TMAC Alberta Retreat: Hotel MacDonald and Moriarty’s

A few months ago, I was asked to be a speaker at a retreat hosted by the Alberta Chapter of the Travel Media Association of Canada (TMAC), an organization made up of tourism industry professionals and journalists. I had met Susan Mate, a member of TMAC who was also on the organizing committee, last year. I had provided some information to her for an article she had written about Alberta’s culinary scene, and because of the group’s interest in food blogging, she asked if I would share my experience at the retreat.

I have done conference presentations for my day job in the past, but never about blogging. Turns out, it’s not difficult to speak about something you’re passionate about!

Speaking at the TMAC retreat

Coincidentally, they also wanted a speaker to address the topic of social media. Someone else on the conference committee had contacted Mack separately, and it was only a few days before the conference that they realized we were partners in crime, heh.

We were fortunate to be invited to join the rest of the activities that evening, arranged by Bin and Amy of the Edmonton Economic Development Corporation. We started out the night with a light reception at the Hotel MacDonald.

I had no idea the gazebo behind the hotel even existed! Apparently, it is often used for small private parties. When I commented about the number of patrons in the Confederation Lounge, hotel staff made mention of the fact that the Harvest Room had been closed since January due to ice damage, and is not set to reopen until October.

Inside the gazebo

There was a lovely spread of nibbles, but nothing I tried that night was as tasty as the saskatoon berry cocktail. It went down like Kool-Aid, and though one should have been enough, I couldn’t help myself, and had seconds.

Salmon tartare and crab cakes

Saskatoon cocktail

Next, we were split up into smaller parties for dinner at nearby restaurants, treated by EEDC. The plan was to regroup at the Winspear Centre for an Edmonton Symphony Orchestra concert. Mack and I had been assigned to Moriarty’s, one of EEDC’s partner restaurants.

The small table facilitated conversations nicely, and it was great getting to know the visitors from Calgary. Lucky for us, we even scored an introduction to Jelly Modern Doughnuts, the city’s hottest bakery, fortuitous especially because Mack would be heading down south the next week (hello, doughnuts!).

Everyone seemed to enjoy the selection of cocktails they had ordered, but I was a bit disappointed with the food. I have a soft spot for butternut squash ravioli, so was eager to try Moriarty’s version with maple cream sauce. Given it was a dish under “small plates”, I assumed that for $12 several small ravioli would be served, instead of a single large one. The filling was nice, creamy and light, but the pasta was a touch overcooked. The vanilla tulle was also an odd choice – its sweetness was off-putting.

Butternut squash ravioli

I also ordered a second small plate of meatballs ($8.50). Unlike its predecessor, this dish could easily be shared among diners. Although a puree of beets would have made more cohesive sense, the fried golden beet chips were a guilty, well-seasoned pleasure. The meatballs themselves were okay, but the sweet root beer glaze didn’t work for me, especially alongside the jarringly sour mushrooms.

Mushroom meatballs

Mack found similar inconsistencies with his chicken apple gnocchi ($19.50). He enjoyed the gnocchi, but found it much too greasy. He felt chicken breast would have worked better than chicken sausage. It also lacked an elegance expected in the restaurant’s surroundings – it could have been plated in a bowl, with some garnish, instead?

Chicken apple gnocchi

The table was saddened to find out that their premiere chocolate dessert, supplied by Duchess, was no longer available (they also weren’t able to provide us with a reason why). In its place, we ordered the French profiteroles ($10) and saskatoon and rhubarb tart ($11). The latter was the better of the two desserts, fresh and tart. The profiteroles suffered from age – a few commented that the pastry tasted dry and lacked the airiness of a good cream puff.

Saskatoon and rhubarb tart

French profiteroles

The service was solid throughout our meal, but based on past experiences, I expected the food to be better. I’d just hope for some more consistency from the kitchen next time.

Thanks again to TMAC for the invitation (and for EEDC for hosting) – I had a great time!

Moriarty’s
10154 100 Street
(780) 757-2005
Monday-Saturday 11:30am-close, closed Sunday

Upscale Casual on the Ave: Absolutely Edibles

For our final inter-agency committee meeting before the summer break, one of the groups I am involved in at work decided to have lunch together at Absolutely Edibles on 118 Avenue. I had passed by the pink stucco storefront before, but had no idea what was inside.

Absolutely Edibles is another great example of some of the hidden gems on the Avenue. In the catering business for six years, the couple behind Absolutely Edibles opened a full service restaurant this past March. It is a gorgeous space, with an interior and fixtures common in your average upscale casual joint, and not necessarily in this neighbourhood.

Interior

The menu is a large one, so in a group as diverse as ours, it would easily appeal to all appetites, with a great selection of share plates and casual entrees, including ten different burgers. Although the website claims to source a wide range of ingredients locally, I would have liked to have seen more explicit reference to which producers or businesses Absolutely Edibles has partnered with expressed on the menu.

I wouldn’t have been surprised if we were the largest party the restaurant had ever handled, as service wasn’t exactly smooth. To be fair, they were also training new staff, but at the end of our meal, left the rookie server alone to handle the payment end of things, something she had clearly never done before. I am optimistic things will improve with time, however.

Mandie and I decided to split the sweet potato skins ($6.95), and each also ordered the triple sliders ($10.95), featuring small versions of their elk, bison and kangaroo(!) burgers. It was the most popular dish around our table, as it would afford the opportunity to try several different burgers at once.

The sweet potato skins weren’t what we expected at all – I think Mandie and I both thought the dish would have been closer to a plate of cactus cut potatoes, topped with a variety of ingredients, but instead, individual sweet potato slices had been garnished with spicy cream cheese, spinach pesto and asiago. They were a bit bland, and I was hoping for a crispy underlay instead of what we received. The portion size was also small given the price.

Sweet potato skins

The burgers, on the other hand, were a better value. And though I didn’t anticipate having a full stomach with three tiny burgers, they were quite filling in the end.

Triple sliders

The elk burger was by far the best of the bunch – topped with smoked cheddar and prosciutto, it was flavourful. The kangaroo (which apparently had some beef mixed into the patty) wasn’t distinct, and though I didn’t think it was possible, the bacon that topped the burger was too crispy, to the point of being gristly in texture. Some of my colleagues around the table liked the lamb burger, which had a great concept, topped with a tzatiki sauce.

With their diverse menu and chic surroundings, I wouldn’t hesitate to return to Absolutely Edibles again. It’s a great addition to the neighbourhood, and with time, I’m sure their service will catch up to the potential of the restaurant.

Absolutely Edibles
9567A – 118 Avenue
(780) 424-6823 or (780) 477-2971
Monday – Wednesday 11am-9pm, Thursday – Saturday 11am-10pm, closed Sundays

Night and Day: Five Guys

Looking back, one of my most vivid food memories from our visit to Washington two years ago was a late night dinner at Five Guys. On the plane ride to DC, we had overhead pilots discussing what they would be eating after they landed – Five Guys was their food of choice.

That first night, we wandered over to Georgetown, a bit disoriented, but eager to explore the neighbourhood, and finally came upon Five Guys. It was dimly lit, and truth be told, a bit of a dive, with peanut shells littering the floor in a restaurant showing signs of wear and tear – but the welcome we received was second to none. If the staff didn’t enjoy their jobs, they did an excellent job of hiding it, with orders being taken and hollered out, reminiscent of Fatburger, doling out efficient yet friendly service. Signs proudly labelled the origin of the day’s potatoes (Idaho), while open boxes of peanuts were strewn throughout the dining area, a thumb against the movement of nut-free zones. While the burgers were good (not great), our meal was forever coloured by the reception we received – and the environment it was consumed in. So when we visited the first Five Guys location in the Edmonton area at the end of May, it’s no surprise that Mack and I would be drawing comparisons to our DC experience.

Unlike the Georgetown location, tucked in a thoroughly walkable neighbourhood resplendent with historic walk-ups and charming boutiques, the Sherwood Park Five Guys was almost the opposite, situated in a sea of box stores and strip malls along Fir Street.

Interior

The contrast didn’t end there. Where the DC Five Guys was comfortably worn around the edges, this Five Guys was understandably new and squeaky clean (I did appreciate the open kitchen though – there’s nothing more reassuring than having the option of seeing your food prepared in front of you). Sacks of potato bags and boxes of peanut oil were used as a divider of sorts at the order counter, adding a bit of fun to the otherwise standard quick-serve décor. I also liked the bulletin boards where customers were invited to draw a message about their love of Five Guys.

Open kitchen

Bulletin love

Mack doesn’t appreciate peanut oil

The boxes of peanuts that Five Guys is so known for was relegated to the tops of the trash bins. We made sure to have a nutty appetizer.

Bulk peanuts served in open containers

Mack + peanuts?

My parents appreciated the extensive toppings menu offered by Five Guys, all at no extra cost. It’s a value add that aligns Five Guys with places like Rodeo Burger and Fulton Market).

I don’t know what happened though, as neither Mack, my parents, or myself read the fine print on the menu, and all ended up ordering regular burgers. A regular at Five Guys includes not one, but two beef patties (note to self: order the “little” next time). Needless to say, there was no need for the two large fries we also ordered.

My burger

The burgers were pretty good – thin patties, soft bread, and packed with our chosen fixings, they were satisfying, if not overkill because of our blind ordering. As a whole, compared with Rodeo Burger and Fulton Market, I have to say I enjoyed the Five Guys burger more.

Mack’s burger

The fries, however, were far from crispy. Fried in peanut oil, Mack wasn’t certain he should be indulging in the fries, but the rest of us were a) too overwhelmed by our double burgers and b) not enjoying the limp fries. The Cajun seasoning may have helped with the flavour, but not with the texture (we couldn’t recall whether or not the fries in DC had been made using peanut oil).

Fries

This location of Five Guys is too far out of the way for us to visit on a regular basis, but if we were looking for a quick bite to eat, we’d consider coming back.

Five Guys
993 Fir Road, Sherwood Park
(780) 416-7710

Birthday Brunch: Bistro La Persaud

May had told me that she had a good brunch experience at Bistro La Persaud, so I thought it might be a nice place to take Grandma Male for her birthday. The restaurant has garnered quite the reputation in the blogosphere for dinner, but I hadn’t read much about its brunch offerings. Still, based on its standing alone, I was quite certain we’d be in for a quality meal.

Bistro La Persaud patio

I had made a reservation for our party of three, but it wasn’t necessary. Though it took us a few wrong turns to finally make it to the restaurant (the signage wasn’t clear that the eatery was, in fact, at the bottom of the stairs), we found ourselves in a dining room with two other parties.

The space, modern in shades of steel and red, looked great at first glance. The artwork (including a stunning painting of the Edmonton skyline alight with colour by Con Boland) were also great choices. But after a while, both Mack and I felt that there was something faintly institutional about the room. We were only able to articulate it later that day – it was the fluorescent lights, likely a carry over from the campus design. Though it didn’t impact our experience (because of the flood of natural light from the open patio), it did make us wonder about the setting for evening meals.

The menu items have a familiar brunch air to them, but with a refinement that we weren’t used to. For example, instead of a diner-style French toast, meant to be slathered in butter and drenched in syrup, the La Persaud version is served with foie gras morsels and cherry verjus compote. Grandma Male and Mack both opted for the eggs benedict ($15), while I was swayed by the eggs ravioli ($16), something I’d never seen on any menu before.

Included in our meal were warm(!) croissants and corn muffins served with red pepper jelly and a lovely jam, along with an adorable pot of fruits in a light syrup. It felt like a little gift!

Warm croissants and cornbread

Fruit

Our food arrived in good time, but we wished our server had been a little more consistent with the coffee refills. Mack wasn’t sure how he would eat his towering stack of egg and bread, but after cutting into it, he realized the bread was softer than it first appeared. The eggs were soft poached, as promised, and he loved the lavender hollandaise as well. He didn’t care for the salmon mousse, though.

Eggs benedict

My eggs ravioli were as elegant as I expected, garnished with microgreens (is it just me, or have microgreens come back in a fierce way?). The truffle & brown butter sauce was delicious, soaked into the morels underneath the ravioli. I was hoping the ravioli yolk would be a little less cooked (they were medium and not soft poached), but as a whole, I enjoyed the dish.

Eggs ravioli

At the end of our meal, we were given another small treat – chocolate truffles!

A sweet ending

In all, our meal at Bistro La Persaud was pleasant. Based on this experience, I’d definitely be back for dinner.

Bistro La Persaud
11821 145 Street
(780) 455-1888
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-3pm; Dinner: Tuesday-Sunday 5pm-close; Brunch: Sunday 11am-3pm

Walk it Off: La Poutine

Some restaurants like the Copper Pot or La Ronde draw in diners partly based on the views that they boast, but what about establishments that can play up the view en route?

All the talk of poutine at the CHG Top Chef competition on Saturday got Mack and I thinking about finally going to try La Poutine across the river (in an area apparently now referred to as “The Bridge District”). And on a beautiful evening after such a long, hard winter, we couldn’t really justify any mode of transportation besides our own two feet.

Running man!

The mosquitoes were pests to be reckoned with, but they were worth tackling in order to be reminded of how beautiful our city really is. We always mean to trek across the High Level Bridge, but it’s not something we do that often – but we should.

Coke slushees – my guilty summer pleasure

Sunbursts

Follow the trail

We arrived at La Poutine just before a long lined flowed out the door – the attendant indicated that it had been busy since they opened that afternoon. With their prime location near the University, residential towers and the Whyte Avenue bar scene, it’s not hard to think their focus on poutine would be a sure thing.

Offering over fifteen varieties in two different sizes, La Poutine joins places like Battista’s Calzones and Soul Soup that have chosen to specialize in just one item. So their success, in addition to location, also hinges on how well their poutine is executed.

Sizes

We opted to try their traditional poutine with the beef-based sauce ($5.95), as well as the Quebecois poutine featuring Montreal smoked meat with the traditional sauce ($7.50).

There are a few bar-style seats in the tiny storefront, but we opted for roadside seating. We appreciated their use of paper-based containers (instead of styrofoam), but we wondered why they didn’t continue the environmentally-friendly theme with corn or other plant-based cutlery.

Roadside dinner

The cheese curds were authentically squeaky, and the gravy actually hot enough to partially melt through them. Between the two gravies, we preferred the rich beef version; we found the traditional was too salty.

Traditional

Though both of us were hesitant about the Montreal smoked meat addition, it was a bit of a revelation for us. Paired with the mustard, it added an extra layer of flavour that elevated the poutine to a gourmet level.

Quebecois

Mack and I agreed that the Cheese Factory was more generous when it came to portion sizes and doling out of curds, but in terms of accessibility of location and hours, La Poutine can’t be beat. As Twyla indicated, walking off the poutine is highly recommended. And when the view is spectacular, all the better.

High Level

At the Legislature grounds

Bridges (Mack’s money shot!)

La Poutine
8720 109 Street
Monday-Wednesday 11am-10pm, Thursday 11am-11pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-2am, Sunday, 11am-8pm

Pedestrian-friendly Snack: Crepeworks

When group discount site Good News burst onto the scene back in January, their initial deal couldn’t be beat. Crepeworks had sponsored an introductory offer that would allow shoppers to snag one of the crepes (retail value $5-8) for just $1. And best of all, in keeping with the Good News policy of donating at least some of the funds to a local charity, all of the money collected would actually go towards the Edmonton Food Bank. Talk about win-win.

Unfortunately, Good News announced their withdrawal from Edmonton a short time after (one would imagine operating with the current landscape of multiple deal sites would be a very competitive one), but coupons purchased would still be honoured.

After the Jane’s Walk on Saturday, I ducked into Crepeworks for a break, hungry after the tour and a trip through the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market.

Though Crepeworks has been in Edmonton since 2002 with an outlet inside West Edmonton Mall, this was my first experience with them. The same carnival-esque, plastic crepe display graces this location as well, and for whatever reason, it’s hard not to like the whimsy of it. It reminded me very much of the “food” I cooked up as a child in those pint-sized play kitchens.

Display

The benefit, of course, is that customers know exactly what they are getting, down to the plastic drizzle of sauce. Based on the display, I opted for a chicken Caesar crepe.

Made to order

My crepe was made and assembled to order, the employee skilfully using a flat spatula to artfully fold the crepe so it fit perfectly inside a paper cone. In this way, Crepeworks is an especially great addition for Whyte, which can now add crepes to its portfolio of portable foods including pizza, hot dogs and ice cream, all meant to be consumed on the street.

Portable crepe

The crepe, containing chicken, romaine, Caesar salad dressing, parmesan and a dusting of “bacon” bits, was actually not bad. The crepe itself had a slightly chewy texture, and was fairly neutral in taste – I could see how it would work equally well with sweet and savoury flavours.

Chicken Caesar crepe

If not for the coupon though, I’m not sure I would have found value in the crepe. At nearly $7, I would expect it to fill the void of a meal, instead of just a snack, as I was hungry a few hours later. On future trips, I’d much rather indulge in a dessert crepe, preferably outside, while walking down Whyte.

Crepeworks
10352 82 Avenue
(780) 484-7975
Monday-Thursday 10am-9pm, Friday-Saturday 10am-11pm, Sunday 11am-7pm

Fourth Time’s the Charm: The Cheese Factory

Back in December, I needed to secure a reservation for one of my teams (20 staff in all) for a Christmas lunch. One of my colleagues recommended The Cheese Factory, and it worked out beautifully. Our entire group pre-ordered so our food arrived almost immediately after we were seated. As a result, we were able to enjoy our meal but still return to the office in a timely fashion.

It was at that lunch that I first encountered their poutine. Given the affiliation Mack and I have for cheesy, gravy-strapped fries, I know it is quite inexcusable that we had overlooked The Cheese Factory for so long. That said, after one bite into their delightfully squeaky cheese (I honestly had no idea cheese could actually squeak!), I knew I’d be returning, with Mack in tow.

Four months later, we finally made it back together (and not for lack of trying – this was our forth attempt after being thwarted by their hours, a holiday closure, and an illness…we were almost ready to give up!). Those unable to get to the restaurant during the daytime should note that they only extend service into the evening on Friday and Saturday. But calling ahead is recommended – sporadic and extended holiday closures are not uncommon, as we encountered.

We dined on a Saturday evening, among two other parties already in the restaurant. It was quiet, in a pleasant sort of way, where the space provided by the server made it seem all the more intimate (and really, in our world, poutine is our Lady and the Tramp spaghetti equivalent). Our server was great though – she was friendly, prompt and made us feel like regulars.

Interior

We split an order of burek ($7.99), a dish made of phyllo pastry stuffed with spiced ground beef (though a vegetarian feta and spinach version can also be had). I have been told that The Cheese Factory makes their phyllo from scratch, and that attention to quality helps make this a savoury, flaky, perfectly seasoned marvel.

Burek

But of course, the main reason for our visit: poutine! The Cheese Factory offers five different kinds, all topped with their fresh, house-made cheese curds (if you come early enough in the day, you can watch the cheesemakers at their craft from behind the glass). The varieties include ground beef, chicken and galvaude (chicken and green peas). We opted to share a small regular poutine ($5.99), and a small Italian poutine ($6.99).

Boy, does The Cheese Factory honour their name – the curds were piled high (with a fry to curd ratio of 2:1), and stood up, in all its squeaky glory, to the poutine sauce. The fries were hot and fried to order too. Mack’s only quibble was a personal preference for a thicker gravy.

Poutine

The Italian poutine was interesting. We both liked the tomato sauce – not too tart, with a thick, chunky consistency. It was also thick enough that it clung and did not steep into the fries, ensuring every bite to the last was crispy. Still, we did prefer the classic poutine – there’s something about the salt that’s a necessary part of the experience!

Italian poutine

On our way out, we saw a couple making a beeline back home with their take-out poutine bounty. I can imagine that might be in the cards for us as well, given it might be a more solid bet than trying to have a sit-down dinner in the restaurant. But next up, in the poutine line of things, will be La Poutine.

The Cheese Factory
8943 82 Avenue
(780) 450-2143
Monday-Thursday 11am-4pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm, closed Sunday

Ladies who Lunch: Queen of Tarts

Annie and I got together for lunch over the long weekend at the Queen of Tarts. She hadn’t been to the charming bakery and cafe before, and though I’ve been popping in sporadically since it opened to satisfy our needs and cravings (bread and sweets, respectively), I hadn’t yet sampled their lunch menu.

The lunch crowd was steady at Queen of Tarts – not surprising because the bright and airy room is the sort of space made for leisurely weekend afternoons. The French-inspired menu is short but accessible, with the cafe taking full advantage of their bread case and pastry expertise.

Dining area

I chose the croque monsieur ($14.95), made with local ham, béchamel, dijon mustard and gruyere on miche bread and served with organic greens. I probably could have done with a third piece of croque monsieur (who can pass up melted cheese and ham?), but I will admit that the mustard layer was a bit too potent for me – especially because the vinaigrette atop the salad was also mustard-based.

Croque monsieur

Annie chose the day’s special, a French onion soup served with a side of organic greens ($12.95). Her soup was absolutely packed with onions; she also commented on their sweetness, a testament to their lengthy cooking time.

French onion soup

Though the portion sizes are modest, it did mean adding a dessert course to our lunch (not something we normally do) was possible. We shared a pot of Earl Grey tea ($6.95), a thunder brownie ($3) and a chocolate dacquoise ($3.50).

Dessert!

The rich, decadent thunder brownie has crossed my paths many a time (it’s Amanda’s favourite dessert), but it was Annie’s first encounter with it. She appreciated its chocolate depth. The dacquoise, on the other hand, was new to both of us, and surprised us with its delicate meringue sandwich. Its texture was absolutely perfect – just the right amount of chew and sweetness, enhanced with a thin layer of chocolate in between.

The Queen of Tarts started offering high tea this past Friday, and will run daily until May 7, 2011 (with 10% of proceeds being directed to The Bissell Centre). After that, the high teas will be held on a monthly basis. Based on this lunch experience, I would be happy to return again to check out their high tea – especially if I can find a way to work in a dacquoise into the meal.

Queen of Tarts Bakery & Bistro
10129 104 Street
(780) 421-4410
Tuesday-Wednesday 9am-6pm, Thursday-Friday 9am-8pm, Saturday 8:30am-6pm, closed Sunday & Monday

Let’s Meat for Lunch: Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse

A belated birthday lunch, compounded over three months, can only equal one thing: reparation in the form of a gloriously gluttonous meat buffet.

Well, that’s not entirely true. I’m pretty sure Dickson only chose Brazilian steakhouse Pampa, the newest darling of city carnivores, as our lunch destination as a reaction to my suggestion of a vegetarian café. Regardless, the more inexpensive daytime meal seemed like the ideal way to determine whether or not the $45 per person dinner tab would be worth the splurge (you can read more about the dinner service on Twyla’s blog).

Pampa is the kind of restaurant that makes a bang-up first impression (and one that, all shiny and new, would present very well in that patented then-and-now camera pan on Food Network renovation shows like The Opener, which Pampa took part in). The glass wine case gleamed in the muted daylight that streamed through the bank of windows, and the black, white and red scheme felt modern and clean. I loved how open the room felt (necessary too for the roving servers), and Dickson felt the need to comment on the large cowboy canvases that graced the walls – a reminder that vegetarians really need not apply.

Interior

I had made a reservation on Open Table just in case, but it probably wasn’t necessary. And though the restaurant wasn’t entirely full, I was still surprised at how busy it was – I had to wonder if the patrons were return customers, or curious first-time diners like us?

Both Dickson and I were already familiar with the rodizio restaurant – he has been to both Gaucho and Bolero in Calgary, and I had visited one several years ago in Montreal. Essentially, itinerant servers offering different cuts of meat will continue to pay a visit to your table until you flip your meat passport over to signal “Stop the pain!”.

Yay or nay?

Before launching into Pampa’s universe of meat though, we thought it best to at least peruse its salad offerings. It’s worth noting that Pampa does have a beautiful salad bar, accented with more glass, and garnished with touches of fruit. Some of the bowls were in need of refreshing during our turn, but there was enough variety of vegetable and grain-based dishes to satisfy most. A very unique carrot and pink peppercorn salad stood out for me.

Salad bar

But the main event began almost immediately after we sat down. Lunch sees only five different varieties, and we had our initial exposure to them, one right after the other – grilled chicken, grilled pork, pork sausage and two kinds of sirloin. I know Dickson was disappointed with the spread – friends who had attended the dinner service the night prior had identified a few of their favourites, none of which were on the menu at lunch.

The house-made pork sausage was quite tasty, with a casing that crackled and meat that was both juicy and well seasoned. I liked the grilled chicken, but Dickson thought it wasn’t anything he couldn’t recreate at home on the barbecue. The pork had to be consumed immediately – I waited a few minutes and it had dried to the point of inedibility.

Our hands down favourite was the picanha, top sirloin. Not for the faint of heart, it was served rare, with a layer of fat and a perfectly charred crust, studded with sea salt gems. We had thirds and fourths.

Carving is an art form

Our only complaint was the inconsistency in service. The servers were almost too efficient during our first half hour, and basically disappeared towards the last half of our meal. It was clear other tables were similarly drumming their fingers, hoping they wouldn’t have to return to the salad bar to fill up. I suppose that is the biggest downside when it comes to lunching at Pampa – it’s not a leisurely meal when you’re depending on traveling servers for main course access.

That said, I felt the $21.95 per person price tag was fair, given the salad bar bounty, amount of meat that could be consumed, and the tableside carving. Pampa had an atmosphere I wouldn’t mind returning for, and definitely has the workings of a special occasion restaurant. And in the end, being the first rodizio in Edmonton has its advantages – you won’t find this style of dining anywhere else in the city.

Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse
9929 – 109 Street
(780) 756-7030
Lunch: Mon – Fri 11:30am – 1:30pm; Dinner: Monday-Saturday 5-10pm; closed Sundays

The Lunch Option: Hardware Grill

Two Christmases ago, Mack’s parents gave us a gift card to Hardware Grill. It was particularly thoughtful because the four of us had shared a wonderful meal there a few months prior. We had always intended on putting the gift card towards lunch at the restaurant, but didn’t work to sync our schedules until last week (it helped that I had a meeting in the same neighbourhood right after lunch).

Hardware Grill, for many reasons, has the distinction of being Edmonton’s finest restaurant. It is also the only restaurant in recent memory that Mack and I had to think twice about before deciding on what to wear – jeans or no jeans? Even though it was daytime on a Friday, we opted against denim. We discovered upon arrival that casual attire was acceptable; the suits were few, and there were numerous parties dressed in their Friday best.

The warmth of the dining room is apparent, regardless of the time of day, but I think I might actually like the room better at lunch, if not only because of the natural light, and the almost buoyant atmosphere.

Interior

We don’t normally order starters for lunch, but armed with a gift card, we threw caution to the wind. It’s always difficult for me to pass up French onion soup ($8) when I see it on the menu, and I was glad I gave in. The most amazing thing about the rich, subtly sweet dish was the bread – though submerged for the better part of the fifteen minutes it took for me to finish the soup, it did not dissolve into a soggy mess, and instead, retained its chewy, dense texture. The portion size could have also easily made this a light lunch in itself.

French onion soup

Mack’s romaine a la Caesar ($10) was equally well received, plated with care, and robed with a garlicky smooth dressing that could convince anyone that Caesar dressing from a bottle should not be tolerated.

Romaine a la Caesar

It was a wonder I was able to finish any part of my main at all, but I did my best, especially because the beef bourguignon ($20) was well worth the effort. The short ribs were fork tender (it was a definite sign when our server did not replace my butter knife with a steak knife), and the black coffee BBQ sauce hit all the right notes (and if the recipe isn’t a guarded secret, it should be). At first, I wasn’t sure about the inclusion of roasted corn kernels in the mashed potatoes, but it won me over in the end – the sweetness and unexpected pop cut through the richness. Mack also enjoyed helping himself to the slices of crispy pork belly off my plate.

Beef bourguignon

Mack had been waiting all week for the truffled mac ‘n cheese with baby lobster and shiitakes ($16). It was definitely not your diner mac ‘n cheese, baked and bubbling in a muted ceramic dish – this was its elegant, refined older sister, down to the use of ribbed shells. The sauce was much thinner than Mack had expected, but he enjoyed it all the same, and thought it was the perfect size.

Truffled mac ‘n cheese

It was a very pleasant meal – everything was well paced, and our server was professional but gracious. The prices are also quite reasonable, and would be a great option for those wanting to try Hardware Grill on more inexpensive terms.

Though I can’t see myself visiting Hardware Grill for lunch all that often, I could see myself returning now and again – especially for the beef bourguignon. Thanks again to Martin and Patti for the gift certificate!

Hardware Grill
9698 Jasper Avenue
(780) 423-0969
Lunch: Monday-Friday, 11:30am-2pm; Dinner: Monday-Friday 5-10pm, Saturday 5-10:30pm, closed Sundays

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