Author: Sharon Yeo

Sharon is an Edmonton-based blogger who has been writing about food since 2006.

Good Eats in Banff: The Banff Centre, Saltlik, Evelyn’s and The Bison

We were fortunate to have the opportunity to spend last weekend in Banff, the result of an impromptu request for Mack to speak at the Canadian Arts Summit. Hosted at the beautiful Banff Centre this year, it was easy to see how rejuvenating the location itself could be for the conference delegates.

The Banff Centre

While making our way to the Professional Development Centre, we stumbled upon two deer. Though I shouldn’t be surprised that wildlife in the area no longer flinch at the sign of humans, we were still amazed at their nonchalance in spite of our close proximity.

 

On Saturday evening, we joined Ken and his wife Amy at the Dining Room in Donald Cameron Hall, a gorgeous space lined with windows that allowed for a spectacular view. Being that the event was a gathering of arts and culture administrators and artists, we even spotted a Canadian celebrity – Paul Gross of Due South fame.

The banquet dinner was a little better than most large events I’ve attended, though to be fair, this function only saw about 6o or so guests served. My favourite part of the meal was hands down the sweet potato crisps atop the sablefish main – an ingenious idea, executed perfectly!

Spinach salad with pomegranate dressing

Sablefish with sweet potato crisps and vegetables

Raspberry crème brulee and berries

After the meal, we joined Ken and Amy at Saltlik for a drink and in Ken’s opinion, the world’s best calamari. With such hype and high expectations, Mack and I were sure the wok-fired calamari wouldn’t live up to it all, but it did. Simply prepared, with a touch-light batter, tossed with sea salt, pepper, poblanos and charred serranos, they were surprisingly addictive.

Wok-fired calamari from Saltlik

The next morning, while Mack was at the conference, I trekked the roadside path to downtown Banff, about a half hour walk. Though I passed a few people on the way down, I mostly had the route to myself, not a sound to be heard save for the whistle of the wind through the trees.

The Fairmont Banff Springs hotel in the distance

I took a break at Evelyn’s Again, one of the three incarnations of the popular Evelyn’s Coffee Bar in town (it looks like another is in the works on Banff Avenue). While the coffee ($1.75 for a small) was nothing to complain about, the cookie ($2.50) was as hard as a rock – I was left wondering how long it had been sitting in the display case.

Coffee and (never again) cookie at Evelyn’s Again

After some satisfying time with a book, I did some window shopping. I passed by the cutest burger car, and a potential spot for lunch on a future visit – Shakes, a cafe that serves Bubble Tea, Nathan’s Famous Hot Dogs and Vietnamese subs – what versatility!

The Eddie burger Bug

Before departing Banff, Mack met up with me for lunch at The Bison, as I had been eager to try some of their more casual fare in the lounge. It was nearly a full house downstairs, and as a result, took the staff several minutes before acknowledging our presence. Our eventual server apologized for the wait, and after that, our experience was a smooth ride.

Even though the cheese and charcuterie board was incredibly tempting, we decided to split two hot entrees, with the hopes they would warm me up from my time outside. The bison chili ($9.95) was smaller than we anticipated, but great all the same – the meat had been finely ground and nicely seasoned, and even without intense heat, had great flavour. I only wished it had been served to us a touch warmer.

Bison chili with Sylvan Star cayenne gouda (the bread ‘n’ butter was mighty tasty too)

The baked mini potato skins, with a slice of venison pepperoni, Sylvan Star cayenne gouda and creme fraiche, were wonderful. Satisfyingly crispy on the outside, but perfectly cooked on the inside, the combination of the potato, meat and melted cheese was incredibly comforting, and was exactly what I needed at that moment.

Baked mini potato skins

Based on our other experience, I’d have to say I prefer the casual side of The Bison, if not only because I prefer the lounge menu and its casual atmosphere.

Thanks again for a great weekend, Banff – I’ll be back soon!

Saltlik
221 Bear Street, Banff, AB
(403) 762-2467

Evelyn’s Again (2 other locations)
119 Banff Avenue, Banff, AB
(403) 760-2907

The Bison
208 Bear Street, Banff, AB
(403) 762-5550

Chocolate + Bacon: Epiphanie Chocolate

As we walked past several storefronts to Myhre’s Deli, we noticed Epiphanie Chocolates (did I mention that the entire little block, with its small corner grocer, a décor shop, and of course, a chocolatier, is utterly charming?).

Never having been able to resist chocolates, we stepped into the small store, and found that its simple but elegant décor (complete with a window seat peppered with brightly coloured cushions) reminded us somewhat of Bling. It turned out the shop’s chocolatier, Debra Fleck, is originally from Edmonton, having opened the business in November with her husband John.

Interior of Epiphanie, with John Fleck in the background

Their focus is on truffles, although other products (such as pop-rock filled guitar moulds, drinking chocolate, and a selection of single-origin vanillas and cocoa powders) can be found on the shelves. The display case held nearly two-dozen varieties, some of them brilliantly decorated in bright, tropical colour coatings or adorned with miniature designs. At $2 each, the prices are comparable with Kerstin’s Chocolates and Sweet Lollapalooza in Edmonton. John offered us a few samples – ginger, earl grey and strawberry, and we found the latter to be our favourite, with a smooth, not overwhelmingly sweet centre, still containing crunchy strawberry seeds.

We decided to zero in on one of their feature items, priced at $2.31 each – the double-smoked bacon truffle. It was covered in a Calgary Herald article just a few weeks ago, along the same lines of an Edmonton bacon-centric article that appeared in the Journal in February. Mack and I were fortunate to have tried Kerstin’s chocolate-covered Berkshire pork bacon last year, so the flavour combination wasn’t new to us. Epiphanie’s version involves double-smoked bacon from Valbella and Davao, a dark milk chocolate from the Philippines. I have to say I loved the little pink pig atop the truffle.

Double-smoked bacon truffles

Just like with Kerstin’s concoction, however, in spite of the salty-sweet interaction, the chewy, almost-crunchy texture of the bacon and the velvety chocolate did not make for a pleasing match, at least for us. It’s definitely worth a try (especially because it is all the rage right now), but the next time I’m at Epiphanie, I think the strawberry truffle will be my treat of choice.

Epiphanie Chocolates
1417 11 Street SW, Calgary, AB
(403) 370-4592
Monday- Saturday 10am-6pm

Montreal Smoked Heaven: Myhre’s Deli

On Friday, Mack was asked by fellow prominent Edmonton Next Gen-er Ken Bautista to join him on a social media panel at the Canadian Arts Summit, being held this year at The Banff Centre. With accommodations and travel taken care of, and no plans tying him to Edmonton for the weekend, how could he say no? I jumped right on board, eager for the opportunity to get away, and we were off.

We left on Saturday afternoon, and planned to stop somewhere in Calgary for lunch. The BlackBerry came in handy to look up hours of operation, and after some site surfing, we chose Myhre’s Deli (formerly The Palace of Eats), situated in the Beltline District. Galaxie Diner next door (operated by the same folks) is one of our favourite diners in Calgary, with their heaping portions, lively atmosphere and open kitchen. While waiting in line for a seat at Galaxie, we had some time to peer in the windows of the deli, which specialized in Montreal smoked meat sandwiches. It looked like something we had to come back to try eventually.

Myhre’s Deli

Myhre’s Deli is a small but warm restaurant, lined with comfortable, unpretentious wooden furniture, a retro-inspired wall menu, and furnished with an antique cash register. It was empty save for one table when we arrived, and without a soundtrack overhead, was a tad too quiet for my taste – almost completely opposite of our experience at Galaxie Diner.

In any case, the service was quick – we were presented with our order of 6 oz. regular ($10) and 8 oz. full ($12) Montreal smoked meat sandwiches nearly right away, slathered with our choice of a half dozen mustards. Contained in the same basket were tiny paper cups of lightly-dressed coleslaw and BBQ chips – it made for a nice presentation.

Our order

When we picked up the sandwich half, we found it to be absolutely stacked with sliced meat (from Quebec Smoked Meats). It was warm and so juicy that a single bite resulted in a cascade of moisture. The house blend mustard had quite an unexpected kick to it, but the refreshing coleslaw helped to calm down my palate. My only issue with the sandwich was the pick-out-of-your-teeth softness of the bread, though Mack thought that was chosen specifically to contrast the chewy texture of the meat.

A regular sandwich

With fast, efficient service and tasty sandwiches, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Myhre’s Deli. I just hope they crank up the music next time!

Myhre’s Deli
1411 11th St. SW, Calgary, AB
(403) 244-6602
Open daily 11am-4pm

Roxy Theatre: “Hey Ladies!”

We really enjoyed ourselves at the first Hey Ladies! we attended back in June, but for reasons to do with timing (and poor planning), hadn’t yet gone a second time…until Friday.

As per our previous experience, you could count on one hand the number of men in the audience not connected to the show in some way. Mack felt a bit uncomfortable, squirming in his chair any time the possibility of having to go up on stage came about, but as he loves Leona Brausen (she stole the show with her peahen call) and Davina Stewart as much as I do, it was an evening worth the potential stage fright factor.

Hey Ladies! is billed as “infotainment”, and I could not think of a better name for it. A variety show not unlike Oh Susannah for women, Hey Ladies! is a daytime talk show without network censors (where else would you find an audience Q & A box dressed in the form of a vagina?). Crude humour aside (the “aspic” joke got really old, really fast), the mix of light-hearted segments, from Michael Berard’s homemade Bump It and backcombing how-to, to musical interludes from Red Shag Carpet, to a “What is it?” bit featuring an oddly-shaped egg peeler, provided for an entertaining show.

Moreover, I think it’s great that Hey Ladies! promotes local talent and businesses. I can only think of the traffic to Kunitz Shoes that will arise after the three hosts raved about the selection and service at the boutique (it was also quite the Oprah-giveaway movement when Kunitz Shoes announced they were giving each audience member a luggage tag). Being able to sample locally-made liquor is also great (even in spite of the anchovy-packed lobby at intermission), and on this instance, Amber’s Brewing Company treated us to a cinnamon-cardamom beer, brewed specifically for New Asian Village.

Hey Ladies! is next up on April 23, and finishes up their season on May 21. Get your tickets soon – the shows sell out every time.

Food Notes for March 29, 2010

It’s a little ironic that the weekend I was finally inspired to write about the food I ate in Banff and Canmore five months ago also happened to be the weekend where Mack and I ended up in Banff again. So – stay tuned for more Banff eats. On to this week’s food notes:

  • Sorrentino’s kicks off their 19th annual Garlic Festival on April 1, and features black garlic this year. Funds raised from support a prostate health campaign.
  • Tickets for this year’s Indulgence: a Canadian Epic of Food and Wine, go on sale after March 30 April 30. Call the Junior League of Edmonton at 780-433-9739. Possibly the best $50 you’ll ever spend on food and wine in Edmonton!
  • On April 15, Trinity United Church (8810 Meadowlark Road) will be hosting a food, wine and beer tasting that showcases locally-owned food businesses and Albertan and Canadian-produced products (including Leva, The Dish, Alley Kat and en Sante). They will also be screening the Vancouver produced documentary, Tableland. Tickets are $30 (only sold in advance), and all proceeds go to support the Canadian Food Grains Bank. Contact Debbie Hubbard for tickets by e-mail or phone 780-458-9286.
  • Kerstin’s Chocolates is hosting another Easter egg hunt for chocolate prizes, but this time,you’ll have to look for “four digital eggs inside four photographs from France recently posted to our blog. Find all of these digital Easter eggs by clicking on the pictures and looking closely at the larger versions of each photo, then figure what the letters on the eggs spell (in French!).” Claim your prize between March 30 and April 3, while supplies last.
  • Looking for a grocery delivery service that specializes in local food? The Good Food Box is onto it’s second year, and is currently accepting customers for delivery to start in April.
  • If you’re looking for something with a little less commitment, Locavoria is a good option. I’ve been on their mailing list for quite a while, and they’ve expanded their product line considerably. You have the option of only ordering what you want, so for smaller households, or for those just looking to slowly shift their dollars, it’s worth exploring. E-mail Locavoria here.
  • Liane wrote that the Bistro Praha that was due to open this spring in one of the Icon Towers will be delayed – it’s almost expected that restaurants won’t open on time, so it’s not really a surprise.
  • On the topic of closures: The Lingnan is closed for renovations from March 29 to April 29. You’ll have to get your Amy’s chicken fix at lunch!
  • Looks like Calgary is following in the footsteps of Edmonton’s successful Grilled Cheese Olympics a few weeks back, with Janice Beaton kicking off her own competition.
  • Oh yes, there is another food blog in Edmonton – welcome Lillian, author of Beyond Umami to the fray (Lillian was at the Foodie Meetup earlier this month).
  • Chris blogged about his “5 bagel throwdown” – that’s an awful lot of chewing!
  • Though I was sceptical (and still am, to some degree) of Hellmann’s Eat Real, Eat Local campaign that they launched last year, it looks like they are continuing to take steps for the better – they announced two weeks ago that their 1/2 the fat mayonnaise dressing will be made with Canadian free-run eggs.
  • It’s probably my love of West Wing that makes me so delighted to read acronyms like FLOTUS being thrown around like everyday language, but I’m loving Eater’s chronicling of the First Lady’s food tour of NY.
  • Speaking of New York, have you checked out NBC NY’s new food website, Feast? It’s nicely laid out, with some pretty good content to boot (an interview with Thomas Keller here and here), but what’s neat on first glance to me is Feast Rank: an algorithm that “will evolve to ensure that it represents accurately and distinctly the landscape of the web and the way people use their digital spaces to access and consume restaurant information.” Grand intensions, no?
  • Fascinated, in a train wreck kind of way about competitive eating contests? You’re not alone – it’s a rising “sport” in America.
  • Yes, Julia Child is getting another book deal: “Houghton Mifflin Harcourt will publish As Always Julia, a book of letters between Julia Child and her agent Avis DeVoto, this fall.”
  • Has anyone been watching Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution? I only managed to catch the first episode so far, but it looks like an entertaining, if not eye-opening program. If you can’t get enough of Jamie, watch his inspiring TED talk.
  • Watch for another Good Earth Cafe in the next couple of weeks to open up in Edmonton City Centre.

 

Good Earth Cafe

  • I poked my head inside the new Sweeties Cafe on Rice Howard Way (10141 100A Street) and it looks promising, with cases of sweets and comfortable leather chairs to enjoy an afternoon coffee. I’ll have to come back to check it out on a different day.

 

Sweeties Cafe

  • On our way back to Edmonton, we stopped at Crate and Barrel, which I couldn’t get enough of when we were in New York a few years back. Apparently, they’re talking about opening one in Edmonton, but the clerk wasn’t able to say when or where. I could spend a lot of money in their kitchen wares section, or at least, a lot of time, marvelling over the walls of single-use gadgets. My favourite:

 

An individual gravy boat, too cute!

  • Crate and Barrel is located in Southcentre Mall, Calgary’s newest and swankiest shopping centre. Not only do they have beautiful water features and a huge food court equipped with LCDs and pretty light fixtures, but they also have a sports viewing area, complete with comfy chairs (with cupholders!).

At Southcentre Mall

For the Love of Sandwiches: Wild Flour Bakery and Valbella Gourmet Foods

Our brief escape to the Rockies last October also involved less extravagant meals than The Bison. First up: Wild Flour Bakery, a casual café after my own heart – bright and cheery, and filled with the alluring aroma of fresh bread, it looked great at first glance. Mack had a not-so-positive experience there in the past, but was eager to see if they could make amends this time.

Their lunch menu consisted primarily of sandwiches, served on fresh house-made bread. Mack’s choice of the aged cheddar sandwich was unimpressive – he remarked that he loved the cheese and the bread, but he was expecting more from the combination. And though I enjoyed my sandwich, I thought the melted Swiss overwhelmed the delicate Valebella prosciutto.

Aged Cheddar Sandwich

 Swiss and Prosciutto Sandwich

We fared better with our choice of hot beverages. My London Fog (something I don’t have often, but the Earl Grey-milk mixture sounded good on a chilly afternoon) was good, and Mack’s Mexican hot chocolate was appropriately spiced.

Latte art!

Something we didn’t get a chance to order was dessert (though the chocolate torte looked mighty tempting) – so perhaps our next visit will concentrate only on sweets.

On the way back to Edmonton, we stopped in Canmore for a bite to eat at Valbella Gourmet Foods. I am familiar with them primarily through their bacon and sausages sold through Sunterra, but was curious to see their whole range of products.

The deli counter at Valbella

If we only had a cooler, I would have definitely stocked up

As for the small cafe that served only a handful of items, it was a revolving door of customers. They seemed to have their share of regulars from nearby construction or trades sites, very similar to the usual lunchtime crowd at The Italian Bakery or Handy Bakery. So – we ordered what everyone else ordered – the special that featured a few different types of meat.

Sandwich counter

While I typically prefer my sandwiches toasted or warmed in some way, the fresh bread, still crisp, made up for this somewhat. And the assortment of meat was a good opportunity to try a bit of everything.

Valbella special sandwich

If you’re passing through Canmore (with a cooler!) be sure to stop by for some top-quality meats. While the sandwich was good – the meat case is where it’s at.

Wild Flour Bakery
211 Bear Street, Banff, AB
(403) 760-5074
Open everyday from 8am-5pm

Valbella Gourmet Foods
104 Elk Run Boulevard, Canmore, AB
(403) 678-4109
Monday-Friday 8am-6pm, Saturday 9am-5pm, closed Sundays

Upscale Comfort: The Bison

While I start out with good intentions to post about eating experiences soon after they happen, sometimes I fail. Our weekend getaway to the mountains last October was one such instance. So – mostly to help maintain my own food memory, here are a few recaps of what we ate.

Ever since my introduction to The Bison by way of Andree’s post, I have been intrigued about their sustainable approach to food. When Mack asked me for restaurant recommendations for his trip to Banff two years ago, the Bison was at the top of my list. His enjoyable visit further heightened my desire to experience it myself.

We arrived a little early for our 7:30pm reservation, and with our table not yet ready, decided to relax with some wine in the lounge downstairs. It turned out we just missed their happy hour promotion on wine (40% off bottles, from 4-7pm), but we did think it was neat that patrons were allowed to bring the discounted bottle purchased in the lounge with them into the formal dining room upstairs.

Wine while waiting

I was surprised to see that the lounge (which has been open since February 2009) had a different menu than the dining room. With savoury cheese fondues and cheese and charcuterie plates, we had to resist the temptation to simply stay on in the lounge. More than variety though, the more casual lounge fare also enables the chef to exhibit his versatility in the kitchen – for example, whole pigs are purchased and used at The Bison, and all charcuterie served is house-made.

View from the bar

We eventually made our way upstairs, into a dimly-lit room that was darkened further as our evening progressed. I loved many things about the space, including the polished concrete floor and the warm furniture, while the open kitchen was Mack’s favourite element. However, as all of the servers notably wore denim, I wasn’t sure what the intended atmosphere was – the casual dress seemed to clash with the décor.

Tone confusion notwithstanding, everything else was great. I’ve never seen a list of suppliers as detailed, three pages with a paragraph devoted to each of the local farms who provide The Bison with their produce and proteins. Reading about the farmers really helps the diner connect with the restaurant in a larger context, and recognize all of the people involved in bringing the meal to the table.

Being a sucker for French onion soup meant I wouldn’t consider anything else as an appetizer once I saw the restaurant’s bison version on the menu. Mack’s fondness of carnival food was appeased with Bison’s gourmet corn dogs, made with lamb. For my entrée, I continued the theme of ordering namesake dishes and selected the caramelized onion, smoked bison, edamame and fresh mozzarella pizza (which is what Mack ordered on his previous visit), and Mack decided on beef.

Needless to say, Mack loved his appetizer. If I had wanted more than a bite of the tender lamb lightly battered just so, I’m sure I would have had to pry it out of his hands. As for my French onion soup, I think it should have been listed with a warning sign next to it – the huge serving was so rich that I struggled to finish it, to the point where I barely touched my entrée.

Lamb corn dogs!

Bison onion soup

Mack’s steak was perfectly cooked, served with a generous amount of goat cheese, but we both wondered at the use of asparagus out of season. The pizza was also great – I loved the novelty of edamame, and the salty bite of the cured bison.

Mack’s steak (for the life of us, we can’t remember what cut)

Caramelized onion, smoked bison, edamame, fresh mozzarella pizza

Service was good – we were never left wanting for anything, and felt well taken care of in the hands of our competent server. After our experience, a stop at The Bison (in particular, the lounge!) will be a necessity the next time we visit Banff.

The Bison
208 Bear Street
(403) 762-5550

Mayfield Dinner Theatre: “Dial ‘M’ for Murder”

For Christmas last year, Mack, Thom and I gave Grandma Male a ticket to an upcoming show at the Mayfield Dinner Theatre. None of us had been before, but with our collective love of theatre and food, we thought it would be something fun to experience together for the first time.

Mayfield Dinner Theatre

The show we agreed on was Dial ‘M’ for Murder, a play made famous by Alfred Hitchcock, that happened to star two of my favourite Teatro la Quindicina actors – Jeff Haslam and Mark Meer. Tickets ranged from $55.99 to $79.99, which seemed pricey to me at the outset, but factoring in the convenience of dinner and entertainment in the same venue took the edge off somewhat. As I hadn’t been to the theatre before, I didn’t have any idea what constituted a good seat. I relied extensively on the opinion of the ticket agent, and thankfully, she steered us to a pretty good seat.

Our view of the stage, from a raised booth

When I purchased the tickets, I was told that the buffet dinner would be served from 6-8pm. We arrived around 6:30 to an already bustling venue. Looking around the room (and seeing the ads for retirement communities, mobility aids, and dentures in the playbill) it was evident that the crowd skewed older – Mack commented that the Mayfield might consider further marketing initiatives to attract a more diverse audience.

After depositing our coats and bags at our comfortable booth angled just right of the stage, we headed to the separate buffet room, connected to the theatre via a short hallway. Nearly three dozen cold starters and hot entrees awaited us, in addition to the usual assortment of cakes, squares and fruit at the dessert bar. We joined the line-up, eager to fill up our first of several plates.

Like most buffets, the food was hit and miss. Recommended dishes included the smoked Alberta whitefish, the roasted chicken in cream sauce and sautéed beef tenderloin and shitake mushrooms. To avoid: sushi, the prime rib (served cold), and the flavourless manicotti.

My plate

We seemed to fare better on dessert as a whole, each of us enjoying our respective choice of sweets. Mack especially liked the carrot cake, and my black forest torte was rich, but thankfully restrained in terms of sugar content.

Mack and Thom hit up the dessert bar

Our early arrival ensured we had plenty of time to enjoy our food, without feeling rushed. When they announced that the buffet would be closing in fifteen minutes we had already had our fair share. Although the food was self-serve, a server did approach our table to ask if we wanted any drinks other than water and coffee. Also, roving staff were great at promptly picking up empty dishes and refilling glasses – even though it was our first time, it was clear the Mayfield was a well-oiled machine.

As for the other half of the evening, I was a bit disappointed with the show, which follows a jealous husband as he blackmails an old college classmate into killing his wife. While I’ve never seen the Hitchcock version, I expected a lot more from this production and from the actors. I thought the use of ominous music was unnecessary and overdone, and cheapened the on-stage tension tangible in some scenes. Also, while Jeff Haslam (playing the scheming husband Tony Wendice) was somewhat successful at walking the fine line between drama and comedy, John Wright (in the role of Inspector Hubbard) was less so, and to me, upended the serious tone of the play. More than anything, I found myself unable (or unwilling) to sympathize with any of the characters, so in the end, the show was a lost cause for me.

With this particular show, and the at par meal, Mack and I both agreed that we didn’t see the value of our $69.99 ticket. Besides the convenience of a one-stop dinner and show, the alternatives that we could think of (dinner at Origin India or Packrat Louie and show at the Varscona or Catalyst Theatres) would be similar in price, but almost guaranteed to be of better quality. While I wouldn’t rule out a visit in the future, the sway of the production would have to be pretty great to get me through the door again.

Of course, with any night out, the company plays a factor. And on that night at least, we found some solace at our table.

Grandma Male and Thom

Mack and me

Mayfield Dinner Theatre (at the Mayfield Inn & Suites)
16615 109 Avenue
Ticket office: (780) 483-4051
Dial ‘M’ for Murder runs until April 11, 2010

Chinatown Resurgence: Samurai Bistro

I can usually find a pretty good excuse to try out new restaurants. On Monday, that excuse was the Mayor’s Celebration of the Arts. We’ve been attending the annual arts awards and recognition evening for three years (sadly, there was no on-stage closing dance number this time), and needed to have a pre-show meal. Samurai Bistro, open just two weeks, fit the bill perfectly.

I remember visiting Chinatown practically every weekend when I was younger, a stop for Asian groceries a necessary errand. At the time, the empty storefronts were fewer, and the traffic was heavier – mainstream grocery stores at the time didn’t carry as diverse an aisle of ethnic products, and T & T Supermarket didn’t exist. Even though Samurai Bistro and Basil Leaf make up what I would consider the western edge of Chinatown, it’s still nice to see some new development and revamped buildings anywhere in Chinatown.

Samurai Bistro is a tiny 30-seater restaurant, focusing on ramen and noodle bowls. The staff, who were friendly and attentive, did say that their dozen-item menu would be expanded in the next week, and would include daily seafood features. They also seemed sincere in their request for feedback after our meal, stating that they were a new business looking for any ways they could improve – it’s not something I’ve experienced a lot of, and though I didn’t have anything constructive to say, was a welcome inquiry.

The long and narrow restaurant was equipped with a refreshing open kitchen, lined with seats so patrons have the option of watching their food be prepared. I’m sure if the restaurant was packed, it would create quite the lively atmosphere. I loved the granite tables and the high-backed chairs, while Mack found the mounted wall “fireplace” to be particularly amusing. I thought the flat screen televisions, tuned to Food Network and ESPN, were two signs that we were in the right place.

Samurai Bistro interior

We underestimated our appetites that night, and opted to order the gyoza (7 for $7) to start. For our mains, I decided on the chicken and spicy herb ($9) bowl, and Mack chose the shrimp, scallop and seafood ($11) bowl. The restaurant had run out of ramen (brought in from Vancouver), so udon was our only option.

Order by photo!

The gyoza were fantastic – crispy and light on the outside, they were filled with just the right amount of pork and crispy cabbage. Definitely a keeper.

Gyoza, beautifully presented

As for our udon bowls, they were never-ending vessels, and ultimately defeated both of us. What first struck both of us was their generosity with seafood – Mack’s was filled to the brim with plump shrimp, scallops and calamari rings, in addition to crab legs. My accompanying chicken wasgood (the spicy coating making the difference), but seafood was definitely the winner here. The broth was all right, but my frequent pho ventures left me wanting for more flavour depth, which I realize is an unfair comparison.

Shrimp, Scallop and Seafood Bowl

 Chicken and Spicy Herb Bowl

Mack, a self-described “unstoppable crab-eating force”

With their responsive service and generous portions, I wouldn’t hesitate to return in the future. I hope others do the same, and perhaps in the process, help Chinatown regain some of its former glory.

Samurai Bistro
10632 100 Street
(780) 756-0834
Monday-Wednesday 11am-9pm, Thursday 11am-10pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-11pm, Sunday 11am-6pm

Culinary Q & A with Sarah Clarke

Occupation: Officially I’m the Business Planning Manager for Alberta Justice. Unofficially I bake cakes and cupcakes.

What did you eat today?

French toast and a latte for breakfast, cheese quesadilla for lunch and grilled chicken with spinach/mozzarella ravioli for dinner.

What do you never eat?

Fruit and fresh tomatoes. Seriously, no fruit! I’ll eat raisins but not grapes and I’ll  eat banana bread but not a banana! My mom told me I’d get scurvy not eating fruit but I’ve made it this far so I think I’m in the clear!

What is your personal specialty?

My chocolate cupcakes with vanilla buttercream icing.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

Eggs, butter and milk (gotta be ready to bake in a blink of an eye!)

What is your weekday meal standby?

If time is really limited, it’d be grilled cheese and soup otherwise I like making a stir fry or curry over rice.

What is your favourite kitchen item?

I love my Kitchen Aid mixer!

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Tough question. My mom’s breaded chicken, a baked potato with butter and roasted corn on the cob followed by a slice of my chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream. Basic, clean, but absolutely delicious food!

Where do you eat out most frequently?

I don’t think I play favourites…I cater to my moods more often than frequent one restaurant. But a few of my favourites are OPM, Mikado, and New Asian Village.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

My favourite dish is at the Cactus Club in WEM. I love their butternut squash ravioli with scallops and fried sage leaves!!! Making myself hungry…

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I’d like to go to Thailand and try some authentic green curry…and of course ride an elephant (maybe not at the same time though)!

Sarah blogs at Thoughts about Things and Cake Sarah Sera.