Tag: restaurant reviews

Music and More: Blue Chair Cafe

I’m always happy when I can finally scratch a restaurant off my “to try” list, particularly when the restaurant has been on the register for a number of years.

I had initially added Blue Chair Cafe onto said list when I started to hear great things about their vibrant, packed-to-the-rafters, story slam events. The Journal recently reported that the relationship has since ended, but the restaurant has now started hosting their own version of the off-the-cuff narrative competition (on the second Wednesday of every month).

So while it would be logical to think my visit there two weeks ago would have been to attend a story slam, instead, a group of us from my workplace went to support a musically-inclined colleague of ours. He plays in a band called Le Fuzz, who bill themselves as “Alberta world beat fusion”. The quintet are super-talented, vivacious and upbeat, and every time I see them perform, I am amazed at how seamlessly the band is able to transition from one style of music to another. Moreover, they are known for songs sung in languages other than English – including Spanish, Swahili and Mandarin.

A long history as a performance venue (I couldn’t get a clear shot of Le Fuzz…they don’t stand still!)

A coworker commented that the layout of the Blue Chair reminded her of the now-departed Sidetrack Café, with the stage set back into a corner, and a mezzanine level ensuring that even those seated far back had a clear view of the band. With a packed schedule that includes a different performer almost every night, the Blue Chair has to be one of the busiest live music venues in the city.

Interior

I loved the bold wall colours, eclectic art, and the globe light fixtures that had been hung at different heights. Combined, the décor made for a very cool but comfortable feel.

A cozy two-top

I had also heard positive reviews about the food, though, as stated on the menu (on the flip side of a record sleeve!), the restaurant is hampered by a small kitchen. I ended up ordering my second choice (they had already run out of turkey chilli), the pad thai ($16).

Cool menu

As it was an absolutely full house, I was expecting a long wait, but was pleasantly surprised. While it was not the most authentic pad thai I’ve had (saucy, mild, and made with vermicelli instead of a flat rice noodle – similar to The King & I’s version), I enjoyed it, and liked the rich peanut and coconut flavours in the sauce. There were also a fair bit of vegetables (julienned carrots, blanched green beans, bean sprouts) included, which added great crunch and colour to the dish.

Pad Thai

To enjoy their last song and encore, a few of us found our way to some empty space and made a dance floor (okay, I joined them only for moral support). The wait staff who had to make their way around our cluster were definitely a patient bunch!

In all, Blue Chair Cafe provided a great space to unwind after a long work week. I hope to be back in the future to finally witness a story slam!

Blue Chair Cafe
9624 – 76 Avenue
(780) 989 – 2861
Monday – Sunday 10am-10pm

Cozy Retreat: The Bothy

I met up with Annie last Thursday after work at Southgate for some light shopping. For dinner, we thought it would be a great opportunity to finally visit The Bothy nearby, a place I have meant to try since it opened back in December, and that Annie had heard about recently on CBC.

The Bothy occupies the end unit of a strip mall just off Calgary Trail. In spite of its vehicle environs, the décor inside does wonders to transport patrons to another world, one filled with share plates and fine spirits.

I loved the interior. From the kitschy signs (“wine is bottled poetry”) to the warm-coloured walls, painted in autumnal yellows and reds, to the lounge-inducing leather chairs, I felt instantly welcome and comfortable. The music that night skewed in the direction of jazz, the ideal backdrop to float the evening away in a swell of conversation and food. My only misgiving about the cozy space was the two mounted television screens. Last year, Todd Babiak wondered why many bars felt the need for streaming electronic entertainment, and particularly with The Bothy, and its feel as a gathering place, why the televisions are necessary at all.

Interior

The food menu wasn’t large (especially when juxtaposed with the liquor menu), two pages featuring plenty of nibbles, cheese and charcuterie options, and some hot fare. It took some willpower not to order two of everything from the cheese and charcuterie selections, but I figured some room should be saved for dessert.

Loved the detailed description of the wine offerings

I had chosen the chicken and leek pie, as the savoury pies were the sous chef’s specialty. I was not disappointed. The flaky, buttery pastry was perfection, a crust that simply melted into the velvety filling of tender chicken, softened leeks and white wine and cream gravy. I was saddened with every bite, as it meant I was that much closer to finishing an absolutely enjoyable dish. The accompanying tomato and cream soup hit the spot as well, tangy and satisfying, particularly because I had been craving tomato soup for a few days.

Chicken & leek pie

Annie took the plunge with The Bothy’s haggis, something neither of us had tried before. I think we were expecting a plate that resembled a B-rate horror movie, so found the dish that arrived relatively benign. She said that it tasted like a fattier, more sumptuous version of ground pork, with a texture that paired with the underlying mashed potatoes very well.

Haggis with tatties (mashed potatoes) and neeps (turnips)

Service was stellar, though I’m certain we didn’t take full advantage of the server’s expertise. When we arrived at the final course, the server had remembered Annie’s brief mention at the beginning of our meal that she was thinking of ordering a dessert wine. As such, the server recommended a pairing with the apple pie we had selecting. Annie said the Moscato d’Asti was a great suggestion.

As for the apple pie? It was a tiny dessert that packed a big punch. After my entrée, I was already familiar with the kitchen’s deftness with pastry, but the filling – wonderfully spiced, it’s a pie made for dwindling summer nights as the season rolls into fall, and for cold winter nights, when sustenance is best in the form of sweet remembrances from warmer days.

Mini apple pie with Hercule De Charlevoix

As darkness fell, the ambiance of The Bothy deepened and matured, with tabletop candles flickering light and shadow. Though we probably would have liked to stay on, weeknight obligations beckoned, and we reluctantly exited the freeway retreat.

The Bothy after dark

I’m so glad I was finally able to try The Bothy. It is a fantastic addition to Edmonton’s dining scene, and one I hope to frequent again soon.

The Bothy
5482 Calgary Trail
(780) 761-1761
Sunday & Tuesday 5pm – close, Wednesday-Saturday 11:30am – close, closed Mondays

Food without a View: The Copper Pot

On Tuesday, Mack and I joined my fellow board members and their spouses at The Copper Pot for our belated appreciation dinner. It was originally supposed to happen last December, but was pushed back due to scheduling conflicts.

Unfortunately, the view on this spring day out of the restaurant’s stunning panoramic windows wasn’t any better five months late, as the grey clouds and rain (although needed) cast a shroud over the otherwise scenic Legislature and Ezio Farone Park (I thought I had taken a photo of the view during my previous visit, but no dice).

The Copper Pot had divided our private party of thirty into three separate tables at the back of the restaurant. And although the restaurant was never full over the course of our stay, all of the tables lining the expansive windows were occupied at one point or another – not bad for a mid-week evening.

Instead of a wholly fixed meal, we were provided with at least two options for each of the four courses. Given the state of the weather outside, some of the choices were made for me – the soup of the day (instead of salad), a mini beef Wellington (instead of bruschetta), a duo of sea bass and halibut and a flourless chocolate cake for dessert.

Service was exceptional. Given the server assigned to us worked alone (apart from when our plates were being delivered), he did an amazing job catering to our needs. From filling up water glasses (mine was never empty, and I am like a fish at the table) to juggling multiple drink orders to never requiring any assistance on who a dish was destined for, he did not miss a beat. Bravo.

On the food side of things, some dishes were better than others. My starter soup of the day, a creamy wild mushroom, was silky with a pleasing depth of flavour, but really could have been warmer.

Wild Mushroom Soup

The beef Wellington was a disappointment – chewy and overdone, I probably should have just unwrapped it to savour the puff pastry and the black current demi. I definitely had bruschetta envy looking at my neighbour’s dish.

Mini Beef Wellington

My entrée was a mixed bag. While the fish was well cooked, accompanied by a tomato pesto I couldn’t get enough of, the butternut squash risotto was under seasoned, and gummy in places. With Mack’s entree, in spite of the fact that his steak had been inordinately charred, it was cooked to the requested doneness. Still, Mack noted it was an at par steak, no better.

Sea Bass and Halibut Duo

New York Steak with a Cognac and Horseradish Reduction

The meal-ending flourless chocolate cake, however, was delicious. Rich, with great chocolate flavour, Mack and I both detected a slight nuttiness as well. When we asked our server what the cake contained however, we were told that the flour had been replaced by cornstarch and not ground nuts as we had suspected.

Flourless Chocolate Cake

While the food was inconsistent, between the service and the view, I’d still recommend The Copper Pot as a special occasion restaurant – I know I’ll have to come back once things have greened up a bit. Thanks again to the staff for organizing a great night.

The Copper Pot
101, 9707 110 Street
(780) 452-7800
Lunch: Tuesday-Friday 11am – 2pm; Dinner: Tuesday-Thursday 4-9pm, Friday-Saturday 4-10pm

Take ‘N’ Bake Revolution: Papa Murphy’s

Who knew there was a pizza revolution taking place right underneath our noses? Forget frozen pizzas or even delivery, it seems the new movements is towards fresh-made pie, to be baked right in your home oven.

Though grocery stores have offered deli-made pizzas for years, businesses that specialize in take ‘n bake pizzas are relatively new to Edmonton. Papa Murphy’s opened its first shop in the city back in 2007, and now have six locations in the Edmonton area (their eventual plan is to expand to a total of 17 stores).

Papa Murphy’s trumpets their commitment of using always fresh, never frozen ingredients. Moreover, in an effort to set themselves apart from the likes of Pizza Hut, Panago and Domino’s, they emphasize the fact that their carryout pizzas will be hot out of your oven.

Armed with a 2-for-1 coupon, Mack and I stopped by the Papa Murphy’s around the corner from the Italian Centre South on our way home on Saturday, eager for an easy dinner option after a long day. It was empty, though in their defence, it was after 7pm. We were faced with twenty options, not including the possibility of a custom order. Pizzas ranged in price from $9.99 for a medium cheese pizza to $22.99 for a family-size double-layered grilled chicken and bacon-stuffed pizza. We decided on a more restrained choice, a medium Papa’s All Meat (mozzarella, ham, salami, pepperoni, Italian sausage, ground beef, provolone, cheddar) and a medium Rancher (mozzarella, ham, pepperoni, ground beef, onions, provolone, cheddar), both priced at $13.99.

Papa Murphy’s

Our pizzas were assembled right before our eyes, Subway-style, complete with a sheet of reheating instructions. My favourite line on the guide: “Please bake before eating”.

Assembling our pizza

Ready to take home

The staff were friendly, though our question about freezing a pizza seemed to throw them off – there was no way Mack and I would be able to eat our way through two pizzas at one sitting. The staff person said it could be done, but warned us to thaw it thoroughly before baking it, to prevent a soggy, uneven crust.

Fifteen minutes in the preheated oven back at home, dinner was ready. We had baked the pizza on the included tray, opting to see how well it worked. No surprise, it didn’t hold a candle to the result on a pizza stone, but was better than using a conventional baking sheet. The pizza also wasn’t overly greasy, and contained a solid amount of both toppings and cheese. All in all, it was a tasty pizza.

Papa’s All Meat, ready to eat

Though we enjoyed the pizza, I’m not sold on the take ‘n’ bake concept. Sure, it’s great that the toppings are fresh, and it could be convenient to pick up a pizza on the way home after work, but if I was looking for a quick fix, I’m fairly certain I would prefer calling for delivery, particularly if it would only end up costing me a few dollars more (and, well, I like Panago). That said, given the increasing number of Papa Murphy’s locations in the city, it looks like take ‘n’ bake has found some fans in Edmonton.

Papa Murphy’s
10431 51 Avenue (5 other locations in Edmonton and area)
(780) 476-7272

Fresh Gastropub Flavours: Red Star Pub

Prior to attending the Edmonton Rush game on Friday, Mack and I met up with Thom and Lana at Red Star. A casual pub seemed to be a good spot to grab a drink and a bite to eat before taking in the lacrosse action, especially when we could just hop on the convenient LRT at Bay or Corona Stations to whisk us away to Rexall Place.

I was eager to try Red Star at some point, seeing as Chef Daniel Costa’s current standing as one of the city’s up-and-coming young kitchen stars, with recent profiles in the Journal and Parlour. I could see how his focus on elevating simple cuisine and fresh flavours could attract a loyal following.

Mack and I had expected the downtown after-work crowd to fill Red Star to the seams, but seeing as it felt like the first true spring day, most were probably filling the outdoor patio seats instead. The building that houses Red Star is also currently under renovations, the unfortunate consequence of this being that the businesses underneath are obscured by unsightly orange tarps, further screening natural light into the already dim space.

Thankfully, the exterior aesthetics didn’t seem to affect the service, or the light atmosphere inside the bar. We were greeted immediately by the server, who directed us to sit anywhere we wanted. We were promptly given food and drink menus (I loved the tag cloud-like design on the back of both of them). Red Star proudly advertises their large beer menu, featuring sixty different brews. In contrast, the food selection is limited to a dozen or so dishes, but given the advisory printed at the bottom (“This is a one man kitchen. Food is served when ready. Please be patient. Enjoy.”), that is entirely understandable. With its emphasis on local suppliers and slant towards comfort food share plates, I couldn’t help but be reminded of Sebastian Lysz’s last menu at Devlin’s. Mack and I had some difficulty deciding between the mini burgers/not sliders and the braised meatballs ($16), but ended up with the latter, as well as an order of gnudi ($16).

Food menu

We were primed to be patient for the food, but it seemed no one else in the pub was interested in anything other than drinks, so our plates arrived sooner than expected. The gnudi (dumplings made of ricotta cheese) were pillow-soft, and tossed with tomatoes and zucchini, made for a comforting, but not too heavy dish.

Gnudi

The tender, tasty meatballs, made with a blend of Pembina pork and Spring Creek Ranch beef, were the star. The greens really were the perfect accompaniment, adding a freshness that rounded out the dish nicely.

Braised meatballs

With an interesting menu starring fresh, local ingredients, how could I not be back? See you again, Red Star.

Red Star Pub
10534 Jasper Avenue
(780) 428-0825

Marathon Dinner: Melting Pot

Fondue, whether savoury or sweet, is definitely not something I grew up with. It’s been a novel concept that I’ve experimented with recently as a fun alternative to an entrée-based meal, but not something I’ve thoroughly explored.

That said, I was really curious to try Melting Pot, a US-based chain that opened its first Canadian franchise location in Edmonton back in March. Based on some of the comments on their Facebook group, many within and outside of the city were holding their breath in anticipation of the restaurant, and were disappointed it wasn’t opening sooner.

We met Bruce and Sarah at Melting Pot last Saturday. It’s not the best location, in a strip mall off Calgary Trail (next to Cora’s), in terms of public transit accessibility or ability to see it from the freeway. Our server later told us that most Melting Pot branches are similarly placed, off the beaten path and never in a standalone building.

The surroundings are immediately forgotten upon stepping foot inside the restaurant, however, accented by a modern fireplace, sleek lobby furnishings, and a glass cube wine case.

Wine case

As mentioned in the Journal review, the dining room is built like a labyrinth. While some seating areas are more open (like the one we were eventually led to), in a journey to locate the washroom, I wandered through several dim corridors and past booths tucked at an angle that promote intimacy like none I’ve seen before. And while I wouldn’t consider cheese fondue to be the most sensual dish, in the privacy of your unseen booth, I suppose it could be.

Our four-top was located in the lounge, with a full view of the bar, and ended up being a better place to be, noise-wise, than the adjacent dining room that housed several large groups. A single induction burner was set into the centre of the granite countertop, and thus could only accommodate one pot. It meant that save for ordering a salad, everyone in the party had to agree on the selections of savoury and sweet fondues.

Thankfully, the four of us were on the same page, and weren’t beset by allergies that would impact our options. We were told that Melting Pot had a feature menu that would change every six months. The current theme was “Pacific Islands”, highlighted in their Big Night Out four-course meal, which included a cheese fondue, a salad, a savoury fondue, and a dessert fondue. Prices ranged from $90 to $106 per couple, depending upon the inclusion of lobster tails. Our group chose the mid-range option dubbed Fondue Fusion ($98), though we could have substituted a fondue type off of the regular menu as well.

The Feng Shui cheese fondue was prepared tableside. Our server handily combined a generous pour of white wine (copious amounts of wine were a pattern that night), mirin, sake, Gruyère and horseradish and chive Havarti and stirred it until it formed a creamy consistency. We were offered a selection of dippers, including bread, apples, and vegetables. The alcohol content was more apparent on the vegetables (which all needed to be blanched) and bread, so the clear favourite dipper were the apples, with their sweetness cutting through the tang of the alcohol.

Feng Shui Cheese Fondue

The feature salad was lettuce wraps with cucumber, carrots, bean sprouts, mint and almonds with a spicy orange-ginger dressing. Though it was a refreshing combination following the dense, heavy cheese course, we agreed it was probably an unnecessary filler.

Lettuce Wraps

The main course was a sight to see, a jumble of sectional plates, brightly-coloured sauces, cutlery and billowing smoke from our fondue pot. We had chosen the Coq au Vin, which again, was prepared tableside, and featured a hearty splash of burgundy wine, fresh herbs, mushrooms and garlic (at this point, Mack remarked at how this was essentially a version of hot pot). As the mixture heated up, our server noted rough cooking times for our various proteins (lobster tail, sesame crusted teriyaki sirloin, citrus infused pork tenderloin, sushi-grade ahi tuna, garlic chili chicken breast, kiwi lime shrimp) and identified the seven accompanying sauces we had at our disposal. No doubt about it, the servers at the Melting Pot had a more demanding job than servers at other casual upscale chains.

Coq au Vin Fondue

It was definitely a fun process, cooking up the various items and experimenting with different sauce combinations. The cream cheese-based green goddess sauce was a big hit with Bruce and Mack, while I was partial to the yogurt-based curry sauce. Mack, surprisingly, liked the ahi tuna the most, and I really enjoyed the dumplings, but what amazed me the most was how forgiving all of the items were in the event of overcooking. Between the prep of the proteins and the sauces, I could see how Melting Pot can justify their prices – many are willing to pay for the convenience and hassle-free experience they provide.

Cooking with wine

Sarah and I took care of the dessert fondue selection, though it was actually a really difficult choice (oreo? amaretto?). We ended up with the Ying & Yang, a basic mix of white and dark chocolate.

Ying & Yang Chocolate Fondue

Between moments of intense enjoyment (featuring strawberries, bananas, pineapple, cheesecake, marshmallows, pound cake and most of all the brownies), we all agreed that this was the best course of all. The chocolate was smooth and decadent, and not overwhelmingly sweet. It was unanimous that this fondue alone was worth returning for, and could make Melting Pot Edmonton’s best dessert destination.

The dessert spread

By the time we licked the chocolate bowl clean, four hours had passed. No, that isn’t a typo – four hours had passed. Of course, we were doing our share of conversing during dinner, which made for a great evening (and the pacing meant we were comfortably and not uncomfortably full), but we learned that choosing the Big Night Out meant committing several hours of time to the restaurant. Though some patrons may visit for single courses, we figured the majority of their business was the four course bonanza, and wondered how busy it would be on most weeknights. Regardless, I would highly recommend the dessert fondue at the Melting Pot, and the restaurant itself for a unique dinner experience.

Melting Pot
#117, 2920 Calgary Trail
780-465-4DIP (4347)
Monday-Thursday 4:30-10pm, Friday-Saturday 4-11pm, Sunday 4-10pm

Steakhouse Elegance: Bistecca

Four months ago, my friend Janice relocated to Toronto. She came back to visit last week, and, craving some good ol’ Alberta Beef, asked for a steakhouse recommendation for our gathering. As the group had yet to try Bistecca, the newest addition to the Sorrentino’s family, it seemed like a good choice.

We met there on Wednesday night. It was a quiet evening in the restaurant, with only half a dozen tables occupied over our entire stay. I was the first of our party to arrive, which gave me some time to admire the décor and soak up the ambiance. The black/white/red colour palate reminded me of Caffe Sorrentino interiors, but with the addition of carpet, plush banquets and high-mounted mirrors, the space had a modern sophistication a cut above its coffee house cousins. The floor-to-ceiling windows also helped dispel the myth that steakhouses must be cavernous and dimly lit. I really appreciated the interior, and had high hopes for the food.

Interior

The menu provided better range than a typical steakhouse as well, with Italian-inspired dishes such as panzanella and seafood fritters, which would satisfy even those not wishing to partake in heavier entrees. Annie ended up going that route, ordering a risotto cake and bison Carpaccio, while the rest of us chose dishes from the steak menu (most which are accompanied with the day’s potato and vegetable). It is worth noting that Bistecca sources some of their meat from local farms – Spring Creek Ranch and Crystal Creek – and prices were more reasonable than I expected, ranging from $26 for a duo of flank and flat iron steaks to $85 for a 32 ounce Porterhouse for two.

Parmigiano-Reggiano risotto cake with shaved smoked duck, Morello cherry, berry peppercorn oil

While none of us were floored by our selections, most of us enjoyed our meals. My order of braised Spring Creek Ranch short ribs ($28) was pretty generous, fully de-boned, and necessarily tender. The fat-to-meat ratio was also less than I’ve usually encountered, without significant detriment to flavour. I didn’t take to the polenta cake underneath, however – stringy and tasteless, I could have done without it.

Short ribs

Beef tenderloin (6 ounces, $32)

Marinated steak duo (flank and flat iron steaks, $26)

The only really egregious error that occurred that night was with one companion’s “Bistecca” (a 14 ounce rib-eye, $37), which had been prepared medium-well instead of the requested rare. The server apologized for the error, and had a replacement steak prepared promptly.

The “Bistecca”

Service wavered a bit, as our waiter had a tendency to disappear when we needed him most (such as informing him about the overcooked dish). Still, our experience was mostly positive, and as a result, I wouldn’t mind returning to Bistecca in the future if I had a craving for steak served in an elegant but comfortable dining room.

Bistecca
2345 111 Street
(780) 439-7335
Monday-Thursday 3-10pm, Friday-Saturday 3-11pm, Sunday 4-9pm

The 2010 PMA International Winemaker’s Dinner at Madison’s Grill

Tuesday was a funny day. One minute, I was mopping up the lake that had overtaken our office bathroom (there is something to be said about reliable plumbing), the next, I was at a posh food and wine event at the always elegant Madison’s Grill.

I can’t express how fortunate Mack and I were to be the recipients of an extremely generous gift – two tickets to the Peter Mielzynski Agencies (PMA) International Winemaker’s dinner, the gateway to an evening of glorious food, liberally poured spirits and the company of some of the most renowned winemakers in the world. At $160 a ticket, it was out of our price range, but Monique and Patrick, who we had met at the Farmers’ Market Dinner at the same venue a few months back, were unable to attend, and asked us if we could go in their place. We accepted, and thanked them profusely.

One of several glasses of wine that night

While Mack and I enjoy wine, we admittedly aren’t very knowledgeable about it – growing regions, grape varieties, aging processes – all of it forms a murky haze for us. And though one night does not cure all, to have the opportunity to be exposed to those whose enthusiasm and passion for wine exuded through their pores was intoxicating (or was that the wine?).

A sea of glasses

We arrived at the restaurant just after 6:00, greeted by floating trays of hors d’ouvres and the offer of a sweet grass martini made with Calvados (apple brandy). Not long after, Chef Blair Lebsack spotted us in the crowd and came to greet us personally – his ability to make everyone feel welcome is something that elevates him in the industry, in my opinion.

Eventually, we found ourselves at a table where the common denominator was an interest in wine. PMA, which put together the dinner (we found out later that PMA represents some of the top wine labels in the world), ensured that one of the seven wine and spirit makers present were seated at each of the seven tables. Our table was fortunate to dine with the affable Craig McDonald, who works at the Wayne Gretzky Estate Winery in Niagara, and is considered one of the best winemakers in Canada.

Whites

The Farmers’ Market Dinner had exposed us to the concept of a chef’s introduction of a dish, and how the preamble about the ingredients and processes undertaken to create the final result enriches the meal. An additional layer was added to the PMA dinner, as the winemaker was given the microphone first, to introduce their company and products. Not only was it interesting to hear the stories behind some of the spirits, I was also amazed by the history and generations-old expertise in the room. Lamberto Frescobaldi’s family, for example, has been in the winemaking business for seven hundred years in Tuscany.

Reds

Blair then took the floor before cutlery was raised, and explained why the kitchen thought the dish in front of us would pair well with the wine or spirit we were drinking. Halfway through the dinner, Mack remarked, “I never really appreciated pairings until now.” I felt the same way.

Innis & Gunn beer

The amuse bouche of pickled beet and carrot terrine was meant to refresh our palate after the heavier scallop, tuna tartare and foie gras hors d’ouvres. It was exactly that, a pop of acidity that complemented the sweet and bubbly Pongracz Cap Classique from South Africa.

Pickled beet and carrot terrine with dill salsa verde

The first course was Mack’s favourite – an unassuming combination of steamed PEI mussels with braised pork belly. He thought the pairing, with a Wayne Gretzky Estate Series Chardonnay, was a dream, and loved the textural play of the mussels and the meltingly tender pork.

Steamed PEI mussels and braised pork belly

The next course was my favourite – an upside down smoked duck and gouda tart. As soon as the plate was put down in front of me, I was in sensory overload, under the spell of the fragrant aroma. The duck breast was perfectly cooked, fatty and toothsome, while peach preserves offset the richness of the buttery tart. I am normally not a fan of beer, but I couldn’t help but enjoy the pairing with an Innis & Gunn beer, which played off the smokiness well.

Upside down smoked duck and gouda tart

The nicoise salad with seared ahi tuna served as a good bridge to the denser courses that followed. The beans deserve a special mention, still crisp and light.

Nicoise salad

The fourth course of thyme rubbed Nouveau Beef petite tender was unforgettable. With truffle appearing in more mainstream restaurants, sometimes unnecessarily, this dish reminded me why it is such a glorious ingredient to begin with – creamy and fragrant, both Mack and I wanted to bathe in the white truffle hollandaise. This dish also exemplifies Blair’s exquisite attention to detail – as the beef was paired with a Sokol Blosser Dundee Hills Pinot Noir from Oregon, he made sure that the accompanying wild mushrooms (and white truffle) were also sourced from that state.

Thyme rubbed Nouveau Beef petite tender

The final main, paired with a bold and full-bodied Collazzi Toscana from Italy, was Blair’s clever homage to rustic, “meat and potatoes” Italian food. Instead of doing a traditional mashed or boiled potatoes, however, the plate featured an extravagant potato-lobster lasagne, with the starchy spud layers standing in for pasta.

Oven roasted Pilatus Farms bison tenderloin

Dessert (accompanied by our eighth drink that night, a Kunde Reserve Century Vines Zinfandel) was a sinfully rich chocolate-almond silk cake, tempered somewhat with a wild berry compote. Needless to say, I was happy we were offered coffee to end the night, the caffeine helping somewhat to gather my bearings.

Chocolate-almond silk cake

At the end of the “epic meal” (Mack’s words), the kitchen staff were applauded with a much-deserved standing ovation. From start to finish, it was an incredible dinner, and an evening we won’t soon forget. We are indebted to Monique and Patrick for this experience.

Good Eats in Banff: The Banff Centre, Saltlik, Evelyn’s and The Bison

We were fortunate to have the opportunity to spend last weekend in Banff, the result of an impromptu request for Mack to speak at the Canadian Arts Summit. Hosted at the beautiful Banff Centre this year, it was easy to see how rejuvenating the location itself could be for the conference delegates.

The Banff Centre

While making our way to the Professional Development Centre, we stumbled upon two deer. Though I shouldn’t be surprised that wildlife in the area no longer flinch at the sign of humans, we were still amazed at their nonchalance in spite of our close proximity.

 

On Saturday evening, we joined Ken and his wife Amy at the Dining Room in Donald Cameron Hall, a gorgeous space lined with windows that allowed for a spectacular view. Being that the event was a gathering of arts and culture administrators and artists, we even spotted a Canadian celebrity – Paul Gross of Due South fame.

The banquet dinner was a little better than most large events I’ve attended, though to be fair, this function only saw about 6o or so guests served. My favourite part of the meal was hands down the sweet potato crisps atop the sablefish main – an ingenious idea, executed perfectly!

Spinach salad with pomegranate dressing

Sablefish with sweet potato crisps and vegetables

Raspberry crème brulee and berries

After the meal, we joined Ken and Amy at Saltlik for a drink and in Ken’s opinion, the world’s best calamari. With such hype and high expectations, Mack and I were sure the wok-fired calamari wouldn’t live up to it all, but it did. Simply prepared, with a touch-light batter, tossed with sea salt, pepper, poblanos and charred serranos, they were surprisingly addictive.

Wok-fired calamari from Saltlik

The next morning, while Mack was at the conference, I trekked the roadside path to downtown Banff, about a half hour walk. Though I passed a few people on the way down, I mostly had the route to myself, not a sound to be heard save for the whistle of the wind through the trees.

The Fairmont Banff Springs hotel in the distance

I took a break at Evelyn’s Again, one of the three incarnations of the popular Evelyn’s Coffee Bar in town (it looks like another is in the works on Banff Avenue). While the coffee ($1.75 for a small) was nothing to complain about, the cookie ($2.50) was as hard as a rock – I was left wondering how long it had been sitting in the display case.

Coffee and (never again) cookie at Evelyn’s Again

After some satisfying time with a book, I did some window shopping. I passed by the cutest burger car, and a potential spot for lunch on a future visit – Shakes, a cafe that serves Bubble Tea, Nathan’s Famous Hot Dogs and Vietnamese subs – what versatility!

The Eddie burger Bug

Before departing Banff, Mack met up with me for lunch at The Bison, as I had been eager to try some of their more casual fare in the lounge. It was nearly a full house downstairs, and as a result, took the staff several minutes before acknowledging our presence. Our eventual server apologized for the wait, and after that, our experience was a smooth ride.

Even though the cheese and charcuterie board was incredibly tempting, we decided to split two hot entrees, with the hopes they would warm me up from my time outside. The bison chili ($9.95) was smaller than we anticipated, but great all the same – the meat had been finely ground and nicely seasoned, and even without intense heat, had great flavour. I only wished it had been served to us a touch warmer.

Bison chili with Sylvan Star cayenne gouda (the bread ‘n’ butter was mighty tasty too)

The baked mini potato skins, with a slice of venison pepperoni, Sylvan Star cayenne gouda and creme fraiche, were wonderful. Satisfyingly crispy on the outside, but perfectly cooked on the inside, the combination of the potato, meat and melted cheese was incredibly comforting, and was exactly what I needed at that moment.

Baked mini potato skins

Based on our other experience, I’d have to say I prefer the casual side of The Bison, if not only because I prefer the lounge menu and its casual atmosphere.

Thanks again for a great weekend, Banff – I’ll be back soon!

Saltlik
221 Bear Street, Banff, AB
(403) 762-2467

Evelyn’s Again (2 other locations)
119 Banff Avenue, Banff, AB
(403) 760-2907

The Bison
208 Bear Street, Banff, AB
(403) 762-5550

Montreal Smoked Heaven: Myhre’s Deli

On Friday, Mack was asked by fellow prominent Edmonton Next Gen-er Ken Bautista to join him on a social media panel at the Canadian Arts Summit, being held this year at The Banff Centre. With accommodations and travel taken care of, and no plans tying him to Edmonton for the weekend, how could he say no? I jumped right on board, eager for the opportunity to get away, and we were off.

We left on Saturday afternoon, and planned to stop somewhere in Calgary for lunch. The BlackBerry came in handy to look up hours of operation, and after some site surfing, we chose Myhre’s Deli (formerly The Palace of Eats), situated in the Beltline District. Galaxie Diner next door (operated by the same folks) is one of our favourite diners in Calgary, with their heaping portions, lively atmosphere and open kitchen. While waiting in line for a seat at Galaxie, we had some time to peer in the windows of the deli, which specialized in Montreal smoked meat sandwiches. It looked like something we had to come back to try eventually.

Myhre’s Deli

Myhre’s Deli is a small but warm restaurant, lined with comfortable, unpretentious wooden furniture, a retro-inspired wall menu, and furnished with an antique cash register. It was empty save for one table when we arrived, and without a soundtrack overhead, was a tad too quiet for my taste – almost completely opposite of our experience at Galaxie Diner.

In any case, the service was quick – we were presented with our order of 6 oz. regular ($10) and 8 oz. full ($12) Montreal smoked meat sandwiches nearly right away, slathered with our choice of a half dozen mustards. Contained in the same basket were tiny paper cups of lightly-dressed coleslaw and BBQ chips – it made for a nice presentation.

Our order

When we picked up the sandwich half, we found it to be absolutely stacked with sliced meat (from Quebec Smoked Meats). It was warm and so juicy that a single bite resulted in a cascade of moisture. The house blend mustard had quite an unexpected kick to it, but the refreshing coleslaw helped to calm down my palate. My only issue with the sandwich was the pick-out-of-your-teeth softness of the bread, though Mack thought that was chosen specifically to contrast the chewy texture of the meat.

A regular sandwich

With fast, efficient service and tasty sandwiches, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Myhre’s Deli. I just hope they crank up the music next time!

Myhre’s Deli
1411 11th St. SW, Calgary, AB
(403) 244-6602
Open daily 11am-4pm