Category: food

Food Notes for November 14, 2011

Edmonton finally gets its first snow (I’m not counting the bit that fell on Friday), and it was a pretty gorgeous snowfall to boot. On to this week’s food notes:

  • Not food related, but the snow is making me think about Christmas. Two great shopping opportunities this weekend – Handmade Mafia on November 19 at Orange Hall, and Make It, from November 17-20 at the Alberta Aviation Museum.
  • In the mood for chocolate? Then take advantage of the opportunity on November 19, 2011 from 1-5pm to sample a trio of chocolate flights at Kerstin’s Chocolates for just $5.
  • You can cook, but how are you with your partner in the kitchen? Chef Andrew Parker is hosting a couples cook-off for ten pairs on November 22, 2011.
  • Liane wrote about Smoky Valley Goat Cheese having changed hands. Glad to hear that Holly Gale is staying on to mentor the new owners to ensure a more seamless transition.
  • Liane also posted that the Taste of Ukraine has reopened in St. Albert (#40, 516 St. Albert Trail).
  • Lillian reviewed Mirabelle Macarons. Though several small macaron-oriented businesses have popped up over the year, they still haven’t become “mainstream”. What will it take?
  • It was nice to read about the Tea and Coffee Company last week – I have seen their coffee on the shelves at the Italian Bakery, but didn’t really know much about them at all.
  • I failed to link to this earlier – Yvonne discovered a McCafe in Commerce Place (on the second floor, in a renovated kiosk next to the existing McDonald’s). I’d be interested to put their espresso-based drinks up against Tim Horton’s new line of coffees.
  • Speaking of Tim Horton’s – their storefronts will be going the white collar way of Starbucks too. Expect softer lighting, wi-fi, and new menu additions. What say you?
  • I wasn’t able to make it out to the Chili Cook-off this year, so was happy Karlynn shared photos of the event.
  • Great piece in Vue Weekly about the development of the local food scene, featuring interviews with Blair Lebsack and Kevin Kossowan.
  • A similar article in the November issue of TechLife (NAIT’s monthly publication) on Blair’s quest to make local food mainstream in Alberta. I love this quote from instructor Hong Chew: “‘When we put a certain product on the menu, there has to be a story behind the product. That’s how you educate the consumer about where the food comes from.’”
  • This is the outcome of an economic downturn: a rap about “going dutch”.

The Cooking Chronicles: Italian-Inspired Comforts

I’m certain that with the simplifications made to recipes these days to help the beleaguered home cook, some of the authenticity could be lost. But for the most part, I don’t mind – so long as the dish still tastes good. Two recipes I tried recently were a good illustration of this truth, at both ends of the spectrum.

Ricotta Gnudi in Parmesan Broth

I’ve posted about many Giada de Laurentiis recipes before, and I will continue to do so. Part of that reason is because I have two of her cookbooks, but the other has to do with the fact that her recipes are accessible and straightforward. Her ricotta gnudi in parmesan broth is an example of this, especially because they worked out so much better than a very similar spinach and ricotta dumplings I made a few months back.

While the chicken stock simmered with parmesan, a bit of parmesan rind and pepper, I formed the gnudi. I probably ended up making them a little larger than she had originally intended, but they held together and cooked up nicely.

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Forming the gnudi

I was worried that they wouldn’t end up at all light and moist, but they turned out pretty tasty, even if they weren’t picture perfect. Served with the spicy, concentrated broth, it was comforting and something I would make again – for us, or for company.

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Ricotta gnudi in parmesan broth

Bolognese with Bacon & Stout

Mack and I had just been talking about bolognese when I flipped open the fall issue of Flavours magazine to a recipe for bolognese with bacon & stout. It seemed like fate.

Besides Guinness, which we don’t normally have on hand, the rest of the ingredients for the sauce were basic – ground beef from Nature’s Green Acres, bacon from Irvings, rosemary and onions from Kuhlmann’s and parsnips, celery and crushed tomatoes. It wasn’t the smartest recipe for a weeknight (between prep and cooking time, the sauce took over an hour and a half), but it would have been worth it if we enjoyed the final product.

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Bolognese with bacon & stout

Mack disagrees with me on this, but the parsnips were off-putting, so sweet and almost candy-like in the sauce. Carrots would have worked so much better. The stout also didn’t give the sauce the depth that we thought it might; there is a good reason why tradition calls for red wine.

I don’t mind trying new recipes – but of course, I always hope for an outcome similar to the one we achieved with the ricotta gnudi. Better luck next time!

Restaurant Relaunch: Harvest Room at the Hotel MacDonald

On October 17, 2011, the Harvest Room at the Hotel MacDonald reopened after a nine-month hiatus. The space had to be meticulously repaired after extensive water damage to the ceiling, but the closure also meant that Executive Chef Andrew Ihasz had ample time and space to revamp the menu and locate local producers to source certain items. Mack and I were fortunate enough to have been invited to a media dinner two weeks ago to help celebrate the relaunch.

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Place setting

It was obvious that all of the staff were proud of their restaurant, but what surprised me the most was the serving length of the wait staff. A majority had worked at the hotel for over a decade; that kind of dedication and loyalty seems rare in the hospitality industry.

It’s always a privilege to be asked to attend such an event, especially because the chefs are usually on hand to introduce each of the dishes. I relish the opportunity to listen to chefs describe the genesis behind combining certain ingredients, or the inspiration behind a particular dish. Although Chef Ihasz did mention his affinity for crab (given his last Fairmont posting was in San Francisco), I found that the storytelling was lacking that night.

That said, the food was solid. Well-prepared, fit for the season, and items like lobster and crab notwithstanding, skewed towards local. We also appreciated that the producers’ names were highlighted on the menu.

The Sunworks Farm chicken & cognac parfait was not a dish I would have been likely to order on my own, but I was happy to have tried it – so smooth, each bite spread on the toasted brioche topped with the sweet berry chutney and crisp microgreens was perfect. This dish featured Mack’s favourite wine pairing, a Chateau de Sancerre.

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Chicken & cognac parfait

I could see the Dungeness crab salad becoming a favourite on the menu – beautifully plated in a layered fashion showcasing the avocado, oven-roasted tomatoes and frisee, it was surprisingly light. Lemon was prominent (even with a bit of preserved peel on top) and I relished the variety of textures throughout.

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Dungeness crab salad

I’m a sucker for dishes that serve an ingredient in more than one way, so I knew I would be biased towards the roasted Innisfail lamb rack. The lamb had been cooked to a succulent, tender rare, and the crispy lamb shank and basil cannelloni was a nice starchy counterpoint. Of note – the eggplant and mint tian was cooked well, worth mentioning given eggplant is a vegetable often overdone.

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Lamb rack and crispy lamb shank and basil cannelloni

Mack’s Sunworks Farm chicken roulade was quite generous. As a whole, it’s always interesting to see the interpretation of the chicken main on the menu, given it is typically the “go-to” for fussy diners. Chef Ihasz’s version incorporated a moist sage stuffing, and an underbelly of lentils which Mack quite enjoyed.

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Chicken roulade

Harvest Room

Lobster ravioli (the third alternating entree)

I was keeping my fingers crossed that my alternating dessert would end up being the delice of chocolate, and my wish came true (it felt a little like getting to sample several desserts on the same plate). Funny enough, what I liked most on the plate was actually the peanut butter ice cream, creamy and full of flavour. If they sold it curbside, I’d line up! The chocolate coulant (a molten cake) was wonderfully consistent, albeit rich, and was my favourite of the chocolate trio which also included a mousse and brownie.

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Delice of chocolate

Mack’s pot de crème of Fairmont Earl Grey tea and orange was comforting, though the star of his dessert was also an unlikely candidate – the accompanying lavender shortbread cookies.

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Pot de crème

I do hope people rediscover the Harvest Room now that it is open for business again. It is an institution in Edmonton, and for good reason. Their attention to detail that night meant that nothing was overlooked; service was flawless. Thanks again to the staff of the Harvest Room and the Hotel MacDonald for their generosity and hospitality.

Harvest Room at the Fairmont Hotel MacDonald
10065 100 Street
780-424-5181

Food Notes for November 7, 2011

Anyone else excited for the Christmas season? I know Mack won’t let me start decking the halls until after American Thanksgiving, but given the holiday lights have been up all over downtown, I can’t help but start looking forward to all of the lovely things that come with the season. On to this week’s food notes:

  • Olde Time Fair on the Square is back (albeit a little later than most years) on Saturday, November 13, 2011 from 10am-3pm. Expect carnival games, horse and wagon rides and food vendors! We checked out the festivities very briefly last year.
  • Cake Couture, the west-end cake and cupcake shop, has published a book, subtitled, “Modern Sugar-Craft for the Stylish Baker.” Join Annie Dam for the book launch at Century Grill on November 16, 2011.
  • Help Battista’s Calzones celebrate their first year in business on November 19, 2011.
  • NAIT is hosting a special dinner prepared by Julie van Rosendaal and Sue Duncan, authors of a new cookbook called Spilling the Beans. For $60, attendees will be provided with a 3-course dinner, and a copy of the book. Register prior to November 14 if you are interested.
  • It’s cookbook news galore, as Highlands Kitchen also announced that they are preparing a book, to be ready in 2012. A related note – they will be “posting a call for extras (diners) for filing January 10th & 11th via twitter and facebook” for their appearance on Food Network’s You Gotta Eat Here. Keep your eyes peeled!
  • Can’t wait to celebrate American Thanksgiving? The High Level Diner will be serving up a turkey dinner perfect for ex-pats, or turkey fiends on November 24, 2011.
  • Hopefully, the wait is over: Bubba’s tweeted that he will be open the week of November 8.
  • Fat Franks must be doing well at the University of Alberta campus! They just opened a second kiosk at Lister Hall.
  • Congratulations to Packrat Louie, Guru and Café de Ville for winning gold, silver and bronze, respectively, at the Gold Medal Plates last week. The dishes, as usual, looked stunning. My only wonder is why the awards aren’t more visible to the typical diner. Given they have a cross-Canada reach, one would think the program could develop into a Michelin- or Zagat-style rating, especially with the amount of effort chefs and restaurants undergo to participate. Though I know the primary purpose of the awards is a fundraiser for Olympic and Paralympics athletes and not as a culinary showcase, it’s a pity the winners of the competition aren’t more revered in Canada.
  • Twyla reviewed Noorish, which is apparently leading the trend of serving up a side of yoga with your lunch.
  • I had no idea Oranj, the new sushi bar on Bourbon Street at West Edmonton Mall, was a part of the Albert’s chain. The Journal reviewed it last week.
  • If you haven’t already, Kevin’s post on seasonal eating (or as he calls it, “a forced abstinence”), is worth a read.
  • I missed this last week: Toronto joins Mississauga, Brantford and Oakville as municipalities that have banned the sale of shark fin. The bylaw, effective September 1, 2012, bans the sale, possession and consumption of shark fin and carries fines of up to $100,000.
  • Mack is pretty excited about the possibilities of Square, a “virtual card case” that will enable patrons to pay up without ever touching your phone or wallet.
  • How low will we go: now that the word “artisan” has been co-opted by Burger King, will it ever have the same meaning again? Grub Street tracks the word’s demise.
  • Duchess opened on Thursday in their new space. It looks great, with lots more seating. Apparently, it has been non-stop busy since that day! Mack and I stopped in on Saturday to check it out.

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The new Duchess

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We couldn’t resist picking up an exquisite passionfruit tart

  • I’ve written in the past of our enjoyment of unusual potato chip flavours. So of course we couldn’t pass up a bag of Lay’s India’s Magic Masala flavour that we came across at the Spice Centre in Little India. It was definitely spicier than most North American-produced Lays, and the thicker ripple-cut was reminiscent of Ruffles.

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India’s Magic Masala

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Mack’s favourite egg nog latte and my seasonal choice, the gingerbread latte

Have a good week!

Five Restaurants I’d Like to See Inside Edmonton’s New Downtown Arena

In all the talk about the arena – the financing, the design – I find that something has been lost. What about the food?!

Sure, I realize the deal still hasn’t been finalized (both the City and the Katz Group can still pull the plug at this point, to say nothing of the still missing $100 million), but given how the arena has been touted as a showpiece not only for downtown, but for Edmonton as a whole, we cannot overlook the food that hungry hockey fans and concert-goers will be served.

I’d like to say up front that I have no knowledge of the Katz Group’s food service plans for the arena; this post is merely a wish list of considerations. As well, although I recognize that if all goes well, restaurants and bars will spring up and flourish around the arena, I’d like to focus on the concessions inside the arena itself.

Citi Field (home of the New York Mets) opened earlier this year, and turned ballpark food on its head. Forget about hot dogs and peanuts – how about a burger from the veritable Manhattan summer staple Shake Shack? Or a lobster roll, crafted by none other than Dave Pasternack, one of New York’s best seafood chefs? Citi Field is by no means unique – it follows a trend of elevating concession offerings that has happened in ballparks all over America in the past few years.

But it’s not just ballparks that are reinventing stadium menus – hockey arenas are getting into the game as well. For example, Madison Square Garden’s Transformation will see several top chefs move in this December, including Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Andrew Carmellini.

I think it would be great to see a similar model for the concessions in our new arena – branded vendors that will elevate expectations of pre-game and game-time meals. While Edmonton may not have such high-profile chefs as they do in New York, I think it is important for the new arena to focus on local businesses instead of on chains. If the arena is supposed to be the jewel in the city’s crown, shouldn’t we embrace it as an opportunity to promote the best of what Edmonton has to offer? Raise awareness of what is uniquely ours?

Although some local restaurants would certainly have to work through issues of volume, as well as having to tweak menus to accommodate the quick-serve concession mantra, I am optimistic that it can be done! So – here are some restaurants that I’d love to see included in the arena, in one form or another:

  • Delux – one of Edmonton’s most prolific restaurant companies, Century Hospitality Group operates several different brands, including the upscale-casual lounge Hundred (frequented by many an Oiler), posh steakhouse Lux (of which Captain Canada Ryan Smyth is a part-owner), and family-friendly Delux. I think the Delux concept of creative but consistent takes on burgers and fries would be a perfect fit for the new arena, offering a twist on a game staple.
  • Famoso – this is a made-in-Edmonton success story. Dishing out Neapolitan-style pizzas, fired up in a 900 degree oven, franchises have been proliferating across Western Canada, with five branches set to open up in BC in 2012. Made to order with fresh ingredients, Famoso offers enough variety to satisfy even the pickiest patrons, but also puts together inventive combinations for more adventurous eaters.
  • Fat Franks – ubiquitous, this Edmonton institution can be found at each major street corner downtown and every festival in the city. But there’s a reason they’re swarmed wherever they go – their ‘dogs are top quality, consistently prepared and served fast. And, with their large condiment selection, diners can make a ‘dog their own! I’d love to see Fat Franks start offering more “limited edition” creations though, similar to their inspired Andy Dog this spring.
  • The Lingnan – at sixty two years and counting, The Lingnan is Edmonton’s oldest still-operating Chinese restaurant. It sits just northwest of the proposed arena site, with a marquee that recalls the glory days of Chinese food on the prairies. The Quons also run the wildly successful Chicken for Lunch in Scotia Place, with line-ups that stretch fifty deep by noon. Can you imagine getting your fill of Amy’s hot and dry chicken at the arena? Moreover, the family are already ambassadors of Edmonton, currently starring in The Quon Dynasty, their second reality series on television, which airs not only across Canada, but around the world.
  • Tres CarnalesTres Carnales – given the drink of choice at the arena will remain, forever and always, beer, is there a more harmonious pairing than beer and tacos? I can see it now – a taco bar on the concourse! But with Tres Carnales in the kitchen, not only will the tacos be delicious, they will be authentic, too. And if this outlet were to capture even some of the spirit and gregarious nature of its Rice Howard Way location, fans will have a good time, regardless of what the score is.

What restaurants would you like to see set up shop in the new arena?

The Cooking Chronicles: Well-Rounded Meals

I’ve mentioned in the past my penchant for one-pot meals, but over the summer, we tried to deviate from our usual formula with suppers made up of several different components.

Roast Chicken, Green Beans with Bacon and Mushroom Pilaf

I don’t know why the idea of roasting a chicken seemed so intimidating to me. Granted, it’s not something my Mum did often when I was growing up, but that’s no excuse. Over the summer, Mack and I bit the bullet: we bought a whole chicken from Dreamin’ Green Farm and just did it.

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Whole chicken from Dreamin’ Green (home of the happy chicken!)

We rubbed the chicken with a mixture of butter, sage from a coworker’s garden, and lemon. We didn’t truss the chicken (something we’d definitely try next time), but it still turned out fine, and was really not a big deal at all! Like most roasts, it ended up being quite a passive recipe, something thrown into the oven to be forgotten about. The skin crisped up nicely (thank you, butter!), and the meat was deliciously juicy. We had enough leftovers for days – shredded meat we seamlessly incorporated into salads and soups. It is something we will definitely make again.

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Crispy chicken!

For the sides I made a salad consisting of Sundog Organic green beans, Irvings bacon and a honey vinaigrette – Marilyn had made this side for dinner when we visited a few months ago, and the recipe stayed with me. The mushroom pilaf was easy to throw together, combining leftover rice with MoNa mushrooms and some chicken stock.

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Roast chicken with green beans and mushroom pilaf

Of course, it tasted even better eaten outside.

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Patio nights

Beef Tenderloin, Curried Couscous Salad and Grilled Corn

We had picked up some beef tenderloin steaks from Nature’s Green Acres. They were smaller in size than what one would normally think of for a “steak dinner”, but for us, it was perfect – the last time we had steaks (also from Nature’s Green Acres), we could barely finish the meat, let alone any accompanying sides!

While Mack readied the barbecue, I put together a curried couscous salad, featuring roasted Riverbend Gardens cauliflower, cucumber from Doef’s, dried cranberries and a dressing made from Bles-Wold yogurt. It was actually surprisingly tasty, with just enough heat balanced nicely with fresh vegetables, the sweetness of the fruit and a variety of textures. I replicated this dish for a potluck at work in the fall (made with vegetable stock so the vegetarians could enjoy it as well) and it was a hit!

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Beef tenderloin, curried couscous salad and grilled corn

We also roasted corn (also from Riverbend Gardens) for the first time. Bobby Flay’s instructions (minus the flavourings) seemed simple enough, but possibly due to an inconsistent barbecue temperature, the corn didn’t cook through. We’ll have to try roasting corn again next year when it returns to the market.

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Grilled corn

Although these well-rounded meals were a nice change, I will admit it is not something I am likely to do often; we’re not cut out for the “extra” dishes and effort on a nightly basis!

Culinary Q & A with Phil Wilson (aka Baconhound)

PhilOccupation: Professional Gasfitter/ semi-professional man of leisure.

What did you eat today?

A couple slices of toast w/ peanut butter for breakfast (and a couple Doritos… don’t judge me).  Cauliflower soup with a whole wheat roll for lunch (uh, and a couple Doritos… don’t judge me). Caramelized chicken w/ soya sauce and honey, steamed carrots, roasted beets, and roasted smashed potatoes cakes (and a few chocolate covered marshmallows… ah, go ahead and judge all you want).

What do you never eat?

Wallpaper paste. Gave it up when I was 4 years old. Tastes remarkably like Poi. Which I would never eat. Oh, and liver. Can’t even stand the smell of that stuff.

What is your personal specialty?

Not sure I have what you would call a specialty, but I make a mean braised beef, killer mashed potatoes with sweet potatoes and cream cheese, and a kick-ass homemade Bailey’s.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

My nose. I just can’t stay out of there. It’s where I keep my beer, and cheese. (which are always in my refrigerator also)

What is your weekday meal standby?

I’ve always got a couple balls of pizza dough in my freezer courtesy of my buddy Battista at Battista’s Calzone Company. Some cheese, maybe a few pine nuts, pesto, a bit of sausage if I’ve got it and pizza’s on the table in 20 minutes.

What is your favourite kitchen item?

I have 2 that I love. The first is a really good set of tongs. Sturdy and solid, they are like an old friend that never lets you down. The second? A great vegetable peeler. It makes a tedious chore much easier.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Easy. My mom’s Christmas Dinner. Partly because it would mean she was still with us to enjoy it,  and partly because turkey, roast potatoes, sausage stuffing, and gravy are awesome. Hmm, might actually need to have a duo of gravy because my wife Robyn’s mom made a pretty heart stopping gravy too.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Over the last few months I’d say Drift food truck for sure. They’ve got it all in one tidy, teal package for the summer. Great food, great people, and you can enjoy it all outside. Although The Next Act Pub has beer…. Hmmm.

Where’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

I’m tempted to say somewhere at the airport, because that would mean I was on my way somewhere for a holiday, but we all know airport food is terrible. So I’m going to say it depends what I’m in the mood for. For fine dining I love the Red Ox Inn. For a delicious, quick dinner and a lively atmosphere I’d say Tres Carnales. But I also love Battistas, Niche, Famoso, Matahari… how could I pick just one?

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I have dreams about attending Memphis in May, the annual National BBQ competition in Tennessee. So much BBQ! And good BBQ is something we really don’t have here.

Keep up with Phil at his blog, or on Twitter.

Food Notes for October 31, 2011

Ousia

Ousia

  • I dragged Mack to Southgate for some window shopping, and thought the least I could do was reward him with some poutine! It was a good excuse to try New York Fries’ other “gourmet” poutine, featuring short ribs and a red wine reduction. The beef was actually not that bad, and the gravy-like sauce tasted not much different than a typical poutine sauce. The carrots should have been strained out though – it was a little odd to encounter anything remotely healthy in the poutine, heh.

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Short rib poutine

  • I think the number of poutine pictures I’ve shared is only perhaps rivalled by the number of pho pictures I’ve shared. So here’s another one – from lunch at Pho Tau Bay on Tuesday.

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Pho with beef balls

  • Attending a conference at the Radisson Hotel last week, I noticed they featured sparkling water in the meeting and banquet rooms. Not necessarily a selling feature, but a nice touch – I wonder if this will become more common in hotels (and restaurants)?

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Sparkling water at the Radisson

  • Did you know the Queen of Tarts offers challah bread (now on Fridays). We picked up a loaf for French toast. Delicious!

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French toast

  • I hope you had a good Halloween! Mack and I didn’t end up doing much, except carve a very rudimentary jack o’ lantern. What can we say – it’s our first!

Jack!

Meet Jack (ignore the Christmas lights behind him)

Kitchen Takeover: Big City Sandwich

Even as the seasons are changing, enthusiasm for food trucks in Edmonton continues. Interestingly enough, the truck that is propelling that momentum into autumn isn’t really a truck at all!

Well, at least not yet. Chris Delaney, owner of Big City Sandwich, will be launching his truck in May 2012. Until then, to help generate some income (and excitement!), he will be taking over kitchens all over town so diners can start getting to know his food (it’s so great that restaurants are open to this concept – it sounds like the arrangement is that the establishment earns the liquor revenue while Chris takes home the food balance). Last month, Chris served a Cuban braised pork sandwich at The Bend Lounge. On Sunday, he was banging out eats at Packrat Louie – Mack and I had to check it out.

Big City Sandwich

Packrat Louie (with small Big City Sandwich signs in the window)

We arrived just after 5pm to a half-full dining room. In hindsight, getting there early was the best decision we could have made; the lobby was soon buzzing with diners waiting for tables – I don’t think I’ve ever seen Packrat Louie so busy!

Instead of the usual silverware, linens and wine glasses, the place settings were made up of a disposable fork and napkin, a reminder of the casual nature of the meal we were about to have.

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Place setting

On the menu that night: a smoked beef brisket sandwich with bacon jam ($8), although there was also a vegetarian option. Mack and I both upgraded to a combo ($12) so we were able to select two of the three available sides: Big City beans, slaw or fries (we chose the latter two).

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Menu

Our orders arrived in biodegradable boxes. The sandwich was topped with a cheesy jalapeno popper which was so tasty (and perfect for someone like me who can’t handle heat). The brisket itself was wonderfully tender, and Mack and I both agreed that the smoky-sweet bacon jam helped elevate the sandwich. The fried onion straws were also a great crunchy addition. That said, the weak link for me was the bread – it was a little too big, and a touch dry.

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Beef brisket sandwich

The kitchen was extremely generous with the serving sizes of the sides. The fries had been tossed with some seasoning, but as far as we were concerned, nothing else besides the chipotle mayo was needed. We’re not sure if it is Chris’s signature dipping sauce, but it could definitely become his equivalent of Drift’s house tomato sauce. Not surprisingly, I enjoyed the slaw more than Mack did – I loved the light but creamy dressing, and the unique inclusions of both bell peppers and cilantro in the mix.

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A combo box

They were also offering a dessert – pumpkin ginger whoopie pies ($3) from Bluebird Cakes. Mack and I shared one, and found that the dominant flavour was definitely ginger. The cake itself had a good texture though, soft and doughy.

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Pumpkin ginger whoopie pie

Based on the response that night, I can’t imagine the line-ups the truck will have when it debuts next year. But until then, according to Liane’s article, Big City Sandwich will be taking over another kitchen near you on November 27. Make sure to get there early!

Supper Club Style: A Dinner at the Queen of Tarts

On Saturday night, Mack and I joined a dozen others at the Queen of Tarts who had snagged a reservation to their first ever dinner. A $45 prix fixe meal, this special event was a way for the cafe to ease into evening service. Although proprietor Linda Kearney has said that she would like to be open for supper more, they are still trying to stabilize the bakery side of things, and are in need of a sous chef (e-mail Linda if you’re interested!).

At any rate, these dinners will feature guest chefs in the kitchen for the time being, which will provide up-and-coming talent the opportunity to showcase their philosophy and skills. The chef on Saturday was Vikram Redganokar, who works with Shane Chartrand at L2. His meal highlighted several local suppliers (nearly all of whom were clearly identified on the menu, something we were happy to see).

It’s worth noting that the Queen of Tarts after dark is much different than the same venue during the day. Unlike its bright, bustling self, with the dimmed lights and jazz streaming through the sound system, the dining area transformed into an intimate bistro. Plus, because we were among such a small number of parties, it almost felt like we were part of an underground supper club, the best kept secret in the city.

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Mack, all dressed up!

The meal started with arguably the best bread basket available in Edmonton – how many restaurants can boast house-made bread? Although the crust of the epi didn’t fare well with reheating, it was more than made up by the warm gougères. These little cheese puffs tasted like buttery pockets of air. Thankfully, these pastries are available for purchase in the bakery on Fridays and Saturdays as well – so I know we’ll be coming by soon for another taste.

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Bread basket

The soup precluded the amuse that night, and couldn’t have set the bar higher. The roasted organic butternut squash soup had the luxuriously silky texture of a finely sieved mixture, with an underlying hint of sage and a drizzle of Mighty Trio hemp oil. The only downside was that we wished for a larger serving!

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Roasted butternut squash soup

An amuse of organic golden beets, and Icelandic rye (featuring Gold Forest Grains rye) followed. Instead of the tiny bowl and fork supplied, this would have worked better served in a Chinese soup spoon (porcelain, of course, to match all of the other dinnerware). Mack, ever the beet fan, loved it, right down to the crisp rocket finish.

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Golden beet amuse bouche

Neither of us expected such a generous entree portion. Between the braised Medicine Man Bison short ribs bourguignon, the Sundog Organics root vegetable pavé and the caramelized fennel, I had trouble finishing my plate! The ribs shredded easily with a fork and knife, but I was looking for a sauce that would tie the entire plate together (perhaps incorporating fennel somehow?).

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Short ribs bourguignon

Dessert was the only course that Linda herself took care of, a BC apple tart tatin. The pastry, no surprise, was exquisite, baked to a flaky, golden perfection. Topped with a fig jam, hazlenuts and crème fraiche made with Johnson Family Farm cream, it was a sweet end to an even sweeter meal.

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BC apple tart tatin

Expect the next Queen of Tarts dinner some time in November. Linda isn’t sure who the guest chef will be yet, but she knows she will be stepping into the kitchen some time in the future to create a menu herself. I’m sure it will be worth checking out!

Queen of Tarts Bakery & Bistro
10129 104 Street
(780) 421-4410