Food Notes for November 13, 2023

Openings

Upcoming Events

Local News

What I Ate

  • We’re hardly ever in that area at dinner time, but we were in South Common on Friday night – the perfect opportunity to finally pick-up take-out from Jerusalem Shawarma. They didn’t disappoint – they were fast and efficient, and the portion size was massive. We ordered the family platter for three, packed with chicken, potatoes, rice, salad, and side of hummus and pita. We had tasty leftovers for days.
  • Jerusalem Shawarma

Emily couldn’t wait to dig into the Jerusalem Shawarma platter (I can’t blame her)

Food Notes for November 6, 2023

Openings

  • The Colombian’s fourth location opened on November 4 in Mill Creek, at 8905 99 Street.
  • A new wine bar called Coterie has joined the mix in Old Strathcona, located next to Boxer at 10330 80 Avenue. The Journal profiled proprietors Trystan Fung and Ainsley Lamash.
  • The Table in Onoway, Alberta, has opened up a sister café called Milk & Honey in Edmonton. It is located inside the Saints Church, 6315 199 Street. They serve up coffee, sandwiches, and pastries.
  • Hanako Sushi opened in October in Terwillegar, at 2341 Rabbit Hill Road.
  • Mr. Halal Burger opened last week at 9715 137 Avenue. Their chicken, beef, and French fries are all halal, and their milkshakes and churros are kosher.
  • Red Deer-based Bubble tea shop Bestea will open an Edmonton location on November 8 at MacEwan University’s Robbins Health Learning Centre.

Closures

Upcoming Events

Local News

Beyond Edmonton

  • No Edmonton restaurants made the longlist, so it is no surprise that Edmonton was absent from the just released Canada’s Best New Restaurants top 10. But it was a little shocking that Alberta was completely cut out from the top 10.

What I Ate

  • It’s become a bit of a Saturday morning tradition to grab a coffee while Emily is participating in an activity downtown. This week saw a visit to Lock Stock (their herb and cheese biscuit falls a close second to their koign amann for me).
  • Lock Stock

Coffee and biscuit from Lock Stock

  • Our volunteer team is deep in planning mode for the 7th annual Chinatown Dining Week, coming January 2024. We hit up China Marble for a team meeting – their crispy noodles and stir-fried pea shoots really hit the spot.
  • China Marble

Our spread from China Marble

  • We were #gifted Evoolution’s advent calendar, comprised of 24 vials of oils, vinegars, and salts. We were first introduced to the calendar during the pandemic, and Emily enjoyed exploring the different smells and flavours of the tiny bottles (small enough to fit in her kid-sized hands!). Evoolution has simple video recipe ideas for each day – now that Emily is older, I’m looking forward to actually preparing some of the dishes with her this year! The calendar is $69.95 and makes for a unique gift, especially for those looking for something more savoury than the typical chocolate advent. Thanks to Evoolution for helping us continue this tradition!
  • Evoolution

With this year’s Evoolution Advent Calendar

Food Notes for October 30, 2023

Influencers can boost restaurant traffic, but only to a point

To open a second location of Baekjeong in Edmonton, James Kook’s go-to marketing move was to invite five influencers to help spread the word. But he doesn’t know if it worked.

“Since opening, it’s been pretty busy, but we have no idea if it’s related to the influencers,” said Kook, senior food and beverage manager for Mirae Investment Inc., which owns and operates the Korean barbecue restaurant and several other restaurants in Alberta and B.C. “Word spreads before the opening and some people already knew about it.”

On the other hand, Café Bel-Air co-owner Avinash Soochit knows exactly why reservations went through the roof for high tea at his Mauritian restaurant: a post by Stephanie Truong, aka Ms. Hangry Foodie.

“If I could have a statue of her, I would,” laughed Soochit, who explicitly thanks Truong on the restaurant’s website.

While some restaurants can draw a straight line from an influencer’s post to increased business, the connection is a lot harder to determine for others. But an intentional strategy increases the chances of success, said social media strategist Linda Hoang.

“I think influencers can be super-effective and useful for businesses if done right,” said Hoang, an influencer in her own right. “But if they go into it without a plan, they don’t know what they’re looking for, and it can lead to a bad experience.”

Kook estimated that Mirae spent around $1,000 in food costs to host the influencers at Baekjeong’s opening in Mayfield Common. He indicated that Mirae chose the influencers based on their follower count, and focused on those who post more frequently about Asian cuisine. He also noted that the influencers were not given any direction or timelines for the content.

“I don’t want to get a bad reputation,” said Kook. “We are not hiring them. We are just asking them to do us a favour.”

Hoang recommends being more strategic. Businesses should be clear about their goals and their content parameters (e.g., an Instagram post as opposed to an Instagram story), and they should ask for analytics, she said.

“Who is the person’s audience?” Hoang recommends asking. “Are their followers in Edmonton? Would they be my customers?”

Cafe Bel-Air

Café Bel-Air co-owner Avinash Soochit said his business has benefitted from working with influencers

If restaurant owners aren’t careful, they can be taken advantage of.

“I think a lot of influencers are just trying to get a free meal, and they don’t actually care about your business,” said Hoang.

On Instagram, secondary engagement is also a good metric to keep in mind, Hoang added. “Almost all of my posts get saved or sent,” she said. “If it’s interesting for them to send it to someone, it’s top of mind.”

Truong, who works in marketing full-time, creates content on the side as Ms. Hangry Foodie on Instagram and TikTok. In the past three months, her reels have been saved an average of 264 times each and shared an average of 692 times each.

Truong said her focus is primarily on new businesses, and most of the time, she covers the costs of sampling the food herself. “My goal is brand awareness,” said Truong. “I want to spread the word about new places, and I like to be the first to have shared it.”

As a result of seeking out new businesses to highlight, Truong rarely returns to a business more than once.

Transparency and disclosure are important to Truong. She clearly states when she has been invited for a meal, as that tends to affect her impression. “If you’re getting something for free, you try to put a positive spin on the content,” said Truong. “Whenever I’m hosted, it’s almost never negative.”

Her audience has been known to push back against what they perceive as too much paid work, she shared.

“Back in August, I did three paid partnerships in a few weeks, and my engagement went down and comments about those partnerships came up,” said Truong. “My audience got annoyed because they don’t follow me for ads. Balance is important.”

Truong’s followers frequently message her to let her know they’ve tried a business she has recommended. Less often, she hears directly from the business. “In the few years I’ve done this, I’ve only once been invited for dinner by a restaurant owner as a thank-you,” said Truong.

A case of influence in action

Café Bel-Air, which opened at the end of 2021, was one business that publicly thanked Truong for her impact. Truong booked and paid for Cafe Bel-Air’s high tea like any other customer, then posted about her experience in April 2022. “And the rest is history,” said Soochit.

The cafe was besieged by reservation requests immediately after the post, he said. “We started getting so many phone calls and e-mails,” said Soochit. “150 reservations! We could not respond to everyone.”

The increased interest led Café Bel-Air to develop an online reservation system. “Before Stephanie, people had to call and book,” said Soochit. “And we have less wastage of food now because people have to pre-pay for high tea.”

Unlike Baekjeong, Café Bel-Air does not proactively approach influencers. “If we focus on social media, we are going to neglect the food and the service,” said Soochit.

That said, when Soochit was approached by Lincoln Ho (Yegventuresfood on Instagram and TikTok), he offered him a complimentary meal.

“He said, ‘I’d like to showcase Café Bel-Air to Edmontonians,'” said Soochit. “I didn’t know Lincoln before. Somebody of this stature coming over, the food is the least I can do as a thank-you. He didn’t promise anything, but I knew the aftermath would be a blessing.”

Soochit was satisfied with the video Ho produced, re-sharing it on Café Bel-Air’s own social media. He believes the exposure did result in some additional customers.

At the end of the day, Soochit recognizes that social media can only go so far. “We strive hard to give good service,” said Soochit. “Everybody does food. Why would people come to your shop and spend their hard-earned money?”

Hoang echoed that sentiment. “Influencers might be able to get people through the door, but if your food isn’t good, or the service sucks, people aren’t going to come back.”

Openings

Upcoming Events

  • The Leftovers Foundation is hosting a Food Rescue FUN-raiser on November 8 at CRAFT Beer Market that will support their rescue food operations. Adult tickets are $55 and include buffet-style food and 1 drink ticket.

Local News

What I Ate

  • Padmanadi has been the site of many work lunches, including one last week. Their curry vermicelli soup was the perfect warm-up that day.
  • Padmanadi

Curry vermicelli soup from Padmanadi

  • We’ve most often grabbed Dagu for take-out but it was nice to eat in for a change, as Emily and Ellie adored their noodles (noodles are unlimited for dine-in customers). Their crossing the bridge soup is also fun to put together and eat.
  • Dagu

Crossing the bridge soup from Dagu

Food Notes for October 23, 2023

Openings

  • CBD CBN, which stands for Catering By Day, Catering By Night, is opening a private dining experience to “demonstrate how the…cannabis plant flavour profiles can be paired with traditional ingredients”. In addition to their location at 101, 10130 105 Street (formerly Kitchen by Brad), they also offer catering.
  • A new Korean restaurant called Rock’N Tofu has opened at #104, 2920 Calgary Trail.
  • Chain bakery Maverick’s Donut Company has opened a location on the north side at 15729 37 Street. It is the second store to open in Edmonton, and third in the area (another shop is located in Stony Plain).

Upcoming Events

  • The Italian Centre is hosting its first-ever Festival of Cheese in support of the University Hospital Foundation. Tickets are $131.25 and include cheese stations, cheese-forward dishes, and beer and wine pairings.
  • This year’s final Eats on 118 for the year are taking place on November 9 and 30. Tickets are $60 and include tastes at 3 area restaurants.

Local News

What I Ate

  • I was lucky enough to have lunch with Ben (and Linda, haha) at El Fogon last week. He was eyeing up my arepa as any good little foodie would.
  • El Fogon

Shredded beef and gouda arepa from El Fogon

  • My friend and I tried El Jardin for the first time. They were packed (as expected) on an Oilers game night. Of the dishes we sampled, the Acapulco ceviche was the standout – fresh, bright flavours, and we really loved the accompanying plantain chips.
  • El Jardin

Acapulco ceviche from El Jardin

Food Notes for October 16, 2023

Openings

  • Alternate Route Coffee has launched a coffee bar in Leduc County’s Business Entrepreneur Centre, open every Thursday and Friday alongside Chartier’s Mother Bakery. It is located at 606 18 Avenue, Nisku.
  • Fuzion Donuts is building out their second location, to be found at 12866 97 Street.

Closures

  • Community Taps + Pizza is closing on October 18.

Upcoming Events

Local News

  • On the heels of The Common re-offering lunch on Thursdays and Fridays, Bundok also announced that they will be resuming lunch service on October 25. It’s great to see these small signs of growth in the right direction downtown.
  • Speaking of downtown, four small businesses, including The Growlery Beer Co., and Good Goods, were chosen by the Downtown Business Association to receive grants of up to $250,000 to open up locations downtown. Specific location details or timelines have yet to be announced.
  • Congratulations to the winners of the Edmonton qualifier of the Great Kitchen Party: JP Dublado of Red Deer Resort and Casino won gold, silver went to Winnie Chen of Fu’s Repair Shop, and Bri Campbell took home the bronze and the People’s Choice award. Dublado will be representing Edmonton in the finals in Ottawa in February.
  • After seven years, the owners of Hansen Distillery have put their business up for sale: “we can no longer devote the same time and energy to our business that it deserves, without compromising our values and our time with our family.” No changes to hours or products will take place while the distillery is up for sale.
  • Northern Chicken’s 104 Street location had their window broken this week.
  • Edify checked out Links Woodfire Sausage Co. in St. Albert.
  • Happy fifth birthday to Roasti Coffee!
  • John Lance has joined the Fairmont Hotel Macdonald as its new executive chef.
  • It’s hard to believe Jacek Chocolate Couture has been making their popular advent calendars for a decade! They are now available for pre-order, and are guaranteed to sell out.
  • The Local Good, which in its time had organized Green Drinks and the Resilience Festival, has decided to dissolve the organization after 16 years.

Urban Agriculture and Farming

What I Ate

  • I stopped by Happy and Olive while in the neighbourhood and picked up their caramel apple pop tart. It was as good as it looked.
  • Happy and Olive

Caramel apple pop tart from Happy and Olive

  • We satisfied a craving for Chinese food with take-out from Spirit Bistro on the weekend. We had loads of leftovers, which always makes me happy.
  • Spirit Bistro

Take-out from Spirit Bistro

  • The Italian Centre was bustling when Su and I met up for an early dinner on Saturday before an event. Their Il Capo pizza, with bechamel, roasted potatoes, smoked pancetta, leeks, mozzarella, and honey was so tasty.
  • Italian Centre

Il Capo pizza from the Italian Centre

  • Su and I attended Lit Fest’s Food Matters event, held at Zocalo this year. The greenhouse was a lovely and unique venue, with twinkly lights over the bistro tables. We listened to Twyla Campbell and Dan Clapson speak about the process behind their cookbook Prairie, while we noshed on some of their recipes, including a rice casserole called kuppershnuck, and a vegetarian tourtiere prepared by chef Steve Brochu of MilkCrate. Tickets to LitFest’s A Brunch of Writers on October 22 are still on sale.
  • Lit Fest Food Matters

Bites from Prairie

Food Notes for October 9, 2023

Openings

  • Hirondelle Bakery returns to a storefront location after a hiatus. On October 15 and 29 will be their soft opening at 16753 84 Street.
  • Stephanie shared that a new ramen restaurant called Shiawase Ramen has opened in Cameron Heights at 623 Cameron Heights Drive NW.
  • Caribbean Latino Finger Licking Chicken has opened at 8702 118 Avenue.

Upcoming Events

  • Strathcona County is hosting Bread Planet, a “global carb adventure with samples from around the world”. The event includes Q & A sessions with chefs and food writers. Admission is free to the October 14 event, but it is recommended you arrive early.
  • The next Eats on 118 will take place on October 19. Tickets are $60 and include visits and tastings at three Alberta Avenue businesses.
  • Feed the Soul and Secret Ingredient YEG are collaborating to put on the Behind the Apron Series, with workshops “to create an inclusive and diverse space for people to experience the passion and stories that drive the great food you can find at local Farmers Markets and retailers in Edmonton.” The first event is a canning session with Johwanna Alleyne of Mojo Jojo Pickles on October 24. Tickets are $79.67.

Local News

  • Fuss Cupcakes held a grand opening at their relocated west end location on the weekend. Find them at 16956 111 Avenue.
  • The Common has re-opened for lunch on Thursdays and Fridays as of September 29.
  • Edify checked out Hanan’s Kitchen and Boxcar Coffee Shop.
  • Forest Heights mainstay Hilltop Pub has closed again after a fire. This closure is especially difficult given the pub only reopened in December after a fire in 2021.
  • NAIT’s Culinary Program prepared 800 Thanksgiving meals that were served by Boyle Street Community Services and Bissell Centre.
  • Love with Humanity has set up an outdoor food bank in the neighbourhood of Kensington. They have set up nine similar food banks in Calgary.
  • The newest episode of the Well Endowed Podcast explores “the nuances around accessing food and why our goal should be to help people thrive, not just survive.”

What I Ate

  • Returning to the office will mean many more arepas from El Fogon are in my future. They’re so good.
  • El Fogon

Shredded beef and gouda arepa from El Fogon

  • I was very fortunate to have been #hosted at the Fairmont Macdonald’s Confederation Lounge last week. Poppy Barley launched their new collection of knitwear with a dinner that highlighted the sustainability practices of both companies. We enjoyed three courses from the new fall/winter menu, including a delicious green pea risotto that used the last of summer’s bounty. The menu also includes a special cocktail called Knitwear – $1 from every drink sold will be donated to the YWCA’s youth programs.
  • Confederation Lounge at the Fairmont Macdonald

Green pea risotto from Confederation Lounge

  • With such gorgeous weather over the weekend, it seemed like a waste not to take advantage of this extended al fresco season. The kids loved people watching on Northern Chicken’s patio, and the Doritos mac and cheese (as always) was the family favourite.
  • Northern Chicken

Brisket sandwich and Doritos mac and cheese from Northern Chicken

Food Notes for October 2, 2023

I will be returning to my day job later this week, after a little over a year on maternity leave. While it will be my intention to keep up with the original reporting that you read here (and republished on Taproot Edmonton), it may take me some time to determine how I can meet all of my responsibilities and stay sane in the process! As always, thanks for reading and supporting local.

Openings

Closures

  • Shojo announced that they are closing permanently: “We’re not willing to compromise on our values and cut certain corners to be more profitable. A major part of why we are successful is our people. We truly believe we have some of the best guests and staff around.” Their last day of service is October 7.
  • After ten years, Kaeng Thai Bistro in Old Strathcona announced their permanent closure. Their final day of service was September 28.
  • While not a full closure, Zwick’s announced that due to demand on the wholesale side of their business, they have decided to close their retail storefront, effective September 24. They are still accepting pre-orders though, for those with a hankering for their soft pretzels!

Local News

Urban Agriculture and Farming

  • It may be a bit too late for this year, but combating climate change can start with harvesting fruit on public lands, says this St. Albert Gazette piece.

What I Ate

  • I had a couple of great meals at Rosewood over the last few weeks. This included an excuse to have the always delicious patty melt.
  • Rosewood Foods

Patty melt from Rosewood Foods

  • After writing a story about Happy and Olive a couple of weeks ago, I knew I wanted to go back and sample the fare. The latke and burger were both delicious, but that fried angel food cake was a surprising stunner.
  • Happy and Olive

Lunch at Happy and Olive

  • It’s interesting to note how wine bars serving up simple fare have been popping up all over Edmonton (with Bibo in the Strathcona Hotel to rejoin the fray soon). Mack and I checked out the newest – Nowhere Wine Bar – over the weekend. We appreciated the people-watching perch.
  • Nowhere Wine Bar

Onion dip and wine at Nowhere Wine Bar

  • We also celebrated our wedding anniversary at RGE RD, and finally decided to indulge in the Road Trip (the blind multi-course tasting menu). We did not regret that decision.
  • RGE RD

Mack at RGE RD

Food Notes for September 18, 2023

Happy and Olive embraced by community in Crestwood

The four hospitality veterans behind a new restaurant in central-west Edmonton have been thrilled by the neighbourhood response so far.

Happy and Olive is the brainchild of Frank and Andrea Olson, who operated Red Ox Inn for 25 years and Canteen for 10 years, and Dave and Ann Jackson, who ran The Wired Cup for 10 years. The restaurant (named after Frank Olson’s great uncle and his wife) opened on July 13 at 9640 142 Street NW in Crestwood Centre, and it has been busy ever since.

“The day we got our permits and turned on our open sign, we had incredible traffic because people were waiting, peering into the windows,” Andrea Olson said. Added Frank: “We have done zero advertising and have been terrible about promoting. But people were hungry. It was like they hadn’t eaten in five years.”

The Wired Cup closed in 2019, nudged to closure due to the LRT construction in Strathearn, and Red Ox Inn never re-opened after the pandemic, when the Olsons chose to focus on Canteen. When negotiations to extend the lease for Canteen fell through last year, the Olsons started to explore life outside of the restaurant business, and Andrea obtained a real estate licence. But when the vacancy in Crestwood came up, the opportunity was too enticing not to proceed.

“Frank and I saw the space and thought, ‘What a space, what a neighbourhood, what a patio,'” said Andrea. “Never did I think for Frank and I that we had another restaurant in us.”

They made a call to their longtime friends, the Jacksons; Frank and Dave have known each other since high school, and Red Ox Inn and The Wired Cup were neighbouring businesses. “We had entertained the idea of opening up a small place again,” said Dave Jackson. “This is a juggernaut, but we were ready.”

The Jacksons’ participation made the prospect palatable for the Olsons. “We wouldn’t have done this without a partnership,” said Frank. “It takes some pressure off.”

The concept behind Happy and Olive is ambitious. Open seven days a week, Dave and Ann lead the café service on weekday mornings. Frank and Andrea arrive to support lunch, happy hour, and dinner service. Weekends offer brunch, happy hour, and dinner. All four have been putting in 12-hour days.

“You strike while the iron is hot,” said Dave. After the pandemic era, the long hours are welcome, suggested Frank. “People can come any time. It’s really good, after COVID especially. We got tired of opening, closing. Everybody is tired of that.”

Their landlord has told them Happy and Olive has been a boon for the other retail shops in the complex. “He heard from our fellow tenants that they’ve had an uptick in traffic throughout the day,” said Andrea.

Happy and Olive

(From left) Frank and Andrea Olson and Dave and Ann Jackson

The menu has taken a few elements from the previous establishments, such as the muffins and the brekkie sandwich from The Wired Cup, the lamb chops from Canteen, and bacon jam from Red Ox Inn. But much of the preparation has been streamlined. “We’ve simplified it. The menu shares things with other parts of the menu. And there are no tweezers and meat glue,” laughed Frank.

The latkes, topped with mushroom, Montreal smoked meat, or smoked salmon, have been a runaway hit. Ann Jackson said the rosemary parmesan fries are “addictive,” while her husband called the burger, topped with the aforementioned bacon jam, a “revelation.”

Still, given Happy and Olive has only been open for two months, some things are still a work in progress. Diners can expect menu tweaks as the cooler weather sets in, and the restaurant has plans for a covered patio, in an effort to extend al fresco options into the shoulder seasons.

Given the decades of industry experience between the two couples, it isn’t surprising Happy and Olive has been well received so far. While they all agree the location has been one factor in that success, providing a dependable experience is also key. “The menu has to be executable consistently. That’s the business,” said Frank. “Plus a little innovation,” Andrea added.

There is also something to be said for good hospitality provided directly by the owner-operators, noted Dave. “Any time people come into an establishment that you own, you are fostering that relationship. You are going to care more than your best employee. And it’s great if you can remember their name, especially at our age!”

The owners of Happy and Olive are hopeful that this restaurant, like their previous businesses, can contribute to what makes the city unique. “At The Wired Cup, people were always telling us, ‘This place reminds me of Victoria or Vancouver,'” said Dave. “Why can’t it remind you of Edmonton?”

Openings

  • Often Restaurant and Bar hosted their grand opening on September 16. It fills the vacant space in the McLeod Building (10009 101A Avenue), most recently occupied by Ra Bar.
  • Odd Company Brewing opened its Ritchie Taproom on September 15 at 9959 76 Avenue. This is the company’s second location (the first located in the Oliver Exchange Building).
  • Desi-licious is a new Indian restaurant that opened at 10010 104 Street (formerly occupied by a Basil Pasta Bar location). They are (if I am not mistaken), the first restaurant downtown to offer dosas!
  • Vine Arts, a Calgary-based wine and spirits store, has opened an Edmonton location at 10961 124 Street.

Upcoming Events

  • Leduc is hosting its first Downtown Dining Week from September 15-23, highlighting 11 restaurants.
  • Blind Enthusiasm is hosting its inaugural Barrel Fest on September 23. The event features 15 breweries who “devotes significant production effort to barrel-aging and barrel-fermenting” beer, cider, and wine. Tickets are $40.54.
  • NAIT’s Culinary Team is hosting Sunday lunches as the students practice for the 2024 IKA Culinary Olympics. Tickets are $25 for a 3-course meal, and dates run into January.
  • This year’s Food Matters at LitFest will feature Prairie authors Dan Clapson and Twyla Campbell. Advance tickets are $37.53 and include light bites.

Local News

Beyond Edmonton

  • En Route’s Best New Restaurants 2023 longlist came out last week, and unfortunately, there isn’t any Edmonton representation this year. Three Calgary restaurants made the cut.

What I Ate

Small note to let readers know that there will be no Food Notes next week – we’re going to the mountains for the weekend. As always, subscribing to the Food Roundup at Taproot Edmonton is another option to keep on top of the city’s food and hospitality news!

  • Our family had one last meal (and Ellie’s first) at Chartier this weekend. I had honestly forgotten just how good their poutine is. I’ll also miss their warm hospitality. There is a chance Chartier will have their business extended, but if not, get there before September 30 for one final visit.

Chartier

Ellie eying up the poutine

  • A friend and I met up at El Corazon to try it for the first time. We enjoyed the food (I appreciated the option for lamb tacos) but the music on a Friday was a tad loud for us to comfortably carry on a conversation. I realize putting that in writing makes me sound “old”.
  • El Corazon

Lamb barbacoa tacos from El Corazon

  • CinnZeo has been my guilty pleasure since high school (a friend and I would go to the food court explicitly for a cinnamon bun). I don’t indulge often, but now when I do, some of that guilt is lifted when I’m able to snag a box through Too Good to Go.

CinnZeo

CinnZeo FTW

Food Notes for September 11, 2023

Italian Bakery returns to its roots with rebuilt store in Chinatown

The Italian Bakery is finally ready to re-open in Chinatown with a brand-new building.

A fire devastated the original structure in 2020, after the company’s Beverly site had to be rebuilt after a fire in 2016. While undertaking another major construction project so soon was not ideal, owner Rosaly DeVenz said doing so was the only option.

“My parents (founders Antonio and Aurora Frattin) started this bakery here in 1962, and this was their home,” said DeVenz. “We rebuilt it for them.”

Construction was supposed to last only a year, but due to COVID-19, materials shortages, and contractor challenges, the timeline extended to three years. Unfortunately, both Antonio and Aurora passed away in 2022 and were not able to see the final result. The new build at 10644 97 Street NW included a customized apartment unit above the bakery that was intended for them. Still, DeVenz knows her parents would be pleased with the outcome.

“They would be happy that we rebuilt in this neighbourhood and will step up our game,” said DeVenz. “You have to make out of the rubble like a phoenix rising, and make it bigger and better.”

DeVenz is aiming for a soft opening later in September. Although the footprint of the new building is only slightly larger than the previous one, the design has significantly enlarged the retail area. This will allow the location to stock fresh produce, milk, eggs, and more grocery items than before, as well as accommodate a larger deli.

Rosaly DeVenz

Rosaly DeVenz, owner of the Italian Bakery

In addition, DeVenz is excited about an expanded food menu. The bakery’s popular personalized sandwiches will be back, and new dine-in options will include fresh pasta, pizzas, soup, salads, and gelato, all made on-site. The shop will also offer a variety of prepared heat-and-serve meals, made in-house and by other local businesses such as Pazzo Pazzo and Sorrentino’s. While most of the bakery items will be produced at the larger facility in Beverly, DeVenz promised that doughnuts, Danishes, and buns will be made on location.

DeVenz acknowledged that the menu will be somewhat of an experiment at the start, given the business’s lengthy absence from the area. “The neighbourhood’s changed, our clientele has changed,” said DeVenz. “But we hope that bringing new people in through the store might help revitalize Chinatown.”

With that in mind, the shop has increased its seating area for customers, intended for shoppers to enjoy a meal or a drink from the café. “What we’re trying to do is create a place to go sit down and go for coffee,” said DeVenz. “After the pandemic, I think people are missing environments to socialize.”

In an effort to appeal to a broader customer base, DeVenz had an indoor bocce ball court installed. “You have to have ‘Instagrammable moments’ nowadays,” laughed DeVenz. “We wanted to do something different and bring something that instigates memories for people and their families.”

DeVenz is aware that some folks may be avoiding Chinatown because of the negativity surrounding the area. “People shouldn’t be scared,” she said. “The news puts images into people’s minds. This neighbourhood has had a lot of ups and downs. We’re due for an up.”

Openings

  • Smoky Bear has announced that it will be relocating downtown, and their last day of service in the current Old Strathcona location will be October 21. Bella will open in its place, “an Italian (ish) restaurant.  Food inspired by the traditions and culture of Italy cooked with modern techniques and ingredients.  Produce chosen and cooked when it is shining the brightest.  Seasonal vegetables treated simply to showcase the quality.  A selection of handmade pastas made from Alberta flour.  Proteins in large format made for sharing just like at Nona’s table.”
  • Lui-Chi’s has opened a second location at the base of the Stantec Tower downtown.
  • Von’s has re-opened downtown at 10065 Jasper Avenue, Unit 101, in the space that formerly housed State and Main. Von’s had closed the Old Strathcona location earlier this year.

Upcoming Events

  • The next Nosh Food Fest runs September 16-17 in Sherwood Park. More than 100 food and beverage vendors are expected.
  • Workshop Eatery’s Bacon Day will return on September 22, with proceeds going to MS Canada. Tickets are $95 and include access to food and cocktail stations, a giant charcuterie board, and a bacon dessert cook-off between chef Paul Shufelt and a mystery chef.
  • Eats on 118 is back on September 28. Tickets are $60 and include visits to three restaurants.
  • Ice District will be hosting Western Canada’s largest Oktoberfest celebration from September 22-30. It will include a beer hall, German food, vendors, music, and games. Admission is $25.

Local News

What I Ate

  • It has literally been years since I’ve dined in Pho Tau Bay because of the pandemic (we’ve had a lot of take-out, though). It was so great to be back.
  • Pho Tau Bay

My usual at Tau Bay

  • We finally hit up the 124 Street Grand Sunday Market on the weekend, and was happy to see Coast Lunch Box back as a vendor. I love their buttermilk fried chicken sandwich. There are only a few more weeks of outdoor markets left – get out to them if you can!
  • Coast Lunch Box

Coast Lunch Box’s fried chicken sandwich

Food Notes for September 4, 2023

Group behind El Jardin and El Corazon has String of Restaurants in Mind

The owners of the recently launched El Jardin have big plans to open several more restaurants in Edmonton.

The restaurant, whose name means “the garden” in Spanish, opened in the Mercer Warehouse in July. It’s a second venture from business partners Hifa Maleki and Percy Wiredu, who opened El Corazon in Glenora’s West Block in April 2022.

Maleki and Wiredu named their company 10 Hospitality Group, as they intend to open 10 restaurants, each with a unique concept, across Edmonton by 2027. They already have a third, named El Cielo (“the sky” in Spanish), slated for the Keswick neighbourhood in February 2024.

“We love Edmonton and want to see very exciting things done in the city,” Maleki told Taproot. “We have to be momentum shifters. We want to inspire more people to open businesses in our community.”

The space in the Mercer, which was formerly occupied by Rostizado, was an opportunity too good to pass up. Maleki said the landlord entertained 30 offers before selecting them.

“They wanted a restaurant to bring on a different clientele,” she said. “We told them that we’re going to do it justice, maintain the integrity of the building, and bring something classy.”

Maleki said all of their restaurant concepts are developed organically, influenced by the spaces they inhabit. “Our thought was because this space is hidden from the street it’s like a secret garden,” said Maleki. “All of our cocktails also have some kind of botanical in them — rosewater, saffron, basil, rosemary. Same with our food, we use aromatics unapologetically. It may not look like you’re in a garden, but it tastes like one.”El Jardin

El Jardin co-owner Hifa Maleki and general manager Mehraz Soltani

The menu at El Jardin is similar to El Corazon’s in the way it highlights dishes from across the Latin American region. “We want to be influenced and inspired and incorporate more of a range of countries because it allows us to be more playful and offer more variety,” said Maleki.

However, Maleki points out that El Jardin has a slight focus on Peruvian items, especially cold seafood plates such as ceviches and aguachiles. One of the most popular dishes since opening is the tuna tiradito, a seared tuna with Latin and Asian flavours.

El Jardin is not the duo’s first venture downtown. Wiredu had been running El Beso for a few years before Maleki joined in on the ownership. Due to circumstances with the landlord beyond their control, they were forced to close El Beso in the same month El Jardin opened.

“We loved the brand and the location,” said Maleki. “It was heartbreaking to open another business while we were closing one. There’s a possibility we’ll revive El Beso in the future, but we would look for a space that would do it justice.”

Maleki is aware of the stigma surrounding downtown, but believes the spotlight has been disproportionately negative.

“There’s not enough focus on the great things that are going on downtown,” she said. “I am a female business owner and I am responsible for a lot of staff. If I thought they were at risk, I wouldn’t have opened a business here.”

While El Jardin has only been open for just over a month, feedback has been positive so far. “Everyone’s been very receptive,” said Maleki. “People are excited to see that there’s something new downtown.”

Openings

  • Two locations of Paris Baguette, a South Korean bakery and cafe chain, are to open in Edmonton soon: at Southpark on Whyte (Unit #8, 10607 82 Avenue) and West Edmonton Mall.
  • It looks like new life might be coming to the vacant space in the McLeod Building downtown, named Often.
  • Quickly x Kokoriko, a bubble tea and Korean fried chicken shop has opened at 11013 26 Avenue NW.
  • Butter Chicken & More opened up earlier this summer at 6875 Ad Astra Blvd NW.
  • In May, Sushi Cafe Madang took over the space formerly occupied by Green Ash Cafe.

Upcoming Events

  • A Culina Highlands throwback pop-up dinner is taking place at the Culina McCauley event space on September 14. Tickets are $59 and include a family-style dinner.
  • On September 21, University of Alberta is hosting Dr. Michael Fakhri, a UN Special Rapporteur and Professor at the University of Oregon School of Law to discuss the fundamental right to food. The event is free but requires pre-registration.
  • Mark your calendar for the next Chinatown After Dark event, on September 23, from 5-10pm in the alley behind China Marble (10566 97 Street). Expect tasty food and fun activities in an unusual location.

Local News

  • After a brief closure for renovations, Bar Bricco has re-opened.
  • Nepali restaurant Thamel Bistro has re-opened as Thamel Eatery in August at the same location, 12413 118 Avenue.
  • Noodleholic has relocated from Chinatown to the southside, at 3350 Parsons Road (formerly Wow Chicken).
  • Congratulations to Woodwork on a decade in business! To celebrate, they’re offering a throwback menu of cocktails and food from their original menu in September.
  • Congratulations also to La Poutine for reaching their 12th anniversary.
  • Edify checked out La Carraia’s gelato burger, and their latest Fav Eats is all about The Art of Cake.
  • Fuge Sausage worked with a NWT evacuee who has a sausage shop in Yellowknife to replicate one of his sausage recipes. Proceeds from the sale of the sausages are going to the evacuee and wildfire relief.
  • Two Yellowknife evacuees worked with local Pakistani organizations to provide hundreds of halal and vegetarian meals to fellow evacuees.
  • It might be a little soon for some to be thinking about winter, but Baijiu is already preparing for its cold weather patio season. Baijiu shared that it will be installing a unique infrared heated structure for winter.
  • The Journal featured the origins of a new coriander liqueur produced by Edmonton’s Above Average Drinks.

Urban Agriculture and Farming

What I Ate

  • It’s become a bit of an end-of-summer tradition for us to dine on Dalla’s patio before the end of those warm weather nights. The di mamma continues to be my go-to pasta at Dalla.
  • Dalla

Di mamma from Dalla

  • Emily and I enjoyed the Symphony in the Square on the weekend. It was a busy night for the food trucks, but I joked with Ariel from Filistix that the crowd was a fraction of what they would have seen on the craziest What the Truck?! night (something long time readers may remember). The chori burger was so tasty – I think it’s one of the underrated burgers in the city.
  • Filistix

Chori burger from Filistix

  • It’s been a while since our last Kasey Ramen order (I hope to make it to one of their pop-ups sooner or later!), but their tonkotsu sure hit the spot this weekend.
  • Kasey Ramen

Kasey Ramen tonkotsu at home