Category: restaurant reviews

Dinner & a Movie: 4th and Vine

Following Superskills last night, my friend and I went to 4th and Vine (11358-104 Avenue) for supper. I read about the restaurant in Vue Weekly a few months ago, and was particularly drawn to their weekly “dinner & a movie” event. That Sunday, both An Inconvenient Truth and Who Killed the Electric Car? were featured, but we elected to sit for the second movie, as we had already watched the first.

The lengthy, rectangular-shaped dining room was an interesting design, one not often seen in Edmonton. Instead, it reminded me of space conscious restaurants in Toronto. The high-back, black leather chairs and dark mahogany tables, accentuated by the glow from nearby lamps, oozed an air of sophistication not unlike that from a pristine, upscale furniture showroom. Furthermore, it seemed as if these events had been offered long enough to warrant the purchase of a ceiling-mounted projector and pull-down screen located at the far end of the room.

As anticipated, 4th and Vine had an extensive wine and spirits list, complete with suggested entree wine pairings. Unfortunately, I wasn’t in the imbibing mood, but my friend did have a Stella. Their food menu, on the other hand, was sparse in comparison. However, it seems the focus on few dishes was to their advantage.

I ordered the chicken breast (pan-flashed chicken breast basted in their signature garlic hazelnut butter, served with daily starch and seasonal vegetables), while my friend decided on the penne jambalaya (spicy Italian sausage, chicken breast, and prawns sauteed with bell peppers and red onion in a zesty sun-dried tomato sauce). Though the serving was not as generous as I had hoped, it more than made up for size with flavor. The signature butter was superb, with the hazlenuts providing great texture and crunch, and complemented the tender, juicy chicken well. I also have a weak spot for grilled vegetables, so I was happy to see them on my plate. My friend commented that his pasta was “hotter than Gore’s anger over global warming, but not hotter than Gore’s anger over losing to Bush.”

We split a chocolate mousse for dessert (hurrah for coupons!). Gosh, was the aftertaste ever potent. There was no mention of liqueur used in the mousse, but after several spoonfuls, I had to cry for water. Needless to say, I did not finish dessert that night.

We finished dinner right on time to focus on the Electric Car. Thanking our lucky stars, we had access to the best spot in the house, as the patrons who had originally reserved the COUCH didn’t show. I’m still tickled by the experience of watching a movie in a public restaurant from the comfort of a couch. Moreover, the kitchen even delivered a free bowl of “gourmet” popcorn (air-popped, slightly burnt kernels drizzled with garlic butter) to each table!

With great food and a novel concept, I must say I was quite enamored with 4th and Vine, and will be back in the not too distant future.

Restaurant interior

Penne jambalaya (pictures are blurry because I didn’t want the flash to distract patrons from the movie)

Chicken breast

Movie screen

Couch!

Cooly Authentic: El Rancho Spanish Restaurant

A few friends and I had supper at El Rancho Spanish Restaurant (11810-87 Street) on Saturday night to celebrate one friend’s professional milestone.

Both the covert location (tucked away in a northside neighborhood) and the authenticity of the food can lead one to label El Rancho with the coveted “gem” status. With salmon-colored walls, a small dining room, and cozy burnished tables, the thought of being in grandma’s kitchen was not far away. Upbeat Spanish-language music played in the background, functioning well as festive background noise (at least until they switched to Shakira. Blech).

The menu prices were very reasonable, and encourage the sampling and sharing of dishes. Still, I think my entree, the Enchilada Mexicana (corn tortilla filled with chicken garnished with tomato sauce), served with both rice and salad proved to be the largest dish out of all we ordered and hence the best deal. Also, on my next trip, I should make a note to ask about the dressing – probably olive-oil based, it had a nutty flavor unlike anything else I’ve ever had. My only nitpick – I wanted the dish to be served warmer, if not only to combat the cold air streaming in from the poorly insulated walls and window!

Hands down, best part of our meal that night was the dessert! We split a Tres Leches (three milks cake) and the Pan del Dia (pastry of the day), which happened to be Choco Flan (isn’t that fun to say?!). The Tres Leches, soaked in milk, evaporated milk and condensed milk, was my favorite. Not as sweet as the waitress had warned, the cake was moist and light, the perfect partner to the round of Abuelita Hot Chocolate we had ordered as well. It was probably the cold talking, but the cocoa-based concoction was delicious!

El Rancho will be having a “Latino Christmas” celebration on December 1, with a set dinner for $25 per person. Whether you head to the restaurant on that occasion or on another day, it is definitely worth a try!

El Rancho Spanish Restaurant

Dining room

Flautas Mexicanas (three rolled golden fried tortillas stuffed with chicken, carrots and onions, topped with shredded lettuce, sour cream, and El Rancho sauce)

Burrito al Carbon (a flour tortilla stuffed with grilled beef with fried beans, salsa, guacamole, sour cream, garnished with salad)

Enchilada Mexicana

Tres Leches and Choco Flan

Abuelita Hot Chocolate

Fresh Start Bakery

I decided to check out Fresh Start Bakery (484 Riverbend Square) with my parents while we were in the area this afternoon. I had originally read about the cafe in Vue Weekly, and noticing the apparent hunger in Edmonton for upscale breads and treats (Fresh Start joins Cobbs Bread and the more established Bon Ton and Bee Bell Bakeries), it seemed time to try the city’s latest.

Catering to the wealthy and idle, the cafe was clean and spacious, with stone accents and marble counters to boot. Atop the hearth sat a flat-panel television screen, listing the country songs being played on the digital radio station. The bakery counter was located to the left of the entrance, displaying fresh loaves and desserts too saccharine for a late lunch. My dieter’s sensibility drove me instead to the bistro showcase.

Given the location of this cafe, expensive dishes were to be expected. The bistro side offered some freshly-prepared goods, including paninis, rice bowls, and pizza, but also some heat-from-the-cooler standard coffee shop fare, such as quiche and shepherd’s pie. I opted for the latter, while my Mum ordered a large bowl of beef and vegetable soup.

The pie was nicely plated, but sadly, I couldn’t tell if it had been microwaved or oven-heated (usually indicative of the former). Still, the beef was well-seasoned, with a reasonable quantity of vegetables, and the cookie-pressed mashed potato florets created a distinctive presentation. My Mum’s soup was disappointing in size ($5.99 for the bowl), but she did appreciate the low sodium flavored broth and generous portion of beef included.

Before heading home, we opted to take home some baked goods. I chose a Montreal-style cheese bagel, and after a frustrating “Who’s on first?” type exchange with the clerk (“No, we want the goosen, NOT the cinnamon bun!”), my mum ended up with a cinnamon bun (don’t ask). I found the bagel to be worth a return trip – crunchy with a sumptuous cheesy essence. My Dad commented that the cinnamon bun was good, but inferior to Mum’s own.

Fresh Start can be considered an alternative to the run of the mill coffee chain, and if I happen to be in Riverbend in the future, I wouldn’t overlook dropping by for a cup of coffee. But I’d be sure to load up on a heartier meal elsewhere first.

Fresh Start Bakery (I neglected to bring my camera, so I was forced to take an image from the website).

High Level Diner

A friend and I had supper at High Level Diner (10912-88 Avenue) last night. I had previously sampled their daytime fare, but this was my first dinner visit.

The Diner is located near the University of Alberta campus, just off the busy 109 thoroughfare, so parking can be an issue. Luckily, as we pulled in, there were a few curbside spaces free. We expected a thin crowd, as the temperature was easily twenty below. To our surprise, the restaurant was nearly full.

The dining room was dimly lit, furnished with aged wooden tables and chairs. Paintings by local artists adorned the walls, available for customer perusal and purchase. It was evident that there was a lot of care behind the restaurant as many personal touches were observed, such as the vase of real flowers in the bathroom. Overall, the decor evoked a warm and inviting atmosphere.

The evening menu boasted ethnic-inspired diner favorites, seemingly more creative and unique than the comparable Blue Plate Diner. I would name sample dishes, but as my memory is shoddy, and there is no website to refer to, I will abandon specifics in this case. I opted for the Ural Burger (lean ground beef patty, lettuce, tomatoes, cheddar and sprouts on a whole wheat bun) with fries while my friend ordered the daily special (which for that night was pan-fried shrimp, spinach, and mushrooms tossed with fettuccine in a cream sauce).

Our food arrived in no time, although we were in no rush, enjoying the air that buzzed with tones of hushed conversation. My friend said the pasta was disappointing – not bad, but uninspired, and easily surpassed by our favorite pasta hangout, Olive Garden. The burger was generously sized, but a tad too greasy for my taste, and I found the sprouts actually overpowered all other toppings. The fries were homemade from whole potatoes, so naturally, they had less shape and crunch than those made and processed from potato flour. Still, the thinner slices tasted best, crispy and reminiscent of fried potato skins.

With exceptionally friendly servers, comfort food and ambiance typically found only in intimate coffee shops, High Level Diner is a great place to have dinner and catch up with friends.

Table with a view – “Untitled” painting and twinkle lights
Daily special pasta dish
Ural Burger
Table with a view deux – we let the car warm up as long as we could!

Urban Diner

Just returned from brunch with a few of my girlfriends in celebration of a birthday. We went to Urban Diner (12427 102 Avenue), located in the upscale High Street district. I have been there for dinner on several occasions, but this was my first taste of their breakfast menu.

We went in without reservations, so we had to wait about twenty minutes for a table. Although the time went by fairly quickly, I would advise calling ahead to book a table, as there isn’t really a proper waiting area set up in the restaurant.

I love the feel of the place – the staff are friendly, the dining room is clean and bright, and the food is comfort-oriented. Above the cash counter hangs a chalkboard advertising their daily specials, ‘shakes, and wine; I think it’s a nice touch.

Besides coffee (a must!), I ordered the frittata (with sausage, bacon, spinach, portabella, peppers, tomatoes, leeks, swiss & mozza, served with Diner potatoes and toast). My friends chose the smoked salmon bennie (with basil pesto, roasted bell pepper, spinach, cheddar & cream, served with grilled French bread and Diner potatoes).

Given that the restaurant seemed especially busy, the food was quite prompt. I’m a sucker for novelties: the frittata arrived in its own mini cast iron pan! I’m not sure how many eggs they used, but I can say I was rather stuffed at the end of it. Still, I wouldn’t really call the dish a ‘frittata’ per se; it is more aptly termed ‘scrambled eggs and then some.’ I am also happy to report that thankfully, I did not taste the leek!

Urban Diner never disappoints; I highly recommend it for brunch or dinner!

The quaint view from the window

Smoked salmon bennie

Frittata

Doan’s Restaurant

Vietnamese pho has long been a favorite of mine, with southside’s Pagolac (9642 54 Avenue) claiming my vote for pho supremacy in Edmonton. However, I decided to put that title to the test when I visited Doan’s Restaurant (10130 107 Street) with a friend on Friday night.
Doan’s has consistently won See Magazine‘s annual readers poll for “Best Vietnamese.” And though I once sampled their pho in a take-out order, this was my first dine-in experience to date.

The decor is a classic case of Asian misinterpretation of Western flair. Although the pink walls, solid wooden tables and seat covers are nice enough, the palm trees (yes, I said palm trees) and Oriental art accents create an apperance of trying too hard. To underscore this point, the water was served in wine glasses.

To eat at an Asian restaurant without tea is a foreign idea to me, so we ordered a pot of green tea ($2). We were surprised to find they used a tea bag instead of loose leaves or steeped tea. Pagolac, on the other hand, offers a brewed variety, and doesn’t charge for their tea.

We decided to start with a half plate of cha gio (spring rolls) while for the main course, my friend settled on Pho Dac Biet (special beef noodle soup with brisket, medium rare beef, well done beef, and beef balls) and I ordered my usual Pho Tai (medium rare beef noodle soup).

The food arrived promptly. The sping rolls were crispy and not greasy, but my friend noted that they were smaller than their Pagolac counterparts. As for the pho – it was simply delicious. The broth was rich and flavorful, with enough cilantro garnish to keep me happy. They were also extremely generous with the portions – the bowl contained noticeably more noodles and beef than Pagolac’s version. So for approximately $1 more, Doan’s offers the better value.

Though I enjoy Pagolac’s laid back atmosphere and free tea refills, the quality of the food at Doan’s gives Pagolac a run for their money. I’ll definitely be back for another round.

Palm trees!

Pho Dac Biet

Pho Tai

Ricky’s All Day Grill

Two friends and I visited the Ricky’s All Day Grill in Edmonton City Centre Mall (10200 102 Avenue) before heading out to see a play on Saturday night. With four locations in the city and another on the way, it’s surprising that none of us had eaten there before.

The restaurant is brightly lit, with funky multicolored light fixtures on the ceiling and 50’s-inspired art on the walls (perhaps harking back to the safety, security, and family values of times past?). The menu features breakfast items (pancakes, waffles, and omlettes, ohmy!) served daily until 4pm. As someone who has a penchant to sleep in, I can say that I will be back one afternoon for brunch.

I ordered the vegetarian teriyaki bowl (stir-fried veggies with teriyaki over oriental noodles). City counselors are always encouraging for the growth and development of facilities in the downtown district, and really, for suburbanites to stay or play downtown after hours, the service and selection must be superb so people will overlook parking complications and other difficulties. Know too that although I am a great advocate of the downtown experience, if I am allowed to use this one occasion at Ricky’s as an example of what the core has to offer, I am certain no one will be flocking to the area anytime soon. Not only was the waiter slow at taking our drink and dinner orders, but the kitchen also got my order wrong (they included chicken in my dish).

Sure, the portion was a decent size, and there was a fair balance between the noodles and stir-fry, but our dinner was rushed and thus rather unpleasant because of the poor service.

When I do try Ricky’s again, I will be heading to one of the other locations.

50’s-inspired art

Teriyaki bowl

Homefire Grill

Last night, a friend and I had dinner at Homefire Grill (18210 100 Avenue). I read about the restaurant a few months ago in Vue Weekly, but hadn’t yet had the opportunity to check it out.

The dining room itself is painted in mute autumn tones, which helps to evoke the cozy atmosphere the name suggests. On the other hand, perhaps I’ve been brainwashed by too many Restaurant Makeover viewings, but eateries that attempt to cater to every possible crowd often end up diluting their overall quality. Homefire Grill seems to suffer from such an identity crisis. While the menu lends itself to family-friendly meals, and the Navajo-inspired symbols that adorn the walls, sconces, and drop lamps provide a dash of ‘mom’s kitchen kitch,’ the fireplace centrepiece and room-wide dim lighting create an environment more aligned with adult dining (I find food to be quite the afterthought in these reviews. Who knew I’d be more interested in the aesthetics?).

There were some interesting menu options (the “nice little salad” for one, and the buffalo meatloaf which I will surely return to try), but I settled on the country ham and pineapple pizza while my friend chose the Singapore sling stir-fry.

Although the pizza was somewhat tasty (the hickory smoked bacon flavored the generous topping of cheese quite nicely), the soggy crust prevented it from any elevation above the fare available in most high school cafeterias. The beef in my friend’s stir fry was seasoned and grilled to perfection, but a lack of noodles and the use of frozen vegetables led to a dish that left much to be desired.

We split a creme brulee for dessert (actually quite unusual for me…all of my meals typically begin and end with an entree). Instead of the torched sugar we expected, the brulee was topped with a thick layer of caramelized sugar. It definitely took some effort to break through the coating to reach the disappointingly cool custard beneath. I’m not enough of a creme brulee expert to know what they did wrong, but the dish was disappointing, to say the least.

Reading over this review, I acknowledge that it appears I had a negative experience – and that wasn’t the case. Our waiter was polite and attentive (he even took the time to tell us about Mick McGeough’s blown call), and I would definitely recommend this restaurant to adults who are looking for a quiet, comfortable dinner venue. Next up on my return trip: buffalo meatloaf!

Restaurant interior

Centre fireplace

Country ham and pineapple pizza

Singapore sling stir-fry

Creme brulee

Haweli Restaurant and Steeps

Last night, a few friends and I had supper at Haweli Restaurant (10220-103 Street), located on the Boardwalk in downtown Edmonton. Haweli actually just recently won the Edmonton Appetizer Challenge at the Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival.

Although the furniture looks like it could have been rescued from a repossessed Bonanza, there were some nice decorative touches of organza around the dining area. Though on second thought, Haweli could greatly benefit from a Restaurant Makeover-style interior renovation…

I would be the first person to admit that I haven’t had much in the way of East Indian cuisine before, so much of what was on the menu was new to me. Thus, I was hoping the waitress would be able to provide some guidance, but this wasn’t the case – she was either new, or simply ill-equipped to deal with questions from inquisitive patrons. In the end, we settled on sharing orders of vegetarian samosas, garlic naan, butter chicken, navratan korma (mixed vegetables cooked in a creamy sauce), and chicken biryani (basmati rice cooked with boneless chicken).

Save for the plates of samosas and naan, all other dishes were surprisingly small. However, the food itself was excellent. In particular, the navratan korma was creamy, flavorful, but not overpowered by spices.

Our cheque divided up into roughly $18 per person, so it was definitely a worthwhile sampling of East Indian cuisine. And while I’m not sure I will be back right away, it was a satisfying experience overall.

Interior of Haweli Restaurant

Chicken biryani and navratan korma

Following dinner, we headed to Steeps (12411 Stony Plan Road). I love coffee as much as the next person, but I do drink a fair amount of tea as well. Steeps is noted for their great selection of teas, which you can check out at their handy “tea tree”: a stand with individual canisters of all of the teas they carry, available for your sniffing pleasure.

This was my first time at the “original teahouse,” as it is denoted on the website, and the atmosphere is fantastic. You almost feel like an urbanite just stepping into the place, with its old hardwood flooring, mismatched 70s furniture (reminiscent of pieces sold at The Junque Cellar), and dim lighting. This location actually reminded me a lot of one of my favorite Edmonton haunts, the Blue Plate Diner.

I settled on a small pot of “spring wind jasmine” green tea. I am not enough of a tea aficionado to suss out the subtle hints and tones of the brew, but I can say that it produced a comforting drink to accompany fine conversation.

A great cup of tea!