A Tale of Two Suppers: JAROblue & Tubby Dog

Saturday was reminiscent of our two meal extravaganza last spring that saw us eating two dinners in one night: first in the sophisticated wine and tapas bar TZiN followed by supper at the eternally comfortable greasy spoon Route 99 Diner.

We started our evening at JAROblue (1314 17 Avenue SW), a tapas and lounge often recommended by Chowhounders. Seductively dark, with a cool, trendy vibe, Mack and I felt a bit out of our element. Our sever quickly changed that – patient and open to questions, he was extremely attentive at the start of our meal. I asked for wine recommendations, and based on his suggestion, decided on the 2006 Dr. Pauley-Bergweiler Riesling ($9). It was lovely – sweet and fruity, it would’ve probably been better paired with dessert, but my personal preference is always “Kool Aid” (Mack’s words) with dinner.

Menu and place setting

Tapas pricepoints were $8, $13, and $15. From Andree Lau’s post on JAROblue, I knew I wanted to try the Duck Confit & Risotto Croquette ($13). The Angus Mini Steak Sandwiches with Caramelized Onions ($15) were my second pick, and for reasons involving illusions of heath and his love of the vegetable, Mack chose the Grilled Asparagus served with an Onion, Garlic & Olive Oil ($8).

While we waited for our food, we noted the great server-to-patron ratio maintained by the restaurant, and also grew to respect our very competent hostess who not only took care of the seating, but also water and bussing duties.

When she brought us our first two dishes, her introduction of them (and suggestions on how we should eat them) were a nice verbal accompaniment to a beautiful visual display. Set on a long rectangular plate, the croquettes were almost too cute to eat. Crispy and creamy, they would make a fantastic hors d’oeuvre at a party (perhaps minus the pineapple chutney, which was a tad spicy for my taste). The steak sandwiches were even better – expertly seared and perfectly prepared, Mack and I both wished we could have a full-size steak that tasted like that. The asparagus were fresh, and thus sweet, their natural flavour enhanced with a smoky infusion. The garnish of onions had had their bite cooked out of them, and rivalled the asparagus with their sweetness.

Duck Confit and Steak Sandwiches

Grilled Asparagus

Great for sharing with friends, JAROblue is undoubtedly pricey, but worth a splurge for their creative take on tapas.

Our appetites successfully stimulated, we walked a few blocks east to Tubby Dog (1022 17 Avenue SW). At this point, I can’t remember where I first heard about this late night institution, but I can safely say I am now well acquainted with their unorthodox hot dog toppings.

Tubby Dog!

Walking in, there is no doubt that their no-frills decor signals a single focus on food alone. Two giant menus – one on the door and another behind the order counter advertise the creativity behind Tubby Dog. From the intriguing Sumo Dog (with Japanese mayo, wasabi, pickled ginger, and lightly toasted sesame seeds) to Sherm’s Ultimate Gripper (a dog wrapped in bacon, fried, then topped with ham, homemade chili, cheese, mustard, bacon, hot peppers, onions and a fried egg), we knew we were in for a treat probably not meant for the sober. I couldn’t help but think this was the Calgary equivalent to Amsterdam’s waffle and fry joints.

Interior

Hours of operation

At any rate, Mack opted for the A-Bomb ($5.75), with cheese, bacon, mayo, mustard, ketchup and potato chips, which the server said was one of the two most popular dogs (the other being the Gripper). Without hesitation, I chose the Cap’ns Dog ($5.75), with peanut butter, jelly, and yes, Captain Crunch cereal (I have to think this combination had to have originated as a drunken college bet of some sort).

A few minutes later, to the chime of a reception bell, our order was up. It was a sight to see – our dogs were as excessive as the tapas at JAROblue were dainty. As we sat agape at the task before us, three women walked by the storefront window, and after glancing at the menu on the door, wondered allowed who would eat such things. Then they looked up and saw us.

A-Bomb

Cap’ns Dog

I was a bit daunted by the Captain Crunch (the morsels didn’t adhere very well to the PB & J), but in the end, I’d say it satisfied the peanut butter lover in me – I couldn’t really taste the jam or the cereal.

Finished!

I’m sure many people have eaten much more offbeat food combinations, but Tubby Dog, in its utilization of a midway favorite as a vehicle for the unexpected, makes for an interesting and fun dining experience.

A European Lair: Caffè Artigiano

While Mack was occupied at BarCampCalgary, I played tourist and had lunch at Caffè Artigiano (Unit 100, Centrum Place, 332 6 Avenue SW). A west coast import that had coffee aficionado John Manzo, among others, excited about its first location outside of metro Vancouver, I wanted to see for myself what all the hype was about.

Occupying a rather large storefront in an office tower, the high ceilinged space resembles a European lair more than a typical café at first glance. A pedway positioned above Caffè Artigiano and its neighbours prevented much natural light from coming through – but perhaps the designers preferred it that way – the dark furniture and earth toned walls absorbed what sunlight did trickle through.

Peering into the cooler that contained an assortment of premade sandwiches, wraps and treats, I decided upon the Chicken and Brie Panino ($8.59) for my main course. A Spanish Latte ($3.59), which the clerk explained to me was a latte with a bit of condensed milk added, completed my meal.

I sat down at a large table fit for a library to await my food and drink. Lucky for me, Caffè Artigiano subscribes to a number of papers (including my favorite, The Globe & Mail), and like a library, affixes each edition onto a large wooden rod.

A few minutes later, my drink was called. Beautifully presented with an artful rosetta design, I almost didn’t want to take the first sip. I did, of course, and found that the latte walked the fine line between the jolt of a strong espresso and the creamy smoothness of milk, accented as a whole with just a hint of sweetness.

My panino, served with a small cup of coleslaw, was equally satisfying. Generously filled with chicken, cheese, then grilled, it left me full but not stuffed. While the chicken was a touch dry, the thin spread of fig jam helped alleviate somewhat parched bites.

I still struggle with the idea of having to pay nearly $10 for a sandwich in a coffee shop (granted, Caffè Artigiano is not just any coffee shop). So although I may be back for another cup of coffee, I would probably head elsewhere for something to eat first.

Rosetta

Chicken and Brie Panino and a Spanish Latte

Midday Elegance: Hotel MacDonald

Like most quintessential city landmarks, the Hotel MacDonald (10065 100 Street) is a familiar presence appreciated and admired mostly by afar. It’s been a few years since I had dinner in the Harvest Room (refined but stiff), but I relished the opportunity to have lunch in the beautiful Empire Ballroom for my organization’s Annual General Meeting this week.

Empire Ballroom

Unfortunately, my group’s tardiness relegated us to a table in a room normally used for cocktails and receptions only, but as the place setting was the same, there wasn’t too much to complain about, short of not being able to hear or see the speakers up on stage.

There was no menu card at each place setting, so the lunch was essentially a surprise. It has been a while since I’ve been to dinner where so many pieces of cutlery were available on the table, but in such a refined atmosphere and setting, it was only to be expected. What wasn’t expected, however, was the cute little pats of butter with the word “butter” stamped on them! I couldn’t resist taking a picture of that.

Too cute

We started with a salad of wild greens with beets. I am not normally a fan of beets, but there were so sweet and mild that I didn’t mind them at all. The main course (served to ladies first, then men clockwise around), was a “nest” of puff pastry with chicken and mixed vegetables (or, in layman’s terms, chicken pot pie), accompanied by a wild rice pilaf and steamed vegetables. The pie was hot, buttery, and deliciously creamy – it kept me full all day. Dessert was a cake with strawberry coulis, and as it had been placed on the table before we even arrived, this was a sweet ending that could have very possibly been an appetizer for some instead.

Wild greens with beets (up close, the leaves do look like weeds, don’t they?)

Chicken pot pie

Cake with strawberry coulis

All in all, it was a nice break from the office.

Red Deer Eats

I found my hit list of Calgary eateries quite useful to look back on for reference purposes, so on a weekend where a food stop in Red Deer may be on the agenda, I was hoping Chowhound would be able to help me generate options beyond the glut of Gasoline Alley and epidemic of chains. It delivered.

Redstone Grill: with a menu similar in price point to Madison’s Grill, it may be too expensive for our fuelling intention, but it’s a definite option worthy of consideration in the future.
Glenn’s: apparently has good comfort food and pie.
Rusty Pelican: the name is admittedly growing on me. The reviews on Chowhound are mixed, but with entrees priced under $20 (a filet mignon for $18.95), it would be worth a try.
It’s All Greek to Me: no relation to the Edmonton restaurant with the same name.
Las Palmeras: a restaurant which one poster claims serves the most authentic Mexican food in the province, the lack of a website prevents further comment, but this would be my pick for the weekend.

Clever Name but Rather Lame: Wild Flour Bakery

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

On Sunday morning I decided to skip the conference-provided breakfast in favor of making a stop at Wild Flour Bakery, located at 211 Bear Street. I had asked Sharon for a couple of restaurant recommendations before making my way to Banff, and Wild Flour was one of the two she gave me. I think the name was probably 80% of the reason she suggested it, but I figured I’d give it a shot anyway.

I arrived at Wild Flour just after 8 AM. They are open every day throughout the summer months from 7 AM until 6 PM. There was a couple ordering some of Wild Flour’s artisan breads ahead of me, so I had time to look around and take some photos. The space is very modern looking, and fairly open with seating for about 40 patrons.

The menu is broken into four sections: drinks, breakfast, sweets & treats, and lunch. I decided to order a medium Organic Fair Trade Coffee ($1.75 – they serve Kicking Horse) and the Toasted Breakfast Sandwich ($5.50, also available with two slices of Valbella ham for an addition $1.50).

At this point, things started to go downhill (that didn’t take long did it?). Maybe I’ve been spoiled at Starbucks where a barista always hands you a full cup of coffee, but I thought it was odd that I was given a cup to fill on my own. At the end of the counter were three coffee butlers, two bold roast and one medium roast. I set about filling my cup with the medium, only to find that it wouldn’t stop coming out! I started to say "It’s not stopping!" and when one of the employees finally noticed, she remarked "oh no not again!" Apparently they jam open quite frequently. Anyway, when I eventually got my cup full of bold roast I nearly burned my hand! The coffee was ridiculously hot, and there were no sleeves.

I took a seat in the corner and started reading some of the free newspapers they had available. Wild Flour prides itself on cooking with organic and local ingredients, and on making everything from scratch. With that in mind, I didn’t expect my breakfast sandwich to be ready immediately, but after about fifteen minutes of waiting I started to wonder. I took my order slip (my order number was the normally lucky 88…not so lucky this time) up to the counter to inquire. I was informed that they had "lost" my order, and that they’d make it right away. At this point I thought to myself – epic fail! It’s never acceptable for a restaurant to lose an order, especially when it isn’t that busy.

My breakfast sandwich arrived about five minutes later. The menu describes it as: "Our herbed egg frittata & three year old Quebec cheddar on sourdough." Unfortunately, the description is a lot tastier than the sandwich itself. I found the egg kind of spongy and far too thick. I think there should have been more cheese too!

On the whole, my experience at Wild Flour was a negative one. Even without the coffee incident and lost order, the breakfast sandwich wasn’t worth the money and the employees were probably the least friendly of any I encountered in Banff. I could probably be persuaded to give their lunch menu a shot, but I definitely won’t be rushing back to Wild Flour the next time I’m in Banff.

Inside Wild Flour Bakery

Seating

Toasted Breakfast Sandwich

Family-Style Disappointment: Santa Maria Goretti Centre

To cap off a gluttonous week of eating out, I took my family to the Santa Maria Goretti Centre (11050 90 Street) for their famous seven-course weekly brunch on Sunday.

7 courses!

With its status as a media darling (written up once in See Magazine, twice in Vue Weekly, and just recently in the Journal), attending the pranzo (lunch) feels a bit like a rite of passage for foodies in Edmonton. Their menu changes every week, but from the website (and all of the echo chamber praise), I was expecting “Italian cuisine in the Santa Maria Goretti style…based solely on the precept of superior ingredients over fancy preparation.” From the pieces I had read here and there, I knew to also anticipate a large, lively Italian crowd of regulars, family-style platters, and more food than the stomach could handle. And though it pains me to pan a non-profit that cradles repeat business and has nothing but the best intentions, this just wasn’t a good day for first timers to the Centre.

Santa Maria Goretti Centre

We drove up and parked our car in the shadow of Commonwealth Stadium. There was a bit of confusion as there were numerous functions going on that morning, but we eventually found ourselves in the correct main hall, and after paying $19 per head (cash or cheque accepted only), settled in at our table.

The hall itself is beautiful, with burnished wooden floors, majestic chandeliers, and an audiovisual setup that allowed the Euro2008 game to be broadcast and clearly viewed by all in the room. I can only imagine the glorious weddings and celebrations that have taken place here, especially with free access to a large parking lot (so long as a major event isn’t occurring next door).

Felicia and Amanda in the hall

We had been sitting idle for about fifteen minutes when I decided to approach the hostess about when the coffee and food would start being served. She assured me that our server would be taking care of us right away; I hoped so, as my Mum and I were getting pretty antsy without our morning cup of joe.

Thankfully, our waitress came by shortly after with a carafe, a basket of bread, and an antipasto platter. The latter contained scoops of potato salad, cheese, and an assortment of cold cuts. We all dug in right away, and though none of it was particularly noteworthy, we were definitely ready to eat at that point.

Antipasto platter

The second platter (also chill to the touch, not unexpected in what was essentially a banquet function) featured veal with tuna sauce and capers. I was underwhelmed, though the veal, tasting like roast beef, wasn’t bad.

Veal with Tuna Sauce

Our third dish was one that Amanda had been looking forward to all morning – pasta. This incarnation of rotini with tomato sauce and basil hit the comfort food spot, and was probably my favorite of all seven courses.

Amanda helps herself to some pasta

By the time the bulk of our mains were served, the hall had filled up to capacity, with families from the church next door taking up the remaining tables. These courses included a salad with Italian dressing, a side platter of cheddar-roasted potatoes and mixed vegetables (the frozen variety), pork rolls with gravy, and roasted chicken breasts in white sauce. Because this was the heartiest portion of food we received, it left the biggest impression on us – the potatoes, pork, and chicken had all been overcooked, rendering them dry, tough, and virtually tasteless. It’s worth noting that we were offered seconds of all entrees, but other than the pasta, we wouldn’t have wanted to have to eat any more of the disappointing mains.

Lots of food

Felicia smiles suspiciously at the camera

My parents

Dessert was a slice of cherry cake, and like the dishes that preceded it, the crumbly cake was devoid of moisture and best consumed with a cup of coffee.

Posing with the cherry cake

While I did enjoy the “family-style” way of dining, and passing around platters (instead of the accustomed ease of a Lazy Susan at Asian restaurants), I was expecting so much more from this supposed best-kept secret in Edmonton. Given the rotational menu, however, perhaps we just experienced a off-day in the kitchen, and should offer the Centre a fair second opportunity leave us with a better impression.

“The Coffee Shop”: Wild Tangerine

Annie introduced me to Wild Tangerine (10383 112 Street) two years ago, but I haven’t been back since. I thought the portions were small for the price, but the decor and the atmosphere were the closest I have ever found to duplicating the fictional Sex and the City “coffee shop” in Edmonton. When a window opened up on Friday to meet up with Bettina for dinner, I jumped at the opportunity to take her there.

Wild Tangerine is part of a very small group of restaurants that are considered darlings of the Edmonton food scene (Culina and Soul Soup are two others). Part of that reason is chef Judy Wu’s presence on the national stage (for example, just recently winning bronze at the Mystery Wine Pairing event at the Canadian Culinary Championships in Toronto). The other is because of its whimsical interpretation of fusion fare using locally-sourced products.

I’ve always been sceptical of the movement towards Asian-Western “fusion”, especially because with that word anywhere near the menu, restaurants seem to believe it grants them a license to automatically increase the prices. At any rate, I was ready to give Wild Tangerine a fair shot that night.

At 5:30pm, we were just one of three parties at the restaurant, but by 7pm, nearly every table had been taken. My initial impression of the decor still held true – I loved the muted, earth-toned walls, orb-like pendant lighting and the IKEA-esque plastic white chairs. In all, with its dark floor and open space, it reminded me of a funkier version of Culina.

I also appreciated the unexpected little touches, like the stamp on the brightly-colored napkin, the mini-clipbord menus, and the smooth pebble stones at the base of the bathroom sink. I thought the plastic water cups were a little inelegant and out of place given the setting, but that was a minor nitpick.

Their selections of mains is small, almost always a good sign of a restaurant trying to focus its energies on doing a few things very well. I had heard rave reviews on their Shrimp Lollipops ($8 for 3), so we ordered that to start. For entrees, Bettina opted for the Peppercorn Crusted Yellow Fin Tuna with Organic Hemp-Oil Tomato Coulis ($20), while I decided to try the Cha-Siu Organic Pembina Pork Tenderloin with Spicy Tangerine Glaze ($22).

The Shrimp Lollipops were beautifully presented, carefully placed in a white ceramic cup. Neither of us cared for the wasabi yogurt they were served with, but I loved the crispy coating on the shrimp. They were undoubtedly messy to eat, with bits of fried noodle ending up as unfortunate casualties with every bite, but each savoury crunch transported me to an upscale midway where beautiful food tastes as it should.

Our mains were timed right, both delivered shortly after our starter plates had been cleared. Again, the artful arrangement of the food should be noted, with ribbons of carrots and slivers of chives adorning the tops of both our dishes. The bok choy was perfectly prepared, crispy, with the natural juices of the vegetable palpable. Unfortunately, both her tuna and my pork had been overcooked (the tuna to the point where it stopped tasting like fish and had a firm, meat-like consistency). Luckily, the sublime, sweet-spicy tangerine glaze saved my dish somewhat, ensuring that I used all of the conveniently pre-sliced pork as a vehicle to soak up every last ounce of the sauce.

Service was attentive throughout, and again, with my adoration of the ambiance, I know I will be back. Likely next time, it will be for tapas and desserts instead.

Wild Tangerine

Interior

Place setting

Shrimp Lollipops

Peppercorn Crusted Yellow Fin Tuna

Cha-Siu Organic Pembina Pork Tenderloin

Italian in Banff: Timbers Food Company

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

I’m in Banff this weekend for the nextMEDIA conference, and despite not having my restaurant buddy here with me (that would be Sharon, of course) I’ve checked out a couple of local establishments. Last night I did two things that I pretty much never do: I ate somewhere chosen at random, and I ate alone.

While wandering around downtown Banff, I came across Timbers Food Company, located just off Banff Avenue at 204 Wolf Street. From the outside you might think that Timbers sells logs or camping equipment, but it’s actually an Italian restaurant inside a converted house. The log deck outside seats 60 patrons during the summer months, while the inside has room for 50.

I walked in to find the restaurant about half full, a good sign in my book. I opted to sit at the bar near the front of the restaurant, so that I could watch both the restaurant inside and the busy street outside. The waiter brought water and fresh bread as I got settled in.

After a quick look at the menu, I decided on the Beef Tortellini with Cream of Tomato sauce ($14.95). My first impression after it arrived was that the portion size was quite small, but I was deceived. The tasty dish was really quite filling! I wouldn’t go so far as to call it the best tortellini I’ve ever had, but it definitely hit the spot.

I’m not sure if my waiter was just really friendly or if he guessed that I was some sort of food reviewer (maybe because I was taking photos), but he was very attentive, friendly, and seemed genuinely concerned about whether or not I enjoyed the food. It made my “eating alone” experience much more enjoyable than it would otherwise have been.

If you’re in Banff and and in need of a hearty meal, give Timbers a try.

Outside

Inside

Beef Tortellini

Just One of Many: Pho Tau Bay Restaurant

Convinced by coworkers that Pho Tau Bay Restaurant (10660 98 Street) would soon become my new favorite pho haunt, I met Dickson, a fellow pho enthusiast, for lunch there this afternoon.

Like most restaurants in Chinatown, both the storefront and interior are nothing to write home about. The decor is dated, furniture worn and floor in need of a makeover. But for the supposed authenticity and cheap prices, much can be overlooked. Well, it seems their prices went up recently – a medium bowl is now $6.20 (up from $5.60), while an extra large bowl is priced at $7. Of course, for the serving size, it is still very reasonable (and cheaper than Pagolac and Golden Bird), but it seems they will have to do more to differentiate themselves from the crowd at this point.

My coworkers weren’t kidding when they said that there was nothing but pho on the menu – twenty varieties, with combinations of beef flank, tendon, brisket and tripe all available. I was disappointed with a lack of rare or medium rare beef, so ended up ordering a medium bowl of pho with beef balls, while Dickson opted for the extra large with steak, well done brisket, flank, tendon and tripe. This was the only non-dim sum meal I’ve experienced where ordering on paper (checking off the quantity desired next to the dish name) was called for.

Our dishes took no more than five minutes to prepare (reminding me very much of Pho Hoa), which was either really efficient or, as we were joking, cause for suspicion. Dickson thought my serving was rather small when compared with others like Hoang Long and Pagolac, but for a lunch meal, I was satisfied with the size. The dish itself though was a bit disappointing – the broth was a tad salty, and overall, we both longed for bowls from any of the other eateries mentioned above.

While we may have been let down by Pho Tau Bay in part because of extremely high expectations, with so many other great pho spots in the area, I’m not sure we’ll be back to give it a second chance.

Pho Tau Bay

Interior

All-pho menu

Beef Ball Pho

Special Pho

Fish Heaven: Billingsgate Lighthouse Cafe

Mack’s Grandma always recommends two places when we ask for suggestions of where to buy seafood: Boyd’s (103, 979 Fir Street, Sherwood Park) and Billingsgate Seafood Market and Lighthouse Café (7331 104 Street). We decided to let the experts prepare the fish and headed to the latter on Wednesday.

On a gloomy, cloud-ridden evening that Mack thought fittingly cast an east coast feel, we entered the market. It may have been the foreboding weather, but we seem to have missed the dinner rush, as the market was devoid of shoppers. We did a quick round through the cases and freezers, but our empty stomachs soon drove us to the end of the hallway and into the Lighthouse Café.

Our reservation wasn’t necessary, and we were seated right away in the circular lighthouse-shaped dining area. It was very dimly lit, relying heavily on the natural light from the gradually darkening sky. From the outside, I thought the interior would be quite kitschy, but instead, the décor was charming and tasteful. A small lighthouse-shaped candle holder was on the table, and pictures and figures of various sea creatures were plentiful yet not dominating in any way.

I appreciated the short introduction of the café on the inside of the menu, detailing the history of market having to evolve to meet customer requests for prepared seafood. As expected, the menu contained a few dishes entirely devoid of seafood (pasta, risotto, chicken, steak), and a variety of fish, scallop, shrimp and lobster entrees that drew from the market’s fresh inventory.

Both of us knew our order even before the menu was opened – the Lighthouse Fish and Chips, made with pacific halibut filets prepared with a light batter, served with coleslaw, tartar sauce and fries (one piece for $10.95). Mack also wanted to give their Lighthouse Calamari a go ($8.95).

Service was consistent through our meal, and our waitress was always just around the corner ready to fill up our water glasses. The calamari arrived after a short wait, topped with red onions and served with a chipotle aioli and a marinara sauce. I preferred these buttermilk-coated rings to the heavier batter found at the likes of Earls and Mr. Mike’s, but Mack disagreed.

We were still snacking on the calamari when our mains arrived. The bloated halibut, unfortunately resembling a corndog, looked like it had just been picked up from a midway vendor. I was hoping the fish hidden inside the crispy, glistening crust would taste fresher than the frying oil used, and though it was fork-flaky, it was also disappointingly dry.

We received two Ovation mint chocolates with our bill, which was a nice touch, but still didn’t make up for our lacklustre entree. Mack acknowledged that we probably ordered a dish not demonstrative of their seafood catalogue, so we may be back in the future for fish not fried.