Another Bacon: Skinny Legs and Cowgirls

May and I were late to the party. After most of the city’s food critics jumped to review Skinny Legs and Cowgirls (9008 Jasper Avenue) in the spring, we tried valiantly to secure reservations to this “sort of bistro”, but the timing was never right. On Tuesday, we finally made it.

Pulling into the parking lot just after five, we more than beat any rush the restaurant might have seen later that night. The dining room was tiny, a total of seven tables occupying the small space. The decor was undoubtedly charming, with a cozy, autumn-perfect color scheme of orange and red running up the walls, continued on the place settings, and in the Chinese lantern stem on each table. However, the room itself was virtually unlit and seemingly unheated, forcing us rely on the tabletop candle as not only the light, but the main heating source as well.

The menu reminded me very much of Bacon (which I visited in June, but have yet to post about) – organic, sparse, and without many dishes that appealed much to my personal taste. Our server explained that all of their plates were built to be shared. Their piece de resistance was the “mixed grill”, a platter with several different kinds of meat, including rack of lamb and striploin steak, but priced at a staggering $73, it was something we couldn’t stomach on that particular evening.

Instead, we ordered the Chorizo Plate (chorizo sausage sauteed with onions, tomato, cilantro and finished with red wine), and the Franco Pollo (chicken sauteed with spices, onions, tomato, lemon juice and finished with fresh cream). In hindsight, we should have also selected an accompanying carb of some kind, but as the prices of the polenta and rice plates equalled that of the chorizo and chicken items ($15!), we didn’t think we would get our money’s worth.

With a cool, unobtrusive Sirius Radio station on in the background, dim lighting, and an intimate setting, I could see how Skinny Legs and Cowgirls would make a good date venue. The service was all right, but erred on the side of giving us too much space.

Our food arrived on very stylish rectangular plates, coupled with serving utensils that allowed for easy sharing. Our favorite was the chorizo dish – the sweet tomatoes complemented the savoury sausage slices nicely. The Franco Pollo wasn’t bad, but with a thick orange sauce, I had trouble convincing my eyes that I wasn’t eating some variation of butter chicken.

While we didn’t have a bad experience, May and I agreed that Skinny Legs and Cowgirls wasn’t appealing enough to add to our short list of restaurants. Still, I wouldn’t mind giving their mixed grill a go some time in the future…just to see what haute meat really tastes like.

Exterior

Dining room

Choizo Plate

Franco Pollo

The Cooking Chronicles: Chocolate Brownies

Debating between a recipe of low-fat brownies by America’s Test Kitchen and a regular-fat one from Jamie Oliver, I selected the latter and began the prep work.

Besides the inconvenience of having to convert the measurements, it was a fairly straightforward recipe (and I must say I adore melting chocolate in a double boiler for some odd reason). I used semi-sweet baking chocolate squares instead of the recommended dark chocolate, but the final product turned out just as rich.

My goal with this recipe was to try to achieve the perfect chewy coating and gooey centre, but unlike with cookies, I wasn’t able to watch for batch browning to guide me. As well, because I ended up using an 8 x 8 pan instead of a 12 x 12 dish, I couldn’t rely on the recipe’s suggested baking time. Though I left the tray in oven ten minutes longer to compensate for its increased thickness, it turned out not to be enough. After cooling, I cut into the tray and discovered what was essentially a molten chocolate pudding underlying the crisp crust. Thankfully, after fifteen additional minutes in a reheated oven, the brownies came out edible and held their shape when cut.

Definitely fit only for those with a sweet tooth, the richness of these brownies are best experienced as a full-fledged dessert – warmed in the microwave slightly, then served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Yum.

Chocolate brownies (before reheating)

Poor Planning and Bad Timing: Sorrentino’s

I have mentioned Dine Alberta a few times this month, it being a September program that promotes the use of local ingredients at select restaurants across the province. I finally got around to arranging for dinner at Sorrentino’s, a much-loved local Italian chain that seems to be something of an institution in Edmonton (beyond Sorrentino’s proper, the purveyors also maintain That’s Aroma!, Oliveto Trattoria, Caffe Sorrentino, a sports bar, and a pub). I poked around the website and was looking forward to trying something off of their featured Mushroom Harvest menu – specifically, the porcini mushroom risotto.

With Dickson at the wheel (though that phrase is a bit redundant…), we headed for the downtown location. Count me embarrassed when we were confronted with a closed sign. Vowing better research before future outings, we checked to make sure the southside location was open before driving there.

Arriving around 8:30pm, we were given the “S-Bar” menu, a condensed selection of dishes meant for late diners. I inquired about the Mushroom Harvest menu, but to my disappointment, was told that it wasn’t offered on Sundays. The website failed me – nowhere on their otherwise comprehensive webpage was it written that the specials were only served Monday to Saturday. So not only were we deprived of sampling the regular fare (of which a chef’s daily risotto is a part of), but I also wasn’t able to get my Dine Alberta fix.

That said, the after-9 menu isn’t bad; there were quite a few comfort dishes that were tempting. I settled on a margherita pizza, while Dickson opted for Mamma’s lasagna. The food arrived after a bit of a wait (the main dining room had been fully booked for a private function), though Dickson would have been appeased had they simply brought more baskets of their salted baguette. The pizza wasn’t great, and tasted very much like the fare I had at Three Bananas Cafe, and easily loses up against the phenomenal slices at Leva. Dickson’s pasta was quite good, but he was left wanting more because of the small portion.

When the bill was presented, we were surprised to see we had been charged full price. Checking the time our plates were entered, we realized that had we waited twenty minutes to order, we could have saved $6. Sure, that isn’t a lot of cash, but after the mushroom menu mix-up, it was another instance of our bad timing that night.

I’ll have to return to Sorrentino’s for a full, triple fact-checked dinner to see if it really can live up to the hype.

Margherita pizza
Mamma’s Lasagna

Ripped Off and Ticked Off: Wok Box

After a valid but ultimately failed attempt at catching a play at the Arts Alive! Festival in the afternoon (there’s always next year), Mack and I killed time in the downtown core, and ended up at Wok Box (10119 Jasper Avenue) for dinner.

I’ve been to the franchised takeout restaurant twice before, and after finding the fare extremely overpriced, I vowed not to return unless equipped with a coupon. Luckily, I just purchased an Entertainment Book containing a Wok Box coupon, so with a 2-for-1 mentality in mind, we saddled up to the counter to order.

But rebuffed, we were. The employee mentioned something about the store not being consulted before the address was printed on the back of the coupon, and couldn’t accept it. Because we had a show to get to in less than an hour, Mack and I sucked it up and ordered the teriyaki chicken stir fry and butter chicken (Violet’s recommendation). The bill was over $21.

Thankfully, our wait wasn’t too long (unlike my other experiences), and though the novelty of eating out of a “Chinese” take-out box still tickles me somewhat, I recognize the inflated cost of fanciful packaging. In the end, my butter chicken was all right (the sauce was rich and tasted great with the rice), but without a side of vegetables, was a fairly dense meal, and was not worth what we paid for it.

Take-out boxes are cute, but cannot make-up for the restaurant’s small portions and mistaken advertising. I’d choose a Chinatown establishment over Wok Box any day.

Mack “smiles” with his Wok Box order
Teriyaki chicken, butter chicken and “naan bread” (looking pretty unappetizing)

Brunch as it Should Be: Blue Plate Diner

After a walk about the City Market downtown (where I was disappointed that both Inspired Market Gardens and Whimsical Cupcakes were absent this week), I treated my parents and Amanda to brunch at Blue Plate Diner (10145 104 Street).

I’ve posted before about dinner at Blue Plate, but brunch at the Diner is truly one of my favorite meals at the city. There’s just something about the combination of the brick, the buzz in the air and the charm of their retro furniture that I cannot resist.

I ordered the pancake breakfast (2 buttermilk pancakes, eggs, choice of meat side), while my sister opted for the mornin’ sandwich (fried egg, cheddar cheese and tomato with herbed mayo on toasted multi-grain and served with potatoes), and my parents selected the big breakfast (2 eggs, potatoes and multi-grain toast and choice of meat side).

The pancakes were great – moist and fluffy, they soaked up the maple syrup nicely, and as always, their potatoes were crispy and delicious. My Mum really liked the bread, which we found our later was brought in from French Meadow, the artisanal bakery a few streets down.

After brunch, we headed to deVine Wines on the corner of Jasper Avenue and 104th Street for a free wine sampling they were hosting that afternoon. Though I didn’t buy the red Chilean wine I tried, I did come away with a bottle of German Riesling wine, in the hopes that it would taste similar to one that I sampled in St. Goar this summer.

The City Market is open for its last hurrah this Saturday, and I highly recommend a morning of produce shopping followed by brunch at Blue Plate. You won’t regret it!

Pancake breakfast

Mornin’ sandwich

Big breakfast

Culinary Q & A with Eric

Occupation: Student

What did you eat today?

Breakfast: Erica’s peanut butter cookies.
Mid-morning snack: raisins and banana.
Lunch: Grilled chicken sandwich (made by Chef Moi).
Mid-afternoon snack: Bits and Bite (a treat!).
Pre-Capoeira bite: International fare from the “Study Abroad” session.
Dinner: Japanese udon.
Dessert: Pineapple and banana.

What do you never eat?

Lamb.

What is your personal specialty?

As in cooking?????!

What is your favorite kitchen item?

The French knife.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

A hearty duck confit, fruits of every kind from around the world, and a glass of fine red wine.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Very random now since I don’t eat out often.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

Jack’s Grill for ultimate food pampering, Sunterra’s pizza for delicious gourmet lunch on-the-go, and Bistro Praha for the ambience (sorry, I know it’s three).

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I would go to Romania and eat all the Elephant Ears I can!

Spicy and Pricey: Tropika

I finally made my way down to the south side Tropika (6004 104 Street) on Wednesday with Dickson, spurred on by a coupon I had on hand. I had heard that the food was good but pricey, so a discounted meal was a definite encouragement to try their version of Malaysian cuisine. pricey

As opposed to many Asian restaurants, the purveyors of Tropika attempted to cobble together an actual decor scheme. Unfortunately, the unfinished wood panelling on the ceiling reminded me more of the plywood Contiki village cabins than a “rustic” South Asian establishment.

Upon being seated, I showed the coupon I had clipped from a local flyer to our waitress, as the print on the slip indicated that it had to be surrendered before ordering. She asked if I had the rest of the flyer, but I did not, and even though the address and phone number of the restaurant was apparent, without the word “Tropika” on it, she was hesitant to accept it without asking her manager first. Though this wasn’t a major inconvenience (they accepted it in the end), it didn’t exactly start off our meal on the best note.

Service aside, I was extremely impressed with the full-color, coil-bound menus. The pictures were gorgeous (especially compared with the out-of-focus, yellowed photos on the menus at Kyoto), and for those who are not familiar with Malaysian dishes, provide a visual trial to encourage gastronomic experimentation. We opted for an order of Roti Canai (a thin, pan-fried bread) to start, and for the heart of the meal, Nasi Goreng (a type of fried rice), Sayur Lemak Hot Pot (a seafood curry) and Pad Thai.

We ended up with a lot more food than the two of us could eat, and really, most of it was too spicy for us to eat (at no fault of the chef). I was pleasantly surprised at the liberal amount of seafood that presented itself in each dish. The Nasi Goreng was my favorite by far, if not only because it was the mildest of the three, but the Roti was quite tasty as well, and worked well with the curry sauce from the hot pot. Service was spotty throughout the night (I wished for more water on more than one instance), but improved once the frugal waitress was replaced by another server.

Even with the coupon, the meal worked out to about $18 per person, still rather expensive for Asian food in general. But with leftovers that served me well for lunch the next day, I couldn’t complain much.

Menu!

Roti Canai

Nasi Goreng (a lot better than the photo makes the dish look)

Sayur Lemak

Pad Thai

Random Notes

  • Celebrate Dine Alberta by enjoying regional ingredients at 36 participating Edmonton eateries. I hope at some point the website will be able to provide more detail about the special menus at each restaurant.
  • Italians were encouraged to boycott pasta today to protest rising prices. I can’t imagine such a movement will get very far.
  • After some exposure to Jamie At Home, I now want to start referring to zucchini as courgettes and arugula as wild rocket.
  • There was a really fascinating article in last week’s See Magazine about a local group that organizes what is essentially hide-and-seek for adults. They set the boundaries, choose a “manhunter,” allow players 120 seconds to run, and then the game begins. Those who play fall into two categories: those who enjoy being chased, and those who hide for dear life.
  • Every Friday, the Life section of the Globe & Mail showcases unique home accessories and decor items. One piece they highlighted was a “welcome” mat that suits your mood. Two others I enjoyed from the same website were the Sun Jar (like capturing a firefly, but better), and dinner plates that can truly reveal what you think about a particular guest (as well as cheekily interpreting the idea of “good china” and “bad china”).

The Cooking Chronicles: Cheddar-Dill Scones

Using the fresh dill I bought at the City Centre Market over the weekend, and armed with a recipe out of The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook, I set out to make Ina’s Cheddar-Dill Scones on Monday.

Back in April, I had tried her similar recipe for Strawberry Scones, but I found the freeze-dried fruit a little on the bitter side. I thought the combination of cheddar and dill would likely work better, and I was not disappointed.

This was my first time cooking with dill, so it took me longer than it should have to get the leaves off of the stems. Also, as I prefer to bake without the assistance of a KitchenAid mixer, hand cutting in the butter and working in piles of cheese undoubtedly takes more time. But somehow, the process of baking feels more “involved” that way.

I was very happy with the finished product, and they really are best fresh out of the oven. The butter melts, gets into every crevice of the dough, and the texture is perfect – crunchy on the outside but soft and gooey on the inside. And though this version is better than the strawberry, both resulted in flaky, golden brown scones. So here’s to you, Ina.

Cheddar-Dill Scones

My Own Surreal Gourmet: Cooking with Judy Schultz

On a whim, I entered a contest last week sponsored by the Bistro section in the Edmonton Journal. The prize was a market fresh cooking class with Bistro editor Judy Schultz and Gail Hall, owner of Seasoned Solutions. For my submission, I wrote about my developing interest in the culinary workings of Edmonton alongside my own experiments in the kitchen, with documentation available on my blog. Much to my surprise (and excitement!), Judy called on Tuesday, opening with the line, “I couldn’t resist your Cooking Chronicles!” We were to meet on Saturday at 10am, in front of the Sunshine Organics kiosk at the City Centre Market.

Kuhlman’s kiosk (where I picked up some fresh dill)

I reached the kiosk at five minutes to ten, and began to wait. It was actually a bit unnerving, as all I had to go from was Judy’s column photo in the Journal, so I can best liken the feeling to the jitters of a blind date. By 10:15, I was really nervous, and thought back to the nightmare I had of having missed the group somehow. Luckily, I overheard a woman say something about needing to direct a “girl who will look lost,” and from there, I was off with the woman who turned out to be Judy.

The food columnist extraordinaire actually doesn’t look much like her stock picture at all. Lively, with a quick smile and warm manner, she informed me after introducing herself that they had started a little early. We crossed the street, and walking towards Jasper Avenue, met up with two men. The first was Tim, one of the other Shop, Cook, and Eat! winners, and the other was…Rick, a Journal photographer. Of course this excursion couldn’t go unrecorded – exposing local food to the masses is informative (and makes for good PR).

The four of us walked to the Greens, Eggs and Ham booth (the name is too cute) and I was introduced to Joan and Jeanine, my fellow winners, and Gail, who would be directing our cooking adventures that morning.

The entire experience – but in particular shopping at the market – was so surreal. It was as whirlwind as my recent tear through London with my cousins. While Gail knew exactly what ingredients she needed for the recipes we would be preparing, to my untrained eye, it was a tad maddening, running about the vendors picking up seemingly random things. And without cell phones or GPS trackers to fall back on, we weren’t able to wander away from the pack for fear of being left behind.

After a few shots with bell peppers from Doef’s Greenhouses, Gail led us back to her apartment in the Cobogo Lofts (10249 104 Street). It is a simply gorgeous space, full of character not only from the history apparent in the hardwood and brick, but in how clearly it reflects its two inhabitants. Photographs of Gail’s culinary excursions adorn the walls, and her ever-growing collection of bears are displayed on the shelves and cabinets. To me, it is a place that speaks to the idea of home.

The site of the Loft Cooking Class (don’t worry, I asked if it was all right for me to take pictures)

Though it was only eleven in the morning, I would quickly find out that no one else in the group would mind imbibing so early in the day. Judy made us each a cocktail, we stood for pictures (after which Rick had to leave for another assignment), and we got down to business.

On the menu:

Judy’s Mom’s Quick Bread topped with Caramelized Onions and Sour Cream
Market Salad with Honey Dressing
Frittata with Fresh Herbs and Sylvan Star Gouda served with Roasted Baby Potatoes and Vegetables
Plum Clafouti

And did I mention the wine? Lots of wine? I’m a known lightweight when it comes to drinking, so when the group polished off two bottles before 11:30, I knew I was in trouble.

The kitchen wasn’t particularly large, but the generous island in the middle allowed for fairly seamless group activity and interaction. Gail gently assigned various tasks, from mixing dry ingredients to frying onions to chopping herbs, and everyone felt like they were contributing to the meal. She mentioned that a growing part of Seasoned Solutions is catering to the business community – specifically, conducting cooking classes as a means of building team rapport. I think cooking as a group is an excellent way of fostering team skills; food has a magical ability of disarming people. The best part, however, is being able to reach a near-immediate result – the instant gratification of having something to eat.

As we put together the dishes, I did my best to make like a sponge and absorb. Kitchen tricks, equipment recommendations, names of Italian regions and obscure New Zealand vineyards were assaulting me every which way, and it was all I could do to try and keep up. If Saturday taught me anything, it was that I have a lot to learn. A few things that I did pick up: use aluminum trays and parchment for baking (and never Teflon); test the magnetism of a knife sharpener by seeing if a dress pin sticks; wrap fresh cheese in wax paper or cheesecloth soaked in vinegar (vs. saran) to keep the moisture out; and visit restaurant equipment suppliers (like Condon Barr) for discounted kitchen toys.

By 1:30, the dishes were ready to be plated to eat. Gail had set up the table with beautiful fall linens, and her husband John helped out by pouring (you guessed it) more wine. All of the dishes were great (and ones I will incorporate into my personal repertoire), but my favorite had to be the salad. The edible spicy flowers elevated what could have been a very bland plate of wild greens, and the honey dressing made with New Zealand white wine vinegar was deliciously sweet.

Washed greens and flowers (from Inspired Market Gardens)

Gail plates the salad while her husband John gives us a history lesson about the Cobogo Lofts

Table setting

Frittata with a side of roasted potatoes and vegetables (sweetened with birch syrup)

Had I been more prepared for what was to transpire, I would have given some thought to cooking questions I wanted answered. Still, it was great to be exposed to the idea of cooking with local ingredients, and to be introduced to some of Edmonton’s key players in the city’s culinary scene. I had no idea Judy spent three months of the year in New Zealand (she’s currently building a house there, and because her son is a pilot with NZ Airlines, she has an unlimited flight pass), or that a farm near Sylvan Lake produces award-winning cheese (Sylvan Star Cheese). In our folders to take home, Gail included a reference list she put together with essential suppliers and services in the city, a great resource for someone who is learning.

We didn’t finish until after 3, so it was quite a full morning of food, wine, and conversation. In all, it was a wonderful experience to be in the company of those who love food as much as I do.

Group photo (from left Joan, Judy, Tim, Gail, Jeanine, and me)

EDIT: Judy’s article about our experience was published in today’s Journal, complete with all of the recipes we tested!