Fresh Gastropub Flavours: Red Star Pub

Prior to attending the Edmonton Rush game on Friday, Mack and I met up with Thom and Lana at Red Star. A casual pub seemed to be a good spot to grab a drink and a bite to eat before taking in the lacrosse action, especially when we could just hop on the convenient LRT at Bay or Corona Stations to whisk us away to Rexall Place.

I was eager to try Red Star at some point, seeing as Chef Daniel Costa’s current standing as one of the city’s up-and-coming young kitchen stars, with recent profiles in the Journal and Parlour. I could see how his focus on elevating simple cuisine and fresh flavours could attract a loyal following.

Mack and I had expected the downtown after-work crowd to fill Red Star to the seams, but seeing as it felt like the first true spring day, most were probably filling the outdoor patio seats instead. The building that houses Red Star is also currently under renovations, the unfortunate consequence of this being that the businesses underneath are obscured by unsightly orange tarps, further screening natural light into the already dim space.

Thankfully, the exterior aesthetics didn’t seem to affect the service, or the light atmosphere inside the bar. We were greeted immediately by the server, who directed us to sit anywhere we wanted. We were promptly given food and drink menus (I loved the tag cloud-like design on the back of both of them). Red Star proudly advertises their large beer menu, featuring sixty different brews. In contrast, the food selection is limited to a dozen or so dishes, but given the advisory printed at the bottom (“This is a one man kitchen. Food is served when ready. Please be patient. Enjoy.”), that is entirely understandable. With its emphasis on local suppliers and slant towards comfort food share plates, I couldn’t help but be reminded of Sebastian Lysz’s last menu at Devlin’s. Mack and I had some difficulty deciding between the mini burgers/not sliders and the braised meatballs ($16), but ended up with the latter, as well as an order of gnudi ($16).

Food menu

We were primed to be patient for the food, but it seemed no one else in the pub was interested in anything other than drinks, so our plates arrived sooner than expected. The gnudi (dumplings made of ricotta cheese) were pillow-soft, and tossed with tomatoes and zucchini, made for a comforting, but not too heavy dish.

Gnudi

The tender, tasty meatballs, made with a blend of Pembina pork and Spring Creek Ranch beef, were the star. The greens really were the perfect accompaniment, adding a freshness that rounded out the dish nicely.

Braised meatballs

With an interesting menu starring fresh, local ingredients, how could I not be back? See you again, Red Star.

Red Star Pub
10534 Jasper Avenue
(780) 428-0825

5 thoughts on “Fresh Gastropub Flavours: Red Star Pub

  1. So glad you’ve discovered the joys of Red Star! I reviewed it on CBC and it was fantastic. Next time you go, you have to order the tomato crostini – they’re amazing.

  2. Debra – it definitely was!

    Isabelle – thanks for the tip! Tomato crostini would be great on a warm summer day…

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s