cheese and Charcuterie Platter

We were a bit afraid our entrees, ordered up front, would be delivered while we were still making our way through adult cheese and crackers. But we should have given more credit to the restaurant, which expertly timed everything, and we needn’t have worried.

Our stomachs were ready for Farm’s comfort-food mains, which, as Andree wrote about last week, are meant to be shared. The Spring Creek Ranch short rib ($18) was fall-apart tender, and melted in our mouths. The creamy celery root puree was lovely as well, a nice change from the usual potato mash. I just wish there had been more of it!

Spring Creek Ranch Short Rib with Celery Root Puree and Roasted Beets

Mack’s choice of spicy mac and cheese ($10 for a small) was a winner – the nutty, crunchy breadcrumb topping made the dish for me alone. The sauce was also of a perfect consistency – neither runny or too stiff, with the addition of spice a welcome twist (counterbalanced by the side of sweet pickles). The size of the dish was an indication of how rich it was, and though Mack probably wanted to eat two portions, we were glad to have the short rib to balance it out.

Janice’s Mac ‘n Cheese

Our server was excellent, and provided some of the best service that I have had in a while. He was personable, good humored, and knowledgeable. And it was his concession that ultimately pushed us to order from the dessert menu – he offered to warm the chocolate chip cookies (5 for $5) for us.

Imagine capping off your comforting meal with homemade cookies – it was a revelation. Paired with a cup of strong Fratello coffee (locally-roasted, of course), we couldn’t have been happier. Even if they weren’t the best cookies I ever had (I would have preferred them to be sweeter), the fact that they were warm, and available at a full-service restaurant, was the icing on our proverbial cake.

Chocolate Chip Cookies

Before we left, we took a moment to explore the small shop behind the restaurant that sells cheese, meats and condiments. Though we didn’t need a reason to come back, we’ll be sure to bring a cooler the next time we do. Oh, Farm. I can’t wait for my next visit.

Farm
1006 17 Ave SW
Calgary, AB T2T 0A5, Canada
(403) 245-2276

Retro Cool ‘Dogs: Le Chien Chaud

I had heard great things about Calgary’s “other” hot dog palace, Le Chien Chaud. Having visited the infamous Tubby Dog last year, we thought a comparison stop was necessary to complete our Cowtown hot dog tour.

With Wednesday supper being our own responsibility (the conference would be covering all other meals over the next day and a half), I thought that would be a good time to pop over to Le Chien Chaud. Arriving at 7:30, Mack and I just made it – the owners were tidying up when we entered, readying for their 8pm closing time.

It is evident that the restaurant is a labour of love for owners Bob and Jane Steckle, who actually run the shop themselves. As opposed to Tubby Dog, which is a dive (albeit an endearing one), Le Chien Chaud has a boutique feel, with artfully displayed artefacts, posters, and memorabilia relating to the phenomenon of hot dogs. The walls are bright red, and when contrasted with the black and white checkered floor, the retro feel of the establishment is unmistakable.

Interior

While some of the topping combinations went beyond the usual ketchup, mustard and onion family, Tubby Dog definitely offers more creativity and shock value with their wasabi and cereal-encrusted creations. For that reason, the menu at Le Chien Chaud reminded me very much of The Dawg Father, Edmonton’s premiere hot dog purveyor. Mack ended up choosing the breakfast dog ($5.75), dressed with cream cheese and chive scrambled eggs, cheddar and bacon bits. The Coney Island dog ($5.75) sounded best to me, drenched in a meat sauce. We both opted for the default pork/beef combination, though all beef, vegetarian, buffalo and bratwurst was also available.

We sat down, and before we knew it, our freshly prepared meal was set in front of us. Mack and I were both immediately disappointed that the cheese was not melted – a trip through the broiler would have made a world of difference, especially as a means of binding the toppings together. Although Mack enjoyed his hot dog (commenting that it was moist and flavourful), he would have preferred warmed bacon crisps, instead of the bacon bits that almost tasted artificial.

Breakfast Dog

I am almost always a messier eater than Mack, and in this case, the ladle of meat sauce on my Coney Island dog had me at a disadvantage from the start. However, it was worth the mess, as it added a rich and textured punch to an otherwise typical dog.

Coney Island Dog

Our high expectations had raised the bar for Le Chien Chaud, and while we enjoyed our experience, wouldn’t advise going out of your way to try it.

Le Chien Chaud
3, 2015 4 Street SW, Calgary
(403) 229-3641
Monday-Saturday 11am-8pm, Sunday 12-5pm

Solo Lunch: Holt’s Cafe

Sometimes I am forced to be timely with my restaurant reviews, particularly when new establishments open up. Other times, my good intentions never pan out, and reviews are pushed back in favour of different posts. My recap of a solo weekday lunch at Holt’s Café falls into this latter category.

In late summer, when the weather was more reasonable than it is now, my first choice of lunch at Fo Guang Tea House was dashed with the temple’s closure for a special event. I thought about my nearby options, and settled on Holt’s Cafe inside Holt Renfrew, which like Fo Guang, is essentially only open for lunch. I had been there once before several years ago, and though I found the meal satisfactory, haven’t been able to return because of their limited operating hours.

So book in hand, I settled down at my table and watched as the downtown lunch crowd trickled in after me. I should note that the waitress was particularly great – she was warm, and made conversation without ever overstepping her boundaries (for example, she saw that I was reading My Life in France and asked if I had seen the movie). At the end of my meal, when I requested more water, she brought me a  pretty wine glass filled with ice water – a nice touch.

The menu had changed since my last visit, featuring some more upscale fare (and changed again in October). Though the vegetable fritters sounded like an interesting appetizer, my waitress steered me away from them, stating that they were dry. So instead, I chose the truffle potato chips ($6). For my main, the spring pea and lemon risotto with mascarpone and shiitake mushrooms ($15) sounded like the comforting dish I was looking for.

The truffle potato chips were merely fried potato crisps drenched in oil and sprinkled with salt. Unfortunately, the simplicity didn’t mean perfect execution, and it was overdressed in every way – the potato was barely discernable underneath it all.

Truffle Potato Chips

Thankfully, the risotto fared much better. The rice was creamy, accented nicely by the mascarpone with additional texture from the crisp peas and silky mushrooms.

Lemon Risotto with Mascarpone and Shiitake Mushrooms

If you’re looking for a restaurant in the heart of downtown for a solo lunch, or for a quiet place to catch up with a friend, Holt’s Cafe is worth a try.

Holt’s Cafe (inside Holt Renfrew)
10180-101st Street NW
(780) 425-5300

Mmm Pumpkin Pie: Fife n’ Dekel

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

Like Sharon, fall is my favorite time of year. I love the brisk weather, the colorful leaves, and yes, seasonal treats! Perhaps my favorite is pumpkin pie. While driving in the west end this past weekend, Sharon and I stopped at Fife n’ Dekel to pickup a slice for me ($3.49). Sharon doesn’t like pumpkin pie, if you can believe it!

Pumpkin Pie

I opted to forego the whipped cream. I found the pie very tasty with great texture! Great pumpkin flavor. The crust was just right – not too soft, not too crunchy.

Pumpkin Pie

I had never been to Fife n’ Dekel before, but based on the pumpkin pie, I’ll be back!

Fife n’ Dekel
10646 170 Street (2 other locations)
(780) 489-6436
Monday-Friday 7am-4:30pm, Saturday 10:30am-3:00pm

Edmonton’s Newest Bakery: Duchess Bake Shop

Life is all about the little things. Watching the leaves fall from the trees in autumn. Drinking in the mid-afternoon sun. Savouring that first sip of morning coffee. Or, finding that a new bakery opened up in your neighbourhood.

Thanks to Nate Box (who will be opening his own restaurant, Elm Cafe, soon enough), I found out about Duchess Bake Shop, located in the High Street area within walking distance of Mack’s place, and right along my homeward bound bus route. I stopped in on Monday to check them out, and found that they had only been open a whirlwind three days.

Interior

The shop has a chic, sophisticated feel about it, with hardwood floors and a dominant white interior. A chandelier and a handful of tables and chairs round out the space, helpful for those looking to stay and pair their indulgence with something from the bakery’s cafe menu.

Owners Garner and Giselle Beggs have been thinking about opening a bakery for years. Fresh from a four year sojourn in Tokyo, they decided the time was ripe to return and make their dream a reality. Although Duchess offers many French-inspired treats (croissants, macarons, madelines), Garner says they aren’t restricting themselves to a French repertoire, with apple and banana cream pies also available, among other treats. Everything is made from scratch without preservatives – even the food colouring they use is from natural sources.

Macarons

I picked up two croissants ($1.50 each) for Mack and I to serve as a savoury bridge to dinner. They smelled of butter, and on first bite, had that crispy-crunchy texture I look for in a croissant. Mack didn’t like it as much (he prefers the softer variety), but I’d buy it again.

Croissants

Duchess also serves croissant sandwiches, which would make it an interesting destination for lunch. Or, like the couple who filed into the shop after me – for those looking for something to “make a bad day better”. I will be back.

Duchess Bake Shop
10720 124 Street
(780) 488-4999
Hours as of October 26, 2009: Wednesday 9am-6pm, Thursday-Friday 9am-8pm, Saturday 10am-6pm, Sunday 10am-5pm, closed Mondays and Tuesdays

Marathon Pho: Ninh Kieu

The ongoing chronicles of pho continued at Ninh Kieu, an establishment I have passed by countless times on my way into Chinatown, but never really noticed. The only reason it stood out at all was due to the fact that they had, at some point, put up a white vinyl sign which attracted my eye.

The restaurant is most notable because of their large windows, which enclose just about the entire dining area. As I am used to the shadowy corners of Pho Tau Bay, this was definitely a pleasant change. We could have done without the tinkering elevator music though, which although had the intention of providing a relaxing atmosphere, had the opposite affect.

Interior

As is standard, we split an order of green onion cakes ($4.75) to start, and opted for our usual benchmark bowls of pho – for me, the medium rare beef ($7.50) and for Dickson, the special beef noodle soup ($8.50).

Service was friendly and fairly efficient – we weren’t left waiting for our food. I would pass on the green onion cakes next time though – while crisp, the kitchen may have misplaced the salt while making the dish.

Green Onion Cakes

As I always order the smaller portions of pho when given the opportunity, I wasn’t ready for Ninh Kieu’s marathon version of pho. And it wasn’t just me – even Dickson had difficulty getting through the entire serving. However, quality is more important than quantity in the case of pho, and though we found the broth to be satisfactory, it didn’t make an indelible impression on us either.

Medium Rare Beef Pho

Special Beef Noodle Soup

Having the opportune location next to Pho Tau Bay, whose closure periods are hard to predict, I would consider returning to Ninh Kieu in a pinch. I would just have to prepare my appetite for a worthy opponent beforehand.

Ninh Kieu
10708 98 Street
(780) 429-8881
Sunday-Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm