Culinary Q & A with Jennifer Cockrall-King

Occupation: Food writer

What did you eat today?

Apart from chocolate, you mean? While I do derive a significant amount of my daily caloric intake thanks to the stash of dark chocolate in my kitchen, today was a good food day. Breakfast was some peanut buttered toast with  tea. I’m not very motivated in the morning. But my husband and I had rack of lamb for lunch (!! I know) that we seared off in a frying pan and then plastered with a mash of chopped parsely, garlic, black olive tapenade, lemon zest and olive oil. We put the pan into the oven and let it cook some more until it was about medium. I don’t like rare lamb. We had a parsley salad with capers, thin onion slices, lemon juice and olive oil. (That’s a Nigella recipe from one of her shows and we simply call it “Nigella Salad” in our house.) We kind of eat big lunches in our house. Dinner was just soup because we were running out the door to see the Olympic torch relay.

What do you never eat?

I don’t think of myself as a picky eater, but neither am I a fearless omnivore. I don’t really like steak tartare. I detest liver. I’m not fond of foie gras, but I will eat it if it arrives on a plate and I’m at a dinner party. No brain, ever. No kidneys, heart, and other offal. I also don’t eat beef / beef products unless they are grassfed and grass-finished if possible. (I eat a lot of bison.) Oh, and I try really hard to not eat tuna, especially Blue Fin, and other absolute no-nos in the commercial fishing world. The fact that it tastes like heaven is not an argument to eat irresponsibly.  Most food I don’t eat are on a taste or texture ground, but I have a few items that I just don’t eat on moral or ecological grounds.

What is your personal specialty?

You can’t tell because this Q & A is not done in real time, but it is taking me a long time to answer. I guess I’m a generalist. I am better are savory dishes than sweet. I’m not a baker or a dessert-maker. I make a good French onion soup from scratch, because I’ll take hours to simmer and caramelize the onions. In the summer I make a really great roasted beet, fresh apricot and goat cheese salad with a shallot vinaigrette. It’s the best of summer all in one bowl.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

…half-full / half-empty jars of “impulse buys” like gourmet pestos, strange mustards, and pickled things and such. It’s a bit of a disaster because I have difficulty throwing stuff like that away, even if I don’t really like it as much as I thought I would when I bought it.

What is your weekday meal standby?

Caesar Salad with chicken. We make it from scratch so often that we usually just make a big jar of our homemade Caesar salad dressing and good quality Parmesan ready to roll. I’m pretty addicted to salads of all kinds because they are easy and I’ll use up little bits of leftovers — quinoa, green beans, steak, cheese — in my “salads.” They’re not just a few delicate leaves artfully arranged on a plate! Basically salads in our house may or may not contain leaves, but almost always contain cold leftovers.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

A wine-bottle opener for obvious reasons. After that, a good, sharp, heavy cleaver. It’s really satisfying to split a squash in half  in just one whack.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Well, if the world really is coming to an end, then Blue Fin Tuna it is!!! (Under those circumstances, I’m sure it would be OK.) My last meal — on the eve of global collapse — would involve several bottles of good (French) Champagne, a raw oyster buffet, pan-fried baby eggplant and baby artichokes with Maldon sea salt, Poplar Grove Bench Blue cheese, tree-ripe Okanagan peaches, plums, cherries, …

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Somewhere within walking distance of our condo. We’re lucky, we’re close to the new Skinny Legs and Cowgirls, Matahari, Famoso Pizzeria, La Shish-Taouk, Cafe de Ville and such. Further afield I like to try new places and I definitely prefer smaller places or independents like Culina, Wild Tangerine, Blue Pear (though it’s been waaayyy too long since I’ve been there) and many of the other “Original Fare” restaurants. The food is better, the atmosphere is better and the money goes into the pockets of other Edmontonians. That’s very important to me. Having worked at Hardware Grill for almost three years, the place is like going home.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

That’s totally impossible…and I’ll get in trouble if I name just one.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I would love to go to Turkey, Morocco, and southern Spain (are you listening, travel and PR companies???). Ha. No those are my dream culinary vacations and I would eat everything in my path while there. Except for brains and such (see above list of my ‘Don’t Eat” foods..) I was meant to live on or near to the Equator.

The Olympic Torch Comes to Edmonton!

Now that I can feel all ten of my toes again, I can finally begin to recount the wonderful night that was the Olympic Torch relay stop in Edmonton.

Though there were activities all along the relay route, including stops in Old Strathcona and at the Legislature, I joined in on the festivities in progress at City Hall. I arrived just in time to see a short comedic piece about the origins of the torch by Teatro la Quindicina, and to listen to a spirited rendition of The Olympic Theme by the Edmonton Symphony Orchestra.

City Room festivities

Athletes that had competed in the Olympics and Paralympics were recognized, and with that, the crowd dispersed into a rapidly filling Churchill Square.

May and me

The relay path to the stage

The crowd was treated to entertainment that included local group Asani, but for the most part, the stage presence came from seasoned relay stopover performers. The RBC MC earned my admiration as the most energetic of the bunch, and was able to elicit quite the noise from the crowd, while the Coke acrobats stole the show with their flexibility and fluid movements. While the “you’re the best crowd we’ve seen so far” statements rang hollow, I appreciated how well rehearsed and theatrical the entire show was.

The stage

As we danced in place in a futile effort to keep warm, I couldn’t help but marvel at how cool it was to be among the pulsing crowd, alongside hundreds of other Edmontonians about to witness our leg of the Olympic journey. The excitement was palpable.

The crowd

The moment we’d all been waiting for arrived in a flurry of camera flashes – I could barely see torch carrier Dorren Ryan as she made her way to the stage, and was thankful for the footlong flame to guide my eye and camera lens.

The torch arrives!

Up on stage, she lit the celebratory caldron, and the crowd erupted in cheers.

Caldron lit!

Though I think more entertainment followed the climactic moment, we decided to book it in favour of heat. I’m really happy to have been a part of the evening though – bravo to the organizers, and to my fellow Edmontonians who came out for the event!

You can read Mack’s post (with video!) about the ceremony here. Bruce from Moments in Digital also had some nice photos to share.

Unwind with Wine: Moriarty’s Bistro & Wine Bar

I’m very happy to see that Edmonton is finally getting its wine bar groove on. Moriarty’s Bistro & Wine Bar and LIT Wine Bar (on Jasper Avenue and 104 Street) are joining the fray that already includes Bibo and TZiN. While LIT is still in the works, Moriarty’s opened at the end of December, and after the Winter Light gala at City Hall last week, Mack and I popped over to check it out.

Moriarty’s Bistro & Wine Bar

Moriarty’s is the third business in two years to occupy the space that used to house Ching’s Asian Dim Bar and Mimi’s (10162 100A Street), right across the street from Hundred. I hope the space isn’t cursed, because I do think downtown could use another place for a glass of wine, and Moriarty’s, at least from our first visit, is a great addition to the core.

Wine

Moriarty’s is owned by the same people who run Sherlock Holmes and the Rose & Crown, but you wouldn’t know it from the interior. The black and white colour scheme is sleek and elegant, with one wall lined with cozy white leather banquets (where we chose to sit). The plastic black chairs that made up the bulk of seating options didn’t look too comfortable, but they were aesthetically pleasing. I loved the oversized light fixtures, and large black mirrors on the walls.

Interior

Moriarty’s is the fourth establishment in Edmonton to install and utilize an Enomatic wine system (Vinomania, The Bothy and Hardware Grill are the others). The system allows wine to stay fresher longer, meaning wines served by the glass can be preserved for a longer period of time. We both selected a glass of wine from the Enomatic menu, with eight options to choose from. I won’t even pretend to be a wine connoisseur to say that I can taste the difference between a freshly opened bottle and one with a life lengthened by nitrogen gases, but I think the technology is neat.

We weren’t particularly hungry that day (having sampled some food at the gala), but opted to order something to share. The menu wasn’t as exciting as I had hoped for (particularly after our server told us the chef trained at the Hardware Grill), and consisted of pizza-like flatbreads, sandwiches, salads, and a handful of appetizers. We ended up with the leek and house-roasted ham French tart, recommended by our server.

The server told us the phyllo pastry was made in-house, which was a welcome surprise. Buttery, flaky and rich, it was definitely not an everyday dish, and accompanied with the crunchy shredded leeks and ham, it was wholly satisfying.

Leek and Ham French Tart

Being the only patrons that night had its pros and cons. Our food arrived in no time, but the lack of co-diners made our experience somewhat awkward. Our server was on top of us from the moment we walked in, but given his genuine nature and obvious desire to please, it was excusable. And if anything, his sincerity was much preferred to some of the more condescending service we’ve encountered in the city.

Best of luck to Moriarty’s – I hope to be back for a glass of wine after work soon!

Moriarty’s Bistro & Wine Bar
10162 100A Street
(780) 757-2005

Food Notes for January 11, 2010

I am very happy that House and (next week) 24 are back with new episodes. And though Canadians are again getting shafted with a delayed broadcast of Top Chef Masters, I’m enjoying the show so far! On to this week’s food notes:

  • The last week of this season’s Meet the Locals Festival at Planet Organic south runs January 11-17 – check out their tasting tables and cooking demonstrations!
  • The Art Gallery of Alberta posted details on their new food establishments, including ZINC, which will be led by Chef David Omar. It doesn’t look like they posted a menu yet, but from the hours, they will be serving brunch!
  • Two local businesses announced that they are branching out with their second locations this year – Whimsical Cupcakes, with a new store to open near the High Level Bridge, and a second Padmanadi, a vegetarian restaurant with a cult following, to open on 107 Avenue and 101 Street on May 21. Transcend Coffee also posted an update about their second “T2” location in Garneau – looks like coffee lovers will have to be patient, as the renovations will take longer than originally anticipated.
  • Vue Weekly published an interview with Peter Jackson, formerly the chef/owner of Jack’s Grill. Since selling Jack’s, he has taken on a position of “Culinary Leader” at the Cheesecake Cafe. Perhaps this will be a trend in the next five years – chefs leaving independent eateries to guide larger chains.
  • The Bothy was positively reviewed in the Journal this past week. There was also an article about Edmonton’s growing hunger to learn more about wine.
  • Chris over at Eating is the Hard Part has a great series of Q & As worth a read – the first with the owner of GF Patisserie in Cochrane and the second with Duane Hicks of Blue Plate Diner.
  • This is interesting – the LA Times becomes the first major NA newspaper to shift their food section from Wednesday to Thursday.
  • Though it’ll likely be 2011 before it ever airs on Food Network Canada, I’m happy to see that Gail Simmons (of Food & Wine Magazine, and with Tom Colicchio, form the best reality judging duo on television, in my opinion) will be hosting the second Top Chef spinoff called Just Desserts.
  • Speaking of TV, does anyone else find those new McDonald’s advertisements particularly endearing? I’m talking about the Chicken Parmigiana, Big Mac and Egg McMuffin campaigns that flash from image to image, set to catchy, upbeat music.
  • The Tim Horton’s commercial featuring the doughnut wheel (in conjunction with the 49cent doughnut add on promotion) made me laugh. And while at Tim’s last week grabbing a drink, I was surprised to find a small version of the wheel in store!

 

Pick your poison (I’m a sucker for the vanilla dip, so I wouldn’t leave it to chance)

  • Though I’m not sure that part of downtown Edmonton needed another one – a Starbucks in Commerce Place will open February 4.

 

This will make it four Starbucks within 3 downtown blocks

Have a good week everyone!

Slow Food Edmonton: Winter Solstice Supper

Valerie (aka A Canadian Foodie) is a valuable Slow Food Edmonton member, and is particularly outspoken when it comes to teaching children about good, clean and fair food. And as Mack and I found out on Saturday, she is also a host par excellence.

Valerie addresses the hungry masses

Valerie had the great idea of starting a series of Slow Food “solstice suppers” – informal opportunities to mingle and share a meal with other local Slow Food members – and offered to host the first event. So on Saturday, Mack and I joined about two dozen others at Valerie’s house with, of course, a dish in hand.

Gathering around the appetizers

I have made Giada de Laurentiis’s mini frittatas before, but this was my first time using duck eggs (from Greens, Eggs and Ham) and bacon (from Valbella). I also added mushrooms and the requisite Parmesan and parsley. Better served warm but fine at room temperature, they’re a great party appetizer that are both quick to assemble and bake off. And with duck instead of chicken eggs, I found them to be lighter and fluffier than usual!

Two-bite Frittatas made with Greens, Eggs and Ham duck eggs and Valbella bacon

The spread at Valerie’s was amazing – I would have been satisfied with consuming the cheese plate alone. But variety is the spice of life, and even in the dead of winter, it was fantastic to see the breadth of locally-procured goods utilized in all of the dishes. From the Gull Valley tomatoes in Valerie’s bruschetta to Sylvan Star Cheese in Maria’s potato gratin to bison sausage from First Nature Farms, it was clear that area producers still have much to offer right now.

Buffet

The star of the evening was undoubtedly the roast pig. Valerie and Vanja ordered the pig from one of Vanja’s friends, who obtains the pigs from Hillview Acres Farm then roasts them in stone ovens in his garage. The meat was very tender and moist, and as you can probably see from the photos, there was plenty to go around!

“Some pig”

Ready to eat

Though everything was delicious, I have to pay particular homage to Colleen and Vince’s bread. Two years ago, they built a wood-burning oven in their backyard, which enables them to make, among other things, crusty bread. They brought a sampling of loaves with them, and I really had to stop myself at three slices. I was lucky enough to score a small baguette to take home though – reheated this morning for breakfast, it was still superb.

Bread!

And dessert? Between David and Nicole’s moist-but-not-too-rich Bavarian torte and Valerie’s gorgeous cookies, we were made.

Around the dessert table

Valerie’s cookie trays

It was a nice touch that Valerie invited everyone to write out the name of their dish, including the names of local producers utilized, on cards to display next to the dishes – she is in the process of collecting recipes and once finished, will display them on the Slow Food Edmonton website.

Good food, good company #1

#2

#3

Thanks again to Valerie and Vanja for hosting such a great evening!

You can see my photoset here, and read Valerie’s post on the evening here.

Film: “Presumed Guilty”

Mack and I were invited to attend the second Doc Soup screening that took place at the Citadel’s Zeidler Hall on Thursday night. Global Visions Film Festival helped to bring Doc Soup to Edmonton – a monthly film series that showcases both local and international documentaries.

The night’s film was Presumed Guilty, a documentary exposing the ills of the Mexican justice system through one man’s struggle to prove his innocence. José Antonio Zuñiga was arrested and jailed for a homicide he was never proven to have committed, and as the title of the film alludes, in a system where a conviction matters more than justice, his subsequent retrial was for show only, and did not result in a verdict change. It was a minor miracle that the cameras were allowed to film the retrial however, and I have to say, the “face off” portion of the footage was fascinating. The defendant (behind a set of bars) was able to literally face his accusers – in this case, the witness and the case detectives – and ask them questions face to face.

Antonio appealed the guilty verdict, and was able to secure an eventual acquittal from the appellate judges, but in the process, spent nearly 900 days in jail.

Roberto Hernandez, one of the two people behind the film, actually attended the screening, and conducted a Q & A at the end of the film. He is a lawyer by trade, and continued to reiterate his lack of filmmaking skill and expertise – “I just edited until I cried,” he said.  He was also extremely modest regarding the impact he has made on reforming the Mexican justice system – it turned out his previous documentary The Tunnel, which he screened for the country’s legislators, was a catalyst for a constitutional amendment passed last year which institutes a presumption of innocence.

The next Doc Soup screening is Junior, on February 4. For $10, it’s sure to be a worthwhile evening of food for thought. Thanks again to Ted Kerr for the invitation!

Adam also attended and blogged about the film – check out his thoughts here.

Mispon Winter Light Gala 2010

I was really excited to attend the kick-off event of this year’s Winter Light festival, Mispon Gala (mispon is “it’s snowing” in Cree). Based on last year’s evening of entertainment and food, I thought things could only get better, with Winter Light now in it’s second year.

Before entering City Hall, I walked past Churchill Square, expecting to find some outdoor activities similar to the previous year such as fire pits, light and lantern installations, or a snow maze. Unfortunately, the Square was bare.

All of the evening’s activity was concentrated at City Hall. Three fire pits had been set up around the ice rink, with some braving the cold playing around on the ice as we were leaving, but for the most part, everyone was indoors.

Outside City Hall

The ceremonies had just started when I arrived, with several festival event organizers taking their turn at the microphone to introduce their respective projects. After that, the audience was treated to a performance by Kristine Nutting’s Warm Up Burlesque – a cheeky, reverse burlesque that had the dancers pulling on layers of clothing. It was somewhat amusing, but not my cup of tea.

Krstine Nutting’s Warm Up Burlesque

To end off the night, Johnny Quazar and the Swingbots provided the musical backdrop as NAIT catering dished out comforting plates of food, including Big Rock Winter Spice Ale glazed meatballs and maple baked beans with sourdough crostini. Our favourite actually turned out to be the honey-scented bannock with Saskatoon marmalade – the bannock was sweet, with a lovely consistency similar to a scone.

Johnny Quazar and the Swingbogs

Bannock and Baked Beans

I was a little disappointed festival organizers didn’t go the route chosen last year – offering free hot chocolate to those who brought a reusable mug (I realize I should have brought a container for the food samples as well). I do think, however, that the more festivals remind us to bring containers with us, the better – it will eventually become habit.

In the City Room

As a whole, I was expecting more of the gala – more people, more excitement, more festivities. The tone seemed restrained this year, and as Mack noted, the lack of outdoor activities (for a festival that celebrates the cold season) was unfortunate. I am still looking forward to some of the upcoming events though, such as Ice on Whyte and the Silver Skate Festival. Check the website for more details.

January in Edmonton is for Winter Fun!

I debated whether or not to put together a post of events for January, but here it is – remember to check out ShareEdmonton as well!

  • The second annual Winter Light Festival kicks off on January 6 with the Mispon Winter Light Gala. If it is anything like last year, I highly recommend you attend – it was an awesome evening! The Winter Light Festival continues until March 13.
  • The second Winter Light event of the year is Deep Freeze: A Byzantine Winter Festival in the Alberta Avenue community on January 9-10. In addition to family-friendly activities and entertainment, look forward to a suckling pig roast and maple sugar on snow!
  • Santa may not have come to Edmonton, but the Olympic Torch will, making a stop in our city on January 13.
  • Ice on Whyte, a celebration of carving and sculptures is on January 14-24. I didn’t make it out last year, but did in 2008.
  • Hope you’re hungry! Original Fare’s biannual Fork Fest runs January 17-21 and 24-28, with great pre-fixe dining deals at many of the Original Fare establishments. Check the website closer to the date for more details. Mack and I had a great meal at Red Ox Inn last year during the fest.
  • Edmonton’s “alternative theatre performance festival”, the Canoe Theatre Festival, returns January 19-31, courtesy of Workshop West.
  • Pecha Kucha 6 is taking place on January 21 – the last one I attended in October was great.
  • Another Winter Light Event, Snow Daze and Baba Yaga trail sound pretty cool – the opportunity to walk along a trail transformed into a magical forest. Check it out January 22-23.
  • The First Lego League Alberta Robotics Competition takes place on January 23 at NAIT.
  • The Edmonton Rush hosts their first home game on January 23. Gameday tickets start at just $19!
  • Though the Oilers could be doing better, their annual Superskills competition is a great, inexpensive way to see your favourite players. This year’s incarnation runs January 24 at Rexall.
  • The sparkly new Art Gallery of Alberta finally opens to the public on January 31. You will need a ticket for admission, but luckily, they are free! They will be available starting January 18.

Culinary Highlights: 2009 Edition

Scanning my posts from the past year, I was reminded again of how fortunate I am to be a part of a great culinary community in Edmonton and to have experienced (and eaten!) what I did in 2009.

So as in years past, here are a few of my culinary highlights from 2009, in no particular order:

 

Food: Today, Tomorrow, Together organizers

 

Pigs at Nature’s Green Acres

 

The greenhouse at Greens, Eggs and Ham

 

Me and Mack with our potato bounty

  • Attending my first ever Indulgence, and finding out that the evening really does live up to its name.

 

My favourite dish of the night – a Carmen Creek Ranch slider, prepared by Botanica

 

Wild Boar and Beer 2009

 

With the bell that I got to keep

  • Doing a lot of cooking (at least for me), including one of my favourite dish discoveries, cassoulet.

 

Mark Bittman’s version of cassoulet with lots of vegetables

With Chef Rob Feenie (Mack made me take the photo)

Mack occupies POTUS’s seat at Ben’s Chili Bowl

Melt-in-your-mouth gnocci at Proof

Jessie Radies of The Blue Pear, one of the three people I interviewed for the story

Latkes!

  • Attending two Foodie Meetups, and getting to meet some of the wonderful local food bloggers in person.

 

Foodie Meetup #1  at Blue Plate Diner

 Foodie Meetup #2 potluck at Dawson Park

  • Continuing to find diners to love – and still hoping for more of them in Edmonton.

Stuffed French toast from Dairy Lane in Calgary

Here’s to more eating in 2010!

Epicureous in Edmonton: 2009 in Review

I thought it was another great year for Edmonton’s food scene, though I probably sound like a broken record. However, it’s hard not to get excited when small, local businesses are getting the recognition they deserve in supplying the city with specialized products.

Tomatoes from Sundog Organics

Here are a few of the year’s notable trends and events:

  • A second Edmonton restaurant family was profiled in the third season of Family Restaurant early this year. Food Network Canada viewers were treated to a behind-the-scenes look at the Quons, the family behind local institutions The Lingnan and Chicken for Lunch. Unfortunately, the show left something to be desired.
  • While the effects of the recession were somewhat muted in Canada, people in Edmonton were still looking for dining deals to be had. As a result, several local restaurants, including The Blue Pear and Hardware Grill introduced menus with lower price points to entice patrons.
  • In spite of the economic downturn, several local establishments expanded their business in 2009. Health Fare opened its second location downtown, Famoso christened a third branch in South Edmonton Common, a third Mikado is now in the west end, and a new Transcend cafe will begin operation in Garneau in January 2010.
  • 2009 also saw several chains move into the city, including Cora’s, Cactus Club Cafe, and opening in early 2010, fondue restaurant Melting Pot.
  • Frozen yogurt shops, akin to their US cousins, have finally arrived in Edmonton! Twisted Yogurt opened up its first parlour in August, while Kiwi Kiss joined the fray in October. Expect many more storefronts in the first half of 2010.
  • As Eater would say, two’s a trend – both Vinomania and The Bothy are equipped with state-of-the-art Enomatic Wine Serving System. I wouldn’t be surprised if more restaurants go this route in the nest year.
  • Specialty bakeries were also launched in full force, with no less than four cake shops and cupcakeries popping up – Cake Couture, The Cake House, Flirt, and a second Fuss Cupcakes outlet on Whyte Avenue. Of course, who could forget Duchess, whose opening was the equivalent of a culinary earthquake in Edmonton.
  • A trend going into 2010 will undoubtedly be more transparent menus and accommodating kitchens, as more people require or choose gluten-free, vegetarian or vegan diets, but in 2009, Backstairs Cafe was already ahead of the trend, showcasing vegan cuisine and giving Edmonton its first culinary speakeasy in the process.
  • Local food producers continue to gain a foothold in the market, with the Good Food Box and new Alberta Avenue Farmers’ Market providing more opportunities to support area farmers, the Eat Local First initiative helping consumers to identify goods made by local purveyors, the Meet the Locals Festival connecting shoppers with producers, and the successful launch of We Eat Togethershowing the appetite for local food.

I’m looking forward to what 2010 has in store already!