Lingering the Night Away: The Secret Garden at The Dish

Restaurants, as of late, have never been the destination. For us, eating out has been a bridge to some other event, a necessary evil prior to another engagement. As a result, we haven’t had a meal in quite some time where we could linger, relax, and simply soak up the ambiance. Last Friday presented an opportunity to do that, and we made the most of it.

We’ve been to The Dish a few times, but its Secret Garden, accessible only by a separate entrance, was never made apparent to us. We walked past its concealed gate a few weeks ago, and after peeking in to discover a hidden terrace bursting with romance and greenery, resolved to return before autumn fully reared its head.

Mack called ahead to make a reservation, which ensured us a cozy table under the twinkle lights, next to the lone tree that seemed simultaneously out of place and yet right at home. From the overhead rafters hung baskets of plants, infusing the space with a touch nature so sorely lacking on many other patios in the city.

Mack in the Secret Garden

As the sky darkened to dusk and then nightfall, staff brought out tabletop candles for each party as hushed conversations continued amongst the serenity. It was a lovely setting in which to wind down after a long work week.

The food was pitch perfect as well, straightforward and comforting. I was again swayed by their deep dish quiche ($14), this time featuring chicken, artichoke hearts, Portobello mushrooms, asiago, brie and cream cheese. Mack opted for their meatball flatbread ($15), and we both decided on a side of creamy tomato and basil soup.

The soup was a little too tangy for me, though it suited Mack’s palate just fine. My quiche was as I had expected, the crisp and flaky crust and dense baked egg being exactly what I was looking for. Mack’s flatbread, however, won the entrée sweepstakes that night, with the flavourful herb-flecked meatballs stealing the show.

Deep Dish Quiche

Meatball Flatbread

Portions at The Dish are modest, meaning that while leftovers are usually out of the question, having room for dessert is a distinct possibility. Over coffee, we pondered our options, and settled on the phyllo lemon tart. After receiving our phyllo-encrusted dish, we realized puff pastry might have been the better choice for ease of separating the crust from the serving vessel, but the custard, which manoeuvred between sweet and tart with ease, accented with the smooth whipped cream and biting raspberries, made up for it.

Phyllo Lemon Tart

Service was warm but not overly attentive, but it suited the relaxed mood of the patio. I would imagine, however, that as most parties seemed to be of the lingering sort, the level of staff attentiveness might have been an adaptation to the clientele.

Our coffee mugs were refilled as we finished the last of the dessert and relished the freedom of our open schedule that evening. Though we may not have the opportunity to do it again for a while, I’m glad were able to whittle the night away at the Secret Garden before the end of summer.

At dusk

The Dish (Secret Garden hours are dependent on the weather – call ahead)
12417 Stony Plain Road
(780) 488-6641
Monday-Saturday 11am-9pm

Culinary Q & A with Liane Faulder

Occupation:  Journalist

What did you eat today?

I had granola with strawberries and raspberries for breakfast and a cheese sandwich with a side of organic carrots from Sparrow’s Nest for lunch, plus an apple and a glass of milk.

What do you never eat?

Liver, unless it’s in pate.

What is your personal specialty?

I make a buttermilk chocolate cake with a gooey fudge icing for all family birthdays and it is, if I do say so myself, quite a hit.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find: 

organic eggs, because they taste better.

What is your weekday meal standby?

Because I eat out a lot for work, I often like a simple bowl of home-made soup for supper. I always have a couple of different kinds in the freezer. Right now there is a Portuguese Green Soup. Chef Lino from Sabor Davino gave me the recipe and I just love it. I’ve also got a Fennel and Potato Soup in the freezer, made with a recipe from The Moosewood Cookbook.

What is your favourite kitchen item?

This changes regularly. I just bought a beautiful larchwood cheese board from Janice Beaton‘s cheese shop in Calgary, so that’s sitting proudly on my counter top and I’m planning a nice charcuterie for the next time I have people over. I also love my Braun food processor and my waffle iron.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

One of my mother’s Sundays suppers with a standing rib roast of beef and Yorkshire pudding,  draped in  hot gravy, and her fresh apple pie for dessert.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

One of my regular spots is Culina in Mill Creek, partly because it’s in my neighbourhood and partly because I love the combination of good food, a cozy atmosphere, reasonable prices and friendly service. And I love the wine bar down the street, Passa Tempo, which is also owned by Culina chef Brad Lazarenko and his partner Ed Donszelmann. The bartender at Passa Tempo, Diana, sets the tone. She manages to be both sophisticated, and down-to-earth, in her approach.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

This changes from time to time, depending on my most recent experiences. I’ve eaten a couple of pretty so-so meals at very expensive restaurants in Edmonton, so I don’t think that eating at one of the better restaurants in the city necessarily guarantees a top meal every time. Right now my favourite restaurant, however, is The Blue Pear. I think Chef Darcy Radies does a dynamite job of coming up with creative combinations and flat-out surprising flavours, and I really like the prix-fixe concept. I think Viphalay is the best place in town for Thai food.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I’d eat some fresh bread, along with some cheese and pate from one of the small shops along the Rue Montorgueil in Paris.

Liane’s weekly food column can be found in the Bistro section of the Edmonton Journal every Wednesday. She also blogs at Eat My Words.

Food Notes for September 21, 2009

The television season officially started again, with the premiere of House. It was a fantastic episode to boot! Anyone else hungry for new shows? On to this week’s food notes:

  • A reminder that the Great Potato Giveaway is on this Saturday, September 26 at Norbest Farms. Who wouldn’t want fifty pounds of free potatoes?
  • I read about a new bakery called Old Bread Factory on Foodosophy. From the looks of the scrumptious desserts offered there, I will have to make an effort to swing by to pick up my own box of sweet goods soon.
  • The Cocoa Room is open again after the summer break, although under a new name – Kerstin’s Chocolates! Kerstin’s hopes the change will result in less confusion.
  • James from Transcend wrote a post last week about the surprisingly collaborative nature of the specialty coffee community. Good to know.
  • DeVine’s is offering a free spirits tasting on October 2 from 4-7pm. Donations will be gratefully accepted for the Alberta Council of Women’s Shelters.
  • Is a local food supply network a possibility on the horizon? I hope so.
  • On that note – the USDA’s “Know Your Farmer, Know your Food” initiative sounds great, though I know sometimes these things could just be about throwing money without sense of where it is actually going.
  • I have been hearing so much about Portland lately – about how they are the model city for sustainability, planning, and liveability. And just this weekend, the NYT included a feature article about their supposedly incredible food scene. Is Portland too good to be true? My scanning abilities have failed me again – I didn’t realize they were talking about Portland, Maine.
  • Everything you wanted to know about burger classification and more – but be warned, don’t click on it if you’re hungry.
  • I’m in the middle of Frank Bruni’s memoir Born Round, and after his umpteenth description of a ravenous Italian meal with his family, I couldn’t take it anymore and had to make the only dish I knew that could satisfy my craving for pasta to gorge over: Giada’s stuffed shells with arrabbiata sauce. Yum.

 

Stuffed Shells with Arrabbiata Sauce

The Cooking Chronicles: Curried Lentils with Potatoes

My Mum introduced Mack and I to Spice Centre (9280 34 Avenue, 780-440-3334) in Little India the other day. The impetus for this visit was a desire to pick up some lentils for an earmarked recipe of Curried Lentils with Potatoes in Mark Bittman’s Food Matters (here is a very similar recipe from another one of his cookbooks), another one of our “meat alternative” ventures.

What we found, beyond a great assortment of dried lentils and beans, was a fabulous selection of spices. With each small packet priced from $1.49-$2.99, we couldn’t resist stocking up. I mention this because their red chili powder was more potent than any other we’ve ever tried – we made the mistake of adding the usual amount to a tried-and-true chili recipe…and ended up with a dish so spicy I teared up at first bite. Needless to say, we won’t be making that blind measurement mistake again.

Anyway, Bittman’s recipe is a keeper – super easy, and served with rice, makes a comforting meal. The potatoes become fall-apart tender, and the lentils add an earthiness to the dish. And like most curry recipes, it involves the addition of coconut milk – when simmering on the stove, there is no aroma more welcome in my kitchen. Bittman does provide a variation involving chicken, which Mack would have preferred, and myself, having been brought up on curries containing green beans, would add that for an additional vegetable boost.

Curried Lentils with Potatoes

As the nights cool down, I’d suggest you stock your pantry and have this recipe handy as a go-to cold weather meal.

The Cooking Chronicles: Cold-Brewed Coffee

I made a mental note to try the cold-brewing method to make iced coffee as mentioned on Julie van Rosendaal’s blog this summer. Leave it to me to put it off until mid-September.

I loved Julie’s suggestion of using a French press to do the grunt work, eliminating the need to strain and filter the coffee separately. So after grinding some Transcend coffee we had in the house, I combined 2/3 of a cup of ground beans with 3 cups of water, and let the mixture sit in the press on the counter overnight. In the morning, I refrigerated the mixture after pressing the silt down – nothing to it.

Julie recommends a 1:1 diluting of the concentrated mixture with water or milk, or to simply pour it over ice. We went with the latter suggestion. However, having enjoyed more than our share of heavily-sweetened Starbucks iced coffees, both Mack and I have ended up with a need for sugar to override the bitterness. So I quickly made up a batch of simple syrup, and used a spoonful or two to help balance the iced joe.

Iced coffees in our drinking jars

The result was a great patio drink – not too strong, but not watered down. And best of all – so easy to make!

Eat Until You Burst: T. Pot China Bistro

Craving dim sum in Calgary, my family (and Mack) hit up T. Pot China Bistro on Felicia’s recommendation. I was a bit leery if not only because of the name (any Chinese restaurant that attaches “bistro” at the end of it wouldn’t appear to be the most economical).

Though we had an idea that the restaurant was in northwest Calgary, we didn’t realize just how far north until the drive. We were nearly into Airdrie when we hit the small retail area that contained, among other shops, a T & T.

T. Pot is not much to look at from the outside, being a generic big box. But it was quite lovely on the inside, with beaded curtains, crystal chandeliers and cushy high-backed chairs. And while their dim sum wasn’t the fun push cart kind, a few staff members wielded plastic trays as their push cart-equivalent, and offered us plates of food from their arms.

Interior

The area to the back of the restaurant where we were placed steadily filled up during our visit, but was never completely packed, unlike the other dining area separated from us by a median. Items were priced from $3.99 to $5.99, which are above the norm, but once the dishes started to arrive, we understood why: we were either given double the quantity normally provided, or items were twice the size of those commonly seen. Case in point, the steamed shrimp dumplings ($4.99):

Shrimp Dumplings

Standout dishes for me included Chinese doughnut wrapped with rice crepe and the pan-fried pork dumplings. Overall, we were pretty impressed with the quality of the dishes. Here are just a few of the plates we ordered:

Chinese Doughnut Wrapped with Rice Crepe (served on one side with some oddly paired peanut sauce)

Rice Crepe with BBQ Pork

Bean Curd

Coconut Buns

Pork and Shrimp Dumplings

Pan-fried Dumplings (beautifully arranged to boot!)

Deep Fried Pork Dumplings

Needless to say, we all ate until we nearly burst, and still ended up with leftovers. Ordering by paper always seems to have that effect – T. Pot China Bistro: 1, Yeo Family and Mack: 0

I’m glad we had the opportunity to try out the restaurant – I’d recommend it for dim sum off the beaten path in Calgary!

T. Pot China Bistro
100, 9650 Harvest Hills Blvd. NE
Calgary, AB
(403) 532-3982

Food Notes for September 14, 2009

You may have read on Mack’s blog that Twestival Local 2009 raised $565 for the Youth Emergency Shelter Society – thanks to everyone who came out! On another fundraising note, Mack and I will both be participating in the AIDS Walk for Life on Sunday. Brittney wrote an awesome post for “Team Sharon” last week – please consider sponsoring either myself or Mack. On to this week’s food notes:

  • Congrats to Chad and Josh from Transcend who placed third and fourth, respectively, in the Prairie Regional Barista Championships this weekend in Calgary. They’ll both be at nationals!
  • Nate Box’s new endeavour in the space that was previously Hulbert’s will be called Elm Cafe (7601 115 Street), and will be open for three meals a day. Look for it (fingers crossed) in mid-October.
  • Kelly posted about a new Indian restaurant on the city’s burgeoning southwest side called Zaika Indian Bistro. Looks sleek.
  • Christopher Thrall (who formerly edited and contributed to Vue Weekly’s Dish section) is Metro‘s Edmonton Urban Foodie – I look forward to seeing your reviews every Thursday, Chris! Meanwhile, food blogger Andree Lau has taken up Metro Calgary’s Urban Foodie post.
  • September 15 is the last day to get early bird admission tickets for the upcoming Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival, running November 5-7.
  • Vue Weekly had an article about Belle Valley Farms, an alpaca farm in Alberta – I’m not sure we’ll be seeing the demand go up just yet, but I’d be willing to try more of it.
  • Chris LaBossiere wrote a thought-provoking post about a potential redevelopment plan for the land currently occupied by the Valley Zoo. He suggests turning the area into a world-class community garden with teaching spaces for school children and culinary arts students alike.
  • Can a steakhouse be sustainable? An interesting question for Alberta, where steakhouses are a dime a dozen.
  • I had no idea Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups taste different depending on which side of the border they’re sold. Sounds like we Canucks have the better kind, though.
  • Can you say lunch envy? Some chef’s children have it good – I wish I had such good lunches when I was a kid.
  • Julie & Julia author Julie Powell’s new book seems even more contrived than the chapter excerpt I read, at least according to this Eater post.
  • Browsing in Damon J in Old Strathcona last week, I was handed a coupon book called Cheque Out Whyte. In it are some pretty sweet coupons, including a $15 “cheque” for Devlin’s, and a $10 “cheque” for Packrat Louie. It’s a neat promotion for area businesses to collectively offer.

Cheque Out Whyte

  • Just off Whyte (in the strip mall with Henry and Shoppers Drug Mart), I spotted a forthcoming restaurant called Taiwan Express. It will offer bubble tea, along with Taiwanese dishes.

Taiwan Express

  • A few of us helped May celebrate her birthday two weekend ago. We had dinner at Wildflower Grill, one of my favourite restaurants in the city. I have to say I wasn’t as enthralled with this experience as with past meals, and much of that had to do with our waiter, who was much too pushy with alcohol that night. Service aside, the food was okay. The star on my halibut entree was not the fish itself (which was actually overcooked), but actually the polenta, perfectly seasoned and cooked in a way that absolutely melted on my tongue. Mack’s steak was over-sauced, but he did enjoy his baby crock pot of truffled mac and cheese.

Goat cheese mousse amuse bouche

Halibut

Steak (any further details would have required some notation…of which I did not make)

For More Than Just Sushi: Globefish

For our dinner selection in Calgary, I was pushing for Pulcinella, a Neopolitan pizzeria (similar to Famoso), but resolved that the decision would be a democratic one. I lost.

We ended up at Globefish, as my sisters and parents all put in their vote for sushi. As I rarely eat Japanese cuisine (and never sushi), I am not well-schooled in this category of restaurants, but by way of blogs and Fast Forward surveys, I had heard Globefish was popular. Using the powers of Google, we found the closest location to our hotel, and on our way, called to make sure they were open. While they didn’t accept reservations, their table availability looked good.

Oh how fast things change on a Saturday night – half an hour later, we arrived at the restaurant and faced a forty minute wait. Hungry, we considered bolting for the nearest recognizable chain, but figuring that most restaurants would be similarly flushed with the weekend rush, we stayed.

While in the waiting area, we perused the menu, and held ourselves back from defacing the autographed photos of Calgary Flames players on the wall. Among the sushi options were a Flames roll and yes, even an Iginla roll (a little counterintuitive though, no? As “flames” conjures images of cooked food).

The interior of the restaurant was simple but classy. Leather booths helped create a sense of privacy for dining parties (to the detriment of maximizing seating availability), and crystal chandeliers provided a chic accent normally not seen in Japanese restaurants.

My family at an opposite table (we opted to decrease our wait by sitting apart)

Time to linger with the menu prior to being seated meant we were ready to order straightaway. A perky waitress provided attentive service throughout the night, and the kitchen definitely helped speed things along – Globefish was darn efficient.

Mack and I both prefer things cooked, so skipped right over the sushi platters and onto the hot entrees. We eventually settled on an udon noodle bowl ($9.95) each – beef for me, and tempura for him. Mack, ever the calamari lover, couldn’t resist ordering a plate of their mentai version to start ($8.95).

Sushi platters were arriving haphazardly at my family’s table (as they were made), while our calamari zipped out to us in no time at all. Mack really enjoyed it, as the dish employed a seasoning zing not usually found in calamari.

Mentai Calamari

My beef udon bowl was good – the noodles had retained their requisite chew, while the broth was clear and not over-seasoned – but nothing special. Mack’s on the other hand – I had a serious case of dish envy after sampling some of his tempura. The batter was light, crispy, and enhanced whatever it enrobed – from the shrimp to zucchini, I was amazed that they were able to preserve the crispness and succulence of the vegetables, so didn’t blink before I regarded it as the best tempura I’ve ever had.

Beef Udon Noodle

Tempura

My sisters and Mum enjoyed their sushi plates, and though I wanted more detail about why they liked their food so much, all I got was a response of “It was good.” Sigh.

 

Crunch & Munch Roll (prawn tempura, cucumber & tobiko roll wrapped with unagi & avocado)

Roll Combo (California roll, dynamite roll, spicy tuna roll)

Favourite Sushi Combo (tuna sushi, salmon sushi, California roll)

For a fast and satisfying meal, I’d heartily recommend Globefish – even if you aren’t into sushi.

Globefish
326 14 Street NW (1 other location)
Calgary, AB
(403) 283-6555

Food Notes for September 7, 2009

  • The Old Strathcona Foundation is hosting a Taste of Old Strathcona fundraiser this Friday, September 11. Along with samples from Hudson’s, Flirt Cupcakes and New Asian Village, expect entertainment and a silent auction.
  • The Marketplace at Callingwood is hosting its 11th annual CornFest on Saturday, September 12, in support of the Firefighters Burn Treatment Society.
  • Liane posted about two upcoming points of interest for the city’s culinary scene – starting September 25, the Hardware Grill is joining the fray of competitively-priced dishes with a $35 “grazing menu” featuring appetizers and desserts. Offered only from 5-6:30pm, its intention to appeal to those spending less freely and for those requiring a pre-show meal is very similar to the Blue Pear’s “Baby Blue Pear” menu.
  • Secondly, Liane notes that David Cruz (formerly of Sage) will be opening up a restaurant on Jasper Avenue, hopefully by December. I love when new establishments decide to open up in the core.
  • While I would have loved to be present at the filming of the Edmonton episode of The Endless Feast, I was happy to see a photo-filled account of the dinner on Colleen Ingoldsby’s blog.
  • The Journal filed the second mainstream media review about Indian Fusion, also with a passable verdict.
  • I had the opportunity to interview Sabor Divino’s Lino Oliveira for a piece in Vue Weekly this week. I find it interesting when chefs aren’t formally schooled in the culinary arts.
  • Also in Vue – an article worth reading about the new Alberta Sustainable Agriculture Apprenticeship Program (ASAAP) that seeks to connect young people with apprenticeship opportunities on local farms.
  • I appreciated Cheryl’s candid post about her first year with a CSA – her point about having to love salads would make or break my own experience, if I were to ever join one.
  • See Magazine had an article this week about the “cupcake war” on Whyte.
  • On a related cupcake note – Slate had a well-written piece about the potential crash of the cupcake market.
  • Mack and I have been spending most of our Saturday mornings this summer at the City Centre Farmers’ Market, and absolutely loving it. And more than other years, we’ve been making it a point to try out different vendors. This week, we were early enough to have the chance to pick up a bag of Montreal-style bagels. At 6 for $6, they’re not for the cash-strapped shopper, but for handmade bagels, they have a great texture, with the right amount of chew and varnish. The sourdough taste of the bread was something I wasn’t expecting, but it wasn’t overly strong. Starting October 22, the vendor will be at the Salisbury Greenhouse market.

A plain Montreal-style bagel

Weekend Road Trip 2009: Family Edition

During the long weekend in August my family (plus Mack) did something we haven’t done in a long time – take a road trip together. The destination wasn’t far – just Drumheller and Calgary – but while neither the time spent or the drive down was particularly long, it was such a throwback to summer vacations in the past that it didn’t matter.

Drumheller’s a sightseeing haven

Our first stop in Drumheller was lunch. I looked in vain prior to the trip for some independent dining recommendations in a chain-saturated town, but couldn’t find much. I decided upon The Whistling Kettle, mostly due to its quaint exterior, but when we arrived, we found it closed due to a death in the family. We walked back towards main street and after surveying very limited options (for whatever reason most of the restaurants were closed on Saturdays), decided upon Gus’ Corner Restaurant. The food really isn’t worth mentioning; everything was coaxed back from frozen hibernation.

After lunch, we walked over to the tacky-but-clever World’s Largest Dinosaur attraction. Tacky because really, it’s just a large covered metal staircase, but clever because tourists seem to flock to it (it has even won a national award). Priced at $3 per person or $11 for a family of five, it’s a “why not?” type of expense, and yes, our family succumbed to it too.

World’s Largest Dinosaur

Felicia at the foot of the World’s Largest Dinosaur

Mack and I in the mouth of the dinosaur

By this time, we were crying for air conditioning (I’m not sure I’ve ever seen it cloudy or rainy in Drumheller – in my mind, it’s a toasty 35 degrees year round). The Royal Tyrrell Museum was thus the next logical step, and would hopefully bridge us through the warmest part of the afternoon.

Cute prairie dog outside the Museum

The parking lot was absolutely packed, with overflow parking similarly jammed. We had passed by several RV lots full of vehicles, and it seemed that the staycation mentality was in full effect.

I haven’t been to the Tyrrell since high school (hurrah for school field trips!), but short of the small exhibits about Darwin and some of the pioneer archaeologists who helped develop the museum into what it is today, the Tyrrell seemed largely unchanged. I suppose it was a bit disappointing, largely because we had visited the incomparable Smithsonian earlier this year. I know funding must be difficult to come by, but I do hope the Tyrrell is able to build additional galleries that would provide the option of rotating exhibitions – having reached a milestone in visitors this year, I do hope they can continue to attract a record number of tourists.

My parents at the Tyrrell Museum

T-Rex

Stegosaurus was my favourite dinosaur as a kid

Eerie Woolly Mammoth display

The freakiest looking salamanders (called axolotl)

It was still blazingly hot outside after our museum visit, but we had no choice and headed to the next attraction – hoodoos!

My sisters at the hoodoos

There were two tourism employees placed around the hoodoos to prevent visitors from breaching out-of-bounds areas – on smouldering days like that, I can’t imagine being in the sun for eight hours straight.

Mack on top of the world!

Hoodoos of a different sort (such a cheesy picture, but I love it)

We had some more time to kill before needing to head to Calgary, so decided to stop at the nearby Rosedale Suspension Bridge. Nothing particularly special, the swaying structure was enough to keep my mum on the side of the parking lot while the rest of us crossed to see what was across the river. It turns out, nothing much.

Rosedale Suspension Bridge

Amanda and Felicia on the bridge

The next day in Calgary, we didn’t do much except eat and shop. And, well, visit the Calgary Farmers’ Market.

Too cute watering cans

Mack knows well enough by now that I can’t leave a farmers’ market empty-handed, so goaded me into buying a few things lest he have to hear about the missed opportunity to try a different local vendor. As we were away for the weekend, it also meant we had missed our usual Saturday trip to the City Centre Farmers’ Market, so we needed some produce to tide us over anyway. We didn’t have much cooler space left, so opted for heartier broccoli and cauliflower from Beck Farms that would easily last the ride home, and a 950g(!) loaf of multigrain bread from Rustic Sourdough Bakery.

Weighing out our bread options

I’m not sure when our whole family will be able to take another road trip again, but it was fun to get away together this year!

You can see Mack’s photoset of our trip here.