Day 2 in San Francisco: Fruitful Wanderings

When travelling, I have a tendency to try and plan out our days as much as possible. In the case of San Francisco however, I didn’t have much time to do so (I was still frantically reading guidebooks on the plane ride over). But because we had ten glorious days to spend in the Bay area, having a lack of itineraries actually worked out quite well – day two was a great example of that.

We started our day on a walking tour, something that has become a bit of a tradition on each of our last few trips. I was happy to find out that San Francisco is home to a bonanza of complimentary tours: San Francisco City Guides is a non-profit organization that offers over thirty different walks each month that span all areas of interest, for free (though donations are gratefully accepted).

We decided to start in Chinatown, given our hotel’s proximity to the neighbourhood. Our group of over thirty people trailed a guide for two hours or so, and though we were hoping it would get better along the way, we were disappointed.

Chinatown

Sure, we did learn some history (our guide pointed out some tiny windows that captive prostitutes would have used to solicit customers), and he did lead us through a live seafood and poultry shop that we probably would not have stepped foot in on our own, but having prefaced his tour with not wanting to perpetuate stereotypes, he seemed to create some of his own (among other things, he claimed that all Chinese, even those with several generations of American ancestors, were fluent in Chinese).

Such narrow alleys

Colourful lanterns

Not pets

One of the tour stops was the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company, which was on our “to visit” list anyway. It was rather underwhelming as well – dim, and set-up almost like a front with two women forming the v-shaped cookies out by hand, the owner seemed to be more annoyed with visitors than anything else, which just seemed counterintuitive given tourists probably made up most of his business. We left with a few bags of cookies, and also the following photo which cost us 50 cents to take.

Inside the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company

The guide did make one impression – he said that in the past, restaurants in Chinatown would build their restaurants on the ground floor so that customers would be able to “conduct their own health inspections” as they walked past to the seating area on the upper floors. The only relic left from this era of dining was Sam Wo, and since it was lunch time anyway, we thought it was a good choice as any.

Sam Wo

The food was definitely westernized, but was decent (and really, for $15, pretty darn cheap). The broccoli was the better dish, nicely cooked and coated in a savoury sauce.

Broccoli and beef, and yang zhou fried rice

Satisfied, we decided to continue on to Fisherman’s Wharf (aka Tourist Mecca).

The Wharf

The Wharf/Pier 39 turned out to be a great place to wander, especially on a hot day – the cool breeze off the water was refreshingly welcome.

Mack with Alcatraz in the background

I could have easily spent the afternoon watching the sea lions belch and flop

We did some browsing (it was hard to imagine the shops pre-tourist days – what did they sell if not t-shirts, postcards and cameras?), and eventually ended up at Ghirardelli Square.

Segway tours

After sampling free chocolate (the pumpkin spice chocolate tasted exactly like a pumpkin spice latte from Starbucks), we skipped the crazy line up at the Ghirardelli ice cream bar in favour of a treat from Kara’s Cupcakes.

It’s a lovely pink store, with the pricey $3.25 cupcake justified by Kara’s dedication to using local ingredients. My Fleur de Sel cupcake was rich, but the salty-sweet combination is slowly growing on me, and better yet, it had the perfect icing-to-cake ratio. Mack enjoyed Kara’s Carrot, pointing out that the cake was studded with raisins, and liked the cream cheese icing.

Cupcakes

Being an adult fan of Chuck E Cheese, it was no surprise our next stop was the Musee Mechanique on Pier 45 (something I had read about in one of the guides).

A different kind of football

The Musee Mechanique is an interactive celebration of antique arcade machines and mechanically operated musical instruments – instead of viewing the machines from behind a rope or pane of glass, you could actually play them!

Mack tried twice, but couldn’t beat the machine

I had such a blast! And given most machines cost a quarter to play, it was probably some of the cheapest fun we had in San Francisco (and one of my favourite destinations overall).

Aim and fire!

Back on the tourist path, we stepped inside Boudin Bakery, where San Francisco sourdough was invented. They had quite the little empire – a bakery, grocery/gift shop, and a formal restaurant. I loved the moving baskets whizzing overhead, “delivering” bread to the counters.

I had a good time just browsing the pretty bottles of olive oils and vinegars and marvelling at their novelty loaves shaped like crabs, turtles and teddy bears.

Bread, glorious bread!

We settled on a sourdough baguette ($2.69), just to get a taste of something made with the same wild yeast from 150 years prior. The bread was distinctly sour (too sour for our palates, anyway), but we loved the crackly crust.

I love me some bread

All the bread in the world couldn’t have prepared us for the “hill of death” though (seriously, if it wasn’t paved, it would have been a cliff of magnificent proportions), which we chose to walk up to reach Lombard Street.

Mack smiles through the burn

Lombard Street has the distinction of being the “crookedest street in the world”, with eight hairpin turns. Being the tourist destination it is, with people walking down either side, or driving through it, Mack and I could hardly believe it was a residential street – who would want to live with gawkers constantly in your front yard?

Lombard Street

Like visiting Lombard, riding a streetcar in San Francisco is another tourist must, so we thought we’d check it off early, and hopped on one to take us up the rest of Powell. It was standing room only, and rather uncomfortable with the jolting stops and sardine spacing inside the car. We did love that the streetcar had complete right of way though – it would stop right in the middle of intersections, immune to traffic laws.

Streetcar

We hopped off the streetcar at Union Square (a five minute walk from our hotel), and spent the rest of the evening exploring Westfield Shopping Centre. They had an intense food court (both in terms of options and decor) as well as a Bristol Farms (similar to Whole Foods). We didn’t have plans for dinner, so the cafeteria seemed like a good choice as any. And how could you not order from a place called Jody Maroni’s Sausage Kingdom?

I had the 100% Kobe beef wiener ($6.89) – it was unbelievably juicy, but would have been enhanced with some caramelized onions. The onion bun was a great choice. Mack’s chili dog ($4.69) was piping hot, but he would have appreciated a thicker ‘dog.

Hot dogs from Jody Maroni

Since we scrimped on dinner, we treated ourselves to dessert – cream puffs ($2.50) from Beard Papa. The vanilla custard filling was tasty (and seemed to be made with real vanilla beans), and the pastry shell was fresh, but to me, was nothing special. Mack liked his chocolate cream puff a little more than I did.

Beard Papa cream puff

We returned to our hotel, ready to rest our feet, as day 3 would see us behind bars – in Alcatraz!

Day 1 in San Francisco: The Lay of the Land

I had great intentions to blog about San Francisco earlier to the date of our actual trip (September 2010), but procrastination got in the way. Still, better late than never – writing about travels and browsing through old photos always seems like the best way to relive a trip. Perhaps it will make you long for the hills of San Francisco too!

I still don’t remember how the decision of San Francisco as our next vacation destination came about. I had been to SF once before for two days – on the return leg of my family’s journey back to North America after three weeks in the equatorial climes of southeast Asia. It’s safe to say I don’t remember much, save crossing the Golden Gate Bridge and never really acclimatizing to the thirty degree temperature change. Mack, on the other, hand, had never been to San Francisco, in spite of its hub of all things tech (and most notably, is the location of Twitter’s offices).

So in early September, we were off for a ten day trip to San Francisco, a city known for its food, liberal tendencies and a bridge.

At the airport, we hopped on the super-convenient BART train that would lead to a stop about two blocks from our accommodation. Two different people had recommended Hotel Triton to us, part of the Kimpton Hotel chain.

The Triton duckie!

More than any other hotel we’ve ever stayed in, Hotel Triton felt like home. The staff were friendly, always ready with a “welcome back” upon our return, but mostly, it was the small things – warm chocolate chip cookies available in the lobby every afternoon, free wine every evening, the resident dog Romeo (the concierge’s companion). Or, as a new member of their loyalty program, they offered us a free $10 minibar credit upon check-in.

Our SF home

The location was also hard to beat – right across from the Chinatown Gates, Hotel Triton was five minutes from Union Square and fifteen minutes from the Ferry Building. And whatever we couldn’t walk to, it was just as easy to hop on the BART or grab a bus. I’d recommend Hotel Triton in a heartbeat – and wouldn’t hesitate to stay there again.

Hotel Triton is right in the thick of things

We dropped off our luggage and went in search of lunch. We asked the front desk staff for walking directions to the Heart of the City Farmers’ Market, but they recommended we take the BART instead – apparently, it wasn’t safe to walk (it was the Tenderloin district they were weary of, but we ended up walking through it a few days later anyway, after dark no less, without incident).

Set up outdoors at UN Plaza, the Heart of the City Farmers’ Market wasn’t the largest we would encounter in San Francisco, but it was definitely meant for food shoppers. With no crafts in sight, it was a wonderful introduction to the area’s seasonal fare.

Heart of the City Farmers’ Market

Seafood and fresh eggs were available, and though there were a handful of prepared food vendors (spreads, Indian food, kettle corn, baked goods), the focus was undoubtedly on produce. What surprised me was the variety of Asian vegetables available – long beans, Chinese eggplant, bitter melon, among others – and mostly sold without signage.

Asian vegetable paradise

Such vibrant-coloured eggplant

Peaches!

We bought some apples, nectarines and peaches for the week, and some focaccia pizza for lunch.

Mack enjoys our light lunch

Satisfied, we wandered over to the neighbouring Hayes Valley, past their grand City Hall building and symphony hall. The shops were lovely to browse, but given that the first pair of shoes I picked up cost over $400, I knew we would only be window shopping.

We’re not in Canada anymore

We did stumble upon Paulette Macarons in the neighbourhood though, completely by accident. Valerie had recommended the place, a charming pastel-coloured boutique offering more than a dozen flavours of macarons.

Paulette Macarons (loved the macaron artwork)

We tried the coffee and coconut ($1.60 each). They were Mack’s first macarons – he was surprised that they were not cloyingly sweet. Each had that intense burst of flavour, all contained inside a delicate yet punchy meringue shell, indicative of perfect execution.

Mack with his first macaron!

After returning to our hotel to freshen up for dinner, we headed out on foot to our dinner destination. We walked through Chinatown, past what I dubbed “peep show row” on Broadway, and arrived at Fog City Diner, located near Pier 27.

Fog City Diner

Fog City Diner was billed, by Chowhound and others, as a “quintessential” San Francisco diner because of their food. But outfitted like a retro train car, with neon lights, cozy booths, and a long wooden bar, we could see how the decor reflected SF as well – appealing to tourists, but not over the top.

Interior

Once we got over the hump of being seated (it took about ten minutes or so; the wait staff were being run ragged), it was smooth sailing. We passed over what we probably should have ordered (their cioppino), and instead, opted for what would hit the spot.

The macaroni and cheese ($10) did just that, even if it was singlehandedly the richest we’d ever tried – it was essentially cheese fondue with noodles.

Mac ‘n’ cheese

The fish and chips ($17) were a little less successful, mostly due to the amount of grease still simmering on the freshly fried fish, but I enjoyed the plate nonetheless.

Fish and chips

Mack’s 1/2 pound burger ($20 with fixings) was an epic creation, enhanced with mushrooms, applewood smoked bacon and a fried egg, but was similarly greasy. It was interesting, however, that our server asked Mack how he wanted his burger done – something we never come across in Edmonton.

Burger

It was a good way to end our first day in San Francisco, and would be something of a pattern during our trip – filling up on food, then walking it off en route to our hotel. All hail a pedestrian-friendly city!

Win a Basket from the Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association!

As much as I love Edmonton, my mind seems to naturally drift to warmer climes when the mercury drops. How easy is it to get lost in a daydream just looking at the photos below?

The sky that never ends…

Can I have the bottle please?

And as luck would have it, I have a gift basket from the Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association (TOTA) in British Columbia to give away – just in time for Christmas! The basket is worth over $750, and includes:

One nights’ accommodation for two from Accent Inns
A Red and White Vinotherapy spa lotion and 20 “Spa Dollars” from Beyond Wrapture Spa
One nights’ accommodation for two from Best Western Kelowna
Two lift tickets for Big White
An Okanagan Wine Cheese Plate made from recycled VQA Wine bottles
One bottle of Okanagan-Similkameen Wine from the Okanagan Wine Festivals Society:
A complementary upgrade to one bedroom executive suite for two people from Sandman Group Kelowna
A$25 gift certificate from Chop Restaurant
One body butter cream sample from Smudge
A $10 coupon towards a wine purchase at their Wine Shop and a tasting and tour gift certificate for Summerhill Pyramid Winery
A Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association 2010 Vacation Guide
One nights’ accommodation in a complementary suite and a $50 credit at the Wine Bar from the Watermark Beach Resort
A copy of the Fall/Winter 2010 Wineries Refined Magazine

Though I’ve been through the Okanagan region before, it was many, many years ago, and I was too young to appreciate the full bounty of our neighbour to the west (well that, and being a child, the wineries were off limits). I do, however, remember seeing more fruit on trees than I ever had before. Cherry picking our way through one orchard, my youngest sister gorged herself to the point of inevitable illness.

Since then, I’ve only explored the area vicariously through a few of my fellow local bloggers – Jennifer Cockrall-King, who organizes the annual Okanagan Food & Wine Writers Workshop, FoodieSuz, and Liane Faulder – a read through their experiences is to believe that paradise is only a half day away. The winner of this basket will no doubt have an amazing time getting acquainted with the area firsthand!

Food, glorious food

To enter the contest, simply leave a comment below with your favourite memory of the Okanagan. Or, if you’ve never visited the area before, what do you most look forward to enjoying in the Okanagan? The contest closes at 5 p.m. on December 3, 2010. I will contact the winner by e-mail.

To learn more about the Thompson Okanagan region, check out their website, Facebook page, or follow them on Twitter. Good luck!

Edit on December 6, 2010: Congratulations to George Wenzel for winning the basket. Enjoy your trip, George!

Yellowknife Wanderings

While I can’t say I was thrilled when Mack and I decided that we would be spending a part of the holiday north of Edmonton, in the end, I was glad we went. Not only we were able to spend some quality time with his family, but I am also now able to appreciate Edmonton’s relatively milder temperatures (really, anything above –30 feels like a blessing) and generous amount of daylight.

We were able to explore the city somewhat – on dogsled, in a vehicle, and on foot. Because Martin and Patti live in the downtown core, we were able to walk to the nearby shopping centres and restaurants.

The street where Martin and Patti live

Ravens (even larger than the birds we encountered in Banff)

Thom helped orient us to the area

Centre Square Mall, one of the two shopping centres

In YK Centre, the other shopping centre, we found The Chocolatier, a specialty shop that makes all their own chocolate in-house. Though truffles are their specialty, I picked up a package of their Carnutzel (caramel covered pretzel then dipped in chocolate), while Mack decided on their chocolate-covered Rice Krispie squares. Mack’s squares ended up being the winner – the pretzel base needed to be thicker to stand up to all of the caramel used.

Inside The Chocolatier

We also encountered a store in YK Centre that was dedicated entirely to Ragged Ass Road, a cheekily named street. Martin and Patti eventually took us to the small unmarked residential roadway, but it was a bit anti-climactic (and hence, no photos).

To Ragged Ass Road

We also window shopped at the Gallery of the Midnight Sun, a lovely local boutique filled with handmade treasures. I had to take a photo of the furs for Amanda.

Furs and pelts

Of course, something I was also interested in was the grocery shops. While I knew most produce and items would be available in Yellowknife, the question was – how much would they cost? Luckily, I came across this post at YK Online, which saved me from taking pictures of basic goods myself. While groceries are not surprisingly more expensive, some things still left me with sticker shock, like a bag of grapefruit that was nearly $8.

Co-op

My favourite store in Yellowknife, and one that I could see myself shopping in if I ever lived there, was Le Stock Pot (how could you not love the name?). The owner of the kitchen supply store and deli also owns two restaurants in the city – Le Frolic and L’Heritage. Even though they were in the process of moving their kitchen supplies to a separate location, I still fell in love with their pantry, stocked with pretty bottles of balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and the like. And, never one to resist good bread, I picked up a baguette which I later consumed with butter. It was perfection.

Inside Le Stock Pot

The one restaurant I had some intention to visit was Bullocks, which some say serve the best fish in Canada. Much like other establishments in Yellowknife during the holidays, however, it was closed, and we ended up at the Vietnamese Noodle House instead. Who knew I would end up having pho in Yellowknife? It was all right, and did the job of warming me through, though the rare beef was a little tough.

Combination Beef Noodle Soup

As we were also in Yellowknife for the New Year, Patti took us to the fireworks show at Frame Lake. It was amusing to me that the show took place at 9:30 instead of midnight, but given how cold it was then, I was thankful for the early kick-off to 2010. Unlike in Edmonton, where the people setting off the fireworks are shielded by office towers, we were able to see the trio of men on the lake lighting off the rockets. The show almost felt intimate with a crowd of around 200, and the fireworks themselves seemed larger, without any buildings in the way.

Fireworks

More fireworks

It ended with a bang!

On our last full day in Yellowknife, we checked some other things off of our tourist to-do list. First, it was up to Pilot Hill for some shots of the magnificent sunset, and the view from the top. Boy was it cold, but it was worth it.

Gorgeous sunset

Great Slave Lake

Looking toward the town

With Patti

Lastly, Martin took us to the ice road across Great Slave Lake which provide drivers with a shortcut to a small community across the Lake. We didn’t drive across, but it was pretty cool to see the ploughed snow roadway.

On the ice road

While we didn’t get to see any Northern Lights, we still got to experience many of the sights that make Yellowknife unique. Thanks again to Martin and Patti for their hospitality, and for making our stay special!

No Caribou, No Problem: The Black Knight Pub

Mack and I ventured out into the Yellowknife cold (-42 with windchill) in the hopes of having lunch at Yummy Cafe. From the post on the lovely Life in the Knife blog, Yummy looked like my kind of place – family-run, cozy, offering fresh baked goods. Unfortunately, like many restaurants and businesses in Yellowknife, Yummy was closed not only during our visit, but for an entire month. We returned home, disappointed, and vowed to do some more research.

After consulting with Mack’s parents, we decided to visit The Black Knight Pub (and called to make sure it would actually be open on New Year’s Eve). The website revealed the promise of caribou burgers, and Mack was eager to have me try some “northern” type food.

It was actually pretty busy inside, though we had our choice of a handful of vacant tables. The Black Knight had the standard pub decor – a haphazard collection of flags, license plates, badges and the like dressing the walls.

Mack at The Black Knight

It took a few minutes for the waitress to acknowledge our existence, but given the number of patrons inside, we didn’t mind the wait. After perusing the menu of pub favourites, we asked about the seasonal caribou burger – unfortunately, the waitress told us that because of low caribou populations, a supply of meat was difficult to obtain, and a menu change was imminent. We accepted the bison burger ($15.50) alternative.

Mack’s only real complaint about The Black Knight was the beer – his pint of draft Kokanee was inexcusably thin – he compared it to beer-flavoured water. Had he known, he would have ordered a bottle instead.

Our orders arrived in good time, looking as good as they would ultimately taste. The edges of the patty were a tad charred, but it didn’t ruin an otherwise solid burger.

Bison Burger

As we were leaving, we heard the sound checks of a DJ upstairs, where Top Knight would be hosting a New Year’s Eve party later on – I’m sure it was quite the event. If you’re in town, The Black Knight Pub is a good, casual lunch option.

The Black Knight Pub
4910 49 Street, Yellowknife
(867) 920-4041

Not a Diamond in the Rough: Fuego

To celebrate Mack’s birthday, Martin and Patti took the lot of us out for dinner at Fuego. Martin had been there for lunch one day, and enjoyed his visit.

Fuego is part of a larger company that includes a lounge, champagne bar, and catering service, under the umbrella of Dining on 50th. I was a little weary of their “international cuisine” tagline, but was willing to see what this Yellowknife restaurant had to offer.

Walking downstairs into the space, I was immediately struck by how busy it was. Though we knew many restaurants in the city are closed for the holiday season, I somehow still didn’t expect a nearly full house. Dimly lit, the decor was simple – red walls, sleek leather chairs, and pictures of a lake sunset encased in false windows.

Mack and me

The dining room was bracketed by a small bar and a stage – Fuego hosts local musicians on a nightly basis. The talented Shea Alain was our entertainer that night, performing acoustic, low-tempo covers of everything from “My Girl” to Fort Minor’s “Where’d You Go”.

Fuego has quite a large menu, and though there was some Latin American influence, it seemed to be put together with a purpose to please – the grilled ostrich seemed out of place. More focus might do it some good. Regardless, everyone was able to find one dish that appealed to them. Most of us also ordered appetizers.

The baked caramelized onion soup ($9) was rich, and packed an unexpected heat. Underneath the melted cheese and bread was a dense web of onions that I struggled to finish. Mack’s jumbo bacon scallop skewer ($15) was beautifully garnished with greens and a star, but was a touch overcooked. He gobbled it up, and said it was still pretty good.

Caramelized Onion Soup

Jumbo Bacon Scallops

My herb chipotle crusted whitefish filet ($26) was a bit disappointing – though the fish was nicely cooked, where I was expecting a hard shell, I was met with more of a pesto-like robe on the fish. Moreover, the beurre blanc was unappetizingly sour, to the point where I could have done without the sauce all together. I loved the balsamic glaze on the sweet potato fries though – the sauce made it more like a treat than a side.

Herb Chipotle Crusted Whitefish

Mack’s grilled arctic char ($34) was more of a success – the caper aioli was the perfect accompaniment. Mack also loved the crispy potato chips on his plate.

Grilled Arctic Char

Everyone else around the table seemed to enjoy their dishes (dishes were definitely over-sauced though), and despite the fact that the entire restaurant was serviced by just a single waitress, the kitchen was speedy and we weren’t left waiting long for our food. It is also worth noting that the restaurant was quite accommodating towards a gluten allergy in our party.

Bison Ribeye with Chimichurri Sauce

Beef Striploin with Brandy Madagascar Sauce

Grilled Seafood Stuffed Salmon Filet with Pesto Sour Cream

It was a nice night overall at Fuego, with wonderful ambiance provided by the live entertainment, and good company. Decent food, but I can’t say I would recommend it as a destination.

Fuego
4915 50th Street, Yellowknife
(867) 873-3750
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:30pm; Dinner: Monday-Saturday 5-10pm

Dog Sledding in Yellowknife!

Part of the Christmas present from Mack’s parents was a dog sledding tour with local company Beck’s Kennels. It was a very thoughtful gift, and one they knew we would enjoy because it would provide us with a uniquely “northern” experience.

Out of the possible tours, Martin and Patti chose the Northern Outdoor option. Two hours in length, we would all have the opportunity to drive the sled, either to the cabin where we would warm up around a wood-burning stove, or back to the home base. Beck’s also offers different types of tours, including aurora viewing, ice fishing and snow shoeing. In addition, proprietor Grant Beck is an avid dog racer – it was neat that the kennel was not only in the business of offering dog sledding recreationally, but participated in the competitive sport as well.

Some of the many kennels

Martin dropped the four of us off at Beck’s yesterday afternoon for our adventure. We were directed to dress warmly, particularly because of the length of our tour, and were surprised to find a collection of parkas, snow pants, boots, hats and mitts for us to use. We geared up and got ready to go.

Kim and Shane

Mack and me

Mack and Shane elected to direct the two sleds on the way to the cabin, and were given a quick lesson from our guide on what to do. We were told to stand with our knees slightly bent, and at the turns, to lean into the turn in order to avoid tipping the sled.

Practicing my stance

Kim and I settled comfortably into our passenger seats, and off we went! Our tour guide followed close by on a skidoo, checking to make sure both Shane and Kim’s sled and ours were on track. Though the dogs were playful and would occasionally fall out of the harness-and-rope-imposed lines, they were focused on getting to our destination, and knew the trails well. I felt safe the entire time – in case Mack fell of the sled, or the dogs made a wrong turn – we knew the guide would find us to help if we had needed it.

The view

Mack directing the sled (he loved his pink gloves)

The ride to the cabin took just over half an hour. It was a peaceful and serene journey, with the trails through the trees being my particular favourite, branches and boughs beautifully draped in snow.

Trail

At the cabin, while the dogs rested, we warmed up around the wood burning stove and had hot chocolate and snacks.

Kim warms up

Shane and Mack

We asked our guide about the dogs, because I had expected them to be long-haired Siberian Huskies. She said that because Siberian Huskies had been bred more and more for their appearance instead of racing traits, that Alaskan Huskies were actually a better breed for running. We also asked if she knew the names of the dogs, and she said it was difficult, with 135 dogs at the kennel!

Kim and I directed the sleds on the way back, and boy was it ever cold. We rode against the bitter wind chill pretty much the entire time, along a slightly different route than before. Though I was afraid I would fall off of the sled, between the grip of the sled runners and the fairly flat landscape, it was an easy ride. We had to help the dogs a little by pushing the sled up the hill, but other than that, the dogs took care of us.

On the way back

Thanks again to Martin and Patti for the experience!

You can read Mack’s post here and see some of the photos here.

Rocky Mountain R ‘n’ R

It’s been years since I’ve been to Banff, and though Mack was there last summer, as it was for business and not pleasure, we seized my work conference in Calgary as an opportunity to escape.

Banff

As late October is considered the calm between the storms, we had no trouble finding accommodation at reasonable rates, but as we soon found out, there were downsides to visiting during low season as well.

Much has probably changed in Banff since I last visited (my only really clear memory is of the Hudson’s Bay Company), but I somehow expected it to be more commercial than it actually was. Perhaps the lack of tourists contributed to this, but walking the few main streets they had, I enjoyed the relative tranquility of being amidst the mountains.

On a bridge

Mack

Banff at nightfall

We embraced the tourist-y attractions, including visiting the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. One day, we’ll just bite the overpriced bullet and book a room there.

Approaching the hotel

Looking off one of the balconies

Me and Mack

We also probably should have done more walking, but being the unprepared travellers that we are (and still in denial that winter is rapidly approaching), we had neither proper footwear or jackets to set off on a hike. Still, we did enjoy what time we did spend outside.

Mountains

Mack at the Bow Falls

I love little streams

As I alluded to above, there are downsides to visiting during low season – such as the closure of major attractions for repairs.

The closest I would get to the Upper Hot Springs

We headed to the Banff Gondola with the hopes of appeasing some of our disappointment. After the sticker shock of nearly $60 for our round trip up Sulphur Mountain, I was able to enjoy the eight minute ride.

Maybe I was wrong about the commercialization part…

I’m not afraid!

Up they go!

We had to marvel at the efficiency of the one employee at the bottom of the gondola attraction – he alone was responsible for both loading and unloading the cars. He definitely earned his salary.

At the top

The view of the town below was spectacular

More than anything, it was a treat to be able to get away from the city for a few days to relax. Thanks Mack for a lovely weekend!

For the Love of Nostalgia: Diner Deluxe

On a slushy Saturday morning in Calgary, Mack and I made our way to Diner Deluxe, which has the distinction of being my favourite brunch purveyor in the city. I love the nostalgic feel of the place, the 70s furniture, the pastel walls, and how the kitchen spills into the dining area. It also helps that Diner Deluxe inaugurated me into Calgary’s brunch culture (something Edmonton is sorely missing), and subsequently led me to Nellie’s, Avenue Diner, Dairy Lane and Galaxie Diner, among others.

I find the wait, while the same in duration as some of the other places (anywhere from twenty to forty-five minutes), is tempered with chairs to sit on and self-serve coffee to ease the time. And of course, all of what we look for is there: quick kitchen-to-table service? Check. Coffee refills without request? Check. Heaping portions? Check.

On the back of the menu (too cute)

The rosemary potatoes in my egg and sausage breakfast were outstanding, crispy and flecked with herbs. The portion of sausage included was also quite generous. Mack’s stuffed French toast was a little unevenly prepared, with gobs of cheese in certain sections, but overall, he liked the indulgent dish.

Two Eggs with Sausage, Multigrain Toast and Hashbrowns

Sourdough French Toast Stuffed with Canadian Bacon and Smoked Cheddar

Though Mack said he preferred Galaxie (our counter/courtside seat to the flattop stage didn’t hurt), he liked Diner Deluxe as well. In the end, perhaps it’s a good thing we don’t have as many brunch eateries in Edmonton – I wouldn’t have the travel excuse to fall back on as a reason to visit them all!

Diner Deluxe
804 Edmonton Trail NE, Calgary
(403) 276-5499

Retro Cool ‘Dogs: Le Chien Chaud

I had heard great things about Calgary’s “other” hot dog palace, Le Chien Chaud. Having visited the infamous Tubby Dog last year, we thought a comparison stop was necessary to complete our Cowtown hot dog tour.

With Wednesday supper being our own responsibility (the conference would be covering all other meals over the next day and a half), I thought that would be a good time to pop over to Le Chien Chaud. Arriving at 7:30, Mack and I just made it – the owners were tidying up when we entered, readying for their 8pm closing time.

It is evident that the restaurant is a labour of love for owners Bob and Jane Steckle, who actually run the shop themselves. As opposed to Tubby Dog, which is a dive (albeit an endearing one), Le Chien Chaud has a boutique feel, with artfully displayed artefacts, posters, and memorabilia relating to the phenomenon of hot dogs. The walls are bright red, and when contrasted with the black and white checkered floor, the retro feel of the establishment is unmistakable.

Interior

While some of the topping combinations went beyond the usual ketchup, mustard and onion family, Tubby Dog definitely offers more creativity and shock value with their wasabi and cereal-encrusted creations. For that reason, the menu at Le Chien Chaud reminded me very much of The Dawg Father, Edmonton’s premiere hot dog purveyor. Mack ended up choosing the breakfast dog ($5.75), dressed with cream cheese and chive scrambled eggs, cheddar and bacon bits. The Coney Island dog ($5.75) sounded best to me, drenched in a meat sauce. We both opted for the default pork/beef combination, though all beef, vegetarian, buffalo and bratwurst was also available.

We sat down, and before we knew it, our freshly prepared meal was set in front of us. Mack and I were both immediately disappointed that the cheese was not melted – a trip through the broiler would have made a world of difference, especially as a means of binding the toppings together. Although Mack enjoyed his hot dog (commenting that it was moist and flavourful), he would have preferred warmed bacon crisps, instead of the bacon bits that almost tasted artificial.

Breakfast Dog

I am almost always a messier eater than Mack, and in this case, the ladle of meat sauce on my Coney Island dog had me at a disadvantage from the start. However, it was worth the mess, as it added a rich and textured punch to an otherwise typical dog.

Coney Island Dog

Our high expectations had raised the bar for Le Chien Chaud, and while we enjoyed our experience, wouldn’t advise going out of your way to try it.

Le Chien Chaud
3, 2015 4 Street SW, Calgary
(403) 229-3641
Monday-Saturday 11am-8pm, Sunday 12-5pm

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this: