Category: restaurants

“The Coffee Shop”: Wild Tangerine

Annie introduced me to Wild Tangerine (10383 112 Street) two years ago, but I haven’t been back since. I thought the portions were small for the price, but the decor and the atmosphere were the closest I have ever found to duplicating the fictional Sex and the City “coffee shop” in Edmonton. When a window opened up on Friday to meet up with Bettina for dinner, I jumped at the opportunity to take her there.

Wild Tangerine is part of a very small group of restaurants that are considered darlings of the Edmonton food scene (Culina and Soul Soup are two others). Part of that reason is chef Judy Wu’s presence on the national stage (for example, just recently winning bronze at the Mystery Wine Pairing event at the Canadian Culinary Championships in Toronto). The other is because of its whimsical interpretation of fusion fare using locally-sourced products.

I’ve always been sceptical of the movement towards Asian-Western “fusion”, especially because with that word anywhere near the menu, restaurants seem to believe it grants them a license to automatically increase the prices. At any rate, I was ready to give Wild Tangerine a fair shot that night.

At 5:30pm, we were just one of three parties at the restaurant, but by 7pm, nearly every table had been taken. My initial impression of the decor still held true – I loved the muted, earth-toned walls, orb-like pendant lighting and the IKEA-esque plastic white chairs. In all, with its dark floor and open space, it reminded me of a funkier version of Culina.

I also appreciated the unexpected little touches, like the stamp on the brightly-colored napkin, the mini-clipbord menus, and the smooth pebble stones at the base of the bathroom sink. I thought the plastic water cups were a little inelegant and out of place given the setting, but that was a minor nitpick.

Their selections of mains is small, almost always a good sign of a restaurant trying to focus its energies on doing a few things very well. I had heard rave reviews on their Shrimp Lollipops ($8 for 3), so we ordered that to start. For entrees, Bettina opted for the Peppercorn Crusted Yellow Fin Tuna with Organic Hemp-Oil Tomato Coulis ($20), while I decided to try the Cha-Siu Organic Pembina Pork Tenderloin with Spicy Tangerine Glaze ($22).

The Shrimp Lollipops were beautifully presented, carefully placed in a white ceramic cup. Neither of us cared for the wasabi yogurt they were served with, but I loved the crispy coating on the shrimp. They were undoubtedly messy to eat, with bits of fried noodle ending up as unfortunate casualties with every bite, but each savoury crunch transported me to an upscale midway where beautiful food tastes as it should.

Our mains were timed right, both delivered shortly after our starter plates had been cleared. Again, the artful arrangement of the food should be noted, with ribbons of carrots and slivers of chives adorning the tops of both our dishes. The bok choy was perfectly prepared, crispy, with the natural juices of the vegetable palpable. Unfortunately, both her tuna and my pork had been overcooked (the tuna to the point where it stopped tasting like fish and had a firm, meat-like consistency). Luckily, the sublime, sweet-spicy tangerine glaze saved my dish somewhat, ensuring that I used all of the conveniently pre-sliced pork as a vehicle to soak up every last ounce of the sauce.

Service was attentive throughout, and again, with my adoration of the ambiance, I know I will be back. Likely next time, it will be for tapas and desserts instead.

Wild Tangerine

Interior

Place setting

Menu

Shrimp Lollipops

Peppercorn Crusted Yellow Fin Tuna

Cha-Siu Organic Pembina Pork Tenderloin

Italian in Banff: Timbers Food Company

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

I’m in Banff this weekend for the nextMEDIA conference, and despite not having my restaurant buddy here with me (that would be Sharon, of course) I’ve checked out a couple of local establishments. Last night I did two things that I pretty much never do: I ate somewhere chosen at random, and I ate alone.

While wandering around downtown Banff, I came across Timbers Food Company, located just off Banff Avenue at 204 Wolf Street. From the outside you might think that Timbers sells logs or camping equipment, but it’s actually an Italian restaurant inside a converted house. The log deck outside seats 60 patrons during the summer months, while the inside has room for 50.

I walked in to find the restaurant about half full, a good sign in my book. I opted to sit at the bar near the front of the restaurant, so that I could watch both the restaurant inside and the busy street outside. The waiter brought water and fresh bread as I got settled in.

After a quick look at the menu, I decided on the Beef Tortellini with Cream of Tomato sauce ($14.95). My first impression after it arrived was that the portion size was quite small, but I was deceived. The tasty dish was really quite filling! I wouldn’t go so far as to call it the best tortellini I’ve ever had, but it definitely hit the spot.

I’m not sure if my waiter was just really friendly or if he guessed that I was some sort of food reviewer (maybe because I was taking photos), but he was very attentive, friendly, and seemed genuinely concerned about whether or not I enjoyed the food. It made my “eating alone” experience much more enjoyable than it would otherwise have been.

If you’re in Banff and and in need of a hearty meal, give Timbers a try.

Timbers

Outside

Inside Timbers

Inside

Beef Tortellini with Cream of Tomato Sauce

Beef Tortellini

Just One of Many: Pho Tau Bay Restaurant

Convinced by coworkers that Pho Tau Bay Restaurant (10660 98 Street) would soon become my new favorite pho haunt, I met Dickson, a fellow pho enthusiast, for lunch there this afternoon.

Like most restaurants in Chinatown, both the storefront and interior are nothing to write home about. The decor is dated, furniture worn and floor in need of a makeover. But for the supposed authenticity and cheap prices, much can be overlooked. Well, it seems their prices went up recently – a medium bowl is now $6.20 (up from $5.60), while an extra large bowl is priced at $7. Of course, for the serving size, it is still very reasonable (and cheaper than Pagolac and Golden Bird), but it seems they will have to do more to differentiate themselves from the crowd at this point.

My coworkers weren’t kidding when they said that there was nothing but pho on the menu – twenty varieties, with combinations of beef flank, tendon, brisket and tripe all available. I was disappointed with a lack of rare or medium rare beef, so ended up ordering a medium bowl of pho with beef balls, while Dickson opted for the extra large with steak, well done brisket, flank, tendon and tripe. This was the only non-dim sum meal I’ve experienced where ordering on paper (checking off the quantity desired next to the dish name) was called for.

Our dishes took no more than five minutes to prepare (reminding me very much of Pho Hoa), which was either really efficient or, as we were joking, cause for suspicion. Dickson thought my serving was rather small when compared with others like Hoang Long and Pagolac, but for a lunch meal, I was satisfied with the size. The dish itself though was a bit disappointing – the broth was a tad salty, and overall, we both longed for bowls from any of the other eateries mentioned above.

While we may have been let down by Pho Tau Bay in part because of extremely high expectations, with so many other great pho spots in the area, I’m not sure we’ll be back to give it a second chance.

Pho Tau Bay

Interior

All-pho menu

Beef Ball Pho

Special Pho

Fish Heaven: Billingsgate Lighthouse Cafe

Mack’s Grandma always recommends two places when we ask for suggestions of where to buy seafood: Boyd’s (103, 979 Fir Street, Sherwood Park) and Billingsgate Seafood Market and Lighthouse Café (7331 104 Street). We decided to let the experts prepare the fish and headed to the latter on Wednesday.

On a gloomy, cloud-ridden evening that Mack thought fittingly cast an east coast feel, we entered the market. It may have been the foreboding weather, but we seem to have missed the dinner rush, as the market was devoid of shoppers. We did a quick round through the cases and freezers, but our empty stomachs soon drove us to the end of the hallway and into the Lighthouse Café.

Our reservation wasn’t necessary, and we were seated right away in the circular lighthouse-shaped dining area. It was very dimly lit, relying heavily on the natural light from the gradually darkening sky. From the outside, I thought the interior would be quite kitschy, but instead, the décor was charming and tasteful. A small lighthouse-shaped candle holder was on the table, and pictures and figures of various sea creatures were plentiful yet not dominating in any way.

I appreciated the short introduction of the café on the inside of the menu, detailing the history of market having to evolve to meet customer requests for prepared seafood. As expected, the menu contained a few dishes entirely devoid of seafood (pasta, risotto, chicken, steak), and a variety of fish, scallop, shrimp and lobster entrees that drew from the market’s fresh inventory.

Both of us knew our order even before the menu was opened – the Lighthouse Fish and Chips, made with pacific halibut filets prepared with a light batter, served with coleslaw, tartar sauce and fries (one piece for $10.95). Mack also wanted to give their Lighthouse Calamari a go ($8.95).

Service was consistent through our meal, and our waitress was always just around the corner ready to fill up our water glasses. The calamari arrived after a short wait, topped with red onions and served with a chipotle aioli and a marinara sauce. I preferred these buttermilk-coated rings to the heavier batter found at the likes of Earls and Mr. Mike’s, but Mack disagreed.

We were still snacking on the calamari when our mains arrived. The bloated halibut, unfortunately resembling a corndog, looked like it had just been picked up from a midway vendor. I was hoping the fish hidden inside the crispy, glistening crust would taste fresher than the frying oil used, and though it was fork-flaky, it was also disappointingly dry.

We received two Ovation mint chocolates with our bill, which was a nice touch, but still didn’t make up for our lacklustre entree. Mack acknowledged that we probably ordered a dish not demonstrative of their seafood catalogue, so we may be back in the future for fish not fried.

Billingsgate Seafood Market

Lighthouse Cafe

Seafood Market

Dining area

Lighthouse Calamari

Lighthouse Fish and Chips

Food Notes

  • Vintage (10124 124 Street), the new lounge that replaced Mangiamos, is now open. I peered in the windows on Sunday, (very Eater of me, I know), and it looks very much like Suede Lounge – movable ottomans and low tables – but about half the size. Pick up the NextFest program in this week’s See Magazine for a coupon that entitles you to a free tapa at Vintage.
  • I love this concept of  deVine’s “Taste the Season: A Traveling Tasting” event. Partnering with local eateries, guests will sample plates from Ric’s Grill, Characters, and TZiN, all paired with exquisite wine selections. $90 seems a bit pricey to me, but it’s a great way to walk your way through one of Edmonton’s great food districts.
  • Kerstin’s Chocolates recently started their own blog! The Cocoa Room will be offering a special $5 tasting plate on Saturday, June 7, with a sample of very special chocolate made from a rare variety of cacao, and as well as a new Chocophilia variety. They will also be offering free hot chocolate all day. Head to their shop at 10139 112 Street to check it out.
  • See Magazine released their annual “Best of” survey results this week. It’s a mixed bag of results to me (glad to see that Route 99 was recognized for the 2nd Best Poutine, and the Italian Centre for Best Deli, but the fact that Taco del Mar placed at all for Best Mexican, and  the Wok Box earned number one as the Best Take-out makes it hard to take too seriously). I did like Scott Lingley’s personal list, however, and many of the restaurants he included are on my hit list to try (Tau Bay, Handy Bakery, Viphalay).
  • Judy Schultz contributed to the Bistro section again this past week with a story on asparagus producers Edgar Farms. I’m not sure whose decision it was to have Liane Faulder start in the summer and not the fall, but it really does take away from her new take on things with Judy’s columns appearing on almost a weekly basis.
  • Mack sent this to me (who else would?) about a “BarCamp” style cupcake tasting called CupcakeCamp. Too cool.
  • Alex Witchel wrote a great nostalgic piece on those iced cakes of our childhood – reading it made me want to go to a bakery straightaway to relive the delicious magic.
  • Speaking of cake, has anyone tried the Tuxedo Truffle Mousse cake from Save-On Foods? I bought a small one for a dinner I attended recently, and though I find that cake and icing alone are enough to satisfy me, I loved the variety in this case.
  • I purchased a Fruit Flan from Sobeys Urban Fresh, hoping that it would be as good, if not better, than one I had from Sunterra. Unfortunately, it looked better than it tasted, though it may have been my fault for leaving it too long in the trunk of a car.

 

Fruit Flan from Sobeys Urban Fresh

We All Scream for Ice Cream: Marble Slab Creamery

As someone who enjoys, but doesn’t love ice cream, the success of Marble Slab Creamery in a city with a long winter surprised me. And while a location on the pedestrian-friendly Whyte Avenue made sense to me, the South Edmonton Common outlet boggled my mind – wouldn’t it make more sense to drive to the nearby Superstore to buy two pints of ice cream for the same price?

At any rate, I had a 2-for-1 coupon to blow, and Mack had a craving for chocolate chip cookie dough ice cream, so we found ourselves at the South Common branch (1919 98 Street) at dusk on Saturday night. For whatever reason, their business was through the roof that evening – the line just kept getting longer. We had no idea why though – it was not particularly hot and most of the stores in the area had already closed hours before.

We both decided on a scoop of vanilla ice cream with a mixin of chocolate chip cookie dough ($4.95 plux tax). I can’t say I am particularly adventurous – in the few times I have been to Marble Slab, I don’t think I have ventured outside of this classic combination.

We had a few bites of our ice cream before taking it outside – the ceiling fan could not keep the small, overcrowded shop cool enough for our liking. But with just one small bench outside (and no trash can!), we resorted to standing just beyond the growing line, to watch with some amusement the cars that drove by, saw the line, and left.

Sadly, we both found something missing from the ice cream that night – the cookie dough tasted a little nuttier and less sweet than I remember from past trials, while Mack remarked that the waffle cone was probably the best part of his treat – not a compliment to a franchise that emphasizes its daily-made ice cream.

While I can’t say I won’t ever be back to Marble Slab, without a coupon, it’s definitely less likely.

Cone options

Mixin options

The crazy line-up!

Mack likes ice cream

Like Wok Box, Only Better: Thai Express

After picking up some flowers to bring to Felicia’s commencement at the Jubilee, I stepped down to the food court at the City Centre Mall looking for a quick bite to eat before the ceremony. I headed straight to Thai Express, tucked beside Good Buddy just underneath the stairs. I noticed it a few months ago, and thought it looked exactly like a place I visited while in Vancouver last year. Turns out, Thai Express has locations all over Canada – I had no idea.

Between the curries, the soups, and the stir-fried rice and noodles, I decided to opt for my standard order of Pad Thai ($5.59 for the vegetable option). Being the only one in line had its advantages – my dish was freshly prepared in under three minutes, and absolutely smoking hot when I opened the box at the table. The staff were super-friendly, and as a peanut lover, I appreciated the container of crushed peanuts available to customers to self-garnish their orders.

Though I adore the Chinese take-out box packaging, I think it is meant more for things like dry ribs or fried rice – dishes where it isn’t necessary to thoroughly mix the dish first; it was a bit challenging to ensure that all of my noodles were evenly coated with sauce which had accumulated at the bottom of the box. Unlike Wok Box though, where I find the vegetables included to be quite sparse, this serving was chock full of bean sprouts, green and red peppers, onions, broccoli, carrots, and baby corn.

So for the price, the portion size, and the efficiency at which my order was processed, I’d visit Thai Express over Wok Box again any day, even sans coupon.

Freshly made-to-order

Boxed and ready to eat!

Pad Thai topped with peanuts

The Scent of Summer: Fat Franks

Ubiquitous in the warm months on street corners all over Edmonton’s downtown core, Fat Franks is a bonafide Edmonton establishment. In addition to 8 trailers stationed at Canadian Tire stores, 11 outdoor stands covering territory from High Street to the Law Courts, a Whyte Avenue location open 9 months of the year, there are two year-round operations: one at the River Cree Casino and another in Commerce Place.

I didn’t know about the Commerce Place location until recently, when a piece in Avenue Magazine caught my attention in December. It turns out it opened in October 2006, and has been satisfying customers ever since.

Some hot dog trivia (from a board at the back of Fat Franks):

  • “Hot Dogs” were first introduced in 1904 at the St. Louis World Fair. The name “Hot Dog” comes from the early NY City vendors who used to yell out “They’re hot, get ’em while they’re red hot”
  • Mustard is the most common condiment used on hot dogs
  • Fat Franks has served over 1 million hot dogs since 1995. That’s 3 million feet if put in a straight line; 134, 000 Kilos of meat, 113,000 kilos of bread & 32, 500 kilos of mustard!

Walking into the food court this afternoon, I almost missed Fat Franks – they really should have flashier signage, or at the very least, use all of the banner room provided above their space.

I took some time to peruse their menu. All of their hot dogs are made with 80% beef and 20% chicken (and no by-products). I had the choice between a Junior Dog ($2.60) to an Avenue Dog ($4.85) with bacon and cheese. I went somewhere in between with my order of a Jumbo Dog ($3.60). A variety of smokies were also on the menu, including honey ham, jalapeno & cheddar, and Italian, all priced under $5. Sides of fries were also available ($2-3), though after seeing their morning offer of a breakfast sandwich with grilled egg, bacon or sausage links and cheese, I almost wished it was still early.

The friendly attendant had my hot dog ready in seconds. I’m not too keen on toppings (I think it takes away from a really juicy hot dog), so with a little drizzle of ketchup, I was done. Before I left, I made sure to get a “Customer Appreciation Card” stamped – buy 10, get 1 free. I’m not sure I’ll be back often enough to warrant carrying a card in my wallet, but I should have asked whether or not it was valid at the various outdoor locations as well.

I sat down at one of the tables next to the window and inhaled the fragrant scent of a grilled hot dog – it is a smell that easily transports me to campfires and backyard barbeques. Between the toasted, crispy bun, the slightly charred dog, and the sweet tang from the ketchup, I was thoroughly satisfied.

While I’d probably have to have two dogs to make it a proper meal, one indoors was enough. Next time – I’m hitting up the carts.

Fat Franks in Commerce Place

Jumbo Dog

Culinary Q & A with Kimmi

Occupation:  Student/Grease Monkey’s Assistant

What did you eat today? 

All Bran bar for breakfast, Homemade Leftover Fajitas for lunch, fish and chips for supper, and wings at Hudsons

What do you never eat?

Cabbage, Eggplant, Most Milk Products (I’m Lactose Intolerant) and Citrus as I am allergic

What is your personal specialty?

I would say my personal specialty would have to be Tacos or Fajitas. As well I make a mean tuna casserole! Dessert wise I would have to say Sex-In-A-Pan!

What is your favorite kitchen item?

This is a hard one, I would have to say my cutting board and a good sharp knife.  Many creations are made there, just randomly adding new and different ingredients to things.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal. 

My last meal would have to be Shake’n’bake chicken, really good Jasmine or Basmati Rice, and Asparagus tips, with Blueberry pie for dessert

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Um, I don’t think that I have a most frequently, I don’t eat out very often, however my favourite by far would have to be Arbys.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton? 

The Dish & The Runaway Spoon.  It is a little restaurant off of 124st downtown, and their creations there are just so appetizing and interesting.  Flavour combination is very original there!

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat? 

I think that I would go to my parents house for sure! I love my dad’s cooking, I could be more extravagant however, I absolutely everything that my dad makes, and my mom’s baking is TO DIE FOR! She always makes the best desserts! I think I would ask my Dad to make his Shepherds Pie, and have my mom’s icebox cookies or Banana Bread!

Rainy Day Comfort: Hoang Long Restaurant

Though I miss the accessibility of greenspace, my new office building provides many walkable lunch options in Chinatown. And on a day when a power outage pointed to the definite detriment of not having a window in my room, it seemed the perfect opportunity to patronize my restaurant neighbours.

The wait at Thanh Thahn Oriental Noodle House was five parties deep at 12:30pm, so I wandered over instead to my second choice – Hoang Long (10715 98 Street).

This was my first visit to the eight month old location (Hoang Long has three locations in Edmonton). The peripheral tables were occupied, but the dining area was surprisingly quiet and mellow, in stark contrast to the bustle and crash of Thanh Thanh. At that point, I knew I made the right choice – I was craving a quiet space to settle in with my daily paper.

The decor of this Hoang Long was surprisingly similar to Thanh Thanh, actually, minus the fish tank. Clean, with natural light, the furnishing were still fairly new. I liked the sleek black tables with hinged extensions, perfect as a work or, in my case, a reading surface.

I knew from experience not to have the Pad Thai again, so went straight for their Northern Vietnam Noodle Soup with rare beef ($7.95). It was a rainy trek from my office, and next to chicken noodle soup, I find that nothing warms from the inside as well as a hot bowl of beef broth.

Ten minutes later, my order was brought to me with a side of bean sprouts, mint, and various sauces. Though cilantro wasn’t present, I was so aghast at the sheer size of the bowl that I hardly noticed. Between the silky-slick rice noodles, savoury, chewy slices of beef, and rich, from-scratch broth, I left Hoang Long feeling full, warmed-through, and thoroughly satisfied.

With expedient, no-nonsense service and good food, Hoang Long may become a go-to restaurant for me in the future.

Menu

Northern Vietnam Noodle Soup with rare beef