A Place to Gather: Juniper Cafe & Bistro

Though Edmonton is most known-for its trendy restaurant districts – Downtown, 124 Street, Old Strathcona – the hidden gems buried within residential neighbourhoods are often the unsung heroes of our city. They are natural gathering places in areas where they might be few and far between, and provide a reason for residents to stay close to home. For me, it’s an excuse to explore a neighbourhood I might be less familiar with, pockets no less important in a city as diverse as Edmonton.

Juniper is one of the more recent low-key restaurant arrivals. While there have been a few reviews since it opened in November 2015, it’s still under the radar. On a Friday visit for dinner last month, we were told that the dining room, half-full, was one of their busier evenings.

Juniper took over the space formerly occupied by the infamous Strathearn Pub. While I hadn’t been to its previous incarnation, I imagine the space looks nothing like it once did, now with a wide open room and a built-in play space for little ones. Juniper’s defining feature is the counter, welcoming with displays of coffee, baked goods and tempting desserts. Juniper serves up three meals a day Wednesday to Saturday (and brunch on Sundays).

Juniper

Mack

Their dinner menu is based on the idea of sharing family-style plates, a way of eating that Mack and I really enjoy. We started with the chorizo queso fundido ($8) in lieu of the sold-out steamed buns with hoisin duck. While the queso fundido did arrive piping hot with devilishly stringy cheese, if you’ve had the same dish from Rostizado (which yes, is double the price), it’s hard to compare. It’s a version not dissimilar from what you might craft at home, but in this kid-friendly context, is probably a good dish to have on the menu.

Juniper

Queso fundido

The next two plates were fine, but over promised and under delivered. The roasted spuds with Indian spices ($12) needed to be "kicked up a notch", in Mack’s words. Even with the addition of duck gravy and cheese, they were much too mild in flavour.

Juniper

Roasted spuds with Indian spices

The spicy meatballs on polenta ($16) was our favourite dish. The meatballs and polenta were well-prepared, but similar to the potatoes, the heat level didn’t live up to its name at all.

Juniper

Spicy meatballs on polenta

Service was friendly, and we never felt rushed as we lingered over our coffee. Though we didn’t have dessert, I did pick up a cookie to take home, and after enjoying it wished I had the foresight to purchase more.

Overall, while Juniper didn’t quite reach the level of elevated comfort food, we are open to returning. They told us they are known for brunch, and their menu on the outset looks appealing. I hope they are able to refine some of their dishes to better meet diner expectations.

Juniper Cafe & Bistro 
9514 87 Street
(780) 490-6799
Wednesday-Friday 8am-8pm, Saturday 8am-9pm, Sunday 10am-2pm, closed Monday-Tuesday

With a Side of History: Sunday Brunch at Fort Edmonton Park

Fort Edmonton Park is easily my favourite City of Edmonton attraction. I’m a sucker for amusements, and the 1920s midway at Fort Edmonton is one of the city’s best kept secrets. In the off-season, however, the Park  operates on a limited basis – Capitol Theatre screens vintage films, Hotel Selkirk offers temporary accommodation year-round, and Johnson’s Café (located in Hotel Selkirk) hosts a special brunch every Sunday.

Mack and I were invited by Fort Edmonton Park to try their Sunday Brunch last weekend. Before settling on driving to the Park, we did explore public transit options (especially given the Park lends its name to an LRT stop). The closest we could get on a Sunday, however, was a bus ride from, ironically, University station followed by a 21 minute walk.

Fort Edmonton Park

Hotel Selkirk

Reservations are taken for seatings every half hour from 10:30am until 1pm. By the time we arrived for our noon reservation, we found Johnson’s Cafe nearly full, made up of small parties of two and larger groups of families with small children.

From the outset, the meal was of good value, food-wise, and more than justified $32.95 cost for adults (seniors tickets are $27.95 and children 4-12 are $19.95). We were told that over the years, the brunch selection has increased significantly, from occupying one corner of the dining room to now taking up the hotel lobby in its entirety.

Fort Edmonton Park

Omelette station

The Sunday brunch buffet spread spanned breakfast, lunch and dessert options. We started off with breakfast, taking full advantage of the omelette station, plump breakfast sausages and fantastically crispy bacon. We didn’t sample the eggs benedict, as it was doubtful the yolks would remain runny in the chafing dishes, but I did really enjoy the Parmesan grilled tomatoes.

Fort Edmonton Park

Breakfast for two

We returned to sample the lunch choices, which included several cold salads, cheeses and charcuterie, seasonal vegetables, pasta, pork loin in a pineapple sauce, grilled chicken, and a carving station offering up nicely marbled beef brisket with a peppercorn jus.

Fort Edmonton Park

Carving station

To be frank, I saved up the most room for dessert. I was most impressed with the dessert selection, highlighted by a showstopping red velvet cake and a deliciously moist spinach and beet cake (the green layers were vibrant without any noticeable spinach flavour). I was also drawn to the pineapple upside down cake, decadently served with a side of cream, and the notion of lavender and apple shooters, an interesting alternative to alcoholic shots. Mack was drawn to the kid-friendly desserts, including Rice Krispie treats and mini cupcakes.

Fort Edmonton Park

Desserts!

Service was fantastic throughout – there were numerous staff ensuring the food stations were constantly refilled, while the dining room staff checked in with us constantly, topping up our coffee and water without request.

After brunch, we wandered 1905 and 1920 Streets, peering into windows and enjoying the scenic facades on a sunny winter afternoon. In the summer, brunch includes admission to the Park, which operates May until September. On that warm day, we couldn’t help but wonder why Fort Edmonton couldn’t be a year-round attraction, or at least one with a season extended beyond one-off events like Christmas Reflections and Easter hunts.

Fort Edmonton Park

Visiting with the horses at Mellon Farm

As a part of the Winter City Strategy, the Park has built-in warming stations in its indoor facilities, and could easily replace train and streetcar transportation with horse-drawn wagon rides (an attraction that operates now, but is only available to groups). It would also be a great way to educate people about how Edmontonians in previous eras worked to stay warm.

Fort Edmonton Park

1920 Street

Mack and I both agreed that while we enjoyed our brunch experience at Hotel Selkirk, because it required a trip to Fort Edmonton without the promise of visiting the attraction as a whole, we would be more likely to return during the summer months when it could be combined with the operational Park.

Of note, because we did commit to driving to the Park, we detoured to finally check out the Alfred H. Savage Centre, located on the opposite side of Fox Drive from Fort Edmonton (accessible through the Whitemud Park turnoff). It’s a lovely facility with restrooms that functions as a warm-up centre for the adjacent toboggan hill (marked as "closed" that day, in spite of all of the families out enjoying the beautiful day). Consider walking off the sumptuous meal with a jaunt in the trails, as we did.

Whitemud Park

At Whitemud Park

Thanks again to Fort Edmonton Park for hosting us! The Winter Sunday Brunch series runs until March 27, 2016.

Check out Linda’s review of Sunday brunch here.

Eat Your Heart Out: Love Pizza

If there was ever a restaurant named just for Mack, it would be called Love Pizza. When we’re meal planning for the following week, his consistent answer for dishes to add on the list is “pizza”. It’s also the single item he would commit to eating for the rest of his life if he was forced to pick just one. So in many ways, Love Pizza was the perfect place for us to end up on Valentine’s Day, given Mack’s affection for pizza.

In the past, Mack and I have written about our reluctance to dine out on Valentine’s Day, particularly as it relates to the perceived lack of value and an inability to live up to expectations. But on that night, we couldn’t bring ourselves to cook. Plus, in an unlikely twist, Love Pizza was actually offering a deal of half off a second pizza, almost unheard of on an occasion where the opposite is more likely to occur. Given the origins of the restaurant, however – a first date for the owners at a local pizzeria that led to love – it’s a fitting way to celebrate a day all about love.

Famoso, a quick-serve pizza concept, has grown in the ten years since its debut in Edmonton to more than two dozen locations in Alberta, BC, Saskatchewan and Ontario. Last year, the folks behind Sabor Divino opened Urbano, a fast-casual pizzeria focused on customizable pies ready in under two minutes. Love Pizza is the latest to embrace this build-your-own trend (including offering a gluten-free crust), and opened up in the Canterra Centre (10196 109 Street) on January 29, 2016.

Walking in to Love Pizza that night, we found the restaurant half full. The former tanning salon has been transformed into a cafeteria-style dining room, where orders are placed and picked up along the counter. We were both impressed by the fully-developed nature of the concept – everything from the signage to the menu had obviously been thought through to the point where we almost thought Love Pizza belonged to a franchise.

Love Pizza

Love Pizza

In addition to the ability to create your own pie, Love Pizza also offers ten signature creations ($11.95 each), as well as a limited number of salads and desserts. They source some ingredients locally, including Gold Forest Grains flour for their whole wheat crust, Irvings Farm Fresh bacon and Spolumbo’s Italian sausage. I did appreciate the fact that toppings were differentiated from “finishes” – ingredients that are added after baking (it never made sense to me why Famoso would always choose to incinerate fresh basil on their margarita pizzas). That night, we chose to order the Meatatarian and the Old MacDonald on regular crust.

Love Pizza

Counter

The pizzas were assembled in front of us with an obvious amount of care by very personable staff. They were then placed in an oven that promised a fully baked pizza in three minutes. We were told that the restaurant is working on installing a hood fan; the smoke wasn’t particularly noticeable that evening, but on a subsequent visit we definitely smelled like smoke after dinner.

Love Pizza

Order up

Love Pizza understands that we all eat with our eyes first – their pizzas are some of the most photogenic I’ve ever encountered. They also didn’t skimp on the toppings, especially with the cheese. The crust is sturdy but nicely chewy, earning a thumbs up from Mack.

Love Pizza

Old MacDonald

I enjoyed the Meatatarian, featuring a tomato sauce base with fior di latte, pepperoni, capicolla, Spolumbo’s Italian sausage and shaved parmesan. Mack’s pick of the Old MacDonald layered spicy tomato sauce with fior di latte, two eggs, Spolumbo’s Italian sausage, spinach, shaved parmesan and a drizzle of chili oil. Both pizzas had a ton of flavour from the toppings and a great diversity of texture.

Love Pizza

Meatatarian

Based on the food, reasonable prices, and a relaxed atmosphere, Love Pizza just may have become our go-to pizzeria Downtown. They even have a loyalty program offering $5 off your next purchase. It’s a great concept, one that works for people looking for a quick bite during the day or those hoping to unwind in the evening. I hope they are successful and can maintain the quality in the long run.

Love Pizza
10196 109 Street
(587) 520-9734
Monday to Sunday 11am – 10pm

Celebrating the International Year of Pulses with Alberta Pulse

The UN General Assembly declared 2016 as the International Year of Pulses, highlighting their affordability, nutritional value and sustainability. As nearly 10% of Alberta’s crop acres are dedicated to growing pulses, it is a good time to promote this commodity at home.

Mack and I were invited to attend a recent event hosted by the Canadian Association of Foodservice Professionals (CAFP) at NAIT celebrating this hallmark year for pulses. The CAFP is a national organization that represents chefs, hospitality representatives, food manufacturers and nutritionists, among others. Local branches host learning opportunities for their members, including visits to area food production facilities. In February, in collaboration with Alberta Pulse, the Edmonton branch explored the topic of pulses.

CAFP Alberta Pulse Dinner

CAFP at Ernest’s

It’s a subject I’ve been learning more about in the kitchen for a few years now. After reading Mark Bittman’s Food Matters more than five years ago (his mission was to encourage more conscious consumption of non-meat proteins), I was inspired to start including more beans and lentils in our diet. In 2011, Julie Van Rosendaal and Sue Duncan’s cookbook, Spilling the Beans, was released, becoming one of our go-to guides for meal inspirations. Now, pulses have just become a part of our regular rotation, both as a meat alternative but also to enhance soups, salads and mains, stretching the meal all while adding nutrients. At this point, our pantry and freezer would feel bare without having some variety of pulses on hand. CAFP Alberta Pulse Dinner

Allison Ammeter

That said, the presentations that evening were informative, especially to provide a local context. Farmer and chair of the Alberta Pulse Board, Allison Ammeter, shared the following:

  • Lentils fix their own nitrogen in the soil, meaning a reduced need for fertilizer when used as a part of a regular crop rotation;
  • Most pulses use less water, particularly peas and lentils, which is great for drought-prone regions; and
  • Pulses leave the soil better than it was – wheat grows better on pulse stubble.

Alberta grows a variety of pulses: primarily peas (green, yellow, marrowfat), but also beans (great northern, black, cranberry, pink, small red), lentils (red, green) and chickpeas. And though most are familiar with whole pulses, they can be purchased as flour products as well.

It’s also an unfortunate reality that it’s not easy to locate "product of Alberta" pulses. Unless it is packaged in the province, even locally-grown products end up with a broader "product of Canada" label. Perhaps in the grand scheme of things, it doesn’t matter if it lists the growing province, but it does make it more difficult for those hoping to source their food as locally as possible (thankfully in Edmonton, Gold Forest Grains does sell excellent organic red lentils). As the Minister of Agriculture was present that evening, I was hoping that some advocacy might have happened on the need for more production facilities in the province.

CAFP Alberta Pulse Dinner

Debra McLennan

Debra McLennan from Alberta Pulse shared some nutritional facts of pulses:

  • They are gluten-free and vegetarian;
  • They are low in fat, and protein-packed (curiously, in Australia, legumes are classified as a vegetable when a 1/2 cup is served, but as a meat alternative when 3/4 cup is served);
  • They are an excellent source of folate and are high in fibre; and
  • They are beneficial in reducing "bad" cholesterol.

Pulses are also relatively light on the wallet, costing significantly less when compared with meat sources of protein. In the context of rising food prices, affecting everyone from consumers at home to restaurant operators, this spotlight on pulses couldn’t come at a better time.

In collaboration with the chefs at Ernest’s, Debra designed the evening’s menu to highlight the many sides of pulses. To start, we enjoyed a duo of yellow split pea soup and a pork croquette which used a white bean purée to bind the meat.

CAFP Alberta Pulse Dinner

Duo of yellow split pea soup and pork croquette

The entrée was a pan-roasted chicken served with a lentil and rice pilaf. The chicken was very well-prepared, and the pilaf tasty enough, but it was a missed opportunity not to highlight pulses as the main event (Indian-inspired dal, or falafel, for instance).

CAFP Alberta Pulse Dinner

Pan roasted herbed breast of chicken

For dessert, we were treated to a lentil fudge pie. The pie incorporated a red lentil purée that could not be detected, taste-wise, and with the added nutrients, it’s almost a guilt-free dessert. That recipe can be found online at the Alberta Pulse website.

CAFP Alberta Pulse Dinner

Lentil fudge pie

If you’re interested in learning more about pulses, check out more recipes at pulses.org, and consider taking the pulse pledge – all it takes is committing to eating a half cup of pulses per week.

Thanks to the CAFP and Alberta Pulse for having us!

In the Dark of Night: Luminaria

In a northern city like Edmonton, it’s somewhat surprising that we don’t celebrate the inevitable darkness of winter more. It could be as simple as highlighting Elk Island Park, a dark sky preserve perfect for star gazing, or taking advantage of the opportunity to light up the night, outside of the holiday season.

This weekend’s Flying Canoe Volant is a great example of this, lighting up the trails of the Mill Creek Ravine to encourage families to explore an area typically avoided after dark. And every December, the Devonian Botanical Garden’s Luminaria transforms the Kurimoto Japanese Garden into a beautiful canvas of lights.

Luminaria

Luminaria

Mack and I had been meaning to visit Luminaria for years, but never planned well enough in advance to do so. Tickets are sold fast and furious weeks prior to the annual festival, held the first weekend in December. In 2015, organizers added another layer to the tickets, asking patrons to choose between limited on-site parking and free shuttles from either the University of Alberta or Devon in advance. Mack and I found the shuttle option both convenient and seamless – we hopped on the LRT from home and walked over to the waiting yellow buses parked across from Health Sciences/Jubilee Station, and allowed the able drivers to take care of the rest.

Luminaria

Angels among us

It was clear that for some, Luminaria is an annual family tradition that helps mark the beginning of the holiday season. Patrons varied in age, with some groups spanning multiple generations.

Luminaria

Kurimoto Japanese Garden

The main attraction is, of course, the Kurimoto Japanese Garden, its paths lined with 2,000 candles. Each night, volunteers light the candles, all carefully placed into paper bags weighted down with sand. To recreate this magic at home, the gift shop even had ready-made kits for sale.

Luminaria

Small but mighty

Just to the right of the garden was a section called Memory Lane, meant for those wishing to light a candle in remembrance of a loved one. Volunteers reminded us to be mindful of those in mourning along the path.

Luminaria

Memory Lane

The rest of our stroll was a mix of quiet reflection and appreciation of the lights in a context of darkness, and a reminder that the festive season was around the corner. A highlight for me was enjoying the complimentary hot apple cider while listening to roving Christmas carollers.

Luminaria

Carollers under the lights

Besides the main attraction, there was a small hay bale maze for the young ones to explore, and those of all ages had the option of writing down a wish to hang on their trees (reminding me of the Nuit Blanche Wishing Tree installation in Churchill Square last fall). There was also a small indoor craft sale to peruse for those thinking ahead. Our only complaint was with the food offered on-site, as the choice was limited to beef stew. Perhaps other options could be offered in the future that would be equally easy to eat and venue-appropriate? A broader menu would at least encourage patrons to linger, as we found we were done exploring the garden and the surrounding attractions in about an hour.

Luminaria

Wishing upon a star

Our first time at Luminaria did not disappoint, and we really did appreciate how easy it was to get to and from the Devonian Botanical Garden. If you’re interested in checking it out for yourself, mark your calendars for December 2-4, 2016. Tickets go on sale September 1, 2016.

Sustainable in Summerside: Workshop Eatery

Cards Against Urbanity is a spin off of the wildly popular game called Cards Against Humanity, with all sorts of urban planning humour imbedded within. One of the phrases that stuck with me was, "A LEED Certified building in the middle of nowhere." I immediately thought of that card when I visited the Mosaic Centre.

Workshop Eatery

Mosaic Centre

A LEED certified building on the current edge of our city, the Mosaic Centre has been lauded as a pristine example of sustainability. While there’s no doubt that it is a beautiful facility – a ton of natural light, a living wall and an open design that encourages connectivity – it is unfortunately quite isolated, adjacent to a residential neighbourhood and not much else. Something needs to be said about its location – if everyone visiting the site drives in (as many do, as there is only one bus that services it at the moment), doesn’t it take away from its net zero status?

Workshop Eatery

Mosaic Centre interior

But then again, the focus of this post isn’t about the building, it’s about the restaurant located on its main floor. Workshop Eatery is Chef Paul Shufelt’s first solo establishment, opened after ten years leading the kitchens of the Century Hospitality Group. How it came to be was in some ways a happy accident – a conversation about the possibilities of a space in a green building. Paul was drawn to the opportunity to put down his own roots, including literal roots into the ground in an adjacent garden to supply the restaurant. It was also a chance to enhance the relationships with local producers that he had started over the past few years, but were ultimately more difficult to manage within the complexities of a group of restaurants.

Workshop Eatery

Chef Paul Shufelt

There are many ways to be sustainable, and though I’m somewhat skeptical of the Mosaic Centre as a whole, Workshop Eatery could help bring some awareness to an area of the city where there are fewer independent restaurants and establishments that promote an eat local philosophy. Besides utilizing the honey captured from the building’s rooftop bee hives, Paul and his staff spent much of the fall canning and preserving vegetables harvested from local farmers, hoping that the inventory of 400 jars will last into the spring. The plan from May to October is for the menu to feature at least one dish made with an item picked fresh from the front yard garden.

Workshop Eatery

Interior

Before Christmas, some friends and I met up at Workshop Eatery for brunch on a Sunday. Two of those friends live in Summerside, so were particularly optimistic to see what their new neighbour had to offer. The first impressions were positive – we loved the high ceilings, the abundance of windows, and the accessibility of the open kitchen. That natural light extended into the kitchen itself – most staff working in galley-type spaces would been green-eyed at the sight.

Workshop Eatery has quite a varied menu for brunch, with a dozen dishes to choose from. It does have something for everyone, including vegetarians and those who lean towards more hearty lunch offerings instead of breakfast. I settled on the chorizo & chedda’ omelette ($17) while Mack selected the traditional eggs benedict ($17). Our only letdown on the menu side is a brunch pet peeve of ours, though we understand the space and equipment requirements – Workshop only serves espresso-based drinks, while Mack and I much prefer drip coffee in the mornings. We make do with Americanos, but it just isn’t quite the same.

Workshop Eatery

Chorizo & chedda’ omelette

At any rate, the service was fantastic throughout our meal, attentive and much more polished than we would have expected from a newly-opened restaurant. We also thoroughly enjoyed the food, and appreciated the use of local products, such as Four Whistle Farm eggs. I thought the chorizo omelette packed a lot of flavour, and I appreciated the added dimension of a potato hash on the side as opposed to more plain potatoes. Mack had no complaints about his eggs benedict, with the eggs poached soft as requested.

Workshop Eatery

Traditional eggs benedict

Before we left, we were eyeing up some of the dinner items – among them the ricotta and potato stuffed perogies and the cleverly named duck duck couscous (which Paul had no qualms telling us it was a name he borrowed from Farrow Sandwiches). We know we’ll be back at some point, but given it isn’t in our neck of the woods, it might be some time before we find an excuse to visit Summerside again.

Workshop Eatery
2003 91 Street SW
(780) 705-2205
Monday-Wednesday 11am-10pm, Thursday-Friday 11am-11pm, Saturday 10am-3pm and 5-11pm, Sunday 10am-3pm and 5-9pm

Room to Improve: Daravara

After work one evening before Christmas, I hopped on the bus to meet Mack for dinner. We had been hoping to finally try Relish, but upon arrival, found that they were closed for a private function. Undaunted, we considered our other options, as 124 Street offers an abundance of choices. We eventually settled on Daravara (10713 124 Street) just across the street.

Unlike many other bars in Edmonton, Daravara seems to have bucked the trend of maximizing seating in favour of generous spacing between furnishings and a games area. As a result, the vibe seemed much more relaxed and casual than some similar establishments. It was easy to see how Daravara could become the go-to watering hole for locals in the area, especially with their very reasonable prices for beer and wine.

Daravara

The bar at Daravara

Since reading about their burger offering, Daravara has been on our list of restaurants to visit. But it seems that their menu has been overhauled since that time. In spite of that, I thought the menu as a whole had much to choose from, including a variety of tacos, sandwiches, and appetizers (I saved the popcorn chicken hearts for another time). That night, I settled on the beer cheese burger ($14), while Mack chose the waffle clubhouse ($15).

Daravara

Mack

Service was good throughout, and the kitchen, in spite of a near full-house, was on point, and we didn’t have to wait long for our plates to arrive. That said, the flavours could have been better. My burger, served with house-made beer cheese, secret sauce and lettuce, tomato and caramelized onion, had an underseasoned patty, and was unremarkable.

Daravara

Beer cheese burger with poutine

Mack’s clubhouse, with house-smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato and ranch dressing, would have benefited from additional texture. The cheddar cheese waffles were not crispy, and the chicken in this case was grilled, not fried.

Daravara

Waffle clubhouse with werewolf fries

On the side, I upgraded to a poutine (additional $2.50). The fries were freshly fried and spiced in a way that reminded me of Drift’s house seasoning. But the miso gravy wasn’t my favourite – while there was a noticeable miso base, I didn’t enjoy the saccharine aftertaste. Mack’s substitution of werewolf fries (additional $2.50) were overwhelmingly spicy for him, featuring chipotle cheese, malt vinegar, hot sauce and green onions.

There are still some items on the menu we’d like to try in the future, so though we were hoping for more from Daravara on our first visit, we will be back again in the future.

Daravara
10713 124 Street
(587) 520-4980
Tuesday-Thursday 11:30am-midnight, Friday-Saturday 11am-2am, Sunday 11am-5pm, closed Mondays

Epicureous in Edmonton: 2015 Year in Review

Trends, especially in Edmonton, can take several years to take root. And in putting these summaries together, I’m reminded of how, in many ways, the calendar year is just an arbitrary measure of time.

Coffee Bureau

Several third wave cafes like Coffee Bureau sprouted in 2015

But we are fortunate to live in a community where there is an ever-increasing number of people who care about the food they grow, prepare, or serve, so it’s our duty to acknowledge and appreciate these changes, even if they sometimes seem incremental and small.

Here’s what was notable to me in 2015:

  • The independent dining scene in St. Albert came into its own this year, attracting attention with openings like farm-to-table restaurant 12 Acres, Buco, Sorrentino’s first pizza and wine bar, and a second location of Chef Andrew Fung’s much-lauded Nineteen. Closely tied in was the continued rise of independent suburban establishments, such as Cured and Workshop Eatery.
  • In Central Edmonton, we gained a number of third wave cafes: Coffee Bureau, Lockstock, Rogue Wave Coffee, Bru and Barking Buffalo. Nomad Espresso also started operations as the city’s first mobile coffee cart.
  • While I don’t think we’ve quite hit “peak ramen” in the Capital Region just yet, it was a banner year for the noodles, with the fervor for the opening of Prairie Noodle Shop exceeding expectations.
  • While Japanese-inspired ramen may be the hottest #yegfood item at the close of 2015, Edmonton experienced a Korean wave this year, with Nongbu, Tofu House, It’ All and Daore joining the fold.
  • The humble sandwich is also alive and well, with inspired and tasty offerings available from Sandwich and Sons, Dovetail Deli, The Local Omnivore, and even an outpost of Calgary-based Chachi’s at West Edmonton Mall.
  • We did lose a few notable establishments this year, including Unheardof and Happy Garden. On the side of food retail, Mother’s Market closed after a year of operation.
  • Crowdfunding projects aren’t new to the local food scene (Creole Envie embraced it to jumpstart a trip to the Taste of Edmonton in 2014), but it took on life this year, with a successful Kickstarter campaign for Chartier, a forthcoming French-Canadian restaurant in Beaumont. Prairie Noodle Shop and regional restaurant/social justice project The Alder Room also tried to raise online backers.
  • Edmontonians love competitions – the Canadian Food Championships were newly installed in 2015 by Events Edmonton, and Get Cooking’s wildly popular Edmonton Food Fight began in February. Several local chefs including Shane Chartrand and David Omar also appeared on national food programs like Chopped and Masterchef.
  • When we started Eat Alberta back in 2011, opportunities to develop food skills were isolated to often pricey one-off classes. In 2015, with the Dig In Festival in its second year, and the advent of the Edmonton Resilience Festival and Little Brick Home School, it’s great to see that chances for learning are becoming more widespread. On a related DIY note, City Council approved urban beekeeping in April.
  • 2015 saw its share of pop-up dinners, some in unusual, unique locations. It’ll be interesting to see whether this trend can sustain itself, given the price associated with many of these events is steadily increasing.
  • It was great to see some local interpretations of the anti-food waste movement, such as the SalvagED pop-ups that made meals from otherwise discarded produce, and Reclaim Urban Farm’s sale of so-called “ugly” vegetables.

Onward to 2016!

You can check out previous year in reviews here.

‘Tis the Season at the Hotel Macdonald: Nutcracker Tea and Tour

There are few places in Edmonton that get decked out for the holidays like the Hotel Macdonald. You only need to walk into their lobby to get whisked away in the Christmas spirit – between the bedazzled fifteen foot tree and the twinkly gingerbread rendition of the building, the Hotel Mac does it right.

Hotel Macdonald

Gingerbread Hotel Macdonald

Their holiday season offerings range from special dinners on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, to themed meals like the Dickens buffet (a nineteenth century, English-style lunch) and Nutcracker Tea and Tour. The latter is a festive take on their respected Royal Tea and Tour, featuring a holiday-inspired menu and some other surprises. Mack and I took his Grandma Male for tea on Saturday. We had been meaning to take her for some time – Grandma Male actually worked at the hotel switchboard in the 1950s, and she hadn’t been back to the building since.

Reservations were accepted for 2:30pm in the Harvest Room. Although it wasn’t quite a full house, the families, friends and couples who gathered had all dressed up for the occasion.

Nutcracker Tea & Tour

Grandma Male and Mack

We started off with a glass of sparkling wine, a nice touch for the holidays, and shortly after, were presented with the tea selection. I was anticipating that all of the teas would have been loose, as is traditional, but there was a mix of tea bags and loose teas. Grandma Male and I both chose a nice Buckingham Palace orange pekoe.

Our first treats arrived warm from the oven – classic scones and candied pecan-eggnog scones. They were absolutely delicious, though to be honest, I think I used the scones as a vessel to consume as much Devonshire cream and port cranberry compote as possible.

Nutcracker Tea & Tour

Scones!

The tiered trays contained both savoury and sweet bites. No cucumber sandwiches to be seen, the selection included oven roasted turkey with citrus sage aioli on a mini navette. Our favourite on the savoury side was the applewood smoked cheddar, ham and grainy dijon aioli on an adorable mini bagel.

Nutcracker Tea & Tour

Beautiful presentation

The kitchen did a great job accommodating Mack’s nut allergy, making substitutions when necessary, such as ensuring the white chocolate and pistachio mousse was nowhere to be seen on his tray. While we enjoyed all of the dainty confections, the ginger orange madeleine was the pronounced favourite.

Nutcracker Tea & Tour

Photobombing tea service

The only misstep that afternoon was the fact that we were only told about the timing of the tour about ten minutes prior to its start. Although we weren’t rushed through tea service, it would have been nice to know the flow in advance. Otherwise, the service was impeccable, as is standard at the Hotel Macdonald.

We assembled in the Wedgewood Room for a special performance by some of the dancers from Clara’s Dream. Shumka’s Ukrainian version of The Nutcracker, the preview showcased the music and the energy you would expect from a fusion of dance styles. Clara’s Dream runs December 29-30, 2015 at the Jubilee Auditorium.

Nutcracker Tea & Tour

Dancers from Clara’s Dream

Afterwards, Carlos, a staff of the Hotel Macdonald, led us on a brief tour of the building. This wasn’t my first tour of the Hotel Macdonald, but what I always appreciate is how personal each tour is, coloured by the individual experience of each staff member. In this case, Carlos shared that he had worked as Queen Elizabeth’s butler when she stayed at the Hotel Macdonald back in 2005, commenting on her strong appetite and desire to know how her food was prepared. On this tour, we weren’t able to visit the Queen Elizabeth Suite, as the top two floors of the hotel are currently undergoing renovations, and aren’t set to reopen until April.

Hotel Macdonald

The Empire Ballroom

Carlos also informed us about the Hotel Macdonald’s reputation among the Fairmont properties – although being the second smallest, it hosts the most weddings of all. With as many as six weddings per day in the summer, he jokes to the grooms to ensure they go home with the right bride at the end of the night, and to the brides that in order to have their dream wedding at the castle on the river, that they should book their wedding date and then go out and find the right groom.

Hotel Macdonald

With Grandma Male

The Nutcracker Tea and Tour is a great way to celebrate the holidays. It runs every Saturday and Sunday until December 27, with the only other preview of Clara’s Dream to take place at the December 19 tea. The cost is $49 per person, with reservations recommended. Happy holidays!

The Perfect Match: Credo Coffee and Jacek Chocolate Tasting

It’s great to see when local businesses team up to support one another, whether that’s Dovetail Deli providing shelf space to sell products from Gold Forest Grains and McKernan Food Works, or Remedy Cafe stocking vegan Bloom Cookies at the counter. There is strength in numbers, as awareness is half the battle, and it takes a community to move these independent brands forward.

The tasting organized by Credo Coffee and Jacek Chocolate Couture is another great example of this. When the tickets were released in late summer, I jumped at the excuse to enjoy two of my favourite things. Mack and I had attended a wine and chocolate pairing two years ago at Baseline Wines, and had found it to be a fun and educational experience. And given Mack’s already a fixture at Credo, he didn’t need any additional incentives to come along this time around.

Credo & Jacek Coffee & Chocolate Tasting

Coffee and chocolate

In mid-November, Mack and I bussed over to Credo on 124 Street. We joined a fairly small group, less than two dozen in number, who seemed just as excited for the evening. Chelsea (from Credo) and Jamie (from Jacek) welcomed us and explained that the partnership between the two businesses began in 2010, when Credo became Jacek’s first retail partner. They have collaborated since then, working together to produce The Credo Bar earlier this year, a dark chocolate combined with espresso beans, and then, most recently, to organize a series of tastings.

Credo & Jacek Coffee & Chocolate Tasting

Jamie and Chelsea

The focus of the evening was on “mindful eating” – to deliberately and thoughtfully experience each taste, as opposed to what we’re all guilty of at times – consuming in haste or (for me, with coffee in the mornings) for pure sustenance. For reference, we were provided with copies of the Taster’s Flavour Wheel, which would aid us in articulating the notes detected in coffee and chocolate. Both Chelsea and Jamie emphasized that everyone has a different palate, and as such, can pick up different flavours.

Credo & Jacek Coffee & Chocolate Tasting

Flavour Wheel

We started with tasting three of Credo’s coffees, all roasted by Chicago-based Intelligensia. Intelligensia rotates through several regions of coffee as they become available seasonally, moving from Central America in the spring/summer to Africa in the fall/winter. We started with perhaps my favourite single-origin, the Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, a light and floral roast. We moved to the Itzamna from Guatemala, a coffee grown on the grounds of a former silver mine. The farmers are committed to organic practices, choosing a labour-intensive path of applying clay to the roots of the plants to regulate their temperature. This coffee was definitely much fuller-bodied, with a toasted flavour. Lastly, we sampled the Ethiopian Kurimi, grown by farmers interested only in planting varieties indigenous to the area. Our fellow tasters noted the Kurimi had hints of lychee and jasmine.

Credo & Jacek Coffee & Chocolate Tasting

Ethiopian Yirgacheffe

Onto chocolate, I was happy to learn about Jacek’s new Fabric Collection. Launched on November 13, 2015, it is Jacek’s first foray into bean-to-bar production. In the past, they’ve relied on Valrhona as their chocolate supplier, but now, they have the capacity to sort, roast, winnow and refine cocoa beans at their facility in Sherwood Park. Currently, they are producing three 70% single-origin varieties, all of which we tried that night.

Jacek Fabric Collection

Fabric Collection

The Dominican Republic, refined for seventy two hours, had tropical fruit undertones. I already knew I would enjoy the Venezuela, typically the single-origin I choose, creamy and balanced. The Peru was a surprise – unlike the subtle flavours of the previous two, for us, it had very distinct notes of dried fruit.

The evening cumulated in two pairings. The first was to sample The Credo Bar, made with the Dominican Republic and Black Cat espresso (we were told this iteration was selected from twelve combinations). The flavour profile reminded me of the Mocha Bar that the now-defunct Kerstin’s Chocolates had produced with beans from Transcend Coffee, but instead of the added texture of whole beans, The Credo Bar conches the cocoa and coffee beans together for a smooth finish.

We ended with an unconventional pairing – while I have incidentally enjoyed chocolate alongside tea, it’s not a classic match. Here, we sampled maojian green tea with the single-origin Venezuela, and it worked. Jamie shared that this has been the gateway for staff to consider other unusual pairings, and future tastings may feature more tea than coffee.

Credo & Jacek Coffee & Chocolate Tasting

Coffee cheers!

We enjoyed our first foray into coffee and chocolate tasting, and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it to others. Jacek and Credo have just added another pairing date on January 15, 2016, so it’s something to consider as a gift this holiday season. Tickets are $40 each.