Author: Sharon Yeo

Sharon is an Edmonton-based blogger who has been writing about food since 2006.

Food Notes for March 22, 2010

I totally wasn’t prepared for this blast of winter, but then again, our seemingly early spring was too good to be true. On to this week’s food notes:

  • You have just over a week to get your entry into the Edmonton Food Bank’s Expressions of Hunger Contest!
  • I’m sure by now you’ve seen at least a few posts on David Adjey’s whirlwind few days at NAIT’s latest Chef in Residence. If you want to experience the Chef firsthand, NAIT has since posted the video, edited slightly for (PG) content.
  • Whimsical Cupcakes celebrated their first day of operations in their new location (8716 109 Street, next to the Garneau Theatre) on Friday. Their grand opening will take place sometime in April.
  • I had been wondering what the former Elkhorn Ranch & Resort space on Jasper Avenue and 114 Street was being turned into (a mishmash of banquets and chairs seemed to indicate some sort of restaurant was moving in) – thanks to Nate, I now know it’s the new location of CoCo Di’s.
  • The Journal’s Alan Kellogg positively reviewed ZINC over the weekend. I do wonder what “trash talk…in cyberspace” he is referring to, and why he bothered to mention the Twitter incident without elaborating on what happened.
  • Vue Weekly’s cover story last week featured the Enoteca wine system.
  • Via Chris LaBossiere’s blog – Riverbend and Terwillegar communities are gauging public interest for a new farmers’ market in the area. Take the survey here.
  • Mack sent me a link about a green roof that will be installed on the Williams Engineering building. While it won’t support produce, it’s a definite start.
  • Congratulations to Laura Calder and her team at French Food at Home for their James Beard nomination – they’re up against some good company: Iron Chef America and Barefoot Contessa. Award results on May 2 and 3 (I also love that they actively use their Twitter account).
  • Eater National compiled a list of “top 10 restaurant design trends that need to go”. I realize that we are behind the times (many of the trends haven’t even landed here yet), and I really do like Edison bulbs and chalkboard menus…
  • My sister sent me a link to a coupon that will get you a free pastry at Starbucks on March 23 between opening and 10:30am. I think it’s neat that instead of printing the coupon, you can show it to a barista on your mobile device.
  • Last week, I forgot to include a quick photo I snapped of David’s Tea, a new tea bar and shop in WEM. As soon as I stepped into the store, I was accosted by a perky sales clerk with a sample of a fruity rooibos tea. It looks like a sleek shop – I wouldn’t mind returning sometime to browse a bit more closely.

 

David’s Tea

  • I mentioned last week that the old Way of Life/Mode de Vie (10203 116 Street) will soon be transformed into the city’s latest Indian restaurant. At the red light – a stop-by shot:

Forthcoming Bistro India

The Cooking Chronicles: Chicken for Lunch

With pan-frying and roasting being our go-to methods of cooking chicken, I really never considered poaching an option before. From reading tips on various websites, it seemed the trick to moist, flavourful meat was to throw in some flavouring agents (bay leaves, peppercorns, onions, garlic, salt, etc.), and not to overcook it.

Needing some cooked chicken for a We Eat Together recipe for curried chicken and apple soup, I decided to poach a chicken breast in the chicken stock and coconut milk that would become the base of the soup anyway. Good idea, in theory, except that coconut milk has a tendency to boil over…very quickly. Besides having to clean the stove though, the method worked reasonably well. The apples were an interesting textural addition to the soup – they became almost translucent in appearance, and lost most of their sweetness to the broth. I probably wouldn’t have known they were apples if I didn’t add them myself. It’s hard not to love a soup that contains coconut milk though!

Curried Chicken and Apple Soup (photographed in the very drab lunch room at my office – between the fluorescent lighting and the grey tables, I admit defeat)

A second meal involving poached chicken (this time just in water, with a few aromatics thrown in), was a variation on Donna Hay’s chicken pot pies, from No Time To Cook. Her version involved combining cooked chicken with sour cream, shredded cheddar to be baked in ramekins and a puff pastry crust. I decided to throw in some peas and steamed potatoes and carrots for good measure.

Chicken Ramekin Pies

The final product was perfectly sized for lunch the next day (and the puff pastry wasn’t too worse for wear heated separately in a toaster oven).

Mmm…puff pastry

It’s always handy to have more cooking methods at my disposal, especially ones that don’t involve a lot of work on my part!

My 2010 Wish List for Edmonton’s Food Scene

In January last year, I put together a wish list of things I wanted to see in Edmonton’s food scene. Though not many from that list have actually come to pass (yet), I thought it was time to note down some other culinary delights I would love to see more of in our city:

  • Breakfast joints and diners: Perhaps this point comes from watching one too many episodes of Diners, Drive Ins and Dives, but regardless, I think Edmonton has an under-developed breakfast culture. Sure, we have a handful of diners (Route 99, Urban Diner, Blue Plate Diner, and most recently, Cora’s), but every time I visit Calgary, I’m left with diner envy. Calgarians love their Nellie’s (have you seen the line-ups?), and have a plethora of casual weekend brunch options to choose from (Avenue Diner, Dairy Lane, Galaxie Diner, Diner Deluxe, and one of the newest, Over Easy Breakfast, just to name a few). What will it take to inject a more frenzied love (and market) for brunch in Edmonton?
  • Dessert bars: Though I do enjoy multi-course meals at a single restaurant, I’m also a huge fan of dining mobility, and being able to seamlessly relocate elsewhere for drinks, coffee, or dessert. Unfortunately, specialty dessert bars (such as Nectar in Calgary) have not yet landed in Edmonton.
  • Food trucks: A downside of following the New York food scene is having no real local point of reference to understand their amazing culture of food carts (to the point where food trucks are being used to promote a website launch for NBC). Aside from Fat Franks and Filistix, Edmonton is bereft of outdoor food purveyors. Though I recognize our long winters may play a factor, as well as a lack of critical mass of potential customers in the core, isn’t it cool to see food trucks Tweeting their daily location?
  • Rooftop patios and gardens: I realize Edmonton isn’t quite dense enough to have to resort to utilizing rooftop spaces yet, but there’s nothing like sipping a cool drink on a hot summer day on a rooftop patio. The Black Dog, Chili’s on Whyte Avenue, Latitude 53, and now, the Art Gallery of Alberta are all equipped with above-ground terraces, but I’m hoping for more. As for rooftop gardens – yes, it’s complicated to build, but when you see what’s possible (such as rooftop CSAs in the US), I want to dream.
  • Farm to table dinners: What’s better than eating a meal made from seasonal produce sourced from local farmers, expertly prepared to best highlight their clean, fresh flavours? Madison’s Grill is leading the charge on this, but I think there is a market for more intimate, community-oriented dinners. If it’s all about relationships, such experiences do more than simply expose diners to the exquisite products available close to home – they also bring those interested in supporting local farmers together.

What’s on your Edmonton food scene wish list?

Relaxed but Refined: Madison’s Grill

Did somebody say poutine?

That’s what I thought to myself when I saw the lunch menu being offered by Madison’s Grill during Downtown Dining Week. While I don’t normally have enough time to head into the core for a weekday lunch, a combination of some accrued overtime and sheer desire to try Chef Blair Lebsack’s upscale take on poutine drove me to make a reservation.

Though the restaurant was nearly empty when Mack and I arrived, it quickly filled up with diners from nearby office towers, many who seemed eager to partake in the special pre-fixe deals before us. In the elegant dining room, seated at the table clothed in white, the polished hardwood gleaming in the late morning sunlight, it was easy to just relax. And while I do enjoy the quick-serve options of my usual Chinatown lunches, the refined setting provided a nice change of pace.

I knew I had my heart set on the braised Spring Creek Ranch short rib poutine ($15) before I even entered the restaurant, but that’s not to say that the regular lunch menu did not have its own allure. From the Sylvan Star grilled cheese sandwich ($15) to the Irving’s pulled Berkshire pork sandwich ($16) and the grilled scallop and prawn risotto ($19), it was clear to both of us that this wouldn’t be our last daytime visit to Madison’s. Mack had to fight the urge to order a second helping of poutine, but eventually decided upon the prawn orzo ($15).

Before our food arrived, Blair was nice enough to chat with us for a bit. When I said I was surprised to find Sylvan Star cheese curds on the menu, he replied that the award-winning company only makes them a few times a year. For the occasion of Downtown Dining Week, Madison’s put in an order for 10 kg of curds! He also noted that the sauce Robert “gravy” was a reference not only to the French brown mustard sauce, but also to his Chef de Cuisine, Robert.

Our food was promptly delivered, and yes, I am happy to say that the poutine lived up to my high expectations. The squeaky cheese was divine, stringing errant fries together under a delicious gravy bath. And what of the short ribs? Off the bone came the meat, with just the right proportion of luxurious fat to enhance the tender richness of every bite.

Braised Spring Creek Ranch short rib poutine

Mack was equally enthralled with his prawn orzo (though he did slightly regret not ordering the poutine after a small taste). He thought the pasta had been cooked perfectly, and liked the combination of the prawn cream sauce and warm prawn salsa.

Prawn orzo

We were satisfied with our mains, and so declined the offer of a dessert menu from our server. Little did we know, Blair had a sweet surprise in store for us anyway, and brought over a complimentary trio of truffles. Beautifully plated, my favourite was the almond-coated round, with the flavour and texture of the toasted nuts pairing well with the dark chocolate. Mack preferred the orange-flavoured truffle.

Trio of truffles

Our lunch at Madison’s Grill was a breath of fresh air, and left us both relaxed and ready to return to work. It’s a safe bet we will be back soon.

Madison’s Grill (in the Union Bank Inn)
10053 Jasper Avenue
(780) 401-2222

Date with David Adjey @ NAIT

When Diane, the Communications Specialist at NAIT, told me about her plan for a “Date with David”, an intimate gathering of local food bloggers with their 2010 Hokanson Chef in Residence, I thought it was a great idea. Unlike last year’s media blitz, when I was lucky enough to get the opportunity to interview the 2009 Chef in Residence Rob Feenie, a group gathering would allow for more people to be a part of the excitement, and of course, to meet a well-known chef.

Thirteen bloggers, Diane, a cameraman (an unedited video of the evening will be posted here at a later date) and David Adjey assembled around a dining table set up in one of the teaching kitchens. Over the course of the hour, we were served a tasting menu prepared by NAIT’s Culinary Arts students, with all of the recipes taken from David’s latest cookbook, Deconstructing the Dish.

Dining with David

Bravo to the students for an excellent meal – I was expecting appetizer share plates, and instead, we were treated to five exquisitely prepared dishes. My favourite two courses were the halibut, perfectly cooked and served with a notable crab hash (the inclusion of plump kernels of corn was genius), and the beef tenderloin so flavourful and well prepared that it melted on my tongue like butter. Diane was also thoughtful enough to provide each of us with a copy of the night’s recipes.

Shrimp with spoon bread stuffing, kick-ass tartar sauce and wilted chicory

Arctic char with fennel braise and Yukon gold dumplings

Halibut with crab hash, saffron aioli and “angry” fritter garnish

Pork chop rubbed with “stir-fry” paste, baby bok choy and kumquat-garlic sauce

Beef tenderloin with red wine jus, lobster butter and a buttermilk onion ring

In between bites, David fielded questions from the bloggers and from Twitter users that had joined in on the conversation online. It was difficult to get a handle on Chef Adjey – between his facetious responses and constant references to money and women, I wanted David to cast aside the crude jokes for a moment to provide some serious answers.

David Adjey

Though his responses were wound through some pretty gratuitous anecdotes, we did end up with answers nonetheless – where he had dined in Edmonton so far (Hardware Grill, where he thought the portion sizes were too large), his thoughts on the locavore movement (he is in support of a diet sourced from nationwide ingredients, aka the “bullseye diet”, even though many of the ingredients he mentioned are imported), and his opinion on a lasting trend (varied portion sizes). David’s favourite chef is David Burke, he loved the food at Emeril Lagasse’s Delmonico in New Orleans, and though he respects Gordon Ramsay’s business sense, says that his on-screen demeanour is just the tip of his real self.

David said he might use his exposure in the future to help advocate for an increased pay scale for cooks (which is a very worthy battle to take on), as well as pushing the need for people to reduce their food intake. Between his new television show (which casts him as a restaurant consultant guru) and appearances as a keynote speaker, it remains to be seen if he utilizes his platform to promote such causes.

All dates with bloggers involve cameras, right?

In all, it was an interesting, if not enlightening evening. Thanks again to Diane for putting everything together, and to NAIT’s Culinary Arts program for being such a great host!

You can take a look at Mack’s photoset here, and watch for the full video of tonight to be uploaded here. Other recaps: Cathy at Walsh Cooks, Twyla at It’s a Weird, Wild and Wonderful Life, Bruce at Moments in Digital, Maki at In My Element, Chris at Eating is the Hard Part and Valerie at A Canadian Foodie.

Food Notes for March 15, 2010

March is just flying by, probably due to a combination of the fabulous weather and too many meetings. On to this week’s food notes:

  • Feel free to join in on the conversation between a few local food bloggers and Chef David Adjey on Tuesday – via Twitter, of course! See the teaser for the “Date with David”, March 16, from 6-7pm, here.
  • Mark your calendars (and get on the phone!): the next Farmers’ Market Dinner at Madison’s Grill is set for April 23. Mack and I attended a dinner back in January, and were absolutely blown away – you won’t be disappointed!
  • A reminder about Seedy Sunday, taking place at the Alberta Avenue Community Hall (9210 118 Avenue) on March 21, from 11am-4pm. It’s an opportunity to learn more about gardening (and to buy seeds for the upcoming season as well!).
  • To celebrate the 40th anniversary of Earth Day on April 22, deVine’s will be hosting a “Green Tasting”, featuring all organic wines.
  • Save the date: the Edmonton Federation of Community Leagues is planning for a city-wide festival on September 18.
  • Original Fare launched their second Dine Local to Win contest recently – to enter, simply visit 10 member restaurants, have the entry form stamped, and you will have a chance to win a $250 gift card.
  • Kelly wrote about the new Indian bistro set to open in the house formerly occupied by vegan cafe Way of Life/Mode de Vie (10203 – 116 St). Maybe this restaurant will host regular hours.
  • Liane posted about the closure of longtime restaurant Mirabelle last week.
  • Marianne over at Loosen Your Belt posted a very early review of Kabuki Sushi and Grill (8724 109 Street).
  • I’ve been wondering about the “coming soon” signs in the window of the new vodka bar/lounge on Jasper Avenue and 100 Street, so it was nice to read about what was happening with The Treasury.
  • An update about T2, Transcend’s forthcoming cafe in Garneau.
  • I have to say I don’t frequent butcher shops very often, but with posts like Twyla’s about a new butcher called Real Deal Meats in southwest Edmonton, I know it’s only a matter of time before they become a regular stop.
  • How about the ew factor: a New York chef made cheese out of his wife’s breast milk (really).
  • A second Starbucks will be gracing West Edmonton Mall, in the space formerly occupied by Timothy’s, overlooking the Ice Palace.

Coming Soon…

  • Flyers littering the ground around my work neighbourhood alerted me to the fact that Samurai Bistro (10003 107 Avenue, around the corner from Basil Leaf), is now open. I didn’t have a chance to peek my head in, but I am impressed that this little corner of Chinatown is cleaning up!

Samurai Bistro

Slow Food Edmonton’s Grilled Cheese Olympics: Recap

Combining comfort food with competition, Slow Food Edmonton’s first-ever Grilled Cheese Olympics took place this afternoon at Coast Wholesale Appliances. At stake: gift certificates for Paddy’s International Cheese Market, a grilled cheese sandwich at Madison’s Grill, Transcend Coffee, and the title of Grilled Cheese Olympic Champion.

Engraved Paderno spatula, in lieu of a medal

Coast Appliances turned out to be the perfect venue for the event – the space was bright and lofty, and equipped with some of the most beautiful ranges I have ever seen (all brand new, of course). Each of the competitors not only had top of the line stoves to work on, but the spectators also had plenty of room to watch.

Raymond Richmond and Nate Box work in front of the crowds

For a $2 entry fee (with all of the day’s proceeds going to send a young Albertan producer to Slow Food International’s Terra Madre), spectators were treated to samples of each of the thirteen sandwiches, which fell either in the “classic” or “contemporary” categories. Spectators were encouraged to vote for their favourite, which would earn a People’s Choice award.

Slow Food member Carrie distributes sandwiches to the hungry masses

While all sandwiches had to adhere to the Slow Food principles of “good, clean and fair”, competitors could choose to make either a “classic” sandwich (white bread, cheese, butter), or a “contemporary” sandwich (containing at least 60% cheese, and allowing for accompaniments). Some competitors did opt to enter both categories.

Ben Staley & Nathan Gour’s contemporary creation, made with goat cheese, brie, prosciutto, sundried tomatoes and served with a tomato compote (it won our People’s Choice votes)

The competition attracted a great mix of professional and amateur chefs – from Culina’s Cindy Lazarenko and Cyrus Shaoul from Kerstin’s Chocolates to Slow Food member Renita Falkenstern and two of Valerie’s Home Economics students from junior high school, it was obvious that everyone in the room loved food!

Cyrus means business

Renita presents her deep-fried grilled cheese sandwich

I didn’t envy the judges at all – besides having to sample and rate eighteen different sandwiches, they were pretty much grounded to the judges table for the entire competition. And lasting just over three hours, I know I felt exhausted, even with the freedom to move around to observe the prep work and cooking at the various stations.

Judges table (the Edmonton Journal’s Liane Faulder, Lux Steakhouse Executive Chef Tony Le, Fern Janzen of Paddy’s Cheese, and Madison’s Grill Executive Chef Blair Lebsack)

Each sandwich was introduced to the judges without the name of the competitor attached. They had to rate each sandwich for their presentation, taste, texture, style and “slowness” (if the product adhered to the principles of Slow Food).

Hard at work

During the lengthy judging process, I had a great time catching up with competitors, volunteers, and fellow spectators. It was a relaxing way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Food bloggers represent! (Chris, Eating is the Hard Part)

Before the results were announced, the judges noted that they were impressed by the creativity of the entries. I have to second that – everything from chocolate to Danish pickles found their way into the sandwiches, and though I thought Sylvan Star would be the main player today, I was glad to see a variety of cheeses used including goat cheese, mascarpone, ricotta and caraway havarti.

Valerie presenting her students’ sandwich

And the winners were:

  • People’s Choice Classic: Nate Box, with his Tree Stone Bakery brioche and Sylvan Star Gouda sandwich
  • People’s Choice Contemporary: Valerie Rodgers-Lugonja and her Home Economics students, with her smoked paprika bread, applewood smoked cheddar, mozzarella, Asian pear and cumin seed bacon spread sandwich
  • Judges Choice Classic: Jeff Johnson, with his homemade bread, emmental, sharp cheddar (both raw milk cheeses) and goose fat sandwich
  • Judges Choice Contemporary: Ben Staley and Nathan Gour (of North 53 Catering), with their goat cheese, brie, prosciutto and sundried tomato sandwich

Congratulations to all of the winners!

Thanks to Thea for organizing a great event!

You can take a look at Mack’s photo set here.

Caterer of Choice: Taste of India

A few weeks ago I started planning a retreat for our team, to take place at the peaceful Strathcona Wilderness Centre, situated just outside of Sherwood Park. As the SWC has an open policy when it comes to food, we had no limitations when it came to catering options. As it made the most geographic sense to choose a company based in Sherwood Park, after some research, we decided on Taste of India. Not only was their per person price reasonable, but before we made the final agreement, the owner of the establishment invited my coworker and I to sample their food – on the house (an $11.50 lunch buffet).

We planned our visit for a Friday afternoon, after viewing and finalizing the booking with the folks at the Wilderness Centre. The restaurant apparently used to be a combination Indian and Mexican eatery, but the latter half has since been divided and will reopen as a comedy club soon. Taste of India was bustling with patrons when we arrived, with a large number of them seeming to be regulars. The owner was a grand hostess, and seemed to be familiar with most of the customers – it made for a very comfortable, jovial atmosphere.

Interior (lovely display of bangles)

The array of dishes on the buffet looked promising, especially when we saw a number of the more popular trays being replenished on a regular basis. All of my favourites were there – butter chicken, mutter paneer, pakoras – and some dishes I was less familiar with – beef kofta being one of them. Though we skipped over the cold dishes for fear of not having enough room, a tossed hot dog salad seemed strangely out of place.

Buffet

Food, glorious food

The butter chicken was necessarily tender, coated with a richly addictive sauce at a spice level agreeable to my palate. The beef kofta, as it turned out, tasted remarkably similar to the Swedish meatballs at IKEA. A surprise turned out to be the mixed vegetables (which were to be included in our catering order), the peas and green beans still retaining their crispness in spite of being tossed with a mildly spicy sauce and forced to languish under heat lamps.

My plate

Service was also good, with our water glasses never reaching empty. And of course, having the meal comped was a nice gesture. Needless to say, the whole experience – the meal and the owner’s generosity – won us over.

Bell located at the exit – it was rung quite a few times during our visit!

The catered food was equally as good. All of the dishes arrived hot, and even with 35 hungry mouths to feed, some of our staff were even able to go back for seconds. The naan, in particular, was stellar, slightly charred in places, but distinctly chewy, perfect for scooping up sauce-drenched butter chicken and channa masala.

To end, just a few photos of the Strathcona Wilderness Centre – we were fortunate to have sunshine on Thursday, and I took advantage of the weather with a short lunch hour stroll. I’d like to return some time in the future to rent their snowshoes or cross country skis – it would be a great excuse to get away to the country again!

Trail

Ski tracks

Peace

Taste of India
6 Blackfoot Rd, Strathcona County
(780) 449-2794

Strathcona Wilderness Centre
52535 Range Road 212, Strathcona County
(780) 922-3939

Generous Portions: Viet Huong Noodle House

I’ve walked past Viet Huong Noodle House on 107 Avenue too many times to count, but never really had the desire to try it. Being just a stone’s throw away from my office, however, meant it was just a matter of time before I did.

I met up with Dickson for lunch there this week. First impressions were not great – between the turquoise linoleum floor and worn, mismatched furniture, it was clear the space needed a complete overhaul. The LCD television screen (streaming a Vietnamese music concert much too loudly) and fish tank full of radiant blood parrots did help brighten the space somewhat, but for the most part, the interior matched the sad state of exterior affairs.

The service was curt and brisk, but the food arrived promptly. Our dishes were ill-timed though, with our bowls of steaming pho arriving just moments after our appetizer was delivered. Also, after making a request for chopsticks, we were a bit taken aback when he grabbed two pairs out of a jar by the ends. Needless to say, some tea-disinfecting ensued.

The green onion cake was a good-sized dish, especially given the $3.95 price. Satisfyingly crispy, they weren’t nearly salty enough for me, but I’m finding that’s typical for my palate.

Green Onion Cakes

The pho, size-wise, reminded me a lot of Ninh Kieu – it seemed like a never-ending bowl! Moreover, both our servings included an extremely generous amount of beef, bucking the standard of exaggerating portion amounts with a thick wicket of rice noodles. The broth was good, not great (and dusted with just a wee bit of cilantro), but was on par with many other such restaurants in the city.

Rice Noodle Soup with Medium Beef and Beef Brisket ($7.50)

Beef Noodle Soup with Combination Beef ($7.95)

Given Viet Huong’s proximity to my office, there’s a good chance I’d return if the weather was a deterrent to the lengthier trek to Chinatown’s Pho Tau Bay. But as spring is just around the corner, I’d have to say brisk lunch hour walks are in my immediate future.

Viet Huong Noodle House
10117 107 Avenue
(780) 424-9910
Tuesday – Saturday 10am-9pm, Sunday 10am-7pm, closed Mondays

Food Notes for March 8, 2010

I’m sure I’m jinxing it just by typing out the sentence, but I am loving this pseudo-spring weather! And even better than the sunshine and warm temperatures, I am glad to see many of the lake-sized puddles along my daily walk have since disappeared. Get out an enjoy it while you can! On to this week’s food notes: