Food Notes

Prosciutto Pizza

An Exercise in Patience: New York Bagel Cafe

On a blustery Sunday, Mack and I foolishly ventured out for brunch. I had been itching to try the New York Bagel Cafe (8430 Gateway Boulevard NW) for some time, and as we had to be in the Old Strathcona/Glenora area later that afternoon anyway, it seemed like a good idea.

We parked on the corner of Whyte Avenue and Gateway Boulevard, meaning we had to trek through at least one block of fresh snow drifts to reach our destination. I had to laugh at the conditions outside, as I was reminded of my only other brush with the Bagel Cafe – several years ago at the coldest and wettest Fringe I had attended to date, I ended up there to use the facilities and buy a few hot drinks to take back to the stage at King Edward Academy. Perhaps the Bagel Cafe is my personal equivalent to a “bad weather” friend.

When we entered the charming restaurant, we found ourselves third in line to wait for one of the twelve or thirteen tables on hand. Thankfully, the wait was just half an hour, albeit not the most comfortable in the cramped quarters of a very small entryway.

The dining area itself was quite cozy, the white, snow-reflecting sunlight streaming in to light up tables and floors made of aged wood, a brick hearth, and brightly painted walls. The centre bar was rather imposing, and though it carved up the dining area to allow for a private corner of tables, it made the space seem less friendly somehow.

For such a small place, the menu was quite extensive – four pages in total. Bagel platters, breakfast plates and their famous eggs benedicts, even picky eaters would be satisfied. Mack decided to give their omelet ($14), customized with mushrooms and smoked meat, while I opted for their Classic Breakfast ($11), which included jumbo eggs, bacon, home fried potatoes, and a toasted buttered bagel.

While we waited for our food, we were a bit worried after seeing a sign tacked up on the wall. It read: “Please understand that good food takes time to prepare…enjoy a drink and the ambiance while you wait.” This sentiment was reinforced on the menu: “Please note that modifications to menu items may not be made as it will slow the kitchen down, please respect the menu the way it is.” Though the warning did make the lag time expected, neither of us thought our food would take nearly an hour. Moreover, the Cafe doesn’t serve drip coffee (cash grab or simply removing the burden of refills from already over-taxed waitresses?) – so coffee drinkers be aware – unless you’re prepared to slap down another $4 for a second cup, enjoy your mocha/latte/espresso slowly.

When our plates did arrive (steaming hot, thank goodness), it was evident that presentation was a New York Bagel trademark. The layers of fruit were artfully arranged, the eggs had been garnished with care, and the bagel itself was carefully stacked at an angle. My scrambled eggs were wonderfully creamy, and the smoked meat in Mack’s omelet was delicious. The home fries on the other hand, pan fried with what looked like sea salt, was much too salty for both our tastes. And the bagels? Mack’s cheese variety was much better than my sesame, but for its namesake food item, they could have been mistaken for those taken from a local grocer.

Between the weather, the wait and the expense, I’m not sure I will be back at NYBC soon. But perhaps on another chilly day in the future, I will find myself at the Cafe door just looking for a warm place to hide out.

Interior (family friendly – lots of high chairs)

A multitude of tabletop condiments

Moca ($3.75) – perfectly sweet, like hot chocolate with just a hint of coffee

Espresso-based House Coffee with steamed milk ($3.25)

Omelet with a cheese bagel, fancy fruit garnish and home fries

Classic Breakfast with a sesame bagel, scrambled eggs, bacon and home fries

Edmonton Opera: “Falstaff”

When I purchased an Edmonton Opera Explorers’ Club membership last year, my intention was to use it to see Stewart Lemoine’s take on HMS Pinafore and nothing else. After thoroughly enjoying that operetta, to really maximize the membership fee, I thought it best to use my discount towards the last opera of the year, Verdi’s Falstaff.

From the website:

“Based on Shakespeare’s Merry Wives of Windsor, it tells the story of an aging-but-still-randy Sir John Falstaff, who is determined to mend his financial situation by seducing two noblewomen simultaneously. However, (as one would suspect), disastrous, convoluted and wildly funny results arise…. what a man won’t do for love and money!”

As I mentioned in my review of Pinafore, Falstaff was to function as a better litmus test for me determine whether or not I could enjoy opera. Turns out, not so much.

As Pinafore was in English, I didn’t have to rely on the supertitles. For the Italian Falstaff, they were indispensable, and though they helped disseminate the plot and outline the characters, it was exhausting having to dart back and forth from the projected words to the stage antics. As well, I found that I really wasn’t invested in any of the characters – a failing of this particular opera, I admit, and not necessarily true of all productions. But still, I couldn’t care less about the women’s revenge, or the B-plot involving the two young lovers.

To be honest, the most enjoyable part of the evening was the opening five minute video introduction of the 2008/2009 Edmonton Opera season, as presented by Artistic Director Brian Deedrick. He is one excitable man, and for an artform sometimes seen as archaic and irrelevant, I think someone so passionate is exactly the right person to lead the company. When he finally announced the names of each of the three (plus one) shows, Mack and I both could not believe the volume of the collective gasps and sighs emitted by the audience. As someone who would probably do the same upon hearing the new Teatro la Quindicina or Shadow Theatre seasons, I can put myself in an opera-lovers’ shoes, but on that night, I couldn’t help but laugh. If anything, it is good to know that the “opera community” is alive and well in Edmonton.

Would I go to the opera again? Perhaps, for a well-known knockout like La Boheme. Short of that, my opera days are done.

More Western than Fusion: Sweet Mango

I had read numerous reviews – all positive – about Sweet Mango (9120 82 Avenue), a new-ish Vietnamese and Thai restaurant located in a south side strip mall. As such, it has been on my list of places to try for some time, and I finally had the opportunity to do so on Saturday.

Driving up to the restaurant, Mack and I were greeted by Sweet Mango’s signage summing up its food philosophy: “A modern Vietnamese fusion dining experience”. As with other local fusion experiments, I was curious to see what their interpretation would be, and as it turned out, it was comparable to Matahari – they offer dishes more accurately described as “Westernized Asian” than “fusion”.

At any rate, my first impressions of the eatery were encouraging. Their equivalent of “Please wait to be seated” was a cute “Please be a patient mango”, complete with an image of the fruit. As well, the interior could have easily been a page out of an IKEA catalogue, with moulded white plastic new-age chairs, a clean modern paint scheme, and stalks of decorative bamboo in vases leaning against the back wall. The large tables (uncommonly sized in a food bracket which typically strives for space conservation over comfort) are perfect for those looking for a place to spread out and study, an observation potentially sanctioned by an advertised 10% discount on food for students with a valid ID – not a bad deal from an off-campus, non-pub establishment.

We were promptly seated, and each provided with a leather-bound book encasing beautifully put-together menu pages, complete with full-color pictures and detailed descriptions of dish options. I was impressed with the variety available, which spanned the usual grilled meat/vegetable rice plates, vermicelli bowls and pho, to more interesting choices like crispy tofu fries, Thai salads, and mango prawns. Though we had resolved to “eat healthier” just a day earlier, that ideal went out the window when we decided to order our respective benchmark dishes for Asian eateries – his being Spring Rolls ($3.75/3) and Ginger Beef ($11.95), mine being Pad Thai ($13.95).

We were hoping the wait for our food wouldn’t be too lengthy, as we had a show to attend immediately following dinner, and though there were only two waitresses covering the entire dining room, we didn’t stay idle for too long. Our appetizer arrived promptly, with a dessert-sized plate for each of us. While perfect for our spring rolls, the plate was much too small to comfortably eat our entrees from. But that was a minor complaint – the spring rolls were good – crisp from being freshly fried, and our two main courses were everything we expected them to be – inoffensive, predictable versions of our favorites. The pad thai was indeed spicy (as we had been warned on the menu), so it was fortuitous that we had the sweet morsels of fried beef and stir-fried vegetables as a tapering heat escape.

Though the dishes they offer, in my opinion, is not rightly described as “fusion”, for the quality and the dining room surroundings, Sweet Mango is a welcome addition to the Asian restaurant scene in Edmonton.

Interior

Menu

Menu page

Spring Rolls

Ginger Beef

Pad Thai

Finished (and yet not impressed)!

Reliable Dim Sum: Golden Rice Bowl

On a chilly Saturday morning, I met up with a few of my workmates at Golden Rice Bowl (5365 Gateway Boulevard NW) for Echo’s dim sum send-off. I was surprised that a few of my colleagues had never had dim sum before, but then again, there are so many world cuisines I haven’t yet experienced that I shouldn’t have thought anything of it.

Arriving just after 10am afforded the luxury of immediate seating (try saying that at noon on a weekend), and food carts that didn’t have to pass through a mass of tables before reaching us. James remarked that it was “safer” to try new and different food with those already familiar with the dishes – I guess I hadn’t really thought of it like that before.

We’ll miss you Echo, but you can be sure that we will certainly call you up if we’re in your neighbourhood!

Yes, I snuck in a Starbucks coffee…

Chicken feet

The Cooking Chronicles: Seared Salmon with Balsamic Glaze and Dirty Rice

With a resolve to eat healthier, Mack and I prepared a relatively balanced meal on Friday for dinner.

Seared Salmon with Balsamic Glaze was on the menu, as was an interesting recipe for Dirty Rice, which incorporates coffee as one of the liquid additives. A side salad of Italian greens (packaged, we cheated), completed our plates.

The salmon was quick to prepare – though we had skinless fillets instead of the recommended skin-on type. I delegated the searing job to Mack (a splatter screen would have been a good idea), and though one end of my fish ended up slightly charred due to the thickness differential, the salmon ended up deliciously crispy and cooked through. The balsamic glaze was a wonderfully easy way to punch up the flavour of what would have been a perfectly fine entree on its own, and is something that elevates salmon to a “fancy” dinner party dish.

The rice didn’t turn out as well as it could have as I should have left it on the stove for another five minutes or so. Still, the coffee flavour was negligible, and all we could taste was the oregano.

The best thing about our dinner was the fact that it took virtually no time or planning at all. With a well-stocked pantry and the will to continue driving past restaurant and fast food alternatives, a good, healthy meal can be had at home.

Seared Salmon with Balsamic Glaze and Dirty Rice

Quotable People: Installment Twelve

  • “True friendship is like sound health; the value of it is seldom known until it is lost.” – Charles Caleb Cotton
  • “Trouble is a sieve through which we sift our acquaintances. Those too big to pass through are our friends.” – Arlene Francis
  • “Friendship makes prosperity more brilliant, and lightens adversity by dividing and sharing it.” – Cicero
  • “Thoughtfulness is to a friendship what sunshine is to a garden.” – Anonymous
  • “Being with you is like walking on a very clear morning – definitely the sensation of belonging there.” – E.B. White

Food Notes

  • Heads up: Original India on Whyte Ave and 105 Street (opened by the owners of Little India’s Maurya Palace) is coming soon (though a little later than the Edmonton Journal had reported).
  • A new Ric’s Grill will be opening in the summer on the city’s west end (17520 100 Avenue).
  • Edmonton’s “newest cocktail venue” (as they are billing themselves), Stir, is now open downtown (10304 111 Street).
  • Vue Weekly has released their ballot for their annual Golden Fork Awards. Answer at least 10 questions to be entered into their draw for $700 worth of restaurant gift certificates!
  • I love the idea of so-called “one trick pony” restaurants. While perhaps better for curious food tourists than locals, it’s a neat idea that I hope spreads north soon.
  • A good answer to the question: should one always dress up when going to a semi-formal restaurant?
  • Need a time-killer? A vocabulary game called FreeRice donates 20 grains of rice to the UN World Food Program for each word the player selects correctly.
  • One of my favorite food bloggers, based out of New York, flipped a complete 180 last week and is going back to blogging basics, and is uncertain as to whether or not she will be able to honestly review again, as she’s not only become friends with some of the people in the food world, but also because she’s “ultimately someone who wants to make other people happy.” Having some kind of cover of obscurity is essential, as she notes, and I know that’s one of the reasons why I cling to this more anonymous medium of publishing.

Great for Sharing: OPM Wok ‘n Cocktail Bar

Annie and I had tried OPM (1820 99 Street) in South Edmonton Common a few weeks after they opened, and like most restaurants that attempted to ride the fusion wave (L’Azia comes to mind as well), we thought it failed miserably.

OPM was the location of Megan’s birthday dinner on Saturday, and a gathering of friends wasn’t a bad reason to give the restaurant another go. By the time Mack and I arrived, quite a sizable group were already seated at one of the long, high tables in the lounge.

Mack and I decided to split two dishes. OPM’s citrus spin on his perennial favorite, the Orange Ginger Beef ($13.49), was a no-brainer, while our second selection was geared toward my personal craving for a noodle of some sort – the ‘Old World’ Chow Mein ($12.49), egg noodles tossed with chicken, bbq pork, black beans and vegetables.

For a busy Saturday night (no reservations, of course), and such a large party, I was pleasantly surprised that our food seemed to take no time at all. Though the plates themselves appeared to be small, the servings turned out to be quite filling. I actually ended up enjoying the ginger beef more, complete with a guilty side of those crunchy fried noodles often found atop “Asian”-style salads. In my opinion, the chow mein was too bland, though Mack enjoyed it well enough.

All in all, I thought their tapas menu functioned quite well to encourage sharing among friends, and as long as you aren’t expecting “authentic” Asian cuisine, the service and decent food doesn’t make for a bad night out.

The rest of the pictures are here.

Really?

Jane & Megan

Mack and I

Orange Ginger Beef

‘Old World” Chow Mein

Happy birthday Megan!

Disappointingly Anti-climactic: NAIT’s Student Showcase Buffet

It must have been my Mum’s enthusiastic reception of NAIT’s Student Showcase Buffet at it’s School of Hospitality on a segment of “What’s Eating Theo” on CityTV that drove me to make a reservation for us last year. When I called in October to inquire about the next available date, I was told that a table on April 11, a wait of a good six months, was the best we could do. Despite the fact that the buffet is only a once-a-week occurrence during the September-to-April school year, I thought such a lengthy wait list was telling of the quality of the food served. As well, the dishes shown in the CityTV segment included kangaroo chops, something rarely seen in the Edmonton market, leading me to believe that the menu was skewered towards the difficult-to-prepare and the exotic. Turns out I was wrong on both counts.

Mack picked me up from work, but we left a little bit later than we should have. By the time we reached the vicinity of NAIT, it was already past our scheduled 11:15am sitting time. We circled around the various lots and parkades for a good fifteen minutes, and finally found some empty spaces near the HP Centre. Note to anyone heading to the buffet, especially those with later seating times – plan to arrive at least 20 minutes before, as available spaces are incredibly hard to come by.

We entered Ernest’s, the School of Hospitality’s restaurant, at nearly 20 to noon. We were told that we had to vacate our table promptly at 12:15, which left us with about half an hour to make the most of the buffet, something we weren’t told when I initially made the reservation. Thankfully, they had seated my parents already, and both my Mum and Dad had filled up one plate each by that point.

We were offered coffee or tea immediately, though later we saw that other patrons were given an additional option of Coke in glass bottles. Sparing no time, Mack and I picked up plates and headed to the salad bar to start our rounds.

We worked out way through platters of cheese, canapes, grilled vegetables, and even a student carving prosciutto from a slab. Most of the meat, seafood and pasta stations were concentrated in the centre, though two were lone tables on the periphery.

Had I been smarter, I would have picked up more to try on the first go-around, but from what I did get to sample, I liked the Moroccan chicken the best. My Mum and Mack preferred the lamb kabobs, while my Dad enjoyed the prime rib roast. I was disappointed that there was nothing “exotic” or even remotely unique on the menu.

In my opinion, the dessert spread was better than the appetizers and mains. An assortment of chocolates, cakes, and tarts greeted us. The warmed cinnamon buns were my favorite, while Mack quite enjoyed his New York-style cheesecake.

I want to place a caveat on this review, as to be fair, a combination of our late-start, parking challenge, time pressure, and the overwhelming expectations created after a six month wait negatively colored our experience of the buffet overall. For those who arrive early and have the opportunity of a more leisurely meal and are well aware of the hour-long time limit, I’m sure a good time can be had. But because of all of the factors above, I can’t honestly say I enjoyed myself that day.

The full set of photos are on Mack’s Flickr site.

Mack and I @ “Nest’s”

My parents

Dining area

Appetizers (with a fat sculpture)
Appetizers (the duck made out of a green apple is too cute!)
Prosciutto station (the student was having a difficult time carving the tough slab of meat)
Mack’s plate
My plate
Part of the dessert section
Beautifully decorated tart
Poached pears
Warm cinammon buns
Mack’s dessert plate
My dessert plate