Conference Weekend in Calgary

I spent the past weekend in Calgary attending a conference, and judging by the fact that the venue served us popsicles during one coffee break, they also didn’t anticipate the snow that fell in June. I do hope that was the last of it.

Convention centres always amaze me with their logistical abilities to feed a thousand people in a fairly efficient way. The Telus Convention Centre was great for the most part, but I had a nitpick about their neglect of tea drinkers on the first day.

Carafes, from left to right: coffee, decaffeinated coffee, hot water (the latter was empty – at all stations)

Thankfully, they improved on day 2, as I’m sure they received their share of negative feedback.

The gala dinner was quite the spread (I am certain the conference is heavily subsidized – our registration price would have gone to food alone). Someone should have decided to call table numbers, however, as the wait in the free-for-all lineup for the buffet was half an hour for those who arrived to the hall late.

Dessert table (the “cherry almond martinis” were visually engaging, but tasted to me like whipped cream…I didn’t finish it)

The second day was filled with sessions that focused on wellness, a nice change from the content-heavy day prior. I really enjoyed Judy Atkinson’s community drumming workshop. It was incredibly satisfying to spend an hour and a half getting accustomed to the different instruments (African, Cuban and First Nations drums, as well as percussion), and was a great stress reliever.

My starter drum

As Saturday was a half day, I was able to wander a bit around the core before catching my bus back to Edmonton. I stopped in at Art Central for some window shopping, then to deVille Cafe for something to eat. It’s a nice space, chic and modern as you’d expect from an upscale cafe, but their microwave-equivalent breakfast sandwich left something to be desired – it was rubbery and had me wishing for Starbucks’ sandwich instead. I guess at $3.50, I shouldn’t have set my standards too high (particularly knowing that coffee was their specialty, not food), but shouldn’t small independents focus on quality?

deVille Cafe interior

Ham, Egg and Cheese Sandwich

After more shopping, I ended up at Avenue Diner for an early supper. I haven’t been back since my visit nearly two years ago for brunch, and I was eager for an opportunity to try the tempting macaroni and cheese, a large print of which is displayed in the lobby. The servers were lovely throughout, and took a little pity on me as a lone diner as they tidied up for the day. The food was fairly tardy, unusual also because I was the penultimate party to order. It did arrive with a golden, crunchy, cheesy crust though, and probably could have fed two people. At the same time, given the price ($16.29), perhaps that’s what they had in mind.

“Dad’s famous aged white Cheddar mac and cheese” from Avenue Diner

There are still so many Calgary eateries I’d like to try – I look forward to my next trip down, hopefully minus the snow!

The Ovens Have Landed: Starbucks Breakfast Sandwich Report

I was pretty excited when I saw that ovens were appearing in Starbucks locations across the city in March. While I knew I wouldn’t indulge in their sandwich offerings all that often (especially not having the time to stop in on my way to work in the mornings), I was looking forward to having the option of something more than cold pastries.

Mack and I had tried a sausage and egg sandwich while in Vancouver last year, and found it to be a sub-par cousin of the breakfast sandwiches offered at both McDonald’s and Tim Horton’s. However, we were eager to give it a second try on home soil. I would have loved to have been able to sample a free sandwich at the South Point location on Thursday, but we ended up walking to the Empire Building location that night for a quick bite before the RISE Celebration at the Citadel (the sandwiches are available until 90 minutes before closing).

All at $3.95, we had the choice of:

Classic sausage, egg & cheddar
Black forest ham, egg & cheddar
Peppered bacon, egg & cheddar
Reduced-fat bacon-style turkey with cholesterol free egg patty & reduced fat white cheddar
Spinach feta wrap with egg and roasted tomato

I opted for the sausage option, while Mack succumbed to the thought of having bacon for supper. We watched the barista unwrap our sandwiches and place them individually in the oven. When they were ready, they were transferred into a white paper bag with a seal that read “Great coffee deserves great food”.

Seal of Starbucks’ approval

I remember reading something a few months back about how Starbucks had to engineer their sandwich in a way that would make it virtually odourless, so the warming and consuming of them would not overpower the recognizable coffee aroma in its stores. I have to say they accomplished this feat with flying colours – the sandwich gave off nearly no smell – something a little scary when considering its main egg component. Mack liked the fact that the bread shell was not greasy at all, making it a less messy meal. I was disappointed with the sausage patty – it was chewy and lacked any real flavour, two things that are not surprising considering how it was prepared.

Sausage, Egg and Cheddar Sandwich

Peppered Bacon, Egg and Cheddar Sandwich

While I can’t say I won’t be sampling their other sandwich varieties, I think it’s safe to say that both Mack and I would choose our homemade egg sandwiches in a heartbeat. The ovens can also be used to heat up their other food items, though (Empire, for example, had a sign that said cookies could be heated up until 6:30pm), so we may find that the ovens are useful yet!

My Wish List for Edmonton’s Food Scene

There are always things to be grateful for, and Edmonton’s burgeoning restaurant scene is definitely one of them. While I can’t say I’m actually a part of its development (commenting about it just isn’t the same as more active participation), it’s been wonderfully rewarding as a lifelong Edmontonian to see independent eateries and other food establishments successfully compete with chain restaurants.

At the same time, I know there are things in our dining scene that I would love to see – perhaps things that are percolating and forthcoming, but haven’t yet bubbled to the surface. In no particular order, here are some things I want to see more of:

One-note restaurants: It may be gimmicky, but places that serve one dish really well, such as Soul Soup or The Dawg Father, do attract attention. They are typically introduced to tourists as providing the “best” of something, and at the very least, force people to concentrate on one type of food, which may draw them away from their comfort zone.
Single word restaurant names: I was a bit disappointed with the recently opened Kai Asian Grill. I was really hoping the restaurant would grab “Kai” by the balls and just go with a single word to sell themselves to the world, but no, they copped out by adding “Asian Grill” to all of their signage. Yes, I know Edmonton has a number of restaurants that have one word names (Culina, Viphalay and Spago come to mind), but they don’t generate the same kind of excitement or mystery based on the name alone. Examples: Rouge (a contemporary French restaurant), Rush (a contemporary American restaurant) and Cilantro (which offers southwestern fare) in Calgary.
Food establishments as the hook for exploration: Beyond Chinatown and Little Italy, there are areas in Edmonton that should be explored on foot. Though food establishments generally become the bait to lure potential visitors to particular areas, they should not be the be-all-end-all of a visit. In April of last year, I wrote about a few walkable day trips that included food stops along the way – it was only a sample; I’m sure there are many others that I failed to include.
Innovative concepts: I was really excited when TZiN opened nearly two years ago. I really thought it would usher in a new age in Edmonton’s restaurant scene that would involve small, trendy establishments offering their own spin on dining. It hasn’t happened yet, but I’m still optimistic. Perhaps this means a charcuterie wine bar for Edmonton in the near future, but I’m sure the imagination of the city’s restauranteurs is greater than mine.
Year-round Farmer’s Markets: Summers in Edmonton are ripe with farmers’ markets (including my favourite one – the City Centre Market on 104th Street), but it’s a fairly depressing scene in the winter. There are only two approved farmers’ markets in metro Edmonton that operate year-round – Old Strathcona and Westmount – and one unapproved one at the Salisbury Greenhouse in Sherwood Park. Farmers’ markets are great places for people to learn about food and to feel a little more connected to the people who produce it, so it would be great to have more opportunities to do so, even in the winter.
Community gathering places: The Carrot, a volunteer-run coffeehouse on 118 Avenue, will be looked upon years from now as an inspirational model. Arts on the Ave, the organization behind The Carrot, has helped attract attention to the beleaguered neighbourhood by acting as a hub for community members to connect with one another, and by promoting local artists and causes. Edmonton could use more such initiatives.

What is on your wish list for Edmonton’s food scene?

A European Lair: Caffè Artigiano

While Mack was occupied at BarCampCalgary, I played tourist and had lunch at Caffè Artigiano (Unit 100, Centrum Place, 332 6 Avenue SW). A west coast import that had coffee aficionado John Manzo, among others, excited about its first location outside of metro Vancouver, I wanted to see for myself what all the hype was about.

Occupying a rather large storefront in an office tower, the high ceilinged space resembles a European lair more than a typical café at first glance. A pedway positioned above Caffè Artigiano and its neighbours prevented much natural light from coming through – but perhaps the designers preferred it that way – the dark furniture and earth toned walls absorbed what sunlight did trickle through.

Peering into the cooler that contained an assortment of premade sandwiches, wraps and treats, I decided upon the Chicken and Brie Panino ($8.59) for my main course. A Spanish Latte ($3.59), which the clerk explained to me was a latte with a bit of condensed milk added, completed my meal.

I sat down at a large table fit for a library to await my food and drink. Lucky for me, Caffè Artigiano subscribes to a number of papers (including my favorite, The Globe & Mail), and like a library, affixes each edition onto a large wooden rod.

A few minutes later, my drink was called. Beautifully presented with an artful rosetta design, I almost didn’t want to take the first sip. I did, of course, and found that the latte walked the fine line between the jolt of a strong espresso and the creamy smoothness of milk, accented as a whole with just a hint of sweetness.

My panino, served with a small cup of coleslaw, was equally satisfying. Generously filled with chicken, cheese, then grilled, it left me full but not stuffed. While the chicken was a touch dry, the thin spread of fig jam helped alleviate somewhat parched bites.

I still struggle with the idea of having to pay nearly $10 for a sandwich in a coffee shop (granted, Caffè Artigiano is not just any coffee shop). So although I may be back for another cup of coffee, I would probably head elsewhere for something to eat first.

Rosetta

Chicken and Brie Panino and a Spanish Latte

Transcend Coffee

I’m a little torn on whether or not I should even write a review on our visit to Transcend Coffee (9869 62 Avenue), consistently lauded in the media and by local foodies for their approach to coffee. Granted, we had huge expectations, particularly after our sojourn to Calgary’s Phil & Sebastian’s, for an equally fantastic experience. But I’m sad to say that Transcend didn’t live up to the hype.

Surrounded by industrial buildings and warehouses, we weren’t sure what the inside of Transcend would look like. Turns out, they probably ended up choosing the off-the-beaten-path location more for cheap rent than anything else, as they had two whole floors to themselves, with the main floor divided into a retail front space with limited seating and a coffee “laboratory” and roasting area in a separate room in the back.

Count me as surprised when I spotted a Clover on the counter…I guess we didn’t have to head south after all to test out fresh French-pressed coffee. Anyway, I approached the barista with this open question, which in hindsight, probably wasn’t the right way to start off a conversation: “We’re new. Can you provide us with an introduction?” She probed us for our usual coffee preferences, and after telling her that we wanted a lighter brew, she recommended the Ethiopia Yirgacheffe. We ordered two regular Clover-brewed cups, which came to $5.

Though I understand that not every independent cafe employee is as outgoing and passionate as the one we encountered at Phil & Sebastian’s, it is difficult not to directly compare the two. Transcend’s barista really wasn’t chatty, and as we surveyed the room, it seemed to us that the Transcend crowd was made up entirely of regulars. That morning anyway, we felt like the odd patrons out.

After an abbreviated wait, we were given two filled coffee-press vessels and two Bodum double-walled glasses. We headed to the second floor to access their additional seating area, and found that we had the room to ourselves. While quiet, the furnishings had us thinking we had infiltrated someone’s home office and living room – between the desk and open files on one side, a mishmash of furniture, and a television in the corner, we didn’t feel as “at home” as we were supposed to.

Our coffee had a light brown hue to it, almost the color it takes on after the addition of milk. It was thin, and to me, had acidic notes to it, though Mack disagreed with that assertion. He remarked about its lack of an aftertaste, but we both noted that it probably wasn’t the type meant to provide that morning jolt – we were ready for more after finishing our cups. After my second brush with Clover-brewed coffee, I’m starting to question whether or not it does make a difference, at least to me. I hope the coffee tasting Mack and I are planning to attend later this spring will shed some light on specialty beans and brewing processes.

Perhaps Phil & Sebastian’s spoiled me, or perhaps I shouldn’t be looking for an “experience” at a cafe, but there has to be something (like the people and the passion behind the coffee) that sets the independents apart from the Starbucks and Second Cups of the world.

Exterior

At the bar

Second floor seating area

Our coffees

Many Happy Returns: Leva Cappuccino Bar

I was on the hunt for a good panini sandwich today, and remembered Leva (11053 86 Avenue). As I was heading to the nearby Jubilee Auditorium later that evening anyway, it was a convenient stopover.

I ordered the 4 cheese and roasted tomato panini, which came served with a lovely vegetable salad dressed with a sweet and sour balsamic vinaigrette. The sandwich was nicely toasted, and the cheese satisfyingly melted.

This was only my second visit to the cafe, but I love Leva’s vibe. The choice of classic soul tunes created an upbeat and easygoing atmosphere, and the service has been friendly and helpful. A bonus for me – their selection of cooking and entertaining magazines are a source of welcome distraction for me. Who needs a free daily when you’ve got Donna Hay?

My only complaint is their cash-only policy. Though they have an in-house ATM, it’s hard not to see it as an underhanded cash cow; not only do they not have to pay debit machine and credit card charges, but they also get to collect wayward ATM transaction fees on top of that.

Despite that, I still readily recommend Leva – for their food, coffee, and gelato – but make sure you’ve got some cash on hand.

4 cheese panini

Retro Chic: Leva Capuccino Bar

Since our failed attempt to try them back in December, I’ve been itching to visit the newly-renovated Leva Capuccino Bar (11053 86 Avenue). So on a windy Friday, Bettina and I ventured back in the direction of the University campus.

It turns out their grand re-opening took place on March 24, and in addition to renovations, they also revamped their menu. As this was my first time at Leva, I’m not sure what it looked like prior to its facelift, but I can say that the new space is very chic. With a clean black and white color scheme, accented with orange chairs and fabulous crystal chandeliers, it has a younger, but similar vibe to Caffè Sorrentino. The order counter (save the LCD panels), is designed with a 70s touch, anchoring the cafe with a retro feel. Also of note is their selection of food magazines, including Gourmet Traveller and Donna Hay – definitely not your average coffee shop collection!

In addition to the baked goods and artisan gelato, Leva also offers several salads, panini sandwiches, and pizzas. Never being able to pass up a good Margherita, I gave it a try. Made to order, the pizza was great (and better than the one I had at Earls a few weeks ago), in large part due to the light and crispy crust. The creamy bocconcini cheese was a delicious alternative to the more commonly used mozzarella, and really served to make this pizza special. My accompanying iced coffee was just that, but included just the right amount of added sweetener, cutting through the usual bitterness associated with the drink.

Just a short walk from the University, Leva is worth a try if you’re in the area.

Cafe exterior

Interior

Order counter

Margherita Pizza

Bettina’s treats (of which I sampled as well – the blueberry ricotta tart was the best of the three)

Central and Satisfying: Three Bananas Cafe

May and I had been to Three Bananas Cafe (9918-102 Avenue) just after it opened a few years ago, but haven’t been back since. Strange, especially since we had a positive experience and it has such a great location – right on Churchill Square. Well, before an event at the Winspear Centre tonight, we decided to grab a quick bite to eat there, knowing they would be fairly efficient, but in the worst-case scenario, we were just a stone’s throw away from our target venue.

A modern yet inviting space, the ‘seat yourself’ mentality lends itself quite well to the casual cafe atmosphere. Lined with windows – a great feature for warm weather people-watching on the Square – the dim lighting is more conducive to catch-up conversations than solo reading in the evenings. There are even a few flat screen televisions mounted on the wall, typically projecting sports programs.

I always marvelled at the fact that what appears to be an upper-scale coffee shop would also have a decent food menu. May ordered the Deli Combo Panini (turkey, smoked ham, pickles, cheddar cheese, dijon mustard and mayo), while I ordered (what else) a Hawaiian Pizza (finally!).

The food arrived after a bit of a wait, though understandable given they only had one cook on shift (who also served as the busperson). May said her Panini was all right, but expressed a preference for the sandwiches served at Booster Juice. My pizza was just what the doctor ordered – the multigrain crust was thin, crunchy and light, and served as a great base to a generous topping of ham, pineapple, and cheddar and mozarella cheeses.

So if you’re in the mood for a coffee or a light meal, Three Bananas sure beats the food court funk.

Right on Churchill Square!

Deli Combo Panini with Organic Chips and Salsa

Ham and Pineapple Pizza

New York Style: Caffè Sorrentino

After lunch, May, Janice and I looked to unwind in a coffee shop, and stumbled upon Caffè Sorrentino (10665-109 Street).

Recently opened by Sorrentino’s, purveyors of fine Italian Dining in Alberta, the coffee shop exuded a New York flavor. The black, white and red color scheme was offset by clear light fixtures and stainless steel tables, creating a chic and sophisticated feel. A flat screen television was installed near the coffee bar, where many patrons were situated, fixating on the broadcasted Oilers game. Their menu is very similar to that of Zenari’s in Manulife Place – in addition to the typical coffee break fare, they also offer soups, paninis and pastas. But bonus – they also carry Fantasia Gelato, the must-have treat at Heritage Days. And for those who need an easy-to-make dinner, Caffè Sorrentino stocks convenient, take-home versions of their popular pastas and sauces (I myself wouldn’t mind trying their wild mushroom ravioli).

While I didn’t have the appetite to have anything besides a cookie and a cup of Tazo tea this time, I will be back to sample their Italian plates soon.

Counter

Cafe interior

Table with a view

Unusual napkin holder and mug

Modern Simplicity: Holt’s Cafe

On Saturday, May and I headed to Holt’s Cafe , located on the second floor of Holt Renfrew (10180-101 Street), for brunch.

We had both been wanting to eat there for ages, but it had to be a Saturday, as both of us wouldn’t have been able to get away for a lunch out of the office on weekdays, and Holt’s Cafe was closed on Sundays. In a recent Edmonton Journal piece, the reviewer cautioned all diners to make reservations early to ensure space availability, so about a week earlier, I called for a 12pm table-for-two.

When I arrived, the hostess immediately led me to a table by the window. Definitely one with a view, the glass overlooked the main floor of Manulife Place, and was positioned so it took full advantage of the sunshine filtering in from Manulife’s numerous skylights. Crisp white table linens contrasted nicely with the painted red walls, accented with the soft glow emanating from rectangular screen lamps. The minimalist decor scheme was chic, classy, and elegant, and an example of how a simple two-toned red and white color palette could be maximized to produce a warm but sophisticated design.

The cafe was moderately full, with patrons consisting mostly of mature couples and groups of ladies lunching. After getting settled, I nearly attacked the waitress for coffee, but she didn’t flinch at all, and even brought me cream without being asked (and of course, kept the refills coming). Unfortunately, there was no separate brunch menu, but I noticed that most of my fellow diners were choosing lighter meal options like salad or soup. Though dismayed because they had run out of Vegetarian Quiche, I decided to try the shrimp alternative anyway. May opted for the Whole Wheat Spaghetti topped with a curious Indian-inspired Marsala Sauce.

My portion was appropriately sized, and I wasn’t disappointed with the quiche. Light and fluffy, with a good flavor balance between the shrimp and the egg, it was the perfect brunch selection. Served with seasonal greens and a side of orange poppy seed dressing, the salad proved to be good companion to the quiche. My friend said her pasta was okay and not too spicy, but she would have preferred to have ordered my dish.

For dessert, we opted for the Lemon Tarts. They proved impossible to eat gracefully, as the filling was not viscous enough to adhere to the pastry shell. Though a tad too sweet for my taste (I prefer pastry cream), it wasn’t bad.

It was a wonderful dining experience, and while it may be some time before I can fit Holt’s Cafe into my lunch schedule again, I will be back to try their other entrees.

Dining room